I did all I could to make the 3D-printed intake work...

We're slinging tools and tossing parts to try to get this intake installed on the car so y'all can hear it running! I'm running into a bunch of design challenges (as to be expected), but I'm greatly encouraged by all of you guys reaching out and putting your two cents in. Step-by-step, we'll get these individual throttle bodies optimized and eventually ready for boost.
Big thanks to ‪@MakingforMotorsport‬ for this video!: • Even more 3D modelling...
As an Amazon affiliate, we earn from qualifying purchases. Thank you for taking the time to use our links.
My personal all-time favorite screwdriver: amzn.to/44h8yHK
Best lubricant ever: amzn.to/46P4y30
Works great when installing a tight hose onto a barb!
Check out standracing.com/ for the latest in car tips and tricks!

[@Mutantroosta.Gaming]

stay tuned... did you see what you did there?

[@StandRacing]

Whoa... would this be considered tuning the trumpets?

[@Pocket4ce]

You can put a spring inside of the short hoses to keep them from collapsing in tight bends.

[@jonathanmathews8496]

Or on the outside of the hoses, should work the same if the windings are tight enough

[@Pocket4ce]

@@jonathanmathews8496 correct! Either option works, but an outside spring/coil may be best for airflow.

[@keilmillerjr9701]

Make a solid tube and only use straight couplers. It's what I did on the v-mount for my rx7.

[@802Garage]

@@keilmillerjr9701 Hard lines was going to be my suggestion as well.

[@Lifesabishi]

​@@802Garagei second a hardline

[@rylan71]

Hardlines with soft connections is always an option. Excited to see your channel growing.

[@StandRacing]

Thank you, so am I!

[@802Garage]

@@StandRacing Could also 3D print the connector tubes.

[@olegloginov2953]

Those hard tool steel sockets would be the last thing to fail on this contraption. Very inventive. ❤

[@StandRacing]

I got that drill bit glowing red hot trying to get through that thing 😂

[@operator8014]

It's an EXCELLENT design sample to show proof of concept! Keep refining as you identify issues!

[@itsyaboijoeysalads6300]

Frankly, I think your time is better spent working on the shape of the stack rather than the whole venturi experiment. It's a super cool concept, but I think it's a better call to build a solid foundation to get this whole project off the ground. Once everything is sorted though, then you could refine your venturi idea knowing that the starting point is already tried and true. Good luck either way!! also, I'm pretty new to 3D printing and especially part design, just want you to know you're a huge inspiration! Who knows, maybe I'll get to do something this cool in the future! again, best of luck! :D

[@danbee6407]

Exactly where I'm at! Venturi is a 'bonus points' addition; def experiment with that after the main goal has been achieved!

[@StandRacing]

I'm super glad to hear it! Yeah I'm going to optimize the shape first and then test the venturi concept after that point. Thanks!

[@gymbagheadez1525]

@@StandRacing DOOO IT please

[@Myke_E]

it would be good to see the internal venturi working to prove your own concept. if this work has never been researched or never published more likely it could be news worthy. but like with 180 degree headers on a V8, intake design has been tried and done for just as long.

[@mrgraysky9343]

this thing is sick dude

[@sammindell1090]

Definitely go for it. That Venturi system could really be something cool!

[@mixxedboyybuilds8273]

I just wanna stop & say I'm super surprised at how those itb's bark off inside of that plenum, really cool sound! I really didn't expect to hear much of them with the inlets encapsulated like that.

[@StandRacing]

I know right?? I can't wait to hear all the different echoes it makes through the rev range.

[@TheKrystiano91]

For the venturi project, ypu can use normal rubber hose, and you can put a spring i side the runner hose to keep it in right shape, to prezent it from collapsing due to excesive bending.

[@mengsenglim]

Would love to see you continuing the R&D on the Venturi concept! But I hope you progress on a pace you're comfortable with, rather than trying to rush anything just for the momentum and hype. I absolutely feel you when it comes to energy and budget constraints. 😓 Really loved what you've done so far even if it's purely experimental!

[@StandRacing]

Thank you so much!

[@leonwilsoniii]

To slove your straight hose poblem and create a molded hose. Insert a tight coil spacing spring into the hose. Next bend to the desired shape. Then heat the hose with a heat gun. Allow to cool or use a wet cloth to cool the hose while still holding the desired shape. Remove spring. Hope that helps, it's better than nothing.

