I Bent the Carry All Frame - How Bad Is It?

[@leewinegar929]

Northern Tool makes a bolt on attachment for drawbar that you can also hook your top link up to item number 12471 model number 7350-1. Or Tractor Supply or Rural King makes an even better square steel 3 point hook up with receiver built in. Careful you have no down pressure so the trailer tongue could ride up if it gets raised up to high or something stops a wheel when you are backing up. Should put one of those shackles in the actual tow bar on tractor to pull with. You can bend your 3point arms if you get to raring around with some big load.

[@DanielAtkinsFirewood]

Trailers come in handy plus it can hold & haul more wood than the carry all frame would ever do..

[@benoitchartrand5772]

I love the idea of using the frame as pallet forks and easily convert to and back to a carry all.

[@MacBailey]

Put a stack of washers to keep the arm over on the end of the drawbar. That should push the anti-rotation lock over enough so that it does its job. If you have a small weld shop around they could straighten out you frame and weld some additional angle or tubing to strengthen the frame, and probably be better than anything you could buy.

[@kurtwernberg8474]

I have the same carry all. I built my box big enough to carry a face cord. That angle iron where the top link connects really starts flexing when it's 3/4 full so I limit my load to just over 1/2 face cord when I'm bouncing around in the woods and closer to 3/4 in the level wood yard. It needs to get beefed up.

[@dj-nr8nm]

If you're looking for a change, try a set of pallet forks on the back and then make whatever you need to fit on the forks. Clamp on bucket forks are very useful too. Great video!

[@GeoffPSU]

I would mount a large box onto that carry all permanently with a saw carrier for going into the woods to cut and haul wood, and buy another one if you want to have one for switching on and off. I built a couple of carry all boxes for different tasks and I mounted wheels on my carry all boxes, and I just slide under them and go, they aren’t permanently attached to my carry all frame, and the wheels let me move it around in the shop easily.

[@drmautz]

Good reason to buy torch set. It will be a useful tool for your shop.

[@stevekeller9492]

Hi Dan...yeah those angle iron frames are kinda light in my opinion. Have you looked at any 3 point hitch pallet forks? Their a bit more money, but obviously much heavier. You could probably slide those under your carry all unit, with little modification. You would also have the added benefit of using the forks to lift other items(logs, pallets etc.) as well. I've seen 3 pt forks advertised with a 2000 lb capacity. Just a thought!

[@edsmith4414]

And for a carry all (which you're right, is quite handy) I use one built of wood on a pallet like base. It is a free standing unit, you simply run your front or read forks into the pallet section (I used 2x6's for the runners between top and bottom boards so it's easier to "hit" when running forks in....normal pallet is 3 to 3 1/2"). Added a scrap of 8" PVC pipe bolted in one corner to hold handle tools like axe or shovel, etc. Added a scrap piece of tarp on top, attached at the top and kept rolled up, so if it starts to rain while I'm out, it can roll down over the whole thing to cover. One could come up with all kinds of custom mods to fit whatever one does. I carry my saws/etc to the woods, simply set the whole pallet off somewhere close and go to work. Lousy out of focus photos, but you get the idea: uniim1.shutterfly.com/ng/services/mediarender/THISLIFE/003080452239/media/44590217425/large/1559864527/enhance I was installing some solar panels, put them on the front forks, the pick up the carry all, and it holds the panels in place nicely for the trip to the mounting place......plus tools & hardware. uniim1.shutterfly.com/ng/services/mediarender/THISLIFE/003080452239/media/44590217412/large/1559864526/enhance

[@Zeke-yv3nw]

Its bent and twisted, not broken. Use it until it won't work anymore. Every one I've seen used was like this coming from a farmer with experience. One thing I know, that some hell of good welds since the angle iron twisted and the welds held.

[@timthompson5885]

Wow that carryall has definitely seen better days!! It could definitely be fixed but at what price and how much time!! Also if it needed to be heated up you take away quite a bit of strength from the metal! If it was me i would just buy a new one and like you said weld up some cross members and beef it up! Hope all is well my friend!! Stay safe!!

[@jaredhildebrandt7210]

My thoughts, a three point quick hitch, a custom built frame, or carry the carryall on the forks. With the carryall on the forks you can pull the trailer and have all your stuff. Plus it can be raised to bench height for sharpening the chain. PS... I know a welder LOL 😆 take care Shifty

[@tpctrash]

I’m sure it can be fixed cheaply and reinforced with added cost but you would have a better one then you could buy after the fix. Check around and see if there is a local guy that could fix it. That would be my first choice. Good luck.

