Hydronic Radiant Heating - Concrete Application

[@Bart-dg6qv]

3:16 Entire video is insane, but this "flat" surface might be the sweetest part. Literally everything in here screams "No!".

[@Mud-diver3139]

Attach tubing directly to insulation with clips, then rebar and mesh, to keep tubing from shearing if concrete cracks or buckles.

[@anthonyspadafora1384]

Fastening with clips also gives uniform depth which is very important when drilling anchors although using a thermal imager shows you exactly where the tube is at. So many guys cheat when it comes to the rebar.

[@tomn5880]

We have this system. Wadena Minnesota, 1,315 sq. ft. two bedroom home. Electric hot water boiler on Off Peak program. We haven't hit $600.00 for heating an entire season (Sept 15th - April 30th) in 13 years we've been the home.

[@Murphy326]

Awesome! Probably would cost half as much if it were a gas boiler. That’s what I’m going to be doing

[@tomn5880]

@@Murphy326 Our off peak rate is half the regular residential rate. Last season 19/20 our total heating cost was under $550 for the whole season. If your using gas as an energy source you have to insure you supply combustion air for the boiler. With off peak electric there is no chance of monoxide accumulation in your modern tight home. Our neighbor has a similar system and has a CO1 problem and since CO1 (carbon monoxide) is heavier than air it settles in low spaces. The neighbors have an on grade home so the house fills with monoxide. (their system does NOT breathe right) If I may offer this advise. R50 cellulose the ceiling. Heat likes to rise and cold likes to fall and treated paper does NOT loose it's R value as gravity compresses it.

[@spencerwilton5831]

Tom n Surely all boilers made in the last thirty years are room sealed? They are in Europe. I haven't seen a non room sealed boiler in decades. It amazes me how the US is so far behind in so many aspect. People still use gas water heaters with open flues?! Furnaces are massive, inefficient and non condensing. In floor heating is considered a novel technology.. in Europe it's commonplace, increasingly run via a heat pump.

[@oldporkchops]

@@tomn5880 Thank you for this advice. This is what I heard too about cellulose, that with time, it does not loose its R value. I appreciate validation of this idea.

[@tomn5880]

We also use this system (on a separate thermostat) in the garage. We keep the garage (26' x 28' ) at 40 in the bitter cold and 50 to 60 when temps are above zero to 25 f and 26 f up to 60 f. Runs off the same 15 Kw boiler.

[@tomn5880]

@@hosiahmarczuk4174 If you mix water with the polypropylene solution you may get a leak from a stone in the sub straight, nail through the concrete or a bend in the pex tubing during the install. Using a stop leak for ought to fix the system. I have an electric boiler (15,000 btu) and I can make my house like a sauna when -40 F. If you think you have a leak you would have to add solution. In summer I use a standard AC system. I also have R 50 in the attic.

[@tomn5880]

@@hosiahmarczuk4174 I'm not a jobber

[@Mullschlucker]

Why did you not lift the wire mesh and tubing as suggested in the narrative?

[@wthomas5697]

Yeah, it's pretty much worthless laying on the insulation like that.

[@YodaAz58]

Doesn't a VAPOR BARRIER have to be placed over insulation under reinforcing mesh???

[@wthomas5697]

I think it goes under the insulation.

[@swss12]

Wow, looks easy! Thanks for the video. I should be able to do this in a day it looks like!

[@dannytheplumber7394]

NO POLY VAPOR BARRIER ?

[@herptyderp4927]

yeah, and dukt tape? I was thinking there should be at least a 3mil barrier UNDER the foam.

[@herptyderp4927]

Besides that, its not like the vapor barrier is expensive. You could get enough of it to lay it down twice in two different directions, tape those seams up and really make sure it isn't going to leak anywhere. I could see getting away with dukt tape for that (in a way) but why not just admit that you are doing a pricey project and do it right?

[@macsheadroom3209]

2 inches of rigid insulation usually complies with the permeability rating equal to 6 mil so it is really unnecessary.

[@davidflorance7868]

Cut n tape your ends off right way to keep pebbles n dirt out on rough ins

[@shayson1357]

uploaded 6 years ago with the video quality and narration of 1990

[@scoutdoorsurvival]

Wire mesh directly on the insulation?

