HURRY IT IS 90 DEGREES IN OUR KITCHEN

[@DVSandpiper]

I’m not a HVAC repair tech, I watch these videos as entertainment

[@EverythingisFire]

I used to be. I keep watching these regardless :)

[@darwisyaiman1865]

Yeah maybe can apply for big picture thing for daily life

[@BobbyS1981]

Same. I find this to be quite interesting.

[@Rattletrap-xs8il]

I hear ya, I'm not an HVAC guy either but I really like the troubleshooting skills.

[@simplybeanjelly]

Same here

[@Ghyus01]

Hey Chris! Just wanted to give you a thank you!! As someone who knows a bit about electronics but absolutely nothing about AC's, watching your videos helped me fix my parents AC! On Saturday it was starting to get warm inside and seemed like my AC wasn't working (I was spending the weekend with them). I went out and the condenser fan motor would spin up, the compressor clicked a couple times but never started. I remembered one of your videos where you experienced something similar and diagnosed a bad start capacitor. So I shut off the breaker, took off the wires to the cap, used a multimeter to test it and it was very low. Being in the middle of nowhere, I ordered a replacement online, it showed up today, I threw it in and success! You saved my parents a butt load of money, having to call a tech out to the middle of no where! Thanks for that!

[@JBsBody]

Electrician here, whenever you're terminating a connection with a stranded conductor I would recommend gently wiggling the wire as you're tightening the lug. This allows the strands of the wire to move around and seat better in the terminal. Keep up the good work!

[@HVACRVIDEOS]

That's a great tip!! Thanks bud

[@silasmarner7586]

Nice!! :)

[@throttlebottle5906]

or loosen and torque again a few times. **edit: I should add that, depending on the type/size of lug, wiggling the wire too much may splay the conductors out and have some or many walk around the lug screw, and have no pressure or even get cut off. you just have to pay attention as an installing contractor and learn what's right/wrong. I have looked at some things, I did 25+ years ago and went what in the fork was i thinking.

[@everettstevenson2111]

@@HVACRVIDEOS Ready ? Neo

[@andrewgilbreath1331]

Man Chris, you have no idea how much info you drop on each video. I'm a 20 year veteran tech, coming from a family of top notch techs. My moto is A.B.L. always be learning (adopted from one of my old bosses), I have been operating my own hvac company for 4+ years, I have still picked up a lot of info from your content. You good sir are a natural born teacher, and hand out a lot of good info for sharpening our craft as hvac techs. For example I did not work on ice machines or reach in stuff until about six years ago now I have so 30 odd accounts with reach in and ice equipment, I still felt shaky in that area when i started my business but through watching your videos and trial by fire I feel 100% confident walking into any Ice machine or Reach-in call. Sincerest of thank you's Andrew G

[@otischeatomjr22]

You make us better at our job.

[@muadeeb]

Not an hvac tech, but I find these extremely fascinating. Love seeing the thought process in troubleshooting, the satisfaction in making a broken thing work again, and playing the game of "guess the failure". I also manage five facilities, so there's the educational aspect of knowing what my vendors are going through without hovering

[@Dunhambulance]

On your closing remarks. Your troubleshooting method has made me a better technician. No matter how many times I see it. So regardless of whether you make mistakes or "just work" it's insightful and helpful. Thanks for producing content that helps all of us, it does mean a lot.

[@Bryan-Hensley]

I repaired my first walk in freezer this week. I've worked on walk in coolers, but never a freezer. You wouldn't believe how familiar it was because of your videos. Especially about the defrosting. I had to completely rewire the entire defrost system. Replace several elbows because of horrible brazing. They even tried to braze a crack in the copper line. Whoever worked on it before shouldn't be working on anything.

[@DemocracyV3]

That green screw is a bonding screw, that bar should be for the neutral conductor but looks like it is missing. IF it was present you need to remove the green screw as neutral and ground should only connect at the first point of disconnect for the building.

