I added diodes to my alternator and this happened

[@markroberts715]

Did the same. I ordered a multi pack kit and tried several different comobos,nowI sit no lower than 13.2 full tilt and about 15.6 at 2.5k.rpm. but u also have cap bank and 97ahr bat bank too

[@Mr.Weatherspoon]

Its sensing the battery closest which is the front battery. Can't tell what you have in trunk or if you have a second battery. But you can run a remote wire from the battery sense to the battery in the back. This will bring the alternator up and down when you need it. Instead of it always being kicked up by a resistor. And its the old school way before they did resistors and external adjustable regulators. I would try from the alternator side wire sense to the back battery. And if it doesn't change and it seems like the PCM is controlling it I would do the car side of the wire sense to the back battery. And the PCM should kick the alternator up.

[@xavior718]

Voltage doesn’t increase with HO alternators. Only the amperage capacity/limit is increased. So if stock is 130 amps then it can handle loads up to 130 amps only. 250 amp HO alternator would be able to handle pass 130 up to 250 amps. The voltage would basically be about the same. The battery should be receiving a max of about 14.7 volts. Voltage higher than that would degrade the battery faster.

[@inco-gneito7543]

I question that charging over 14.7 volts degrades battery life. I have recently converted to lto, but I have an xs power d3400 battery that I bought in 2017 that is still perfectly fine and not swollen at all. It was charging at a constant 15.1 volts on a 320 amp alternator. The highest charge I seen was at 15.3 volts and the battery is still fine 6 years later and still started my car perfectly fine. I also never charged it before putting it in my car. I just put it in when I got it, made sure the car started, and went on with my life. Never any problems charging at 15.3 volts and down. We have even had temps in the single digits or lower over the last 7 years and it still started my car. Even last year when it was extremely cold christmas eve. Also that battery has been out of my car with no charge at all for well over a week and is still resting at 12.6 volts as it should.

[@johnoates3326]

I had a rare electrical 290 alt and my truck is computer controlled charging so it was a waiste of money...i ended up adding 3 more frame grounds to my truck and adding 2 935 cranking amp batteries in my tool box and that seems to work good as long as like once a month i top off my batteries on my charger

[@festivedude1525]

Run the strip to the alt and the other end to the positive bolt on the alternator

[@marke.8334]

Do you know if that works for internally regulated alternators?

[@BassBrotherBuild]

Same thing happened to me. I have. A370 amp alternator and it's suppose to charge at14.8 but won't go higher than 14.4 so I put 2 diodes in and it still the same. I've been tryin to figure out what overriding my alternator and what I can do. It's a 2000 bmw 528i

[@onesikm3]

Who did you buy a 370amp alt from for the e39 ?

[@marcusstanley9317]

Might have to get a fat boy voltage regulator, I've seen JerryAintLoud use them on his channel with his builds. I have no idea how to install it or how it works but he can turn his voltage up or down. If you message him maybe he could get you going in the right direction Bro

[@nathanpressler9790]

Prolly need more?

[@srhabb]

Did you put it in backwards?

[@RyanBassForLife]

I have no clue what you are doing in this vid but cool.

[@kdogg071]

I just watched a video he said the arrow always points towards the battery. All the other videos says the arrow points towards the alternator. 👉🏾👈🏾 guess I’ll have to try it both ways.

[@BassBrotherBuild]

I have the same problem with my 2000 BMW 528i. Even the alternator was set to charge at 14.8 and it still charges at 14.2 and added diodes too and still 14.2 the voltage regulator is in the factory alternator and they say it's not ECM controlled but something is regulating it. I tried to do a externally regulated it the voltage just climbed with the rpms and had it internally regulated cause the company send me 2 external regulators and both did the same so they just made it internally like stated in the beginning it was set at 14.8 but only charges 14.2. If anyone can help me I will pay or whatever to charge at 15.5-16. I'm having them send me another external regulator and gonna try to build a bracket for a second and run it completely separate so I can run 15.5-16 volts but would like to charge that way without having to go that route.

[@marke.8334]

Is your alternator originaly internally regulated or externally?

[@bernytheboss]

Internally that's why he adding diodes to boost it.

[@marcusstanley9317]

I searched fat boy voltage regulator on KZbin and there's a couple of videos on it by BassGod and a couple more by different channels if it helps.

[@knowplay3258]

As an ASE Master Tech specialize in auto 12v electrical, look for my post on the video regarding adding just such a diode on the 5yo video from Sub Human Sounds. I say this just to save me the time of typing it all again. I explain why you should NEVER do this for the small increase in voltage. For powering electronics, maintaining proper voltage while increasing amperage is what you want, not increase voltage. Go look for the post I spoke of above and DO NOT TRY THIS "MOD"!

[@knowplay3258]

And btw, Ford doesn't use self exciting regulators. No, it isn't internally regulated by the PCM like Chrysler and other vehicles, but uses a "control" wire from the PCM to excite the regulator to the needed amount depending on power consumption. If you haven't fried anything yet...STOP!! REMOVE THE DIODE!! Repair the harness back to stock and look into adding a secondary battery.

[@inco-gneito7543]

@@knowplay3258 It's a hobby homie. People should do what puts the biggest smile on their face at the end of the day. Some people like to enjoy their work, some like to push their equipment to see what it takes to blow it up, some like to see the cheapest way to get more power, and some follow every single rule in every single text book or believe what every "professional" told them is correct. The fact is that every build is different and no one knows your build like you do. You try something and see if it works. You learn as you go because it's a HOBBY, there are no directions. You can tell me all this mathematical stuff you learned and how you are a "master", but I have a car that has been charging an AGM battery for over 6 years at 15.3 volts cold, and 15.1 volts normal. I have had no problems with the car or the battery. The battery is also over 6 years old now. So let me ask you the "master"... Why does it work in my car and why is the battery is still perfectly fine after 6 years of charging at 15.1 volts constantly on a 320 amp alternator? How can an agm battery last that long with the amount of demand I pull from it in extremely hot temps sitting in direct sunlight for over 8 hours a day, and sitting in 0 degree weather for over 8 hours a day and still start my car perfectly fine after over 6 years of that abuse?

[@MrCreeper724]

Kinda have to do this when you run cmax… people been runing it fine for years

[@Soundbuild2024]

5 years strong!

[@nathanpressler9790]

So what do I need to do to go from 13.5 to 14.8? Idle

[@lee28.78]

Hope it helps👍👍👍

[@lee28.78]

Put the end of the of the diode with the line pointed toward the alt

[@ptakcaraudiochannel2675]

I did I tried it both ways, stripe towards alternator was same and the other way dropped the voltage by .3

[@crunkjuice29]

Its because you need a PCM bypassed regulator.