[@markusr1308]

How does the foam perform over time with heavy loads (like a truck) going over the concrete floor? I imagine that the insulation foam eventually gives in and causes the concrete to crack.

[@anthonyspadafora1384]

They do huge jet hangers with them. This is very common for companies like American Airlines that have 747s on them. They hold up fine.

[@canonicaltom]

Foam has a higher bearing capacity than the ground does.

[@hangngoaigiare]

great video, very helpful

[@wongted3130]

The copper tube it's using for hot water to go through? Can this type of system dry up the bathroom floor?

[@littlefinkle7757]

Ditch the wire mesh for a #4 rebar grid.

[@alphaomega3766]

No vapor barrier under the styrofoam? That styrofoam will turn to mush.

[@kwaskeconstruction3382]

Turn to mush =open cell insulation. Closed cell insulation is what to they're working with= doesn't absorb moisture

[@c172215s]

@@kwaskeconstruction3382 Looks Like EPS should be XPS. EPS absorbs water.

[@marksmith5977]

With the expansion and contraction of the plastic based pipework, gentle moving it backwards, is it a good idea to strap the pipework directly to the steel bars?

[@Cantspeakable]

I think they glued it in place with concrete

[@polarunion]

Ok video. Use of duct tape is not appropriate however for slab insulation. A higher quality tape is required supported by the manufacturer.

[@macsheadroom3209]

Some actually say not to tape joints and just overlap to allow moisture to escape. I used 2 layers of board and try to overlap, with the dried cement slab on it it will seal well.

[@sausanalialmusawi750]

Does wood stove effact on red radiant floor or not?

[@carydial2395]

So sorry to complain, but I see this type of installation all the time. The welded wire fabric accomplishes nothing when sitting at the bottom of a slab. Nothing. It does nothing. These people wasted money, time, and effort laying it in. So frustrating to watch.

[@tonymarrazzo354]

They said to raise the mesh to the center of the slab but they didn't show that.

[@kwaskeconstruction3382]

If you're going to the expense of using in floor heat, I'd use the good 1/4" 6x6 8' x 15' sheets. :)

[@massimo187]

how do you plan your design sheet?

[@mikeblass8919]

Is Matt Damon doing floors now?

[@oldschoolfoil2365]

yep so he gave up construction for acting career now he is mega rich and snorting coke off strippers tits

[@ThisGuysAnimation]

Who's that

[@sonnylegit]

super awkward wire remesh unrolling

[@rankoceran6976]

Sonny Lloyd s

[@relikvija]

The whole thing is little awkward but I guess it's not the sameasye when you are being filmed.

[@717Fang]

I heard Hydronic Radiant Heating pipes should be NEVER touching rebar

[@robmcghie5248]

Probably best for dispersing heat

[@henrytwigger2245]

How is that possible ? Not use re.bar ?

[@jeffsimon2144]

There are plastic clips available that post into the foam and raise the tube up off the mesh.

[@macsheadroom3209]

I think that's a myth And if it's not I would like to see the data on it.

[@donbergler1703]

@@jeffsimon2144 Thanks for this reminder, Fang Liu. Plastic and metal should not touch each other at least if you plan to outlive your system. Left-over ¾" PEX can be used as sleeve. It will be more work to cut it to 25mm length and to slit it open axially and to place over the ½" PEX. Only then should the ¾"sleeve be attached to the white mesh. Another comment is to lift the wire mesh during pouring. The wire mesh should be ideally in the middle of the concrete, not at the bottom. Another comment is the use of rebar. Rebar is structural for the integrity of the flooring. This maybe needed in places where the ground is subjected to constant movement. Wire mesh is to keep the concrete around the PEX pipe together.

[@cameronbruce1862]

Would love to do the $ math and see how much concrete it would take to store heat for ~5-7 days. A hot water tank is probably more economic. can you direct me to where I can find this information. To me heated floors are it as we dwell lower down at floor level ...and HEAT RISES! thanks for an informative video.