[@legionofanon]

I'm not HVACR but i work with water and 3 phase pumps. While you're videos are not a direct translation to what i see, i feel like I've learned decent troubleshooting process from you. A few months ago we had the motor of a pump just buzz when turned on, i turned off the disconnect and checked the fuses, the looked and tested fine. Disconnect back on and had no voltage drop. Turned out that a wire nut in the motor connection melted and grounded out in the cover, and i was confident that nothing else was bad. Fixed the one connection, checked the rest and it fired right up. Keep making videos i love watching them

[@york2600]

I don't even have an AC and these videos are great. It's problem solving and that transcends all industries. You have a fantastic approach to problem solving and it's great to watch you break down a problem into potential causes and then eliminate each one.

[@Terayonjf]

I'm the same. If the damage already started it's too late for preventative measures like greasing and sanding electrical components. It might give you some time before the failure happens again but I'd rather solve the problem in 1 trip than return with my tail between my leg for the same issue

[@ntsecrets]

Plus, it’s a safety device. Do you really want to take the risk?

[@amtrak1007]

I'm a theatrical systems engineer. I love watching HOW you approach the problems and work on getting X (the problem) on one side of the equation. Also got to use a trick you had showed on changing belts on a hoist today WWEEEEEE!

[@Android_Warrior]

I am not a HVAC Tech but a Commercial Laundry Tech but I like your troubleshooting skills and I have learn a lot, thanks!!!!

[@michaelbuckley3808]

Chris, I've been watching your videos since day one. You have a rare combination of skills. I call it "The Knack". You have the teaching/training mindset, plus the patience to read and answer questions from random people on the internet. I'm only one of many " random" people on the internet, I would like to say, Thank you! I know it takes a lot of work to make a video like this. I don't think that most people realize that! Your level of knowledge and insights set the gold standard that everybody else should measure up to!

[@natepeterson7145]

I watch these videos as education and entertainment! Plus you're really honest and not cringe. Especially I like how you don't get unprofessional in the comments when someone doesn't agree with you on a particular procedure. Good job!

[@HVACRVIDEOS]

Thanks for the nice words Nate!

[@everettstevenson2111]

@@HVACRVIDEOS Ready ? Neo

[@keithhaberler4529]

As a HVACR student these videos are gold thank you for making them

[@pinecone01]

Insight from a weirdo who likes watching you work: I watch all sorts of mechanical related channel. lawncare, generators, automobiles, etc. Part of the fun is seeing what's wrong with the things, and don't sell yourself short on the educational side either. Granted, none of us are gonna start ripping into AC systems, but the knowledge of how they work, and seeing what it takes to fix them, makes we, the audience, gain respect for the people who keep many of these beat up, clapped out, units going. Also as someone in the north-east, the SoCal scenery is different and cool to see too!

[@silasmarner7586]

Ya know, some .. repeat some.. ofthe units he has service seem purty good. But others are just absolute filthy messed up garfed up NIGHTMARES. Beat up and clapped out is insulting the items that are merely beat up, clapped out.

[@throttlebottle5906]

so, there's other weirdo's out there? add in electrical, electronics, plumbing, drain cleaning, carpentry. pretty much, most all construction fields, I have watched and also directly worked in over the years. it's always the same thing, people beating a dead horse to get the last second of life out of things.(guilty also)

[@Organised-Chaos]

Great video. I work in Transport Refrigeration in UK and I find your diagnostic’s methods very helpful. You do an excellent job of explaining everything, your work ethics are first class 👍

[@thomashowe855]

“I have full control of this kitchen ac that’s kinda cool”

[@AARONJL92]

Hey Chris I feel like every time I watch your videos I get smarter. Thanks!

[@Gcanno]

There's alot of educational value in these videos .

[@klepp2005]

I'm in the IT/tech industry, I've watched your videos for years. I honestly love your content, I love learning new things, and your videos are oddly satisfying and relaxing!

[@efco24]

Union HVAC tech up north in Oregon. There's classroom HVAC, where you ALWAYS straighten up the wiring, you ALWAYS leave the unit with perfect SH/SC, you ALWAYS pull a sub 500 micron evac, and you ALWAYS flow N2 when brazing. Then there's the real world where there are budgets, and fucked up equipment, and insane lack of access to stuff, and all kinds of other "stuff" Thanks for showing what it's like in the real world! Love these videos!!

