I Botched the Retrobrite on my Amiga 500

[@Teckno77]

Thanks for posting about the problem it's always good to know stuff like this and share to help others out, appreciated.

[@DavePoo2]

Yeah, hopefully others can avoid this trap.

[@lochmarnegoat9812]

So I've heard that unless the peroxide is completely even this can happen. Submerging in a liquid peroxide solution ensures that it's even. Might be worth a try.

[@souljastation5463]

You are correct. I use the submerging method and I've never had any streaking.

[@DavePoo2]

It was evenly spread, I made sure of that, but I think what has happened is when the plastic is in close contact with the case, the cream doesn't evaporate, and where it isn't, it dries up and doesn't work as well.

[@americanpatriot-usaf]

This is what I did back in July. I Retrobrited my Amiga 500 using Clairol Pure White 40 Volume Creme Developer ( I believe it contains 12% Hydrogen Peroxide). I built a UV Lighting box with 4 UV Lambs @ 50watts each that allows for a work area of 2'x2'. First, I cleaned the Amiga with soap and water, rinsing thoroughly and drying it. Then shaking the cream developer before smattering the Amiga cover and base and then using cling wrap to cover the pieces. Next, placed them one at a time in the box, lined with aluminum foil for the reflectivity of the UV rays to aid in getting to upper surface areas. Finally, after 4 hours for each piece, they were rinsed off to find their original color had returned. I have done this on several other parts obtaining the same result. Not sure why the plastic on your 500 is displaying shadows given you were very thorough with the cleaning and applying the peroxide.

[@DavePoo2]

I think the reason it goes wrong is there are places where the plastic is clung tightly to the case, and other places where it hasn't. In the places where the plastic is tight, the cream doesn't evaporate and you get a stronger effect there than you do in the other places. I think some people get around this by going in every now and then and "massaging" the cream about so they get an even effect. But for me now this cream method is out as although like you I have had good results, I now know it's not 100% guaranteed to work every time. So I'll be switching to the liquid peroxide method now, as I've done a couple of videos since then where I tested it out on an Amiga mouse.

[@americanpatriot-usaf]

@@DavePoo2 that sounds logical concerning the evaporation and thinly layered areas of peroxide under the wrap. I've tried the liquid peroxide method with poor results. You will need to use a lot of liquid peroxide, which is only 3%, so getting the ratio to water will be the key. Good luck.

[@thromboid]

For the case you could consider sandblasting. The over-bleaching is likely very superficial, but fine abrasives like creme cleanser or melamine foam "magic" erasers will make the surface too shiny.

[@DavePoo2]

@@thromboid I'm willing to live with my mistake. There are brand new cases in production, so I think that would be a better alternative than giving the current one any more abuse.

[@thromboid]

I feel your pain, though in my case it was the keys that came out blotchy, marbled and ghostly, as I used a zip-lock bag for those. The case came out nice overall - I didn't use plastic film but brushed on creme developer with corn starch and left it open in a big plastic box - apart from some overbleaching where condensation had dripped onto it. The keys were also crackly from the sun damage, which probably didn't help. I think bags or film are just asking for uneven results. 12% peroxide is quite capable of bleaching beyond the original colour!

[@thromboid]

Or rather, where evaporation occurs, the peroxide concentration increases to the point where overbleaching can occur. I think drips of the condensation may also be highly reactive, judging from my imperfect results.

[@thromboid]

Next time I would definitely make a jig for holding the keys in the correct order and orientation so that any unevenness is less noticeable.

[@naderhumood]

Lovely job 👏......thanks very much.

[@tiemanowo]

This happened to me exacly the same way, when I tried Retrobrite my Atari 130XE. But in my case I was using a submerge method, but I didn't check very often and bubbles forming under the case forced it to float on surface. So my advice. Even if you are using a submerge method add some weight to the plastics or check very often if they do not float on surface.

[@DavePoo2]

That's good to know as I intend to do all my future retrobrite with the submersion method.

[@geekyprojects1353]

Thanks Dave for sharing the story. I've seen many successful retrobrite attempts here on KZbin and all involved submerging the plastic parts in a solution. I tried myself retrobriting with ozone (gas) and there were no patches either. So maybe the wrapping is not the best way to do this.