[@Neveragain1111-r4y]

Looks at electrodacus.com he builds solar bms for lithium and designed his house to store extra heat from pv solar panels with silicon insulated wire as the heat elements he has the math on his instructions for the dmppt for concrete heat storage

[@cameronbruce1862]

@@Neveragain1111-r4y Thanks for the reply. Will let you know what eventually I get built and its performance

[@joyannpeterson1822]

I want to buy a house that has this heating system. The house was built in 1977. What is the name of the repair man who would maintain a this for me? What are his credentials? Schooling? Rank?

[@oldschoolfoil2365]

Matt damon /actor /ivy league/50th richest actor in hollywood

[@cindykaufman4706]

Wait just a 2 minutes in to this check the design sheet to know the pipe diameter ? Duh what about flow rate and zone manifold distribution?

[@Grendelbc]

Looks to me like that mesh is just laying flat on the insulation. Pretty much defeats the purpose. I realize that pulling the mesh would lift the tubing out of the concrete but mesh does nothing unless it's IN the concrete not at the bottom.

[@heatingplumbingpolishplumb9430]

hello nice video let see few of my videos to se how the underfloor heating systems looks if you do it a lityl deferent way .I thing that the plumbing is so deferent everywer and materials for plumbing jobs ar deferent to thanks and take care.

[@darylwhittaker4971]

ok to walk all over it while pouring?

[@jeffsimon2144]

Yes, as long as you don't puncture or abrade the tube.

[@xuemengzhao841]

I think my book booking opportunity is better, because his design is more user-friendly. The aluminum foil is recommended to use thick aluminum foil composite film.

[@gumby511]

No rock?

[@econgloberfan]

Is it solar? because it looks EXPENSIVE just to warm the floor.

[@spencerwilton5831]

econgloberfan what do you mean "just to warm the floor"? The point of underfloor heating is it heats the whole space, no other heating system is required. It's more economical than conventional heating systems and provides a greater level of comfort. It's been common in Europe for decades.

[@robmcghie5248]

Two inch insulation? 4inch min better 200mm. Hydronic you mean to say underfloor heating.

[@rupe53]

Hydronic is the term associated with a liquid in a heating system. In this case it would be water or a water / antifreeze mix. "Underfloor" would mean it's under the slab, not within the slab. I have seen forced warm air systems installed under a floor, but they still need registers (vent openings) and whatever you put under the slab is prone to failure. In the old days (pre 1970) these warm air systems used something similar to sono-tubes that were coated with a wax substance. You can see how that might degrade over time, collapse, and restrict the flow.

[@macsheadroom3209]

That depends on area of build and the coldest degree days, I am in the north and prefer R20 in a heated slab...but depending where you are R10 will suffice

[@donaldtriumph1682]

No DPM on ground first😳😳😳😳

[@mitchellgiebler3396]

dobie where you at

[@mychoclabwinston]

That wire mesh is horrible

[@cecilyt006]

Was this shot in the fucking 70s?

[@macsheadroom3209]

Check out the Super Octagon with radiant heating in crawlspace kzbin.info/www/bejne/oqe7naKfqJtoppo

[@fannywayar3752]

Stop installing that hose in summer

[@silverzone1500]

This film is a joke. Has nothing to do with today technology. This film must be from late 90'.

[@henrytwigger2245]

It's still the best way to do it.

[@Bart-dg6qv]

S O Depending on which side of the Atlantic Ocean it is. It looks like 1900-1910 in Europe or 2030-2050 in US.

[@macsheadroom3209]

There are no great change's and this is still current.

[@terrymiller5028]

Who thought duct tape was a good idea? Give your head a shake!

[@popsshops]

I'm pretty sure it's only there to keep the insulation boards together while poring the concrete. If the boards were to separate and concrete got in the crack, you'd have a thermal break.

[@hickorydragon8114]

This video was made in 1985

[@mike5559]

Are you using water? No, no nover! Use PVC and Heated Air, drive a nail though the concrete into PVC, nothing happens, lose power, no heat, no frozen water, to problem. This is old school radiant heat, much better ways using concrete over insulated foam, 4" PVC, and you can run electric, wood stove with air valve and blower, or solar to drive electric. I'm still researching, but don't put water under concrete other than your plumbing, make sure you have a drain for water systems in case you decide to make it seasonal. Good Luck!

[@robertbalkovec4087]

Lol

[@trentsnow7]

waste of money