HTS DRILLING at 900 rpm is UNREAL (you need to see this)

In this video we test run the new Kennametal HTS drill in the big CNC at 900 rpm.
Considering the chucks weigh nearly 200kg each… and it's a dual chuck machine… I'm spinning about half a ton of steel at high speed.
But… heavy duty calls - and that hole ain't gonna drill itself.
Learned a bunch in this video, and looking forward to all the machinist with way more experience than me with this particular tool share their insights in the comments. A little bit of vibration and a slight squeal, but overall a very nice result and no loud bangs.
Thanks for tuning in!
#australianmachinist
#machinistlife
#drilling
#machineshoplife
#kennametal

[@a-fl-man640]

i think they accidentally sold you a tunnel boring machine. unbelievable, liked and subscribed

[@halheavyduty]

Haha I know right. When I first saw that thing… I was deadset thinking “you can’t be serious” (having had zero trepanning experience at that point. Now… I love our little tunnel borer 🤣 Thanks for subscribing too. Really appreciate it

[@paul5683]

Most anyone that has ever done any machining realizes that setups usually take a lot longer than the actual job.

[@halheavyduty]

So true. So so true

[@jamesoliver6625]

Used to do bespoke woodworking. Quite often 90% of the work was building the jigs and fixtures to hold the work or guide the tool. Actually making the cuts was nothin'

[@ryanbeard1119]

Manual programming?

[@Convolutedtubules]

Reducing setup time is key to productivity. The goal is to setup machines to run complex parts efficiently and safely.

[@Jordan-sy7my]

You don't even have to machine. "Measure twice, cut once" expresses your feelings and is used in carpentry.. which doesn't care about too much under 1/16th. Maybe 1/32 for some that don't realize they're transmachinist.

[@willgallatin2802]

Chatter is usually from a harmonic in the material. Try a 100-120 RPM change each direction to see which gives the better result. Some insert tooling hates to be run conservatively, others protest being run hard. Keep the feed rate the same for that test. If there is zero change, keep the RPM and slightly vary the feed rate +/- 5%. One of these will generally give a result leading to a good finish and less tool wear.

[@halheavyduty]

That’s a great tip. Definitely will do for the next drilling run. Appreciate the comment mate.

[@livergen]

Yes...!

[@YuckFoutube-e1z]

My guess is that a slight increase in feed rate would help in this regard. Only a guess.

[@rom14141]

As stated above. I've also had success with various methods of detuning, depending on the setup. One of the easiest methods was wrapping a strip of bicycle tire inner tube around the material where it's not being chucked up and or on the drill. I've found most detuned dimpled drill bars work ok, but the rubber seems to give better results. Combining it with the advice above might help. I've also heard some claim the pressure of the coolant can impart harmonics, so maybe back the coolant flow down so it's just enough. Good luck!

[@halheavyduty]

I've started putting rubber inside the large pins before we thread them now, and it bloody works a charm. Really appreciate the suggestion.

[@renetr6771]

Iam really impressed. I never used one of these. The surface is way better than i had expected.

[@halheavyduty]

I’ve gotta admit I was impressed with the finish too. Considering there was a marginal amount of vibration, the finish was pretty damn good. Thanks for the comment mate

[@robdixon945]

Thanks for the show guys 🍻

[@halheavyduty]

Most welcome! Cheers mate 🍻

[@TheWidgetWorks]

I've never had much luck with these drill as far as getting a decent finish in the hole in the last 20 years, anything without guide pads isn't going to leave a great finish. The one thing that you can do to shut it up is take a decent size C-clamp (like a 200mm/8" or bigger one) and clamp it on the shank part way down to the head. That will dampen it and you can just move the clamp as needed and then you only have to listen to it for the last little bit or if the shank is long enough you can just leave it on. Don't know the physics behind it, something to do with stress, but it works so I just call it magic.

[@halheavyduty]

That’s very interesting. I’m going to try it just to see! Thanks for the tip. Yeah, we just use them as a roughing tool. Finish can be a bit hit and miss from my experience. Maybe it’s just because we do 4140… or maybe it’s operator related… but I find we’re not the only ones with this issue.

[@theoldstationhand]

yeah, if it has a flat or two on the shank a big shifter does a similar thing.

[@halheavyduty]

👊👍

[@fearlyenrage]

​@@halheavydutyinfo. The clamp kills the frequency because it rises the diameter of the rod. Imagine when you hit a 1cm 2m rod the vibrations will travel with ease trough the thin rod but when you hammer a 10cm rod the vibration has to pass trough a lot more material and engage with a lot more mass. So you can rise artifical the diameter the vibrations have to pass. The vibration is buildup from the cutting edge and it starts when the chip breaks of to wiggle. As longer and thicker the boring bar gets the dull the frequency gets what results in less sound. There are machines made with counteracustic parts. They send out a soundwave the overlays a messured frequency onthefly and then give out a counter the soundwave to lower the singing. I dont remember the producer.

[@weldmachine]

I like your humble approach to what you show in your videos. Hopefully, this will keep the negative element that is common on social media to a minimum. The vibration you noticed with the Drill is fairly common especially with this amount of tool engagement. It's like you mentioned. It's a Roughing tool much like a U Drill. I wouldn't be too concerned about the vibration, just as long as you don't start picking up any chatter, which will start eating through Inserts almost as quickly as you went through this material 👍

[@halheavyduty]

That’s great advice brother. Yeah, most of the experienced machinists I talk to hold a similar opinion. Appreciate the feedback. I’m just here to learn, and share what I’ve learned. Ego is definitely the enemy, and I’m glad it shows on the channel. Major focus will be long form. I’ll pop the occasional short, but I find long form far more enjoyable

[@johnnywakefield7948]

Reminds me of sleeves for torque jars or rotator index tools

[@halheavyduty]

💯

[@johnsjunkyard]

"My only goal... is to either be learning or sharing what I've learned, there's no ego here" A (very slight) paraphrasing I grant you, but those words alone got you a like and a sub and are awesome words to keep in mind through life in general.

