90% of Toilets Are Installed Wrong (Here’s the Right Way)

[@HomeRenoVisionDIY]

Thanks for watching, if you found this helpful please subscribe. New videos every Saturday. Cheers!

[@shanemitchell477]

You forgot a step. Make sure you have a wet filter in the vaccum not the paper dry one. Most of them now only come with the paper one, then you have to order the wet (sponge) one seperate.

[@DefundTheFringes]

The comments section begs to disagree with your thesis. Brutal!

[@quintesse]

This kind of video is extremely useful, I just wish some of them would show how to do this with the modern toilets that are flush against the wall and you have no access from the outside to any of the bolts.

[@rodray4756]

Don't listen to a handy man on how to plumb. That is completely the wrong flange to install. And the reason he used it is because he did not know how to install the correct one.

[@shanemitchell477]

@@rodray4756 I just use braided hose and a valve for that. Makes it easier when installing a new toilet again.

[@DanTaron-l5o]

I've been doing bathroom remodels for 40 years and have never seen the plastic cup trick to plug the toilet flange. Very cool!

[@devitafilms6455]

And have your cup of coffee too

[@dwayne7356]

I haven't even changed 4, but that cup trick was outstanding.

[@peters8758]

Last week I had a recently-emptied cup nearby, so in it went. Thought I was a genius as I filled it full of ugly wax. Glad there’s a few more geniuses.

[@outlet6989]

When setting up my new toilet, I bought two plastic tubes that fit over the screws. They keep the screws vertical when lowering the toilet.

[@oshkoshbegone]

I use a bag with a bunch of paper towel in it, did the plastic cup trick and it was lifechanging. Zero sewer smell and catch everything you drop to!

[@jonathanyates8414]

Jeff, licensed plumber here. Strongly recommend using 1\4 turn valves, also put seat on toilet first then tank then set it, also grab an extra set of mounting bolts and use the extra metal washers and nuts to hold the the bolts firmly and straight up on the flange

[@stanleywheeler404]

I have 2 full size bathrooms the downstairs bathroom has a ceramic tile floor. About a year ago my son in law had passed out and fell hitting the old toilet which loosened it on the ceramic tile floor. I had a plumber check it out to see how to tighten the bolts on the toilet so it's not wobbling. He tightened it up and said that's the sturdiest that toilet will be. It still is alittle wobbly. So what can I do to get the toilet to stop wobbling because it didn't wobble years ago when it was installed. Thank you for your help.

[@jonathanyates8414]

​​@@stanleywheeler404I'd recommend pulling and resetting the toilet in case the wax seal has been compromised from it shifting. As stated to Jeff I recommend bolting the bolts to the flange first using an extra set of metal washers and nuts instead of the cheap plastic retaining washers, setting the toilet on the wax and if there's any wobbling or doesn't sit flat, using a rubber toilet shim in the area needed, securing the toilet properly with the toilet bolts and caulking NOT siliconing the toilet around the base leaving a 2-in opening in the back

[@QuickNicksHandymanServices]

@@jonathanyates8414 if you seen Jeff’s demonstration on “why corded tools are better than batter” bro was using a 2ah battery on a dewalt Xr circular saw requires a minimum of 5ah claiming it didn’t have enough torque and after seeing this video he is no professional 😂 he was just the first person to make how to videos for home owners that end up call us professionals in the long run

[@dolfinwriter5389]

I don't know what it was about my old house, but I had to replace every toilet hold down bolt in both bathrooms. It was like somebody cut them part way through with a hacksaw before installing them. Overtightened maybe? I dunno. When I pulled the toilet in the master bathroom, I found that whoever installed it before our time did the shittiest job, so I had to use one of the repair flanges like in this video to get a good base and then reinstall the toilet correctly. Then once I had it settled on the wax and tile, I tested it for leaks and then sealed all the way around the base with a bead of white silicone caulk.

[@robgreenough1164]

So wrong

[@danieltx7066]

I’m no licensed plumber, but if I’m going to do that much work, I’m opting for a 1/4-turn valve.

[@whatwasisaying]

Love those 1/4s. Never seem to leak like those standard types.

[@shanefrank3281]

agree

[@Robert-g7w5s]

Hahaha you may as well be you had a better idea than he did

[@KennethMixson]

Also the 1/4-turn valves do not seem to seize up in the open position like the old valves would on occasions.

[@rickyspanish9625]

@@whatwasisayingLicensed plumber here, been doing service for 8 years. I’ve had a lot of quarter turns break or leak on me. Absolutely have to use a quality quarter turn especially not a nibco.

[@lincolnlawyer9704]

I always install the tank and seat after installing the base. I never missed the bolts or wrecked a wax gasket in 41 years. I also always take a seat on the toilet using my weight over the centre of the wax to press it down prior to tightening the bolts.❤

[@jamesmskipper]

If the wax is too cold, will it crack?

[@Growmap]

I wonder why he chose to install the tank before installing the base. And also why he poured water in the bowl before completing the installation. Any insights?

[@joeneighbor]

Why not use one of the rubber rings that are wax replacements? None of that messy wax if you accidently set the bowel down wrong and don't have to worry about the wax fitting right. I've used a couple of the rubber ones now. Working two years later. No leaks, etc. Sure maybe they are $12 and a new toilet usual comes with a free wax one, but AFAIK the rubber rings are superior.

[@biffgee6797]

​@@GrowmapI wonder that as well. The tank just adds extra weight you have to lift and the toilet seat can be installed last. The weight of the water isn't enough to help.

[@TheDuckofDoom.]

​@@jamesmskipper No. It is not at all like refined paraffin. It is a soft sticky petroleum byproduct consisting mostly of scalewax or slackwax(crude high-oil waxes from dewaxing of other products), low temp microcrystalline waxes, and petrolatums (like crude vaseline) that comes from the residual of lube oils refining.

[@philsavala276]

