How to use an on camera flash | Speedlight tutorial

[@raymondchan3587]

Thanks, one of the most useful tips I could find about flash in KZbin.

[@jennyhartman1181]

I really loved how you built the concepts up piece by piece. Thank you.

[@tremaincheerful4189]

So THAT's what that pull-out white card is for! Clear and enlightening insights, presented so well. Thanks! Subscribed immediately.

[@zygotepeyote]

It puts a catchlight in the models eyes if you look at the pic before and the one after he use the pull out.

[@russellbrown2279]

Your video was extremely helpful and the bloopers just relaxed me, thanks.✌🏽😇

[@andrerenaud1759]

Your video was a very positive revelation for me and changed my speed lite use in photography. I will follow you for sure!

[@Arisevideo]

Helpful, wow! Excellent, thorough tutorial, with some surprising secrets too. Thank you.

[@neeyababy2.0]

Omg! I cannot thank you enough for this video. I loved how you were quick and straight to the point. Super effective. Thank you!

[@DanielCebreros7]

I love your explanations. Very informative video. I can definitely use a mentor for photography. In the meantime, I will be using these techniques and making the best of them. Thank you! Subscribed! :)

[@chrisfigley]

Good stuff! I will practice these. Also, thanks for explaining the characteristics of Rembrandt and Paramount lighting.

[@ChuckHaines]

Thanks for this video. This is one of the best I've found that really helped me understand how best to use an on-camera flash. Great jobs of explaining it very clearly and easily to understand.

[@lego_minifig]

Great video! I have always avoided flash for the past 4 years since I hated how direct flash looked more than high ISO and couldn’t justify the cost of picking up an adjustable speedlight for myself until now. This has been a great refresher on the fundamentals that I had forgotten.

[@klyiu2006]

Thank you so much for this excellent video. I got a manual flash but had a difficult time to figure out what settings to make to the flash and their relationship to the settings on the camera. This video really helps a lot with my adventure.

[@blakemorphis1262]

Exactly the lesson I needed. Thank you!

[@laurenmiller8478]

Thank you so much! This video was EXTREMELY helpful!!

[@CygnusVArcana]

Amazing video! So much great info!

[@olatunjisaheed5495]

I love your video. May God continue to increase you in wisdom, knowledge and understanding

[@tomkryzz]

I'm new to the speedlight game and this was very helpful. Thank you very much, Sir!

[@juandeveraturda4392]

Mabuhay! ❤🇵🇭

[@_HMCB_]

Good video. Thank you for the easy pace and explanations.

[@Crackernightfilms]

A great informative lesson thank you.

[@tomdoolin2415]

Absolutely brilliant tutorial

[@PokeProfitParady]

TTL works when bouncing as well. The power output is based on the pre-flash readings. I agree Manual mode is more efficient and give the photographer more control but the early statement about TTL only when using direct was misleading.

[@JeanCFLG]

Very well explained Sir. Good video

[@guyphoto9437]

When using Rembrandt lighting the shadow with the triangle portion of the face should be closest to the camera. Not on the far side of the face. That's essentially "broad" lighting rather than "short" or Rembrandt lighting. In classical photography the mantra is "shoot into the shadows."

[@farhanshah655]

Superb and clearly presentation. Tq

[@lag103]

I knew to photography and this was very helpful, thanks.

[@marclabro]

great tuto but the face is quite dark. do you fix that in post processing ?

[@jasonbodden8816]

Lots of times you can but it’s MUCH better to get the lighting the way you want it - or as close as you possibly can - in the photo shoot. Don’t rely on postproduction to fix your lighting…..unless you’re underexposing on purpose to get a certain look in post processing later.

[@jonswliu6650]

Great Video! Can you also make a tutorial on how to expose with Manual flash? I have a godox tt850ii manual but i have a hard time adjusting my camera setting in tandem with the flash. I just use feeling lol...

[@jasonbodden8816]

Just use your eyes lol. You really just have to take test shots until you like what you see. Don’t overthink it. If the flash is too dark on your subject, raise the power; if it’s too bright, lower the power. There are a couple things you do need to be aware of but they’re not difficult, don’t worry: - When using flash, your pictures have TWO exposures - the ambient light exposure and the flash exposure. Before you even turn on your flash, you get the ambient light exposure how you want it to look first then get the flash exposure on your subject how you want it. When using Manual flash, if the distance from the light to your subject changes, YOU have to adjust the flash power yourself. The flash will not automatically adjust it for you. You got this, bud. Just keep practising 🙂👊🏻

[@austinsolomona]

Thank you this was so helpful ❤

[@keithdennis7419]

This was very informative!!! Thanks!!!

[@tonyattardo738]

Thank you. This is so helpful. Can you tell me how you went from ISO 4000 to 200? Auto ISO? Much appreciated

[@jasonbodden8816]

He changed it himself. Because he was using flash to light her he no longer needed such a high ISO of 4000. Flash is much stronger than continuous/ambient/natural light so he brought his ISO down as the natural light was no longer his main light source.

[@99sixstring]

thx, understandable and implementable! I´m glad you missed out all of the fancy presentation stuff. That was nice an clear! Like!