[@halheavyduty]

Thanks mate! Appreciate it. I’m acutely aware of how many skilled machinists there are out there, and blown away by how many have been willing to offer really useful advice on the channel already. The goal is growth 💯👊

[@johnsjunkyard]

@@halheavyduty Absolutely mate, It's always good to see people coming together, spreading knowledge and ideas. And much easier in an open and honest environment. Credit to ya bud.

[@halheavyduty]

Thanks man. I’m really grateful that so many clearly experienced people have been willing to offer solid advice. I love reading the comments after videos. It’s genuinely my favourite part of having the channel. As a machinist I’m welded to a CNC, so being able to chat to people freely on a topic I enjoy is really refreshing. Helps me grow too.

[@jamesrichter4611]

I have run long bores at times and used a few Owings down the length of the bar to disapait some if not all the vibration...trybit and hope it helps!

[@halheavyduty]

Great suggestion. Thank you!

[@andypandy9931]

Looks very good. There is a KZbin channel you might be interested in called David Wilks. He seemed to stop posting video's now but they are still there. He showed the most amazing trepanning operations I would have never believed possible in some very difficult materials using home made tools on old conventional lathes. If you haven't seen them it's worth viewing.

[@halheavyduty]

I’ve heard great things and am definitely going to go watch all his stuff. Thanks for the recommendation mate

[@glennbrown1961]

Epic videos but unfortunately his business closed and all his tooling was sold 3 years ago. His videos are still there for all to see though!

[@craigspicer4296]

Its great to see Australian manufacturing and like the presentation.

[@halheavyduty]

Thank you for the kind feedback. Appreciate it Craig

[@networkedperson]

@@halheavyduty 4:50 you should present this kind of flashing light with an epilepsy warning, but better yet just don't include it at all.

[@halheavyduty]

I rewatched it and nearly had a fit.

[@DomManInT1]

Used to do a lot of this when I worked for Baker Hughes.

[@halheavyduty]

👊

[@jimsvideos7201]

I imagine that tool was an investment, but it _works._

[@halheavyduty]

Totally worth it. Not cheap, but pays for itself day one in all reality. And much better for the machine. Spindle load drops from 85% plus on a spade drill to 54% with the HTS.

[@tireballastserviceofflorid7771]

Reduced spindle load saves money every second. And replaceable inserts are the cheapest way to do anything. You get the exact tool angles for each type of metal. Used a handful of old style bit like that. Saved countless hours of boaring bar time.

[@xuejiaoxu6778]

Great video thanks for posting

[@halheavyduty]

Thanks for tuning in mate, and for the great feedback!

[@richardmills5450]

I like to see to setups. So keep em cuming. We dont have any this type of engineering in the UK. We are purely a service industry to be honest. Cheers matey. Fabulous channel.

[@halheavyduty]

Thanks Richard, appreciate the great feedback mate. Glad you enjoyed it!

[@ironworkerfxr7105]

OMG you ground up the pink panther 🎉

[@halheavyduty]

This wins comment of the week 💯 🤣

[@TramJizzle]

That is really impressive 👍👍

[@halheavyduty]

Thank you. It’s a really useful tool to use.

[@toddhaines5245]

Try a dynamic rpm if possible avoids a vibration building. The change should stop any harmonic resonance.

[@halheavyduty]

Excellent idea. Thank you!

[@micdiva]

That's pretty nuts. That thing is a monster

[@halheavyduty]

It’s a bloody weapon. So much fun to run 💯

[@stuwilliams9458]

The tool you have is perfect for the low flow coolant volume and pressure your machine has. The large chips only have to evacuate past the head, and will not get stuck in the smaller diameter past the head I have read the comments, and many suggest guide pads, but this would require an expensive upgrade to a large powerful coolant system and possibly an STS drilling setup, both of which are way more expensive than the option you chose.. I spent half my career manufacturing deep hole drills, and the second half designing them. This was good stuff, and I really believe you have the best tool for the application and restraints you face. And no, I didn't work for Kennametal, so it's not a sales pitch.

[@halheavyduty]

Thanks for the insightful comment. So far we are really happy with the drill. Does a great job and seems quite suited to the machine setup we have.

[@Michal_Sobierajski]

Mmm raspberry milkshake coolant - my favorite ❤

[@halheavyduty]

Haha. The Pink Panther special 💯

[@Dagonius.]

That sounded great considering the tool length. The chips looked good, too. And the spot drill in the tool tip didn't have any colour changes either, so I would say you did a great job! I would find it interesting to know which feed you had going. Looked something like 0.4mm/rev to me, which would be quite alot for the spot drill I think. Ok for one part but maybe not for a series. I'd be careful with adding the coolant on tools already engaged for more than a second, because they could get a shock and break. Would you consider adding feed info in future vids?

[@halheavyduty]

Thanks for the great comment. For sure. I’m actually going to start putting the feeds on the screen in the vids. The feed in this one was 0.15mm/rev @900rpm. It runs better slightly less rpm and higher feed. 0.16-0.17

[@Dagonius.]

@@halheavyduty Your welcome! Great idea! Thanks for the info! Take care!

[@halheavyduty]

Most welcome 👊👍

[@billshiff2060]

I think I'd wrap the shank with solder wire and cover that with something to keep it tight to act as a damper.

[@halheavyduty]

Excellent suggestion. We did that soon after the video and it doesn’t vibrate at all now. Really grateful for all the helpful comments we receive on the videos. Cheers my friend 👊👍

[@bahadersingh8880]

Good job 👍

[@halheavyduty]

Cheers mate 👊

[@perceive8159]

There's a combination of reasons why a vibration pattern is occurring. #1 The Insert head design itself. There's basically no side support behind the cutting inserts with that head design. It's not designed for achieving a truly good finish. For instance, Sandovik, Iscar heads for large holes have none cutting-edge support carbide inserts behind the cutting inserts, this produces a very good finsh, how many are determined on the bore diameter, larger the bore more support is needed [ centering insert provides no support ] These cushion inserts behave like a follow rest on a manual lathe turning thin shafts, without it"""!😉 Bar deflection is basically the enemy here. If the bar was 12" long your results would be completely different than one 39" inches long. You could experiment with altering spindle speeds during cutting, this changes the harmonic frequency which shows itself as a repeated pattern. Changing the speeds on the fly breaks this repeated pattern. You could get a better designed insert supported head or make a brass clamping slip ring that is able to pass the chips but slightly smaller than the ID, to give the bar support behind the cutting inserts. I was a machinist many years working for a shop that did deep hole drilling, up to 15' feet 1/2 to 8" bores. We had 2 sandovik deep hole boring attachments. When drilling say 4140/4340 the bores were like a mirror finish! Cutter head design with support is the key to bore finish, if thats what you looking for. It boils down to how much money and ingenuity you want to devote to the process 😊

[@halheavyduty]

Dude what a comment! Thank you so much for that. You clearly know your stuff, and I’m really grateful for your input. Love it.