I’m sorry but I gotta say, this isn’t how I would do it, & I’m a licensed plumber with over 20 yrs of experience. You’re creating the same & even more problems for the next guy. I can tell everything was purchased from Home Desperate or similar type hardware store rather than a plumbing supply house. I never install those cheap plastic stop valves. Whether installing straight or angle stop valves, use the 1/4 turn brass (ball style). Even the 1/4 turn valves from HD are plastic & rubber inside, including the stem. Never use channel-locks with teeth on the new valve. If replacing a bunch of these , you can make a cheap tool for a couple of bucks. Buy a 1/2”x8”+/- nipple (pipe), 1/2” coupling , & a 1/2” 45°. Hand tighten the coupling onto the nipple, & do the same with the 45° elbow on the other end (most of the time you won’t need the 45°). Just thread the “tool” onto the angle-stop valve & hold the pipe/tool with one hand, & use Crescent wrench 🔧 to remove/tighten the back nut. Every once in a while you’ll run into something too close to the top of the valve (like the toilet tank of a “Lowboy” toilet) in that case, use the 45° elbow. Just remove it from the pipe first, then thread it onto the valve. Face the elbow away from obstruction then thread the pipe into the elbow. Now you can remove the nut. I cut the BRASS (not copper) ferrule ring so I know it’s not going to leak. Plus there’s a nice ‘n shiny new nut to match the new (exposed) valve. Once the old nut & ferrule are removed, you can install a quality escutcheon plate covering the hole in the floor. I take those cool plastic “Money” washers, & throw them in the trash. They’re not an extra pair of hands. More like an extra pair of fingertips w/long fake nails. Those will ensure the bolts WILL spin down the road when you need to remove the nuts. Those threads are brand new now, but after a short time those threads will have oxidation & build up that will certainly grab onto the nut when removing. Also when setting the toilet over the flange, if you even slightly bump or touch the bolt with the bottom of the bowl, those closet bolts will either push straight down, or begin to lay sideways. Now you have to put the toilet back out of the way & fix the bolts again. To avoid this, use hardware that comes with 4 washers & nuts & secure the bolts to the flange. Then the next guy won’t curse you when removing the toilet. If you’re worried about the nut hitting the bottom of the toilet, don’t worry, the top of the nut is rounded & in-line with the bolt going thru the hole in the toilet. If not for the washer, the nut would pass right thru the hole (depending on toilet). Don’t worry about it. I do it every time & haven’t had a problem even once. If the bolts spin, before I try anything else, I just lift on that side of the bowl making that spinning bolt grab onto the bottom of the flange & the washer is seated on the toilet. Now (keeping upward pressure on the toilet), remove the nut with the other hand. I ALWAYS caulk the base of the toilet to the floor. That’s what’s securing the toilet to the floor. Those closet bolts are not going to keep that toilet from rocking or shifting. If you overtighten those just a little, it will crack the porcelain. Even a leveled floor can have a wobble because those toilets are handmade,from two halves that are then Baked together. They are never 100% perfect. Use toilet shims, & cut the excess flush with the base of the toilet, then caulk the base of the toilet. If done right, it won’t leak. & if the toilet is secured to the floor, without a wobble, it won’t even leak down the road, unless there’s a major earthquake or something. Oh & Never never never use grout to level and seal the toilet! If I could’ve found the guys who did that to the handful of toilets that I’ve had to remove, I would’ve hunted them down. Lol. Rather than using a simple razor to remove the caulking & toilet, now you’re stuck with having to carefully chisel away the toilet from the tile floor. & good luck trying not to ruin that tile floor. As a plumber, I’m not about to re-tile your floor. So I let my customer know, because of the grout, if the tile cracks or breaks, that’s on them. If they don’t agree to that, they can call this guy up in Canada to come remove that grout, now that it’s fused the toilet to the tile floor. I’m sure he wouldn’t mind, because he installed this toilet just like every other handyman. Jack of all trades… I’m not even going to go into the elongated toilet seat. 🤦🏻‍♂️

[@joeblue354]

Thank you. You just saved me a lot of time commenting on everything he did wrong. He's quite full of himself

[@donreding314]

It’s Home Dumpster or blows

[@morgansword]

I just watched his video, thinking it must be nice to just toss something in the trash because its forty years old. Its porcelain and when taken outside and proper cleaner used, will shine like new. If its all iron stains that don't come out, yes I can see tossing them so the world doesn't see the hard water problems. Of course if the same water is still going into a toilet, its going to have those same stains in a short time. Toilets are crazy high priced yet still do the same job and unless people who are going to look at your toilet are so disturbed your toilet is stained just like their own toilets are... ya, get over it is my ways of thinking at seventy five and not a lot of money in the bank. I would rather eat well and keep the bathroom as clean as possible. Stains are just stains and most of all water unless furnished by some treatment plant will stain the system. I do have a question tho, I live in alaska and my system is a long long run to the tank. I know you don't need fifty gallons of water to flush, a couple gallons will usually keep things going if your not flushing wads of paper down. I just don't like a system trying to flush the system on a half gallon of water. I have a small bathroom in my cabin. Not a house but cabin so space is important. I still have a three gallon tank and it works very well. Occasionally I do a second flush to insure things are going well. I never had problems till grandkids show up and flushed toys and towels down.... they were ten dang years old and mommy said... they are just kids! I am a crippled up old man of seventy five years and they go home for me to fix by myself... my daughter was raised better than this. Say your sorry to grandpa is not cutting it. I had to have a young fellow come over to help me fix this situation and then when she came back to visit.. I just locked the door to the bathroom. I told those brats to use the outhouse... toys and your towels are not a worry out there. She went to collage on my backbone killing work yet she sees nothing wrong with undisciplined kids. Sorry about the rant. How much water is really needed to properly flush a toilet as my run is around seventy feet to the tank?

[@foadrightnow5725]

Please make a video for the home diy-er! Your method sounds superior, but a little hard to visualize for those who aren't familiar with hardware and terminology. Cheers!

[@grasshoppercrews1296]

Ile say he is as full of it as the clogged main line with roots in it ,,if you know you know 😊

[@theoriginalracer72]

I learned the hard way about installing new water valves. I did just like this guy and reused the copper ring. About 3 weeks later came home to a wet bathroom floor. The old copper ring that I had tightened the absolute piss out of, had split. Bought a $10 compression ring removal tool to fix. I will never reuse the compression ring again.

[@blythkd9017]

When you reuse that compression ferrule, never tighten the absolute piss out of it. When reusing, all you should do is snug the nut then check for a leak. If you have a seep, simply snug it up until it stops leaking. Over-tightening is a recipe for disaster, as you found out.

[@theoriginalracer72]

@@blythkd9017 It takes me 10 seconds to remove the old ferrule. If one is going to reuse old crap, why even replace the valve? The tool to remove the old ferrule was $6 at Harbor Freight and works like a charm.

[@johnmack4470]

I always replace the valve with a quarter turn. ALWAYS replace the ferrule or the next person will probably have to replace the copper pipe. ALWAYS use a top tier shut off valve that has metal guts NOT plastic or the valve will seize up. BrassCraft with part numbers that start with a “K” are really good. Dahl valves are the best and only cost a few bucks more. This guy should include himself as an incorrect install! Sorry yo say but true.

[@blythkd9017]

@@theoriginalracer72 It's not old crap if you treat it right. You just have to remember, a used ferrule has already been crimpled onto the tube so all you have to do is snug it when you reuse it. You just have to know how to treat compression ferrules.

[@LowellSwartzentruber]

I'm a master plumber for 45 years, enjoyed your video. lots of good points. Some things to do different but were already mentioned by others. Main thing, your twist flange was not at 9 and 3 which makes the outside plastic bolt head holder weak. and i have seen many break with tightening the nuts too much. Also don't tighten the flange hold down screws so much if there is a gap between the flanges. puts undue stress on the new flange and unnecessary. snug is fine because the closet bolts are pulling up. we also don't like the wax with the plastic piece. they leak quicker if it's not quite lined up. Thanks for being a part of the work force! It's getting smaller. Carry on!

[@johnturner2175]

And the wax gets attached to the toilet not the flange.

[@LittleMopeHead]

@@johnturner2175 Nice! I bet that makes it easier to install too.

[@JnitraM078]

I agree. Also, the plastic cone also acts as a bottle neck. Toilets plug much more frequently with those. If the bolts are in the correct position, and the wax is pressed to the bottom of the toilet, the holes will line right up also lining the wax ring up with the flange.