[@inothome]

Wiggle the wires when you tighten them, they'll turn more. Try a larger blade on the torque screwdriver too. Those small blades on the big lugs tear them up. That green screw, is to bond the box to the ground, not necessarily shows that's a ground terminal strip. And yeah, usually easier to replace the guts than replace a box, depending on how many penetrations and location of course.

[@tbelding]

Agreed. Use the largest flat bit that will slot into the screw and seat against the bottom of the slot. Stripping the screw is more often due to too small of a screwdriver tip than the material.

[@colinstu]

Love hearing about all the little extra things you took care of on the roof… gonna be running os much better

[@timballam3675]

In the UK repairs can be written off against tax, new equipment has to be written off over a few years, repairs save money!

[@ZaphodHarkonnen]

I’d expect any accountant with an ability to breathe would be able to file a part replacement in a larger piece of equipment as a repair. And at a larger scale, if you can replace a broken machine faster than you can repair it then it’s often cheaper overall to just replace. As a non working machine isn’t helping generate revenue. And any savings difference between repair and replace can evaporate very very very quickly.

[@garyk7290]

So you don't want to shine a turd. You did the right fix.

[@845amg]

Thanks for your videos. You and others like you making videos got me more interested in refrigeration. I have installed my own ductless units in the past but took it a step further now and got my 608 universal. It's nice to sit on the shoulder of someone that does this for a living so we can absorb knowledge no matter how mundane it may seem to you.

[@ampereelectric6346]

That green screw inside the disconnect is to bond the cabinet to the equipment grounding conductor (EGC), good call that thermal camera really helps

[@donwilliams9661]

It's both, interesting to see the equipment you are working on and your thought process in debugging the issue. And your honesty is refreshing....

[@madxenomorph]

I am not in the HVAC field at all, I have no idea why I like these videos (might be because I have a desk job and like hands-on stuff), but they are honestly some of the high points for my work day

[@GeminiSeven43]

I know that you are on a time crunch in the field but it would be interesting to see the ohm values and voltage drop across the disconnect of the old unit before you replaced it. Thermal cameras rock for troubleshooting electrical, what camera do you use? Sanding and grease for the contacts are fine for an emergency to get them by but replacing this is always the best bet. Even if you get the terminals cleaned the heat damage to the metal can't be determined and will definitely shorten the life of the unit. Thanks Chris for taking us along on this one.

[@eastlandgin]

Isn't that green screw a bonding screw and not supposed to be connected in subpanels? I guess it doesn't matter in 3 phase where there is no neutral.

[@HVACRVIDEOS]

Yeah you are right about the bonding screw

[@everettstevenson2111]

@@HVACRVIDEOS Ready ? Neo

[@ericlaliberte3473]

When your disconnect gets hot the metal gets soft and is no longer going to be saved with filling or grease. You see thus and it should be a no brainer (change it out no questions) The green screw on the grounding block is to bond the ground lug to the body of the disconnect.

[@kennethchristensen7457]

why do you have a fuse disconnect ? The NEC calls for a visible means of disconnect not fuses. wires are protected by the circuit breaker.

[@jazbell7]

You were exactly right about changing that disconnect. When I worked as an electrician in a factory, the moto was "when in doubt, change it out". Down time is expensive when manufacturing.

[@omarramos2341]

Love all of your videos Chris. I’m still fairly new to the HVAC service game. I’ve been in the trade since late 2018 to early 2019 as a PM technician and just recently back in late 2020 was pretty much thrown to the wolfs with previous companies and started doing service work but a lot of your videos have really helped me out in troubleshooting, repair work and also with the people I’ve had teach especially my father who’s had 20+ years of hvac and process refrigeration experience. I do industrial hvac service here in south east Texas just about an hour south of Houston. I don’t mean to make this like a bragging post or anything like that of the sort but I just wanted to tell you thank you for all the informative content you put out for us all here in the trade and to help new techs like myself or even experienced techs learn different things and methods to educate us further and to make us better each and every day at what we do.

