How to Waterproof a Basement | Ron Hazelton's House Calls feat. Basement Systems

[@goaheadmakeourdayscooterpe6724]

All the projects I watched this man do over the years and he saved one of the most important for almost last,next week he's fixing his roof that's been leaking since he bought the place.

[@showmitrabarua2555]

The better damp proofing solutions for basement floor . Thank you so much. Wish you all the best.

[@balalalala13]

Than you! How is your system system holding up after 9 years?

[@garypitts5570]

I have a old system,on the same principal,done 52 years ago,I have only replaced 3 pumps in 52 years,it works.

[@u.s.paratroops4633]

In some locations like Minnesota (or adjacent to a lake) the water table is so high, that no gutters, or weeping tile will prevent a wet basement. I had a problem w/ my home in NC, and got several estimates. I actually initially tried a weeping tile, but pulled it out. The last estimate was the best.....grading or reversing the slope. Only 1 time did water come in, and a valley in the gutters had clogged it so bad it was coming off in a continuous stream. Even w/ screens on the gutters one has to keep them clean and free of debris !!! Finally !!

[@UToobin75]

I really don't think that many of these commentors grasp the concept of a high water table. They must all live in warmer, dryer climates. All the exterior waterproofing in the world isn't going to help if water is pushing up from underneath. I reside in the upper Midwest and my whole neighborhood was built on a high water table (unfortunately). Many of these homes are resting on a bed of poorly drained soils, with basements which will become a shallow pool at any given time of the year without drainage systems and sump pumps. Most pumps around here were activating even throughout the dead of winter this year.

[@patty109109]

@@UToobin75my water table is exceptionally high-never ever below my foundation footings. I have a very dry basement because they ran exterior delta membrane against the walls, then drains around footing and it goes to a sump pump. At the worst time of the year my pump moves about 1000 gallons a day. Even in the driest part of summer it runs (though less). I also have a water alarm if the pump fails, and a gravity drain I can use alternatively (in which case pump need not run).

[@jewllake]

I really enjoyed Ron in the early 90's when he was on channel 7 Sunday mornings as the house doctor in our Bay Area community.

[@JoeyCox1980]

I have the BasementSystems water proofing system internal drainage and my basement has been amazing dry for 10 years now. I have my own videos that show the installation. Just having the drains isn't enough. I also use their non-permeable wall covers to seal out moisture from walls or that would leak down from windows. It then goes into the drains. Solved so many issues. Just last week, I installed my own egress window and what a mistake that was. I did not put a drain into the window well because I figured it would drain enough during storms, which it did. But then it downed poured an incredible amount something like 7 inches in an hour and filled the window well and it leaked into the basement. Now I'm having them install their egress window well drain system to eliminate that issue.

[@joeshmoe7789]

The very last line of defense for water coming into a basement is a french drain and sump pump. You don't want to let water into your house so you can pump it out. Keep it outside if at all possible. The first thing to check for basement water is roof water and where it discharges. Keeping gutters clean and drain paths clear is part of this. Just as important is the pitch of the property. Is water running towards the house across a patio or driveway? Are the grounds sloped toward the house? Where does the neighbor's water go? Was any attempt made to channel the water away from outside the steps assembly or did the contractor just concede "all basement steps leak"? The above solves over 90% of basement water problems. After that, I'd re-access and if there's still a problem, just a simple well & sump pump in the lowest corner could work as a last line of defense. I would not use those white panels anywhere except possibly behind the electrical. Do they breath? Great to promote mold. The flaking on the wall will stop when outdoor water is channeled or run away from the house. Instead of paying someone to maintain your sump pump system every year, I'd pay to have my gutters, down spouts and drainage cleaned regularly. I need to know a little more, but it's a good bet this guy got ripped off.

[@mikebevan1034]

Why do you believe he got ripped off?

[@joeshmoe7789]

@@mikebevan1034 Everything I wrote above. He should've spoken to others. Does this company do outdoor drainage? He was sold the most expensive but still has water coming thru his walls and into his house. The first pic at the beginning tells it all.

[@Thrashest51]

​@@mikebevan1034 I've been researching and reading all over the internet and he kinda did get ripped off. Sold him the most expensive "fix" that probably won't actually solve the problem. Just look at the end where the water drops out at, the waters just gonna pool there. Yeah looks like he ran 20ft of piping but the water still only lands like 2ft from the foundation. Also when they installed the corners for the drainage system notice they had no bottoms. The waters gonna hit the corners and have to build up to a certain level to ever even flow down the channels. Watch it again, dude installing it is a grade A sells man. 🤦‍♂️ "yearly maintenance" keep that money a flowing.

[@patty109109]

I can tell you don’t live in my town. Installation of a sump pump is standard in all homes, both old and new, unless it’s possible to install a gravity drain. Grading is important but when your water table is 2-3’ during some periods of the year those efforts won’t amount to much. I’ve superb grading, and I live on a hill, yet my sump runs multiple times an hour. It’s just the nature of my property.