[@MoltenMetalCasting]

​@@JnitraM078 I cut out part of the plastic so it is less likely to snag on a toilet auger. For residential it isn't as important because most people use plungers to unclog toilets.

[@shedbloodofjesuschrist5385]

I use a Torque Wrench at 100lbs to make sure that toilet never moves! Just kidding!

[@65ramblerman]

Interesting tip I have...... I have an extremely heavy and awkward one piece toilet that I could not get lined up with the flange bolts. I ended up resting the toilet on some 4x4's then took 2 straws and went down through the toilet base onto the flange bolts, then I just lifted the toilet just enough for my wife to pull out the 4x4"s. At that point I could just set it down and the straws kept the bolts from tipping at the last second and missing the toilet holes. Also it is a skirted base so the toilet base flange holes are hidden adding difficulty to lining them up, but this would work for a regular toilet too.

[@gamingwithfrodo]

Great tip.

[@motnitsua29]

I installed a one piece american standard from Home Depot. My only complaint was that it was difficult to get at the hold down nuts and they seemed to be intended to be tightened only hand tight. Also the caps over the holes were poorly made and keep falling out. i would not recommend a closed bottom toilet at all. Much more secure with the type Jeff installed.

[@gregorylaplante799]

NEVER BUY A ONE PIECE TOILET! SOB TO SET!

[@65ramblerman]

​@@motnitsua29 I got the Woodbridge form Home Depot right before the prices skyrocketed on them. I think I paid under $200 for it. So no plugs on the sides, you have to be a contortionist to get to the flange bolts.

[@65ramblerman]

@@gregorylaplante799 BUT BUT BUT the guy in the demo video for the toilet did it with one hand. I was on my last attempt before I ordered a toilet jack. Yes they are VERY heavy and awkward to hold on to, then add the fact you can't even see if its lining up correctly. I'm a small guy so I always set the bowl first, then put on the tank. It might be awkward bolting the tank on that way but way easier than installing a skirted one piece toilet.

[@andreys4277]

Ok. Us an experienced plumber I want make some corrections to your toilet installation. First it always good to apply wd 40 to the old rusty bolts. Second, I always secure new bolts to the flange with metal washers and bolts before I put in toilet. Secured bolts helps you put toilet exacly above flange and they not moving when you trying to locate toilet exacly above flange.

[@daddy1571]

"Metal" washers and bolts?" Your're a plumber?

[@whisperweed]

@@daddy1571 Are you one? Brass IS metal.

[@thomasjensen5237]

Used the crappiest plastic stem multi turn anglestops. Get with the times quarter turn anglestops with metal stems.

[@patrickcowan8701]

That's all I've been using for twenty years, and copper stub outs, pex. with compression fittings. Quality doesn't cost too much in the long run.

[@frikkied2638]

lol you feel pretty strong about this 😂

[@dolfinwriter5389]

@@frikkied2638 You will too if you ever need to shut off the water in a hurry.

[@timgordon2039]

Yes, and no compressions! Braze or SharkBite Max, please.

[@bradnail99]

Here in SoCal I have had 1/4-turn valves with brass stems fail in ten years due to de-zincification. They become porous copper and snap off when turned. The 1/4-turn valves with plastic stems actually last longer with our aggressive water.

[@matthewk6731]

Retired plumber here. I suggest: 1. If you only have a flange with the long adjustable slot, aline the slots so the bolts go to the end of the run, which is a little more solid. 2. Get a flange that has side slots and use those slots for the bolts instead of the long adjustable slots, whether it is a cast iron flange or plastic. Side slots are the small slots perpendicular to the flange. The bolt slides in from the outside. You have to be really careful about getting the slots in the correct position being parallel with the back wall, especially if you are gluing it in. No room for error. The cast iron adjustable slots will break because they're all made in China now. The plastic slots will start to bend and the toilet will loosen off the floor. Sometimes they also break. I've never had a side slot break. 3. Save your back. Just install the bowl without the tank. Gently set it on the ring, install the tank, then push the bowl all the way down and align the tank with the wall. 4. Always install a brace from the tank to the wall because someone is eventually going to lean back on the tank and cause a tank to bowl leak or even break it off. There are commercially available braces that clamp onto the tank, or a piece of wood, etc. 5. Do not use a wax ring with the plastic horn unless you have to. If the toilet plugs up, and someone uses a toilet auger, the head at the end will snag the horn and rip it out and ruin the seal. Wax rings have been used for over 100 years and work just fine without the horn. 6. The flange was designed to sit on top of the floor, which is why they have screw holes to mount to the floor. 7. Use a washer and thin nut on top of the flange to hold the bolts upright and solid. This is much much easier to set the bowl without the bolts flopping around. Plus, it is much easier if the toilet is pulled off and reset for some reason. Dry fit the bowl to make sure the bottom of the bowl will clear the nuts. The bottom recess on new bowls is less than the old bowls. 8. The seat in the video looks like it overhangs the front too much. 9. The quarter turn shutoffs seem to be the way to go now. The old style washers get petrified and disintegrate into dust when turned off. I prefer soldering the valves on instead of compression, but most guys use compression because it is easier. I used to tin the pipe with solder because it looks better than the exposed copper pipe. 10. Make sure the fill valve nut is tight from the factory. 11. Make sure the water level is set to the correct height. No closer than 1/2 inch from the top of the overflow pipe. 12. If the tank to bowl bolts are steel, get brass bolts. You'll thank me later. 13. If the tank bolt washers are white, get better washers because those white washers will turn to mush. 14. Do not use the metal washers inside the tank. Put the rubber washer onto the bolt, stick it through the tank. Then a metal washer and nut to seal the tank. Set the tank onto the bowl and use another metal washer and nut to fasten the tank to the bowl. Just using one set under the bowl means you are trying to seal the tank holes And the tank to bowl gasket. Most of the time that works, but my way is better. Note: Some tank to bowl systems don't have the room for the extra nut and washer. 15. Grouting the bowl to an uneven floor works well. The grout can still be chipped away if the toilet is pulled and reset. 16. The braided supply tubes are pretty good. The best way is the old style 3/8" chromed copper supply using a plastic ferrel instead of a brass ferrel. Very few people do that these days. . Did I miss anything?

[@nowornever_t2d]

Dang, I'll need to take a lunch break before I finish all 16 suggestions. But I like them!

[@acreguy3156]

Well said, Mathew. Thanks for that. The only thing I question is, applying silicon sealant to the base of the bowl. You can't tell if you have a leak as the subfloor turns into cookie dough over time. Also, I would never try to compensate for an uneven floor with grout or wedges etc... I always dry fit the bowl and make sure there's no rocking. If there is, I fix the floor. A belt sander can level off a subfloor pretty quick. Thanks again for sharing!

[@wowiezowie4235]

All the i's dotted and t's crossed. Perfect!

[@tripjet999]

YES, NEVER USE GROUT! And don't bother with caulk, so you will know if there is ever a leak.

[@rayburnyarborough4695]

@@acreguy3156I’ve used pennies to stabilize the bowl on uneven tile floors. You are exactly right about grouting or caulking the bowl to the floor.