[@pigrew]

Yes, 100% replace the fuse contacts (instead of sanding). The contacts are engineered with special platings that should resist corrosion. Sanding them removes the platings and they likely will fail again more quickly. In addition, the overheating tempers the contacts, likely making them less springy. For lower power things, I try using deoxit if a replacement component is not on hand.. and yeah, I've broken the disconnects before but torquing them to spec. It's crazy they are not designed to be strong enough to withstand the forces they tell us to use. For the equipment replacement, I would lean on the side of repair when possible, for environmental reasons. I realize it's a balance between efficiency, greenhouse gas emissions, manufacturing costs, etc, but I always imagine the manufacturing costs outweighing the others, so I err on the side of reducing consumption.

[@josemartinez-4570]

Great call👍 definitely, I would’ve done the same thing replacing the safety disconnect switch

[@SuperSquart]

I’m a tech and I truly enjoy your videos I’ve been doing it 8 years now and I still don’t know shit. Lol I Learn something every day and I enjoy learning and troubleshooting equipment

[@rhinohino]

I'm a production technician, I troubleshoot anything from packaging equipment to labeling machines. I learn from the different troubleshooting methods you use.

[@rat_boy_u]

I absolutely agree with you on that disconnect. It doesn't make sense and the customer doesn't want you coming back again any time soon. It's cheaper for everyone just to replace it.

[@Starchface]

I'm not an HVAC technician, but i did stay at a holiday inn express last night.

[@DelticEngine]

Thanks for another great video, Chris. I look forward to the logic of your thought processes. I agree with your decision to replace the inner parts of isolator with new parts as oppose to replacing the entire isolator or trying to clean the contacts. Attempting to use sandpaper on contacts can exacerbate a problem because of the reduced electrical contact area from the scratches introduced by the sandpaper creating areas of no contact and increasing arcing and heating during operation therefore shortening the life of the isolator but with the added possibility of introducing further issues that could become quite costly. If the contact surfaces were polished clean equal to or greater than the original manufacturing standard then this would most likely be an acceptable, if time consuming, solution. I particularly liked seeing you use thermal imaging as part of a diagnosis. As these machines are all about the transfer of heat I can't help but wonder why you don't use thermal imaging a lot more often as part of preventative maintenance and fault diagnosis. To use this video as an example, would thermal imaging not have been helpful in identifying plugged metering devices by showing the thermal gradient across them?

[@Pippy626]

If you have long term contracts have you considered adding any smart monitoring it wouldn’t be all that much and you could know all the voltages and amps before you even show up so when making work orders you could save your time and charge a monthly fee

[@RambozoClown]

Good luck getting the customers to pay for it. They don't even want PM or filter service anymore. Penny wise and pound foolish.

[@josephwhitaker9365]

Excellent video. Most techs would've replaced the fuses and kept it pushing.

[@johnwalker890]

Good job Chris.

[@everettstevenson2111]

oh boy, another cyber hack.

[@johnwalker890]

You're sure right, hacking everything.

[@everettstevenson2111]

Hey Chris, that is a green bonding screw which needs to be install according to the NEC code.

[@JOHNPHUFNAGEL]

Isn't the green screw to bond the ground lugs to the box?

[@Byron88]

Yes, normally when there is a green screw it is a bonding screw and the disconnect is likely also service rated and you would land your service neutrals there as well

[@kevinpoore5626]

Well there's always that slight chance with that disconnect that you think they're tight but it just welded in place it could be possible with 3-phase anything could be possible

[@stillthakoolest]

The green screw isnt there to tell you it is an equipment grounding bar, it is a main bonding jumper. You bought a disconnect rated for use as service equipment. (Not needed for an AC disco for 8awg wire.) At the service, that green screw (code requires it to be green) is the main bonding jumper that bonds the service neutral conductor (groundED conductor) to the equipment groundING conductors and the disconnect enclosure. Downstream of the service disconnect, neutrals and equipment grounding conductors are seperated to avoid objectionable currents. In this case you have no neutral landed there to bond, but that is why it is there. Technically that is a neutral bar and you should add a ground bar and remove the screw, but by screwing it down it is bonding that bar to the enclosure. Just dont add a neutral later and connect it to the equipment grounds on that bar.

[@HVACRVIDEOS]

Great information thanks bud!!