[@joeshmoe7789]

@@patty109109Your property is on a hill, but your water table is 2-3'. 2-3' under ground level? I can't imagine what it's like for your downhill neighbors. My comment was on the above video. They are all precautions and adjustments people should consider before having messy, expensive work done inside their house. Can an external french drain work in your neighborhood?

[@truth4you349]

When I first moved into my house 6 years ago, my new neighbors said, "Oh, you're the person who bought the house where the basement always floods." I was so afraid. Thank goodness that the sellers installed a basement anti-flooding system. I've never had a problem with flooding in my basement since I've been in my house!!!!

[@SM-rz9du]

No, I don't think to keep the water behind the plastic panel is a good idea. You are going to have a lot molds in your basement....

[@patty109109]

Have you discovered a new kind of mold that feeds on concrete or plastic? Mold doesn’t form without a food source.

[@dustbat]

@@patty109109Kind of agree with other guy. I see mold on everything at one time or another. Moisture is a bitch. I am about to start trying to solve a crawl space leak and I dread every second of it as I will probably not have satisfaction.🦇

[@rachelsnyder6698]

@@patty109109I have mold on my cement block in my basement.

[@deborahclemens7956]

What’s the approximate cost to have this work done?

[@daleravic]

Problem right off the bat. The drain needs to be at the bottom of the footer. This will not stop water coming through the floor.

[@jude999]

Doesnt removing the concrete floor compromise the foundation?

[@feliksplotnikov6408]

jude999 No. Floor is independent from foundation.

[@aaronsg71]

So how much does this cost?

[@wandagee2358]

I really enjoyed watching this video how to waterproof a basement. Excellent work done and years of happiness for a dry basement. Thank you!

[@raysmith1820]

Water is discharged through PVC piping outside and at least 4 feet away from the foundation to prevent it recycling back against the home's foundation. This is why you often see sump pump discharges installed to drain out onto splash blocks.

[@gchsbus]

The whole reason the basement is leaking is because the builder has those walls as thin as possible required by code and used cheap concrete. When my friend was building his home a few years ago, they built the basement and foundation, basically laying a thick concrete slab for the basement floor. They then layed some type of rubber membrane. Then they lowered some metal plate on top of the membrane. I think it was steel. Then then layed another membrane then another layer of concrete. After that, they did the same with the walls. The walls are also a few feet above the ground at the top. They backfilled the sides with dirt and when they were done building the house, it sits a little higher than the other homes in the neighborhood. Guess what? NO LEAKS! Imagine that!

[@robdoe5260]

What the......I have heard of this. " technology" it basically hides the problem it may stop the flooding but not the water and it just pumps it out but still the moisture is present and over time mold will come

[@harishrana9195]

How much it cost?

[@mikebevan1034]

Wouldn't those panels make mold more likely?

[@mildredfrance3792]

How do I find out what it cost and how to get it

[@Burps___]

It appears that the end output of the entire system is far too close to your house, and I’m guessing that the amount of lawn erosion there is an issue.

[@reajoyeugene9097]

How much it cost overall for this system?

[@randy7068]

Depends on the length. 85 percent of a 1500 sq. foot basement was $20,000 Canadian or about $15,200 USA dollars. Remember, some people don't have the luxury of digging outside of the basement to repair the issue due to space limitations, Florida rooms etc.

[@youngamong7618]

4k

[@hellcat1988]

What do you do when you have two constant streams of water through your basement, one from either side, flowing through your basement more or less all year? A hell of a lot more than they did here.

[@patgreenfield405]

Build an indoor pool.

[@overthehilldill3626]

Break out the surfboard and hit the tube dude.

[@michaelbrock3374]

Good building practices will tell you that the proper engineered way to get rid of water in your basement is to take it the right way, from the outside. Dig to the bottom of the footing, find all the cracks, defects, apply plastic tar coating on all of it or the significant defect area. Then I installed a thick Visquen plastic layer from the very top of the wall, above the grass line, all the way down to the very bottom of the footing. while the plastic tar was still wet. For the next 30 years I never had a leak. No where in the basement did it leak. I installed a new heavy duty sump pump to upgrade and insure reliable pump operations. No mold, no leaks, basement dry. this approach worked perfect for me.

[@andrewbatts7678]

Cheaper too

[@denniscerletti2244]

Start from the outside, Smart, start from the inside, Stupid.

[@RicardoRodriguez-tm6tz]

Very cool idea with the plastic liner behind the perforated drain pipe to allow water in. I feel the wall liner will always hold moisture, depending on how much water is actually coming in. Also mold will eventually develop behind the liner and become a centipede water bug haven but the "customer" as you say will never see this cause its covered. Great idea though it would be nicer if the panels could come down yearly to make sure its remaining dry.

[@citticat2]

I don't like that idea either and I don't even know if a backer-board would work.

[@Freecan67]

So what did it Cost?

[@notcharles]

A few years back we had a guy come tout this approach - about ten thousand dollars and no warranty

[@vikingdad6238]

our backyard is clay. we have a mini shallow swimming pool effect after a good rain. and it always leaks in ONE tiny spot, bottom of the foundation wall, at the floor. We use a wet dry vac to vacuum..but the idea of the plastic piping to direct the water towards the washing machine area where there is a drain sounds intriguing.

