I Built a Welding Fixture Table

[@MariusHornberger]

Dipping my toes into the world of welding was fun. I went the extra mile and made plans for this project. Check them out and support these videos: mariushornberger.com/products/welding-fixture-table-plans

[@omprakash_daksh]

I am a student. But I still watching your video always. I love your ideas. You give me motivation to do anything. I love your video.

[@saterry7984]

Moin, hab wie du viel mit holz und möbelbau zu tun gehabt und schweife gerade auch richtung metaller aus. Hab such schon ein wig gerät usw. Ich hatte tatsächlich überlegt mit genau die evolution kappsäge (R210CMS?) zu holen.. wie zufrieden bist du mit der?

[@Quiccc]

Your welder has Tig Pulse function, you should read into it, it will give you more penetration on your weld while reducing heat buildup by pulsing between a high and low amperage.

[@samuelgavin1710]

Just wondering if you have you sheared the STL for the TIG sharper??? 18:15

[@exuzz98]

Is there anyway to get the stl and material list for the tig sharpener

[@bwillan]

A German engineer that says good enough with a 0.1 mm tolerance on his first welding project. Well done sir and a tip of the hat to you.

[@RFC3514]

Ja, Standards sind heutzutage niedriger. 😉

[@maynardleistiko7160]

My mother said: "gut genug kann besser sein".

[@TheNebulon]

I'm half German. I've abandoned leatherworking projects because they were off less than a tenth of a mm

[@Conservator.]

@@RFC3514I’ve got tears in my eyes from laughing, literally! Danke!

[@markushalabrin1896]

Hi Marius, ich mag ja deine Videos aber leider reicht mein Englisch dafür nicht aus, gibt es die auch in dt. oder mit dt. Untertitel? Aber sonst weiter machen.

[@akselbering291]

Hey professional welder here, by the quick clip at 17:23 it seems like your using too much gas. It also looks like your using a cup size 7 or 8, a general rule of thumb is taking the cup size and adding 2. That gives you your desired gas flow, with a little bit extra for any leaks. Whenever I adjust my gas flow I light up on a scrap piece and if there is no "scratching" noise as the amps slump down, then I know I got the right flow set. If it does still scratch, then it's just a matter of adjusting it up or down and trying again. Initial slump up (or slope) isn't generally something I use, it's annoying when tacking and only useful when you wanna restart on a weld with a bit better penetration. But avoid making the bead any wider right at the start. So for aesthetics basically. 20:42 THIS, it's by no means perfect but these few seconds are how you "should" be welding all the time. The excessive angle of your torch isn't technically correct, but it does reduce penetration and thusly reduce warping. 10-20 degrees from perpendicular is the "correct" angle. 20:47 it's miles better, notice how the weld initially "wets out" smoothly in the beginning and then sort of folds up on itself a few dips later? What's happening is your initially welding with the correct amount of heat in the weld puddle, (THIS, it's not the amount of heat applied, its how hot the puddle is.) for those initial few dips you are welding at the correct speed. But as you were getting started you applied more heat than needed, so you succesfully made use of the excess heat but then failed to compensate (slowing down slightly) when this excess heat ran out. 20:57 use thinner filler wire, I would say a 1,6 would be plenty for this. 2,0 and you sort of have to use another dipping technique in order to not dramatically change how hot the weld puddle is with every single dip of filler. 21:49 If you had extra pipe available I would've tacked them on as a strongback in order to prevent warping, you'd still get some but much MUCH less than you'd expect.

[@DavidBaumgarner]

Thank you, Sensei!

[@AntonTubeish]

Fantastic feedback, thanks for taking the time to do a proper breakdown

[@Yzerbruh]

To add onto your gas flow tip: The rule of thumb in metric is that your gas flow in L/H should be around equal to the inner diameter off your cup in mm. Reduce it by ~20% for fillet welds and increase it by ~20% for gapped welds.

[@MariusHornberger]

Thank you really much. Exactly the feedback I was looking for!

[@GB-mu9ue]

Excellent comment. Very helpful.

[@chrisjinks5197]

Guys guys,guys.....he's into welding now.... In a few videos time he will be building his own water jet machine eith better features than a commercially available machine

[@snowlockk3464]

nth dimenstion movable head.

[@DGroenenberg]

That would be great. Upvoted 😂

[@Cynyr]

Cnc upgrade on the lathe, with stock feeder, and part catcher.

[@JohnnyBit]

3d printed EDM!

