I CAN'T Fix My BROKEN Mitsubishi 3000GT VR4! | PTU & Coil Pack Replacement

[@fredcancer8979]

I own a 1991 mitsubishi GTO TT came across a lot of probleme now its running fine i will never lets this car die its my hole world keep it up!

[@ryanhopp8940]

Miguel. Ive learned over the years on working on cars you can replace everything to no avail. So you're obviously having ignition issues. Dont dig too far yet. Think of something simple right now. Make sure the spark plugs are at the proper gap. It can easily cause that misfire through the rpms. Check plugs and gap (spark blowout). Next consider the fact your wires are defective. Then look into your injectors. They could use a good cleaning. Hope this helps dont start thinking an ecu issue yet. Start back from square 1. It was running great now it isnt. Plugs, wires and injectors. Eliminate 100% those issues before going deeper

[@MiguelDsm]

Might have to look at everything again. I went through new spark plugs, wires and cleaned injectors. Maybe they’re not gapped to spec

[@hjaltigto]

This is sprk plugs , spark plug gap or spark plugs wire problem 100% !!

[@MrDuhfactor]

@@MiguelDsm I agree with this dude..... your doing good, you've at least ruled out 2 potential issues with this video.....

[@pedroalonsofarias]

@@MiguelDsm I used to have a vr4 running poorly with new everything. At the end, they were the new spark plugs, just gapped too wide and they were blown up. I got new ones and gapped them at .27 and that fixed the issue. Hope that’s your problem too. Taking out the intake manifold to change them is a pain, but worth it.

[@brandonguerra2398]

Compression test also buddy

[@hiramwillis]

Start with a leak down test. I had a client that jumped a tooth on the cams and with the custom grinds on the lobes, it had some interference. Not much of a touch, but enough to cause leakage in the intake valves. Next I would do a data stream of the cam and crank sensors and scope out the rise and fall of the signals.

[@Intergalactic2000]

3000gt owners are some of the best down to earth people I've ever met. Always willing to help. 👍

[@racer98]

Except for SL owners .......... LOL !

[@thediddlefiddler5569]

Its because transverse/transaxle Mitsubishi ownership is a problem. And the first step to overcoming a problem is admitting you're powerless over that problem. See what I did there?

[@ezrayoung1485]

Very true I bought another sl and everything I look for is answered in the comments

[@mattsullivan4608]

i had this same problem. For me it was the ECU. i pulled mine out and it looked just like yours. however, i bought the chrome from 3sx with stock tune and everything worked great!

[@VividVr4]

Diagnosing this, even with a video is difficult. I had a 93 VR4 that was doing something very similar and it was off 1 tooth on the rear cam gears. Reset the timing and bam, worked like a charm. I replaced the belt and tensioner shortly after as I never figured out why it jumped.

[@DeathNRebirth]

As someone who literally just found this KZbin channel, it'll be interesting to watch this series. The Mitsubishi 3000gt is my obtainable JDM dream car, so I'm glad to see what I'll be getting into if I decide to purchase one

[@stoneybolognarly9376]

If you’re new to the mighty Vr-4 you’re gonna come across some issues. It’s inevitable. If you can grind through it and not lose patience, it will be well worth it my friend.

[@MiguelDsm]

Coming from DSMS this is fairly familiar. It’s just been a while since I’ve come across a headache like this

[@THEBOSS7223]

@@MiguelDsm You could’ve diagnose the coil packs without pulling them out

[@THEBOSS7223]

@@MiguelDsm unplug your maf see if it drives normal

[@BrooklynBounce]

I had a similar issue on my 92 vr4 back in 1999 and it was my ecu. I had it rebuilt and the problem went away. I'm sorry you're having so many issues with your car. Last year I went with a Aem series 2 ecu and I would definitely recommend it if you plan to keep the car for a long time. It gives you a lot better control over your car. I owned mine since 1992 and im telling you its definitely worth putting in the time and effort to get to the root of your problem. 30 years later I still get a huge smile every time I drive My car.

