HTS DRILLING at 900 rpm is UNREAL (you need to see this)

[@paul5683]

Most anyone that has ever done any machining realizes that setups usually take a lot longer than the actual job.

[@halheavyduty]

So true. So so true

[@jamesoliver6625]

Used to do bespoke woodworking. Quite often 90% of the work was building the jigs and fixtures to hold the work or guide the tool. Actually making the cuts was nothin'

[@ryanbeard1119]

Manual programming?

[@Convolutedtubules]

Reducing setup time is key to productivity. The goal is to setup machines to run complex parts efficiently and safely.

[@Jordan-sy7my]

You don't even have to machine. "Measure twice, cut once" expresses your feelings and is used in carpentry.. which doesn't care about too much under 1/16th. Maybe 1/32 for some that don't realize they're transmachinist.

[@a-fl-man640]

i think they accidentally sold you a tunnel boring machine. unbelievable, liked and subscribed

[@halheavyduty]

Haha I know right. When I first saw that thing… I was deadset thinking “you can’t be serious” (having had zero trepanning experience at that point. Now… I love our little tunnel borer 🤣 Thanks for subscribing too. Really appreciate it

[@willgallatin2802]

Chatter is usually from a harmonic in the material. Try a 100-120 RPM change each direction to see which gives the better result. Some insert tooling hates to be run conservatively, others protest being run hard. Keep the feed rate the same for that test. If there is zero change, keep the RPM and slightly vary the feed rate +/- 5%. One of these will generally give a result leading to a good finish and less tool wear.

[@halheavyduty]

That’s a great tip. Definitely will do for the next drilling run. Appreciate the comment mate.

[@livergen]

Yes...!

[@YuckFoutube-e1z]

My guess is that a slight increase in feed rate would help in this regard. Only a guess.

[@rom14141]

As stated above. I've also had success with various methods of detuning, depending on the setup. One of the easiest methods was wrapping a strip of bicycle tire inner tube around the material where it's not being chucked up and or on the drill. I've found most detuned dimpled drill bars work ok, but the rubber seems to give better results. Combining it with the advice above might help. I've also heard some claim the pressure of the coolant can impart harmonics, so maybe back the coolant flow down so it's just enough. Good luck!

[@halheavyduty]

I've started putting rubber inside the large pins before we thread them now, and it bloody works a charm. Really appreciate the suggestion.

[@craigspicer4296]

Its great to see Australian manufacturing and like the presentation.

[@halheavyduty]

Thank you for the kind feedback. Appreciate it Craig

[@networkedperson]

@@halheavyduty 4:50 you should present this kind of flashing light with an epilepsy warning, but better yet just don't include it at all.

[@halheavyduty]

I rewatched it and nearly had a fit.

[@stuwilliams9458]

The tool you have is perfect for the low flow coolant volume and pressure your machine has. The large chips only have to evacuate past the head, and will not get stuck in the smaller diameter past the head I have read the comments, and many suggest guide pads, but this would require an expensive upgrade to a large powerful coolant system and possibly an STS drilling setup, both of which are way more expensive than the option you chose.. I spent half my career manufacturing deep hole drills, and the second half designing them. This was good stuff, and I really believe you have the best tool for the application and restraints you face. And no, I didn't work for Kennametal, so it's not a sales pitch.

[@halheavyduty]

Thanks for the insightful comment. So far we are really happy with the drill. Does a great job and seems quite suited to the machine setup we have.

[@keithapps]

About 50 years ago I worked for a company making shock absorbers for the US space industry, we used an Oerlikon system that had 2 tubes, the coolant came up between the tubes and the swarf was carried down the central tube, we had a huge coolant tank linked to car radiators to keep the coolant cool, the finish in the bored tube was like it had been honed.

[@halheavyduty]

Dude that sounds wild. It’s so interesting the custom solutions that are out there. Thanks for sharing!

[@alex-E7WHU]

I used a similar set up in the Netherlands, boring a 71mm hole through the central shaft for those big wind turbines.

[@mythai9593]

They're called ejector drills, done some crazy deep holes in Inconel at ridiculous speeds. Make sure your coolant tanks big enough though 😊

[@achilleaustin]

I run an old oerlikon dm6 lathe at work, thing is an absolute unit. Didn’t expect to see that name here

[@BinaryBlueBull]

@@mythai9593 Thank you for mentioning the name! It enabled me to go look for some explanation and illustration. I'm not a machinist though absolutely fascinated by all things metalworking but I hadn't encountered this kind of drill before. Very cool, quite an ingenious design

[@johnsjunkyard]

"My only goal... is to either be learning or sharing what I've learned, there's no ego here" A (very slight) paraphrasing I grant you, but those words alone got you a like and a sub and are awesome words to keep in mind through life in general.

[@halheavyduty]

Thanks mate! Appreciate it. I’m acutely aware of how many skilled machinists there are out there, and blown away by how many have been willing to offer really useful advice on the channel already. The goal is growth 💯👊

[@johnsjunkyard]

@@halheavyduty Absolutely mate, It's always good to see people coming together, spreading knowledge and ideas. And much easier in an open and honest environment. Credit to ya bud.

[@halheavyduty]

Thanks man. I’m really grateful that so many clearly experienced people have been willing to offer solid advice. I love reading the comments after videos. It’s genuinely my favourite part of having the channel. As a machinist I’m welded to a CNC, so being able to chat to people freely on a topic I enjoy is really refreshing. Helps me grow too.

[@weldmachine]

I like your humble approach to what you show in your videos. Hopefully, this will keep the negative element that is common on social media to a minimum. The vibration you noticed with the Drill is fairly common especially with this amount of tool engagement. It's like you mentioned. It's a Roughing tool much like a U Drill. I wouldn't be too concerned about the vibration, just as long as you don't start picking up any chatter, which will start eating through Inserts almost as quickly as you went through this material 👍

[@halheavyduty]

That’s great advice brother. Yeah, most of the experienced machinists I talk to hold a similar opinion. Appreciate the feedback. I’m just here to learn, and share what I’ve learned. Ego is definitely the enemy, and I’m glad it shows on the channel. Major focus will be long form. I’ll pop the occasional short, but I find long form far more enjoyable

[@micdiva]

That's pretty nuts. That thing is a monster

[@halheavyduty]

It’s a bloody weapon. So much fun to run 💯

[@rogerrascal8632]

if vibration and squealing is present the normal rule is to slow the RPM down.This has worked for me using a 25mm WC series carbide-tipped U drill into 4140. Thanks for the video, impressive drill bit.