[@jameshisself9324]

Yes finally. I am as well so I've been patiently waiting, and now his new ideas are hopefully more applicable to my projects too.

[@JbTig]

Dude, I'm a fabricator, and your welds need work, but my God, that tolerance and checking technique with the tools you have is just beautiful to watch. I absolutely love your videos.

[@Crewsy]

WOW. He clearly said his welds need work and that he’s a beginner and you still need to point that out before commenting on his QC techniques. 🤦‍♂️ I’m sure you’d be a great mentor in a shop. 🥺

[@JeronimoStilton14]

@@Crewsyhe also said feel free to roast me

[@UnbeltedSundew]

@@Crewsy Why are you whining?

[@-PORK-CHOP-]

@@UnbeltedSundew Probably a Gen Z, they get hurt feelings very easily 🤣🤣

[@JbTig]

Really taking a positive comment about his technique, blatant ability and thought process to be something negative, that's wild. ​@Crewsy

[@AlecSteele]

Awesome build! I learnt some great things watching!!!

[@JHTechTime]

Oh my god it’s Alec Steele ha.

[@MariusHornberger]

Hey, thank you Alec!

[@excavon7297]

I don't know what you learned, but the steam hammer isn't going to like it.

[@tinkerer4]

I need an Alec/Marius colab in my life!

[@baltasavr]

можно было бы сделать проще - быстрее и точнее, насверлив отверстий после сборки щита.

[@BeckyStern]

That 3D printed jig for sharpening tungsten bits is **chef's kiss** Awesome project and thanks for sharing your process!

[@jamesgulrich7416]

I agree! I bought something similar years ago that was 3d printed and it's not "*chef's kiss*"!

[@TerkanTyr]

As a beginner I went to the grinding wheel with 5 needles a few times a day, it was incredibly annoying. This would have been so nice to use.

[@mickmann6779]

Belt sander and drill for tungsten sharpening.

[@Hannbaal666]

For the Welding part, when you get used to it and build muscle memory, you'll heat your workpieces less if you up the amps on your welder en weld faster, that's why you were having trouble early with the 110 amps setup compared to the 130 amps setup. Great job for a beginner that's a nice project!

[@SpencerPaire]

Haha, my dad once told me "Higher temps to keep it cool." Real welding wisdome!

[@techheck3358]

I’m not much of a welder, but that’s similar advice for cooking! If it’s too dry, use higher temps because the innards won’t get as hot before the outside is done!

[@Conservator.]

I’ve never welded but the same applies to soldering. Higher temperatures -> quicker soldering -> less heat into the parts.

[@courtenaybotterill5591]

Weld two pieces of scrap from your weld table with the same weld settings. Then cut through the weld on your cool saw, then you can check that your weld is penetrating the metal stock correctly. You have the best KZbin channel.

[@brianwelch1579]

YES. KZbinrs are the WORST for not testing welds. Also welds two pieces together and then BREAK the weld and see what happens. "great looking" welds can be garbage too..

[@Hnkka]

His welds look good from the outside, no need. Good melting and enough filler

[@twm4259]

@@HnkkaTrue. These are not structural welds.

[@plusmanikantanr]

Instead of Brake Cleaner PLEASE USE ACETONE when welding!!! John Cadogan talks about the tragic Phosphene gas generated by heating Brake Cleaner indoors when welding causing a non-recovery in the patient.

[@DGroenenberg]

Thanks for the heads up brother.

[@markchisholm2657]

Or just wait 6 minutes and it's entirely evaporated....

[@Kreivos]

Luckily these days chlorinated brake cleaners are increasingly rare and banned in many places, but it's definitely a good idea to check ones own. I couldn't find a single one in Finland for instance.

[@arcrad]

Just use non chlorinated brake cleaner.

[@dack42]

@@Kreivos That may be the case in Europe, but I think it's still pretty commonly available in North America.

[@gazbusterskerteszet1269]

The algorithm recommended this video three times before I watched it, because I thought I wasn't interested in a makeshift welding table. But there is absolutely no makeshift work here. This guy does metalworking at an exceptionally high level compared to what I expected. And it's extremely educational. This video is very, very good! I'm grateful for it! :)

[@lukasholzapfel8285]

I Just Love how he builds Stuff so insanely accurate and perfect in His basement Workshop. I know people that do welding for a living and would never Put that amount of precision and perfection in a welding table

[@2Skinny]

His work is very imperfect- he would be the first to admit that. The cool part is he thinks around the imperfections which is a much more important skill than striving for perfection.