[@JorgeMartinez-iq2tc]

Dude this is a really cool car don't give up on it, not many KZbinrs take on the challenge too work on a unique build like this.

[@thecoffiehigh]

Check the fuel tank for rust... Also check your fuel for water.. and your intercooler for water.. also clogged injectiors if you have rust in your tank also disconnect your computer for the struts if you have that

[@nickhidalgo]

She sounds so raw I love it. Please don’t give up on it you’re a Mitsubishi legend 💯

[@adriancox8413]

Having the same issue as we speak 😢 I hope you find it and relate the knowledge! Keep up the good work.

[@MiguelDsm]

Hope we can figure it out. Comment if you ever come across a solution!

[@Michael-lg4wz]

Hi Adrian I had similar bad running on 4g63 and found a second hand igniter transistor which seemed to work awhile but then it got hot and died. I now use a 3 output v6 one. Id recommend coil on plug to avoid this its my next option.

[@mdargusch]

Verify the part numbers first. Not all PTUs are the same for all years if I remember correctly.

[@adriancox8413]

@@Michael-lg4wz that would be the goal to go that route but also looking to keep the car stock and not spend money on this one I have a 92 vr4 making 500hp and would like to modify that one to my pleasing. Might need to upgrade that one and transfer the parts but I’ll see these couple of days and try it out thank you

[@adriancox8413]

@@mdargusch I saw a video by (3000gt/gto restorations)on KZbin he explains everything and yes I need to verify if it’s one of those knock off which do work but just don’t work the same.

[@dimitrioskalfopoulos3473]

Brother, I have been down your street with owning 3 gen 1 Talons. My cars were broke a lot! The VR4 is a more complicated 4g63. I went from a talon the most unreliable car to the second most unreliable car my 91 300zx tt. I built mine and it’s been very reliable for the last 5 years. 600 wheel hp and track it a few times a year. These cars are amazing with a heart of Japanese samurai. Keep wrenching and driving. Keep up the videos.

[@ScenicCityAdventures]

You've got this Miguel! You have a whole community behind you to help. On my 92 my breaking up issues were caused by boost and vacuum leaks. So like so many others have said, pressure testing the motor and the boost and vacuum lines will tell you a lot. Can your Wideband gauge do logging? Some of the new AEM ones can, so that might be worth looking into as well. I know it's frustrating, but don't let it get to you. Alright, off to go put my new Chrome ECU in my VR4 before work.

[@TheNañezfily]

I would check crank cam signals if you have that and harness as well and does it do it when it’s cold???

[@MiguelDsm]

It drives alot better when cold

[@Anon56392]

When I had my 91 vr4 I would source all my parts from 3sx performance it was the only place on the east coast that readily had parts for it. It’s where I got my rebuilt ECU and their team helped me troubleshoot my issues, try reaching out to them. Hope this helps

[@Metroplexkickz]

Bro don’t give up on it 😢

[@MiguelDsm]

Just annoyed and concerned with it turning into an expensive fix. Guess Welle see

[@TheNañezfily]

But go basics first plugs wires etc and what are the codes you’re getting

[@neilbrew8985]

Those cars like stock style wires and plugs

[@adrian4g635]

check vacuum lines to the wastegate its possible you have a small leak. Also does your throttle body have coolant lines going to it like the eclipse? My car was acting like that too because it was leaking coolant into the intake manifold causing spuddering.

[@MiguelDsm]

I think I have a code for the wastegate solenoid. I’ll look into it.

[@tylercooper1058]

I was also wondering about the tb coolant issue too. I do know the 1g has that set up, not sure about the 2g.

[@DivoCapella]

I hope he keeps going with the Vr-4. As a new gto owner these videos give me so much hope lol btw the car and the footage looks amazing!! 🔥💯

[@DaimerPerez]

do a compression test. you could be down on compression on a cylinder

[@MiguelDsm]

Hoping not..

