Hydraulic Flat Tappet Camshaft - Break in

[@Pork-Chopper]

I installed a Comp Cams cam kits, break-in oil etc. Instructions called for running engine 45 minutes at 2500rpm. I ran it for an hour 60 minutes. I used Amsoil Break-in oil. Did it on two engines, a small block n a big block Chevy. I've had no problems. Both run great! Smooth idle n nice throaty rumble out back. Running stock exhaust manifolds. The small block has a bit more of a lowpy idle. The big block runs smoother, but the exhaust note definitely is big block. Both are mild street/strip cams and run with low stall towing converters. Both pull hard with decent drivability...

[@alexbrodeur6458]

How has no one caught that when they said the lifters are concave when they are CONVEX. Concave flat tappet lifters are no good! Convex or flat is acceptable if reusing with the cam they were ran with...

[@scottrobertson6949]

Yes, I started watching and as soon as I heard CONCAVE I said you've lost me and have Zero credibility. So did no one at Edelbrock proof this presentation? The last set of Edelbrock heads I sold had dirty casting finish in the intake ports that wasn't rectified. They are loosing on trust, quality and their prices are making their product unaffordable. Wake Up Edelbrock!!!😮

[@deankay4434]

This is why placing a machinist straight edge across the lifter’s bottom to look for daylight in the center, yet also see a convex surface by allowing the machinist rule to rock left to right. This is only done to check lifters when reusing the cam. Cam lobe checks come later. Use best practices for all engine component testing. If you don’t have the tools, pay a shop to measure them. If a normal daily driver, inspect and note all while keeping numbered for the installation in the same spot. If higher RPM’s are required or power adder like turbo, super charger is to be added, now fitment changed and balancing the entire rotating assembly is required as rotational forces multiply quickly at 6,000 - 7,500 RPM. Being 1/2 gram off one the end, can create a load of 360 pounds on the crank, rod, bearings and piston. Turbo’s require higher valve springs because as they can be pushed open when turbo spools up. Lots of things. Best of luck with your project.

[@Dennon21]

Protip have someone watch the pushrods and make sure they are all spinning. If they aren't grab then and spin them to get them going

[@ab-qh6ip]

do you run it without valve covers?

[@rickdemorgan8951]

Have your block lifter bores Grove with a Comp Cams growing tool by your machine shop. This will put oil directly onto camshaft. Only drops pressure by 2 psi.

[@curt8641]

I know I'm 4 years late to the party, I wouldn't say anything about a youtuber or a home garage mechanic, (which is what I am at best) but this has the EDELBROCK USA stamp of approval on it. I am not an Edelbrock hater, I have-a-bunch of their stuff and I really like all of it, so here is my burnt oil under the fingernails observations. 1. Mr. August Cederstrand is a Reginal Account Manager. I assume he's not a Certified Mechanic, or they should have put that on the screen as well. Shame on you Edelbrock. Too bad corporations are more concerned about engineered image than practical information. Which brings me to 2. If your Engineering Department calls it Convex or Concave, please clarifiy. It is just a description and not a procedural catastrophy, but it has caused quite a ruckus, Shame on you Edelbrock. 3. I may have drained the old oil before I took the motor out of the vehicle, or even broke down the motor to remove the old cam. I like to pull the pan, make sure the oil pick-up tube is secured, and put a new gasket on, just a personal thing.

[@pr8r403]

Do you have to use a lighter spring pressure for the break in?

[@EdelbrockUSA]

Please contact our Tech department. We do not offer tech advice on KZbin.

[@jawmedia7575]

I use 1.3 rockers. For non big time race heads

[@devoncoolman88]

Answer is yes and no. If it is a stock or just above stock cam then no use the springs that are recommended for that camshaft. Of it is a big lift cam with duel or tripple valve springs then yes you do. Or simplest thing to do is remove the inner springs and break it in that way. Then reinstall the inner springs after break in.

[@ab-qh6ip]

@@EdelbrockUSA what is this video if not tech advice?