[@geertje75]

i would reduce the feed the feed for the first 5-10 mm with 50% and then go full force

[@halheavyduty]

Great tip. We have it currently at F0.05 for 7mm, then we send it. RPM is constant at 750-900 Still playing with it. I suspect I might need to feed harder if possible though?

[@VetvsWorld]

Very impressive. This from me being entertained, not that I any experience whatsoever machining. Even, worth a sub. ✊🏻

[@halheavyduty]

Thanks for the sub mate. Appreciate the kind feedback as well. I really enjoy what I do, so it's nice to know that others get a kick out of it too!

[@keithapps]

About 50 years ago I worked for a company making shock absorbers for the US space industry, we used an Oerlikon system that had 2 tubes, the coolant came up between the tubes and the swarf was carried down the central tube, we had a huge coolant tank linked to car radiators to keep the coolant cool, the finish in the bored tube was like it had been honed.

[@halheavyduty]

Dude that sounds wild. It’s so interesting the custom solutions that are out there. Thanks for sharing!

[@alex-E7WHU]

I used a similar set up in the Netherlands, boring a 71mm hole through the central shaft for those big wind turbines.

[@mythai9593]

They're called ejector drills, done some crazy deep holes in Inconel at ridiculous speeds. Make sure your coolant tanks big enough though 😊

[@achilleaustin]

I run an old oerlikon dm6 lathe at work, thing is an absolute unit. Didn’t expect to see that name here

[@BinaryBlueBull]

@@mythai9593 Thank you for mentioning the name! It enabled me to go look for some explanation and illustration. I'm not a machinist though absolutely fascinated by all things metalworking but I hadn't encountered this kind of drill before. Very cool, quite an ingenious design

[@jimbardin7938]

Cimcool Cimstar 40B Pink Coolant from Cincinnati Milacron.

[@halheavyduty]

I haven't heard of that one? Would you recommend it? Ours is called Holemaker. It's a fairly generic cutting fluid from ITM

[@jeffreylord8172]

When you faced the piece, there was a sharp peak left in the face center, this would suggest your cutter was slightly below center, . Would this have caused the drill to be slightly off when it started, causing noise and possibly chatter.

[@halheavyduty]

I noticed that too. I’ll be running it again this week and seeing if it makes a difference. Well picked up 👊 I actually think I just need to increase the feed. Test and learn… That’s the game 👍👊

[@bambuli1907]

Hello, I cam from Germany. WYH on hell you use this inserts????? LMNX11 or LMNX16 from Iscar and smile................... Doc up to 16mm !!!!!!!!!!! I do this and smile without adds from Iscar!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Even Tungaloy .........................

[@halheavyduty]

Hey brother, thanks for the recommendation. I’ll check it out. Do you have any ideas for a heavy external turning tool?? I have enough power for 6-8mm DOC on the current lathe (I think) Appreciate the comment. What kind of work do you do??

[@Raul28153]

That's some high speed removal. How much does it drift off-center over the length of the bore?

[@halheavyduty]

That one ran pretty well dead on thanks to the pilot drill in the center. Really happy with how it performs

[@michaeltrilck5680]

These HTS KENNAMETAL TOOL need‘s a REAL STRONG machine with a rock solid tool post. If it is not stabil, the drilling resistance increases enormously and you destroy the inserts. I remember , 25 years ago, the old ŠKODA W200 , SK 60 with a 180mm Walter HTS … nice to hear how the heavy chips are falling … but the remaining piece was really dangerous!!! A bit like a boomerang that never comes back…👍👍👍😎 Cheers from other side of the planet!

[@halheavyduty]

That’s good to know man. Sounds like you’ve got some really solid experience with these tools. Appreciate the comment, and definitely agree re toolpost rigidity. We’ve had to upgrade the big lathe to a HD toolpost designed for deep drilling. Far more secure and doesn’t seem to budge. Thankfully. It’s wild to watch a drill like that hit a piece of steel held by a 200kg chuck spinning at 900 rpm.

[@einundsiebenziger5488]

This tool needs* (third person, no apostrophe!) / It is not stable* ...

[@michaeltrilck5680]

@@einundsiebenziger5488 Danke für die Berichtigung! Mein Englisch ist LEIDER nicht gut genug… Ihres ist wohl besser…

[@DomManInT1]

You might cut down on the "singing" chatter by running the drill slightly above centerline. My calculation was 509 on the RPM. Tool salesmen will always tell you faster numbers.

[@halheavyduty]

Thanks for the suggestion mate! Appreciate it. Yep. I agree re speeds. I think 500 rpm will be what we keep it at for everyday use.

[@alessandrofranchi4241]

I have used this tool several times in the past. Kennametal is the market leader in the drilling sector

[@halheavyduty]

At this point I totally agree. I haven’t tried them all, but Kennamental remains my pick for drilling.

[@alessandrofranchi4241]

I have tried several drilling tools from Kennametal. The series with interchangeable head is extremely performing, (but high cost for head and resharpening). The drill-fix series with a square external insert doesn't excite me. Efficient, but noisy. Excellent solid carbide tips, the extra long series (30xD++) is impressive

[@halheavyduty]

That’s good to know. Until we get a more high performing modern CNC (ie Doosan, DMG etc with a turret) I won’t attempt the solid carbide drills. They look awesome, but I just know we don’t have the precision… yet Goals haha. Man, thanks for the comment and sharing your experience. Really appreciate it.

