Huge E3D Revo Upgrade! | Stealthchanger Voron Toolchanger Build | Episode 5

[@kaytrim]

I would love to see more detailed content on toolhead building. Also klipper setup for the multi tool system. There really isn't tutorial videos for tool changer setups yet.

[@GreySectoid]

I did a lot of research what kind of tool changer to implement on my Voron, ended up selecting the exact same configuration as here, then found out this build series, at least gives me confidence it will work well :)

[@nitroglicerine2k]

As a Sovol SV08 owner, I am also following your progress with the toolchanger.

[@kaytrim]

The timing is great for me as I am going to get my Voron 2.4 kit by the end of the month. I plan on using Galileo 2 G2SA on dragon burner toolheads and Red Lizard K1-pro hotends. Already have all the parts for 3 toolheads.

[@StackingLayers]

A tapchanger of some sort is definitely going to be my next big project!!

[@glendon3688]

Can’t wait to see this tool changer in action!

[@Vbeck56]

Awesome, caught this live!!!

[@Cpgeekorg]

Thanks for paving the way with this. I really want to get to work on retrofiting my v2 into a toolchanger at some point this winter.

[@pezliz]

Hype!

[@JustinThursday]

Cool 😎👍

[@Cpgeekorg]

I took a look at the "smart sensor for orbiter v2" and was really hoping that it worked the same way that the BTT SFS works (filament spins an encoder letting the board know how much filament has gone through it) because it works not just for detecting filament out conditions, but also for detecting snags, and any under-extrusion condition. the orbiter smart sensor works with 2 standard limit switches, one standard filament detect the other is on a spring to detect filament snags (which would be a good idea if it weren't already for the excellent use of an encoder by the BTT version.) I'm curious if there is a self-buildable version of the BTT approach - perhaps one that can fit in the same physical space as the same physical space as the orbiter v2 sensor setup.

[@JosephStory]

Isik's tech has a USB/CAN board called bird's nest. USB board with multiple CAN ports. Single voltage input.

[@andrewchambers8097]

Nice! I am interested in this setup for multi nozzle as well as soluble supports.

[@muuzen7731]

I'd like to see the next one be a mix of tools, maybe SB, DB, and Xol. Want to convert my LDO v2 300 soonish

[@hedgehogmakes]

Solid plan!

[@shadowphyre4746]

I would love a tutorial for stealthchanger and maybe for the dragon burner individually

[@deannaatkinson3004]

I’m really interested in the idea of a tool changer. I have a Bambu P1S now and have been building a Voron 2.4 (taking way too long). I’ve got an ERCF 2.0 printed (someday that might be built). But, I’m thinking I’d like a tool changer better. So, following to this completed.

[@Terlos1]

hmm i´m sitting now in front of my prints i have done to rebuild my 350iger 2.4 into a stealthchanger, but now, after i have build the modular docks i´m not sure if the small docks from viehsturz tapchanger is the cleaner solution. the modular dock is so big and the sight into the printer is very limited by using this system. if u compare both, the dock from viehsturz is so tiny xD.

[@AdventurePrinting]

Still going CANbus or USB? I was pinched by the Nitehawk36 failures but the board on paper was great (fan management and number of I/O ports). Technically you can use a simple usb hub manage the toolheads so the cable management is basically the same. What’s your stance on CANbus vs USB? I found troubles in CANbus stability once you plug 4-5 stubs (100k transmission speed).

[@brentmay]

was there a reason you didn’t go for the Mini BFI idlers?

[@hedgehogmakes]

This was built well before those existed, and I didn't want to mod the printer yet!

[@brentmay]

@@hedgehogmakes ah! Makes sense. Loving the build, I’m almost ready for my SC serial!

[@lukaszbusko]

I am not getting this why z offset manually, if you have tap capability?

[@hedgehogmakes]

TAP still requires a one time probe calibration, you are essentially calibrating the trigger distance of the TAP sensor. For the toolchanger, I will need to calibrate the offsets between different tools, but that's a bit different

[@lukaszbusko]

@@hedgehogmakes if i would use revo pz to get precise touch and then do offset -0.25 as start point, would it be good idea? I am just wondering how princesses it should be when dealing with more toolheads?

[@TheTheskitzofrantic]

Do you share the printer.cfg anywhere for this build?

[@hedgehogmakes]

Not mine, but you can check out the default configs

[@Cpgeekorg]

as far as your power capacity conundrum, instead of adding power, I would prefer to work smarter instead of wasting power. I would want a software interlock so that only 2 (3?) heaters can receive power at any given time. the idea is that via some slicer gcode, you could heat the toolhead for the next change and the current one, and when it docks, it turns off the heater on the tool so you really only need 2 tools hot at any given time (especially given how quickly modern toolheads heat to temp). even to get from room temp to 300c (the reasonable limit for most hobbiest hotends) you're talking about a max of what? 20 seconds? for even less complexity (But arguably longer tool changes by a few seconds), you could set it up so only a single toolhead is heated at any given time very simply by modifying your tool change macro to set the current tool to 0c and set the tool your changing to to whatever temp is needed and wait for heating... it really shouldn't take that long and then you aren't wasting power keeping multiple toolheads hot. *shrug*

[@BT123D]

You'll find that the power draw from heating a hotend from cold each time is more than keeping one at idle for a couple of minutes. especially when many prints have hundreds of changes. on top of that, the "not much time" will actually add up to quite a lot of time by the end of the print, and extending the print time by 30mins ish will arguable waste more power. For example, a 5 colour benchy has 523 colour changes, at 20seconds each, that's nearly 3 hours worth of waiting for the hotend to heat up. Also the start gcode is set that it will heat up each tool sequentially rather than all at once. a large PSU is mainly there for piece of mind incase all are heated at once by accident