[@Dex99SS]

Guys calling out frivolous BS as bad practice, saying he's rarely ever seen a toilet installed correctly.... Then he re-uses a 40 year old compression collar on a new valve. Also uses the cheapest, worst / lowest quality gate valve possible... instead of using a quarter turn ball valve. As many others have also called out. But what's most important is leveling the toilet, sealing it at the closet flange properly (use the right wax ring or equivalent for your situation), ensuring the flange is adequate (he did use a repair / replacement flange, so that's good), and then once it's all done... NOT caulking all the way around the toilet, making sure that you leave the back open... so you can be aware of any issues, leaks, etc. Rather than leaving them stagnate under the toilet, eventually finding the ceiling below. Some other misc details were covered in the video, and some comments have mentioned some handy tips as well... but ultimately, this is all you need to focus on. The rest is fluff.... This guy doesn't seem too bad, but he does for sure have a case of the ever contagious "I'm better than all the other" sickness. Something I learned from the first guy I worked consistently with, was NOT to bash everyone else. DON'T go on an on about how the last guy did everything wrong, about how all the other guys do everything wrong, about how every toilet you see or house you're in is built wrong, etc. At best, all it does is make you look like a pompas anus, and everyone will hate you. At worst, folks realize that YOU'RE the issue, and everyone else is probably right. Everyone in the industry will also likely come to hate you as well, due to your incessant talking down of them all, as YOU are clearly the only one who can do ANYTHING correctly, and they hear it.... but also the home owners... as MANY of them will negatively react, maybe not outwardly but inwardly, to your constant belittling and downtalking of quite literally EVERY SINGLE OTHER PERSON WORKING ON ANYTHING. Really comes off as a YOU problem, at least by the time the persons known you for a week or so, and has heard NOTHING BUT you saying how everyone else is "amature hour" when compared to you. Everyone who takes pride in their work is going to see their work as being quite good, otherwise they wouldn't have been proud of it at any point. But you need to remain open to reality, site to site differences, reasoning behind why someone may have done something in the past (that you're now discovering, and of which maybe you wouldn't normally do yourself), etc. ALSO... Using grout under the toilet as a shim essentially though.... that's dumb, don't do that. . . Grout, sanded or unsanded, is NOT structural... in ANY way at all... it will crumble, and if siliconed from the outside, it will merely flake inward and not be there for long, supporting anything. Use actual shims if it needs shimmed... plastic ones in this environment... then cut them flush, and caulk over them, you'll never even know they were there... Oh, and don't caulk the backside, that's what foolish amature hour schmucks do! lol...

[@caveygaming]

You lost me at "gate" valve. lol

[@mrpipes-fh6rl]

@@caveygaming Thank you. Everyone thinks if the handle turns it's a gate valve. I actually prefer the style valve he used but instead with a brass stem. You can rebuild it in 1 minute.

[@marksutherland8091]

Quarter turn valves are the best period. Hands down multi-turn gate valves are crap don't use them especially ones with plastic stems. As for everyone else doing crap work, it's an industry standard for them to do crap work. If they didn't do crap work I wouldn't have a job redoing all their work Period. The only reason this guy was in that bathroom redoing everything is because it was crap work. Good work lasts forever until the homeowner no longer likes the design aesthetic which can get dated if you doing the "cool new thing".

[@markmurto]

There's generally three types of valves in use in plumbing. One is a gate valve.

[@marksutherland8091]

And gate valves are a mistake. Dont use them unless you hate that person for some reason. You dont still use a horse buggy unlesd its some sort of religious thing. Lol

[@garyworley5806]

I put a strip of tape on the floor with lines marking where the bolts are so it's easier to identify when the holes are lined up with the bolts. Makes it easier with these old eyes.

[@powdrskir]

I started doing that as well.

[@militarybrat9734]

I have used plastic straws on the bolts to great success.

[@thatzwhat]

Before installing the wax ring, I set the toilet in place and put tape on the floor to mark the position of the base as well as the location of the bolts. You can only set the toilet once on the wax ring, so I try to reduce the possibility for bad alignment.

[@fuzzywzhe]

@@thatzwhat I'm totally out of my element, why use wax instead of a soft rubber or silicone seal? Wax, to me, seems too flimsy and deformable. My father, 40 years ago, replaced a toilet as I watched as a little kid using wax. It seems to me to be antiquated. I believe he replaced it because the seal was leaking. As I recall, I believe it was bees wax as well, that's organic, seems like it would be subject to attack from micro-organisms.

[@thatzwhat]

@@fuzzywzhe There are several non-wax toilet rings for sale these days. You don't have to use one made of wax. I installed one a few years ago just to see how well it worked. So far, no problems. I have never heard of a toilet ring made from real beeswax; it seems like it would be prohibitively expensive.

[@Bunnyymann]

As a plumber.........I always install the bowl 1st and bolt down. Then install the tank. Less weight. Easier to work around. Then install the tank. Of course there are exceptions to the rule.......as there is with everything in life.

[@dv4251]

Yes, retired plumber here over 40 years and thousands of toilets over the time. I like Jeff's channel, very informative in all types of construction. Some channels you cringe at the advice given but Jeff does quite well. Not a fan of wax seals at all. Wax is a one and done application and we've had lots of problems where too thick a wax gasket is used and closes off the opening. Much prefer the sponge gaskets that can be used over and over, will never squeeze and narrow the opening leading to blockages and poor flushes. If you do new construction where you rough in after framing, the flange is on the sub floor, so often is well below the finished floor where they add plywood flooring and then tile for example. Still very easy with longer toilet bolts and double up your sponge gaskets. Standard rule is if the flange is flush with the finished flooring, use a 3/4 sponge gasket. If the flange is above use a 1/2 sponge gasket. Always interesting to see the many "repair" flanges on the market as well and the different ways they come up with to seal when you add a new flange. Plastic becomes brittle over time so often breaks and warps at the toilets bolts. Jeff refers to those kantleak wax seals which I do like under certain conditions to prevent issues as it centers nicely in the flange with the added plastic flange with the wax. Thank you for the informative tips and suggestions on your channel Jeff, much appreciated. 🙂

[@Quince828]

@@dv4251when I went to change the builder grade toilet in my new home instead of a wax seal I was greeted with a styrofoam monstrosity. Was a royal pain to chip away as it was glued in place. For new I used a wax seal. Also there was a wood chip that was wedged in to keep the toilet from rocking! And yes that was done by a professional plumber!

[@dv4251]

@@Quince828 Yes they've come out with a few different ideas over the years to seal the bowl to the flange.Not seen styrofoam used here, at least in Canada. Sadly rocking toilets are an issue, with floors being uneven, moreso with tiled floors. That is brutal that someone uses a wood shim for it. We always had scraps of linoleum to shim toilets to stop the rocking that the homeowner would never see. Idealy you let your weight press on the bowl to bottom out the front so you only need shims at the back end. Depends how bad the floors are of course. At the end of the day as long as it seals and flushes properly, all good. 👍

[@Quince828]

@@dv4251 actually this is in Ottawa Canada and the floor was ceramic tile and the shim was in the front right corner.

[@samelioto476]

More like more billable time.