[@ResidentialDirtWork]

Fix from the outside

[@patty109109]

I have the same effect. Sand top layer on pure clay, so my house is in a perpetual pool of water.

[@joeshmoe7789]

That discharge at the end should be open horizontal, not up. That's why it could freeze. If the up discharge is used, there should be weep holes for it to completely drain. This end in his discharge system necessitates the added expense of his fail/safe fittings.

[@icawn]

hi question. in crawlspaces i see everyone putting down vapor barriers in the form of poly tarping. i dont trust tape and caulking to seal water for a long period of time. is there a reason no one simply pours concrete instead like a typical basement?

[@BasementSystemsInc]

icawn Hello icawn. If the objective is to seal water out, pouring concrete in the crawl space won't help accomplish it. Concrete is a porous material, and ground water will still be able to seep through it and evaporate into the area.

[@waleyefish9026]

When you think about it, Ron may have turned his basement into one giant sump pit. You must maintain the battery and replace the pumps every 7 to ten years.

[@amartinez1279]

I thought you were smarter than that. I bet your basement smells musty and still have mold. I'm a Roofer above grade and below grade membranes. I've done a lot of basement water proofing and I know you have cracks in your walls. You need to dig out the dirt around the outside of your basement wall and seal it correctly and put some french drains to devert any water that acuminates on and by the concrete walls. Anyway I think you should of thurally researched the problem instead of throwing a dart at the yellow pages to pick a contractor. Let us know on the results of the basement project. I'm not here to laugh I'm here to see a project done right. There a lot of people that watch and there going to do the same thing you did but be disappointed at the results. I'm a fan and still watching.

[@sethshaffer8592]

How much is a proper membrane and french drain install on a home on average?

[@lkmcle5409]

@@sethshaffer8592 it's just digging around the house down to the footings and putting in a drain same as inside and putting in polyurethane square sheets against your wall then filling it back with dirt.

[@cordcd7]

I bought my house about 3 years ago. PO at some point had this exact same setup installed because they had at least 1 flood (there are still indicators of the flood line in parts of the basement). I have started working on the basement as one of my projects and have begun to remove the white panels and see evidence of seepage through the block and joints. You're 100% correct that this solution only moves the water that got in, out but doesn't address the root cause, the water ingress from outside. I've been researching and planning my backyard drainage project for about a year now but have to now incorporate sealing the outside foundation as part of it as I want to eliminate the water ingress as much as possible. And yes, my basement does have a slight musty odor, not terribly strong like some older home basements I'm used to, but it's there. I believe this is also in part due to the build up of probably mold on the back of those plastic sheets. IMHO this option is a good safety measure, AFTER you've addressed the outside water intrusion first, this gives you more peace of mind that you won't have a flood if it got really bad.

[@MrArdissono]

If you're not here to laugh you should really correct your spelling on thurally.

[@amartinez1279]

@@MrArdissono Yes you are right I don't know how that one got by me. But I do know what I'm talking about.

[@natalierasmussen5019]

How much did this cost ?

[@etronicsez]

I estimate about 10K, but this is a possible diy for much less if you are flipping it. It is not a good solution though, and does not solve any water vapor from the floor either most likely making that problem worse. And logically it could possibly weaken the integrity of the foundation by breaking the bond between the floor and the wall, which has been together for decades in most cases. Some companies leave tabs and feed the piping under them, but i think that is just a con as there is no way the integrity can be the same with a jack hammer blasting away for 3 hours. The floor is history, the house has begun a downward spiral.

[@SagSage73]

Why were there no weep holes drilled in the walls?

[@sandyhearn8332]

You are right, this is a poor job. Trenching should be 18 inches wide, trench should be deep enough to go to the bottom of the footings, pipes should be level with the footings, or else the water will be under the pipes and not drain away to the pump. Weep holes need to be drilled at every brick joint and every empty space in the bricks. Concrete should be thick enough for your washing machine to shimmy without breaking through the concrete. I watch a guy on KZbin who replaces these failed systems all the time because they are done wrong.

[@mkl5448]

No, no, and no. Waterproofing must be done from the outside. Will it work, probably, but do you really want to let the water in your house? I don't think so. The bypass system was funny though, the water will dump right next to the house. Genius system.

[@mistergatz7040]

Right, the water is getting cycled and recycled lol

[@josephpuchel6497]

I think the drainage pipe should have been below the footing to prevent water from flowing just under slab floor.

[@dustbat]

I have, after 30 years a crawl space leak issue. Outside repair would be best but man what a job. 18 thousand dollar side walk right in the way.🦇

[@m444ss]

Not just a good video for folks with a water problem, but also great for folks looking to build (like me) -- head off the problem before it ever starts! Thx!!

[@ResidentialDirtWork]

You will want to do exterior waterproofing not this system

[@joed1244]

What was the cost of this system including labor?

[@tousshong9438]

You don't want this system to be installed in your basement to divert water away to a pump then discharge it outside. This is not the solutions. The proper way is to prevent water to enter your basement from the first place....that's where the root cause is.

