HPI Bullet Flux ST 6 Month Review

[@josefhab8095]

I bought this rig years ago It was first edition. Then sold it and bought another one week later. Well for some reason I like this rig. But there is a big but. There are some very necessary upgrades you wanna do if running on 3S Lipo. Definitely front CVD highly recommended. Dogbones jumps out very quickly. I have CVD on all corners. Screws gets loose on from arms, yes. Use Loctite. I tried Alu arms C hubs, but this wrong way. You better stay with plastic stuff. Tires? Amunition is much better. I had both. Weak point is bearings in wheels. These are 4x10x5 2 on each corner. I recommend to buy very good ones as original don't last long. I have 3 HPI cars - Bullet, Ford Fiesta Gymkhana and Blitz Flux. Very happy with all of them but Bullet gives me headache sometimes. I just like their car for some reason.

[@24sev365]

I hav'nt had any problems, both my bullets (Flux and nitro 3.0) run awesome!! 2 years now....

[@mrtuppy5358]

I don't think as a whole they are as unreliable as mine, it's just unfortunate that I had so many problems

[@robertfake6496]

I will say this, I have an original 1st edition Bullet flux with the 380 sized motor. I did all hubs aluminium, c-blocks and I did cvd swing shafts. It is as tough as any other rc I have, very reliable. Part of your issues are not using locktite on any screws that go into aluminium. Also that 2nd battery pack is 3s , you are just asking to break things running on 3s. That is a fact. Aluminium control arms are a huge mistake on any rc, my stock ones have lasted me years, but of course I only run 2s 5500mah batteries. I would stop using the 3s battery and put the plastic control arms back on and get another 2s battery. You will be able to enjoy running it and not having to fix it every time you run it.

[@rc-teamoberland6907]

I own the Bullet MT Flux for about 2 months and I have the same problems. At the beginning after round about 5 Minutes I had the first problem - the plastic hex nuts where the tires are fixed were broken. The next problems: at the acceleration I loose the front dogbones, either the right or the left one. Then I mounted a lot of Aluminium parts and the CVD's on the front, the T-Bone Racing front and rear bumper - now I'm able to drive round about 30 minutes. Now the differential outgoing part is broken and today I've seen that some cogs are damaged (caries on the tooth😖). I drive this car only with 2S Lipo, punch mode 5 (instead of 7) and the maximum Brake force is 50% (instead of 100%). I used this car round about 5 accupacks and it's so annoying, still waiting for the next damage. It's not a cheap truck (here in Germany I paid 349€) and you have to spend a lot more for tuning parts so that you are able to have fun for a few minutes. I spent round about 200€ for tuning parts. For this money you can buy an Arrma truck - and I think this is the better choice. This was my first HPI and also the last one - never again!!!

[@chris-ip4pk]

Cvd joints a must

[@vijayplaha7805]

Totally agreeable to what you say had the same problem total waste of money

[@cwatson42785]

Use blue locktite on any and all metal to metal screws mate. Make sure to let it dry a few hours or overnight before you run it. Screws won't vibrate out if you use it.

[@mrtuppy5358]

Cheers bud. I'll give it a try

[@cwatson42785]

@@mrtuppy5358 Hey mrtuppy did you try the loctite/ thread locker? Also how has the truck been one year after watching this? Still junk in your opinion? These are on sale for 200$ but I remembered your video lol. Hope you had better luck with it.

[@bertmurphy8096]

U/J front driveshafts would help and threadlock for screws

[@hoptag]

Do you recommend glueing the tires?

[@ajayplaha6073]

I am also constantly having to change the parts and I have the exact same problem as you and constantly spending lots of money to fix it and I have cheaper cars that do not break. I am very disappointed

[@meatheadfpv5348]

mines a big bag of scrap i just spent another 280 pojnds on hop ups and the drive shaft lost so many and snapped a fair few i only use mine on grass no jumping i wouldnt ever buy HPI again

[@mrtuppy5358]

It's unfortunate that these things happen, but all the advertising for the cars show them being pushed to their limits, including jumping upwards of 4ft.

[@meatheadfpv5348]

ive ordered complete ally set shocks arms and some cvd drive shafts really wishing these will stay in the truck and im now running 5.5T 4 pole brushless motor but only 2s as i think 3s is way to much on these hpi parts

[@dirtbikeboy66]

I have a 2016 version hpi bullet mt flux (same truck with a different body and tires) i run into the same issues all the time. carriers and control arms are constantly breaking.i changed all that crap to aluminum and then started blowing the differential pinion and ring gears gears apart. And also started to snap the dogbones. So i then changed the control arms back to plastic and started losing dog bones. The parts are very hard to find in stores because hpi does not sell in canada. It takes at lease a month for the hobbie shops to get parts ordered in for me. It has now been 3 months waiting for front ring gears and have not been able to drive it at all. Hpi sucks in my opinion. Dont ever buy a bullet.

[@chris-ip4pk]

You need cvd joints,I don't run dogbones on any car,there all crap