[@aries6776]

I've seen some wonky welded parts in my time from professional fabricators!

[@dininmullins6429]

You could lift the bottle with the hose to stop the transfer to keep from having to aim liquid a meter up from your bottle :)

[@markrainford1219]

Or lift the hose out of the liquid, the other end.

[@MattCaffell]

I think you should indicate your pilar drill spindle and see what's going on. I know that bits can be curved slightly, which is not great, but if the spindle is running out of true, that will compound your issues.

[@raymondo162]

also check the drill spindle is 90deg to the drilling table

[@BestLittleStudio]

I am betting this is the reason even the undersized hole saw was cutting oversides, if he setup a dial indicator on it I bet there was a full 0.5mm of runout overall.

[@MattCaffell]

@@BestLittleStudio at least,

[@LBCAndrew]

After having to have tiny slivers of steel removed from my right eye twice now, i always wear a full face shield. The crazy thing is, both times i was wearing safety glasses. Well... first time was glasses, the second time were these dewalt goggles which had a little gap near the nose that a piece flew in, bounced and hit my eye.

[@garrettmasarik8012]

Funny thing is... it is BECAUSE of the "safety precautions" that you choose to do things that you would not otherwise... you make lesser good decisions BECAUSE you "FEEL SAFE" than you would doing nothing...

[@jdt1459sja]

Yes be carefull !! I had to go in one week 3 times to the hospital and the eyedoc had to drill into my right eyeball to get al the rusty metal out . Then it took me 2 weeks with an lens in my eye becouse the drill holes in my own lens did not heal .12x a day drops in my eye .it was hell .so you are warned. Use perfect eye protection 😊!!!

[@Gulltoppr]

Your bit is wobbling which is pretty normal in most drill press and shops, therefore if you use a vice for your base metal its fixed and that bit play will make your hole bigger, therefore if you hold it slightly by hand it actually helps you and allows your base metal to play together with a bit and your hole ends up more precise.

[@JorgenLarsson]

Nicely done! I had a local company laser cut 6 mm steel plate with holes, slots and tabs for me. Just weld together. Was about 130 Euro. Found the drawings online. The biggest difference for me when tig welding was swapping out the large handle with the buttons and going for a much smaller ck torch and a foot pedal...so much more control, will never go back.

[@FirozkohJ]

Can you share the drawings or any images?

[@scrapper666]

"And since step drills aren't the most precise tools in the world, it made the exact hole size I was looking for." When you can sarcasm that good, you have a very good handle on English as a second language.

[@jeremyspecce]

Seriously!😂😂

[@LikeAPetrol]

German engineering is in the house. Like your tolerance checking tips and "pins based approach" in building the surface of table. Appreciate for sharing, sir.

[@SharkyMoto]

normal sagt man ca. 40A pro MM - da bist du mit den 130 besser bedient als mit den 110 - was ich aber empfehlen kann, ist ein fußpedal, da kannst du dann direkt reagieren und entweder mehr oder weniger leistung geben, z.b wenn du ans ende der naht kommst, langsam die leistung rausnehmen, so dass du die ecken nicht wegbläst

[@td3drummer267]

Sauerkraut Schnitzel

[@coltongerber1879]

I can't remember ever having seen welding shot with exposure that let me see what was happening. At first, I didn't realize that's what you had done, but it's super interesting to see. Now I wish everyone who welds in KZbin videos would do that!

[@Failure_Is_An_Option]

You mean like every welding channel does...

[@wolfiemcwolf6617]

I would say that, as a basic method, you could just use a welding shield glass in front of the lens to produce that?

[@klausnielsen1537]

What a massive amount of work!! But the results are top tier! I love that you can put this to the side against the wall, make adjustments as needed and it is so affordable. Great work all around! 👍

[@Ilikemakingthings]

I love that you're showing your beginner welding journey! Very awesome, looks like you are doing a great job. One of my favourite upgrades was a smaller torche (9 series) with a stubby back cap and stubby gas lens, made controlling the torch so much easier for me. Thanks for all of your videos, you've inspired me many times over

[@werner-de-jong]

with all the holes, perhaps you can make a fume extractor that draws the fumes down through the table, away from you. Great build. Thank you for sharing!

[@jothain]

Not good idea. It would almost guarantee to lose shielding. Would work for stick, but nothing else.