[@Tooner_Tom]

I would love to see a solution that would work with those venturi tubes. I think that a hard line connected to some soft lines might fit this case or even something like AN could potentially work there too

[@RobertWelchman]

can you 3d print the crossover tube? maybe use a piece of straight tube to function as a flexible coupling? May also bend some hard line by filling it with sand and capping. Usually keep the tube from crumpling.

[@masterkendro]

If the world goes to s*** and we live in mad max times, youll do just fine 👍you're gifted man, keep at this!

[@stevenschaffert6796]

I’d love to see the modeling part of the process. But for a quicker assembly maybe have a O ring groove in the manifold and use some device similar to the locks on the factory Miata air box

[@elwindewitte]

Definitely curious about your workflow! Honestly, I'd be super interested to see if it works. It's always cool to see people try new things and I'm hooked on your videos already, so take all the time you need ;P

[@StandRacing]

Yeah I've decided it will definitely get tested, but after the shape has been optimized first. Glad to hear it!

[@poptartmcjelly7054]

3:42 in the spirit of 3D printing you could just 3d print an adapter collar that would fit perfectly into the throttle sensor and on the throttle body shaft.

[@doug12382]

I was just about to comment this.

[@Wolsss1]

At work we use Festo air lines, you could modify your Venturi ports to angle slightly towards each other and run pneumatic line to each port. Really solid stuff and rated to crazy ratings for the size of the pipe

[@josephzavala6172]

if you take fuel hose and heat it up, you can form the hose to the shape you want without it kinking on you. id just put something inside to keep the hose open when shaping it

[@determination6176]

keep the great content coming! I think seeing the whole developpement process would be a great way to share knowledge, and keep the interest alive. you already have a pretty good base from wich to build, and you are doing great so far.

[@StandRacing]

Thanks! Will do!

[@turbo_brian]

I 3d printed an intake pipe (4 cylinder turbo) out of PLA for the fun of it the other day. I drove it 8 miles and took it off and it melted a crazy amount. I think maybe the first pull was an improvement and everything after had boost leaks. I think lost pla casting is the most realistic option for any 3d printed intake pipes.

[@avsti]

First off, awesome video / content. Love the format & your video style! Interesting comment about waiting for an O2 sensor to heat up before startup - I've been operating under the opposite premise; that condensation in the exhaust from the engine start is the #1 killer of hot/pre-heated O2 sensors, and that fouling from carbon due to an unheated sensor within the exhaust is comparatively no big deal. I've even implemented a alternator-voltage-sensing circuit for my wideband controller so that it doesn't get any power until the car's at >14V or so.

[@keilmillerjr9701]

For the small venturi tubes, 3d print or make from metal a joining tube. Use two straight couplers to join them.

[@phopelain]

Totally want to see you work flow. And ideas you want to test come to life. This is awesome. It would be cool to see three idea tested back to back.

[@AndySomogyi]

That’s a cool idea with the longer runners inside the plenum . I’m thinking about something similar in my B230 swapped Volvo 1800 because I have a super tight area around the intake, so curling the runners inside the plenum would save a lot of space

[@codysimonson6260]

For the lines I'd suggest using plastic air line for semi truck air brakes. You can get it in 3-4 sizes and with a slight amount of heat it can bend and hold its shape easily.

[@seekerofthetruths]

Use metal tubing for the bends with rubber couplers to make your port to port scavenging connections. Could probably even print the couplers using TPU or something similar.

[@BjorkensteinvanJurgenheim]

The oxford dictionary definition of 'Smushing Force' got me good

[@tylerwebb4927]

for the small hoses you could use ptfe with some metal rods inside to bend them. Heat them up with a heat gun and the metal rod will keep them from collapsing.

[@FutureProofPerformance]

Just a heads up, don't let your wideband 02 heat up before starting the car, if they are hot on start up and condensation from the exhaust hits them then it's instant death for the ceramic sensor element. The bosch data sheet for the sensors says to only begin heating once the engine has been started. While you are correct that they ca foul up if they are run too cold that is really an issue of long term use with the engine running, and we are talking about hundreds of miles there.

[@802Garage]

Wonder if that's why wideband sensors controlled by certain aftermarket gauges fail so often.

[@stevenschaffert6796]

Keep working on the Venturies. Perhaps Teflon tubing and a little heat can make it work. Or hardiness out do metal tubing, maybe even a printed piece on side. Don’t give up you’re on the right track. I’d recommend printing a housing for the TPS that bolts to both the throttle body and the tps with the factory spacing. And substitute a printed adaptor instead of you Pittsburgh special

[@bencevarga6304]

The hoses used for pneumatic controls might be the ones you need for the venturi effect. You can buy either for pressure or vacuum I believe.

