I Accidentally Built a Working Transmission... (but it's still kind of bad)

[@60NineK]

try swapping the clutch gears to the output If you do that the smallest gear won’t get spun up past 10K because the larger gear will only be spinning as fast as the smaller gear spins from the engine output since it’s disconnected from the transmission output aka faster speeds and transmission knock. NGL I’ve learned something very valuable from this video

[@Tom89194]

He doesn't have many options for sizes on the clutch gears... There are only 8t, 12t, 16t, 20t, and 24t versions with a clutch and he is using 8t-40t for 1rst gear, he has to reduce the speed on the input of the transmission to keep this type of transmission from blasting the first small gear over 10k. You do have a point about using the clutch gears on the output shaft, because if he uses a fixed 2:1 or 4:1 ratio between the engine and transmission he will need to use smaller gears on the output shaft in the transmission and thus using the clutch gears would be possible. He could also get less spread on the gear ratios. Then just add another fixed gear ratio after the transmission to bring the wheel speeds to what he wants to have.

[@60NineK]

@ yes.. unfortunately I know that limitation in sized.. sam is always adding new parts though. will be cool if he compartmentalizes them by gear type with sizes in the compartments.. maybe Imll recommend it as more sizes for each style of gear is made and calibrated to the right size for visual meshing

[@Defianthuman]

@@Tom89194 i think he means just swap them, same ratios just have the clutch on the output shaft(gears on top go on bottom, gears on bottom go on top.)

[@Tom89194]

@@Defianthuman There is no 40t clutch gear to make that work, Kan is using the smallest 8t clutch gear with a 40t spur gear to make first gear. Since there is not 40t clutch gear he cannot make that gear ratio with the clutch gear on the output, and if he moves the 40t spur gear to the input the 8t clutch gear to the output, then the gear ratio will be so high he wont move in 1st gear.

[@Tom89194]

@@60NineK That would be neat to have more options, but I assume there is no torque limitation for the gears, or efficiency loss. If that is the case there is little to lose by using a fixed gear ratio to bring the engine rpm down and giving you more options for gear ratio selection anyway. I would rather see more odd gear sizes to allow you to grab more realistic gear ratio spacing. Currently you are rather limited on gear ratios that fit on the same input/output shaft spacing. If you want a nice gear ratio spread you need to have a 3 or 4 shaft transmission so that you can have different shaft spacings to get desirable ratio spreads.

[@Monte-bb2ip]

If you change the simulation accuracy it can help with the transmission knock you are having. Press 0 and go to the settings while holding q. Whenever I have problems I just move the sliders to the max.

[@andrewslater6846]

Will this work on my car in real life?

[@ИльяВитцев]

Also attaching the axle at both ends helps a lot when applicable.

[@paranormal1134]

Gears cap at 5000 rpm just reduce gearing before the trans and get it to the right rpm before the diff The problem with this clutch gears its the 2000 nm cup, if u lower the fearing too much it breaks With a sequential gearbox u have more liberty with gears ratios

[@Zimon_Sombie]

@@andrewslater6846 No, sadly, it won't... We're still running on an ancient game engine that was made billions of years ago! And you thought Bethesda was bad.

[@ИльяВитцев]

@@paranormal1134 The gears don't really cap at 5k, your simulation does. Press 0 and up the sim frequency in the Q settings. The torque (and any property, really) can be adjusted by right-clicking and typing in an enormous value.

[@lucianoperalta7729]

I started playing this game like two months ago after seeing one of your videos, and I built this exact engine and transmission. I've been trying to solve this for weeks. This is so sick to see on KZbin. Great video dude.

[@blueflame_sm]

From personal experience, keep RPM below 8000 or explode. No other options. Well, you can slightly improve it by decreasing the simulation timestep (or increasing the frequency idk what metric they use) And honestly you don't even need to get close to that RPM. 2400RPM at the wheels, which for an F1 car is 67cm in diameter, gets you to just over 300 km/h. So no need to gear up at all. I'd only do it to mimic a real gearbox, which usually only have like 2 gears above the 1:1 ratio if I'm not mistaken. Anyways, I've done an automatic before, you've done automatic as well. Those were made using centrifugal clutches. Recently I've built fully mechanical automatics where you have the engine fighting a suspension piece. There are so many ways to make an auto-shifter. You can have a centrifugal clutch read the engine RPM, then have it spin a beam one way or the other depending on RPM. There are so many cool things you can do purely with centrifugal clutches and sliding pieces. Honestly I'd have to show you some time.