[@danhillman4523]

Generally speaking, yes. We have even used rubber bands, sometimes on the tool and sometimes on the workpiece. His feed looks good, but we all know that tool mfgs always overstate their tool's capabilities. The shank looks thin to me and could set up the vibration. I always used sandvik drills for large bores.

[@halheavyduty]

Great tip! I totally agree. For the first run we were sticking to the manufactures specs, but in my experience they tend to overstate how fast / hard a tool should run. Will be slowing it down and upping the feed next run. Thanks again for the comment brother

[@SlowReactionDriversAreTheWorst]

If the chips is not turning to a brown or darker color like blue, than the RPM is fine.

[@danhillman4523]

@@SlowReactionDriversAreTheWorst As always, it's the combination of the two. I'd try both a slightly lower RPM and slightly higher feed. If it was too hot you'd see steam. There was none. I gotta say it's a nice drill, though. Makes a nice finish as far as I could tell.

[@halheavyduty]

Cheers mate. Thanks everyone for all the input too. It’s really helpful.

[@j81851]

People like you and videos like these are relevant, interesting and definitely educational. A sad thing has occurred since your company started 60 years ago. A lot of our world has gotten incredibly dumber. Just routine no specials. No challenges. First video of yours I was hooked. Out side the box, uniquely modified or shop created tools. No blah blah blah bland stuff. Exciting and adventurous to achieve bigger, better faster, largest, first of, you get it. That intrigues me and drew me right in. You have a pleasant and very peaceful demeanor, you are incredibly humble and honest and are a humble learner wanting to improve your craft, make customers and your own life easier. These are traits that are so profoundly scarce today. Where others accept "dumb down" you refuse to live a blah blah ho hum life. You push the limits and go for excellence in the process as well as the product, That is the key my friend that made the industrial revolution! Look at some of the old lathes and machines from the 30's and 40's. Your quest for excellence reminds me of those old machines I worked on 40+ years ago. Computers are great for what they are for but creativity like yours comes out of that computer between your ears. That is in truth where innovation really begins. Stay at that you will stand out in your profession if you keep steady dong so! I know I am bubbling over here but this channel, you, your work ethic and your quest for excellence has got me fired up. Keep it coming I am now subscribed and will be a regular!!!

[@halheavyduty]

Thank you for the great feedback mate. I really appreciate it. I’m still learning, and the channel has been really helpful for ME. All the great suggestions and insightful comments. Food to help me improve. Looking forward to seeing your comments on future videos!

[@thisisreallife5086]

@j81851 - What a great comment! You got me fired-up! Innovate, experiment, strive to find a better answer. This is how I've been successful in my careers. Love it! Ever considered running for President? Gimme your name, I'll write you in today.😉

[@medic875]

Always nice to see someone working outside of the box. I have some customers that could use this technique to help their process. Cheers!

[@halheavyduty]

Most welcome. Glad it was useful

[@bryans5150]

Thanks much for your efforts to produce and provide the content. I found your channel today, however bittersweet. I was able to recondition a Sheldon lathe and a Bridgeport that survived on a ww2 battleship. I watched every machining vids I could find. Truly loved making chips again and getting paid. I have a hard time watching now that machines and all tooling were stolen..Truly devastating. Thanks again Sir.

[@halheavyduty]

Ah man that sucks! Sorry to hear.

[@MWL4466]

Nice job ! Yes as a previous comment said, experimenting up or down with the rpm usually fixes things for me. Hard to believe but sometimes a difference of 50 rpm makes a huge improvment. Cheers from Canada.🍻

[@halheavyduty]

We’ve been playing with it since… and it turns out that 500rpm @ 0.13-0.15 is the sweet spot. No vibration, chips novelty and the finish is spot on. Agreed 100% re rpm. Just gotta play with it a bit sometimes

[@renetr6771]

Iam really impressed. I never used one of these. The surface is way better than i had expected.

[@halheavyduty]

I’ve gotta admit I was impressed with the finish too. Considering there was a marginal amount of vibration, the finish was pretty damn good. Thanks for the comment mate

[@kutzbill]

The only way I've ever been able to control chatter is to increase the feed a little. Mind you I'm really old, and most of mt work has been done in the Aerospace industry. I went through my Tool and Die makers apprenticeship course over 30 years ago. Most of my work was done afterward was done with Stainless, Aluminium, Titanium, and Inconel types steel. Looks like a real timesaver, and leaves a beautiful finish. Great job.

[@halheavyduty]

That's good to know! Yeah, we ended up dropping the RPM to about 500 and feed to 0.13 and it runs quiet as a mouse. Bloody fantastic little tool to run. Gets used very regularly now.

[@captjim007]

.006 thou per rev divide two teeth is .003 per flute. Ran a radial arm drill with a 7 1/2 " spade drill thru 1215 steel two feet deep. It shook the floor and the chips churning out the top sounded like pieces of flat bar when they hit the floor. We had a 120" Bullard VTL. One RPM was 30 feet per minute at the outside of the chuck.

[@halheavyduty]

Nice one! Thanks for sharing mate. Jesus a 7 1/2” spade drill is bloody massive. Carving off Doritos with that bad boy 🤣

[@captjim007]

@@halheavyduty It was back in 1992 when I was an apprentice. I was so lucky to work with over 100 highly skilled machinists. They have all since retired. Now I have become the old guy in a shop full of younger machinists. I think about all those guys everyday. I have seen so much advancement in machining technology in the last 35 years. From manual machines to where 5 axis machines are now common place.