[@alessandrofranchi4241]

Solid carbide drills are very efficient tools, but require chucks with low run out and stable machines. The refrigerant pressure is very important. I work on a boring machine (Kbn 135 C), when I encounter pieces with risk of vibration I prefer to use hss tools

[@halheavyduty]

Wise move. If we had a more high end CNC I’d definitely look at solid carbide drills. From what I can see they are awesome

[@rogerrascal8632]

if vibration and squealing is present the normal rule is to slow the RPM down.This has worked for me using a 25mm WC series carbide-tipped U drill into 4140. Thanks for the video, impressive drill bit.

[@danhillman4523]

Generally speaking, yes. We have even used rubber bands, sometimes on the tool and sometimes on the workpiece. His feed looks good, but we all know that tool mfgs always overstate their tool's capabilities. The shank looks thin to me and could set up the vibration. I always used sandvik drills for large bores.

[@halheavyduty]

Great tip! I totally agree. For the first run we were sticking to the manufactures specs, but in my experience they tend to overstate how fast / hard a tool should run. Will be slowing it down and upping the feed next run. Thanks again for the comment brother

[@SlowReactionDriversAreTheWorst]

If the chips is not turning to a brown or darker color like blue, than the RPM is fine.

[@danhillman4523]

@@SlowReactionDriversAreTheWorst As always, it's the combination of the two. I'd try both a slightly lower RPM and slightly higher feed. If it was too hot you'd see steam. There was none. I gotta say it's a nice drill, though. Makes a nice finish as far as I could tell.

[@halheavyduty]

Cheers mate. Thanks everyone for all the input too. It’s really helpful.

[@Siege0787]

It won't be much but i'd be trying to shorten up/rigidise that indicator setup and maybe using a test indicator rather than a dial to reduce the weight. I bet you're getting more sag with that much stick-out than you think. A tiny starting divot with a centre drill couldn't hurt either. I've been trying out a new Multi Function drill on the first job on our brand new ST30-Y and already had to re-align the turret after I pushed it too hard so that was fun 😆

[@halheavyduty]

That’s excellent advice, and I’ll definitely try it. Thank you!

[@paulperrin2152]

Wrap a old v pulley belt around shaft it will reduce vibration greatly

[@halheavyduty]

Really? Interesting idea. I’ll try that. Thanks man!

[@paulperrin2152]

@halheavyduty i was doing that before those super drills come on the market, alot of the skills i learnt in my time as a engineer have be lost , as there never taught , i was a manual machinist as a young man and learnt from 2 old timers , 50 years ago ,my last job in engineering i was maching hydraulic cylinders and rods cylinders 3 m diameter 12 m long 12 tons, and the rods were 500mm uptp 745mm,

[@halheavyduty]

I totally hear you re lost knowledge. I’ve got solid hope that there is a real reawakening of interest in engineering and machining. It’s not taught or encouraged enough in school (certainly wasn’t for me) but I think a positive side effect of visual media is that people (particularly young) can now SEE what’s possible. Those cylinders sound insane to machine. Where are you based Paul??

[@paulperrin2152]

@@halheavyduty west yorkshire england, my home town had massive engineering companies, in the space of 25 years 20,000 engineering jobs have gone😢,

[@halheavyduty]

It’s really tragic how the ‘leaders’ of the western world practically handed the foundational bedrock of our prosperity offshore. Same here in Australia. We were once a mini industrial powerhouse… now we’re just a big sandpit that sells raw materials. That said… my job is to repair the rigs that dig the sandpit. So silver linings do exist. I do see a renewed interest in hands on professions in young men especially… so subtly hopeful for the future.

[@GavinFreedomLover]

Your sub count is going to rocket very soon , GREAT CHANNEL !! Love from England.

[@halheavyduty]

Thanks for the encouragement mate. Glad people seem to be enjoying the content.

[@GavinFreedomLover]

@@halheavyduty yes mate it's too drawer cheers.

[@kutzbill]

The only way I've ever been able to control chatter is to increase the feed a little. Mind you I'm really old, and most of mt work has been done in the Aerospace industry. I went through my Tool and Die makers apprenticeship course over 30 years ago. Most of my work was done afterward was done with Stainless, Aluminium, Titanium, and Inconel types steel. Looks like a real timesaver, and leaves a beautiful finish. Great job.

[@halheavyduty]

That's good to know! Yeah, we ended up dropping the RPM to about 500 and feed to 0.13 and it runs quiet as a mouse. Bloody fantastic little tool to run. Gets used very regularly now.

[@BobJury-lf6bb]

I drill rifle barrels with gundrills 2500 rpm 1” a minute up to 33” long. From .195” to .5”

[@halheavyduty]

Awesome! We have a 16mm gun drill that came with the small CNC. I haven’t had a chance to run it yet. Any tips? I really want to give it a go.

[@stevemaynardsmith4726]

What is the coolant you are using?

[@halheavyduty]

It’s called Holemaker. I’m not totally sure if it’s even intended as a CNC coolant, but it seems to work just fine. We get great life out of carbide and it has excellent rust prevention properties- which is super important considering the nature of our work.

[@The_Vaporizer]

I'm not sure but it seemed like a lot of chips came out at the end, is that the max coolant flow?

[@halheavyduty]

The Udrills seem to do that too. I think it just clears out the swarf remaining in the bore as it retracts.

[@haroldhenderson2824]

I was pleasantly surprised the inserts didn't shatter as the coolant started flowing. You must have started the flow before they hit metal. Possibly add some weighted rings to the shank of that bar. Change the frequency it vibrates at. Not in the middle, not 1/3 + 2/3 either.

[@halheavyduty]

Excellent suggestion. We actually added two rubber rings to the bar yesterday. Huge difference in performance. Similar to your recommendation , at 1/3 & 2/3 roughly along the shank.

