I don’t get why no one knows what these numbers mean

[@thomasjones3508]

It is so refreshing to hear you state that most DIY'ers wont notice the difference in performance and looked at the bigger picture. So many people fanboy out on brands rather than being realistic about the end use.

[@deereboy8400]

Secondary tools are definitely the factor for choosing a brand. But this video title is clickbait...impact drivers are awesome except for hex head barn siding screws where they chip the paint off of the fastener.

[@Jeff-jg7jh]

@@deereboy8400 Oooh, I hate that.

[@BLKMGK4]

Yeah, it's the ecosystem that matters and how quickly the damn battery packs go toes up! One cell dies and the whole pack is toast - that sucks!

[@pete_lind]

Most of my tools are makita , needed new lawn mower and Makita had "40 year in Finland sale", so i picket that and a leaf blower, because that kit had batteries. Framing nailer of mine is Hitachi, old name because they sell so few 21° framing nailers, that kit came with batteries and a drill on top of that . Makita garden shears are too expensive, so i got DeWalt instead and a battery adapter, it does not need much power, so there is no risk with battery adapter. Also laser levels and equipment for those, all type of brands, red and green glasses were same, the cheapest ones for €5 or brand name for €25, exactly same product.

[@joshuajones8455]

Agreed. For me, it was mostly about settling on a battery platform. That said, I'll buy non-dewalt tools as long as I can get a battery adapter.

[@soujrnr]

The advice to buy a combo bundle is excellent! I did that with my Dewalt set and it saved me a good chunk of change. I did the same thing with my routers. I got both a fixed/plunge router with all the bells and whistles included, as well as a palm router for times I don't need the bigger one. It was much cheaper to buy them both together instead of separately. Thanks for the great videos! My wife is out of town for two weeks, so I'm binge watching a bunch of your videos along with a bowl of Rocky Road ice cream!! Have an awesome weekend!

[@biscuittreewoodworks]

So disappointed Jon! You said there were links to all the products in the description. So after the video I checked but for the life of me I could not find an affiliate link to the pasta sauce! My day is ruined and my spaghetti is sauceless!

[@arturoromerojr]

😂😂😂😂😂😂

[@pamelah6431]

Classico is some yummy sauce. They make a good pizza sauce, too!

[@LethalLuggage]

​@@pamelah6431 the funniest part was going "is that classico??" And then him setting it down barcode out so I couldn't confirm

[@TechieTard]

🤣🤣🤣

[@treyhudson73]

You can see it's Classico eventually, but some probably recognized it from the back label. I'm wanting to know what that oven was!

[@AnnoftheNorthernPlains]

Your videos are great, straight to the point, no fluff, and humor inserted as needed LOL ALSO I appreciated that you kept working and showing what you were changing on the dial even while doing the food promo. I know content providers get income from ads that allow them to keep making videos for us viewers so I understand the interruptions here and there but i didn't even have to fast forward here!

[@h3lio5]

Ryobi gets a lot of flack but I used a $150 18v drill/driver combo set from them to build out a 800sqft basement, 16x10 shed, 12x12 deck, and build a bunch of furniture. I’ve no complaints

[@richardwang474]

They work quite well. They are just a very ugly color lol. I believe the problem comes where they claim to be budget, yet are not much less than something like a dewalt usually.

[@robbo1415]

Agreed. For me as a non-trade user, Ryobi has served me well.

[@5055hunter]

My 20 y/o blue Ryobi driver is still going strong!

[@ZyklonBeast12]

Ryobi will outwork 90% of consumers needs.

[@GregorDuckman]

Ryobi is like 33% cheaper than DeWalt across Canada so as a DIY/hobby guy they're my absolute go-to

[@jacob_krause_official7286]

Bro I needed this like 5 years ago when I started buying my first tools 😭Either way still nice to learn some of this stuff in more detail now. Love you and your videos, keep em coming

[@westhavenor9513]

Those plastic cases mostly end up getting thrown out, but I use the nylon bags for all sorts of things, car tool kits, carry-on air travel, shopping, etc. They're generally super durable.

[@ryanrank3070]

Something that gets overlooked is 12v vs 18/20v. When I'm working on something, I find myself reaching for my 12v tools more. They provide enough power for 80% of what I do and are notably lighter. For an average, weekend DIYer, I usually say to save a few dollars and get the 12v.

[@Lincolnstww]

I think that’s a really good point I missed!

[@mm9773]

I don’t know: my 12 V drill weighs 1.1 kg, my 18 V drill 1.5 kg - a difference, but it’s not significant unless you use those things all day. But it is smaller, which can be a real advantage. However, I quickly switched from 12 V to 18 V for the reason that is given in the video: I have the same weed whacker and a bunch of other tools that use the same batteries as the drill. Among them a handheld vacuum cleaner, which at 18 V just about sucks enough to make it useful. I’m not unhappy that I’m set up for the 12 V system, but I could probably do without it.

[@AlpineTheHusky]

Also depends very much on how the tool is designed. My Metabo 12V is WAY more powerful than my milwaukee that I bought because someone kept preaching about how great they are ._. TLDR dont buy em. Too expensive for what they provide

[@TheCynicalSquiddly]

Came here to say the exact same thing. I have an M18 drill but have barely touched it since I bought the M12 Fuel drill/driver set. The M18 only comes out these days if I'm using a hole saw or a big masonry bit.