[@Yzerbruh]

Like a different reply mentioned: it would mess up your gas shielding. The shielding gas used when welding is heavier than regular atmospheric gases, so the fume extractor would be pulling your gas coverage away from your weld area. Overhead extraction is much better at shielding you from toxic fumes, since its actively redirecting the fumes that might move towards you. The best solution would be an atmospheric welding hood. But a regular breathing hose with proper heat shielding is a solid alternative for hobbyists. If no precautions are taken to reduce fume inhalation, the air behind a welder is already about 90% cleaner than the air near the weld. So with a simple hose and a well ventilated workspace you can greatly reduce long term health risks.

[@jothain]

@@Yzerbruh Yes. This is why professional welding helmets have battery powered blower unit on users lower back, which pulls air through filter and slightly overpressurizes welding helmet protecting user from fumes via air hose.

[@geneva93]

One day, and after many years, you'll flip that table over, and those newbie welds will remind you how much you've improved. Keep up the great work!!

[@horrorhotel1999]

The biggest issue with your welds is consistency of when you add filler to your puddle and how consistent your lateral movement is. I suggest walking the cup a bit less i.e. decreasing the amplitude of your oscillations, upping the current some more, and being extremely cogniscent about adding the filler always at the same point in your oscillation. Torch angle is REALLY important here. Your filler must NEVER melt before touching the puddle. If you don't manage to achieve this, decrease arc gap and/or adjust torch angle accordingly

[@MariusHornberger]

Awesome tips, thank you really much

[@Wktr777]

GPPH is a very good company from Poland. Excellent quality and accuracy. I own one of their tables and it’s marvelous. 🎉

[@AquaPeet]

200 holes made in a bunch of operations... HOLE-LY CRAP I applaude your endurance and patience and congratulate you with the results!!

[@NathanNostaw]

I was very impressed with the sander build and the amazing features you designed in. But now you have another great build. For manual drilling, machining and welding I think your results are fantastic. Well done.

[@jishan6992]

The sheer audacity of this man still calling himself a beginner after all the project he has finished is crazy work lol

[@carlosguerrero9473]

Al principio del vídeo tenía sospechas de que esta persona fuese alemán, Ya al acabar.. no me cabe mínima duda, he disfrutado con la pasión de hacer bien las cosas 👌

[@Dogeek]

Tips: - more heat = easier weld = more distortion due to the localized heating expanding the metal. Practice with lower amperage. - Depending on the materials you weld, you need higher amperage, for instance welding (or rather brazing) copper needs a torch due to copper's extreme heat conductivity. - Some materials do not weld together - high carbon steel has higher heat conductivity, meaning HSS for instance can be welded but you need to crank it up a lot more - You need to adjust your filler speed based on the amount of heat you put in, and stay consistent with your movement, which is why your welds do not look good, there's times you're approaching the fill rod, then moving it back. Welding colder allows you to keep feeding the fill rod in a consistent manner - With MIG and TIG you need some place for the weld to go. You could have ground chamfers on the weld spots on each piece in order to make a deeper V groove for the weld to fill up. - Prepping your weld surfaces is important, as oxides can form very quickly. So a bit of sandpaper on the surface right before welding is a good idea to have the welds penetrate deeper.

[@bowesterlund3719]

More amps = faster weld = smaller heat affected zone = less distortion

[@blvckbytes7329]

If the weld doesn't properly form on a lower current setting, one will for sure input more heat into the part when compared to higher current with a shorter duration. It's not just about the amps, but also the speed, thus the time of application.

[@blvckbytes7329]

​@@bowesterlund3719Exactly! Sorry for repeating your comment, YT rendered it only after I have already written mine.

[@Failure_Is_An_Option]

@Dogeek We can tell you have never welded...

[@ManfredWelding]

Very nice! Video and of course the welding table. I would just be too lazy to drill so many holes! VG Manni

[@nesmio7378]

You should share the tungsten tip grinding guide plans! Really cool.

[@stumcconnel]

Yeah I'd love to see those too, I'm rubbish at sharpening tips 😅

[@andersjjensen]

That would require that you have the same die grinder (what he calls "a Dremel too").

[@darty367]

Clearly not, you should never sharpen your tungsten like that. There are a lot of mistakes about welding in this video, but first of all, sharpening tungsten should always be done In the parallel direction (as if you sharpening the tip of a pencil with a knife and not with a pencil sharpener) to avoid arc disturbance. A simple bench grinder will do the job, and you can easily adjust the sharpening angle by hand. 3D printing in this context is overkill and serves no purpose.