[@stillthakoolest]

A​​nytime. From an electricians point of view you do an awesome job in that department

[@everettstevenson2111]

@@HVACRVIDEOS Ready ? Neo

[@eamonroad6388]

45 amp fuses on 8ga wire?

[@danpresson]

Awesome video changing that disconnect solved the problem it could fail later

[@dashcamandy2242]

0:58 - Oh my! 1:14 - Oh my my my! Time for another "Crazy Work Moments With Andy" story! (It's longer than my usual length, but you still might find it funny!) Some of our stores are having an issue with puddles of water underneath our Delfield sandwich stations (4-drawer, with two flip-tops) and it's unknown whether this is from overflowing drip trays, or from condensation pooling in the bottom of the unit that then drains out the front when the bottom drawers are open. Nobody can be bothered to look for me, and it's already happened by the time I arrive in the afternoons. One symptom I notice when I arrive for my shift - I always find the flip-tops are wide open, but not in use - is massive condensation on the stainless cover over the coil. Not just a dewy coating, I mean BIG water droplets. (I'm sure this means absolutely nothing. Yes, I am being _extremely_ sarcastic!) The droplets are about the same size as the ones all over the bottom of our walk-in's condensation pan - the PVC drain STILL flows uphill, nobody's been out to fix that yet, despite the fact the fan now sprays water everywhere, we're mopping the floor several times a day, our panned food has water on the lids because the shelves are aligned with the edge of the drain pan! 😠 BUT I DIGRESS, as I so often do... Back to the Delfields. Andy's Instant Diagnosis: Crew members most likely leaving the flip-tops open when not in use, causing excess condensation that then falls to the bottom of the box. (And also possibly allowing food to reach unsafe temperatures!) Something I have been lecturing people about for over two years now. (Revolving door of staff, so I'm constantly teaching people the Right Way To Do Stuff but they'll leave in a few months and I'm then starting over again with someone new.) Dunkin' Franchise Instant Diagnosis: ALL Delfields are not defrosting properly, equipment failure can be the only cause, we're not going to investigate further or send a tech out to actually see if there's issues with the Delfields themselves, we're just condemning the machines - but we're not replacing them, either, so deal with it. When closing, take the food out, tear the unit completely down and clean, leave unplugged overnight. Plug in at 3 AM, put food back inside, open at 4 AM. First day of this new procedure was, of course, my night to close (this past Tuesday). So I really go to town on it. Every square inch was washed, sanitized, and then sanitized again, and left fully apart to air-dry. I used bleach during the initial cleaning (which, surprisingly, is now against both the Franchise Owner and Dunkin' standards - WHY? I assume nobody knows to wash the bleach products off thoroughly and THEN use a quaternary sanitizer... FFS!) and I also used the hottest tap water I could coax from our Navien (and I cranked that puppy up to 140°F because when I wash anything, I use HOTTT water). You know the phrase, "you should take a picture, it'll last longer?" Yeah, I should've taken photos. I absolutely was pleased with myself, not gonna lie! Wednesday morning, Manager #11 - transferred in from a different store with the SAME Delfield unit - didn't know how to reinstall the drawers. 😆 It's the EASIEST set of drawers I have removed from/installed in anything, from waterbed bases to filing cabinets. The opening Crew Member Member took a closer look and figured it out. So I was strongly-urged to NOT remove the drawers anymore unless I was going to reinstall them myself. 🤦‍♂OK, fine, so be it. Well, the other Closers performed the same procedure Wednesday night but never removed the drawers, and they closed them fully. On Thursday morning, the Manager was off, and a different Opening Crew Member was there. She had NO IDEA this new procedure was going on. So she pulled the food staged in the walk-in and refilled the Delfield, and as she did she thought, "It seems a little warm." Then she got distracted with all the other opening procedures and thought nothing of it. I come in at 2 PM, and around 2:30 I go to make a bagel with butter for a customer. The butter was POURABLE. I felt NO cooling on the back of my wrist when my hand was inside. No airflow at all, in fact. Run and check the breaker panel, thinking maybe it's a tripped breaker from the somewhat- severed line cord (more on that later). No tripped breakers. My stomach dropped. I literally felt a cold lump in my stomach. I ran for the thermometer, and immediately took the temp of an egg patty. 64.9°F. I FREAKED THE EFF OUT. This is NOT acceptable. Texted Manager #11, he told me to pull the food and stage it in the walk-in. But while waiting for his response, I had already begun investigating. The closing shift had kindly left the plug for the Delfield hanging over the rear edge so it could be grasped from the spot where the shelf supports attach to the top of the unit, as I taught them. (The line cord had its outer insulation severed in one spot over two years ago, we're still waiting for it to be repaired, it now has FIVE broken spots in the outer insulation and very minor evidence of insulation chafing, so I showed them how to hold the cord while pushing the unit back into place to keep the cord from getting damaged again/further.) I check the line cord, as I do obsessively because, as much as I'd love to be a Witness (getting zapped myself) or Plaintiff (witnessing someone else get zapped), I don't actually want anyone else to be hurt. I'd much rather the place 🔥overnight due to their malpractice than risk my Crew Members' health. If I get shocked, that's fine; I can happily testify that this was a KNOWN SAFETY ISSUE and our maintenance man (Idiot With A Toolbelt has finally retired! 🎉) said I was just being "dramatic." And I can warn others about the risks, watch them grit their teeth, and then I wait for the inevitable "Why aren't they getting that fixed?" Anyway, dang I really need to edit... OK, Cliff Notes Version: Manager tells me to keep the food, I tell him no, I really hate to toss so much product but we've gone way too far beyond safe storage temps to risk our customers, and amazingly, he agreed (looks like SOMEBODY remembers his ServSafe training!). Wrote it all off & tossed it. Cleaned the unit again. Plugged it in fully-empty to make sure it was working, and in less than an hour it went from room-temp (80°-ish) to 28.4°F - totally kicking butt, and it's still holding good temps (upper 30s) when full, as long as my dummy coworkers keep the flip-tops closed and make sure the drawers are fully-closed.