[@halheavyduty]

It’s how it happens hey. You must have a one heck of a skill set good Sir. Glad you’re part of the channel 💯👊

[@beshkodiak]

Just a home shop machinist, but my “hobby” also sometimes requires deep drilling. This demo is beautiful! Might have to retire my spade bits. Back in the day i had a drill press that had 50 inch throw and was 9 feet tall. Those twist drills where monstrous!

[@halheavyduty]

Holy wow that’s a bloody big bit of gear! Yeah the HTS DRILLS are awesome. Def worth the investment for us. Cut machining time down by 90%!

[@jamesrichter4611]

I have run long bores at times and used a few Owings down the length of the bar to disapait some if not all the vibration...trybit and hope it helps!

[@halheavyduty]

Great suggestion. Thank you!

[@michaeltrilck5680]

These HTS KENNAMETAL TOOL need‘s a REAL STRONG machine with a rock solid tool post. If it is not stabil, the drilling resistance increases enormously and you destroy the inserts. I remember , 25 years ago, the old ŠKODA W200 , SK 60 with a 180mm Walter HTS … nice to hear how the heavy chips are falling … but the remaining piece was really dangerous!!! A bit like a boomerang that never comes back…👍👍👍😎 Cheers from other side of the planet!

[@halheavyduty]

That’s good to know man. Sounds like you’ve got some really solid experience with these tools. Appreciate the comment, and definitely agree re toolpost rigidity. We’ve had to upgrade the big lathe to a HD toolpost designed for deep drilling. Far more secure and doesn’t seem to budge. Thankfully. It’s wild to watch a drill like that hit a piece of steel held by a 200kg chuck spinning at 900 rpm.

[@einundsiebenziger5488]

This tool needs* (third person, no apostrophe!) / It is not stable* ...

[@michaeltrilck5680]

@@einundsiebenziger5488 Danke für die Berichtigung! Mein Englisch ist LEIDER nicht gut genug… Ihres ist wohl besser…

[@Dagonius.]

That sounded great considering the tool length. The chips looked good, too. And the spot drill in the tool tip didn't have any colour changes either, so I would say you did a great job! I would find it interesting to know which feed you had going. Looked something like 0.4mm/rev to me, which would be quite alot for the spot drill I think. Ok for one part but maybe not for a series. I'd be careful with adding the coolant on tools already engaged for more than a second, because they could get a shock and break. Would you consider adding feed info in future vids?

[@halheavyduty]

Thanks for the great comment. For sure. I’m actually going to start putting the feeds on the screen in the vids. The feed in this one was 0.15mm/rev @900rpm. It runs better slightly less rpm and higher feed. 0.16-0.17

[@Dagonius.]

@@halheavyduty Your welcome! Great idea! Thanks for the info! Take care!

[@halheavyduty]

Most welcome 👊👍

[@GavinFreedomLover]

Your sub count is going to rocket very soon , GREAT CHANNEL !! Love from England.

[@halheavyduty]

Thanks for the encouragement mate. Glad people seem to be enjoying the content.

[@GavinFreedomLover]

@@halheavyduty yes mate it's too drawer cheers.

[@wk7060]

Used to run the big U drill that you show at the end, daily on 42-48 Rockwell stock! Made many chips with them drills. Done most of it on an old WWII turret lathe, some on a Mori Seiki SL-65.

[@halheavyduty]

That lathe would be a weapon. Some of the old school gear is phenomenally well built. We have an old Russian lathe that has a bed that seems hardened by some forgotten ungodly process. 50 years old and still not a mark on it

[@VetvsWorld]

Very impressive. This from me being entertained, not that I any experience whatsoever machining. Even, worth a sub. ✊🏻

[@halheavyduty]

Thanks for the sub mate. Appreciate the kind feedback as well. I really enjoy what I do, so it's nice to know that others get a kick out of it too!

[@jimsvideos7201]

I imagine that tool was an investment, but it _works._

[@halheavyduty]

Totally worth it. Not cheap, but pays for itself day one in all reality. And much better for the machine. Spindle load drops from 85% plus on a spade drill to 54% with the HTS.

[@tireballastserviceofflorid7771]

Reduced spindle load saves money every second. And replaceable inserts are the cheapest way to do anything. You get the exact tool angles for each type of metal. Used a handful of old style bit like that. Saved countless hours of boaring bar time.

[@mythai9593]

I've always put a centre in first when running spade drills, horizontal or vertical its always worked for me. Nice work 👍

[@halheavyduty]

Yeah same for sure with spade drills. I tried it without a centre first once… lesson learned 🤣

[@4e616d65]

The surface finish you get is about what we get using the HTP drills, like you said we use it for roughing so finish isn't a big concern. If you want great finish you have to try the KSEM Plus line. Once you get them dialed in you can expect some VERY smooth surfaces.

[@halheavyduty]

I’ve heard really good reviews about those KSEM drills. Good to know! Cheers mate!

[@jlalbee]

Super cool stuff. I love to see how fine manufacturing really happens.

[@halheavyduty]

Cheers mate!

[@thefirstcalled]

Looking forward to enjoying your channel!

[@halheavyduty]

Thanks mate! Glad to have you on board 👊✌️

[@andypandy9931]

Looks very good. There is a KZbin channel you might be interested in called David Wilks. He seemed to stop posting video's now but they are still there. He showed the most amazing trepanning operations I would have never believed possible in some very difficult materials using home made tools on old conventional lathes. If you haven't seen them it's worth viewing.

[@halheavyduty]

I’ve heard great things and am definitely going to go watch all his stuff. Thanks for the recommendation mate

[@glennbrown1961]

Epic videos but unfortunately his business closed and all his tooling was sold 3 years ago. His videos are still there for all to see though!