[@Cheezeball99999]

Sounded beautiful! As for the hoses, you could bend some steel brake/fuel line into your intended shape, then slide rubber hose over top. Steam the hose, and it will accept the new shape. Or something like that, I know steam is used to make homebrew molded hoses. I definitely want to see how the venturi thing works out, but your ITB airbox is a thing of beauty as it is.

[@thebowtieguy777]

theirs various manufactures that make intake runners that have dynamically variable intake lengths so the refraction wave from the valve closing comes back as the valve opens at 2 (or more) rpm levels

[@arjunmudgal4079]

You could try useing the more rirdged plastic vacume pipes used in pcv systems. I have some very robust pvc limes in my Corvette that could definitely run in slight vacume without buckling

[@DingDongDrift]

Have you tried PET-CF from Bambu Lab? it prints way easier than PA-CF, is stiffer (doesn't deform from bolts) and is more temp resistant. that's what i use for parts that are attached to the engine.

[@StandRacing]

I haven't come across that one, thanks for the tip!

[@shred1894]

For the venturi tube issue, look at how people make hard lines for water cooling loops in gaming PCs. It's pretty easy if you got your angles and lengths all worked out

[@802Garage]

Making clear hard lines would be really cool so that with a smoke test you could watch how they were functioning. Hmmm.

[@yungdomino4718]

a small pipe bender, metal pipes, rubber hose couplings and some hose clamps should do for the venturi part. at least for dyno testing until a more permanent solution is developed.

[@dubCanuck1]

I'd like to see the R&D continue. That being said, why not print a little corner piece for the crossover and then use straight tube/hose to connect it all?

[@user-Shitbox_delivery]

I think it would be really wonderful if you continue your ideas, I believe many could benefit from it.

[@CheekyNinja]

For the tiny tubes you could use something solid for the curves, like a large diameter brake line then just use the soft hose to join the two parts.

[@sixteenornumber]

9:05. Look at computer liquid cooling for how you run tubing at tight angles. Usually, you would use a plastic spring like thing that wraps around the OUTSIDE of the tubing. Look for "anti-kink coil"

[@kona5853]

3d print tubes(instead of using hoses) of a specified radius for better flow (hoses will kink and move around making more variables changes in the scavenging air flow). I think if you make a rubber boot for each end that should be sufficient to hold them in place. It’s an opinion, but take it as it is. Keep up the good work

[@osvaldocardona2136]

Love what you are doing! I agree that concentrating on getting the runners finished and working without the Venturi is the best approach. After that is ironed out, you can confidently experiment with the venturi. At this point I think you are trying to solve too many things at the same time. I also wanted to point out that a Venturi can choke your air flow if the demands of the engine surpasses the sonic flow on the Venturi throat. Not sure if you have taken that into account already on the design.

[@DrewLSsix]

For the hoses you can use a flexible filament to print them to shape. More ideally I would use a resin printer and experiment with mixing rubber like and tough resins for the best results. But I imagine you only have filament printers available.

[@blindabinda1234]

I'd try getting a good baseline established and then possibly afterwards try the venturi. I think optimising the runner length and lsa and cam timing events will yield much better gains than the venturi system likely would.

[@meanman6992]

Pre formed hose or aluminum tubing might wok for your intake manifold design

[@spitfire12able]

would love too see your processes and too see how this design progresses, if i was you i would put the venturi concept on the backburner and just focus on getting everything optermised

[@agentjwa]

i thought the heated O2 sensors say specifically to not heat them up before starting the engine. if you let it heat up you may quench the sensor with water/water vapor on startup.

[@Turboactive]

Damn it sounds amazing already!!

[@vladkruglov7719]

Greetings, this idea of 3d pronting is amazing, would love to see other manufacturer intakes addapted to the mx5 and see what gains/losses occur on dyno (sr20 to, bottom, 3sgte, 4age black top, 2zz, k20, f20 and maybe more)

[@thebowtieguy777]

couple of ideas round of the ends of the bell mouths mores reverse tge direction of the velocity stacks curve on 2 of them so they arent all sucking air so close together

[@ForOdin]

It sounds pretty good

[@jordanroos8787]

You can get make your own oring lengths that you just super glue the ends for the plenum. What printer you using? I'll also be testing my manifold soon to see how much pressure it holds with 5-6mm wall thickness. Also are you going to be annealing your prints and try factor in shrinkage?

[@ferdafootie1338]

bro that sounds so good!!!