[@Nathan-vq9ch]

Use the coolant straight away & 5% increase feed, nice drilling

[@mikeroberts9476]

I agree. If you start the coolant before the inserts are engaged, you will extend insert life even further. I appreciate you didn't want it spraying all over and maybe that's why you started once the tool was in the hole. Anyway, nice video and I'm glad you've experienced the amazing results the HTS system delivers.

[@halheavyduty]

Will try that for sure. Yeah, we usually run coolant immediately… just turned it off for the video

[@halheavyduty]

Cheers Mike!

[@buckotte1414]

Maybe in bigger tooling like this video shows, an extra finishing cutter and thus cut could be used to finish the diameter by say, .010 inch on the outstroke. Probably a 'mirror smooth' result. This cutter would 'pop-out' on the return stroke as an additional tool head on the tool shown working here.

[@halheavyduty]

Interesting idea. It wouldn’t surprise me if something like this exists. Fortunately for us, the finish it gives is more than good enough - most of our stuff ends up getting put down a hole anyway 🤣

[@MrTooTechnical]

Fuking awesome

[@halheavyduty]

Cheers brother. Appreciate it

[@tj9382]

We love watching a big drill. So 900 rpm, but what feed rate please?

[@halheavyduty]

Feed rate in the video was 0.15 although I think it might need to run a little harder. From the comments I can see other machinists tend to lower rpm & increase feed rate to make to cut better.

[@flyfisher2426]

Still shows the chatter marks. Can't beat boring for a smooth finish though.

[@halheavyduty]

100% agree. We only really use them as a roughing tool to get the bars in there.

[@robertlevine2152]

I am not a machinist. I am an engineer. In watching the video I noticed the long unsupported length of the drill and wondered about vibration. Is it possible to use two steady rests on the drill shaft, one just behind the drill as close as possible to the chuck? The second could be placed at the middle of the drill of the drill shaft. Remove the midpoint steady rest when appropriate. There is a possibility that harmonics could create vibrations. The drill and lathe manufacturers should be able to provide assistance.

[@halheavyduty]

Always good to have an engineers perspective. Appreciate the comment brother. I’ve had a few people mention ideas around rpm & feed changes, which make sense - and also putting some heavy rubber bands on the shank to eliminate potential harmonics. Also going in slowly on the feed for the first 10mm until it centres… then cranking it up to full speed. Will be fun to play around with it when I have a larger production run in the future. Again, thanks for commenting. Will be interesting to see what actually works best. Half the fun of machining is getting to fiddle with it all.

[@discombubulate2256]

vibration, try slowing the feed rate by 5-10% see if that works

[@halheavyduty]

Great advice. We are going to play with some feeds and speeds in a future video, and trial some other suggestions from the comments on this video too.

[@_Jan___]

I would suggest you run coolant before you touch the material if you started drilling and switch it on while in the material the drill can get damaged and the inserts can crack/break. Had that happen to me

[@halheavyduty]

We generally do as a rule… it was just for the video sake. Thanks for the comment! Yeah, I made the mistake of running coolant like that on a ceramic tip once. Lesson learned 😩

[@butchphillips873]

Commenting not just for the algorithm, but for the tool. Thats a nice bit of gear. I'm enjoying the vidios. If you could show some of the finished product and a bit of explanation of how its used would be nice. Cheers, Butch. ps, no pressure.

[@halheavyduty]

Most certainly can do in the future Butch. That’s a great suggestion.

[@Solid3d-Melb]

Thank God it's not in America, otherwise we would have to be dealing in inches

[@halheavyduty]

💯

[@1337fraggzb00N]

Try to contact the guys from "Tiefbohrtechnik" in Germany. They know all about drills and stuff.

[@halheavyduty]

Awesome! I’ll be sure to do that. Thanks a bunch for the recommendation mate. Appreciate it.

[@jamesperotti9869]

Lower the RPM and adjust the feed rate until the tool stops chattering.

[@halheavyduty]

Will give that a crack on the next run of deep drilling jobs for sure. Thanks James 👊

[@j81851]

People like you and videos like these are relevant, interesting and definitely educational. A sad thing has occurred since your company started 60 years ago. A lot of our world has gotten incredibly dumber. Just routine no specials. No challenges. First video of yours I was hooked. Out side the box, uniquely modified or shop created tools. No blah blah blah bland stuff. Exciting and adventurous to achieve bigger, better faster, largest, first of, you get it. That intrigues me and drew me right in. You have a pleasant and very peaceful demeanor, you are incredibly humble and honest and are a humble learner wanting to improve your craft, make customers and your own life easier. These are traits that are so profoundly scarce today. Where others accept "dumb down" you refuse to live a blah blah ho hum life. You push the limits and go for excellence in the process as well as the product, That is the key my friend that made the industrial revolution! Look at some of the old lathes and machines from the 30's and 40's. Your quest for excellence reminds me of those old machines I worked on 40+ years ago. Computers are great for what they are for but creativity like yours comes out of that computer between your ears. That is in truth where innovation really begins. Stay at that you will stand out in your profession if you keep steady dong so! I know I am bubbling over here but this channel, you, your work ethic and your quest for excellence has got me fired up. Keep it coming I am now subscribed and will be a regular!!!

[@halheavyduty]

Thank you for the great feedback mate. I really appreciate it. I’m still learning, and the channel has been really helpful for ME. All the great suggestions and insightful comments. Food to help me improve. Looking forward to seeing your comments on future videos!

[@nickking8317]

Love the jib crane set up might need one for my shop when it's built 😜

[@halheavyduty]

Def recommend. I couldn’t do my work without it! Every lathe and mill (the big ones at least) have their own crane 👍

[@wanderer-bhupinder]

New subscriber from india

[@halheavyduty]

Awesome! Man I love watching videos for India. You guys are the kind of heavy duty l, especially in big lathes.

[@Yusa9204]

Question: What is the hardness of the 4140 steel?

[@halheavyduty]

Typical hardness of 4140 steel is about 28-32 HRC(Rockwell C scale) at room temperature.

[@James-zw4mt]

reduce your revs or increase your feed to get rid of the vibration

[@halheavyduty]

That’s the plan. A few others with experience on this specific tool have said the same thing. Really appreciate the advice. Will be doing another run with it in coming weeks, so have a bunch of goes to get the setting just right.

