HUGE Blacks Beach Surf January 18, 2018 Foam Board Clean-Up Set

[@haroldwallacerosenthal7933]

When your a kid you live in a controlled little world. You don't have the power to see everything so clearly When I first was brought here , to me this was a place you trembled every time you started down the bunker trail. In my group there still was the idea that you never knew exactly how things would turn out. Not kooks, but natural little people that didn't have a lot of support from anyone but each other But it was through this nievete that I learned my place in a place that tested every bit of my being and always had the upper hand. We hadn't been exposed to anything more , and for a little while blacks was a magical place that controlled our every plan. Later as I got older the world became eàsy to figure out, but back in the day when I scraped together 15 bucks for my first beavertail jacket and birdwell trunks, I might as well have been on the moon. That world and the shores and greenwall created more than enough adrenaline to keep one guessing. The callous demeanor came later as our world became crowded with the surfing commercialism took hold and what used to be magic became clouded with international sophisticated competitive players that frequented faraway places and media exploitation. Now when I was just z small boy of 7 or 10 my parents were nudists and they brought us kids down the road off LJ farms road. There were thousands of naked women traipsing about but it never occurred to me because little kids are fixated on the sand and foam and playing . now that I'm old it shows me that those times were magical because we were quite impressed with litlle old San Diego and didn't know how to criticize a wave or belittle something. These are my thoughts today as I sit looking out my window trapped in northern cal . trapped in a way I could never imagine, because my parents are 99 and 80 and the spirit is quite willing , the flesh is weak. To realise its me that they depend on for anything requiring strength, I became torn between being the protector, and wanting to run away. There is now no room for ego and critism, callousness and its the nagging encroachment of death looming on the horizon. Looking back I'm overwhelmed by all the incredibly difficult obsticals of living in the middle if nowhere tied to a place with people depending on me . so watch out, don't get so smart that you shoot yourself in the foot. We don't realise the cosmos has things in store that may test us to the last thread, and that is a wave beyond measure.

[@lesliehorwinkle]

dude.

[@b4ssfunk3d]

I have to appreciate the now that I live in. I'll only have these memories someday when I'm older. I hope for the best for you and your parents. Maybe moving them back to where they once called home isn't feasible but taking them on a trip to San Diego might be. If that is something they would want to do or on their bucket list you should go ahead and do that man. Life is too short and I'm learning to appreciate it more and more.

[@imDezrt]

Quality stuff. You're a gifted writer.

[@user-mn2jp2bb4x]

You should write a book. It'd be a best seller. You have a way with words my friend and translating them to other people with emotion to make them feel. Feeling is infectious and you are great with it's communication. Anyways take care.

[@salvitoripopadillo4539]

I love it brother! I'm sorry for the sadness that comes with aging parents. I remember the magical times as well! Not in San Diego but I remember them!

[@oneoceanwander9551]

Mad respect for taking out the foamy on a day like that. Awesome footage

[@agro2612]

That pitch on that wave is so intense . I almost died at Blacks back in the late 70's. I also have had some great sessions there too.. I have total respect for Blacks.. I haven't been down south in five years. One thing about Blacks there is no other wave like it in all of SD.

[@DirBee1901]

Pretty Awesome Footage. Gopro usually dwarfs waves, so these MUST have been huge!!!

[@chippysandoval6048]

dude inside to you on the first wave got absolutely smoked

[@StickyMubbs]

Very nice. Love the different points of view for the waves.

[@HoStevie]

*So sick!*

[@DavidSmith-ke1xb]

Cool to be on the water and see it from shore too. Great shot thanks bra

[@southflsurfer]

sick video you didn't get cleaned up tho! been in Hawaii for 4 years now and my best wave of my life is still prob at blacks on a day like this barreled off the drop on like a 17 foot face to risky to surf waves like that in Hawaii with the reef miss blacks gotta go back one day for a trip

[@sector783]

Bra, if the best wave you’ve ridden has been at Blacks Beach after being in HI the last 4 years, it’s because you don’t charge and that’s because the best surf in HI is above and beyond your abilities. Halle

[@danschroeder1690]

Yes, awesome footage for sure!

[@Blarrel.]

Dude the music makes it so peaceful but I was shitting myself

[@AmericanTestConstitution]

Can you tell us about that board, style, size and dimensions, and why you chose that board? It looks different from most guns for big surf?

[@Ibprius]

What buoy are getting that 13 @ 18? I spent a couple of days like this at an outer reef just north of Bird Rock. Cloudbreak type lefts 3/4 of a mile out in the ocean and empty while Blacks has 25 guys on South Peak. I called it lil Makaha. Never seen any footage on KZbin. The only place I've had to climb my leash.

[@greatfratsby2510]

You called it little makaha because that's whats it's been called since the 80's... Lol don't try acting like you named the fucking spot.

[@Ibprius]

@@greatfratsby2510 Lol. I did not name it. Its listed under that name in Surfing California. I just heard other guys call it by a different name you sniveling little nancy.

[@jenbradford3246]

13 ft @ 18 seconds had to be Harvest buoy or some other outer water buoy. Torrey buoy was reading maybe 5 ft

[@dontbescaredtohelp]

@@jenbradford3246 5 ft. I surf san diego daily, when it says 5 ft its not a third of this size.

[@JoelWassermansurfer]

Thats gnarly! Great work my friend

[@JEFFGUITAR]

Awesome 🤙 More of these 🤙

[@bonefishboards]

Canyon set!

[@clarkewi]

Nice ride!

[@GOD_FLASH143]

13 feet that was like Triple or quadruple overhead

[@hunterdavis3003]

Turn and go!!!

[@andrewiida3802]

Guess it’s not shoulder hoppin if it’s 12 foot.

[@mvygantas]

Only way to surf.. is to commit!

[@alexdavani7774]

Dope

[@JinJung24]

Sick

[@greglucey9971]

@2:58 that's a stormblade!

[@jasonctsa]

Keep making vids!

[@andrey.3562]

Fun!

[@Wesley22619]

Fucking sick video.

[@craig.encinitas]

J.O.B. would go.

[@Ibprius]

There is a heavier and more intimidating wave about 2 miles south out in the middle of the ocean.

[@apollojakeofficial]

Nice dude! I have a wave storm as well. If you want to see you can check it out on my channel. Sick clip!

[@jclm4188]

surfs too big& gnarley.but not 13 ft

[@AmericanTestConstitution]

Looks like the wave face is well over 18 ft. The wave is bigger than the average waves at Sunset Beach and Pipeline.

[@lauriecarter8931]

@@AmericanTestConstitution more like 6-8 feet 12-13 ft that's fucking fuckn massive bud

[@bloblablah7409]

It’s always the people in the comments who think they know the true size of the wave. I’m not gonna sit here and do the same thing but look at the size of the surfers compared to the wave in the first 20 seconds of the video. Assuming the average height of the surfers out there are 6’0, that face is easily 18ft like Alexander said. And I use 6’0 to be conservative, I’m sure the average surfer height out there is ~5’8. That’s easily triple overhead

[@3_too_won]

Where are the perfect barrels more bullshit I say socal

[@christopherconaway4028]

Pretty terrible-