[@daviddrapeau9255]

Plus a hundred other things I could mention from the handyman trick used to hold the valve while you were tightening the compression nut. My biggest issue with the job is that the repair flange restricts the drain so much that it would cause more problems than it would ever solve

[@georgeburns8447]

The guy in the video is actually wrong. The flange is supposed to sit on top of the finished floor, not flush with it as he did. What happens in new home construction is the plumber will come in and install the flange on top of the subfloor (before the finished floor installers have come in), which is wrong but super common. Ideally, the toilet wouldn't be plumbed until the finished floor is in (so that the flange can sit on top of it), but that rarely happens. What the guy in the video did is essentially what I just described that new home constructors do (setting the flange on top of the subfloor). Why is that a problem? Because you wind up with too much of a gap between the top of the flange and the underside of the toilet that sits on the perimeter of the drain (i.e. the top of the flange). You want to have minimal space between the two so that when you install the wax ring, you get a good waterproof squeeze of the wax between the two surfaces. I've seen a few other videos by this guy on other subjects like fence construction and installation and he's usually wrong. In fact, he's pretty much a nimrod.

[@guitarShawn]

Yes, not up to IPC, UPC code. Flange has to sit on top of finished floor.

[@peterbedford2610]

Yes. That is how I learned it

[@stuartclark777]

That's how I've done it too. Flange on top of finished floor. If you think about it. The horn of the toilet is slightly below when done this way. The toilet water discharge is below the top of the flange. If you do the flange on the subfloor below the discharge of the toilet You're relying on the wax to seal the water 100%, Not good.

[@pumpupthevolume4775]

That's why he needed the big wax ring.

[@weedhopp]

Absolutely on top of finished floor !

[@jasonrodgers9063]

The plastic "kegger party cup" is a classic "work around" to keep the sweet aroma contained! I've done a fair number of these as a self-employed remodeler (35 years). Retired now, glad to be just an observer! Great video!

[@fitybux4664]

Keeping the smell of unspeakable horrors down into your sewer system.

[@michaelgood1576]

Use an internal pipe cutter that attaches to your drill to cut the old flange out. ($15 tool you will be so glad you bought) Old plastic flanges get weak and putting an adapter narrows the poop line maybe causing a clogged toilet. New flange above the tile, 1/4 turn valve please, tank last to save your back. There are rubber seals that actually work better than wax. I had 140 rentals, ask me how I know. Never using wax again. Tank bolt washers leak over time. Home owners take note. Some plumbers like call backs, I'm busy and do it right the first time. Bolt, metal washer, rubber washer, through the tank, rubber washer, metal washer, thin nut, tank to toilet seal, bolts though the toilet, metal washer, nut.

[@frankrosemeck9898]

I like how you switched out the wrong/elongated seat you installed with the correct/round seat for the parting shot...

[@1pcmedic]

If you have the room always buy an elongated toilet...........

[@bzflote]

OMG me too lol

[@TheStobyReport]

@@1pcmedic If you have room and a Johnson.

[@lagondaveal7548]

That was driving me nuts. 😂

[@hutchr6142]

As an insurance adjuster writing coverage for failed plumbing lines and angle stops, I replaced all our angle stops in our 30-year-old home. People are amazed at how fast water damage occurs in a house in a short amount of time. This can happen anytime, in the middle of the night, or when you are away for vacation. $28,000 Happens quick. >>Your insurance policy encourages the homeowner to turn their water main off if they are away from the home for several days or more. >>Many homeowners do not know where the water main valve is located. I always enjoy your videos; they are spot on. I live in Ocala and would love to touch base.

[@jackspencer8290]

I've installed a couple of toilets. The instructions for the wax seal do indeed say to place the seal on the floor, and then place the toilet on the seal, just like you have done here. Fine. But when doing it this way, it is VERY easy to miss your aim and mash up the wax seal into an unusable mess. Then, it's a trip to the hardware store again. The trick that I use is to stick the wax onto the bottom of the toilet, and then place the toilet down. It works every time, and seals it perfectly.

[@jeffj2730]

Use the bolts as a guide works every time

[@HomeRenoVisionDIY]

that is one of the reasons I like a 2 piece toilet. much easier to lower into position. Cheers!

[@raiderprty]

I replaced a toilet last weekend, and the directions said to place the wax ring on the toilet first. I remember that because I was surprised it wasn't the other way around.

Put it this way, if you’re strong, competent and have good eyesight then I always place the wax ring on the floor flange first….even with one piece toilets. If you’re a beginner and not that strong, then go ahead and place it on the bottom of the toilet and hope that it stays in place.

[@fahqahsowl6498]

put straws on the closet bolts

[@JohnSmith-ti2kp]

The remove the water from the toilet without a wet/dry vac use a sponge or rag to remove the water from the tank. Flush the toilet to remove most water from the bowl, then use a toilet cleaning brush to push the water to the back of the toilet, this forces most of the water out of the bowl, put an old rag in the bowl and leave it there to absorb the remaining water. Pick up bowl and separate from floor, have help slide plastic sheet or trash bag underneath bowl and tape to bowl. Take outside with no drips.

[@daijoubu4529]

I taped the bowl shut and used the shopvac to blow it completely out😂

[@ronbeck4164]

I turn off the water supply and flush the tank and bowl out. Then I stuff a roll of toilet paper in the hole to sop up what is left in the bottom of the bowl. Tilt the bowl forward to soak up the last bit.

[@jayadrian4239]

Every Handy Man tells me the previous Handy Man did not know what he was doing

[@guypainter]

Every handy man (and motor mechanic) in the UK must recite the "Tut tut tut, you've had some cowboys in here" mantra before presenting the extortionate quote. The plumber who came to fix my leaking bathroom wash basin asked me "What clown installed this then?" I said "You did".

[@Rocky1765]

Same here. EVERY SINGLE TIME!

[@timothynewport224]

lol😂lol lol lol you are correct

[@TysonFromNY]

You dont know what you're talking about - Handy Man.

[@jayescalade7657]

So True.

[@raynaortiz3260]

Jeff, because of you I have been able to do so many things around my house including changing out one of my toilets. Thank you for this channel and for your confidence building! We can do so much for ourselves!

[@HomeRenoVisionDIY]

I am so proud of you Rayna! You are the picture of determination and an inspiration to many people who are part of our DIY community. Cheers to you and thank you for your continued support of our channel.

[@rickkrieger4455]

What was the incorrect installation? The toilet flange?

[@joet3935]

@@rickkrieger4455 Yes, the flange was too low and should have had an extension, and the wax had failed because they didn't use the one with plastic in it.

[@mlt6322]

​@@HomeRenoVisionDIY I'm in the process of repairing my bathroom, my house is 75 yrs old and before I got it my parents had a bathroom remodel mid 70's. The company who did it went bankrupt due to lawsuits. They put 1/4" plywood on the floor and laid linoleum flooring and bolted the toilet down and broke off the cast iron flanges because of the new floor height. The floor is rotten from almost 50 years of a loose toilet and rotted walls because the grout around the shower was never sealed. The shower walls are also damaged because my rocket scientist brother who built electronic systems thought he knew how to solder copper pipes and replaced the shower controls with a temp control unit after my father passed and about 6 months after I inherited the house the pipes exploded out of the controls and flooded my bathroom and kitchen.