[@Evildaddy911]

What I've found is that the clutch-type parts - the centrifugal clutches, brakes, clutch gears - are actually 2 bodies. You can actually see them stretch apart if you screw up enough, and it seems that this connection is weaker, or at least more susceptible to high speeds, than other connection types. You might have noticed the centrifugal clutches are much more stable than gears, but they do suffer from this issue. For these, both bodies - input side and output side - have a connection point and can be held in place that way. The clutch gears however, only the center body that mounts to the axle can be supported, while the teeth body is unsupported. This is problematic because they act like real life, in that they are generating a tangential force on each other that the rotating connection turns into torque. That means that any time they are meshed to another gear and something is spinning, the teeth are trying to pull away from the shaft and well, Unity gonna Unity. The issue with the clutch gears also comes up with the x2 centrifugal clutch sometimes. If you take the output shaft and put it into a gear, that gear and clutch body are now unsupported just like the teeth side of the clutch gears. You can get around that with the bigger gears by using their other mounting holes to attach a shaft to the backside of the gear.

[@Pystro]

If that's the issue, then a solution could be to input a force from opposite sides of those clutch gears (or take the output from both sides of those clutch gears).

[@JohnTerreault]

Change output of engine speed by gearing down before transmission and then back up after transmission. That's what I do for semi compact transmissions, and it does well.

[@bombay999WT]

nice to see you back in this game KAN! still waiting on more tank stuff though

[@rpmgalaxy5986]

Finally I was waiting so long until you made a transmission haha

[@neg1t1vezer09]

For transmission control I've been using Auto Hot Key to index through a list of keypresses that correspond to the desired gear. For instance each clutch gear is controlled by numpad 0- 3 for neutral-1-2-3 and pressing up arrow and down arrow cycles through them. Also to avoid that first gear knock issue its not a bad idea to have it be disconnected from the input shaft when any other gear than it is selected.

[@severinghams]

From experience, the wobbling is NOT from soft suspension. Hard suspension, soft suspension, doesn't matter. It's caused by the torque applied to the rear wheels making the rear wishbones slightly toe in. So when they toe in, you're going forward, and say the right wheel gains a bit more traction, it'll slightly pull to the right because it's basically steering your car right. (because it'a rear wheel turning to the left) That causes the weight to be thrown onto the left wheel, which is steering the other way, so it turns slightly left, and then that throws the weight on to the right wheel, etc. lnly real fix for that is to widen the connection points along the axis on the wishbone shaft that connects to the chassis, so basically think of it like holding a rod horizontally with both hands with your arms straight out in front of you (easy to torque it from your hands) vs putting your arma further apart. I hope i'm not overexplaining it, i just want to be sure my point gets across. I build my cars with live axle rear suspension, so I don't really run into this problem

[@atomic...]

Found for the gears clanging together turning off part collision for the gears and the axels they rotate on helps to mitigate it though it can be vehicle dependant, as the saloon car im building doesn't experience it once oart collision is off but the hatchback i started building still experiences it occasionally. Also its better to put all your cluch gears in the gear box on the bottom axel.

[@StalJan2000]

@kANGaming I have a three tips for you for building a fast and durable gearbox in GearBlocks: 1. Clutch gears put on input(engine) axle, but not on output(driven) axle, if use this you can reach more speed on driven axle also glitching limit are higer "Clutch gears with 4+R setup when is on driven axle can reach to 4000= RPM and is max speed when remove 1 and R gears give addonal 500= RPM when added now max speed output is 4500= RPM, When is on engine axle can reach 3400= RPM and max speed when remove 1 and R gears give addonal 2400= RPM when added now max speed output is 5800= RPM", 2. If make a gearbox with reverse need use 2 clutch gears to avoid overspeed and glitching, 3. If do you really make a fast gearbox you need use reduction in input(engine) axle and use smaller radio on differencial to get a maximum speed from gearbox. And this is my all tips to make fast and durable gearbox in GearBlocks.

[@2001herne]

Just a thought - gear down before the transmission, do your shifting in the 0-1000 range, then gear back up after.

[@meisawesome12695]

Hey kAN, if you select all the parts of a construction or any number of parts in general, you can hold right click and choose "Lock Selected's Attachments" and it will keep all those parts connected as if they were one piece. This can help with keeping parts of your cars segmented like hoods and frames so you don't have to move or select tons of parts all the time. not sure if you knew this but it can definitely help when making a bunch of iterations to your vehicle and need to test them every time.