[@patty109109]

@@tousshong9438tbh when I read comments like yours I think your entire education on this topic is merely reading KZbin comments. Although exterior proofing is preferred, if your footings are below the water table, and you’ve not opportunity to use a gravity drain, you’re pumping. Period.

[@SportsIncorporated]

How about the exterior. That''s where I would start.

[@james3440]

Whoa your a genius. I bet that’s why your a millionaire?

[@bossboston816]

Then what if it happens again? After outside work?

[@overthehilldill3626]

@@bossboston816 place 100 lbs of C4 around the house and hit detonator.

[@bossboston816]

@@overthehilldill3626 lol

[@overthehilldill3626]

@@bossboston816 I'm being facetious cuz I'm having leaking issues right now and I'm pissed!

[@tritonmemnon5801]

We agree with the previous comment. The graphic used to explain the increased water pressure is accurate but does not indicate the full import of a true waterproofing and barrier placement between your (any) Basement Wall and the dirt fill up against any house. Remember "remediation" is NOT prevention.

[@biffoswilly]

Ron I am an engineer and I deal with these basement systems and the only issue I have with the system is how Larry has installed it You seem to have a high water table so the outlet drain from the pumps will be subject to flooding and this means the special fittings Larry invented will always need to operate in winter time when rains are regular. If I was larry I would have moved these and the main outlet drain further away from the house otherwise you pump water from the basement to outside only for it to return 'cycling around' from outside to inside until your pumps burn out from continuous use, most pumps can handle a few hours continuous running but as a worst case these could be running 24-7 for the entire wet season.

[@andrewbatts7678]

You are an engineer, but you never even consider that simply digging an outdoor trench to the footing then sealing the wall will unlike any indoor system, actually fix the problem? In most cases an outdoor system costs about a third of what these indoor dog and pony shows charge

[@dustbat]

My pond pump runs year round and has been doing so for many years.🦇

[@terrylutke]

The very first thing to do when correcting a wet basement is to inspect or install roof gutters and proper downspouts. Second is to check earth grading around the home to be sure rain water is running away and not accumulating next to the wall. Neither of these are mentioned at all.The system shown seems ok, however to install an attractive interior wall 'skin' would require a skilled carpenter. I see the 'skin' fitting process looking like a hack job with all the cuts a basement panel job would require

[@stifflers69mom1]

peter d don’t finish your basement and run a humidifier

[@neilrogers2552]

Sgreaming daily .slots bc live

[@neilrogers2552]

Streaming daily slots bc

[@sku32956]

I preach this all the time try to stop the water on the out side first .Then you install a sump[ pump but only as the last resort . By the way your trench should be at the same grade as the footer looks like you did not go deep enough .

[@notcharles]

Ron is not your friend. He's a salesman. He sells Ron and, in this case Basement Systems - note the 800 number he included. Search for Basement Systems and maybe find a guy who isn't cutting a deal to advertise their work. A guy who can tell us how it worked for him. PS: Gutters, downspouts (I added one to the middle of the house front and back when we re-roofed the place), leaf screens and good drainage are first steps as the OP said.

[@krismaly6300]

Thanks for posting and educating the community and appreciate your volunteer-ship Please keep post home improvement and DIY videos

[@xenawolf]

Maybe address the outside drainage problems first.

[@vvsiva007]

Yeap - it is bad that these guys did not take care of it outside.

[@LibertyFixxxer]

Like what?

[@SScogin]

Like gutters, french drain, or slope around the perimeter of the foundation. All of them would be more effective at keeping the water from getting there in the first place.

[@jeb1487]

@@LibertyFixxxer Make sure the gutters are working properly and discharge far away from the foundation. Grade the topsoil to drain away from the house. Run edging three feet around the perimeter of the foundation. Use soil to create as steep of a pitch as possible, away from the foundation, in between the edging and foundation. Keep the pitch aesthetically pleasing. Lay impermeable landscaping fabric on top of the soil from the foundation to the edging. Put 3" of 2-3" stone on top of the fabric. If there is a lot of water problems you can dig a trench before the edging and lay drain tile on the fabric then cover with the rock. I like using sewer pipe pvc that the downspout of the gutter directs into. Get that dug down below the frost line close to where the downspout attaches to it as possible. In the winter they can freeze and back up when snow melts on the roof. Run it out far away from the foundation to a rain garden. The sump pump discharge and drain tile under the landscaping rock can discharge into the pvc sewer pipe. The pvc is typically less expensive than corrugated drain tile and you can snake it if it gets clogged.

[@jeb1487]

Oh and buy a leaf blower to blow out your nice stone regularly. Otherwise organic material turns to soil and weeding anything with fabric underneath is a nightmare, but that's also how I put myself through college.

[@richardmckrell4899]

I hope Ron got a big check from Basement Systems because he sold out big time.

[@richardmckrell4899]

It's a Basement Systems Commercial

[@mroberts566]

@Liberty AboveAllElse Improving surface drainage doesn't cost nearly that much. That's always first because it's almost always the cause.