[@josiah7068]

Never give up on that 3000 GT… Once you get it right it is going to be fabulous

[@chadfrancis9753]

try a compression or leak down test. You could also take a look at the wideband during the break up issue to see how the fueling looks exactly when it occurs. You could also use a timing light and check the ignition timing.

[@MiguelDsm]

Will be doing that next

[@boostinturbskee5385]

I think that’s what needs to change here. Stop throwing parts at it and start doing diagnostic trouble shooting. Who’s knows how lean the car ram and for how long with the fuel pump issues it had. Could have burnt a valve or piston at this point. Just gotta start diagnosing and stop throwing parts at it. Not being mean but that’s where you are at. Too much money and time spent so far to be no where with it.

[@fredtheunicorn3863]

Just busted the transmission on my '96 3000GT SL a couple hours ago, I've only had it for 3-4 months now, and it's the worst feeling. Hopefully it's just the slave cylinder, but I haven't been able to take a look yet. I love it so much so I'm not even thinking of giving up on it, but I'm with you here. Sending you the best of luck on this problem, hopefully we both make it through! :)

[@fordmd9704]

Need to check fuel pressure under load, fuel pump resistor maybe going out not supplying full voltage to pump

[@andystep12]

Mine stealth Turbo needed the fuel injectors rebuilt. Also it did need coils later. My capacitors leaked, but my ECU board looked a little different than yours (1991) and had a clear need for capacitor replacement which helped. By the way...I replaced all 3 coil packs and one of the 3 went bad very quickly. Good thing I kept my originals and put the best old one on. That got it running great again. Did you check the primary and secondary resistance of the coils you put on? Sometimes new ones are bad. Also check the primary and secondary resistance of the originals to see if one was bad or not. That's all the advice I've got from having lived your pain.

[@racecardaily7864]

Welcome to owning a vr4 buddy! You’ll get through it. The best investment that I got on my vr4 is a standalone ecu. I can send logs to my tuner and he can usually point me in the right direction with finding the iconic 3000gt electrical demons

[@GSMMW]

Dude the cinematics was dope.

[@fangs85]

Hey Miguel, I had a similar issue on my DSM. Turned out to be a semi faulty cam angle sensor. I also replaced the cps too and found that the crank pulley wasn't tightened down properly (previous owner).

[@josiah7068]

12:35 The early Mitsubishi circuit boards head diodes on them . That is a later model it looks to be all computer chips I didn’t see any Diles on that one

[@az_3kgt714]

Surprised with a modded car your not running at least an AFR gauge. Tells you a LOT about how your cars running. And could save you from breaking stuff. Wouldn't take mine out at this point ever. If it isnt running right the AFRs go all sorts of funky and you know immediately its either not enough fuel or too much air. and vice-versa.

[@mikechau5701]

beautiful car man. These are so underappreciated.

[@DanielRodriguez-qp2os]

If you still have the electronic controlled suspension, the computer for the ecs will send bad TPS data to the main computer when it starts to fail and cause that sputtering. You can find it in the right rear of the car behind the removable panel. Unplug it and see if your sputtering goes away.

[@maverickcheston8874]

If it's still not working, I would try and find a replacement ECU and then try your throttle position sensor if it's sputtering. A bad throttle position sensor can sometimes cause this.

[@christian.adrian_2900]

You got this Miguel! The platform of VR4 is difficult and figuring out what’s the issue.