[@Pystro]

8:15 Seems to me like you need to always make the bigger gear (in a pair of two meshed gears) the clutch gear. The bigger gear will always spin at less RPM than the small gear, so if the axle that the small gear is attached to is spinning at reasonable RMP, then the big gear will also always be safe.(*) 14:35 "Did I just accidentally design a transmission that works?" I would rather say you designed a transmission without a gear in which the engine that's attached to it can spin the weight up to speed. In 3rd gear (from 14:40) the engine can't even hold the RPM. (*) For example, have 24T and 20T clutch gears and a 16T non-clutch gear on the output axle (to the differential); and then pair that with 16T and 20T non-clutch gars and a 24T clutch gear on the input axle (from the engine). That will give you gear ratios of 2:3 (1:1.50), 1:1 and 3:2 (1:0.67). (The tightest set of 3 gear ratios that you can make with this technique). Or have 24T, 20T and 16T clutch gears and a 12T non-clutch gear on the output axle paired with 8T, 12T and 16T (non-clutch) gears and a 20T clutch gear on the input axle. That will give you gear ratios of 1:3, 3:5 (1:1.67), 1:1 and 5:3 (1:0.60). (Where the last 3 gears ratios are a good bit further apart). Or with half integer distances, have 24T, and 20T clutch gears and a 16T non-clutch gear on the output axle paired with 12T and 16T (non-clutch) gears and a 20T clutch gear on the input axle. That will give you gear ratios of 1:2, 4:5 (1:1.25) and 5:4 (1:0.80). Now, since that engine can't even spin up a weight at 1:1 ratio and some of these gear ratios speed up the output, you'd probably need to go through another gear reduction (or select a very small gear to go into your differential with) so that all gears have usable speeds. It shouldn't matter if you put the fixed reduction first and then the gear box, or the other way around.

[@Melcom98]

Hi, in the last few days i have been building a 12 speed gearbox for a project. I have learned a lot about the physics of Gearblocks. The main problem is when things are not supported properly. Unfortunately you can't really get around this with clutchgears, the outside is always unsupported if it is not engaged and therefore causes problems at high rpm. The other place where problems with poor support occur is with shafts. These also start to cause problems at high revs if they are only held at one point, especially when they are short. Holding them at two points helps against this if these points are rigidly connected and at best on opposing sides of the shaft. TLDR: The way i see it, you can only completely avoid the problems with fixed gears and pistons pushing the shafts.

[@Zorbeltuss]

So if you use the starters and set them up with 0 rpm and 0 torque they're really compact and good at moving gears in a gearbox if you want to try that, of course the issue is that you need more of them if you want more than two gears, and if you compound them you need to check that gear ratios don't cancel out for optimal performance.

[@Tom89194]

I think the only reason you stopped having the knock problem is because you are not getting the engine reved up very high in 2nd or 3rd here. With an 8t-40t input gear when you get to 4k rpm in a 1:1 3rd gear your 8t gear is going to be running at 20k rpm and in 2nd gear you are hitting 10k with the 8t at 4k engine rpm I thought you originally said you were going to gear down after the engine into the transmission, but you still match the engine rpm with the input shaft. If you gear down with a fixed gear before the transmission and reduce the transmission input shaft speed you can use smaller gears inside the transmission (which should keep you from backdriving your small 1rst gear above 10k) and you might also find better gear ratios to use. then you just adjust your final gear ratio for the desired tire speeds. Also, because you are using the smallest gear with a very large gear in 1rst you eat a lot of space, but if you use a fixed 3:1 or 4:1 ratio from the engine you would be have more options for making gear ratios that are closer together in a smaller package and your 1rst gear will have a hard time getting backdriven over 10k, even if you put the engine rpm back up to 6k

[@energycrafter6806]

To get a half block offset on your beam, just use a 1x1 plate. Additionally, I have built a 9 speed sequential gearbox using 2 pairs of stepper pistons that works pretty well.

