How to Wire an Electric Heater Kit With A Blower Relay

[@roqueherrera8471]

After 10 times of watching I got it thank u

[@jericosha2842]

This was fantastic. The way you wired it here just made more sense than normal. Thanks for taking the time man.

[@blackcat31w]

I like to refer to the 240 VAC legs as L1 and L2 where L1 is usually black and L2 is usually red. The term common brings to mind a circuit that is continuous throughout the circuit and is never switched or even fused. I do not have an HVAC background so that is probably why I learned different terminology

[@jrtakesthesky27]

At the end of my first semester for basic electricity we had to wire a split system from scratch as a final exam. While practicing for it, the moment it all clicked was from messing with the sequencer and fan relay. All the different ways you can route with those two switch controls was fun.

[@myLordSaves]

That's amazing, what a guy can do with a sequencer and relay, the possibility are endless. Thank you Sir, another great video!!!!

[@Demy26]

HVAC Guy Master Course

[@billybrown1979]

like the video, keep up the work. be safe. i do read your comments.

[@mypindiwala]

If use terminal # while explaining wiring instead of (it’s goes here, it’s goes here to here) would be more helpful for a tech. It’s a great video for tech.

[@jasonkang4126]

Great video Curtis PLEASE more lesson video like this PLEASE

[@stevencossaboon3237]

Good video Curtis. Always learn a lot from them. Thank you.

[@michaelmartin5582]

Excellent job Curtis.

[@maintenanceman1015]

That was very help full answered if the unit had low heat 1 coil and high heat 2 coil . Looks like just high only , maybe with a 2 stage heat thermostat could be done .

[@michaelgonzales803]

Thank you Curtis for the lesson. I actually just pulled a heat kit today that I will be doing just this. For the first time. Keep up the great work! 👍

[@bigdaddy4975]

9340 is only good for 15 amps you cannot hook heat strips up for that.

[@hinspect]

Another great video, I always enjoy watching them. One comment and I'm sure you are ahead of me but when working with heating elements with high current especially, I have an assortment of non insulated steel high temperature crimp terminals to use when necessary, ring as well as spade. The soft ones will loosen and melt after a while. Thanks again for the video! 😀🇺🇸

[@kg4muc]

Good instructions! You can build on that to handle multiple stages of heat if needed

[@rolytech212]

I have learned a lot from your videos. Thank you

[@billmiller5075]

Excellent video

[@garenharutyunyan4275]

Great video.Thank you!!!

[@hvaclifeatx7012]

Great one,, keep them videos coming 👌

[@jimmylanders2175]

Great video!

[@hughholt121]

I have never used the common for the switch wire . Black common goes to the always hot terminals . Red is the switch leg that is broken by relays , contactors and switches. Same is true on T-stat wires at 24 volts.

[@adrianfelix1592]

Good job explaining that

[@lancelawrence3259]

Nice work

[@barrypurslow8320]

I think a circuit diagram would make things clearer

[@reggie7021]

I agree, however this will help younger technicians in our field.

[@ParabellumX]

I'm about to finish my first semester in HVACR in one more week. We will be off for a month, in which we will start our second semester and learn Heating Systems and Controls. This video is perfect timing. 🥰

[@corruptedbrain6]

best thing to do is go out in the field and look at the diagrams and as well as trace the wires over and over again religiously

[@jeffreyhill3960]

Instead of common and hot, perhaps you could differentiate with terminology like a phase and b phase. this appears to to me that coming from the breaker it is 240 volt. Might be confusing for beginners.

[@georgebrabec1749]

As always you gave a great lesson. One minor detail you forgot. The air flow proving switch safety in the control circuit to prevent the heat strips from energizing on fan flow loss.

[@HVACGUY]

That would be your limit. Other than that most don’t have anything else

[@jamesfitzsimmons381]

The original circuit board didn’t provide such a safety either

[@adinshazia]

hello, it's great video, did you not had to put Transformer to energize Relay with 24v?

[@jthonn]

Nice video

[@nathanhurst5155]

Nice video. Some of the comments are quite over the top but those don’t matter anyhow. Two ways to the post office. 👍

[@maheradous9257]

Good job

[@emanuels.6541]

Good stuff

[@saltybuckeye]

that was great

[@businjay]

Not Knocking anything cause I do watch your videos but why would you eliminate a heavy duty contactor and replace it with a sequencer? We dont have much electric heat here in CO but lots of commercial electric reheat VAV's. some natural draft unit heaters do use a sequencer style stack to control fans and such without a fan relay. if I was connecting such a High amperage heat kit I would prefer the contactor and another way to control the fan like a time delay or something, Im just trying to figure out your reasoning behind eliminating the contactor. Like I said Not knocking you, Just trying to ascertain the logic behind it. Good videos as always tho. every so often you get me to thinkin bout something in a different way than I normally would.