[@richardrounce3318]

You're doing great for a beginner welder. Most beginners don't start on tig. I have very little experience with tig, but I do have my all position CWB ticket for SMAW. The one thing I noticed about your welds is you're not allowing the two base metals to form a single puddle before you dab your filler rod. Try starting the arc and doing small circular motions until the two base metals form a single puddle, then add your filler. Continuing on is basically the same procedure, move about half the original puddle distance and let the two base metals form together and add filler. Can't wait to see your progress and skill develop, cheers.

[@MariusHornberger]

Thanks for the tips!

[@mattylarkspur9858]

thank you so much for putting the eye shields/flash warning!! there are so many youtubers who seem to think i want to watch ten minutes straight of white flashes rather than actually being able to see anything, and this was so much nicer.

[@14KiloWhisky]

Are you joking? 😂😂😂

[@thomasvilhar3560]

I am so impressed. Maybe colour code the holes that are aligning perfectly. Also maybe a metal sheet under the fixture to save the table under it. Fantastic work.

[@viceroy3297]

Decisive step drill victory.

[@wouldiwasshookspeared4087]

He never knew his real drill.

[@RobertDaveMyrland]

Awesome work. I found in China welding tables between 800-1500 Euros. Still to much for me so been thinking about making my self now for sometime. Following your construction makes it easy done. Thanks ☺️

[@Weisz]

wow I might actually have to do this!

[@ThePneumanicHunter]

When I saw your slug collection the first thing that came to mind was using them welded together as a belt guard for an old drill press. Second thing was that I should make a belt guard for my old drill press.

[@cho4d]

that's just amazingly accurate i am blown away

[@AMBOSS_Silesia]

This is the best DIY welding table I've seen so far. Hats off.

[@EvellinDichev]

As an mechanical Engineer, i ould say, really well done. you can mill 0.1 mm from the top, this is jsut for aditional paralelity., but even now it looks and is amazing, and in 99% of the time will do the job.

[@Valera0071]

Awesome build! From a welding perspective. Don't hesitate to crank amps up, it will help with heat transfer (more amps, less time welding, less heat goes outside of welding area), and get yourself a welding pedal, it will be night and day difference.

[@noanyobiseniss7462]

I've never been a good welder but I'm an Expert Grinder!

[@gamingSlasher]

Brother!

[@brianwelch1579]

A good welder THINKS his welds are good, a good grinder KNOWS his welds are good. Too many youtubers are not testing welds.

[@gamingSlasher]

@@brianwelch1579 That is true. When I grind my terrible looking welds I can see that I have steel all through it and no porosity. It is actually another reason why I want to grind my welds. Just to see that I didnt mess up.

[@E1337Jerk]

Hey man thevwelds are coming along. One of the biggest game changers for me on tig was one be comfortable and two don't be afraid to put stuff under your elbows so you don't get fatigue mid weld

[@coolbugfacts1234]

babe wake up new marius hornberger video

[@sprN0VA]

I always enjoy watching your projects, but typically find them overkill for what my abilities are currently. But this looks like it's right up my alley as someone who also wants to get into welding. Thanks for sharing!

[@DylanEdmiston]

Welds look pretty good! the heat from welding doesn't actually warp the part (once it has cooled to a consistent temp). Most of the warping comes from the decrease in density during the phase change (moving from liquid to solid).

[@scottwillis5434]

Warping is due to: - Heat up the material: it expands, causing stress in the part, like stretching a spring. - If it cools before getting too hot, the spring goes back to its original shape. - Soften or melt the hottest zone: it loses strength and relieves the stress *in that zone, at that temperature*. But not in the rest of the material. - As the part cools, the previously hot zone shrinks: it's now being held stretched-out by the rest of the material. This tension causes the warp.

[@boltonky]

Always impressed with people doing this :) People say practice but people also forget its consumables and tools that cost not always the time.....Keep up what your doing def going to watch some of your other videos

[@jonathanlarsen4177]

looks extremely similar to Manfred Weldings design

[@Animaniac-vd5st]

Which is clearly explained in the description of the video

[@jonathanlarsen4177]

@@Animaniac-vd5st not entirely sure but that wasn't the case when I wrote this comment.