[@perceive8159]

There's a combination of reasons why a vibration pattern is occurring. #1 The Insert head design itself. There's basically no side support behind the cutting inserts with that head design. It's not designed for achieving a truly good finish. For instance, Sandovik, Iscar heads for large holes have none cutting-edge support carbide inserts behind the cutting inserts, this produces a very good finsh, how many are determined on the bore diameter, larger the bore more support is needed [ centering insert provides no support ] These cushion inserts behave like a follow rest on a manual lathe turning thin shafts, without it"""!😉 Bar deflection is basically the enemy here. If the bar was 12" long your results would be completely different than one 39" inches long. You could experiment with altering spindle speeds during cutting, this changes the harmonic frequency which shows itself as a repeated pattern. Changing the speeds on the fly breaks this repeated pattern. You could get a better designed insert supported head or make a brass clamping slip ring that is able to pass the chips but slightly smaller than the ID, to give the bar support behind the cutting inserts. I was a machinist many years working for a shop that did deep hole drilling, up to 15' feet 1/2 to 8" bores. We had 2 sandovik deep hole boring attachments. When drilling say 4140/4340 the bores were like a mirror finish! Cutter head design with support is the key to bore finish, if thats what you looking for. It boils down to how much money and ingenuity you want to devote to the process 😊

[@halheavyduty]

Dude what a comment! Thank you so much for that. You clearly know your stuff, and I’m really grateful for your input. Love it.

[@spankeyfish]

Try strapping something rubbery around the shaft of the drill to absorb the vibration. Maybe one of the vibration damping sheet materials that are available.

[@halheavyduty]

That’s a great suggestion. A few people have commented similarly so I’m definite going to try something along that line. Thanks for the suggestion. Appreciate it 👊

[@bobmac9070]

Yes it takes time to set up. And lots of HP and torque to drill large diameter holes. And lots of coolant pressure to flush chip out! I sold them for a major carbide company some years back. Drilled a hole 3” in diameter into 718 Inconel. No one else could even do it.

[@halheavyduty]

That’s wild! I’ve never machined inconel, but from videos I’ve seen it looks bloody tough

[@bobmac9070]

@@halheavyduty oh that’s nothing compared to Hastalloy, or Rene 100 or pure Tungsten! I’ve done most them. They’re steels for aircraft, military, and aerospace or nuclear.

[@halheavyduty]

Fark! Pure tungsten would be insane to machine! What kind of tips do you use for that? Ceramic??

[@bobmac9070]

@@halheavyduty Nope actually just a very good grade of carbide usually a nano-grain structure with a 10 % cobalt factor at about 150-200 SFPM.

[@halheavyduty]

Fascinating!

[@scudinthemud]

I noticed a delay before the coolant started. When I had a program that did that it shocked the carbide insert and reduced the lifespan.

[@halheavyduty]

Well spotted. That was totally my doing in this case. I just wanted to see how the chips came out to be totally honest. We usually have coolant pumping from the get go.

[@Jay9999]

HTS drills always make that same loud sound. When the drill is silent, that means the drill is jamming up with chips. Clamping a steady rest on the drill shank with plastic pads, can help with vibration.

[@halheavyduty]

Great advice. Good to know! Thank you 👊 Appreciate the comment Jay

[@Jay9999]

@@halheavyduty 👊👊

[@rctama55]

Yes Sir that was truly Awsome !!!!

[@halheavyduty]

Cheers mate!

[@einundsiebenziger5488]

... awesome*

[@Zertrebender]

I've ran a couple of these drills verry often and some noise is normal, i don't know if I saw it correctly but you've seem to have gotten the double Trigon holders, there are also finishing holders with one square at the edge and they produce a lot better surface. But it depends on the machine, I've felt like they need a lot of Torque and feed to stay relatively quiet and get a good finish. I've normally ran mine at about 280m/min with ≈ 0.18-0.25 f/rev in similar steels. But they need a lot of experimentation hence they perform very different depending on your machine rigidity and Tourqe

[@halheavyduty]

Brother, thanks a lot for that comment. It’s really helpful. I’m going to jot all that down and play with speed and feeds next time I do a batch run.

[@robdixon945]

Thanks for the show guys 🍻

[@halheavyduty]

Most welcome! Cheers mate 🍻

[@Siege0787]

It won't be much but i'd be trying to shorten up/rigidise that indicator setup and maybe using a test indicator rather than a dial to reduce the weight. I bet you're getting more sag with that much stick-out than you think. A tiny starting divot with a centre drill couldn't hurt either. I've been trying out a new Multi Function drill on the first job on our brand new ST30-Y and already had to re-align the turret after I pushed it too hard so that was fun 😆

[@halheavyduty]

That’s excellent advice, and I’ll definitely try it. Thank you!

[@구지면흑탄두]

A great video! When working on the outer diameter cross section before drill work Even though I went to the smallest diameter point, the point remains at the center of the material. This means that the height of the tool insert wire is low, and to solve this problem If you cut and add sandpaper under the tool, it will be solved. It's not a fundamental solution, but if it's a chronic problem, such as the aging of the machine In the long run, the results will not be bad if you respond like this.

[@halheavyduty]

Excellent advice - thank you!

[@WhenlWasYourAge]

I would suggest you run coolant before you touch the material if you started drilling and switch it on while in the material the drill can get damaged and the inserts can crack/break. Had that happen to me

[@halheavyduty]

We generally do as a rule… it was just for the video sake. Thanks for the comment! Yeah, I made the mistake of running coolant like that on a ceramic tip once. Lesson learned 😩

[@TheWidgetWorks]

I've never had much luck with these drill as far as getting a decent finish in the hole in the last 20 years, anything without guide pads isn't going to leave a great finish. The one thing that you can do to shut it up is take a decent size C-clamp (like a 200mm/8" or bigger one) and clamp it on the shank part way down to the head. That will dampen it and you can just move the clamp as needed and then you only have to listen to it for the last little bit or if the shank is long enough you can just leave it on. Don't know the physics behind it, something to do with stress, but it works so I just call it magic.

[@halheavyduty]

That’s very interesting. I’m going to try it just to see! Thanks for the tip. Yeah, we just use them as a roughing tool. Finish can be a bit hit and miss from my experience. Maybe it’s just because we do 4140… or maybe it’s operator related… but I find we’re not the only ones with this issue.

[@theoldstationhand]

yeah, if it has a flat or two on the shank a big shifter does a similar thing.

