How To Use Deep Pour™ Water Clear & Murky | Woodland Scenics | Model Scenery

Learn to use the Deep Pour Clear and Murky water products along with the new Water Volume Estimator app on our website.
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[@ModelSceneryExpert]

Thanks for watching! Click the description for products used in the video. Subscribe and click the bell to be notified of future videos. Be sure to follow us on social media for announcements, tips and more Facebook: facebook.com/WoodlandScenics Instagram: instagram.com/woodlandscenics Twitter: twitter.com/WoodlandScenics

[@Wrathchildss]

Hey guys! Just poured! Worked great, I didn’t buy enough so I’ll have to wait to finish, my question is, can I buy the murky water and pour it in with the other? I bought the clear first. It’s really a fantastic product, it looked like water the second it hit the plaster cloth!

[@gerlandkent6377]

[thank, you for you're great helpful video]👍

[@MoosesWorkshop]

Very nice!

[@WAVP371]

That stuff appears to work great I, can hardly wait to try it out...

[@darkmatter6867]

Hi, i just bought the clear one and i'm excited to pouring a pond with it. I've heard that it doesn't have the "toxic odor" other resin products have. But since it's still a resin, would you recommand to wear a respirator mask while working with it? Thank you!

[@ModelSceneryExpert]

Wearing a respirator mask is not required, when mixing, pouring or curing Deep Pour Water. There is a light to Deep Pour that is strongest during the curing process. Most people do not notice it. The scent is strongest if you are using the aluminum foil dome during curing, as the scent builds up under the foil. If you are sensitive to scents, we simply recommend not lifting the aluminum foil until the Deep Pour has cured (24 hours after the initial pour).

[@darkmatter6867]

@@ModelSceneryExpert Many thanks for your answer. I really appreciate it!

[@martydirmyer27]

Will the DPW still cure if I don't use Woodland Scenics acrylic water undercoats, and instead have normal acrylic paint? * while curing does the DPW get hot as well? Would like to do a boat launch/dock diorama with the boat trailer half submerged into the water, not sure if the resin would harm the plastic

[@ModelSceneryExpert]

You can use another acrylic paint (make sure it is a good quality 100% acrylic), but we recommend using our undercoats since this product is specifically designed to work with the Deep Pour Water. Since we do not know what material the boat trailer is made of, we cannot know whether or not it is compatible with Deep Pour Water. Test it before attempting on a permanent water feature. Do not exceed a ½” in a single pour as the temperature may rise significantly enough to distort or melt your figure. When submerging, wait 3-4 hours after the pour and gently touch a toothpick to the surface of the Deep Pour Water in an inconspicuous area and pull it away. If a string of Deep Pour Water comes off of the surface (instead of a drop), then the Deep Pour Water has reached the sticky state where you can insert the figure.

[@Stringbean421]

What's the difference between using this product and WS Realistic Water? Thanks.

[@ModelSceneryExpert]

There are a couple main differences. First, Deep Pour is for deeper pours, as the name suggests. Realistic Water can only be poured in 1/8" increments. Second, Realistic Water never dries to a 100% hard surface, while Deep Pour does. Indents will be left if something is placed on the surface of Realistic Water. Realistic Water is meant to stay flexible and pliable to discourage cracking. Third, Deep Pour Water does not shrink upon drying, but Realistic Water does shrink a bit. Truly, it all comes down to preference. Many modelers use Realistic Water because their water features are not as deep and do not have a lot of action or movement happening around them to leave impressions on the surface. Or they don't care if that is a result. You can pool denatured alcohol in the indentation and let it dry naturally. It may take a few applications for the indentation to self-level. Many modelers also use Deep Pour. Depends on your needs and wants.