[@zwing300]

I will second that. 12v pocket drill/drivers are the best option for any DIYer or Pro. Cheaper, better ergonomics, plenty of power for mostly any type of project, and safer for the user and the project. I have corded drills and a press for the heavy duty stuff.

[@AndrewScofield]

What I do with all those bags that come with tools is make 'go bags'. I have all my electrical tools in one bag, when I am working on anything electrical, its all there including spare screws, and wire, etc... no running back and forth. i also have one for plumbing, its so helpful to have it all in one place.

[@wdtaut5650]

13:04 This deserves more attention. It's where the combo really shines. Any project with multiple screws to sink will go way easier with the combo. 13:20 If the tool came in a bag, I use the bag. It keeps the tools clean and convenient, easy to carry to the job. The hard cases, though, are really useless. I don't know why. Just harder to put the tools back. I don't use them except one I repurposed to hold my pop rivets and tool.

[@adamdejesus4017]

The combo kits are marketed well during the holidays. You get a choice of one tool, one battery, or two tools, two batteries, at about the same price (for the homeowner brands).

[@wdtaut5650]

@@adamdejesus4017 Yep. That was my first combo: 2 batteries, a driver, a drill, a charger, and the bag, on special for Christmas.

[@jerryedmonds79]

I got regular tool boxes for my cordless tools. I have one with all my drilling/driving tools and one with all my cutting tools, with bits, drills, and blades inside. Charger and batteries ae in another bag. I grab two boxes and one bag and have everything needed to work.

[@thomasjones3508]

... and I feel stupid now.. do you know how many projects I have worked on and kept switching out out the bit?

[@Fatedfilms]

I like the hard cases with certain tools; like your pop rivet case - if the tool needs a bunch of accessories, like a rotary hammer with all your SDS+ or SDS max bits, sanders with all different grit sanding pads, oscillating multi-tool with all of the bits, rotary tool with all of the little Dremel bits. and of course the battery.

[@ralphhoney5334]

Living in Canada , most people use the Robertson screw head. 'Square' hole and MUCH better at reducing ruining a Screw Head under pressure. Not sure if they are used much in US but maybe you should do a video on the comparison between Phillips Head and Robertson Head screws. Of course almost all drywall screws are Phillips Head but we manage!

[@johnrehwinkel7241]

I learned about Robertson heads building sets in theater. Here in the states, we generally just get square drive, which is similar but avoids some expensive licensing issues. I get mine from McFeelys, good quality stuff. Another advantage is you can just stick the screw on the end of the bit and put it where you want, it'll tend to stay there and not fall off. They also were a minor plot element in the animated film The Mitchells vs The Machines.

[@garbo8962]

Used to stock the Robertson screws but switched over to torx. Cheap sheet rock screws generally are no problem when going into 2 by 4" studs.

[@robertmartin2936]

I use Robertson whenever possible but sourcing bits and screws is more limited here in the states. Big box stores don't like carrying the bits, and the screws will be stocked in bulk but if you ask anyone for the bits they won't know what you're talking about. I see them used a lot in cabinet install, but they aren't very widespread in DIY. We tend to go torx a lot here. All my Robertson have to be direct mail ordered for my area.

[@Zaiyetz]

One other note on impact drivers: if you work on cars, appliances, etc (anything with bolts that you’d use a socket set and ratchet with), an impact driver is amazing for that.

[@christopherlamoureux8617]

Can confirm

[@rw8147]

Yup, indispensible, especially for zipping out the 35 8mm bolts holding on the engine shields covering the top of your engine.

[@chemistrykrang8065]

Just make sure you're using impacts for undoing fasteners only, use a torque wrench (or the correct size ratchet and feel/experience) for tightening or you'll strip threads and shear bolts.

[@Harrier42861]

​@chemistrykrang8065 THey work fine for zipping on connectors, you just leave a few turns to contact and torque by hand

[@jonmullaly7497]

As car wrenching mechanic I can confirm impact is superior on nuts and bolts... Drills are for drilling

[@ollie54able]

Wow!Wow! WOW!!! This has been the most comprehensive explanation of the difference of the two tools I've seen, not to mention how to properly use the myriad of settings. Very clear and fully informative. Excellent video Thank you very much!

[@kb3cxe]

Great video. I just bought a used impact driver for 2$ at a yard sale, and never thought about the fact that every time between the impacts the bit gets a chance to reset. Thanks for bringing that to my attention.

[@teunstins3662]

A quick tip for Anyone who has a collection of un used tool cases. Saw out the interior plastic that should hold the tool and you now have a sturdy case for things if you are on a job site or carry tools around. I myself have a case for screws a case for straps and a case for kit. They are nice to have because they are stackable and lock together.

[@davidholmes4088]

I live in Australia. Your videos are essential in helping me sort stuff out. By not over investing in stuff i do not need.

[@AncoraImparoPiper]

I was hesitant at first to click on and watch this video because I felt I knew all there was to this topic after watching several other videos. I'm glad though that I did watch this anyway because you put a whole different approach to explaining these concepts. Excellent.

[@timpgod]

I 100% agree with all of this. My only Add is screw choice. I find standard cheap wood screws will snap with an impact driver almost always, whereas almost any other screw wont... My experience, I use my drill to screw in these screws.

[@morgan5941]

I never use the screws that come with products. For example, window blinds. Those screws are not only dull, but they snap even with a normal drill and often cam out easily.