[@dansacco1964]

Used to run my indicator like that until someone showed me indicator droop. When its upside down it will sag and throw off your measurement by .10-.20mm. Nice drill though. Glad your's makes that horrible noise too.

[@halheavyduty]

Ive heard this from a few in the comments now. Have set up a more rigid holder. Good to know… I had no idea! Haha. Feeling is mutual re squealing. Noisy bloody things… but man do they get the job done fast

[@dansacco1964]

@@halheavydutytry sticking your mag base to a plate and put the indicator tip on the same plate then flip the whole thing upside down. Its shocking how much it moves. Even really stout indicator bases. Coax indicator eliminates this. .2mm probably doesnt bother a drill that big anyway but its good to know about that droop effect.

[@halheavyduty]

I’ll do that. Endlessly curious about all the little nuances of machining. So many little things that can only be gained from experience… and people sharing their experience. Thanks again mate

[@brianjonesg8aso403]

The 8th letter of the alphabet is AITCH, look at the spelling in a dictionary, is is not Haitch.

[@halheavyduty]

Hahaha. Love it. My Texan grandmother agreed with you 💯

[@wendull811]

I might need to talk to my tool coordinator and get me one. Do the make a 3inch diameter version? We drill big holes usally 14 to 25 inches deep.

[@halheavyduty]

One of the viewers here (Gary) send me a photo of his drill in the same style. It’s a monster at 180mm (from the photo it’s what I can gather) So approx 7” We are probably going to get a larger set in the future. Excellent for deep drilling.

[@halheavyduty]

One of the viewers here (Gary) send me a photo of his drill in the same style. It’s a monster at 180mm (from the photo it’s what I can gather) So approx 7” We are probably going to get a larger set in the future. Excellent for deep drilling.

[@steelerdude1967]

Here in the states I work for a company that does parts for the mining industry. Recently did 4340 rollers that was 15” long 17” diameter with a 4.625 hole thru. Wonder how well something like that would work? 1 pass thru or multiple passes. Nice videos you have !

[@halheavyduty]

That’s some heavy duty machining! Love it. The HTS drills come in sizes up to 8” (I think) so if your machine has the grunt, you could get a 4.5” drill, and then do a single cleanup pass with a good solid boring bar. Would save heaps of time. Thanks for the great feedback too. Much appreciated. Where in the USA are located mate?

[@steelerdude1967]

@@halheavyduty It’s an older Mazak powermaster. I believe length of bed is 12’ . 4 position turret. I don’t run it but other guy does. I operate a Mazak Fjv vertical. But yeah 1 rough pass then a finish cut be perfect. Tolerance is + -.002 for the bore, then a bushing gets pressed in for the pin. I’m located in Ohio

[@halheavyduty]

Nice. Mazak make about the best quality machines money can buy. Never been to Ohio, but it’s on the list for sure. Love the USA. It’s like a world within a country. So bloody much to see and do. And it’s all so different coast to coast

[@Jay9999]

HTS drills always make that same loud sound. When the drill is silent, that means the drill is jamming up with chips. Clamping a steady rest on the drill shank with plastic pads, can help with vibration.

[@halheavyduty]

Great advice. Good to know! Thank you 👊 Appreciate the comment Jay

[@Jay9999]

@@halheavyduty 👊👊

[@cogentdynamics]

Wow, very efficient! I’m new to this stuff with my Haas TL-1 and what you did there looked to take a goodly amount of power. Can you estimate how much HP or KW used? Our machine has only a 10hp spindle without a gear reduction box, just a pulley drive at 1800rpm and curious if such a thing would be achievable? I have driven 40mm HSS twist drill in our 5hp manual geared head which will get it done without much trouble but work and time to shove it in the bar. I have never seen something like that. Cool! FWIW, I am not a fan of the “shorts”. I learn and enjoy more of your longer format videos I watch like this one.

[@halheavyduty]

Our machines are 20 & 25 hp - so by no means monster machines as far as CNCs gos. They have good swing & bores, but there are def more powerful on the market. I like the look of the TL1! Seems like a good little machine. We could probably use something that size in the future TBH. You could probably use smaller Udrills on it. The major issue is toolpost rigidity. There is a large amount of z axis force generated. We had to alter ours to run the long drills, but it’s def doable. Thanks for feedback re shorts vs long form too. I don’t post many shorts these days, mostly due to how crazy busy the shop gets. I kinda just started posting them on FB… people liked them and then it led to here. Wild how things evolve.

[@thatdrillguy7889]

A 10hp machine may have trouble running this drill in a high tensile strength material, but there's a couple things to keep in mind: 1) a machine motor is very much like a car engine, it has a peak horsepower and torque meaning you must be running at the optimum RPM in order to get the most torque and power out of the spindle. Sometimes you have to select a cutting tool that is capable in the optimum RPM range. 2) carbide runs faster than HSS. It is capable of maintaining hardness at much higher spindle speeds, but is more brittle, so you must effectively bury the tool in the cut with sufficient chip load 3) indexable drills like the HTS and the Drill Fix PRO from Kennametal are 1 effective cutting edge. Drills like that HSS one or a spade blade, etc are two effective cutting edges which means double the torque requirement All this boils down to: for heavy duty applications, try to run at peak power RPMs and use a 1 effective cutting edge drill to minimize torque load.

[@cogentdynamics]

@@thatdrillguy7889 very helpful. I am dumb! I have seen tools that look like a single insert on one side drill. I am dreaming of something like that which is maybe 12 to 16mm but the same tool could also bore a diameter out as big as 20mm or so. Machine time won’t be too important for me but I would,d like it to be efficient when I am not personally pushing handles. Thank you Mr drill guy I appreciate your input. I might be not so good at finding the comments very well as I am a Luddite also. (At least kind of).