[@tbelding]

Just as a trick - use a zippered sandwich bag for the fuses you leave in the box. Slight insulation, and helps protect from moisture, sand, etc. Also lowers corrosion.

[@davidplaster4576]

Since you already replaced the compressors (newer) and put on a new evaporator a year ago, I hear rumors that there is a TXV conversion kit that can be done to these units to get rid of the fixed orifice metering device header; and it seems to have good outcomes and only a few hours? to complete. Maybe that would be a good try to make it so the the work done already can last as long as possible? Love your videos and dedication to doing good work!!

[@HVACRVIDEOS]

I will discuss this on my livestream this evening 12/4/23 @ 5:PM (pacific) on KZbin come on over and check it out kzbin.infoJts4CYkWsVI?si=du26wcfZjFKocSAz

[@victoriarouleau9804]

These videos are like AMSR to me, so relaxing and I’m not even a tech , his voice is just so calm always ,he’s even taught me a lot about HVAC. I love this channel and accidentally stumbled across it like 6 months ago and have never lost interest and has become a part of my calming routine, thank you

[@DJSubAir]

Been watching since the beginning and he keeps doing great videos

[@halverde6373]

That's not a sneeze guard, it's a sweat guard. And then they put 2 big Taylor ice cream machines in their too! LMAO!

[@BetterBiomedChannel]

Excellent video! You did a thorough investigation.

[@Brisket9392]

One of the reasons I avoid disconnects if possible. If I'm cleaning a unit/changing filters, I'm putting the thermostat in service mode and locking it. Just last week I had to use an old disconnect (much older than this) --- Turned unit back on and went back to electrical box. Thought I was smelling fireworks. Nope. Disconnect was smoking. Tried to turn back off at disconnect. Nope. Ran back to electrical and pulled 24v off transformer. Opened disconnect and fire was still going. Blew it out. Third blade where handle was at had burned up. Only one blade moving with handle. The heat disconnect the remaining 2 legs so they were stuck in ON position.

[@wtfux]

Would a better sealed disconnect switch be worth the longer life in the fight against sand? Or perhaps something ghetto, like running fish tank air tubing from below the blower plenum to the disconnect and electrical compartment to keep it at positive air pressure to keep out the sand?