[@HVACGUY]

Contactor doesn’t have any timing between the two heat strips, and are actually more common to fail than sequencers - because of low voltage shorts

[@jpcallan97225]

Your instincts are correct, he converted a UL Listed heater assembly into a dangerous device by leaving the heating coils energized 120V with respect to ground. This work would never pass an electrical inspection because it's unsafe. The contactor de-energized both poles of the 240V circuit and should not have been removed.

[@businjay]

@@jpcallan97225 in his defense this was the way things used to be done in the past but I usually convert to a contactor on high load devices when the sequencer stack would fail. All my electric heat customers are commercial buildings as my residential is mostly gas bus pretty much all the commercial stuff that is not the one hung low brand uses contactors but have been a few that had stack sequencers. the logic he has about timing makes sense as well but short of the main not being able to handle the quick addition of 40-100 amps I can see a stepped approach, we all just have different ways of doing things, I just cant myself see where a little snap disc in a sequencer would handle the current draw that these 5-10 KW heaters use but they did it that way before and electric water heaters use extremely small contacts as well. Ive been an overengineer stuff kinda guy tho.

[@vladekvladinov5753]

I had a hard time with this dark video. For real

[@jamesfitzsimmons381]

Curtis thanks for your time making that wiring video. How come you’re not using the Milwaukee M12 drill?

[@MrKen59]

From an electrical perspective, I’m not sure running a low gauge wire for a blower motor off of a 60 amp breaker is appropriate. I’m also not sure if the manufacturer specs on a breaker allows multiple wires under a terminal. Just an observation should a fault occur. This was a wonderful presentation - thank you.

[@nathanhurst5155]

Hvac stuff is sent from the factory quite often just like that. Notice that breaker did not have spade terminals on them. Some do some don’t. That wire he used is plenty capable of handling that blower motor that will pull less than 10amps.

[@throttlebottle5906]

welcome to wiring inside appliances/machinery/cabinets, where electrical has majorly bent rules and you throw away most of your knowledge! lol they generally use smaller gauge wire with higher temp insulator jacketing.(pretty much all electrical devices/appliances) Examples: inside your typical home "oven/stovetop" and "clothes dryer" that's usually on 50 and 30 amp circuits(in USA), the majority of wiring inside them is sure not 6awg or 10 awg. of course the elements all pull far less and usually have multiple smaller conductors coming off the main inlet terminal block. you'll find a mix of wire inside from 18 to 10 awg at best.

[@MrKen59]

@@throttlebottle5906 very interesting - thank you for your informative reply. There is a guy from Canada on here that demonstrates what happens when you hit 14 awg with 60 amps and it’s remarkable how much this wire can take. I think the channel is called electromagnetic videos. I’ve just had drilled in my head that the protective device is limited by the smallest wire connected as a load. Take care.

[@Mark-vc7rm]

Enjoy your vids. I have a question about a new thermostat. I have a standard hvac system but my 9600 robertshaw thermostat is know more. What would you recommend for a replacement. I need at least 2 degree programmable variant . Thanks.

[@HVACGUY]

I’m not familiar with the 9600

[@rolytech212]

This is the second video I see you using Makita again.😎what’s the deal? Am a Dewalt tech myself. 😀

[@HVACGUY]

There are some things about the makita I really like. The only advantage of the M12 is weight. I’m weighing my options

[@rolytech212]

@@HVACGUY just commenting. I too never liked 12v. To each its own when it comes to the brand. I use Dewalt, because that’s how I started. And so far they have been good. I also have some Makitas. Only sds drill and grinder. They are also good

[@edwardgarza5104]

On a call for heat does the thermostat usually send a G signal? Or only a W signal?

[@HVACGUY]

If it’s not a heat pump it’s usually just a W call alone, same for emergency heat.

[@nathanhurst5155]

Just depends on system setup.

[@kaylalee20201]

I was just about to ask this question

[@jacobr2530]

I’m trying to wrap my head around the black “common” side. If it’s carrying 120v it’s not really common right?