[@DavePoo2]

I agree, plastic wrap is over for me as its a lottery as to whether it's going to turn out good.

[@doctorsocrates4413]

I would be tempted to paint it...i have 3 amiga500s and they have never yellowed..i suppose it depends what environment they were used and stored...smoking households don't help either.

[@DavePoo2]

I've decided to live with my mistakes and it will serve as a reminder not to do that again.

[@davidlloyd1526]

It looks ok in the video (certainly a lot better than it was). In any case, retrobrite is only a temporary whitener - it'll start to go yellow again in a few years. Storing the computer properly and checking for cap leakage/rust is the important bit...

[@DavePoo2]

It looks a little worse to my eye than it does to the camera, but generally I suppose the look it slightly better. People do say that the retrobrite is temporary but I've got an Amiga 600 that I did about a year ago and it still looks really good. I hope the 500 does start to fade back as I think it will hide the botched retro brute, I think I've already made it whiter than it should be whilst trying to correct it.

[@kobe3576]

The reason why the case has that empty space at the right is because of the keyboard. The case is basically sized to the dimensions of the keyboard.

[@DavePoo2]

Yeah, it also makes sense the A1200 is basically shrunk down from this, but it can't shrink widthways, it's just not as deep. I think it helped that the floppy drives had gotten smaller by the time the A1200 came out.

[@MikkyTee]

Unlucky Dave. I’ve had good results with the method you used, not sure what went wrong there. If I had to go again, I’d use the clear peroxide and a good uv lamp in a foil wrapped container, it’s the way to go for overall consistency I think 😉

[@DavePoo2]

Yeah, I've had success in the past too. From this point forward I won't use this plastic wrap method anymore, I'm going to be using liquid hydrogen peroxide.

[@HoldandModify]

You should clean the worm gear on the floppy. Then apply new lubricant. Also hit the various bits of the floppy drive that move (metal on metal) with some lube as well. Sorry to see the retro-brite issue. Honestly, your 500 still looks quite nice. Soldier on!

[@DavePoo2]

The worm drive looked really clean so i didn't touch it.

[@electronictreasure4191]

Ok I retract my comment, I recently got a very yellowed (almost brown) 1200, but only on one side! I couldnt submerge because it would over bleach the left side while the right side would still be yellow. Keys the same. so I brushed cream only on the yellow areas and aimed those at the sun, re-brushing every 15 minutes and rotating slightly to blend and even out the transition. After 3 hours all of the yellow areas matched the rest of the case. I did the same with the keys. This really ugly yellow amiga now looks brand new! Even the two toned keys look great, I post a video soon.

[@lentoman]

You could also try light brighting/sun brighting with just pure sun, takes a longer time though. Retro recipies did a video on it and even did some refurbs where he used that method.

[@DavePoo2]

Yeah, I found out in my recent video that just UV & water will cause colour changing. However i don't want to punish this case anymore until it goes more yellow as I think it has already gone too white, whiter that the A500 should be I think

[@Daz5Daz]

It's a shame about the streaks. If I was in this position I'd now go for a cool custom spray-painted case.

[@DavePoo2]

Not a bad idea, but I think I will live with my mistake so that it reminds me not to repeat it.

[@TranceTrousers]

You could always spray paint it, either as close to the original colour as you can or something completely different?

[@DavePoo2]

I am going to live with my mistake as it is, as a lesson to never do it again.

[@bordellobrotherz]

I had the same problem with a 500 Plus a few weeks ago, everytime I try again it gets worse. Never had any issues with 600's or 1200's.

[@DavePoo2]

Yeah, my 600s have worked well, but then they have cases that are originally much closer to white than the 500

[@rjd324]

I have botched it before too. I can see why the submerge method would be better. Can someone link to a product to use? Presumably it would not be the 40 peroxide white gunk that I am using at the minute.

[@TMS5100]

Don't get too worried about it, retrobrite is just temporary and the yellowing comes back. Not really worth it in the end.