[@todayletsbuild2153]

Great work! I built a fixture table last winter and have used it a ton. I cannot critique your welding because I am no better. One suggestion is using annular cutters in your drill press. I started using them a couple years ago and the tolerances are way better. When I made my table with 288 holes through 19mm plate for the top it was very fast. Great work I am a new subscriber.

[@FLyyyT_]

Any plans for the steel chips?

[@maximemarty8544]

Nice ! I am definitely going to borrow this design myself :) A quick thing, for cleaning parts prior to welding use NON CHLORINATED brake cleaner, otherwise you may end up creating phosgene gas which is deadly.

[@Drebin2293]

Wore a sweater and used a wooden shield? Heh.

[@kontoname]

@13:20 "Hmm, let's call that step reaming" 😳🤣 That's definitely a cool project though!

[@carlospitcher4335]

Amazing project. You can make excentric dogs with expandable lock to compensate for the small errors in the table. That way you can always get perfect alignment. Excellent content as usual.

[@zzephyrsync4937]

I love your videos, but welding after using brake cleaner is no bueno for your health... really a bad idea to transfer to people who don't know better.

[@EmyrDerfel]

Chlorinated brake cleaner is not the only type of brake cleaner.

[@jameshisself9324]

Thanks for the inspiration on those saw horses. I thought when I saw them 'Ahh those Europeans!! I'll never find those in the US.' We have mostly either wooden or plastic for woodworking, fancy and too expensive or full blown welding tables. But I did find them and I pulled the trigger. Nice thing about being a welder is if they need a little stiffening that is a pretty easy change to make. Nice trick on the flattening process too.

[@MarcioTorres]

Congratulations... I wouldn't have this care and dedication. You are an excellent professional.

[@balazswittmann755]

Thanks for the video. It was interesting to see how you built the table 👍 One remark regarding the price: It's not just that you spent on the raw materials, because you had to use lots of equipment and you also had to invest quite some time into designing and building the table.

[@FirstLast-jl6fr]

Well done, nothing like your 1st big project to get your welding practise on. My 1st big project was my bolt together 3m garage workbench. Use methylated spirits for cleaning - a lot nicer to use. I find for tacking do it very quick using high amps - minimises heat distortion :o) Now you have a flat table you will find everything else is crooked like your garage floor haha. And yes drill from the welded seam side or risk breaking 3mm drills. Oh and always clamp stuff when drilling - its not worth getting a broken wrist when a tool jams; and you get more accuracy too. And one other knowledge nugget - do long\big builds in the same environment; I did a project in winter once in a unheated garage and measurement differences between the cold mornings and late sunny afternoons were noticeable in steel over 1m long!

[@violettownmicroenterprises1528]

Markus...I recently watched a vlog that explaned WHY using brake fluid to clean steel before welding is not just TOXIC, its LETHAL. !!!!!💀 More than welding galvanised steel.... YIIIIKES !!!!!

[@UnbeltedSundew]

One problem you might run into is the table warping due to heat input from welding projects, that's one of the reasons why the commercial tables are built of thick material. Really old school tables were a few inches thick (but weren't exactly built for accuracy lol). This table is brilliant though, and brilliantly constructed. Well done.

[@ScamstinCrew]

It was awesome to see your growth from playing welder to actaully welding. I can see by the end you had the "aha" moment of where to dip the filler rod to work the puddle. Keep it up. Tig is fun

[@blackbeton3923]

There s too much to say, accuracy management, Ingenuity, the little tips along the main topic… this video goes inevitably into my « amazing work and skills video » 🥇. And last point , this little dremel angle grinding accessory for tungstènes is on my to do list for years , yours looks just perfect

[@PandaKnivesRo]

I wanted a table like this for a long time! I used to use a plastic table for welding! :))) So... yeah! This would be a major improvement! Thanks for sharing!

[@AntonTubeish]

One of the best tutorial videos, thanks so much for taking the time to focus 9n the details and showing the mistakes

[@Rob-Hannon]

Just to re-iterate so hopefully more people see. NO BRAKECLEANER. Bad stuff in general, but extra bad when welded. Acetone is the solvent you want for metal cleaning. Also, a sweater is a bad choice for metal cutting. Chips will stick in a loose weave and good chance it is not the most flame resistant. Your drilling prep was some of the best I have seen. Great example of getting consistent test results before starting.

[@MarkH10]

To maintain the precision placement in the future heat the metal overall. I suggest you put heat guns on the ends of the tubes to blow into the tubes and heat the whole structure prior to, and during the welding.

[@Failure_Is_An_Option]

No affect.