[@MiguelDsm]

When they’re down I can see them being a hassle but it’s been nothing but a pleasure to drive

[@joels6736]

Your car doesn't have the adjustable cam sensor but I still recommend getting a timing gun and grounding the brown ignition timing terminal. The brown terminal is located near the passenger side strut tower near the fire wall. When you ground this it will lock the cars ignition timing to base ignition timing, which should be 5-7 degrees BTDC. Set your timing gun to 5-7 degrees and check the crank pulley. If the timing is off that would definitely cause drivability issues. The problem is your car being a 93+ doesn't have the adjustable CAS sensor like on the older 91-92's. So the next thing to do would be to inspect around the CAS sensor, located in the timing belt area, for signs of problems. There's a sensor plug around the middle of the timing cover that can come loose or corroded, and check the sensor itself to see if it has become loose or the wire/harness are damaged or corroded. If you're going to be pulling the cover to see if your timing belt skipped a tooth then you might as well put some attention to the CAS sensor as well, its right there.

[@dancrum1095]

I bought my first 3000GT in hopes that it was a VR4, it was not. I wanted to build it into a VR4. I bought the $300 and some dollars worth of real books to tell you everything. Was worth it. I now have a VR4. Best car I ever bought

[@mariowright4383]

Had the same issue with my GTO MR, ended up throwing a tons of parts at it and it ended up being a faulty fuel pump and 2 injectors. My advice, like a few has suggested, do a leak down and compression test first, then a pressure test if the first two turns out ok. If all turn out positive, tackle your fuel and air mixture.

[@MiguelDsm]

That’s the plan. Thanks Mario

[@ryanwebster4243]

I owned a 3000gt a few years back and had the same issue and did the same things you did. What fixed my issue was the crank sensor. Located behind the timing cover on the gen 2s. After I replaced that the car was fixed. Before giving up I'd try the crank sensor and the cam sensor

[@stephenamejado6172]

There is a ignition condenser attach to the coil pack i think you need to check also

[@mitsubishikid1187]

I would do a boost leak test if you have any throttlebody or intake gasket/seal leaks another thing that comes to mind is check the electrical connectors for the ptu and the ignition coils sometimes the seals can wear out and you get moisture in the connectors and the pins won't contact as well as they used to, i cleaned all my connectors under my hood of my car the day i bought it and put dielectric tune up grease on the connectors to help keep moisture out never regretted it also made removing connectors easier in the future, maybe add a few extra ground connectors to the car, or clean up all the existing grounds, also i would think cleaning the isc and throttle body would be a good idea as well.

[@scottmcclary594]

Every time I had misfire issues with my avenger it almost always had something to do with the back 3 cylinders under the intake, it's very easy to screw up a bracket and melt a wire causing a short and sometimes the higher rpms has nothing to do with it but the momentum of the vehicle or flexing of the motor mounts can cause a melted wire to touch metal and ground causing the short! In my case when I removed the intake to replace the rear plugs and wires and valve cover gaskets I accidentally broke the bracket to the egr valve and forgot to at least ziptie it somewhere for a temporary fix causing it to dangle and the valve wiring to rest on the the intake exhaust pipe melting through the wire casing and short out and sometimes it would misfire or simply run like shit and if I hit a bump or simply rough roads it would pop my ignition fuse and took me months to figure it out! If it is a shorted wire (which is my guess) check near the intake or that down pipe you put in, possibly one of your o2 sensors or their wiring! Also for a short, in the dark(as little light as possible) pop the hood with the engine running and rev the throttle by hand and if you see blue flashes you've found your short!

[@raedkhan2219]

Had a very similar issue when I tried to push oem turbos to 13-14psi , had that hesitating feeling . And I replaced literally everything , the last thing I replaced was the plugs with the recommended gap for the boost and it fixed the issue

[@raedkhan2219]

My car only hesitated on boost tho

[@LegendCampbell]

Not sure if u figured this out but i had a problem where the car ran ok but sometimes the idle was off and got stuck in random positions, but most of all between 3-4k rpm it would do this weird putting unless i put it under load, turned out the egr valve was throwing off my ignition time because the exhaust was causing causing to much heat. Idk if the 300gt has an egr but otherwise don't count out electrical

[@G3T_R3KT_XM8]

Never give up Anything is possible we Believe in you!!!!💯

[@racer98]

Only does it when the car is up to temperature......same as for me....... I did go new PTU, coil packs and the IACV Idel air control Valve......but you mentioned you did all 4 O2 sensors, - unplug the MAF when its up to temp and see if there's any change - I had one owner tell me its the ECU //// but im going through all of the steps as well ! also check your FPR as well !