[@senorporko3299]

If you put the clutch gears on the output shaft of the transmission instead of the input shaft then the small gears are allwase spining at whatever rpm your engine is going and as long has you dont go to much thurther then a 1:1 ratio it should prevent your transmission knock issue

[@dreamwalker0902]

If your making a transmission and its a all wheel drive put a transfer case on the back of the transmission it can help reduce the speed of rpm your driveline is spinning to your differential and you can make it optional 4 wheel instead of having locked axles separate them into sections

[@nb081199]

I am by no means good at this game, but I have a couple tips, use 1x2 cylinders for axle to axle connections. for the "rod knock" using pistons and gearing down before the gearbox and up after does help, but I've also found solid rear axles to help with that. I have gotten a car to go 505mph with some of those tips.

[@nb081199]

also making axles as short as possible with lots of reinforcements help

[@Atlantis_Lord2660]

that RPM drop was so cool

[@jadenkarnatz5292]

Would love to see you build an American big rig frive train when you are more comfortable. Giant v8-v12 with a weird 12 speed transmission

[@Darkfire00798]

in some of my tests a back double wishbone is not a good idea because the wheel flex a little and the car just explodes if the engine has to much power

[@bernardoguimaraes9474]

Hey Kan, you should check Al Magma ball and plate CVT gearbox, It's a good example of how this game is amazing. Would be fun to see another approach on that design.

[@jonathandishman9593]

Lots of people avoid clutch gears all together by having revolving gear sets or using sliding transverse idlers or just using a single idler slid at an angle between two gear trees not to mention all the stuff you can do with the scripts I've built several semi truck transmissions the size of your engine with 10, 15, or 18 speeds using the transverse idler method although they are fully manual and used scripts it can absolutely be done vanilla with less gears

[@ShawnF6FHellcat]

I've spent probably about 100 hours over the last week or two trying to make an automatic transmission... I will say that it's likely possible, but very difficult to fine tune and navigate around the physics engine limitations for the mechanical logic to work properly... My approach involves using two centrifugal clutches/+ring-gears consecutively to set an upper limit and lower limit for when a gear ratio is active based on the drive shaft's RPM. After RPM conditions are met, the clutches will turn against a torsion spring with just enough power to rotate an idler into place to activate the next gear ratio. Once the upper limit is reached, the prior clutch will disengage, making the spring move the gear out of place. This is still a work in progress, but I think I have a new idea that uses the same principle more efficiently and without taking the entire chassis length... I'll update if it works (if I remember, that is).

[@J-Playz1234]

Hello kAN great video as always

[@r3lease866]

The engine your built is actually a "Flat-6" and not a Boxer. This is because you have shared crank journals between piston pairs and not split. The only way to make a true boxer in this game is too have 2 crankshafts inside of eachother flipped 180 degrees apart. You can hear the engine being oddfire because of this, since technically it's a 180 degree V6 and not a Boxer.

[@meisawesome12695]

I'm not usually one for semantics, but being a Subaru guy, definitely for this correction. Boxer's called boxer because of the pistons on each side mimicking a boxer's punches. So unless they have boxing on alien planets.... boxers only have 2 arms like the rest of us lol

[@snickelman]

You can actually make a "true" boxer totally legit, if you use the large piston heads and the small cranks, then offset the two sides.

[@John-dh2ku]

Change the clutch gears to the output shaft to eliminate the overspeed issue.

[@thatgingar8765]

Use a work gear to move the output gears back and forth to disengage and engage different gears, just have to space the output gears so as you move the gear axle it’ll mesh with the input axle and output axle, does mean you’d need a seperate axle for the drive gears though

[@sheri9516]

4:33 you mean PORSCHE's boxer? PORSCHE POWER BABY!! 🫵🏻🤟🏻

[@anonymusdennis]

take a look at the fischer technik community online, it basically is this game but in real life, It is/was a huge hit in my childhood (2008)

[@sortius_]

Why not have two clutch gears meshing, turn both off when the gear is not in use? It's really not an efficient way to do it, but it may be your only option to get rid of the knock.

[@davidannen7448]

If you make your output gears clutched, the small input gears will only ever spin as fast as the engine.

[@crazybones1997]

i use for shifting the logitech G29 clutch/ H-shifter, with that you dont need to press 2 buttons for shifting

[@osmacar5331]

F6 not a B6. A boxer has two pistons paired on 180° actually opposed. Or said simpler, the part of the crank the Connecting rod connects to has a counter weight next to it.