[@Nortonsnorton]

@@mlt6322 A lot of people have no idea how to solder, it’s quite easy. I watched my brother-in-law many years ago melt the solder from above and drop it onto the wires he was soldering… OMG that is not how it’s done! Thanks to KZbin many of these jobs are shown and you can learn how to avoid most mistakes.

[@dustinbowen6411]

I have a round toilet at home, but I bought an oval shaped lid because it was on sale. Looks like my toilet has an overbite. But my favorite part is that I can kick it open with my foot and never have to bend over! It is awesome!

[@diegudr]

You have a kung fu toilet. "Everybody was Kung Fu pooping" LOL.

[@BOHICA_]

More important is a slow close lid. When you are a guy and want to drop the lid without having to bring it down slowly for those midnight pee sessions.

[@hache1072]

Hilarious!

[@RMartin631]

Your test flush with the reducer installed did exactly what I thought would happen. It reduces the strength of a flush.

[@seamuslily]

Did I notice you installed a wrong toilet seat at first. what caught my eye was the front overhang but the final shot was a correct one.

[@tammiefryman6572]

I noticed that as well.. 😂

[@jeffreyjaster]

Whew! Finally, someone addressed the 700 pound gorilla in the room🙈🙉🙊 Elongated seat, on round bowl. WHO buys round bowls, in 2024???

[@littlefarmerisaac7675]

The irony of this video kills me. “90% of toilets are installed wrong” and he goes and installs it wrong.

[@frzy1988]

oval seat with a round toilet bowl. interesting

[@SNMSRACING]

@@jeffreyjaster people who aren't overweight.

[@garym5146]

Always remember to use a crescent wrench when changing your service valves. Channel locks can oval and scratch compression nuts

[@kellyvcraig]

Though Knipex makes a Channelock type of "Cresent" (no teeth and it grips like a badass).

[@jayadinash9102]

Never use pliers where you can use a wrench. And I like to use the correct size wrench instead of an adjustable when possible.

[@Kevin-i6t5i]

​@@jayadinash9102If you can use a wrench, you can use a ball... oh wait wrong video😮

[@cameronhamer9432]

@@jayadinash9102I always use the correct wrench , crescent wrenches are a poor tool , I own many but seldom use them .🇨🇦👍

[@GeoRedtick]

Yeah I couldn’t believe it when he installed the new valve with channel locks. Taking the old one off, what ever, but installing the new one 😮

[@andrewc6385]

Actually jeff, the proper height of the flange is the bottom of the flange sits on top of the finished floor. Not the top of the flange flush with the finished floor

[@jerrywilson1303]

I looked down a ways in the comments, but didn't see anyone else suggesting the use of nitrile gloves. I was squirming a bit as I watched this excellent procedure.

[@angelajohnson-filer6202]

Me too.

[@torstenmeyer2905]

Mmm and then eat a few snacks while taking a break.

[@f.6645]

I did though the same , it's a big danger to put the nude hands in all these crap .

[@f.6645]

And ten hurry going to the hospital that night .........very fun....

[@stephenthompson439]

​@torstenmeyer2905 Try some Watermelon 🍉

[@SharpestBulbs]

I hate to be one of those keyboard warriors but pro tip, you should only replace those old valves with 90 degree valves. Same procedure/fittings. Those old style valves are garbagio.

[@SallowDawn]

Agreed

[@richdrumlang]

Yup

[@donbaker6596]

I am Amazed at your presentation skills. The marker on the toilet and the plexiglass see through when demonstrating the Rim Joist spray foam segment so intuitive. Bravo!

[@williamhoodtn]

Many plumbers would say to never ever put caulk or sealant around the base of the toilet between the floor and the china base. Why? Because IF you have a leak from the flange, you want to be able to see the water coming out so you can fix this quickly before water damage to the wood subfloor happens. Some would argue that you partially caulk around the base (the part you can see) and not the back of the toilet flange. Supposedly, this allows you to have more of a finished look but still allow any water leaks from seal to escape and be detected. Others have also noted that before setting the new toilet down to caulk around the flange to the subfloor to seal it so any leaks there won't make their way (or be more difficult) to the wood subfloor and what is underneath that.

[@KolbWorkshop]

the caulk question was what i wanted answered. it makes sense to me to caulk around the base, or even mostly like you suggested. Even to keep water from washing the floor or shower splashing from wicking under the toilet.

[@coolasice2187]

Correct. The base should have been caulked or sealed with plumber's putty.

[@XY_Dude]

Interesting point. I like the clean look and barrier for floor washing. I leave the rear of the toilet base uncalked for water leak exit.

[@charleshettrick2408]

I was a toilet engineer for many years: Thousands of customer complaint calls about installs and our extensive internal testing - 1.) Always flange flush to above flush to floor, never subflush, 2.) Wax rings only. Hybrid, plastic, rubber, miracle seals, etc age, crack, fail, leak. Properly installed wax rings do not leak, 3.) Never caulk a bowl to the floor. Always allow water to run out from under the bowl. 12 years after install, my daughter dropped a bottle on the bowl. No obvious damage. Long story short, the shock cracked the trapway. Water very slowly leaked. The only way we knew it was leaking was water on the floor. MUCH better than water damaged foyer ceiling below. The ceiling would be $$$$$.

[@coolasice2187]

@@charleshettrick2408 No. If the crapper isn't sealed, then all of the possible movement has to be controlled by the 2 bolts. That puts more strain on the flange, which could break, and the wax seal could break its seal. So now you have a broken flange and seal, which can leak on the floor. Congratulations.

[@catsmeow5566]

I'm on a well system that uses a pump so when my power goes out we don't have running water. I have to use the bucket technique to flush the toilets. If I know there is a storm coming and we might lose power I fill up several 5 gallon buckets, put lids on them, and wait. Then I can fill smaller buckets for flushing. We also keep some buckets on hand to be able to rinse our hands and to make sure the cats and dogs have drinking water (will used filter pitchers for that as well). I'm a fan of using wingnuts for tank to bowl bolts. Makes them much easier to remove. For the toilet seats I get metal bolts with rubber bungs that scrunch up when the bolt is tightened so there are no nuts to come loose and the seat doesn't move around. I have a dirt crawlspace under my toilets. If a little toilet water goes under its not a big deal. But if it was going into a ceiling it would be a problem. We tenants that broke the lid to our septic tank & a bunch of dirt got in, the field lines got ruined, & the toilets backed up, ruptured wax seals, subfloor in one of the bathrooms was destroyed, toilet fell through the floor (while my brother was sitting on it), messed up the top layer of flooring in the adjacent bathroom and soaked the carpet under the toilet (yeah, whoever did the bathroom before we bought it installed carpet in the bathroom and installed the toilet over carpet. That was super nasty. Top layer of plywood under the toilet turned to mud. Fortunately there was a plastic sheet between layers and it saved the subfloor. I had to chisel out the damaged spot and replace it and then use leveling mix to get it smoother. I despise wax rings. Since we were doing multiple bathroom renovations and I have problems with my wrists, hands, and arms, I invested in a toilet lift jack. It came with alignment sticks for bolts. I swapped out the wheels that came with it for some locking ones. Works great, but you don't want to leave the toilet up on it for too long. Best to set it down somewhere if you don't want to break it. I'm going to have to use the disposable cup in the drain trick (if it will fit) on the next bathroom renovation so we don't have wax fall down the drain like last time. I've heard that the flange should actually be just a little bit above the finished floor. It should sit on top of it. Shouldn't be sticking up too high though. I like teh music almost 7 minutes in. LOL. I love those split pipe flanges. got a bunch of them for my house. Still not a fan of wax rings. So messy. The silicone ones are so much better. Those white washers would have saved my best friend sooo much trouble when he was installing a toilet in his house. He went through like 4 wax rings trying to get that toilet to set right (that was before we got the toilet jack). Straws or tubes that fit snugly on the bolts can help you line up the toilet when lowering it. Sometimes sitting on the toilet after setting it will help compress the wax. If you ever don't feel like cutting or snapping the bolts off, they sell extra tall johnny caps. LOL.