[@halheavyduty]

👊👍

[@fearlyenrage]

​@@halheavydutyinfo. The clamp kills the frequency because it rises the diameter of the rod. Imagine when you hit a 1cm 2m rod the vibrations will travel with ease trough the thin rod but when you hammer a 10cm rod the vibration has to pass trough a lot more material and engage with a lot more mass. So you can rise artifical the diameter the vibrations have to pass. The vibration is buildup from the cutting edge and it starts when the chip breaks of to wiggle. As longer and thicker the boring bar gets the dull the frequency gets what results in less sound. There are machines made with counteracustic parts. They send out a soundwave the overlays a messured frequency onthefly and then give out a counter the soundwave to lower the singing. I dont remember the producer.

[@georgearcher1921]

My experience with that is when the center drill gets dulled down, the vibration will go away. I ran a 5.7” Komet drill in a Trevisan with S225 F1.08” and every time we changed the center drill it would vibrate until it got the sharp edge worn in.

[@halheavyduty]

That’s really good to know. Thanks so much for sharing. Cheers George.

[@7thplanet121]

Try an ejector drill it burnishes the bore as it drills and uses a high pressure pump to clear the swarf. The holes were over a meter and a half deep and 30mm diameter

[@halheavyduty]

Hey thanks a bunch for that suggestion. I’d never come across those before. Just took a quick glance and they look bloody useful. Have you had much experience with running them?? Most of our drilling is 4-5 diameter, so Udrills / HTS seem to cover it pretty well. Those ejector drills look brilliant though. I like the concept of the chips coming out the inside. I imagine they’re a pretty rigid setup.

[@jeffreylord8172]

When you faced the piece, there was a sharp peak left in the face center, this would suggest your cutter was slightly below center, . Would this have caused the drill to be slightly off when it started, causing noise and possibly chatter.

[@halheavyduty]

I noticed that too. I’ll be running it again this week and seeing if it makes a difference. Well picked up 👊 I actually think I just need to increase the feed. Test and learn… That’s the game 👍👊

[@_Error_404_Goodbye]

Thanks for burning the cash on the tool and sharing with us 😎🍻

[@halheavyduty]

Most welcome! Best little investment we’ve made in ages. Paid for itself day one 🤣

[@andyvan5692]

wow, great chip maker, I am only an amateur, but your vibration issue could be just the stick out of the tool, so perhaps a steady rest (an automatic one), which swings away once the bit is a few inches in the cut, aka like the other tools in a cnc machine, just adding this step to the programming. Also as an extra step, adding a smaller drilled hole in the end, like for a tail centre may ease the outer cutters in, being centred by a pre existing starter hole for the centre bit.

[@halheavyduty]

We are going to try putting a few heavy duty rubber bands on the shank and see if it helps. And increase the feed a little. A few people who have run the a lot have suggested it, so let’s see. Great suggestion by the way. Appreciate the comment brother 👊

[@jonchristiannybakke7036]

You should make a shorter arm for your indicator when measuring the runout, and thread it in the senter off the bolt in the chuch. The long arm and the magnet can give you a false reading when handing upside down

[@halheavyduty]

Thanks for that brother. You’re not the first to mention that, and I suspect you’re dead right. Will be getting a more fixed arm style indicator stand for this purpose. Appreciate the comment mate 💯

[@brandonodwyer4691]

Wow! That was impressive.

[@halheavyduty]

Cheers mate! 👊

[@NightRunner417]

Man... I'll tell ya, he's not wrong. I _did_ need to see this. Makes me feel like a catastrophic failure of the machine would be breathtaking although probably it would just be a single loud snap. Very cool, fascinating to watch. Thank you. 🙂

[@halheavyduty]

Most welcome. Glad you enjoyed it mate. Fingers crossed I don’t have to post an epic FAIL video sometime in the future 🤣🙏

[@NightRunner417]

@@halheavyduty Loved it, and your work is beautiful. I should have gone into machining as a career path because I really do find it fascinating and the ability to create omg... I'm very active in plastics 3d printing but I long for the ability to work in metal. Have you had something like this break on you? Is it spectacular or does it just kind of pop and stop?

[@halheavyduty]

I’ve got three Udrills stuck in my career (so far…) There were sparks those days 😜

[@tedzehnder961]

Drills like this are amazing when the cutting edge and the cutting conditions go smoothly.Close watch, usually using the "load meter" built into the CNC equipment, is important or a drill body can get wiped out in a hurry.These drills aren`t cheap, not like the cost of a everyday twist drill.

[@halheavyduty]

I agree! My eyes are pretty much welded to the spindle load meter when it’s running. Not keen for a bingle with this one.

[@tedzehnder961]

@@halheavyduty Better your eyes welded to the load meter than the drill welded to the work piece.

[@halheavyduty]

💯👊

[@haroldhenderson2824]

I was pleasantly surprised the inserts didn't shatter as the coolant started flowing. You must have started the flow before they hit metal. Possibly add some weighted rings to the shank of that bar. Change the frequency it vibrates at. Not in the middle, not 1/3 + 2/3 either.

[@halheavyduty]

Excellent suggestion. We actually added two rubber rings to the bar yesterday. Huge difference in performance. Similar to your recommendation , at 1/3 & 2/3 roughly along the shank.

[@jagracershoestring609]

Impressive tool. In the good old days of Defence work, we used to bore out Bomber Aircraft under carriage legs and hydraulic cylinders with deep hole boring hollow spade drills with high pressure chip removal up the centre of the tool, up to six feet deep. The worst materials were LM25 annealed aluminium castings, and a secret material called Maraging Steel, which was difficult to chip, and clogged up tools in strings. I could never access the material spec. to find a better method. I trained as a Mill Wright/ toolmaker, so used to make the tooling as well sometimes. LM 25 could be awful to machine, as castings and forgings were inconsistent in texture.

[@halheavyduty]

Yeah wow! I’m pretty grateful that we largely machine 4140 steel. It’s a dream material really. Chips easily and no clogging. 6 ft with a spade drill is wild!

[@steelerdude1967]

Here in the states I work for a company that does parts for the mining industry. Recently did 4340 rollers that was 15” long 17” diameter with a 4.625 hole thru. Wonder how well something like that would work? 1 pass thru or multiple passes. Nice videos you have !