[@WSTMike]

If you have a 6-pack, torch with a heating tip and an afternoon free of nothing to do, you could try to fix it. Otherwise, I would wait for spring. When you do get the new one, reinforce it prior to use. My Carry All is only good for 1000# payload, lifting or pulling. Can't imagine yours was much different? Neat draw bar widget for anti-rotation. Thx for the vid as always, Dan.

[@brendontiell5952]

Since you don’t need to have it be convertible anymore is it possible to weld a skidsteer plate to the basket part and use the carryall with more wood as intended. Then you have two tools. I built a quick attach carryall to use in place of my bucket and now I rarely use my material bucket. Mine holds a facecord of splits and really speeds my operation up. As in dumping them in the side of your wood shed or in your trailer or lots of big rounds out of the woods

[@mikeadams2339]

You have options! Great feedback from welding to good hammer her out. Im thinking for your forks or a grappler you could beef her up as a counter weight tool holder? Don't scrap just cause she iz tweaked a bit.

[@rodneysweetnam8653]

Hi Dan - it's Big Rodders in Ireland. From here it all seems fixable. Level the two tongs with your front loader filled with some weight. The left upright could be straightened with a bit of heat and you swinging a 14lb sledgehammer. Cut out the top link and then the two tabs for the pin. Weld in a replacement piece of angle iron, perhaps with a second one piggybacking it then weld on your two tabs. Alternatively, buy a new Carry All for €150 and cannibalise the old one to make a new Carry All to fit over the trailer Y frame, facing forward, either fixed or removable. If you are going to tow the trailer behind the Carry All, get a towbar made up that will attach to the main tractor hitch so that takes the brunt of the weight, diverting pressure away from the top link. Meanwhile - Keep on Splitting!

[@rodneysweetnam8653]

Dan - Big Rodders again. Forgot to mention your new towbar gadget. Apply a bit of heat at the angle to make it more acute, which may enable you to mount the second bolt. Also, when you press the gadget as close to the ball hitch that it will go, mark the bar and drill it for a bolt/roll pin that will prevent it from drifting towards the swivel pin. I trust that makes sense to you. Cheers and Good Luck!

[@Back40Firewood]

That's a good idea to drill a hole to keep that drawbar lock over on the drawbar...thanks for that feedback. 😀 👍 🍻

[@rodneysweetnam8653]

@@Back40Firewood Hi Dan - Big Rodders again. As the old joke goes over here - "we might be green, but we ain't stupid"! It's all a question of ducking, diving and adapting. Will be interested to learn what route you take regarding the Carry All. My preference would be to buy a new one and use the old one to both make up a Carry All on the front of the trailer and to reinforce the new one. A reappraisal of you trailer towing process would ensure the problem does not reoccur.

[@edjackson8425]

Put a few washers over your left 3 point pin, outside the arm and inside the hitch pin. That will pull the draw bar closer to the left arm so the draw bar lock doesn’t slip off.

[@toddsoutsideagain]

Good morning Shifty! As far as the draw bar lock, just take a bungee around it and go over to the hitch on the tractor. That way it’s easy to take back off.

[@wingnutt50gh]

On the draw bar lock, I would just increase the bend a little bit, then you can use both mounting holes.

[@ronaldpotts7436]

A stump jack or bottle jack and a good chain will straighten the carryall right up.

[@keithmueller2857]

Now that you have that carry all off you can use the back of the tractor and you do have your bucket to carry all your stuff!

[@ronaldpotts7436]

Put washers on the drawbar to hold it over into the lock.

[@oldmechanic9685]

fix it make it better if ya do it your self it will be very rewarding good video!!!

[@paulwagner5367]

I don't think he has a welder?

[@vernonleenc]

Maybe try a big tool rack

[@krazykeltic8103]

look into "Big Tool Rack" several other you tuber's have been blessed with them and they seem to be very happy with them. maybe you could notify them the company that you are lacking and can provide exposure for them. Trailer hitch is part of the unit

[@rickvaughan8993]

Big tool rack is way over priced in my opinion! And the you tubers you mentioned having them. Well not too many seem to be using them. They show them advertise them. But never see using them again. So there is that!

[@realairplane261]

Rick, well said. I built a carry all alot better than what they sell. On Out Door With The Morgans, they delivered a carry all with all the fan fair. Motor Mike Morgan paraded it around a couple of days and then it got parked some where and not seen again. Hhhmmmm!