[@nexorexo6600]

Wie immer: Klasse Video! Ich schaue dir schon lange zu und hab mir schon die eine oder andere Inspiration bei dir geholt. Auch wenn ich schon seit 5 Jahren einen massiven Schweißtisch habe und nicht daran denke ihn zu ersetzen, habe ich das Video gespannt verfolgt. Auch wenn die Präzision bei weitem nicht von nöten ist, schlägt mein Ingenieurs-Herz höher, wenn ich sehe wie du versuchst das letzte Zehntel raus zu holen 😍 weiter so!

[@jonabub]

That was effing great. Thanks for all the details, tipps and tricks!

[@BlueJeebs]

never thought of using simple HSS for this, but soon I'll need one of these. Great work considering the flimsy saw horses, also TIG welding has a learning curve. You welded, it helded, that's all that matters!

[@TomSkulander]

Well done Marius, a practical solution, for home hobbies what more does one need.

[@p3pp3r0n1]

Marius, I just spent the last few weeks watching all your videos and am impressed with your sense of humor, innovation, and best of all, the way you analyze multiple solutions to a problem and give your reasoning for the solution you choose. In an early random shop talk and also your first live event you were asked how you got into woodworking and you response was the answer is long, involved, and interesting enough that it deserves its own video. Does that video exist?

[@zodiotekgaming]

Certainly a fun little project I say. Although regarding the 16mm holes and maintaining their size I personally would opt looking for a 16mm chuck reamer (if an ongoing project calls for LOTS of holes that size, and usually relatively inexpensive ~£35-£50) as they maintain a + tolerance ranging from 0.02-0.05mm depending on which fit specification, just a machinist's POV but the step drill was also the best option there, good solution 👍 love this video

[@leec2106]

You could also use your router table to drill the holes, build the plate with out holes. Flatten the top by milling it. Then mill/drill your holes on the 50 mm spacing.

[@xxteeebonexx]

Hallo Marius Super coole Idee, mega Präzision. Steht nun auch auf meiner Liste für die Werkstatteinrichtung. Kleiner Input noch: Beim WIG schweissen bildet sich giftiges Ozon, sorge also auch bei diesem Verfahren für gute Belüftung im Raum. Die geringe Rauchentwicklung begünstigt die Ausbreitung zudem. Freue mich auf weitere Videos von dir.

[@madsm.christensen9221]

Love the tungsten grinder! Sharing the plans would make the world a better place :)

[@gianlucatomasello9492]

You can find a lot of plans and stl on printables :)

[@andre2028]

@@gianlucatomasello9492 Yeas, but all the Designs are not good

[@flyflyevich2039]

You are a perfectionist in good understanding! The table turned out great!

[@Skinflaps_Meatslapper]

The trick with TIG to reduce warping is to get in and out as fast as possible...that means cranking the amps up as high as your work will allow without burn through. With low amps, there's more time for that heat to conduct into the rest of the piece while you're slowly laying down a bead, resulting in more heat transfer. With high amps, the heat is localized and focused more around the weld itself. You also get better penetration and you're done faster. The other option is to preheat, which can be done in a garage/small shop setting, but then you're getting into more advanced techniques on less forgiving projects. It's a lot easier to start off with the get in and out approach, then pretension and flame straighten if you still get a bit of warp, preheating is usually reserved for when it's really necessary and in bigger welding shop environments.

[@physicsguybrian]

As usual Marius....Outstanding project, video, and results! Your welding skills have already taken shape. All you need now are a few more machines to have a complete prototype shop! I recommend a milling machine next. One with a DRO and you can forget about marking, punching and drilling holes.

[@leonm.4337]

Wow, what a great project again. Just as always ^^ And I know I may sound too carefuo now, but always remember to keep the air circulation when welding. Argon is heavier then air and could build up in closed room when you are welding for a long time :)

[@andli461]

Great video and project as always! Closer and closer to a 100% metal channel. 🥰😉 Not to sound like a jerk, but measuring with snap gauges and then use calipers, in a hole that’s easily accessible with the backside of the said calipers… That only adds one more potential source of error and takes more time. But I can of course be wrong. 🤷‍♂️

[@alexandercameron361]

Yeah you are, he is using a mic not calipers when using the bore gauge.