[@sewerrat7612]

Have to disagree Toilet water leaking into crawl can easily lead to mold and subfloor rotting.

[@GlynWilliams1950]

I have a suggestion for your pump fed toilet. Setup a water tank above the height of the toilet, and use a water valve in the tank, to cut off the water when the tank is full. The current pump will store water in the tank while its go power, but if power is lost, the water in the tank has enough pressure to flush the toilet.

[@catsmeow5566]

@@GlynWilliams1950 I would still need to be able to refill the water holding tank and it would get in the way of where I want to put a cabinet. Interesting suggestion though.

[@GlynWilliams1950]

@catsmeow5566 @catsmeow5566 yes, difficult for a house to have an extra tank at a height to give pressure, but the current water pressure could fill it, like the cistern, so it's available in a blackout.

[@clearcreek2637]

Found this video very informative! Just an everyday diy homeowner here, with 2 toilets that will need to be reseated when flooring is done. I didn't know about keeping the flange level with the floor. I'm sure many other diyer's, like me, have thought it was enough that the wax ring would compress when the toilet was seated. Like others, I have a different preference for valves. However, this video was about toilet install, not valves:) Different valves for different folks..lol

[@kevinvt4174]

I need to comment again, If you use the 2 nuts & washers you have left over and lock down the toilet bolts to the flange instead of those cheap plastic lock washers your bolts will stay where you want them plus when you go to change the toilet at a later date your bolts won't spin also I calk around the flange where it meets the flooring and fill all the voids so if you have a wax ring that fails it won't leak thru the floor downstairs. When you bolt down the toilet to the floor calk the toilet to the floor all except the back area so if you do spring a leak it will seep out the back and show on the floor. Always change the compression ring on the new valve see my other comment.

You should never caulk/silicone around the toilet base even as you had mentioned by leaving the back side open. Most floors are not 100% level therefore a small leak may never be noticed at the back side but pool up inside and leak down to whatever lies beneath.

[@kevinvt4174]

Sorry, your wrong.

@@kevinvt4174 Hi Kevin! You’re so uneducated and child like that you don’t even know how to spell ‘you’re’ vs ‘your’. Is there anything else you want to correct people with coming from a guy with a Grade Three Education? 😂😂😂

@@kevinvt4174 Really? And you can’t even spell ‘you’re’ properly vs ‘your’, a Grade Two word?

[@MrFlasshhh]

if floor is level water will not run out , it'll seep down beside the flange. Caulking is F@#$ing stupid.

[@thegooddoctor8479]

Good video. I open a nice heavy garbage bag right next to the old toilet to be removed. I pick it up off the flange and place it gently into the garbage bag. You can tie it to keep the scent down as well as the old wax ring mess. Then you can carry it out of the house without worrying about a boo boo.

[@HomeRenoVisionDIY]

Good stuff!

[@daveg.howell9892]

@@HomeRenoVisionDIY My buddy and I were doing a reno on his place. We were about to take out the old wax ring remains but the dog had eaten them! LOL

[@stevemitz4740]

I [an old retired plumber] say this way is wrong! Closet augers can rip out that type of flanged wax ring! (& plunging a down the line stoppage can blow out un-reinforced wax] It's much better to use a 110-"felt-lined" wax ring, [for wall-mounted bowels] (They won't blow out when plunging out a stoppage!) Before the wax, set the bowl on bolted-down closet bolts] [& if it rocks, shim it up with wood wedges] then draw an outline around the bowl, remove the bowl, install wax ring, calk inside the line, [not silicone!] set the bowl, feel the wax squishing, bolt up, & wipe up calking!

[@garywebster3423]

Wooden wedges rot. Plastic wedges are forever.

[@stevemitz4740]

@@garywebster3423 Yes! Just like the wooden floor will rot out someday! As the Indians say, "Only the rocks last forever." But I disagree, only God, Heaven & Hell will last forever! [Fact!]

[@kylevorenkamp2416]

-3" inside flange is a code violation here in NC. Will work but not correct. -Flange should sit directly on finished floor not flush with it. -Double bolt your flange bolts (one set of bolts /washers to flange. Other set for toilet. - Multi Turn stops suck. -Do not use the flange bolts that come with toilet. Swap them for set of solid brass ones (not plated). Bolts that come with toilet will be rusted shut in no time. Being nit picky here. I've definitely used 3" inside flanges in the field and used extra thick wax rings to get around the flange being low but it's hardly the right way to do it Signed a plumber

[@stevemitz4740]

@@kylevorenkamp2416 I agree they will work most of the time. When the sewer dept. was water blasting the sewer, a blast came up the WC & soaked the walls, a year later the floors under lay rotted out from a blown wax! Felt or neoprene-lined wax can hold much more pressure, that's why you use them on wall-mount WC's! I have ripped out worthless plastic insert wax flanges with a closet auger! So why not use a 110-insert, wall-mount wax?

[@romanengel1097]

NEVER EVER CAULK AROUND A TOILET. For if the are any leak issues you won't be able to tell. Slowly but surely you will get rot on your floor, fir the water has no place to escape to except your subfloor. NEVER EVER USE SHIMS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! If you use shims, something is wrong with sub-floor, or wax ring. Use a thicker wax ring. There are your basic wax ring / then a medium wax ring / or what we use a very thick wax ring. In over 30 years of toilet installs, we have never had a wax ring fail, it solves all imperfections in uneven floor situations. Wax rings are the best. There are rubber seals / polymer seals out there but eventually they all dry rot or split. WAX IS PREMIUM, never dry out, never crack, never misshape, never leak! B. S. on all these DYI repair people trying to sell you a newfangled art of installing a simple toilet!!!

[@robertbuchtman1066]

Thanks!

[@macoeur1122]

I was really nervous about my new toilet installation. Would have installed it myself except that I was convinced that my flange, being exactly level with the new floor, was too low and going to be a problem. My plumber actually told me he preferred for the flange to be at floor level. I had purchased both a regular wax ring and the extra thick one for him to choose from and he preferred the thick one (also his standard way) The reason I was being so careful is because the floor I put in was a floating vinyl plank. ...and the compound I had to use to level the way-out-of-wack subfloor could fail if it ever gets significantly wet (a little risky, yes, but it's only me living here and I'm not going to let that happen). The toilet's been in for a year now and not a hint of any problems. Apparently I got the floor perfectly level which the plumber told me would also work in my favor. He felt that the entire install conditions were ideal and that I should relax and trust that it's as good as it gets.