[@javier9082]

Same issue with my talon tsi check the spark plug gap. Di thg h more boost you need to decrease the gap. 0.28

[@az_3kgt714]

check your injectors and see what your AFR's are running when your breaking up. Also cant remember if youve tuned it since you put some mods on it..might be a good idea to revisit your tune and see if its leaning out at certain rpms. Oh yea check your timing. Run it up to 1 TDC and check and make sure all of your timing marks are aligned. These cars love to jump time.

[@MiguelDsm]

I had them cleaned and tested already. That’s why I’m a little lost. Have a local buddy with Evo scan. Just need to get chrome

[@az_3kgt714]

@@MiguelDsm im just trying to let you know what i had to deal with. Mine had a p0300 which is a random misfire. Wound up being bad spark plug wires. But first thing i checked was timing, then pulled the plugs out on the first bank and ground them out on the pull bracket on the front head and and visually checked for spark. Then had to re-gap the spark plugs because no shit at .038 gap at 12.5:1 compression they didn't want to spark. And the ones that came out were gapped at .028. Then threw in some 8mm msd wires and the misfiring cleared up. Sometimes its a combination of issues.

[@andrewmcintosh9832]

@@MiguelDsm Don't give up man! Plug in that evoscan and log a drive with it. It should tell you what is happening when it breaks up at 3-4k rpm.

[@az_3kgt714]

@@MiguelDsm Also your Cam timing sensor could be going bad to throwing your timing off. But definintly data log it to get a better picture of whats going on.

[@blackdemonevo9]

Not sure if anyone's mentioned this but I had a similar issue with my Evo 8 come to find out it was a loose connection on a fuel injector. CHECK YOUR FUEL INJECTOR CLIPS make sure they're fully and properly connected.

[@303_garage]

Hey Miguel! I had a 420a eclipse that I put MSD plug wires on and it would misfire all the time I changed coil packs, spark plugs everything. I know it’s not the same engine / platform but I did have issues in the past with MSD plug wires and I ended up using stock OEM wires and it worked after that never had issues again.

[@Chue_Media98]

I would check anything that has to do with vacuum or boost related. I don't own a 3000gt but I have a Mazdaspeed 3 and I had a probably like this where the car just misfire when I'm hitting higher rpms and on boost, even when I'm on wide open throttle. Replaced my coilpacks, sparkplugs, even cleaned my injectors and still nothing. Turns out my intake runner control valve was bad, and it won't open my runners to allow more air in, thus running too much fuel causing the car to bog/misfire.

[@craig357]

Right, different car but I had a 300ZX TT. When warm it would not start, sometimes even when cold. Found it was the PTU (Power Transistor Unit) that the solders would fail. If so, replace it and relocate it. Did this on my Zed and issue solved.

[@REISU]

MFI relay or clogged injector(s)?

[@battlebotlucas6498]

the smaller piece if you bolt it on the heat from the engine will melt it so just leave it hanging this is what i did on my sl and it fixed the problem.

[@LCVA257]

So P0156,P0161,P0170 are all related air fuel ration/drivability if your on stock tune that’s a major issue I don’t want to go into details. I would suggest start with that (you have no catalytic)

[@jebified]

Not sure if someone already said this, plug gapping? Buddies evo did the same thing until we changed and correctly gapped the plugs

[@gregorykolifrath2205]

you ptu plug is internal shorting, replace the plug & check for broken wires in area. lmk if this helps

[@MikeZaorski]

Did you look into walnut blasting? In the BMW scene, especially the twin turbo N54 motors, walnut blasting is recommended every few years. It's a very common reason for misfiring when replacing all other common causes like plugs, coils, etc. don't help. Especially since the car is older and is a high mileage car it could be very likely that the valves just have massive carbon build up and are not functioning correctly.