[@mroberts566]

@Liberty AboveAllElse Sorry, that's not true. This house is a good example: the basement gets when when it pours. Otherwise, it's dry. That's what Ron said. Cheap solutions like extending downspouts are always the first option, though they often don't solve the problem. Bringing in dirt to improve drainage away from the house is second, when possible. Installing subsurface pipes/drains is third, and interior improvements are the last resort.

[@ak-burn1]

That system is garbage. It’s needs to be sloped 4in pvc with holes installed at the bottom of footing surrounded by a drain sock and gravel. It is ground water. He must have a high water table.

[@Wolfie66]

I installed roof gutters and fixed the grading around the house. I still get a tiny bit of water during the spring thaw but otherwise I consider the problem to be solved.

[@skrise507]

I'm thinking thats what I need to do for my house also

[@stuartfarrell6729]

this is not water profing its just redireting water

[@Kauppamopo]

never heard of french drain?

[@lyon406]

oui, oui

[@Powerstroke9773]

Extierior weeping tile and a waterproof yet breathable membrane on the outside is what you need.

[@evanpenny348]

Don't want to be pedantic but there is no such thing as a waterproof yet breathable membrane.

[@Skanzool]

@@evanpenny348 He needs to remove two words from his sentence in order to be correct -1. yet, 2. breathable.

[@mfb6310]

I had them install my sump pump, drain pipes, triple backup system and inner perimeter drains on 2 of 4 walls. But they didn't wrap the bucket with a filter to keep the sand out. And 6 years later it all filled with sand - pit, pumps, and pipes. Basement flooded. Alarm system failed too, and I learned later it was because they plugged all 3 pumps onto each other, piggy back into one outlet. And I, a single parent, female, was never told, and I never noticed. So when it failed, they all blew. Fuse blew too, while I'm standing in the water. I was still terrified, with 3 pumps still plugged into the outlet, in the pit. I had a wall that was slightly bowed and it became a serious one with a bigger crack. And I called and called. Eventually another company came in and tore out their pit work and we stared at their bucket without the wrap. New pit, new single pump, 14 wall anchors and $25,000 bill..I'll never recommend these guys.

[@wickedmessenger1]

The opening scene shows water pooling at the foundation and pouring off the roof or overflowing from the gutters. That is the problem. Leaving the problem in place and dealing with the symptom (at an enormous cost) is so foolish it defies logic. Imagine if your roof leaked and a contractor came up with an elaborate drainage system installed inside the attic to keep up with the leaky roof. It's absurd, right? Well, when confronting basement flooding you start by picking the low-hanging fruit and work your way up the tree. Install gutters and make sure the downspouts discharge far from the foundation. That might do the trick. Then, grade the property so that water flows away from the house. If that doesn't work, install a french drain system outside. This is much cheaper than jack-hammering concrete in the basement. If all that doesn't work, you'll have to do something like what they did in this video. But I think the easier, less costly measures would have the problem resolved before a jackhammer ever had to make an appearance.

[@sammy7237]

wickedmessenger1 “Imagine if your roof leaked and a contractor came up with an elaborate drainage system installed inside the attic to keep up with the leaky roof. It’s absurd, right?” That’s a great analogy.

[@joeshmoe7789]

He did nothing to address continuing damage to the foundation by allowing water to continue to run in.

[@jimmalley]

@ Joe Shmoe….I called this Larry Janeskys company… Connecticut Basement Systems to come and give me an estimate, as I am having drainage issues…I quickly cancelled when I saw the system he uses, because of the same thought as you… not addressing the water problem from the exterior… I have a contractor doing the drainage system from the exterior wall to the footings, for what I’m guessing would be half the price as this system!!

[@joeshmoe7789]

@@jimmalley Good move! There are a lot of "experts" out there that don't know anything and others selling the most expensive job. Another problem is several different types of contractors specialize in the different installations that may need to be done. Sometimes a wrongly pitched sidewalk against a house can be a problem. The guy running pipes doesn't make any money from a sidewalk job. Getting roof water, patio water, etc away from the house is the first thing to do and keep in mind every house and property is different. Feel free to contact me here if you have any questions, I'm not in the business, but I've seen plenty of unnecessary work done. People are easily impressed by the term "french drain". Good Luck!

[@jimmalley]

@@joeshmoe7789 TY appreciate it!!…Stay Well

[@jertarwaterproofing2638]

What do you think is the best solution for basement waterproofing in geenral?

[@johnforshee1416]

Thanks for the video. I learned a lot.

[@tousshong9438]

I had hope you learn the this is the incorrect water proofing system for your basement. This does not solve the problem of water entering your basement so it is wrong to do it this way. The right way is to prevent water from entering your basement on the first place. I have seen many video that his is the wrong way. Hope you learn that this is not the way.

[@daleHarrison93]

@@tousshong9438 which is the best way?