[@davemounce2665]

Greetings Chris. Excellent video. The evaporative make up air with A/C makes the rooftop units work harder as one adds moisture and the other tries to remove it. Just saying.

[@dennishamilton772]

Sanding contacts can damage the alloy coating on some types of contacts.

[@dennishamilton772]

What brand and model TIC are you using to look at the disconnect switch?

[@a-aron2276]

You actually had me laughing at the ferrules😂 it was like you responded to my internal thoughts🤣

[@patriknilsson2175]

@hvacrvideos What problems did you encounter with 407C comparing to 22 as you spoked about in this vid? Back in Europe everything (99,9%) with 22 is converted to 417A or 407C due to very hard restrictions of the (H)CFC's

[@-Jorts-]

could you do a rundown of your gauge/clamp setup and the software you were using ?

[@hgbugalou]

Good grief, WHY do the still make lugs in flat head instead of hex or torx? It drives me nuts everytime I see it! It would be different if it was only small lugs for 10-15 amps, but for these big ones its just inexcusable.

[@thalamus82]

It’s always really cheap soft metal they use too, which gets chewed up quickly. I suspect it’s just down to cost. It’ll be cheaper to produce (and therefore procure) flatheads. You can tell they’re only really designed for single use, if you need to remove them you’re likely removing them to replace the disconnect.

[@hgbugalou]

@@thalamus82 I assume its aluminum for the conductivity which is understandable, but at least make it a torx drive.

[@wonderhomie2011]

You can replace the header on Carrier fixed orifice metering devices. Have done three this year. A usual issue with Carrier RTUs.

[@davidberger4726]

Well done!! I like to use ox-gard on the threads.

[@RAMONHVACR]

Wire size too small. Is that 10 AWG or 8 AWG

[@HVACRVIDEOS]

8 gauge

[@everettstevenson2111]

@@HVACRVIDEOS Ready ? Neo

[@everettstevenson2111]

# 8 copper thwwn , wire is rated for 125% of the equipment. again Mfg is doing the math today.

[@NeilPho]

I love work: I can watch it for hours.

[@joeshearer1247]

I think the green screw is to bond the metal box itself to the ground

[@HVACRVIDEOS]

Yeah you are right , I learn something new every day!

[@joeshearer1247]

@@HVACRVIDEOS you know the more interesting question would be why would you not want the outer box bonded to ground? Had to be some reason they don’t just do it in the factory.

[@everettstevenson2111]

@@HVACRVIDEOS Ready ? Neo

[@markanderson350]

You are doing beyond what most techs would do, especially on a 95 degree day.

[@jon1583]

Hey man ty for the videos. Really helping me understand. This video came out at the right time. Hoping you can help me with a question. Today I measured at the disconnect. L1 was 200v L2 was 120v and L3 was 120v. Seeing you had issues with the disconnect do you think it's possible so do i?

[@Ininoutb]

If you were measuring line to neutral or line to ground then you might just have a high leg delta system as one leg will be much higher in voltage than the other two when measured to a neutral or ground but line to line all the voltages should be the same

[@RambozoClown]

Sounds like high leg delta to me. Measure between L1-L2, L2-L3, L1-L3

[@jon1583]

@Ininoutb yes from L1 to ground read 200v. But L1 to L2 and L1 to L3 was all at 240v. Ty

[@jon1583]

@@RambozoClown all was 240v when checked between the lugs.

[@RambozoClown]

@@jon1583 That is totally normal. Nothing wrong. It is called high leg delta. You just have to be careful when pulling 120V single phase circuits that you don't use the high leg. This can also be an issue with three phase equipment that uses single phase for control circuits without a transformer. (not very common but it's out there.) Google "high leg delta" for details.

[@efficientheatingcooling]

I do commercial for many R22 units. We bought about 2000 lbs of it way back when it was on the cheap. However, now I am down to about 400 pounds left and know we will need to work with retrofits. R407C has been my go to. Admittedly, it doesn't seem to cool as well as good 'ol R22.