[@alphaboltz]

use two short pieces of hose to make couplers and they hard tube the venturi tubes

[@burgerbait]

Aw man. The whole venturi thing had me really interested :(

[@StandRacing]

It's going to be developed and tested. After I discover which stack length/shape yields the best gains, I'll test that model with the venturi system and see if it improves 👍

[@burgerbait]

@@StandRacing That makes sense. Well I can't wait to see how that goes.

[@haydenallen888]

If all else fails, you can design and print some small “pipes” then use hose length as a coupler

[@miata7478]

1.6?

[@shawnrinkel8377]

Can put a set screw in adaptor to tps for a closer reading.

[@sixteenornumber]

Forget the static length. I want to see you make a trombone slide like velocity stack to make variable length runners. Do something simple like use an Arduino with an RPM input to adjust the length of the runners. If you can design those runners like you have, the slide mechanism shouldn't be much more difficult.

[@poptartmcjelly7054]

1:55 Wait so if you made an attachment to bring the cable outward why not also rotate it so that you wouldn't need to fish the cable through tight spaces? If you rotated it 45 degrees you could bring the cable from the top. Or instead of making the cable act on the forward most throttle body, you could make it act on the rear most throttle body, which would allow you to hide the throttle cable completely as well as keep it shorter for less friction.

[@StandRacing]

To this point and to the point in your other comment it may even be possible to run the TPS and the throttle cable on the same assembly in the rear.

[@CJ5EVOLUTION]

Keep doing what you are doing, do you have torque baseline from a Dyno?

[@hondatech5000]

how will you throttle bypass? How do you balance the cylinders at low and mid rpm (the throttle plates opening all the same) wot won’t matter but low like 5-10% throttle (or lower) a variation of 1% between blades will cause some issues. You could use a uni-sync but the engine has to run.The TPS should be checked for voltage I think you can get it correct with what you have but should check it to make sure it doesn’t have 1 volt at idle when it’s supposed to be something else. The plenum is going impact the reflective wave so your itb’s are just more complication with the individual runner nullified. If you banking on your runner being that much better and itb’s doing something then I would get a ms3 or something and make it run on map and test it with/without plenum. I don’t think the design is bad at all but the stock intake is going to have to be pretty bad for that to yield substantial gains. Lastly- half the deal with itb’s is the cool 😎 “I know I just spent a fortune on itb’s or stacks for little to no power gain, but they look cool as hell don’t they” your covering up the cool with the plenum.

[@StandRacing]

I hope to address your very last point with a transparent plenum cover 😎

[@cordellsmith1523]

Something that would be cool to see is to see a closed chamber with the same wall thickness be pressure tested. It’d be really cool to see a test that suggests it might be able to take boost pressures.

[@StandRacing]

Definitely a good idea! and it is on the drawing board.

[@christiancanales2005]

Do a case for the air filter for more cold aire

[@jetink600]

Fix the venturi. It was a good idea at the time and nothing has really changed. Gots to see it through my boy

[@not_virtuality]

Make some custom preformed hoses for the Venturi

[@tristangillis7365]

OK, maybe a dumb question, but wouldn't a hard tube be capable of making the tight bends while still allowing it to contour as you want?

[@DoItNowMotors]

My vote is to test the venturi concept 🤘

[@shawnrinkel8377]

I want you to try both ways. Y not make the first with out crossovers, then make a slip joint fit so no hose needed and print another. And cool project bro.

[@pch_mechanika]

Also get a lathe, the chip ones are really god enough (a bit bigger than mini lathe though like the smaller grizly makes) you wont know you need it until you have it - srsly really well spend money in my case to buy even a china special manual lathe

[@StandRacing]

I have a medium size lathe-mill combo unit I got at an auction, haven't used it much yet but I definitely will soon.

[@StandRacing]

It's in this video at 8:29 kzbin.info/www/bejne/rXy2dqCFo7yJnKs

[@manusnz]

Are you the guy that put together the 3d printed hard top plug to make a fiberglass roof with? (bunch of posts on Reddit)

[@StandRacing]

No, but I will have some similar content out soon 👍

[@outbackaction7264]

You could print your own flexible hoses to just the right shape? Might last long enough to test proof of concept.