[@zacharygross460]

It will be just fine

[@sawsurgeon]

Hey Shifty, I would advise against purchasing a new one unless it was designed better featuring heavier materials and had reinforcement built into the design. You could align the forks by means of either applying a load to the fork which is higher or apply upward pressure to the lowest fork, possibly with Senior's loader tractor. I'm sure Senior likely has a good option for ya. Bless'ns to ya, Tedd

[@Back40Firewood]

Yeah I think if I did get another one it'd just end up the same unless it was really modified with heavier steel...and then it would probably be more cost effective to just start from scratch...oh I'm sure Senior would have multiple tricks up his sleeve to try to bend that back. Or he'd just laugh & say 'pff Chinese steel...send it to the scrap yard!' hahahahaha

[@christhomas9837]

I would think you can fix the 2 side pins with a pipe clamp. Up top I would cut out the angle iron, cut the connector off and weld a stronger piece back on. Things are much easier to fix sitting on my couch LOL.

[@reesegary]

You been using it bent for some time now. I would just keep using it. It's working just fine. A new one is just going to do the same thing over time.

[@Back40Firewood]

That's true....it still serves its purpose and yeah a new one would end up prolly the same way.

[@realairplane261]

If I lived closer, I would build you one that will not bent. That angle iron is not strong enough.

[@davidlibby7230]

Tractor Supply makes a carry all that looks like it may have a heavier duty frame.

[@stanleykeith6969]

Hey Dan, how about one on each side ? You know anyone that welds, beef it up when the fix it. It can be fixed. GO PACKERS !

[@overmysholder]

I don't know anything about carrier frames, but I'm big on GO PACKERS!

[@markdavisson6219]

That angle iron is not heavy enough for that purpose it could be heated up with a torch and pounded back out .

[@traviscover590]

I like your new video good jpp the miming go get a go get another one buddy

[@traviscover590]

Good night too you guys buddy

[@paulwagner5367]

You should talk to your guy at Wolf Ridge i'm sure there's good welder's working there.You said they were close by.Maybe one of them would want to fix it on the side for ya .Cant hurt to ask?

[@emil8786]

do it shifty!

[@haroldphipps3457]

Not worth fixing.

[@colmmythen8740]

Just cut off the flimsy bent angle and have some box welded in its place with 2 plates for the the top link pin , if you've a mate with a welder and any competence it's a very quick job to do , but for 150 or so for a replacement it's just as easy to buy a new one , stuff like that is pricey here in ireland , to buy one new would be extortionate compared to what it cost to make it from scratch

[@tombryan720]

I'm sure one of these folks will have your solution. If it was me, I would use that trailer like crazy. If you are gonna get involved with a welder anyway, maybe think about putting a box on the trailer for your tools if you have room for it. You could unhook the trailer and use your forks to load it with whole logs. I'm just glad you're not on here asking for money, that gets old in a hurry. Spit balling🔧🔩🔨📌

[@Back40Firewood]

So far the trailer is actually working out great for moving wood...thinking I might just start keeping more tools & such back in the woodyard then wouldn't need the carry all to move them around. 😀 👍 🍻

[@tombryan720]

@@Back40Firewood man you are in the gold! You should get a back 40 firewood contract for bundles at homedepot or lowes

[@kevinmason3086]

If you fixed it it would take a torch to heat is up then pound it back in shape or just buy a new one and use the metal off that one and use it on the new one to brace it better.

[@jeffselchow5719]

This is just a suggestion, I would get a big pipe wrench on top frame and with a long bar, try to twist it Down and relieve some stress on top frame, that may begin to level out 'fork arms' as well. Then the left side arm can be twisted IN to straighten. Once it is straighterrrr, then weld some braces into webs of angle iron frame. Good Luck.

[@dukeflem]

1. I wouldn't tow the trailer with the jack stand down. If it catches on something in the road it will be BAD. 2. Don't worry about the bent frame on the old piece too much. A good metal shop can straighten it out some with a press. It's no biggie. 3. If it was mine, I would weld a flat plate across the opening on the bent angle. That would make it stronger. BUT, it all depends on how much a welding shop would charge you. Doesn't your Dad weld? If not, it might be cheaper to just get a new, better one. 3. I'm a welder so that type of thing is no biggie for me but it may be for you if you have to pay very much. 4. How much would it cost to UPS that bent part to me? (Oak Ridge, TN 37830) I could fix it for free for you. 5. I don't like the loseness of that new draw bar bracket that you just got and the flat bar looks too weak to me. All the weight and forces are right in the middle and it looks like it needs to be thicker and wider. The opening in that new bracket part that you bought is too big for that bar.