[@yellowdog2842]

Have you checked the crankshaft sensor? It’s easy to swap out for a quick check

[@MiguelDsm]

No I have not. Someone else mentioned it as well

[@rigozapien7752]

I've heard the ecus go bad causing misfires, something about not sending signal to injectors.

[@MiguelDsm]

I double checked it and it looked fine

[@rigozapien7752]

@@MiguelDsm hopefully another vr4 owner nearby has a know good one to let you test it out. On my DSM my ecu wouldn't read the CTS and ecmlink didn't find anything wrong but still replaced capacitors just make sure.

[@joevizzerra8012]

I had this problem before if could be fuel pump issue or Injectors I literally replaced Spark plugs , the wires , Coil pack , and Map sensor came out to be the fuel pump and injectors needed to be replaced and that fixed my misfire on cylinder 4 👍 , also replace all sensors man good luck

[@pkullick]

My Stealth did this when I put fuel containing ethanol in it. I put some 91 octane non ethanol fuel in and it's running like new again. Good luck!

[@grindersandgears3445]

I'm only just now coming across this and don't know any of the background, but one thing I would look at if you haven't yet is the ECU, they are pretty much all failing or about to fail by this point in time due to sub-par quality capacitors that weren't meant to withstand the test of time. Even if it isn't the cause of your current issues it should be replaced/rebuilt as PM if it hasn't been done yet. If you have a local friend with another 3s you might try swapping ECU's, I'm pretty sure they can still have issues even if they look fine, I do know that sputtering is also one of the main issues a failing ECU will have. If it is only sputtering at moderate-high throttle then 9/10x the cause will be a boost leak, by far one of the most commonly overlooked and mis-diagnosed issues. Stock boost gauge in a 3s is the ECU's approximation btw, not an actual boost gauge, I would not rule out a boost leak on that alone especially if you're modded and moving air through the engine easier than stock.

[@Bricallen]

maybe the type of spark plugs .... had a legnum here tht was doing the same thing ,guy had in ngk #6 platinums ....i had him change them to #6 ngk U groove copper and gapped them to 0.8 mm ...worked great after tht

[@jambo9142]

most problems on theses 3000gts is boostleaks , have you leak down tested your intercooler pipes from turbos to intake runners , it would explain the stumbling at 3000rmps

[@joetheshreker7634]

could be timing, could be a slightly bent valve, could be a clogged injector. see if there are any local shops that can flow test your injectors, the miss seems to start around 2500 rpm and continue into higher rpm, so you may just have a failing injector not flowing enough fuel at higher rpm.

[@twin_troubles8957]

Check your sparkplug Gap. Could be spark blowout. Newer Ecus like yours "usually" don't have the leaky caps like the early cars.

[@marlonswaby8824]

Dam bro the car is looking so good , don't give up you'll figure it out .

[@MiguelDsm]

Just need a slight break from it

[@verygreedy100]

I have a Caracas Red 97'. Hydraulic tensioner failed, new OEM one installed...20 miles in it failed...now got it back to working. Its a 3rd car and I was lucky I didn't skip a tooth. Intereference engines are not so forgiving to that sort of thing.

[@chenghuabvue1952]

Mosfit on the ecu can cause the issues as well. Also, check fuel pressure.

[@eddylorenzo5033]

True fuel pump cutting out or not keeping pressure built even

[@andrewgrubb5620]

Get your ecu checked as I was having problems aswell and it was the coil packs that fried my ecu.