[@glennjones1054]

The only way to properly drain a basement is weeping tile installed between the top and bottom of the footing with lots of clean rock so it drains all water sitting under slab... you've compromised your entire entire slab as there are no engineered tabs left connecting the slab to the footer which prevents the floor from settling and the walls from pushing in the bottom of the walls... this solution will result in water sitting in the plastic gutter which evaporates up behind the plastic sheets into the basement area so its always damp and musty... will keep water off the floor but does not solve the real underlying drainage problem

[@patty109109]

Obviously this is wrong, or else every house in my area is compromised. I have toured many new builds and only one builder locally even has the slab touching the side of the wall; the vast majority of older-and new-homes here have a floating slab, with an inch or so air space between the wall and the slab, which is intended to catch any wall runoff and direct under the floor, ultimately making its way to the sump crock.

[@dickbuttz7428]

Those wall liners are mold factories if you ask me, as for the sumps there should be a water powered backup sump pump, they mount inline with a water line on the basement ceiling, dip straw/ tube sucks from the pit and in case of failure or power failures and battery dead water powered runs endlessly and will never peter out. I worked on a home that added a 2nd story and it had a gutter setup that terminated in one downspout into the first floor-roof, valley which made quite a bit of water being deposited next to the foundation!

[@IppiopaidFEEDBACK]

I’ve never seen them with three pumps, only one or two.

[@hichamlhachimi9594]

What if the water comes from tbe bottom of the basement ? That solution doesn't solve the issue

[@bryanholland7]

Ive used black death on the outside concrete below ground level before. Now this system allows water into the house then released outside. If you black death an exterior. Have the ground sloped for water run off and erosion. Then you wouldn't get any water in the house right? Just think putting plastic on pre-existing walls on an interior is a band aid, cost more money, and doesn't really do anything to solve the problem. Water is getting in your house.

[@safeguardmanagement]

What is black death?

[@bryanholland7]

It's a tar like substance that never dries. In alaska we use it to seal the top and bottom plate before you put the vapor barrier up to trap air for insulation. I've also see it put on exterior of basement concrete before you back fill it.

[@1notgilty]

Yikes! As soon as I saw them putting plastic panels on the wall to hide the water coming through the wall I knew this was not a good system. You have to keep the water out of the wall on the outside, drain it out of the wall if it does get into the wall and then drain the water away from the footer and into the sump pit to be pumped out of the house by the sump pump. Anything else is window dressing hiding the problems.

[@ddiehl5664]

Thanks for your insight and great comment. I just experienced basement flooding for the first time in Nashville after buying my house. What kind of company would I look for? Any suggestion as to how to go forward would be greatly appreciated. Thank you again for taking the time to read this.

[@bwakel310]

Exact opposite of what really happens.

[@aquiljannah7017]

they didnt even drill weep holes...im not too confident about this system

[@andrewbatts7678]

@@aquiljannah7017 considering that weep holes would make the problem even worseid say it's just as well

[@tomrite]

@@aquiljannah7017 Did so many things wrong!! can not drill weep holes into a concrete wall, drain tile should be along footing not on top, exterior walls are still going to leach and mold, thus cover the wall for appearance is the answer? Its a band aid fix at best.

[@watchmanexpert]

how much is this job for crawl space ?

[@clacicle]

Why not put in a french drain and waterproof the outside walls?

[@danielfinao]

Very entertaining video.

[@understructurerepair7132]

Janesky is the founder of the whole industry. He must be a multimillionaire. I've used 10,000 of those plastic fasteners. If the walls is very old ? We have seen them lose their connectivity which isn't the end of the world. Just put it in some place else, but first we stated filling the hole that we jammed the connector into with hydraulic cement. Then we ent to Lexel. Now we use gorilla glue. Each one got better and better results. This is a 1950s house. Why use a $50,000 system on a $60,000 house. This thing is $5-$8,000 and does the job. Man, I'd like to franchise with Larry. I can't market. I can sell and deliver.

[@vancouverrealestate2766]

With constant water, his concrete wall will get eaten from the acid in the water and eventually have a collapse. This should be a criminal conviction and put away for being a snake oil salesman.

[@matthewgiesselmann6188]

seems like a good point there

[@rubensahak9178]

like collapse after 200yrs by then we are not sure we''ll be here on this planet

[@nuffsd]

What about the mold that will grow behind that plastic sheeting?

[@drivecam101]

It's polyethylene mold can't eat it and it's difficult to get anything to stick to it including glues and adhesives. It's unlikely mold will grow there.

[@farrell3348]

They should drill to the outside so water does not have to go through the concrete it come through the hole into the drain and helps keep you foundation in good shape

[@Raymond-mk8cb]

Why would a celebrity home improvement host allow his basement to be flooded several times before he decided to do anything about it? A professional would have planned ahead to ensure water never entered his basement the first time.

[@notcharles]

Wanna take odds on whether it was actually his house at all?

[@commonsenseguy8189]

So you have 2 heavy duty pumps for moving 7000 gallons of water per hour, but if the power fails as it sometimes does in a heavy storm, you flood the basement because that little DC pump can not match the load for removing the water in a heavy storm.... or even in a 8 hour long storm.... better idea is to re grade the land outside away from the home and also make the second pump a water pressure pump, these pumps use the homes cold water line to run the pump... when have you ever had no cold water in a storm?

[@zachford2616]

Why not heat trace the pipes and dig a deeper hole? Those backup holes...why wouldn’t they freeze as well?