[@thatdrillguy7889]

@@cogentdynamics Quite alright and glad it was helpful. Any indexable drills like the Drill Fix PRO should be able to drill an initial hole then you can offset in x and bore out larger. Something like the Drill Fix PRO can actually do an initial x-offset as well. When you're drilling from solid, move the drill up to .01-.02" off-center in the x+ direction and you'll drill a slightly larger hole. 1) you must have your outboard insert aligned to x+ 2) your MAX depth of cut radially is usually 50% of you outboard insert IC, but you're better off at 30% ish. 3) your MIN depth of cut radially is usually just bigger than the corner radius of the outboard insert A square outboard insert size will be described by the diameter of an imaginary circle that is drawn inside and tangent to all 4 edges (inscribed circle = IC) so a 3/8 IC insert is .375" wide and you can cut up to .160" radial depth of cut, but that is a heavy boring cut. These techniques really help you do more with fewer tools.

[@cogentdynamics]

@@thatdrillguy7889 thank you! Basically like a boring bar that drills. I’ll be shopping!

[@medic875]

Always nice to see someone working outside of the box. I have some customers that could use this technique to help their process. Cheers!

[@halheavyduty]

Most welcome. Glad it was useful

[@damionparson247]

Uh, yeah! Toss away the spade drill here.

[@halheavyduty]

💯 brother This thing has been a game changer for us. It’s old tech, but new for us!

[@captjim007]

.006 thou per rev divide two teeth is .003 per flute. Ran a radial arm drill with a 7 1/2 " spade drill thru 1215 steel two feet deep. It shook the floor and the chips churning out the top sounded like pieces of flat bar when they hit the floor. We had a 120" Bullard VTL. One RPM was 30 feet per minute at the outside of the chuck.

[@halheavyduty]

Nice one! Thanks for sharing mate. Jesus a 7 1/2” spade drill is bloody massive. Carving off Doritos with that bad boy 🤣

[@captjim007]

@@halheavyduty It was back in 1992 when I was an apprentice. I was so lucky to work with over 100 highly skilled machinists. They have all since retired. Now I have become the old guy in a shop full of younger machinists. I think about all those guys everyday. I have seen so much advancement in machining technology in the last 35 years. From manual machines to where 5 axis machines are now common place.

[@halheavyduty]

It’s how it happens hey. You must have a one heck of a skill set good Sir. Glad you’re part of the channel 💯👊

[@mythai9593]

I've always put a centre in first when running spade drills, horizontal or vertical its always worked for me. Nice work 👍

[@halheavyduty]

Yeah same for sure with spade drills. I tried it without a centre first once… lesson learned 🤣

[@ronidaffan5904]

Does not this kind of long tool require a pivot drilling first ? To make sure it starts drilling at the center. Just asking.

[@halheavyduty]

It has a little pilot bit inbuilt - so as long as it’s dialled in it self-pilots. It’s been working great so far. A few initial issues to iron out, but great once we figured out the correct speeds & feeds. Excellent question by the way 👍

[@alireza1340]

Subscribe and BIG like from Al, a lifelong Tool & Die and Machinist guy from Vancouver Canada, good job and great video, keep it up brother

[@halheavyduty]

Love it! Hal was Canadian. The most chilled out humble man… and insanely skilled. Moved to Australia to escape the cold 🤣 Safe to say he achieved that goal

[@MWL4466]

Nice job ! Yes as a previous comment said, experimenting up or down with the rpm usually fixes things for me. Hard to believe but sometimes a difference of 50 rpm makes a huge improvment. Cheers from Canada.🍻

[@halheavyduty]

We’ve been playing with it since… and it turns out that 500rpm @ 0.13-0.15 is the sweet spot. No vibration, chips novelty and the finish is spot on. Agreed 100% re rpm. Just gotta play with it a bit sometimes

[@georgearcher1921]

My experience with that is when the center drill gets dulled down, the vibration will go away. I ran a 5.7” Komet drill in a Trevisan with S225 F1.08” and every time we changed the center drill it would vibrate until it got the sharp edge worn in.

[@halheavyduty]

That’s really good to know. Thanks so much for sharing. Cheers George.

[@grahamkeegan2706]

nice to see a little bit of proper machining instead of wire-wool turning. 👍 I've used drills like this quite a lot and if the machine has the HP i'd consider loading it a bit more per RPM - maybe 0.2 possibly with a slight drop in RPM - should give comparable cycle times. I really wonder just how rigid the toolpost arrangement is though if im honest. Vibration dampening can sometimes be done by wrapping a bicycle inner tube tightly down the shank and securing it with a couple of jubilee-clips (or hose clips or whatever you call them). This is how i've reduced the resonance in the past. Sometimes it works, sometimes not. Same thing also works with smaller boring bars and elastic bands.

[@halheavyduty]

I’m definitely going to try that to dampen vibration. Thanks for the tip. The toolposts are actually a custom heavy duty design, modified from original Dixon toolposts. So far they seem to hold really well, but we did have some issues with the big lathe originally, as it didn’t come with the HD option funnily enough. Meeeega problems with it wanting to rotate.

[@Zertrebender]

I've ran a couple of these drills verry often and some noise is normal, i don't know if I saw it correctly but you've seem to have gotten the double Trigon holders, there are also finishing holders with one square at the edge and they produce a lot better surface. But it depends on the machine, I've felt like they need a lot of Torque and feed to stay relatively quiet and get a good finish. I've normally ran mine at about 280m/min with ≈ 0.18-0.25 f/rev in similar steels. But they need a lot of experimentation hence they perform very different depending on your machine rigidity and Tourqe

[@halheavyduty]

Brother, thanks a lot for that comment. It’s really helpful. I’m going to jot all that down and play with speed and feeds next time I do a batch run.

[@wk7060]

As a 40 year retired machinist, I still love to see metal hogged!

[@halheavyduty]

It’s endlessly fascinating to watch! Man. 40yrs is a great achievement to be in one industry. Well done good Sir 🫡👊

[@andyvan5692]

wow, great chip maker, I am only an amateur, but your vibration issue could be just the stick out of the tool, so perhaps a steady rest (an automatic one), which swings away once the bit is a few inches in the cut, aka like the other tools in a cnc machine, just adding this step to the programming. Also as an extra step, adding a smaller drilled hole in the end, like for a tail centre may ease the outer cutters in, being centred by a pre existing starter hole for the centre bit.