[@DavePoo2]

I've got computers that I retrobrighted a year ago and they still look really good. For me it has been worth it in the end.

[@ChrisFredriksson]

Maybe a liquid peroxide bath with UV could solve the marks you got? Didn't show much on video, but I can imagine that you're disappointed! Which is why I've never tried retrobrighting yet, afraid to get disappointed 😂

[@DavePoo2]

Yep disappointing, messed it up and then spent a long time trying to correct it. I feel like if i had just got it right first time it would have been fine. I'm going to be double careful next time i do this. Jan Beta does this by wrapping them in cling film and then massaging the peroxide cream about at regular intervals. I feel like this is a safer way of doing it as you will never get this problem where the plastic wrap sticks in one place and not in another which gives the uneven look. Basically the massaging of the cream will gradually even it out to get a nice look by making sure there is an even amount of peroxide cream spread about inside the wrap.

[@ChrisFredriksson]

@@DavePoo2 Yeah it certainly seems that it isn't an easy job! Some KZbinrs make it look so incredibly easy 😀 I'm sure you'll manage to get this sorted some way or another, at least over time. I don't think its completely ruined. Thanks for the reply also!

[@souljastation5463]

There's no need to search for liquid peroxide; just mix the cream with water (I also add a bit of Vanish Oxi Action). It's the safest method but also the more annoying one: you need a container big enough to submerge the piece and a way to not make it float.

[@ChrisFredriksson]

@@souljastation5463 Sounds nice, but how much cream to water ratio? Roughly of course, no need to be several decimals specific 😁 As I only have A600s finding a container should be quite easy.. But those 500.. might be harder to find a container large enough 😁

[@DavePoo2]

Are you just bathing it in that then (the cream + water)? do you still need heat or UV as well?

[@MrJozza65]

After the success of the keys, it's a shame the case Retrobrite didn't come out as well. I've seen many seasoned Retrobriters on KZbin who have moved from cream to liquid peroxide as it is less likely to cause blotchiness, so it could be worth a retry with that, nothing to lose 🙂

[@DavePoo2]

Yeah I can see why they do it that way too now. to I've had a lot of success with my method in the past, but maybe I just got lucky.

[@ChrisThomas-lt8jd]

I have applied cream to the grey inner plastic of a 1997 iMac, and it came out marbled. Not good. I THINK the best approach is using cloudy cream peroxide in solution, in water. And accelerate that with two or more UV lights. Directional light is also an enemy. Think about it more light, more bright, shadow areas cause less brightening. So diffuse, but bright UV is the best. So maybe linning a clear plastic box with foil is good, to reflect it back onto those out of the way areas... Retrobrighting, It is a bit of an dark art, ironically...

[@DavePoo2]

I've actually ordered 10L of 12% liquid hydrogen peroxide to do any further case brightening. But yes i will line a plastic box with tinfoil. I think using the UV light will allow me to do parts of the case separately and still get the same about of whitening on each if i time it all right. I think i'll stick with my cream and little bags method for the keys as i've had 100% success with that on about 4 keyboards now I think.

[@ChrisThomas-lt8jd]

​@@DavePoo2 Yeah, I buy peroxide in 5 - 10L bottles from EBay suppliers, as its much cheaper than on say, Amazon. I think they key to poerfect retroBriteing, is homogenaity, i.e. evenly applied Peroxide with evenly applied accelerant. The accelerant can be light, or heat. Sun is good accelerant, but it is VERY directional on a sunny day, which is less than ideal. Thats why, maybe, cream Peroxide in water is better, as it diffuses any light comming in. The iMac I mentioned above, has an outer front case that is translucent, and it had yellowed so much on top, it was kind of orange/brown. I have been bleaching it for about 4 weeks now! This is in a storage tub, outside, with a solution of 12% Peroxide in water. I think what makes this so slow, is that the plastic is yellowed INSIDE, as it is translucent. Its a bit of an experiment. I fear it will never fully bleach back to normal. But its a first gen iMac, so I am trying... I used cream Peroxide at 6% on its inner grey casing, as I could not remove it (plastic is too brittle + thin) to submerge it. No option. I knew it might marble, and it did... but will be seen through the translucent outer casing, so the marbling will be blurred. Im literally just lining up and Amiga 500, mildly yellowed to retroBright now, before Winter hits. I'm making a peg board, nails in plywood, to stick all the keys on, as they do tend to float out of the water/peroxide, especially as bubble form under the keys, making them too boyant. But I will also be submerging the case as well. Fingers crossed it lightens evenly, and enough before the autumn sun is too weak. If it does fade, I may invest in one of those UV Lights. BTW, what model is it you use?