[@robsim4692]

Ive got what i feel is a great question, are sequencers polarity pacific because i ordered a new sequencer and the numbers are backwards in relation to the sequencer thats being removed

[@darriuscole8544]

What kind of wire is that and where can i find it? I went to a supply house and asked for appliance wire and they were like "what's that?" All they know is romex. I need something to keep in the truck just to replace burnt out wires to heat strips and blower motors, etc. Do I have to buy it online?

[@kaylalee20201]

Is this 6 stranded wire

[@Ageehvac]

Curtis, I have a heat strip and the blower stuck on without a call...what could it be other than a short? It have a contractor not a sequencer..

[@HVACGUY]

Hard to tell without looking at it.

[@Ageehvac]

@@HVACGUY It's got me pulling my hair out....

[@hinspect]

I have had contactor points weld together from sparking/arcing before, scary

[@scotts4125]

@@Ageehvac Is it an X-13? Mine did that. I put in a rescue motor.

[@Ageehvac]

@@scotts4125 it was and I replaced it and it's still running non-stop....

[@m9ovich785]

Makita ??

[@jamesfitzsimmons381]

Curtis you were wiring a single speed blower right?

[@HVACGUY]

Yes

[@HVACGUY]

You can use the other pole on relay for a second speed

[@jamesfitzsimmons381]

Thankyou for great video. I know I have had blower motors burn up when the contact stick energizing two speeds at same time

[@HVACGUY]

@@jamesfitzsimmons381 me too. That’s why I now only use one speed

[@jamesfitzsimmons381]

You are very experienced

[@taylerellis378]

I'm lost why would you replace a contactor with a sequencer. The contactor is an upgrade over a sequencer. They no longer use sequencers in replacement heater kits for a reason. Sequencers are a thing of the past they were once needed to bring on different loads one at a time to lower the amp draw on the city transformer outside on the pole with new electrical circuits today we can bring on all the elements and fan all at the same time without any issue.

[@iamnoone.]

I'm lost in the woods

[@billderby1527]

Most if not all air handlers already have a means to control the fan. Curtis is showing how to turn on the fan when the electric is called if you don't know the simple task of programing your thermostat to control fan in electric heat.

[@iamnoone.]

@@billderby1527 I was being sarcastic

[@bigdaddy4975]

9340 is only good for 15 amps you cannot hook heat strips up for this

[@chadrhodes8330]

Only the blower motor current is going through the relay

[@amazinggrace831]

I thought white on the blower motor was common and all the speed taps , red, black, yellow, blue were hot. I’ve only watched 5 minutes of this video.

[@HVACGUY]

Any single phase has run and common as it’s two power wires. The white wire is often one of the capacitor wires. The capacitor is always between start and run. So, white is run. The other side is going to be common.

[@amazinggrace831]

@@HVACGUY i usually see 2 brown short wires to the capacitor, white wire on common terminal section of circuit board , red on heat terminal of circuit board (slow speed) black on cooling terminal of circuit board (high speed) and the remaining wires on PARK terminals. 👨🏻‍🔧🙏🏻

[@brandoncorrea511]

So on a single speed will it still work without that run winding connected or u have to also?

[@m9ovich785]

You'd think Time Delay Relays would be more reliable than the constant bending of the Bi-metallic Pieces . Size & Over Current protect the Ckt and You would not need Sequencing. AHAHAHAH 13:42 Plastic Fart.....

[@brandoncorrea511]

U lost me at run winding at blower motor? How u know it’s red and not a speed?

[@That_40yrOld_Dad]

Anyone willing to maybe face time me and help with wiring a different circuit board on my firnace. Reason its not the same..free, so i need to make it work. Mr Taddy wanted a 100 bucks. Damn bro help people, i would do the same...tile, polebarns, windows,doors...ect

[@jpcallan97225]

You blew it on this one, converting a UL Listed heater assembly into a dangerous mess. Have you ever had the city/county electrical inspector examine one of these conversions? No way would it pass. Leaving the heating coils energized with respect to ground is just plain dangerous, hence the purpose of the 2-pole contactor. Fed by the high amperage breaker, this wiring arrangement could cause a fire if anything conducting, like insulation foil backing, were to pass down the duct.

[@madmac4509]

Alot of factory heat kits are wired this exact same way. I was on one last week.

[@jpcallan97225]

@@madmac4509 Are you certain that heater product was UL listed?

[@madmac4509]

@@jpcallan97225 if it came factory like that, which most heat kits were built like that in the last 30yrs, then i would say yes.

[@michaelbroadbent4703]

having one constant hot leg of power on a 220 circuit is not dangerous. It's exactly how your water heater works if you have an electric water heater. The elements have one constant hot leg and one switched leg of power by the thermostats.