[@MrWharfrat05]

Bro, you’ve made it. Festool driver, under cabinet microwave and delivery meal plans! Well done man.

[@MrLandslide84]

Lmao right. You can tell when tuber's hit a certain point. Its when those companies approach them.

[@hansangb]

@13:00 The time saved by having a dedicated drill for piiot holes+counter sinking and a driver for the screws is an oft underrated luxury. Like having a dedicated palm router with a round over bit or having a GlueBot. 😂.

[@mm9773]

This is mostly about convenience, not time. Sometimes I end up having to switch a lot instead of being able to drill all the holes first, and while I don’t really care if it takes 30 minutes or 38, it’s really annoying,

[@mr.upcycle9589]

​@@mm9773Time is money on a jobsite. Having both at hand saves time, which of course is more convenient.

[@MizanRahman-zc5wr]

A very clear and comprehensive explanation of the two types of tool. As a casual diy enthusiast I finally have an understanding of when to use my Makita drill or driver as I have encountered the problems you highlighted in your video. Thanks.

[@MichaelDawson03]

This is a fantastic introduction to Drill's and Drivers that will serve any newbie well. My biggest advice is choose a battery platform and stick with it. All my battery tools are Milwaukee. When it comes to corded tools, I am not a brand snob.

[@berzerk8010]

Just a random note your ad was probably the greatest sponsor ad ive seen in a yt video, because the yt video was still running and I dont need to skip, but I also completely got the whole ad. 10/10

[@Cobloaf69]

Been working with drills almost every day since i finished high school (6 years) and never knew the number feature. Great to know, awesome video!

[@mauricedelarosa6083]

6 years to finish high school or finished high school 6 years ago?!! 😂

[@Cobloaf69]

@@mauricedelarosa6083 I said every day since I finished high school, so obviously 6 years ago 🤣

[@justinmcgrath753]

I kept the cases for my drill and driver for years because I similarly couldn't bring myself to get rid of them. Two years ago I gave both cases away and haven't missed them even the slightest bit. I enjoy the extra space.

[@mcoguyaj]

Thanks for the lesson and I'm 62 and I always thought the numbers were the speed. Now I know. I have to say I had my Black and Decker battery drill for at least 15 years and I finally wanted an impact driver because as I get older I no longer can afford a mechanic and have been working on my Truck myself. Since I don't use these everyday but I bought the combo drill and impact driver with the battery included for 89.00 at Harbor Freight the brand name is Bauer both work great have had no issues and have had them for a while now. I thought for 89.00 bucks if they break after I use them oh well my bad and go spend 250 to 300 at the Home Depot I'm so glad I tried the Bauer first.

[@MrSpleenboy]

The electric clutch drill sounded like a clown car horn when the clutch engaged! 🤣

[@Fatedfilms]

I did not expect that😆😆

[@brendanlangord1687]

Don't give up, one day you will have to courage to throw the case away. It took me about 15 years to get the courage myself, but once you do, it is so liberating. Great video, thanks for sharing.

[@emmakai2243]

If you take the time to remove the form fitting bits from the hard cases, they're great as misc tool cases. I use them for go bags for the car (eg jumper cables, first aid, gloves, spare tools, fire extinguisher, etc)

[@shawnmurphy6657]

I actually use my big soft sided case on the shelf to hold most of the set. It is wide open and keeps it all accessible. Never used it to carry them except when I moved to the next house. 😂

[@davidvalletta2755]

I had a wasp nest under a board of my deck. Made the mistake of using the impact driver to take the screws off the deck board… got stung. lol. Love the impact driver for fast screwing. But the drill has its place. Avoiding the disturbance of wasps I learned is one of them.

[@emmgeevideo]

I think part of tool selection is how can I be more productive. At the end he points out something I'd like to amplify. Having both a drill and impact driver means you can quickly drill pilot holes and then drive the screws without having to change bits and (God forbid) change settings on the drill. In my case I got a standalone drill first, then a combo set. So now I have two drills. I'm working on a project now that requires two drill bits to create the pilot holes and it's so nice to have three devices with each bit ready to use. Slam, bam, thank you ma'am.

[@J4Julz]

Buy a paired set of drill and impact. Simple! I bought my 18v Milwaukee set 10 yrs ago (to replace a Milwaukee drill in the 14.4 format), that came with battery charger and bits for each style, smooth and impact rated. Makes a nice gift!

[@SandyMasquith]

Very nicely done! Thank you so much for putting out this video. The information is so clearly presented, without any silly personas or cringy jokes. I'm no "fanboy", and have some Milwaukee, some Ryobi, even some Dewalt and Ridgid. I'm a hobbyist/homeowner so my demands are not very stringent. I just want a tool that will drive the screw/lag/bolt or drill the hole in wood or metal when I need it done. Now I understand which tool to use on the hinge screws in a box vs the lag screws for deck joists. I've ruined many a box by trying to install the hinge screws with an impact...*sigh*. To be honest, that's one place where I'll drill the hole with the drill, then set the screw with a hand-held screwdriver.