[@mihairadupopa9402]

It could be the cam sensor, had kina same issue on my 2g after it was warm it wouldn't start, i changed the sensor with a cheap one and with the new cheap one was missfireing like crazy in load, after i changed with an more expensive one(quality brand) works fine, it coud be a bad cam sensor not borken totally but just a bit to give you headaches 😅 , good luck man!✌️

[@MitsuManDan]

They early V6 engines from Mitsubishi had issues with crank shaft position sensor Teeth chipping or flying off from the metal part of the crankshaft. Hopefully it isn't that but I would check all the basics. I did basically a whole system overhaul worth of tune ups and was not able to fix my misfire for a year and it drove me nuts. Found out that 3 and 5 we're swapped on the distributor cap. Ran fantastic after that. If you haven't run a fuel injection cleaner through your system I would. Perhaps you have excessive carbon build up in engine and and need to blow it out. However start the car and pull the coils from the spark plugs and see if the engine sounds the same while running or if performance is affected. Then you can narrow down the problem cylinders.

[@bojunli7551]

Usually shops are not willing to take them cam covers off especially the rear part on 3000gt. But it might be a couple degrees off to the "safe" side causing your car to run however misfiring badly at the same time.

[@bojunli7551]

also some one took off the front cam cover off going to a exposed setup... that's kinda a tell tale sign where they might have changed something there. I would suggest u give it a shot taking off the rear one to check it out.

[@faise922]

Try changing the distributor cap.

[@1rstGear]

Last time my VR-4 broke up like that it was running lean. Especially if you notice this while you’re on it fairly aggressively and it does this but it runs fine when it’s at part throttle. These cars are thirsty with mods. Even at stock boost they can act like that if the flow through the engine is improved. I’d check the plug gaps if you haven’t, your wires look great, I doubt it’s the PTU as it shouldn’t run right hardly at all with a PTU or bad caps in the ECU. Check your fuel pressure next. If the fuel filter is restricted or the pump is struggling to keep due to old age I can totally see this happening. I’d consider the fuel pump hot wire mod if it hasn’t been done. It makes fuel delivery far more consistent. But if the weather has gotten cooler and the issue is less prevalent in warmer weather then plug gap or fuel pressure are the two places I’d start knowing your plugs, wires, and PTU are all in good order.

[@IlianNachev]

Does it throw any trouble codes? Do a smoke test to find any vacuum/boost leaks. What are your spark plugs gapped at? What kind of spark plugs are you running? How much power are you making? Gap the plugs at .32 or lower if you still have problems. I’ve had mine at .18 at one point. Use Copper or Iridium and get one range colder than stock.

[@erickarevalo8794]

Last case scenario bro hit up chai at C & A auto center, that guy there is a Guru on these cars, but get that compression test on all cylinders. Also, you can check if it skipped a tooth by just turning the engine till the timing marks align at the top but i doubt you skipped a tooth cause you’ll get bad idling if a tooth was off, your looking at a performance issue

[@MiguelDsm]

Boost leak or spark blowout maybe

[@Raikokz]

I feel you Miguel, my GTO always lefts plenty surprises. Also had an issue with commutator, faulty commutator basically fired all 3 coil packs :D

[@duhduhlovo1670]

Check that timing and make sure those injectors are working properly. Harbor freight sales a beater spark plug tester that's visible wouldn't hurt to see if it's actually getting spark at all

[@MiguelDsm]

Thanks for the insight!

[@pxzel]

Also check wiring connecter going to ecu

[@hellsing187]

Have you checked out the injectors? Also check the timing belt. Good luck I love your cars

[@shueibdahir]

Once you get thru the obvious stuff, start thinking of the little things that are right there in front if you but never thiught of before, like out of spec gapped spark plugs, a piece of the engine not torqued down properly, vacuum + boost leak, grounding issues etc

[@francofalconi7057]

If yours a 98 (flashable ecu) have some one do a street tune also get a boost controller too I had a problem on mine were I couldn't get past 4 or 5k RMP Itd sputter /miss fire bad and after I street tuned it with a friend and also installed a boost controller my vr4 ran beautifully (I have a 98 vr4)

[@MiguelDsm]

It’s already on a Turbosmart boost controller. Just need to get chrome to flash it

[@charleskozak4102]

What if you got your ECU recapped? I did my Honda ECU and it made a huge difference. Old electronics...don't have to be leaking to be faulty.