[@Texasmule]

Nah just use stock springs, especially if the motor already used flat tappet

[@ronaldwarren1267]

Always replace cam bearings and check clearance of followers in there bores in block

[@johnhutsenpillerjr1785]

Good VIDEO !!! A roller cam is truly the way to go but sad the zink has been eliminated because of pollution controls and epa crap that done nothing but cause trouble !!!

[@markuskorpela7896]

John Hutsenpiller Jr Flat tappet cams need zddp is a myth! What is important is oils Film stenght how much it can take psi 100.000 and More is the way To go Read here 540ratblog.wordpress.com Tulokset internetistä 540 RAT - Tech Facts, NOT Myths

[@scottwheaton9689]

FYI,there are plenty of oils avail today with proper zddp/zinc & phos level for any type Hdy or mech FT cam & lifter setup.

[@davidkeeton6716]

​@scottwheaton969 And plenty of failures too. Almost never heard of a cam or lifter failure in the 70s and 80s. I sold over a hundred cams in 10 years in the auto parts and speed parts business. Never heard of a failure. They would have come to me looking for blood. The products aren't the same as they were then.

[@howlinhog]

He had to have simply misspoke when he said concave, right?

[@rollbot]

Your animation at the begining shows a convex lifter but you sat concave. Which is it?

[@davidkeeton6716]

I came here to say this. A worn out lifter will be concave. The concave surface on the lifter rides on a slightly angled cam surface along with lining up slightly off from directly centered on the lobe. This makes the lifter spin as it is supposed to.

[@scottrobertson6949]

Sorry but you need to learn what concave and convex really are and then edit your comment😮

[@rollbot]

@@scottrobertson6949 I just ate a whole stick of butter

[@frankc1174]

So, dont sink the lifters in oil?

[@victorvillarreal1110]

I change my stock camshaft to compcam and now the gas pump it is doing nothing on my 68 impala 327sbc now I don't know how to fix the problem looks like fuel pump rod its not doing the work can you help me with this problem. Thks

[@robertclymer6948]

Just wondering, Can one use solid flat tappet lifter with a hydraulic flat tappet camshaft rather then hydraulic flat tappets? Providing all the other componets match ok? Thank you!!

[@wreckanchor]

no

[@heavychevy2289]

What if you have tripple springs? Do you need to take out the inner spring? To break the engine in?

[@KingJT80]

yes you should be doing that.

[@davidkeeton6716]

You absolutely need to single up the valve springs during the initial cam break in. ESPECIALLY NOW DAYS. They don't make them like they used to. You are really gambling high stakes dice rolling with any flat tappet cam.

[@chevymalibu8072]

Hey guys I need help I put a new performer cam in my 305. I had problems with my exhaust manifold when i started the engine up 3-4 times but i had to turn it off because it was extremely loud. Now my mechanic dirve the car before the break in in his shop. His shop is 1mile away. Did he ruin my engine? The engine is stock, only cam and valve springs are not original. Sorry my englisch is bad... Thx for help!

[@EdelbrockUSA]

Please contact our Tech department. We do not offer tech advice on KZbin.

[@TheJhaley12]

I bought a new Blueprint Engine, 350/372 hp and the directions say to break the cam in etc. I have a question, the engine was put on a dyno for at least 30 minutes that's how I know the hp so why isn't the cam already broken in? It is a flat tappet by the way. This doesn't make sense to me. Also Hedman headers recommended that I not install NEW headers on the new engine because of the heat from the HTC coating on them (High Temp Coating) it could cause the rings to not seat properly. None of this makes sense to me when I know this engine has been on a dyno and was hooked up to headers. Any idea's on this?

[@EdelbrockUSA]

If the engine was dynoed already, It must have gotten broken in prior.

[@dougwalp6609]

TheJhaley12 cv

[@TheReinoPaasonen]

Why you are advicing in YouTuBe? You should contact tech department!

[@wolfeman6380]

What if a guy was installing one of your computer friendly cams into a TBI gm SBC truck that has the timing advance wire on the fire wall or under the dash, would you do the break in with that wire unplugged set to 0 degrees or is it a guessing game with it plugged in?? on initial start up..?? Thoughts because I kno if the timings off it could get Hott quick.

[@Nak3dPirat3]

Run a carburetor instead of a tbi lol

[@matthennessy3692]

What did you set the TBI timing on at on start up and did you pull the wire. I am tackling this project this week end.