[@GruvyTubie]

Why do they NOT replace the unit? It is usually because a new unit is funded as a capital expense and therefore must be allocated by the powers that be, ie: corporate. Repairs are an expense and cost of doing business, like pocket change. It is more trouble for these managers to try and get capital expenditures than pocket change for maintenance. Money for maintenance is usually allocated automatically in the yearly budgets. That is why they do not replace units even though, in the long run, they are saving money. Jim Z - Fan

[@castirondude]

what thermal camera area you using and do you recommend it?

[@drewc7479]

What you think of a thermal gun to check that? Also like that screwdriver

[@ralphlaurencastro]

Can you please show where you put airflow probes on rtus, thanks

[@instrumenttech4220]

This happens when people open the disconnect under load if you were wondering it happens in the plants all the time

[@fearlessmailbox7347]

Hey man, just arrived back home by car. I just have you on audio, no video, half cause it's interesting cause I'm an electrical engineer, half cause your voice is just chill to listen to. Keep it up

[@tstartrekdude]

I wouldn't clean the contacts becuse I doubt the contacts are the cause, but a symptom. The spring (or plastic supporting it) pushing the contact to the other is probably weak and not repairable, springs weaken with age, and even more so with heat. That disconnect was toast.

[@m9ovich785]

102, Not to bad out AHAHAHAHAHAHA I'm dead & shriveled up...

[@halverde6373]

Kitchen cook/hotside area shouldn't be mechanically refrigerated. That's insane. The solution is a powerful vent hood interlocked with a swamp cooler for makeup air. In cold climates a direct fire Rupp is the way to go. Move that air, but just short of noticing it begins to pull refrigerated air out of the rest of the area! The swinging doors in kitchens are there for a reason. Treat a commercial kitchen as you would a multi-bay car repair shop.

[@jamestoy426]

I always learn from your videos

[@coreyr8870]

About the conversion to 407c. Thought that was the solution for r22 systems that people dont want to replace, but doesn't work qith fixed orifice vs changing txvs?

[@rmhanseniii]

I saw it when he zoomed in…. when they stripped the conductor on the line side they cut the strands. They stripped it with their pliers and damaged the conductor which caused overheating

[@Byron88]

I know its always hard to tell in a video but those feed wires looked undersized like #10, and should be #8

[@HVACRVIDEOS]

They are #8

[@everettstevenson2111]

@@HVACRVIDEOS Ready ? Neo

[@brent562]

literally the same carrier i was working on today but in pasadena haha

[@toms7098]

Do you use your wireless probes while charging or do you switch to a manifold

[@Eddy63]

Good vid Bud ... Thx

[@FrNMGuy]

"Line 1 is running, currently, at 32 Amps." The dad jokes write themselves.

[@JP-sd2cw]

What do you like better for your field piece probes, measure quick or field piece job link app? And why?

[@smithno41]

I've never had a happy day with that make and model of fused disconnect, the blades always develop a high resistance, which then makes the fuses open. Lucky that at least two blew so that the compressors did not get single phased.

[@oldtimefarmboy617]

If you value knowledge, then anything that teaches you something you did not know is considered worthwhile. If you own a business like this then what they learn watching your videos will enable them to know if an HVAC technician is doing their job or trying to rip them off. If you are an employee of one of these businesses then watching your videos might make them more valuable to their employer because they might be able to get the air conditioner running again in a pinch until you can get there to do a proper fix. Or you might be like me, older and disabled and wanting to keep your mind active by learning new things to keep from vegetating.

[@jamesmcevoy1274]

Chris youre the best keep it going!!!

[@ronguerrero1]

Hello not sure if you have already but can you get into the program u use on your laptop

[@bradsmith9293]

What type of heat trace r you using?

[@Kangenpower7]

I love seeing the IR check on the disconnect and the fuses, so they can see what is wrong with the system. I would never repair a disconnect, that will cause your customer to call you back in a few weeks! To bad you can not talk your customer into a newer unit that will use a lot less energy! With plugged air filters on the make up air system, if it is putting out about 400 CFM less air than it should, it will cause the stove exhaust system to draw air from other areas, and cause a significant increase of power used by every other A/C in the place, cooling that extra air brought into the building and being exhausted by the stove exhaust. Would it help to explain that the new unit will have a much higher SEER rating, and that it will use much less power each month? Especially if the systems are running over 100 hours per week.