[@danieleduardo6860]

You can polish the wrap with renew or something like that from Gyeon they also have a ceramic coating that works for ppf and vinyl wrap, I have Gtechniq Halo on my car and use Chemical guys wrap detailer or Gtechniq C2 as a topper.

[@MiguelDsm]

Gotcha. Thanks Daniel!

[@Kenshen101]

Sounds like fuel cute or break up check your pump and injectors what does the afr read?

[@MiguelDsm]

New pump and cleaned injectors. Afrs seemed normal

[@Kenshen101]

We’ll if that’s good and from what you changed is good next I’d do a compression test and leak down test.. if that’s good then next is wiring low voltage can do that to the coils bad grounds gotta keep at it but the car is amazing don’t sell

[@craig357]

VICS motor? Opposite side of the plenum to IAC. Heard that can cause similar issues.

[@jlopez65]

I had a similar misfire on my Ecliose GSX and after replacing a bunch of parts, it was a bad fuel injector. It ran perfect after replacing all ifuel injectors.

[@MiguelDsm]

Had these cleaned recently. Hoping one didn’t go out

[@jlopez65]

I also had the injector ls cleaned, but it continued to misfire after a few minutes of driving it. I finally decided to replace all of the injectors with brand new injectors and it finally no longer misfired. Apparently, a couple of injectors were bad. If cleaning them does not do the trick, brand new ones might help. I hope you find the fix soon. Do not give up!!

[@nerygarcia978]

You mentioned timing did skip a tooth did you ever fix that or is it still the same ??

[@07DSMTSI]

What is your wideband saying when it starts sputtering? Is it sputtering upon boost? Have you pulled your plugs and see what condition/ color they're in?

[@Snekul_Xfire11]

Miguel check the knock sensors if there is any. I had a super similar issue with my GST, the wire barely got cut and it would completely bog down and go lean under boost/load.

[@MiguelDsm]

Thanks for the tip. I’ll look over it

[@Snekul_Xfire11]

@@MiguelDsm I meant to type go full rich not lean. Good luck man, don’t give up. One thing I learned in the car game is, somebody, somewhere, has had this issue before. You just gotta find that person(s) !

[@CalmIcedSoda-vq1ew]

Wider spark plug gap and engine temp sensor / not coolant temp . Also know for being bad brand new . Worked for me on a awd 2g talon years ago .

[@antyoo]

Aside from checking timing and doing a compression test, I’ve got a set of stock injectors to test if it’s injector problem. While your ECU did not look bad, I’ve got the ECU out of my 98 that you can use for testing as well. We will just need to flash it back to a stock injector file

[@foreignconstruction3058]

They have a timing synchronizer it’s just a plate with notches at the crack pulley? If that is off it will never turn on

[@red_dragonracingsilvereclipes]

if you can data log the car Miguel maybe you can then see in more detail what's going on and can see injector duty cycle and that plus see timing and that when it happens. if a cap was leaking you would see a oily residue on the circut board.

[@MiguelDsm]

Need to get evoscan on the car to see. As far as ecu I didn’t see anything wrong with it

[@MacarthurGym1994]

Buenas, porque no le revisás los inyectores?

[@dakshinawijayakulathilaka1152]

Bro I had same issue with my evo iv. Check the fuel pump electric line. It was completely roasted. When I put new wire it’s gone.

[@ChrisPBacon198]

I've Always Liked The Doors one These because of The Scoops 💯 It Kinda Has an Exotic Look ! 🙂

[@YourSoulFriend253]

They actually vent the air to cool the rear brakes 🙏🏾