[@sega2229]

@@matthennessy3692how did it go?

[@matthennessy3692]

@@sega2229 I think my timing was a bit advanced on start up because it got hot quick but I let it run for the break in period. As long as she will run I say fire it up and break it in and then adjust the timing. My truck is happy at 0TDC. I tried a little advanced and it had some “timing rattle”.

[@selfmade8238]

Once the cam is broken in what kind of oil to use?

[@cuzz63]

Use the oil you normally use. Some people prefer to use a SAE 30 non-detergent motor oil to break in a newly built engine. After that change the oil/filter to what you prefer.

[@Terminxman]

Something like Lucas or something with extra zinc, if not, you can get a zinc additive and add it to off the shelf oil

[@pmd7771969]

He did not mention spring pressre

[@C_71]

If this guy works for Edelbrock then how is his information wrong?

[@curt8641]

He may be in the Maketing department and not a mechanic,

[@ronsmith7739]

Buy a roller lifter and be done with it !!!!!!

[@REPENTINCHRIST]

If the engine is shut down before atleast 20 minutes the lobes WILL BE WIPED DOWN!!! Had a flywheel touching the bellhousing causing a ruckus on break in once, so I killed it after about 2 minutes, fixed the issue finished break in, and on inspection of the lift with a dial indicator it wiped off 0.070" , so now the lobes were stock lift😞. I have been through the ASE engineering courses through college and ASE break in standard requires 40 minutes at 2000-2500 rpm. DO NOT KILL BEFORE 20 MINUTES short of extreme overheating or a permanent damage occuring. Unless its going to leak dry and burn up before break in DO NOT SHUT DOWN!!!!

[@mcrowley8460]

last year i broke in a lunati cam in a 350 and one of the spark plug wires caught fire i ripped it out and it continued to short on the master cyl for the rest of the break in, show must go on!

[@jladder4311]

I had a flywheel touching the bellhousing on break in aswell. Multiple stop starts to find the problem and no wiped lobes. Luck of the draw I guess.

[@Thirdgen83]

You don't know what the hell you're talking about. And the automotive manufacturers NEVER did cam break-ins before sending new cars out the door.

[@pmd7771969]

That cad gif was wrong

[@RobertKohut]

Nice.

[@kevinblackmon6990]

Edelbrock bought comp cam Lol

[@billl.3917]

I am installing new edelbrock lifters, but am not installing a new cam, some told me I must also change the cam at the same time, is that true?

[@warrenzevonsangryghost6055]

You'll be fine.

[@rogerkoch4658]

@@warrenzevonsangryghost6055 WRONG!

[@warrenzevonsangryghost6055]

@@rogerkoch4658 Nope. In a perfect world, yeah, both ought to be new. But unless the cam is badly worn, new lifters will be fine. Just check to see that they are spinning when the engine is running (dab of paint on pushrod will tell). Old lifters on new cam, very bad (and stupid). New lifters on old cam (as long as the cam is in decent shape) is fine - check for spin. I've got ancient yellowed service TSB's from both Ford and Chevy discussing this very matter, and while they go into a lot a detail, the upshot of the deal is the degree of cam wear being the deciding factor. On properly maintained engines, no sweat. I can't imagine having to have told every customer that came into the shop with a noisy lifter back in the flat tappet days that they were gonna have to buy a new cam and pay to have that installed as well. Unnecessary, and even the engine designers agreed.

[@rogerkoch4658]

@@warrenzevonsangryghost6055 If you have TSB's I stand corrected. I would be afraid to do it with my luck though!

[@vic.smittie.5668]

Your camshaft is now either broken in, or broken! 🤦

[@mcrowley8460]

Take the rod out of a cheap chalking gun & make a oil pump priming rod for free.

[@robertclymer6948]

Or a used distributor.

[@chrissanders2562]

I cut the end off of a worn out distributor and welded it to a long bit driver for a drill.