[@slowrollout]

So oddly enough I came across this video 3 days after learning the difference between a drill and impact driver needs. My wife got stopped for a brake light not functioning, good thing I was in the car, he gave her warning and we were on our way. We stopped at an auto parts store and picked up the bulbs. I was passing an impact driver and thought " I should get one of those" but not buying it. Watching alot of DIY auto repair channels I noticed the amount of use they get using impact drivers to take off parts. I looked up a video on how to change out the bulb and it seemed simple 2 bolts remove the unit, unplug the bulb, swap in new bulb, put back together. I needed an attachment for my 10MM socket, thinking I could use my drill. The woman in the video used an impact driver, and she was very specific about using an impact driver. I drove over to home depot and bought a set of 3/8, 1/4, 1/2 inch hex bit adapters by Milwaukee. I went home and used my drill on low speed, low torque. It didnt work. I tried a socket wrench it didnt work. I tried an extension handles driver, it didnt work. Most hardware stores dont keep 10MM hex head driver bits in stock, you have order them online. So back to Home Depot. Now I understood the reason she prefaced impact driver with 10MM socket to remove the bolts. Thankfully Home Depot had a Milwaukee 18Volt cordless impact driver on sale for Black Friday $100 off. I bought it , took it home threw the battery on the charger, and hour later it was charged. I went outside flashlight in hand, headlamp on, as it was now dark out. Impact driver with rated extention hex adapters (1/4") and a 10mm socket. It took 2 minutes to fix. The driver unscrewed those 2 bolts out in seconds. Thats how I learned the differences and usefullness of owning an impact driver.😅

[@BoDiddlydodah]

That m12 driver w modes essentially sloves the one issue you've pointed out with using a driver instead of a drill (too much power and the risk of shearing screw heads). With it's ability to power through or operate with finesse, in my opinion it is absolutely the best choice for either purpose. Before this brilliant product came out, a separate drill was a must. Since it's introduction, my drill collects dust. There is a learning curve to the modes and their proper implementation, but once you got it figured out there's no looking back.

[@rtanderson2]

I have multiples of both these tools. I’ve never taken the time to actually learn what each setting on the drill is. Awesome video!

[@thestinkydwarf]

Dad was a Makita man, so I am all about the Makita power tools - he has Makita power tools over 30 yrs old and he was in the trades...took care of them and they looked after him

[@richadent968]

20+ years ago I drove a screw with an impact driver and have never gone back to driving screws with a drill.

[@Mark-l9k9q]

Strange how no one needed an impact driver until 20 years ago. They still don't.

[@mattanderson2074]

@@Mark-l9k9q 30 years ago no one needed a mobile phone. They still don't. 🤣

[@Mark-l9k9q]

@@mattanderson2074 True, and neither impact drivers, nor mobile phones have improved anything.

[@techringo6469]

@@Mark-l9k9q I disagree. I screwed down deck boards all day (about 600 screws) and at the end of the day I practically had to use my left hand to unwrap my fingers from the drill grip. It was a couple of days before I could hold my beer in that hand without any pain. With a drill you have to fight against and counter the torque. The two years later I did another section, twice the size, and just happened to have an impact driver. I didn't really know much about them, but it was available so I decided to give it a try. That new section took me about the same amount of time as the first, smaller section, and had no pain or cramping from holding the tool all day. Saying no one needed them 20 years ago is like saying no one needed a power drill 100 years ago, and they still don't. The whole point of tools is to augment human capabilities. My girlfriend has no trouble helping with home construction projects with the impact driver. If she uses the drill she's good for about 3 minutes and says that's it. Drills can't be beat for drilling but are far inferior to impact drivers for any kind of construction screw.

[@ryanhughes4845]

@richadent968 exactly my experience

[@TheGraffiti600rr]

I've used drivers and drills, have both on the kitchen table as I type this (I'll move them before wife gets home) and from cars to home, I've used my impact 95% in comparison. Drills have a specific job... not sure what that is yet, but my impact hasn't let me down once.

[@stroys7061]

I’ve been using the same cordless drill and driver set (Milwaukee) for over 10 years. I was looking to buy just a cordless drill when an associate at Home Depo suggested I buy the combo kit with an impact driver. He said I’d end up using the impact driver way more than the drill. He was right. Since then I added the oscillating tool. I use heck out of all three but the impact driver is the most used power tool I own.

[@BayaniPena]

Thank you very much for the explanation. Now I understand both tools, and its functions. Its been a while I know one is for penetration, and the other for rotation. But your visual example helps me understand better. Thank you!

[@jeffwilder7117]

Bought my first cordless drill in 1982, Skill 12 volt. Working as an electrician it was a huge help for a number of tasks. The first night I read the instructions to familiarize myself with it as I hadn’t heard of them before. I immediately understood the concept of the clutching. Another commenter said the impact isn’t as good as a drill. I found this comment to be wrong. After buying the Ridgid combo set, drill driver/impact, while building a barn, the impact was much easier driving 4” screws all day long. After retiring I worked as a cabinet builder for a number of years. The drill driver was much more suited to driving pocket hole screws than the impact. These are just some observations of my own with repeated use of both in building construction and woodworking. I like the Ridgid brand best as I’ve used a number of different brands over my lifetime. Ridgid performs very well and when registered you get free batteries for life! A huge bonus!

[@budm9982]

Ryobi - impact driver + drill. Driver gets used 50% of the time but the drill is necessary too. Just as you advised, go with what works. And for the hammer drill? A corded Ryobi. It's not needed very often but for masonry, it can't be beat.