[@GatorDave]

Hello Woodland Scenics Crew, I’m a big fan of your products and have been looking forward to trying out deep pour water, I just had a few questions I was hoping you could help me with. 1. How deep can you pour deep pour water? For what I’m doing I will need anywhere between 2-4 inches deep, is that possible? If so, how long would that take to cure? 2. I was curious about creating a raised water feature with a clear cut off end using a removable dam. Is there any way to depict water movement under the surface of the water? Perhaps using water waves product to create swirls and turns then pouring deep pour water over that once it cures? I appreciate any insight you can offer, you guys do a fabulous job. Keep up the great work! Respectfully, Dave

[@ModelSceneryExpert]

Hi, Dave! QUESTION 1: Deep Pour Water can be poured in increments up to 1/2 inch. Pour one layer, then wait 4-6 hours before pouring another layer. It would take about 24 hours to reach 2 inches, and 48 hours to reach 4 inches. QUESTION 2A: To create a removable dam, use a smooth, firm sheet of plastic or styrene. Cut the material to fit the opening of your water feature and tack it to the water base at the top corners with Low Temp Hot Glue or double-sided sticky tape. Seal all gaps between the dam and terrain with Low Temp Hot Glue, Water Waves, Water Effects or Foam Tack Glue and let it dry completely to make sure the Deep Pour Water doesn't leak. Then apply your Deep Pour Water. Once it's cured completely, gently peel the dam from your water feature. Scrape off any remaining residue or tape with a hobby knife. QUESTION 2B: You can pour Deep Pour Water over Water Waves to create swirls. If you tinted your Deep Pour Water, recommend adding a different Water Tint to the waves to make the swirls stand out beneath the Deep Pour. You could also use White Water Highlight -- just add it to the Water Waves the same way you would add a Water Tint. I hope this helps!

[@chinkiechong]

Hi, I wonder if Deep Pour Water is different from clear resin? I was told to not use resin as it may eat up the foam of my diorama.

[@ModelSceneryExpert]

The Deep Pour Water will not eat up any of the foam, but may seep through the foam. You will need to seal the foam with 100% acrylic paint or with one of our Woodland Scenics Plaster products to prevent the water from seeping into the foam.

[@petermillard5949]

Hi ~ I am modelling a UK canal with two canal narrow boats and a selection of model water plants at the edge of the canal banks. Should I place them on the water course first and then pour the Murky Water on, or should I pour first, then place the canal barges and plants after I've poured? THANK YOU

[@ModelSceneryExpert]

Your idea sounds fun! If you are a beginning modeler and have not used Deep Pour before, we recommend that you create a small test sample using the techniques we describe below. This test sample will help you familiarize yourself with Deep Pour Water and will ensure that you have great results when you apply them to your permanent project. For the canal boats: • We recommend pouring your Deep Pour Water in two layers. Pour your first layer and wait until it reaches the sticky state, approximately 4 hours after pouring. See page 7 and 8 of the instructions booklet for information on how to determine if it has reached the sticky state. • Once it has reached the sticky state, press the boats into the Deep Pour Water. This will hold the boats in place. o If you miss the sticky state, you can use a little glue and glue the boat to the first pour (allow the glue to dry completely before moving to the next step). • Once the boat is in the canal, pour a thin layer of Deep Pour into the canal. Pour it deep enough so it appears that the boat is slightly submerged and floating. For the water plants: How you install the water plants will depend on what they are made of. Are they plastic or paper? • If they are plastic, you can place them in the water cavity before pouring Deep Pour. • If they are paper, the Deep Pour Water will likely absorb into them. For this reason, we recommend placing the plants in the Deep Pour once it reaches the sticky state (see above). This will prevent the absorption and ensure the colors are not affected. NOTE: If you intend to use Surface Waters in your canal to simulate ripples or waves, the boat and the water plants must be sealed with Deep Pour Water before Surface Water is applied to them. Surface Waters are not intended for use with painted surfaces.

[@petermillard5949]

@@ModelSceneryExpert Your suggestions have been very helpful and I went ahead with a view to using the Murky Water kit. Unfortunately I had an issue that you may be able to suggest a solution for. I followed all the instructions in strict order and everything was going just fine. As I picked up the cup to pour the water into the canal feature, the liquid started fizzing and expanding in the plastic cup. The liquid was VERY HOT and then just went solid in the cup! Not sure what I did wrong?

[@ModelSceneryExpert]

When prepared and poured properly, Deep Pour Water will not fiz, expand, or harden in the cup. Can you tell us, step-by-step, how you prepared and mixed the Deep Pour Water? Did you use any products that were not ours in the process? This will help us identify what went wrong.