[@markfernandes5674]

Don't berate yourself about the retro bite. You have learnt from it and we have learnt from your experiences. You seem to imply that success differs between models - maybe Commodore used different plastics in injection holdings and this is just down to chemistry?

[@DavePoo2]

The other Amiga's i did were the 600 which has a much whiter case (originally), so the plastic definitely is different to the 500

[@StayCoolKeto]

*Take a shot every time he says "boched" youll be hammered within 10 mins lol. I feel your pain for the ruined original case, though. I'd be kicking myself too lol*

[@DavePoo2]

If only i had been drunk, at least i would have an excuse for making a mess of it.

[@StayCoolKeto]

@@DavePoo2 lol not trying anything else on it now?

[@DavePoo2]

@@StayCoolKeto No, it's already gone too white from being put through the retrobrite 3 times. I'm going to do some investigation to see how to do this better/correctly in the future.

[@StayCoolKeto]

@@DavePoo2 you thought about a paint job on it? you can get some sprays with texture and stuff similar.

[@DavePoo2]

@@StayCoolKeto I'm going to own my mistake, it will be a monument to remind me to not do this in the future.

[@melvoid01]

That would be the point where I go " ok time to pick a colour and spray it"

[@DavePoo2]

That is an idea. However, I will live with this A500 as a monument to my sins and to remind me not to do that again.

[@MrWaalkman]

Which is why I haven't retrobrited anything. I'm certain that I'll mess up mine. I'll go the sunbriting route instead.

[@DavePoo2]

Or try liquid hydrogen peroxide instead. I'll be doing that in the future, I've already done a video where I used it to fix the keys on my A1200

[@electronictreasure4191]

Oh I made the same mistake on my 128dCR keyboard :( Dozens of successfull retrobrites using cream until now. Will never use cream again! Full Sumbersion in weak peroxide and water only from now on. Been leaving my ugly keyboard in the hot attic trying to yellow it again!

[@DavePoo2]

Yep, no more cream for me. Still got this Amiga 500 to remind me not to do it again.

[@flashg30]

Why not just paint your amiga if you have did a mistake on retrobrite?

[@DavePoo2]

I'm going to live with my mistake to remind me not to do it again. Also, the colour may re yellow over time, so in about 10 years I can try again

[@wimwiddershins]

My A500 came out a bit "marbled" after retrobrighting, but I still prefer it over the horrible chain-smoker yellow colour it was before.

[@DavePoo2]

Yes, my A500 was a horrible yellow, and it technically already had marks anyway as it had the square where the "panic button" had been placed for years. But still, it's disappointing to not have it come out the way i wanted.

[@SlavomirG]

@@DavePoo2 I would spray it with an off-white paint

[@marccarter1350]

Soak it in water with hydro. It stops the marks.

[@DavePoo2]

I think it has already gone too white, so i don't want to punish it any further

[@Retro_Hacker]

i make my own solution with 50ml 12% peroxide liquid, 10ml glycerin and spoon of Xanthan

[@DavePoo2]

You should start your own hair coloring salon

[@Retro_Hacker]

@@DavePoo2 xD

[@rjd324]

I guess you you could patch this botch up by spray paint? It is clearly going to be on your mind every time you look at it.

[@DavePoo2]

I'm willing to live with my mistakes, as a reminder to never repeat them

[@mark12358]

When you do not know how to proper do a thing, just research for others that did the same, instead of reinventing the wheel. It's unfortunate, but it can be restored with proper treatment. Try immersion in liquid water and peroxide solution, just follow the Eight Bit Guy suggestion on it. Cheers, M