[@halheavyduty]

That’s some heavy duty machining! Love it. The HTS drills come in sizes up to 8” (I think) so if your machine has the grunt, you could get a 4.5” drill, and then do a single cleanup pass with a good solid boring bar. Would save heaps of time. Thanks for the great feedback too. Much appreciated. Where in the USA are located mate?

[@steelerdude1967]

@@halheavyduty It’s an older Mazak powermaster. I believe length of bed is 12’ . 4 position turret. I don’t run it but other guy does. I operate a Mazak Fjv vertical. But yeah 1 rough pass then a finish cut be perfect. Tolerance is + -.002 for the bore, then a bushing gets pressed in for the pin. I’m located in Ohio

[@halheavyduty]

Nice. Mazak make about the best quality machines money can buy. Never been to Ohio, but it’s on the list for sure. Love the USA. It’s like a world within a country. So bloody much to see and do. And it’s all so different coast to coast

[@nickking8317]

Love the jib crane set up might need one for my shop when it's built 😜

[@halheavyduty]

Def recommend. I couldn’t do my work without it! Every lathe and mill (the big ones at least) have their own crane 👍

[@toddhaines5245]

Try a dynamic rpm if possible avoids a vibration building. The change should stop any harmonic resonance.

[@halheavyduty]

Excellent idea. Thank you!

[@butchphillips873]

Commenting not just for the algorithm, but for the tool. Thats a nice bit of gear. I'm enjoying the vidios. If you could show some of the finished product and a bit of explanation of how its used would be nice. Cheers, Butch. ps, no pressure.

[@halheavyduty]

Most certainly can do in the future Butch. That’s a great suggestion.

[@ronaldgarlandjr.3957]

You could try wrapping the bar with some inner tube or rubber bands. That would cut down on harmonic distortion.

[@halheavyduty]

Great suggestion. A few people have recommended that - definitely going to try it next batch. Cheers Ronald 👊

[@ypaulbrown]

Good Day Matt...best wishes from Florida, USA, Paul

[@halheavyduty]

Cheers Paul! Hope you’re well brother. Bro I’m pretty sure you were the very first comment on the channel. Really appreciate the support dude

[@xuejiaoxu6778]

Great video thanks for posting

[@halheavyduty]

Thanks for tuning in mate, and for the great feedback!

[@johnnywakefield7948]

Reminds me of sleeves for torque jars or rotator index tools

[@halheavyduty]

💯

[@tj9382]

We love watching a big drill. So 900 rpm, but what feed rate please?

[@halheavyduty]

Feed rate in the video was 0.15 although I think it might need to run a little harder. From the comments I can see other machinists tend to lower rpm & increase feed rate to make to cut better.

[@jonchilds1637]

I’m not sure why everyone finds this so surprising. I started in precision 45 years ago - right at the birth of CNC in the UK and we were using Seco drills at 1400 1800rpm and 20 thou per rev. feed in EN8 then. The chip stream was an avalanche!! At 17, I was just as awestruck as people seem to be by this today.

[@halheavyduty]

I think for us machinists, we sometimes forget just how impressive even the most basic thing actually are. These HTS drills are nothing new, but when someone who hasn’t been around them sees it, it’s mind blowing. Awestruck is the perfect description too. Cheers Jon

[@edsmachine93]

That's unbelievable Matt. Very impressive, thanks for sharing. Good job.👍👍

[@halheavyduty]

Thanks for the feedback mate. Really appreciate it.

[@bigbattenberg]

hmm yes that's an instant sub. i'm in Holland CAM programming and running large work. Cheers.

[@halheavyduty]

Nice one! I’d love to visit Holland one day. What kind of large work do you do??

[@bigbattenberg]

@@halheavyduty Check out Sanders Gears and Castings.

[@halheavyduty]

Wow man. Around since 1846 and one of the oldest manufacturers in the Netherlands. Looks like they do some big stuff brother. Very very cool indeed.

[@bigbattenberg]

Here's a little tip for you: trepanning. I am looking to implement it in our company. Sandvik has a line up to 110 mm diameter. It looks that when you want to go larger you have to make you own. I have been inspired by David Wilks, binge watch the channel and you will know everything it takes.

[@jeffbruce9589]

the squealing noise is due to shank being a lot smaller than the drill head , so the torque is trying to wind up over the long length of the tool , i doubt you would be able to stop it without the shank being a lot bigger , this would reduce the swarf space and negate one of he positives of the design . You could try adding a split ring around the shank as a damper to test the theory while the drill is not too deep , if the changes the freq of the tone then that may prove it.

[@halheavyduty]

Makes sense! Thanks for that Jeff. Appreciate it.

[@grahamkeegan2706]

nice to see a little bit of proper machining instead of wire-wool turning. 👍 I've used drills like this quite a lot and if the machine has the HP i'd consider loading it a bit more per RPM - maybe 0.2 possibly with a slight drop in RPM - should give comparable cycle times. I really wonder just how rigid the toolpost arrangement is though if im honest. Vibration dampening can sometimes be done by wrapping a bicycle inner tube tightly down the shank and securing it with a couple of jubilee-clips (or hose clips or whatever you call them). This is how i've reduced the resonance in the past. Sometimes it works, sometimes not. Same thing also works with smaller boring bars and elastic bands.

[@halheavyduty]

I’m definitely going to try that to dampen vibration. Thanks for the tip. The toolposts are actually a custom heavy duty design, modified from original Dixon toolposts. So far they seem to hold really well, but we did have some issues with the big lathe originally, as it didn’t come with the HD option funnily enough. Meeeega problems with it wanting to rotate.

[@buckotte1414]

Maybe in bigger tooling like this video shows, an extra finishing cutter and thus cut could be used to finish the diameter by say, .010 inch on the outstroke. Probably a 'mirror smooth' result. This cutter would 'pop-out' on the return stroke as an additional tool head on the tool shown working here.