[@petermillard5949]

​@@ModelSceneryExpert Because I found the instruction booklet quite fiddly and rather wordy, I printed out more concise instructions for myself as follows:

[@petermillard5949]

Get a piece of card and also create a dome of aluminium foil ready to start. (1) Pour hot water into a container. (2) Put both bottles into the plastic bag, getting as much air as possible out of bag. Place bag in hot water for 10 minutes. (3) After 10 minutes take bottles out of hot water and tilt bottles back and forth for 5 seconds. DO NOT SHAKE. (4) Put 120 ml MURKY BASE into the cup. (Fill 30 ml less at first and wait for it to settle). (5) Top up with activator to 180 ml. on cup. (Fill 30 ml less and wait for it to settle). (6) Close the two bottles right away. (7) Gently stir the two liquids together for 1 minute. (8) Shake the water tint bottle and then add 30 x drops of tint to the liquid, still stirring at the same time. (9) Stir the liquids together gently for 5 minutes. Scrape the sides and bottom of the mixing cup several times. (10) After the 5 minutes stirring, cover the cup with a piece of card and let it stand for 5 minutes. (11) After 5 minutes standing, uncover and stir for another 5 minutes. (12) Pour liquid onto layout. I have not added any other materials to the process and followed the above instructions exactly. I hope this helps you decide what may have caused this issue. If you wish me to converse with you on a different email, can you provide me with details.

[@geocraftsman]

I want to have a landscaped bottom for a river I am making. To secure them to the bottom, can I use regular scenic glue as opposed to scenic cement? PVA will cause the water to cloud up, as I have heard.

[@ModelSceneryExpert]

Yes, you are correct that you should not use PVA with any of our water products. Use Scenic Glue to attach any objects to the bottom of your layout before pouring any water products. It is also important to make sure the items have been sealed with Scenic Cement before pouring your water.

[@geocraftsman]

​@@ModelSceneryExpert Thanks for the response. But just to be clear, are you saying that the scenic glue holds down the rocks, where as the scenic cement acts as a layer between the glue and the water to keep the two from reacting? Or is the scenic cement there to secure to the rocks so none of them float up through the water while it is drying?

[@ModelSceneryExpert]

Both glues are adhesives. We recommend Scenic Glue to attach the items to your base, and then spray with Scenic Cement to help secure items and seal the objects before the water product is poured.

[@geocraftsman]

@@ModelSceneryExpert Okay, thank you.

[@gardendepot1]

Question... Can you use "Flex Paste" for the base to stop leaks and then put the Base Color on the Flex Paste and then pour the Deep Pour on top of that? Because I seen a video about using "Flex Paste" as a bottom to stop leaks...

[@ModelSceneryExpert]

Yes, you can use Flex Paste to seal your base and then pour Deep Pour Water™ on top. Make sure your layer of Flex Paste is not very thick, and let the Flex Paste Dry for at least 24 hours.

[@spagelsmegal]

Woodland Scenics so I have different plaster with my lake and I want to put this on there should I

[@ModelSceneryExpert]

What kind of plaster are you using? Are there any holes or cracks?

[@spagelsmegal]

Woodland Scenics I'm unsure it's just a bag of plaster and it's smooth

[@ModelSceneryExpert]

We thoroughly test our products for their intended use, but do not test products other than our own. Since we have not tested using Deep Pour with another plaster other than Woodland Scenics Plaster, we cannot offer an opinion as to how the Deep Pour will perform.

[@blameusa7082]

Hello. Can I use deep pour to fill the bulk of a lake, and top it off with realistic water? need to know fast, many thanks

[@ModelSceneryExpert]

You can use both Realistic Water and Deep Pour Water in the same water feature once the first water product has cured completely.

[@Ulle2020]

Hey, I did the correct mixing but when I started stirring the resin for the second time it became super hot and it dried instantly in the cup before i could start pouring. Why did this happen?