[@back40woodhoundsenior93]

Good point not to tow trailer with jack stand down.

[@gboz4245]

Mine did the exact Same thing , I took the top off and used 3 times thicker steel . Seems to help but now the pins and straight up and down steel is bowing ..... can’t win ....

[@edsmith4414]

Most carry all's are WAY too light weight, being built out of simple angle, to be used for rear forks.....as you can see from your experience. If you're gonna do that, get a set of hay forks made to handle the weight of logs/etc. I have a very sturdy set that I used all the time on my first tractor that didn't have a front end loader. Cut them down from the original 48" to 40", which helps over come the way a 3pt system has to raise stuff.

[@jeraldjaquet7650]

Also a quick attach hitch is nice when changing stuff The other post here refers to the t type Hitch from tsc with receiver that is nice too with quick hitch you can change attachments easy

[@gabrielklassen9043]

I'd use 1" thick flat steel and strengthen it across

[@stephenrhodesianridgeback7418]

Depending on your budget I would ditch the bent frame and invest in a nice set of three point hitch pallet forks . Then you can use them for the carryall platform or the forks for lifting logs etc . The amount of wood that you do I think you can justify them . Or plan B you find a good welder fabricator close too you that needs wood once and awhile 😂 On the bracket you bought I would drill a small hole for a pin in drawbar too stop it from sliding back . Plan C is you learn how too weld and fabricate and spend lots of money on a welding machine / saws / tools etc 😂👍

[@Back40Firewood]

LOL....well I can definitely eliminate plan C. I do like that idea of drilling hole for pin to hold drawbar lock in place.

[@seanjohnson9262]

Could you put the trailer ball on the tractors draw bar hole, or would that be too low?

[@Back40Firewood]

The threads on the ball hitch aren't long enough to go thru and it would be a bit low.

[@daveschooley8514]

They sell 2 in ball with longer threads, and spacer to raise it. I suggest take it to local welder to reinforce with 2” square tubing.

[@edsmith4414]

I never use a drawbar thing on mine. I built a T shaped deal (copied from one they sell at Tractor Supply) with a 2" receiver mount in the bottom. Stronger and more versatile than a drawbar mount for things like a trailer hitch. I call it the Blue T Bar (to differentiate it from the yellow one they sell at TSC for twice the price of building one.....ahahhaaha) It can also hold custom made stuff like the field wire holder I have mounted in photo below, which is just a hunk of 2" tube, pc of flat plate to sit the wire roll on, and another pc of square tubing running vertical to hold the roll of wire (like a toilet paper holder). To load the roll of wire, with the 3pt lift raised about 1/2 way, remove the top pin and let the vertical part pivot to the ground, slide the roll on, lower the lift, and pivot the roll by hand back upright. Insert top pin. To use, start the roll coming off, nail to the first few fence posts, then you can drive 50' or so down the fence roll as the roll un-winds itself. Stick a bar in the roll down low, let it come around and catch the blue upright part, and you have a handy-dandy fence wire stretcher as well ! (Pat Pending....ahahhahaa)(Please note one modification: The square plate at the bottom of the roll of wire does NOT work....square corners catch the wire as it unrolls. I added a pc of 3/4 plywood cut in a circle on top the metal plate that fixed that problem) uniim1.shutterfly.com/ng/services/mediarender/THISLIFE/003080452239/media/40412665969/medium/1329328835/enhance The blue T bar is also what I use with my homemade potato hiller.....another thing made of 2" tubing that fits in the receiver hitch. You can come up with all KINDS of things made to fit a 2" receiver hole. (Discs and spring point plows from an Ag supply catalog) uniim1.shutterfly.com/ng/services/mediarender/THISLIFE/003080452239/media/40412666203/medium/1400275889/enhance uniim1.shutterfly.com/ng/services/mediarender/THISLIFE/003080452239/media/40412666243/medium/1400275928/enhance

[@redneckjoe2494]

get a real set of forks for draw bar it will not bend like your cheanel

[@redneckjoe2494]

if you get new one in time you will have 2 bent ones

[@sawsurgeon]

@@redneckjoe2494 :: Truth Spoken Here! Unless another company builds one out of better materials, it is really pointless to purchase another one.