[@halheavyduty]

We are going to try putting a few heavy duty rubber bands on the shank and see if it helps. And increase the feed a little. A few people who have run the a lot have suggested it, so let’s see. Great suggestion by the way. Appreciate the comment brother 👊

[@matttradie1341]

Interesting. First of your vids ive watched. Does that lathe have a tailstock? Looks like a sheetload of pressure to be putting through a quickchange toolpost and cross-slide. Id suspect thats where your vibration source could be.

[@halheavyduty]

We’ve since fixed the vibration, thankfully! It’s a pretty rigid lathe, so the problem was the toolpost, which we have modified for HD drilling. Works a treat now. Thanks for the comment too. It’s really helpful getting everyone’s thoughts.

[@VictorHernandez-nt3tw]

What was the new run time of the HTS drill?

[@halheavyduty]

At optimised speeds (slightly slower than the video) it works out at 4min

[@boffwozere]

When I was an apprentice machinist we were always told that if there was vibration or chattering on the tool or the workpiece to drop the rpm in 50 rpm increments, that however was 50 years ago so I’m guessing there has been Huge advances in tools so that could be bum advice 😂

[@halheavyduty]

It’s actually still great advice. It’s my first go-to move. Incrementally drop rpm. Thanks for sharing good Sir!

[@spankeyfish]

Try strapping something rubbery around the shaft of the drill to absorb the vibration. Maybe one of the vibration damping sheet materials that are available.

[@halheavyduty]

That’s a great suggestion. A few people have commented similarly so I’m definite going to try something along that line. Thanks for the suggestion. Appreciate it 👊

[@wk7060]

Used to run the big U drill that you show at the end, daily on 42-48 Rockwell stock! Made many chips with them drills. Done most of it on an old WWII turret lathe, some on a Mori Seiki SL-65.

[@halheavyduty]

That lathe would be a weapon. Some of the old school gear is phenomenally well built. We have an old Russian lathe that has a bed that seems hardened by some forgotten ungodly process. 50 years old and still not a mark on it

[@jamierussell6051]

Absolutely lovely! MACHINIST FOR TRUMP WWG1WGA 🇺🇸 🇺🇸🇺🇸

[@halheavyduty]

Nearly had lunch with Trump in 2005 when he came to Australia … long before he was in politics. Can’t remember why I didn’t get to it… but I really wish I had. Something tells me that opportunity won’t happen again any time soon 🤣

[@edlooney9625]

Nice constant SFM on the facing.

[@halheavyduty]

Cheers brother!

[@scudinthemud]

I noticed a delay before the coolant started. When I had a program that did that it shocked the carbide insert and reduced the lifespan.

[@halheavyduty]

Well spotted. That was totally my doing in this case. I just wanted to see how the chips came out to be totally honest. We usually have coolant pumping from the get go.

[@jonchristiannybakke7036]

You should make a shorter arm for your indicator when measuring the runout, and thread it in the senter off the bolt in the chuch. The long arm and the magnet can give you a false reading when handing upside down

[@halheavyduty]

Thanks for that brother. You’re not the first to mention that, and I suspect you’re dead right. Will be getting a more fixed arm style indicator stand for this purpose. Appreciate the comment mate 💯

[@robertalkemade989]

sharp

[@halheavyduty]

👌

[@cyclingbutterbean]

Is that Pepto-Bismol you're using for coolant? Wild material removal rate!

[@halheavyduty]

It sure looks like it hey 🤣

[@MRR-qv3bw]

There's nothing little or badboy about it, ITS DEMONIC😈

[@halheavyduty]

It’s a weapon for sure

[@nickvinten7803]

Lawd, that’s some piece of kit, almost chewed it’s way through 😮

[@halheavyduty]

It’s a weapon for sure

[@theoldstationhand]

That was awesome, those chips were insane. Did you finish the facing pass at 1222 rpm? Thanks for sharing. Cheers👍

[@halheavyduty]

The facing pass was at about 550 rpm The drilling cycle was at 900 👍

[@spikeypineapple552]

@@halheavyduty What was your feed per rev?

[@halheavyduty]

Face cuts are 0.25 The drill is 0.15 but I think I need to run harder TBH

[@spikeypineapple552]

@@halheavyduty I wouldn't run much harder than that

[@halheavyduty]

Yeah, I stick to those feeds as a baseline. Never run roughing past 0.35 for outer turning. Finishing tends to be good at 0.25 I’m relatively conservative with how hard I push the gear and keep spindle loads at around 40-50% most of the time too.

[@leonburnett6742]

Put about 5 to 10 heavy duty rubber bands down the shank of the drill.

[@halheavyduty]

That’s such a good practical idea. I’m absolutely going to do that in the next run. Thanks mate 👊

[@ÁREAJ27]

Olá amigo incrivel, e muito satisfatório o trabalho!!! Boa sorte sempre!!!

[@halheavyduty]

Muchas gracias amigo! Dónde vives??

[@Mokkisjeva]

I run these drills all the time, have a Ø78 400mm long permanently in the magazine as my default drill. I can tell you, they stop making noise when the chips don't get out. So noise = good.

[@halheavyduty]

That’s really good to know! Thank you very much for sharing. What kind of work do you do??

[@ralphpavero7760]

Just found the Chanel that is an amazing drill

[@halheavyduty]

Cheers Ralph. Thanks for tuning in brother 👊

[@siegfriedbuehler4558]

before you face and drill first op spot drill

[@fanofhumor9384]

Very good. Why coolant pink, round stock is bleeding? :)

[@halheavyduty]

Haha. It’s definitely different. It’s called Holemaker. It seems to have excellent rust prevention properties and never goes off. They were using it before I took over the shop, and I haven’t found a better alternative. Totally open to any recommendations for high performing 4140 cutting fluid.

[@wajvej7744]

Sorry for all the Kennametal fan's but the original design of this drill is from Karl HERTEL AG Germany (Kenna just bougt the company years ago and put their brand name on it - just as they did with the carbide drills)

[@halheavyduty]

Interesting! I didn’t know that.