[@JonSmith-mz2rt]

What bike are the throttle bodies from, they look like a good allround for any engine ? I'm very interested to see you progress with the venturi effect, i'm not as adventurous as you doing these things but does have me hooked watching, keep up the good work 😁👍

[@StandRacing]

Thank you! They're off a Triumph TT600

[@JonSmith-mz2rt]

@@StandRacing it does sound really responsive too, i would say I can't wait to hear it under load driving the wheels but I will be patient for this as I think you have come this far in development it's well worth it to continue, also another comment on here is a great idea, get another engine to use on a test frame for future development, like a fixed engine dyno as opposed to the usual rolling road 😁👍

[@austinhamilton9537]

Don’t be so hasty to abandon the design - take a look at hardline options. Take a look at braided or reinforced soft lines (similar to brake cables). If hardware is the limiting factor, consider clocking the barbs on the CAD to be coincident with the mating barb (or at least at a more favorable angle). I think there’s an answer here that would enable you to continue r&d on the original intent of the design.

[@bennanoman]

where do I give you my money? I need this for my 91 (hopefully a 1.6 version would maybe come out)

[@CJ5EVOLUTION]

What is wrong to use some pieces of pipe elbows and attach with short pieces of hose in between the runners

[@thebowtieguy777]

richard holdener has dyno proven results on placing the fuel injector infront of the mouth if the intake runner on a 4cyl honda motor i think your design could do it even better i would suggest a drain at the bottom to easily clear fuel that falls out of suspension though

[@AllYourBass666]

absolute Wizard

[@jjp5511]

you should try ender 5 plus 3d printer, from creality 35cm x 35cm x 40cm in print volume

[@teufelhunden222]

honestly man, It sounds bitchen. Like a mini F1 car

[@andershansen2201]

Is it just me or is that radiator really low? Do you have a filling/expansion point in the cooling system that's higher than the engine?

[@sniperpronerfmods9811]

so what material are you making the intakes out of now?

[@waby3175]

Would love to know how u got to this point with CAD I am only just starting out and would love to progress onwards creating more useful and interesting automotive parts with my 3d printer and fabrication background

[@StandRacing]

Glad to hear it! I have some things in the works 👍

[@raceinstinct]

loop-d-loop the hose

[@leveluplife8585]

I would like to see at least one revision trying to salvage the venturi effect. Maybe most efficient length runners first then compare best runner length to same length with venturi's

[@grownman202]

lol you didnt even think it was going to start

[@hdhellion4128]

I'm sure there is a silicone hose you could use

[@roboman2444]

Why not use a metal pulley on the throttle cable?

[@1993ka24det]

I have an Exocet in which it is nose heavy, so any weight I can remove from the front would be awesome

[@StandRacing]

By the time this is done I wouldn't be surprised if the weight savings are more impactful than any power gains 😂 I'll need to include a weight comparison soon.

[@StandRacing]

Just noticed your name. I have a 93 S13 🤙 All time favorite sports car

[@pch_mechanika]

9:45 why not take an aluminium pipe (easy to bend in cheap china tool) and make 2 90 bends and connect that with a short hose in the middle Then glue/ epoxy in aluminum into the plastic, should hold for testing

[@badgermetal]

Not done watching yet but you could run the throttle cable around a small idler pulley so the cable doesn't need to be perfectly in line.

[@poptartmcjelly7054]

4:45 Again, a perfect application for the 3D printer. You could make an argument that it's just a quick mockup and not worth the time and effort to design and 3d print. But if you plan to make this a kit then you will be designing and 3d printing these parts anyways, so why not do it now to get the job done. Because these one-off hand made parts will never make it to production, they only exist for this one test and after that, all the effort that went into making them will basically go to waste. Also iterating on hand-made marts is a major pain in the ass, it turns into an unreliable mess very quickly. But it's just my 2 cents.

[@sublunacy]

you can get gates vacuum/windshield washer tubing from napa. they have different sizes and it will work well. frankV

[@miatafan]

People love ITBS, but the stock miata manifolds tend to still outperform even the best. the BP really is a motor meant for boost. spend your time making a supercharger or turbo setup

[@philmariop]

Perhaps you could partner with Clough42 or other creators to improve printing. Don't let the hype override the logos. Ironically you need steady content to keep the eyeballs coming back. Plans for a hard top? Skipping one belies the aero ambitions. It sounds quite promising.

[@StandRacing]

Correct, the hardtop was sold. I don't think the hardtop would help me very much aerodynamically, considering that the car doesn't have a windshield 😁

[@pch_mechanika]

THe reason for good fedback is this is As grass roots as it can get and its literally free knowledge Also... you CAN make a product out of this for ppl that are to lazy or have no expertise to build them self

[@LukeEvans55]

N/A tuning would go mad for an improvement, even "very small" ones haha. Even if your venturi design improves 0.001% NA guys will salivate.