[@realairplane261]

I use a come along to bend mine back.

[@MuhaloTube]

With a couple sturdy adjustable wrenches and some cheater pipes you can tweak that frame back to straight. Like others have mentioned, it's doomed to bend again, it's a little too light duty for lifting a full trailer.

[@jasonlambert9021]

Looks like trying to hammer that back to shape would be a chore with no assurance of success. If you can get a good price on a new one and have a welder handy that may be the way to go. Ever considered getting a quick attach?

[@Back40Firewood]

Yeah I think it's too far gone to repair. will probably need to look into a quick attach if I get more attachments.

[@TKCL]

Wish you lived closer, I'd weld some reinforcement on there for you.

[@Back40Firewood]

closer??? It ain't that far....hahahahaha...I'll be over in the morning! LOL or maybe I'll wait til it warms up down there. 😀 👍 🍻

[@TKCL]

@@Back40Firewood ha ha... Cold joke! Come on man, it's really been cold for us Florida folk! See you in the morning, got the welder ready. Enjoy your 1000+ mile trip!

[@realairplane261]

If that carry all was jd green it would be much stronger!

[@Lifeinthe906]

Hey Dan .If it was me I would fix and beef up the carry all. Not sure what you have for fab tools but if you're paying some for fab work it may not be worth fixing.Also the option to just use it as is until its completely junk is there.

[@Back40Firewood]

Yeah no fab tools in my shed so might just end up a scrap, or like ya said use it til it can't be used again. 😀 👍 🍻

[@stannelson2582]

Maybe you explained it and I missed it. Because it’s not straight does not prevent it from working right. Use the draw bar for the trailer. It’s fine this is not carpentry it does not need to be square and plum

[@Back40Firewood]

Yeah it does still serve its purpose just isn't as rigid as before...and if I just use the carry all for gear & saws etc. then won't really matter I guess. 😀 👍 🍻

[@craigwilson9560]

Shifty, if you have a torch, a press, a porta power and a welder if can be fixed. It will be some work. If you buy a new one, reinforce it with box channel and reinfore it. Most are made light duty you may have the same problem again if you buy one and dont beef it up

[@jbfabrocks]

It could continue to be used as is, but your really using it for more than it was probably intended. Could it be fixed? It could be made straighter, but it would take more time than it's worth, and it will never be straight. The problem with angle iron that it isn't terrible resistant to torsion; and especially in the orientation it is on the top link it is not resistant to bending. I live about 1.5 hours East of you, and if you'd like I could fabricate one that works with your current carryall that could handle some extra weight. If you wanted to save a couple bucks, I could leave it bare steel and let you paint it. It looks like your drawbar lock could be bent a little further so that it stays engaged to the rectangular part of the bar. I could do that as well if we were to work something out on the frame.

[@tedferry408]

Take some pics, then head to your local welder guy/shop, they will be able to tell you cost of repair and if it possible to reinforce it.

[@kevinashby3784]

It’s possible to overload any implement no matter how strong you think you made it.

[@michaelwhiteoldtimer7648]

JUST PUT A SPACER BEHIND THE PIN AND THE ARM TO HOLD THE ARM CLOSER TO THE DRAW BAR, IT CAN'T SLIDE THEN. OR JUST USE WASHERS

[@michaelohara2161]

It can be straightened and beefed up easily.

[@peteshields1448]

Just put your clevis on the other side of the bracket for your draw bar

[@richardbrowne1679]

I personally would buy a new one and find a good welder to modify it to what you want.

[@danaparsons4894]

Be cheaper to buy a new one and reinforce the new one it'll cost you more to fix that one then it's worth that's my opinion Dana from Maine

[@realairplane261]

Dan, why buy something new and then have to reinvent the wheel. Lots of other people said to have one built heavier at the get go. i agree.

[@dmalloy96]

Have a welder build you one made out of heavier metal

[@tjt4036]

Drop back 10 and punt.

[@fricknjeep]

hi there B40 those bends wont hurt a thing , if you don't bend stuff your not getting max usage . it will be fine . on your draw bar ill but a link to what i did 25 years ago . if you don't have a welder maybe you have a connection or weld shop . the angle iron that holds pins is also very handy . ill do a video on just them when the weather brakes .kzbin.info/www/bejne/baTHgIJnjaqtkJI. take care john

[@outdoorswithlarryrobin]

Porta Power and a BFH would fix it! 👍🏼🇱🇷

[@ejkjr.4694]

Buy a new one and use the old one for the steel to beef up the new one.