[@ModelSceneryExpert]

If you contact our Customer Service Department directly, they would be happy to help you. They'll need to ask you some additional questions before they can determine what happened and how to prevent it. You can contact them by calling 573-346-5555 or sending an e-mail via the Contact Us form on our website: woodlandscenics.woodlandscenics.com/show/information/ContactUs

[@TheTeachergurrl]

I'm curious--would the clear product work as a finishing coat (similar to resin) on an acrylic art painting? Is this product essentially like resin?

[@ModelSceneryExpert]

Greetings! Deep Pour Water is a two-part resin. We thoroughly test our products for their intended use, but do not test products other than our own. Since we have not tested using Deep Pour Water in this manner, we cannot offer an opinion as to how it will perform.

[@TraceyHroxursox]

Hi =] I have been using Realistic water for a long time, but because I am working with a bit bigger of an area that I plan to display a lightweight piece on, I wish I had used the Deep Pour instead. For what I am doing, Murky Deep Pour water would look best. I grabbed the Murky today, but I have a couple questions before I use it. * I see it's ok to add a layer of Deep Pour over a completely dry area with Realistic Water? I wasn't thinking though when I grabbed the Murky instead of the clear. Just wondering if you have any input on how a top layer of Deep Pour 'Murky' will look over a clear pour of Realistic Water? (I painted the water area blue-green and I didn't add any terrain in the water area on this particular project so concerned the blue-green shades will clash with the Murky Water tint. * Second, I see the entire contents of the bottles are used in the video. I just need a little bit for a top layer. do I have to use the whole bottle once heated up and activated or can I just use what I need and save the rest to warm up for my next project? Thanks for any help!

[@ModelSceneryExpert]

Yes, you can pour Deep Pour Water over the cured Realistic Water. If you want to start over, you can paint the cured Realistic Water with a Water Undercoat or an 100% acrylic paint, landscape over the painted area, then pour Deep Pour Water over top. Just make sure the paint you use and any glue has dried completely before pouring Deep Pour Water. It is hard to say if the colors you used will work with Deep Pour Murky. Deep Pour Murky is semi-transparent especially in thin pours. Deeper pours will appear more opaque. If you don’t want to completely start over (as noted above), we recommend that you make a small test board and prepare the test water feature just like you did with the original. Then, mix and pour a small amount of Deep Pour Murky on top to see how the color would appear. This would be the safest way to know how the colors would look together. You do not have to use the whole Deep Pour Murky kit, after warming the bottles you can measure what you need and reseal the bottles for future use. The amount poured and mixed together will react immediately and cannot be stored for use, so be aware of that. We include a lot of great information on how to use Deep Pour in the instructions, including detailed tips and techniques that may give you new ideas for your layout. Here is a link to a digital copy of the instructions: woodlandscenics.woodlandscenics.com/instructions/CW4511inst.pdf

[@TraceyHroxursox]

@@ModelSceneryExpert Thanks so much I appreciate the advice.

[@TraceyHroxursox]

Hi. =] I love this product and have used it quite often. This time however, I have a problem I hope you can help with pretty please? It can be a challenge having a German Shepherd and crafting terrain. ^.^ I guess it didn't matter he can't come in my workroom and I change clothes before going in there to avoid dog hair in my work. Somehow a random dog hair dried on the very top of my ... pond. It must have happened close to the end of drying because it's laying right on top but still stuck in the top of the Deep Pour water. Am I out of luck or is there anything I can do to fix it? This pond took the entire bottle of murky, but I still have a little bit of murky as well as a little bit of clear left over from other jobs. Hoping I can use them somehow to help fix instead of buying a whole kit. Thanks for any help.

[@ModelSceneryExpert]

Hello! Thank you for your interest in our products. To remove the dog hair, sand the Deep Pour in the area where the dog hair is located until the hair is able to be removed. Then wipe off the sanding debris using rubbing alcohol and let the water feature dry. Finally, pour a new, thin layer of Deep Pour in the area where the sanding took place. The Deep Pour will fill in and repair the sanding scratches, making the Deep Pour look proper once it has cleared.

[@TraceyHroxursox]

@ModelSceneryExpert Thank you! I have been a wreck because I have already posted my display for sale. I couldn't imagine sending it out the door with debris. Again, thank you!