[@sunburstmike8745]

I've saved every screw, nut, bolt, and washer I've ever touched ... why in the hell would I ever throw out the cool bag or case the tool comes in? If nothing else, repurpose it. Then again, I guess that's why my shop looks the way it does ... haha! Great video as usual, Lincoln.

[@MrPrime2357]

additional information from a keyboard warrior here: - you could have mentioned, that for really long screws (carpentry work) a really powerful driver is better. Impacts won´t be able to put the screws in because of the non-constant torque - the screws just heat up. I think you can even see the effect a little bit inside the slow-mo video at 8:34. - noise: impacts are somewhat noisy, drills less so. I love my 12V Bosch (non brushed) because it´s so silent. But there is the impact oil type out there, I think it´s called surge for milwaukee. - chucks are in general more accurate (less play) - imho hex > smooth due to form fitting vs. force fitting, less slipping - budget tip, for drilling big holes impacts are actually insanly cost efficient. it´s insane how much torque small machines like the m12 stuff can generate.

[@risingawareness13]

Love them both for how they excel at different tasks. Bought this Milwaukee gen 3 M12 drill & driver set on sale recently and liked it so much I bought a second. It's nice having two drills: one for drilling holes and the other for installing screws into said holes. Sometimes you don't want to drive a screw into wood without a pilot hole because it will split the wood on your project.

[@mcguiganmike]

Great advice on the hammer setting. I bought a set of drill/driver and it did not have a hammer setting. Three years later, I needed it so now I have three drills/drivers - but hey same batteries! Good video and thanks!

[@Mix1mum]

Next is the 1/2" drill for coring out apples. I mean, beams. Beams. Yes. Also best if you need to drill thru an autos frame. You'll burn up all your batteries with a 3/8th drill trying to get thru that shit. I recommend going to habitat or goodwill for a solid old drill that comes with the extra side handle, just to keep as a dedicated mixer. Grab an extra angle grinder or two while ur there. It's sooo much nicer, and faster, to just have dedicated grinders.

[@jimk8520]

I have a drill with a hammer setting. I also now have a hammer drill because the hammer drill is at least 10 times faster than my drill with the hammer setting when working concrete.

[@georgeferlazzo7936]

Hello Lincoln ST Wood Works I just found your channel and subscribed. Thank you for posting this video today. However, I already bought M12 combo kit from Home Depot a while back. I do use my tools. There's always something to learn. Thank you 😊

[@givemeanaxe]

as a person uses these tools everyday, and rents or sales them nearly as often, this was a very good video. Great work and.... nice way to do the ad too by the way. 😊

[@saeklin]

If you get an impact driver, make sure the collar is a simple "push in to lock" operation. Some require you to pull the collar while inserting the bit and it gets old real fast.

[@brian1204]

DIYer here; never used an impact driver, and my current drill has a clutch but no other settings. I’m guessing it is all “drill mode”. I use the Mechanic brand which works great for me. The combo kit seems great to me since I’ve spent way too much time trading out bits for drivers! For yard tools I use EGO electrics.

[@SYBEX21]

Love this video thx! I worked at Lowe's for 4 years inthe tools dept. and I had the question of "which is the best" and that often related to I want to show off how much money I have not which one is actually the best. I often gave the advice of you are buying a battery system because they are not interchangable. Look at the complete tool line to see were you might expand into later. I love Dewalt (I got a discount at the store were I worked to buy my line of tools). But in my personal opinion the M18 line is the most complete line of tooling for DIY home-car-trade tools. Drill or Driver? Wait til November most box stores will have the combo sets on discount for the holidays.

[@mm9773]

My decision-making was strictly practical when I chose the system: 1. Least annoying colour 2. Best line of tools for my needs So I went with Makita, especially because some of their stuff comes in black. Also because their gardening tools are pretty good, but that was a lucky bonus.

[@SYBEX21]

@@mm9773 Thats a valid reason(s). Buy what you need.

[@davebennett5069]

ooh, new camera. fancy pants over here. the production value has increased, panning shots of products, well centered, etc. Also, that's the best way to get people to stick through an ad read. keep doing things relevant to the video content...brilliant!

[@Suicaedere666]

Beautiful video, very well done and informative with a little Lincoln Street flare💜 Keep up the great work brother🙌⚡️🙌

[@jonathanlee7355]

Great information! My 1st cordless drill was a porter cable. I bought it cuz it had high torque. Served me well for a good 10 years until batteries died and new ones became too expensive. Ended up buying Bauer brand that has the hammer feature from harbor freight. I'm a DIYer and don't need anything too fancy and that's exactly that. Only issue is if driving a long screw or something is torque heavy, it's cuts out like if it overheats or something.

[@MR-si1eq]

I gotta say that I agree about 99% with your opinion or comments agout this. I do like staying with one battery. As for which one? I will go by dependability. Light weight? Not always. Price does play a part. Sometimes buying 2 tools separately is cheaper than a combo. But lately they have had some pretty good deals. Love your channel and attitude. Sarcasm ❤

[@joet3935]

For the M12 vs M18 Milwaukee debate, I'd say the most important thing to consider is whether you want a battery powered circular saw or saber/reciprocating saw. The M12 circular saw is okay for cutting 2x4's and less than 1/2" plywood. The M12 hackzall will take its time cutting a 2x4. I use my m12 hackzall for drywall, pruning, and plastic. The corded sawzall is still more powerful than the battery ones, so going all m12 and getting a corded circular saw and corded sawzall should be considered.