[@halheavyduty]

Interesting idea. It wouldn’t surprise me if something like this exists. Fortunately for us, the finish it gives is more than good enough - most of our stuff ends up getting put down a hole anyway 🤣

[@DomManInT1]

Used to do a lot of this when I worked for Baker Hughes.

[@halheavyduty]

👊

[@ruperterskin2117]

Cool. Thanks for sharing.

[@halheavyduty]

Most welcome! Thanks for tuning in.

[@robertlevine2152]

I am not a machinist. I am an engineer. In watching the video I noticed the long unsupported length of the drill and wondered about vibration. Is it possible to use two steady rests on the drill shaft, one just behind the drill as close as possible to the chuck? The second could be placed at the middle of the drill of the drill shaft. Remove the midpoint steady rest when appropriate. There is a possibility that harmonics could create vibrations. The drill and lathe manufacturers should be able to provide assistance.

[@halheavyduty]

Always good to have an engineers perspective. Appreciate the comment brother. I’ve had a few people mention ideas around rpm & feed changes, which make sense - and also putting some heavy rubber bands on the shank to eliminate potential harmonics. Also going in slowly on the feed for the first 10mm until it centres… then cranking it up to full speed. Will be fun to play around with it when I have a larger production run in the future. Again, thanks for commenting. Will be interesting to see what actually works best. Half the fun of machining is getting to fiddle with it all.

[@WhoFartedSeriously]

Great video, mate! She’s a beast!

[@halheavyduty]

Cheers mate.

[@peterskey8155]

Hi Matt, where are you guys baced. Love your videos 🎉

[@halheavyduty]

Cheers Peter. We are based in Rockhampton (Qld)

[@BobJury-lf6bb]

I drill rifle barrels with gundrills 2500 rpm 1” a minute up to 33” long. From .195” to .5”

[@halheavyduty]

Awesome! We have a 16mm gun drill that came with the small CNC. I haven’t had a chance to run it yet. Any tips? I really want to give it a go.

[@rosewhite---]

WOW! Super work.

[@halheavyduty]

Thank you

[@Quokka57]

LoL @ "Man, some of the stuff these guys break will blow your mind". Having been a Geo on both down-the-hole hammer & wire-line diamond core rigs (as well as a part-time driller myself) , nothing really surprises me. Reminds me of "A Man can screw a pig, but it takes a Driller to screw it to death" 😮 They can be a tad heavy handed, hey? Particularly if they're on metreage. Loved seeing your HTS drill rip into that big lump of 4140. That thing was making chips as fast a 10" tungsten button bit hammer drill 👍

[@halheavyduty]

Haha. I hadn't heard the pig saying before. Accurate though. The stuff they break just boggles my mind. Like literally UNBREAKABLE gear... broken within a week. But... that's why I'm here. The f&*k it. We fix it.

[@Quokka57]

​@@halheavydutyActually, I stole that from somewhere else. The original had 'Marine' instead of 'Driller', and the f-bomb instead of 'screw' But i think it still fits 😎

[@Quokka57]

...and yep. Fix F&*k Repeat 🤣

[@halheavyduty]

💯🤣

[@douglasrizzo9210]

Sometimes, giving the drill a soft start, say, go about 10mm deep at 1/2 the feed, then accelerate to full feed. Same for exiting the part.

[@halheavyduty]

I totally agree. That’s what I usually do for Udrills but the manufacturer suggested against it. I’m going to add your suggestion into the future trials. I have a feeling it’ll help it locate, much like I’ve found with Udrills. Thanks for the suggestion mate. Appreciate it

[@DDYTFJB-wy9fb]

Impressive! Thank you.

[@halheavyduty]

Cheers mate. Thanks for tuning in.

[@paulperrin2152]

Wrap a old v pulley belt around shaft it will reduce vibration greatly

[@halheavyduty]

Really? Interesting idea. I’ll try that. Thanks man!

[@paulperrin2152]

@halheavyduty i was doing that before those super drills come on the market, alot of the skills i learnt in my time as a engineer have be lost , as there never taught , i was a manual machinist as a young man and learnt from 2 old timers , 50 years ago ,my last job in engineering i was maching hydraulic cylinders and rods cylinders 3 m diameter 12 m long 12 tons, and the rods were 500mm uptp 745mm,

[@halheavyduty]

I totally hear you re lost knowledge. I’ve got solid hope that there is a real reawakening of interest in engineering and machining. It’s not taught or encouraged enough in school (certainly wasn’t for me) but I think a positive side effect of visual media is that people (particularly young) can now SEE what’s possible. Those cylinders sound insane to machine. Where are you based Paul??

[@paulperrin2152]

@@halheavyduty west yorkshire england, my home town had massive engineering companies, in the space of 25 years 20,000 engineering jobs have gone😢,

[@halheavyduty]

It’s really tragic how the ‘leaders’ of the western world practically handed the foundational bedrock of our prosperity offshore. Same here in Australia. We were once a mini industrial powerhouse… now we’re just a big sandpit that sells raw materials. That said… my job is to repair the rigs that dig the sandpit. So silver linings do exist. I do see a renewed interest in hands on professions in young men especially… so subtly hopeful for the future.

[@Mokkisjeva]

I run these drills all the time, have a Ø78 400mm long permanently in the magazine as my default drill. I can tell you, they stop making noise when the chips don't get out. So noise = good.

[@halheavyduty]

That’s really good to know! Thank you very much for sharing. What kind of work do you do??

[@Precisionmetalworks]

You'll get better process reliability if you spot with a stubby tool. Reduce rpm by 50% at entry (until you're at full dia.) and during breakthru. This will cut squealing and prolong tool life substantially. Great videos!

[@halheavyduty]

Thanks for the tip mate. Much appreciated

[@garychaiken808]

Great job. Thank you 😊

[@halheavyduty]

Most welcome. Thanks for tuning in Gary 👊

[@Raul28153]

That's some high speed removal. How much does it drift off-center over the length of the bore?

[@halheavyduty]

That one ran pretty well dead on thanks to the pilot drill in the center. Really happy with how it performs

[@TramJizzle]

That is really impressive 👍👍

[@halheavyduty]

Thank you. It’s a really useful tool to use.