[@sammy7237]

Zach Ford “Those backup holes...why wouldn’t they freeze as well?” As well as what?

[@feliksplotnikov6408]

Drainage system should have been installed from outside during construction. Where was a home inspector? Now digging from outside around a house is the best, but would have astronomical price. Owners usually take a cheaper half-measures.

[@deerhunter7482]

All of that work and the outside of the house still has water going through the walls .

[@falsealarmno]

Lol. I was thinking the same thing.

[@jjuggernaut3218]

Yep! Your redirecting the river, not stopping it! Get better drainage outside to keep the water away from the wall in the first place!

[@wilsden]

@@jjuggernaut3218 those are impossible to prevent from clogging eventually

[@amielamedo1948]

very informative.

[@iliketacos6067]

thanks for the video

[@tinamcclinton2408]

how much dose this cost I live in a flood plan just wanna no how much this cost probable cant afford it

[@notcharles]

"I live in a flood plan" Move

[@oliverwhisper]

10-20 thousand.

[@felixmadison5736]

Doesn't matter how much it rains, I never get water in my basement after 37 years. The walls are always bone dry. The problem I have is with the water table. When that rises it pushes right up through the concrete floor, even after I had another six inches of concrete poured over the old floor. If the water table is low I never have a drop of water or condensation in the basement no matter how much rain we get.

[@joeshmoe7789]

This is where I think an interior french drain could help. I'd talk to a reputable contractor as most don't know the best way.

[@stevekaufmann8109]

Hydroarmor guy beats this guy

[@joyanderson8646]

Steve Yes!!! He's expensive but he gets er done right the 1st time!!!!🤗🤗🤗

[@krismaly6300]

Thanks for educating the community and appreciate your volunteer_ship Please keep posting some videos or other home improvement videos, please please

[@DurbanMystic]

Hmm. Why not drain and waterproof the basement on the outside and prevent the seepage into the basement..

[@lsakk]

This just pretty much guarantees you'll have 100% pure dry basement. I live in Wisconsin and I was quoted $16,000 to do our basement just like they did his didn't do it yet love kayaking in in the basement lol lol no kidding

[@Benmeglei1]

Can’t you buy a brand new crib for 16k in Wisconsin? Ha just kidding bud.

[@ianmcgarrigle9510]

the watter test at the bottom of the stairs was an eppic fail lol the watter went straight acrossthe grait at 11m24s

[@PayNoTax-GetNoVote]

You mean @11:24 ? That way you can click on the numbers and it takes you straight there

[@PayNoTax-GetNoVote]

Think you meant 9:24

[@Leah.Franklin]

I noticed that as well - smh

[@NYYBBTeam]

The outside of the house is the problem. Ground is flat. It should slope away from the house. Fix this first.

[@exposedlatinas2764]

why not dig around the house and spray waterproof coating on the outside.

[@rick3747]

Cause concrete needs to breathe. Drylok will ruin concrete and blocks. Proper draining, proper slope and proper backfill are the key.

[@jonathanschneider8297]

This whole system seems to be treating the symptom and not the problem. I agree sump pumps are sometimes necessary, but grading and guttering are the first issues that need to be addressed. Also, it seems like the exterior drain for the sump is still very close to the foundation, not to mention that overflow system that just dumps the water right next to the foundation, creating a closed system. Those pumps will be working hard! I did like the quality of the video. It was simple and easy to understand.

[@meblake7359]

The only backup sump pump ever needed is a Water Powered Sump Pump. It uses municipal water supply to pump out the sump water. No batteries or electricity.

[@PatrickWagz]

what if the house is on well water???

[@stifflers69mom1]

Patrick Wagz LoL then it’s not the only backup sump pump ever needed 😆

[@baba-sm1fm]

The system has no slope! Because the plastic drain is so up high, you will always have water sitting at the bottom of the trench where the gravel is. Not sure this is a good system...

[@robsp32]

@Paul Starr You want to remove the water before it reaches the height of this floor level drain, regardless of if the basement never "floods". Which is why systems that are installed correctly are installed with 4" ABS weeping tile pipes with a filter sock and rocks around them. Relief holes are drilled in the cinder block foundation to allow water to drain out of the cylinder blocks (which are hollow) into the drainage system, to be plumbed to the sump pump for removal. If you dont have relief holes in the cylinder block foundation, it does nothing to prevent the lateral water pressure being exerted on the foundation from the outside of the foundation wall.

[@DS-kn4bs]

It's not lol

[@fetofeto5466]

please answer i got this done around the perimeter of my basement they left this black plastic thing around the perimeter the job is done can i remove it?

[@GabrielLopez-bi4yu]

Feto Feto the black plastic must be what they used as a vapor barrier. Can’t be removed

[@juliogaytan5048]

Ron is sellout for this one.

[@imdaver1]

ahh, no protection, smells so good... so old school...

[@VladTheImpalerTepesIII]

Mold will grow behind that plastic sheeting and a perimeter trench in a basement means you get a damp basement. The ONLY true way to solve basement leakage is to fix on the problem on the OUTSIDE to prevent water coming in in the first place. This type of job is basically just trading one problem for another.