[@kevinmontgomery1054]

#1) The bag/box keep your tools clean when stored in the garage - no dust, sawdust, spiders, bugs, leaves, etc on the tools. #2) The bag/box keeps all related stuff organized and together. The drill, battery, extra battery, charger, bits, extensions, etc are all together. No hunting or forgetting. Grab the bag and you've got everything you need.

[@jamesbarisitz4794]

Get some Klein toolbags for the accessories. Amazon has different types and sizes that are amazing high quality at a good price. Chuck a couple of silica gel packets in all your bags.

[@givemeanaxe]

The bag/box is for filling with rocks ducttaped together so they feel likenthey are full of tools and batteries. Padlock them closed and leave them accessable so theives looking fkr targets of opportunity geab them first and run hoping to nab a few batteries they can sell. But just get rocks instead.

[@Crayma800]

​@@jamesbarisitz4794the Amazon tool bag (large) is perfect for a drill, 2 batteries and a 50pc bit set. Also, thanks for the tip about the silica gel! Will grab some from work tomorrow!

[@jamesbarisitz4794]

​@Crayma800 Glad to help. 👍

[@MikeKunkel]

I spent 10+ years working professionally as a woodworker. I absolutely will not ever go without a 1/4" impact driver ever again. I literally only use a drill for drilling holes, and I only drill pilot holes when necessary. I already have my setup, but for most household use, I would definitely buy a 1/4" impact driver before I bought a drill, but I find that household uses call for driving screws far more often than drilling holes.

[@DrNickBailey]

Really superb video - I've had both for a year or so and this has been very helpful in furthering my knowledge of how to best use them. And yes, my box has also become somewhat surplus to requirement yet I'm not able to recycle it!

[@tomforward990]

30 year pro renovation contractor. I have been on multiple platforms. Milwaukee,Dewalt, and Makita. Makita takes the cake for durability in my experience. Battery tech is lacking a bit but other than that they hold up.

[@taxxzempt3576]

I have a dewalt brushless impact. I’m a professional electrician. The tool lasted me over 7 years of daily use and abuse. Absolutely love impacts and would never even consider swapping with a drill. However I do not use my impact as a drill. Dedicated drill for drilling lol. Use tools as they were intended and they will last forever

[@DustyWolfWoodworks]

love your videos! keep up the good work. And FYI, You'll never put your drill or driver back into it's bag or case, throw it away now and save yourself the trouble of tripping over it! **Cheers!**

[@erikmacaluso]

You can fit larger than half inch drill bits into a half inch chuck, btw.

[@micron001]

Yes, they're called Prentice drill bits.

[@daltonn.lindd22]

Been using drills for a long time and am still learning lol great video

[@THANATOSIXU]

I have both and a cabinet drill. The cabinet drill has interchangeable heads for different applications. I use all three, but boy is that cabinet drill small, and very practical for most applications where high torque isnt necessary.

[@BitsOfEternity]

Pro tip, turn the pasta sauce jar, instead of twisting the lid. When twisting the lid, one uses the small muscles between the fingers, but when twisting the jar, one can lock the hand that holds the lid, while using the wrist to turn the jar. You're welcome.

[@SeansWoodBarn]

I apologize if my comment is redundant. I just watched this, and I did not want to scroll back through all of the previous comments. Another great feature of most modern drills... once you get the keyless chuck completely tightened down, if you "click" it the opposite direction ever so slightly, it actually locks the chuck so you do not have to deal with the chuck disengaging if you happen to need to be run it reverse!

[@Lincolnstww]

@@SeansWoodBarn turns out that’s not actually true. Someone contacted the chuck manufacturers last year and made a video about it. Urban legend

[@SeansWoodBarn]

@Lincolnstww Thanks for that info, I'll look into that. These days you never know what to believe anymore?

[@SeansWoodBarn]

@@Lincolnstww Dug a little deeper into this. My next door neighbor, "part time", this is their beach house. He recently retired as the Senior VP of HR for Black and Decker. His retirement job is a consultant for that same department. He helped me get most of my Dewalt stuff at cost, good neighbor to have? He went back to get me the old laser line that has since been long deleted as an option on the Dewalt miter saw. The story goes, he had to go into the "discontinued closet" to find me one. Asked him about the theory of the locking chuck and he confirmed that yes, that was it's intended purpose, but it did have its faults, and they chose not to describe it has such to avoid any backlash from the occasional failures? Always going to be a topic for discussion, but I use 2 Dewalts all day every day, and have never had one slip a bit during my day to day life as a Maintenance Technician for a nationwide ISP? Not doubting any info you may have found, just saying... there are plenty of professionals out here in the field confirming it works? Maybe a great video in the making?? I would love to see some side by side comparisons?

[@kbsanders]

3:07 Shots fired.

[@treyhudson73]

Again at 7:09 😂

[@donclay3511]

Thanks. I didn't know all that. About those bags, though. I started putting other tools into one of them. Now it's impossibly full of tools that are great to start out with before getting all the other ones out. And, the zipper has held out ... for about 20 years or so.

[@GF-ph1jp]

For most of my woodworking projects I prefer to use a drill to drive screws as I have more control by using the clutch function, especially when working with 3/4” lumber or thinner material. However, if I am doing a project with construction lumber (e.g., 2x4) where I am not as concerned about over driving the screw, an impact driver is my tool of choice. Bottom line is that the right tool to use depends on the application as to how much control, speed and/or power/torque you need, as well as the type of fasteners.