[@Yusa9204]

Question: What is the hardness of the 4140 steel?

[@halheavyduty]

Typical hardness of 4140 steel is about 28-32 HRC(Rockwell C scale) at room temperature.

[@0dbm]

Historical The best man has ever done

[@halheavyduty]

🤣✌️

[@ralphpavero7760]

Just found the Chanel that is an amazing drill

[@halheavyduty]

Cheers Ralph. Thanks for tuning in brother 👊

[@siegfriedbuehler4558]

before you face and drill first op spot drill

[@boffwozere]

When I was an apprentice machinist we were always told that if there was vibration or chattering on the tool or the workpiece to drop the rpm in 50 rpm increments, that however was 50 years ago so I’m guessing there has been Huge advances in tools so that could be bum advice 😂

[@halheavyduty]

It’s actually still great advice. It’s my first go-to move. Incrementally drop rpm. Thanks for sharing good Sir!

[@johnmorgan1677]

Love the comment "No Ego here" great attitude.

[@halheavyduty]

💯🙏

[@thedolphin5428]

Why no centering pilot to start, maybe to tool depth, or even an initial dimple. That might have reduced the vibrations.

[@halheavyduty]

The first run was according to manufacturer recommendations, who suggested we don’t put a center. After some trial and error… we do put one there now. Runs much better. Well spotted.

[@thedolphin5428]

@@halheavyduty Lol. Mate, I'm old enough and cynical enough to have learned through hard experience that "Manufacturer's Recommendations" are not always the best way to go about things in one's own particular situation ! I'm only a little amateur mechanic, but I would never drill a big hole without centreing the tool in a little hole, at least to get started. Commonsense. And I'll bet you thought of that first but got overruled by "those who think they know". ☺️ Anyways, I'll let you get back to work. You sure spend a lot of kindly time answering EVERY COMMENT. Cheers.

[@halheavyduty]

Cheers mate. Yep… I’m 100% with you when it comes to skepticism on manufacturer recommendations- especially when they make money as a result of breakage 🤣 I was secretly hoping that the pilot would work to save me the extra time, but it def works better pre drilled. Yeah, I really enjoy the comments chat. So many very experienced people subbed to the channel, and I honestly get so many good ideas as a result of chatting. I’m always open to ways to get better, and VERY aware that the way I’ve been shown isn’t necessarily the best way 🤣

[@richardmills5450]

I like to see to setups. So keep em cuming. We dont have any this type of engineering in the UK. We are purely a service industry to be honest. Cheers matey. Fabulous channel.

[@halheavyduty]

Thanks Richard, appreciate the great feedback mate. Glad you enjoyed it!

[@matttradie1341]

Interesting. First of your vids ive watched. Does that lathe have a tailstock? Looks like a sheetload of pressure to be putting through a quickchange toolpost and cross-slide. Id suspect thats where your vibration source could be.

[@halheavyduty]

We’ve since fixed the vibration, thankfully! It’s a pretty rigid lathe, so the problem was the toolpost, which we have modified for HD drilling. Works a treat now. Thanks for the comment too. It’s really helpful getting everyone’s thoughts.

[@The_Vaporizer]

I'm not sure but it seemed like a lot of chips came out at the end, is that the max coolant flow?

[@halheavyduty]

The Udrills seem to do that too. I think it just clears out the swarf remaining in the bore as it retracts.

[@billshiff2060]

I think I'd wrap the shank with solder wire and cover that with something to keep it tight to act as a damper.

[@halheavyduty]

Excellent suggestion. We did that soon after the video and it doesn’t vibrate at all now. Really grateful for all the helpful comments we receive on the videos. Cheers my friend 👊👍

[@wendull811]

I might need to talk to my tool coordinator and get me one. Do the make a 3inch diameter version? We drill big holes usally 14 to 25 inches deep.

[@halheavyduty]

One of the viewers here (Gary) send me a photo of his drill in the same style. It’s a monster at 180mm (from the photo it’s what I can gather) So approx 7” We are probably going to get a larger set in the future. Excellent for deep drilling.

[@halheavyduty]

One of the viewers here (Gary) send me a photo of his drill in the same style. It’s a monster at 180mm (from the photo it’s what I can gather) So approx 7” We are probably going to get a larger set in the future. Excellent for deep drilling.

[@martinswiney2192]

As a 39 year machinist that refuses to own or operate CNC equipment I gotta say thats badass. It would literally take me 5 hours to do that with twist drills on my WW2 vintage LeBlond lathe. Not including lunch.

[@halheavyduty]

Cheers mate! I hear you man… I’ve wound many a HSS drill in by hand an every time we run this bad boy now I just think faaaark… thank you for giving me back 2 hours of my life Thanks for commenting 👊

[@wilde.coyote6618]

Flood coolant always helps.

[@rcdogmanduh4440]

It's when LeBlond made great machines. CNC is for girls! Just kidding. Best to learn manual maching then move on to the green button!

[@halheavyduty]

Haha. Totally agree re starting on manual machining first. Makes a more rounded machinist for sure.

[@stevemaynardsmith4726]

What is the coolant you are using?

[@halheavyduty]

It’s called Holemaker. I’m not totally sure if it’s even intended as a CNC coolant, but it seems to work just fine. We get great life out of carbide and it has excellent rust prevention properties- which is super important considering the nature of our work.

[@autisiens]

Awesome 👍

[@halheavyduty]

Cheers mate

[@ronidaffan5904]

Does not this kind of long tool require a pivot drilling first ? To make sure it starts drilling at the center. Just asking.

[@halheavyduty]

It has a little pilot bit inbuilt - so as long as it’s dialled in it self-pilots. It’s been working great so far. A few initial issues to iron out, but great once we figured out the correct speeds & feeds. Excellent question by the way 👍

[@James-zw4mt]

reduce your revs or increase your feed to get rid of the vibration

[@halheavyduty]

That’s the plan. A few others with experience on this specific tool have said the same thing. Really appreciate the advice. Will be doing another run with it in coming weeks, so have a bunch of goes to get the setting just right.