[@roger766]

Check out you local welding shop and get and estimate to fix. May or may not be worth it. Looks like it was made way too light weight.

[@paulwagner5367]

That's the best idea It could be straightened out and then beefed up with steel.for less than buying a new one and beefing it up.

[@stevethiel5838]

Lots of good ideas in comments. Scrap carryall, too light for real work.

[@Deutschehordenelite]

The carry-all frame doesn't look that bad in my opinion. Maybe put a block of wood under one side and hammer on it or put the forks with the tractors down on it to straigthen it out. If it still works, then why not keep it as it is?

[@realairplane261]

Hate to tell ya Dan, but that draw barn lock is kind of mickey mouse.

[@Back40Firewood]

Yeah I know...lol....but was only option I could find around me to get. Hopefully it'll serve it's purpose and be fine. 😀 👍 🍻

[@realairplane261]

Dan get yourself a welder and an angle grinder. You can build a lot of better equipment, for a lot less 💵

[@bhall7997]

If you buy a new one check out TSC one If I remember right its built by tarter ? , mine looks much stronger than yours.

[@Back40Firewood]

Thanks for that feedback...will do. 👍😀🍻

[@sureflamefirewood4174]

Trade some wood to a good welder to build you a new one... there was nothing supporting the angle iron in the first place surprised it lasted this long..

[@harryellingsworth8302]

Shifty you need to stop Breaking things, I like that Draw Bar lock, that trailer will safe you time hauling wood, watch that Jack on the Trailer you could hit something and bend it, just saying

[@Back40Firewood]

LOL...yeah things break easier than get fixed with me...hahaha Oh yeah I usually put the jack up, just was gonna be dropping it back off so left it down. 😀 👍 🍻

[@Alexweav79]

Buy a new one or have someone build you a stronger one. Once it’s bent like that, the metal is weak and will flex easier the next time. Lesson learned!

[@reddawg532]

Nothing a big sledgehammer won't fix or a hydraulic jack or press.

[@dropedlow33]

YES TAKE IT TO A WEILDER THEY CAN MAKE U A CUST ONE WITH BOX TUBEING U BE BETER OFF LITTLE MORE MONEY BUT THE RITE TOOL FOR JOB MAKE YOUR LIFE EASY NO WAREY ABOUT IT BENING UP IN TO SCAP

[@ralphkanagy4602]

Good job buddy you do good work how is the hand text me back or send me a heart

[@Back40Firewood]

Thanks...hand is doing much better.😀 👍 🍻

[@billbrearton4164]

Not worth fixing angle iron. Just use it til really busted up then junk it

[@richysoutdoors2591]

Don’t let that thing get the best of you , Chain it to a tree and kioti it back to level 😂 Lol. OR take it to seniors farm and hoist it up in a tree ... New Deer stand Hahaa. Later on twisted metal and stuff 😁

[@Back40Firewood]

Hahahahaha....I like that tree stand idea, although not sure how high up i'd put it...lol 😀 👍 🍻

[@realairplane261]

Build one out of 2x4 square steel tubing. Email me privately and i will send some pics.

[@denislacroix8334]

It is sliding over because you only have that one bolt in it, put in the second bolt and it will no longer move over. A good welder can heat that frame up, straiten it, and properly reinforce it after, probably be cheaper than another $150.00 unit.

[@teejay6611]

Sorry.it looks like scrap metal. Or just hammer the heck out of it.

[@michaelbyrne9837]

The Carry All Frame looks like scrap metal to me. Trying to repair it is gonna waste part of the $150 it will cost for a new one. For me - Cut your losses and buy new.

[@metalworks2765]

or just keep it like it is

[@ronaldfallgren7253]

Replace

[@nicholascooper1193]

time to buy a welder and a stick of heavier material

[@drmautz]

You can fix it.

[@RiverValleyAcres]

It looks like it’s poorly made. I think you could def have something better fabricated.

[@kennethblack3485]

take it to an fabrication company they will fix it by applying heat and get it strengthened up by fitting cross members take there advice but if they are 150 dollars new wont it happen again good luck ken from kent england

[@paulwagner5367]

Cheap China steel .A good welder could repair that for less than buying a new one.Good luck

[@haroldphipps3457]

Only if the weldor works for free.

[@xxrice]

A large adjustable wrench and a cheater pipe should bend that back.

[@onlythetruth2899]

Korean tractor with Chinese attachment = garbage.