[@meanderinoranges]

I never use the clutch when running screws into wood. The torque needed for a flush screw varies too much. When working with metal, the clutch can come in handy, though.

[@gregNFL]

I like the way that you work in your sponsor message while you keep working. Also, thanks for the helpful info.

[@BrianStDenis-pj1tq]

While I was skeptical of your title, your conclusion at the end was right on. Summary: if you only get one of those two type of tools, for sure get the drill. But, an impact driver is an amazing tool and I use it more frequently than my drill. If you can, get both in the first kit you get, saves money versus buying tools one at a time.

[@JamesOKeefe-US]

Best ad integration I've seen. Kept the video going. Nice work.

[@compunurse]

I use the bag I got with my combo kit, not to put in the drill and driver and saw and batteries and charger. But rather to use at Aldi‘s when I go grocery shopping. That way I don’t have to keep buying their flimsy paper bags. Besides that, it looks pretty cool to walk out with your groceries in a tool bag.

[@TheOtherBill]

I agree the plastic cases are mostly useless although I do keep my angle grinder stored in its case - since retirement I rarely use it. However, the canvas bags are always useful for other purposes, such as a range bag or an overnight bag. The larger ones will hold a couple, tools, a charger, and several batteries for ease of transport.

[@duudsuufd]

I keep all my power tools in the plastic cages. Keeps the dust away and you can pile up the boxes. Not so interesting if you need them every day of course.

[@pinkytaylor5845]

The bags are now my husband's luggage. He can always spot them on the carousel. ❤❤❤

[@richpeggyfranks490]

I used a large Milwaukee combo tool bag as luggage. It went missing at the airport and never made it to the carousel. Luckily, it was found near a dumpster, opened and abandoned. The thief was a baggage employee spotted on camera. I figure he thought it was a bag full of new Milwaukee tools. Haha. I switched back to a regular bag. Thx.

[@MusicMike747]

Secret Tip I learned last year: Most drills have a feature that is not listed in the manuals and most people don’t know about. After securing the chuck until it clicks? Give it one short click in the OPPOSITE direction. It locks the bit in place. You’re welcome 😇

[@Lincolnstww]

@@MusicMike747 turns out that’s not true. Someone did a video on it and contacted the two manufacturers of drill chucks. They said no

[@paddymalky1979]

My makita 18v 1.3 amh batteries have gone after 16 years use, served me well building everything in house and garden. Just picked up a new makita 18v 2.0 amh drill driver set for £150. Hoping another happy 10+years building stuff. Retired my old set to use doing basic tasks at work ( wee drilling screwing jobs that dont need much power or torque). Dont have the heart to chuck out the cases tho.

[@A_Renaissance_Man]

Your finishing comment on bags and cases was the star of the show.

[@andy_ppp]

I always assumed impact drivers were the exact same as a drill. Very helpful thanks 🙏🏻

[@mattfranklin8422]

Nice job making your Ad read less intrusive to the flow of the video, much appreciated.

[@chrismoore6359]

Why are you calling me out with the bad/case?!!??! Good video: thanks. I love to have both for the reason you said at the end: have one for drilling holes and the other for driving the facet.

[@marvinostman522]

I noticed that you switched from a Phillips head screw to a torx. There has been so much effort put into making Phillips screws from camping out. Research the Phillips screw you will find it was specifically made to cam out to prevent over tightening and breaking.

[@jasonoliver6751]

Instructional and informational, straight to the point and no dressed up bullshit. Fantastic Job!

[@paulmartin2348]

All of your comments are perfect and correct. Anyone driving (or using) Phillips screws for anything deserves to cam-out. I hate them. (they are actually designed to cam-out, it's a feature)

[@jimk8520]

Don’t let the availability of a particular tool decide which manufacturer the rest of your 18v tools will be simply due to battery compatibility. These days there are battery adapters available allowing one to mix and match 18v tools and batteries. Now one can get the best tool for the job without worrying about stocking a veritable plethora of batteries and chargers to use it.

[@mullingreen8370]

Can’t emphasize enough how nice the Milwaukee 12V Fuel Surge impact driver is… definitely not a mechanics driver, but it gives a more consistent torque (you’ll never break a bit intentionally), and it’s 50% quieter. Very very nice impact I use in woodwork to drive screws. Highly recommend for anyone willing to shell out $200 for an impact. I will note that I never (unless I have no other option) use my impact for drilling holes. When I’m drilling, precision and clean exit holes are very important. I want a consistent rotation and torque level. But both are valuable and should be bought together…. But if you have to buy only one, you need the drill!

[@raymonddonovan3297]

Just an anecdote, I have never seen a 1/4” impact driver shatter a bit before, impact rated or not. I do my work assuming impact rated 1/4” bits are snake oil. I will update if I ever regret this.

[@petrsidlo7614]

same here, granted I mostly use a drill since I mostly use smaller fasteners and pre drill everything, and having a clutch is more important to me than having more power to drive the screw. but specialty bit for impact always seemed a bit unnecessary.

[@WyldfireKeeper]

I have. The entire head of the bit broke off right at the first shoulder. Granted, it was a cheap Chinese made Torx bit that came with something that I bought. But it can happen. I do think it is very rare though.