[@Atlantis_Lord2660]

13:47 MONEY SHIFT

[@KillerCamino]

The gearing ratio is pretty realistic just need to add the differential and the Gearing of that should make it perfect if the game likes realism or not My car has a 3 speed and the Gearing is 2.5:1 1.5:1 and 1:1 but the 6 speed I want to put in starts at 3.36:1

[@critterproformance1824]

Turn the volumetric efficiency on the heads to get more power

[@MikeD.7]

Love the videos keep it up

[@slowlikeabrow8329]

Or maybe have 2 gears on separate shafts being activated by the engine gear and then have it mesh with another gear on the drive shaft.

[@Austriantrainguy]

What happened to all the Hyce coop projects that suddenly got dropped and your last Railroads Online?

[@ExoPhaz]

Kan, You coul probably make an automatic transmission with centrifugal clutches that engage in a certain way

[@tyreni]

I always go gear-to-gear, no clutch gears or belts. Always vanilla with default constraints. My designs aren't as compact but they never clang lol.

[@delavanty]

Im wondering why hes making a transmission like this....

[@timehunter9467]

Is it a true boxer engine or just a flat 6? Both are cool engines. The gearbox/transmission isn’t bad though.

[@pws3rd170]

Can you please sort the channel playlist oldest to newest? It would make it easier to watch through in chronological order

[@darkwatersband]

Need the clutch gears on the output shaft

[@CJ2225CJ]

HOW TO SOLVE ROD NOK i also ran into this problem and i solved It with a gear ratio before the transmission so the gears spin slower then if you want more speed you do another ger ratio after the transmission EZ fix 👍

[@slowlikeabrow8329]

Couldn't you have another set of gears to act as a neutral position between the gear shifts so it transitions better and doesn't cause as much as if it all nocking? Like IRL manual Transmitions have a clutch that needs to be engaged at the right rpm to be able to put the vehicle into the next gear. Couldn't you make a system that does the same thing?

[@-aid4084]

Idk why but I've been struggling to make radial engines work, they spin but the throttles don't change angle and it never starts, reverse motor directions nothing worked.

[@sengertrystan6003]

Why not using a triple axle with a reversing gear at the end of the gearbox. This could transmit more ratio and be tuned with gear activation from the first and the third axle.

[@ElnathanYoong]

Could u fit a flat 12 in it? The engine bay is long Nd the flat 12 isn't very hight too, sooooo... Would that work????

[@nigatta]

thats the same issue i ran into building a 4 speed tractor

[@PlaneCereal]

I curious how a flat/boxer 8 would sound

[@TheBananaman491]

so i made a transmission recently i used 2 stepper pistons but my engine was mounted on the end of the pistons because it was electric it worked but doubt it would work too well with a fuelled engine the transmission i built had 5 gears because i used medium linear actuators so it was limited to that much because it started at 0 then stepped up in steps of 0.25 forward and 0.13 outward to mesh with the gears going from spur gear x1 to spur gear x5 because my input gear moved to mech with the next gear it was always the same gear i used a spur gear x2 for that so i had a little space. you could use the longer actuators or connect multiple for more gears but didnt need too i just mess around and see what i can make i dont care for making things pretty

[@justwandereuk8976]

Kan I'm Autistic i use to works on mustang in uk but I become soo unwell now can't work but my Autistic stop me from doing stuff can u show me on video how build v8 for the game is it to build cars on the game

[@user-es6wn6pz3e]

My brother in Christ, just put the clutch gears on the bottom.

[@60NineK]

my brother in crust be nice

[@ElnathanYoong]

Wait. If u can't fit the transmission in the front, move it to the back so it's basically mid transmission so u have more space to put the transmission in

[@jammiedodger7040]

You should play automation.

[@ScottaHemi440]

build a ford bronco to put it in!

[@ElnathanYoong]

Wait i have gears prob so it still has torque ( tho this might not work) : 8t-56t 12t-48 20t-40t 20t-20t 20t-12t So there's ya gears!

[@LordSethrik]

I think your gear ratios are too apart for that to be usable in a build, i made a 3 speed using much closer ratios and first had alot of wheelspin, while 3rd had zero power

[@gamerofiguassu]

Day 28 of asking Kan to play grasslands hide & seek map

[@Mostafa-vs8bd]

Build a truck to easy work on and install and change parts. Do some research and build good thing

[@nyspace1]

404. words not found. WOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOW *check to see if last word , was a word... word not found.

[@pejot5730]

Hi kAN

[@MightyBeast1244]

Bro me and you need to talk I know how to build a compact nice working manual transmission with reverse and everything

[@tylerphillipsphillips720]

Ware are the trains

[@the_L533]

that's flat not boxer

[@anun7158]

LOL