[@eddyvideostar]

Nice video. Question: Why is the water being discharged into the yard?

[@mikes8016]

eddyvideostar probably no storm drain in his area or it’s clogged and cheaper to discharge to the yard then replace what’s there

[@evanpenny348]

This is not a very good system. Sure it drains away water that has got into your basement, but the engineering thing to do is prevent water getting into the basement in the first place. A properly designed waterproof membrane against the outside of the basement wall is a good start, together with a good drainage pipework and drainage backfill (not just pushing the soil back into the hole. Also the concrete work can be very effectively made waterproof with hydrosilicate gell sprayed onto the inside of the basement. This is especially effective over the floor slab to prevent moisture migrating upwards from the ground underneath the slab. Obviously you cannot retrofit a waterproof membrane under an existing slab without tearing it all up and starting again. This gel penetrates the pores of the concrete, reacts with the excess lime liberated when the concrete initially goes off (and is the origin of the efflorescence) and converts it into new cement. This new cement fill the voids that make the concrete porous in the first place. The result is a much stronger and waterproof concrete. Note that this may not work very well with cinder blocks because they often are made with fine aggregate that contains porous filler material. This filler material remains porous when hydrosilicate treatment is applied. You can order high density block when you build the house. This kind of block probably does not contain purous filler material, your block supplier should be able to advise on this option, but this is a no good option in an existing house.

[@hoolu2]

What a mess but hey ...it's all shiney and brand new ~ so it must be good?!

[@hudongwang7550]

Interesting， thanks

[@citticat2]

This pump requires a designated electrical outlet, I am not sure what you do when that basement is actually a bedroom, and with the garbage we buy from China how long will that pump last?

[@bigalsguttersandlandscapes909]

I definitely think mold grow behind that paneling just the way to cover the problem

[@errcoche]

There are additives that make concrete non-porous and completely waterproof. They seem to pretend that this doesn't exist in the US because it would kill off this aftermarket of remediation of problems that we would never having with proper building codes and methods in place. Concrete sealing is a huge business.

[@Layarion]

hmm...cost? and how much to rent the tools and do this myself?

[@chirina5]

Do you have an email? I can help guide you through the process

[@rjp.3574]

This has got to be a $15k to $20k job. I want to level my entire concrete slab and the company quoted me $17k....just to dig up about an inch, pour some mix and level. I asked them what crack pipe were they smoking. 🚬

[@moidrissi6426]

This is a water management, the proper way is to waterproof and seal the outer walls, he wont need the sump pump after that .

[@bossboston816]

So let me get this strait you buy a house that was wterproofed before it was backfilled during the building process. It gets water pressure against it and causes cracks from the preasure and leaks throughout the foundation. So now we dig up the whole foundation again later inlife. Pay for it. Or have someone do it. Rewaterproof it. Add a membrane and Backfill and now we are good to go? So that means now no water will make it under my footer and cause pressure on my slab? For a fact?. Yes outsude water proffing, gutter routing, grading, frenchdrains will help but very costly for all that and still very possible to still habe problems. Then what pay for more work from the inside to route it away anyways? Most dont have the money for outside repair and cant chance it not keeping there basement dry. Let alone pay again for more work inside. Is this system cheap YES. Will it work for way cheaper yes As long as you route discharge far enough away.

[@dennispuleo9575]

@10:29....so I don't have to do anything.. haha.. no just cut a big check!!

[@leadclerk]

Please get rid of the background music. Overrides the speaker. Hear more music that Ron.

[@calikokat100]

i thought inside drains...result in mold growth and high humidity basements...

[@keithupton86ku]

If the drain isn't functioning properly, then yes.

[@Truckerchick04942]

Wow! This had to cost a good $10K !!

[@829joliver]

I recently had a quote from one of these franchised dealer in the Upstate NY region for the basement in my 1,800 sq ft house. It came to in excess of $14,500! (But they reduced the quote by 5% for a "military discount") They basically take a "cookie cutter", one size fits all approach to the problem. I already had a good collection system around the interior basement walls beneath a poured concrete floor which them emptied into a sump well with a pump. My issue was that water was just coming at two distinct points above the footings. On their quote, they did not separate parts and labor. The "TripleSafe", three pump sump in a 20 gal plastic bucket was listed at $2,500. In checking, I found these were available at retail for somewhere between $500 to $700. So the difference was for labor/installation. Other listed parts followed the same pricing scheme. I found a viable solution to my issues which has worked perfectly - Benenite Injection! A contracted with a firm that bores 2" holes every 18" or so around the exterior house perimeter and then injects this clay/volcanic ash compound under pressure. It then follows the course of least resistance filling in the cracks and gaps around and beneath the poured foundation walls. When it eventually comes in contact with water, it swells to 20x its volume sealing the fissures. And the cost? $6,000 with a transferable, lifetime guarantee...

[@Truckerchick04942]

@@829joliver It pays to hold off on a big project (if you can) until you do your research and get several quotes from different contractors. Never heard of this being done before, but thanks for this info. Good to know for future reference if needed.