[@brucearbo3273]

I'm also using the deep pour products on a module that is open at two ends and need to create two 'dams'...as you've already stated, in the video, for one of the examples, you've used a clear acrylic dam that seems to be a permanent part of the sample...I need to avoid that in my T-TRAK module...what is suggested for a temporary dam?...I can't find an answer to that in any of the instructional videos, nor in any online forums... Respectfully, Bruce Arbo

[@ModelSceneryExpert]

Greetings! Use polyethylene sheet to make a temporary dam to hold the deep pour in place; the Deep Pour Water shouldn’t stick to that. It's very important to let it cure at least 24-36 hours before removing the polyethylene sheet.

[@jleona15]

What’s the point of warming it before using it?

[@ModelSceneryExpert]

Water Base and Activator are temperature and humidity-sensitive. Therefore, the Water Base and Activator should always be warmed prior to mixing and pouring. This helps ensure the best results.

[@TrainMaster24]

What did you use to seal the ends of the rapid diorama? I am building a harbor layout and the later ends at the layout's edge.

[@ModelSceneryExpert]

In this video, we used a strip of clear polyethylene attached with Scenic Glue. Just make sure that the Scenic Glue is completely dry before pouring your Deep Pour Water or Realistic Water.

[@chrisgraunke9269]

This is a long shot, but I used the deep pour resin in a diorama, and I made the mistake of using painters tape to dam the areas off.. this created warping in the resin, which I can accept; however, the tape caused the resin to have a foggy look to it along the perimeter of the areas where it was dammed. I'm hoping someone here might be able to help with ideas on how to clear it up, or am I SOL, and either stuck with what I have, or start over. 😕😕 Thank you in advance.

[@ModelSceneryExpert]

Most likely the painters tape left a texture in the Deep Pour which is creating the foggy look. This texture can be removed by sanding the surface with 120-grit sandpaper. Clean all sanding debris from the surface using a little rubbing alcohol. Let dry. Mix a small amount of Deep Pour Water and brush a thin layer of over the sanded resin with a paintbrush ( NOTE: you may need to discard the paintbrush or try to clean it with acetone.) The newly brushed on Deep Pour will fill in the scratch marks and dry clear again. If the texture is not too deep, you may be able to use this technique minus the sanding. If you try this and it doesn’t work, you can always try sanding it and reapplying the Deep Pour again.

[@chrisgraunke9269]

@@ModelSceneryExpert awesome, so the deep pour can be polished! That's great news, thank you so much for the reply! I will definitely look into trying this, staying with the sanding. I would hate to have to go through all of that and ruin my display. Thank you so much for your help!

[@chrisgraunke9269]

@@ModelSceneryExpert oh, one more question, please. Could the same process be done using the realistic water, or does it have to be the 2 part water system? Thank you! 🙏

[@Jake-dc3dd]

How do you get a landscape model like the one on 5:22?

[@ModelSceneryExpert]

This diorama was built for the purpose of this video. We do not have a tutorial for building that exact model.

[@agon0244]

Umm...you build it using the everything you saw. They sell all of it.

[@DimitrisN79]

At 2:00', the water should be hot, cold or 50%-50%?

[@ModelSceneryExpert]

Hi, James! When you're warming Deep Pour Water, place the sealed bag of Water Base and Activator in a gallon jug or another suitable container and fill the container with hot tap water (approximately 120°F, or 48.8°C). Do not use scalding hot or boiling water. If it’s too hot to touch, it’s too hot to use.

[@DimitrisN79]

Thanks!

[@meismagiic4779]

can you do this in layers with no problem?

[@ModelSceneryExpert]

Yes Deep Pour can be layered. Each pour should be poured in 1/2 inch increments or less. Allow each pour to cure at least 4 hours before your next pour.

[@epiksgaming4801]

Would I use murky or clear for a harbor?

[@ModelSceneryExpert]

The choice is entirely up to you depending on the look you want to achieve. If you want a murky look, then Deep Pour Water Murky is the best choice. If you want your water to be blue, green, or just want to tint the water yourself, then you should use Deep Pour Water Clear.

[@thedbcooperforum]

Seems dangerous using foil giving a chance to drop into the water.

[@avyzz]

1st!!!