[@johanp8391]

Excellent video, thank you

[@Diggy07]

Loved that! Thank you 😊

[@UnauthorizedCreations]

When I use my flash the lens I use is a 35mm 1/4 and I keep my ISO between 100-200. A lot of times I will set my exposure to -1.

[@koachkrish]

Thank you so much for this!!!

[@hitzphotography]

Very informative video 👍

[@huynhminhtruc1718]

I have a question: if the GN decreases, should we decrease it with zoom or flash so that the GN remains the same if the zoom is changed?

[@leroysparkz]

The one without the card brings out the tone better. Post editing would solve the shadowing

[@jasonbodden8816]

The tiny card is garbage. You need something larger to bounce a better quality of light back into your subject.

[@leroysparkz]

@@jasonbodden8816 thought as much!

[@JeanGWalter]

Thank you very much for your help 🙏

[@spirkspirk5093]

I wish you would have said what manual flash setting numbers you started with and then were switching to while adjusting for each model. Otherwise, great how to video.

[@samuelsmith6804]

By the way you don’t need a low ceiling to bounce flash. In fact generally a high ceiling or distant walls are better. Light follows the inverse square law. If you double the distance from the flash to your subject, the light intensity falls to one-quarter of its original value. Conversely, if you halve the distance, the light intensity increases by a factor of four. What this means is that the closer your flash is to the subject, small differences in distance have an increasingly huge impact on flash exposure. When they are far away, ie bouncing off a distant wall, the fall off is much lower/ steady. This is crucial in wedding and events photography where you may have more than a single person as a subject. Bouncing off a close ceiling or wall can mean the subject closer to you is exposed differently to the one a little bit further away. However if you bounce off a distant wall or higher ceiling the exposure will be much more even. Not only that the light will be softer and more diffused, all much more pleasing. Flashes are easily powerful enough to cope with large rooms unless you buy a little crappy flash. Also TTL will pre flash to meter before the main flash, it will usually expose perfect for bounce flash, and can be tweaked by flash compensation if necessary.

[@pbmuastudioparveenbains1270]

Love it…❤

[@annetteheth4538]

This is a good start. But, I was hoping to learn how to use settings on the flash.

[@candissdelcastillo7863]

Helpful.👍

[@rociofenoglio188]

Thanks for this!

[@bigTforreal]

Thank you!!

[@josediazh3890]

Muchas gracias.

[@Cora.Naveda.Browne]

Which speed light is this?

[@indrajitadvani3742]

Nice tips thanks.

[@veselinvasilev9362]

Thank you!

[@tigertolliver5199]

😊😊😊😊😊

[@devilalkalal7243]

Sir kitne mitar tak light mar kar sakti he

[@njbestvideo5977]

well done

[@acewelding]

thanks

[@walldoo99]

I was taught that butterfly lighting was when you cast 2 head shadows on the wall, looking like butterfly wings. I saw a moron covering my cousin's wedding on a 35mm Mamiya 500 DTL with a flash on each side. It wasn't till later that I noticed he had them plugged into the wrong sync. He later blamed the lab.

[@jasonbodden8816]

That’s not butterfly lighting at all. Sounds hilarious that someone would actually teach that misinformation, though 😂

[@Getitstraightyo]

This was a good tutorial but IMO all of these photos look underexposed

[@shabath]

Slight underexpose should be easy enough to fix in post.

[@Doomdealerproductions]

Dance magic Dance

[@oo0Spyder0oo]

1/80 shutter and f2.8, no way do you need an iso of 4000.

[@jaym5938]

I find large people wearing white t-shirts ..... ;)

[@Marcelo_Salup]

Actually, all of the pictures look pretty bad. Tons of shadows on her eyes. Just not the kind of picture that makes a model happy Moreover, I don't know why, but a lot of concert photographers think they can "bounce" their flash into black 30 foot ceilings.

[@jasonbodden8816]

All the pictures are pretty underexposed to me. I think about 2/3 of a stop more power would have made them look a lot better. And yes, I don’t know why some photographers think bouncing off really high black ceilings is something worth doing lol.

[@mariobravo8253]

💥💥 WaaaiT ▪︎. Am I the ONLY ONE to think that the initial ▪︎▪︎ No Flash ▪︎▪︎ is Better Than the Flash pix .... I seriously saw the Pix go from acceptable to ugly... and uglier

[@richstrike8418]

Agreed because the soft natural light compliments her better than the hard light

[@jasonbodden8816]

@@richstrike8418 The only hard light was in the very beginning of the video when he was demonstrating direct flash, paparazzi style. All the other shots with bounce flash have very soft light from the ceiling. I will say that he underexposed her too much in all these. He probably needed about 2/3 of a stop more light on all of these shots. And bounce cards that small are usually garbage. Use something at least 3 times the size of that small piece of crap. Those tiny bounce cards aren’t meant to give flattering light towards the subject, they’re just there so your subject’s eyes have some semblance of a catchlight by throwing a little hard light into your subject’s face. But something like a small Flashbender Will give you much nicer quality of light bounced back into the face.

[@vogelber]

It’s just you.

[@wellwhatthen10101]

You need a new job