[@andli461]

@@alexandercameron361 Don’t like to start an argument, but what is happening at 4:00 and 6:00 Ish then you say? After watching a second time, at 6:15 he does what I meant he should the whole time. Using the backside of the calipers. Missed that the first time. Sorry. At the lathe the mic is used though… 🤷‍♂️

[@rsbharley4766]

Excellent video, job well done. I am just starting out in the world of tig welding . Thanks for taking the time to share. Cheers

[@Level3Lifestyle]

Can we please get a future update on this in a few months to see how it holds up ? I was going to build exactly this a few years ago but read over and over online that you need at least 12mm thick steel to not see warping. Amazing build none-the-less

[@jimsjacob]

Well, I thought this was a project I could try, but about 5 min in, realized I couldn’t! 😂. Don’t have that selection of tools and most importantly, not nearly enough patience to be that exact! Well done Marius!

[@kchinz34]

I'm not yet a master when it comes to welding, but I am decently experienced and can say the following with confidence... 1) Tightening up your "arc gap" (the distance between the tungsten and the weld pool) as much as possible will help you minimize heat input AND gain arc stability. Generally the rule of thumb is that your arc gap should be approximately equal to the tungsten's diameter, but I have found that it's best to keep the two closer than that if possible. It's very easy to accidentally pull the torch further and further away from the base metal as you travel along. This is especially true if you aren't looking at the weld in such a way that you can easily judge the size of the arc gap. So, frequently ensure that you have as tight of an arc gap as possible! Based on what I've seen in this video, I think this is the most important thing for you to change. 2) Cleaning everything (base metal, filler metal, even the tungsten) with acetone before you weld will help prevent the introduction of impurities into the weld. I would recommend doing this no matter what. You might be surprised what can come off of a brand new filler wire sometimes. 3) Don't be afraid to be generous with the shielding gas. A small amount of pre-flow is usually a good idea, but I strongly recommend a healthy amount of post-flow (5+ seconds; sometimes I find myself using 15 or more seconds of post flow). A larger cup size will help ensure good coverage, too. This is generally much more important for more exotic metals such as titanium, stainless steel, inconel, etc. but will definitely help you achieve a beautiful, professional-looking finish on mild steel as well. Hopefully this helps! Thanks for the video.

[@robertteap8052]

A tip for setting up levels.. I use two 6ft.lengths of 12 inch "H" beams, with large nuts( for inch diameter bolts) welded to each corner. Then with bolts turned "headside" down, I can adjust the bolts to precisely level the channels, to do this I use a laser level and a tape measure, a few minutes adjusting the bolts Ieaves a precise and perfectly level bed for welding larger pieces, eg. set wide enough apart I have easily made an 18ft.wide sliding door.

[@GenauMann]

Thank you Marius...I always enjoy seeing the work of you hands👍🏻

[@ehsanmorav]

Excellent video. I love it so much that you are so honest about your flaws. But, you made something that I will always dream of having. Thanks for sharing the knowledge and details.

[@SeamlessFab]

Longtime Tig welder. Mainly stainless and aluminum. You don’t need such an extreme tip on your Tungsten. 30 degree is plenty for mild steel. Also those little tungsten sharpeners aren’t ideal. Chuck them up in the drill and use a belt sander while going slow. You want your grind lines on the tungsten to be as linear/ inline with the electrode as possible. Not horizontal across the tip like you’re getting from your sharpener. TrickTools has a good bench grinder/ belt sander mod kit which works perfect.

[@TECsta76]

Good that you’re getting metalworking! Definitely a primo technique!

[@tonyray91]

Good problem solving on the 16mm hole drilling. I’d be happy if my welds looked like that.

[@DiHandley]

A big project with an excellent outcome. At some point in the future you might consider manufacturing an Optical Centre Punch for the table. It allows you to more accurately centre punch for holes.

[@madwilliamflint]

Ooh. I really like the look of that. I'm gonna have to mess around a bit with that idea.

[@mikeschaefer9516]

What a great build. Very impressive, looks to fit both your shop and what you do in there perfectly. As for the hole accuracy, if you would like to spend a little time, you should be able to identify which holes are 'excessively' out of spec vs most of the others, and then mark those with either divots, paint, or whatnot, so that you know that those are inaccurate when laying items out. And for simply just clamping, hole layout accuracy isn't a huge deal.. This way, you'd still be able to use the holes for actual layout, knowing that the one's you're using are very accurate!

[@HomineDomine]

A welder than choose a 0.1 milimeter tolerance for his welding project. Respect.

[@kentneil7100]

This is why you're channel is outstanding brother