[@Lincolnstww]

@@WyldfireKeeper that was my experience too. Like you said, doesn’t happen often

[@cncgeneral]

My milwaukee m18 fuel impact driver snaps bits quite frequently

[@oliver299d]

I've shattered plenty of them over the years, in fact I have noticed that the name brand ones seem to shatter more than the cheap ones for whatever reason.

[@patrickfiles6080]

Excellent explanations--I like having the drill set up for pilot holes and the driver set up with a screw bit. But I have overdriven screws with the impact driver, splitting wood and breaking screws on occasion. And those bags that tools come in: if you have children, you can use the bags to put together a small tool kit for them when they move out. Granted, you might have to wait a few years depending on their ages . . . and their inclination to keep living at your house well into their 20s 🙂

[@gabtrid4god]

Spent 10 years only using drills working for my Pops. Moved onto construction work and sites and someone asked if I would like to use an impact. My reaction was "???? What's an impact?". Certainly got quite the look 🤣

[@Dave-ct1jk]

I bought the mulwaukee m12 combo kit for my woodworking and round the house tools. I find the bag very useful for holding my charger and drill/driver bits. So I just grab the bag and go to where im working

[@marlinstudio.]

great video. The usual amount of fact and Lincoln St. Wit. makes for an informative and entertaining watch. Personally I use the drill to drill and the impact to drive screws. With practice on the trigger the impact can be controlled to a limit. For screws in to flat pack furniture I use either the impact or a ratchet screw driver.

[@68HC060]

Mechanical clutch also allows you to use it as a pseudo-"impact" drive - I've needed that a couple of times; it's great for unscrewing old rusty screws without breaking them (note: sometimes you'll need to go back and forth in direction a few times).

[@hdlivemodels]

The drill driver is for drilling and wood/material fasteners (screws and drill bits) The impact driver/wrench is for fasteners with a threaded counterpart. (Nuts and bolts)

[@davewitter6565]

When I retired I replaced all for corded tools with Matika that used the same battery. I am a complete amateur but feel like Tim Allen whenever I use my battery powered Makitas.

[@ChrisStCyr-gnt7]

Thanks for recognizing DIYers and hobbyist have different needs that professionals.

[@monteglover4133]

Do Not buy over powered drills or drivers, for 99% of my usages I use my M-12 drill and/or driver over my M-18 drill or driver. The M-12 are much lighter and smaller and lighter therefore easier to use.

[@FoldingScreenMonkey]

My M12 impact can fully sink timber screws. The M18 can probably sink them faster but the difference probably isn't worth the price or weight

[@Comm0ut]

Beware of generalizations. Some tasks require serious power, like removing CV axle nuts, shaft yoke bolts and damper bolts. Again not everyone is just hanging pictures. Light tools for light work and heavy hitters for more demanding work make each task dramatically easier.

[@monteglover4133]

@@Comm0ut You appear to be equating an impact driver with an impact wrench, they are vastly different I highly doubt that my M-18 impact driver would remove lug nuts where as my 1/2” impact wrench no sweat

[@MarvinRader]

@@monteglover4133 You are correct that you need an impact wrench to remove lug nuts. I have the Milwaukee M-18 Impact wrench Model # 2863-20, it has 1400 ft lbs of torque! I used it to remove a CV axle nut, when nothing else would budge it. It also makes quick work when removing any large bolts from the car. This impact wrench can use the same M-18 batteries I use on my Drill and my Impact driver. I find the M-18 impact driver is actually pretty light weight for the power it has and better balanced than the M-12 impact driver we have at work. Plus the M-18 batteries last much longer than M-12 when putting in deck screws or anything that requires a lot of run time, even when using the smallest M-18 batteries.

[@nate32015]

@@Comm0ut I think his comment is just that the m12 is an f150, and that you shouldn't be tricked into buying an f350 just because it has more power. Of course there is always the one dude who has to chime in and say that he needs an f350 for his real man tasks and he's not just hauling groceries, thanks that guy.

[@grepora]

I use the impact drive most of the time, even for drilling wood or masonry. Ease and quickness of changing bits is the main advantage. I use the drill mostly for specialized non-hex shank bits or when I want to control the depth of screws. I have even used the impact driver on plumbing faucets to remove frozen nuts that cannot be removed with hand tools. Other cordless tools I use are the oscillating multitool and circular saw. I have a dedicated corded hammer drill (which I purchased used/cheap). The bags are useful to carry tools and supplies to multiple properties. I use one bag to carry the cordless tools and another bag to carry supplies and accessories. Previously, I put them all in the same bag, but it became unwieldy and more difficult to put the cordless tools into.

[@christophrothert4340]

some additions to your video... don't waste your money on a battery drill, with a hammer drill setting. If you have to drill in concrete or other hard stones, get a proper pneumatic hammer drill. If you're drilling into brick or acerated concrete a normal drill with a bit for stone will do just fine. The hammer function adds more weight, when it isn't neccessary. You can avoid breaking your hand or wrist when you are getting a drill with a kickback stop. Bosch and Milwaukee built a kickbackstop in a lot of drills, e.g.. Makita afaik only in the 40V drill. It's saved my ass or rather wrist a few times. An impact is good for (long) screws with a large diameter. If you are using a long screw with a kinda small diameter, like a 5/16th and 16" or longer screw it's likely that the rotary impact has less to no effect because of the torsion of the screw.