[@pmd7771969]

Lol, so much for professionals

[@Schlipperschlopper]

Sadly soon all combustion cars and trucks including classics will be banned from public streets in entire EU and Scandinavia :-( In Germany the Green Peoples Party gave order to shorten fuel supply from 2025 on by reducing all conventional fuel stations to only one state operated central gas station per city or county. Car washs will be forbidden too because they are climate killers, now they want to slow down all the gas station pumps from 20 litre per minute to 2 litre per minute...From 2027 on in the EU certain car spare parts will be banned too....as exhaust systems, turbo chargers and even some engine and gearbox oils...California and New York will do the same from 2027 on.... So no investments should be done in oil burning cars any longer....They even created a new kind of crime here, called emissions and smoke crime.!!! (BABVVEN & TEBBVEN & BEFVO laws)!!!!!!

[@NoPaintGarage]

Screw the liberals. They are trying to do that crap in America too.

[@timferguson9005]

bullshit climate change idiots do u think the rich pricks pushing this b s are going to change their habits with their gas gussling cars and big vehicles not a chance do as they say not what they do

[@7CAJONEZ]

None of this high rpm break-in makes sense. The opposite, low rpm does make sense. No car factory ever breaks in an engine first start, not ever, for over 120 years. Start the engine, drive it to the parking lot, turn it off. How many engines have been stored for 1, 30, 70 years but start and run fine? Abandoned in a field? No lube at all, dry. The cam turns 300 rpm at 600 rpm idle. The lobes are actually pushing the lifters ~1/3 of that, duration of ~120°. So about 100 lifts per minute or 1.7 per second. You can blink or tap your finger thrice as fast, for perspective. This is trivial and breakin grease or even oil is plenty. When you raise the rpm 4 times idle you have increased the velocity at which the lobe approaches the lifter and the speed that the lobe wipes accross the lifter thus increasing friction dramatically. Like starting a fire by twisting a stick on a piece of wood slowly vs very fast. And pump oil pressure from lifter bore and crank slinging takes a few seconds. Someone should make a test rig of an engine with cam, only 2 lifters and 2 valves and springs. Put a motor turning 300 rpm on the cam with NO lubricant and measure the temperature rise vs time. If the surfaces are hardened properly there should be no wear. Then raise the rpm to 1200. A drill or a lathe tool with no lube experience much higher pressures and dont dull unless the rpm is very high. Best of all, get a sixties GMC V6, the cam is IN a pool of oil at all times. As far as rings seating, use a bit of thin oil and low rpm. Never had problems and engines I built 30 years ago still run fine.

[@maxsinger3526]

That's great man I'm sure comp cams, Edelbrock, Howard's, crane, lunati, and all the other cam companies have no idea what they're talking about. They didn't build an engine thirty years ago and offer terrible advice on a KZbin video comment section. Everyone should take your terrible advice. Especially on how splash lubrication works and friction works 👍

[@7CAJONEZ]

@@maxsinger3526 Read my comment again. Slowly. Focus, concentrate on each sentence. Then critique each one, explain where I'm wrong. After years of investigating, Powell machine and others have determined that flat tappet failure is not a hardness issue. Maybe a crown and cam slope issue, i.e. crappy machining. Powell no longer has anything to do with flat tappets. Failures began after the myth of high RPM breakin. The myth of crank slinging oil is absurd. A new cam is installed with break-in grease, that's why it's called "break-in grease", that's why Isky and others supply it with the cam. High RPM slings the grease off. The goal is to mate the contacting surfaces without excess friction. Prime the oil pump with a drill and look at the lifter bores, if they dont weep oil directly onto the cam lobe you have a problem. And a drill on the oil pump is equivalent of very low RPM.

[@jodaddysdodgegarage3533]

They clearly misspoke and mislabeled the shot. If you look at the video the dotted line under the lifter is convex but the voiceover and on screen text say concave. Producer-idiot mistake and talent is simply reading off a teleprompter.

[@davidkeeton6716]

This 7 year old information is just about useless. The quality of cams and lifters has gone to zero. The failure rate is SO HIGH in 2023-2024 with any brand of flat tappet cam and lifters. Why gamble your rotating assy? And your block and oil pump. Save your money and get everything you need to go to a roller cam, lifters, pushrods, springs. Zero break-in. Next to zero failure rate.