[@HomeRenoVisionDIY]

whenever your flange is flush use the extra thick wax for sure. Cheers!

[@tahotoy]

Only Jeff does it right. Why am I never surprised to hear him say it?

[@apebblemaster4570]

Thank you SO MUCH for blurring out that nasty sewey hole! You have done every viewer of this video a great service!

[@ParagonBG]

I installed a brand new toilet in my new bathroom this past Thursday before your video came out. I was worried I was going to see something I did wrong. I did it exactly how you showed so I'm super confident now! Woot woot!

[@HomeRenoVisionDIY]

Great job! Cheers! Sleep well my friend!

[@bobcaygeon975]

Had American Standard in my rentals, valve guaranteed to fail after 2 yrs. Same with Kohler. Have TOTO's at my house. 17 yrs without a problem.

[@loramcclamrock5549]

Toto is the best. The hole through which it flushes is larger, so less likely to clog.

[@andreegross]

Is TOTO a brand name?

[@JonnyCat63]

Agree, Toto is the best. I almost always install the Drake or the Entrada on all my remodels.

[@David1993W]

@@andreegross yes, its a brand name just like american standard or kholer.

[@alvideoprod]

Licensed Plumber here. I'm surprised nobody mentioned that reducing the 3" PVC pipe with a smaller inserted Home Depot flange will restrict the flow at the base of the toilet.

[@wikmoto]

I mentioned it LOL. Along with a lot of other things that he did wrong. He would get laughed off of my job site in about 30 seconds. He certainly not the worst I've seen but he's a little on the hacky side.

[@matthews5560]

This guy is saying everyone does it wrong and he does it right but he reduced the flow by a lot!🤦🏻‍♂️ makes no sense to use these quick flanges. Cut the old one out and keep the 4”

[@IvanRossS]

😂 yep I'm not a licensed plumber but I noticed that right away...

[@robertcamble3543]

I recently installed a toilet at work ,I used an extra nut to keep the bolt in place extra wax from the old wax seal around the flange along with a new wax seal on the bowl . This helps prevent leaks down in the lower floor. I used joint compound with plaster of Paris under the base of the toilet . This prevents shifting over time them connect the water line . I've replaced toilets like this for many yrs & never had a callback for a leaky toilet that Installed in over 24 yrs . One guy told my supervisor & dug it up & removed the plaster from it . Guess what ? A week later a patient went & clogged it & the water seeped under & leaked I to the patient rm below . I laughed at both of them .

[@zarkes7943]

Hey dumbass, how big is the outlet of your toilets exactly? 99% of toilets don't have outlets even 2" diameter. This reduction would do absolutely nothing

[@robp5656]

Without being overly negative on the previous installation - Jeff, you are professional and a pleasure to watch and learn from.

[@HomeRenoVisionDIY]

Cheers Rob. I had the pleasure of working as a warranty manager for a major renovation contractor, and in that experience I had the opportunity to see what goes wrong on the project even years later. That experience is what most contractors are missing. The what happens to your project over time because they seldom get called back to fix mistakes so they keep making the same mistakes over and over not knowing that their systems are flawed. Integrity means to learn from them and make corrections. never stop learning and getting better. Cheers!

[@christopherzatalokin8652]

Thank you for coming back through before the finiahed bathroom shot and putting the correct sized toilet seat on.

[@trentblasting]

Haha I was looking for this comment

[@T-bone6o]

Saw that also and checked the comments too😊

[@brettjacobs242]

🤯The Solo cup is brilliant. Drain sealed, and a place to put the old wax. THX!

[@ecaryn.]

Such a brave man! Going rogue with no gloves! 🫣

[@Otis884]

Many people that work with their hands don't like wearing gloves if at all possible. Agreed it leaves you open to infection and that's not a good thing, I know.

[@ecaryn.]

Yes, I am one of those people who works with their hands, so I get it. However, I've swapped out a number of toilets myself over the years and that's one space I'm using latex gloves, no exceptions, cuz ew, lol! Shudder.

[@bobcaygeon975]

​@@Otis884 Your hands sweat in latex, your pores open

[@mangos2888]

I hate seeing any toilet work happening without gloves.

[@silvergrizzly316]

​@@ecaryn.You are so RIGHT, even when I change out my own toilet I wear gloves because we all know what it's like to have a digit to slip thru the TP😬 or is that just me...🥴

[@MarkSmith-js2pu]

As a 40 yr Insurance adjuster I can not emphasize enough how important that seal is. If done wrong years of repeated seepage and leakage will rot the subfloor. Then I had to be the bad guy and quote the policy states only sudden and accidental damage is covered and NOT repeated seepage and leakage. So if your supply line pops, you are covered. Years of seepage, you are shot out of luck.

[@PhatKatDJs]

I had to do this last night.. discover the toilet leaking into the basement. Pulled it off and saw the same type of mess. The solo cup trick GENIUS!! That sewer gas like to knock me out.. tossed that cup in there and it was way more manageable. Also had to get the spacer.. thanks you so much

[@doctorbill6301]

Changing a toilet became CHANGING OUT THE FLOORING !

[@ringo6052]

Like in the MASK video, I just wanted to change the oil and they pulled out the whole engine and transmission, this is a cheat ???

[@kevinrogers7650]

It almost always needs to be changed, lol. I've had to change floors and joists occasionally. I got a call from someone who just said they needed a toilet repair, and it was smashed all over the basement floor with a 2' x 3' hole where the toilet shoulda been.

[@everydaygo-ogling6369]

@@doctorbill6301 it also was a whole bathroom remodeling

[@fitybux4664]

And while you're at it, the kitchen needs remodeling too!

[@ringo6052]

@@kevinrogers7650 Next time, a guy tells people you're going to renovate the entire bathroom and shows them how the toilet was installed. That way you'll be spared a lot of nasty slander.

[@BryanTorok]

I just love how everything in these videos just come right apart like there isn't years or decades of rust and/or corrosion binding everything together. I have a toilet where I'm planning to use a drill and extension to drill off the top of those bolts. Even with a honking big screwdriver, they won't budge. So, not even two minutes in and we have our first problem.

[@neonknight94]

the bolts were clearly corroded. Its about the tools and knowhow. He did say if the bolts give you trouble a grinder can be your best friend. For some reason he used channel locks. You should use an adjustable wrench or better a wrench that is the right size, you will get the best grip on the nut and better torque around the bolt. If youre strong enough, the old tank doesnt need to come off, its all gettin trashed anyway. I pull the whole toilet, tank and all when i do this. Good luck with the install if its not already done.

[@jeffguarino2097]

You can also use a sledge hammer ? Unless you are undecided about keeping the old toilet.

[@BryanTorok]

@@jeffguarino2097 But, as he points out, that will one heck of a mess to clean up.

[@jeffguarino2097]

@@BryanTorok I know there are lots of debris but a shop vac is good and the big pieces are easier to carry. I have done this before. Sometimes you can fight with bolts for a long time and then to cut them off is also a pain in a confined space.

[@RonPieper61]

Excellent job on both the reno and the video. Who'd have thought I would have enjoyed watching someone install a toilet.. Canadians have a knack for DIY videos!

[@TheStobyReport]

Read some of the comments. This guy just installed one of the toilets that won't be showing up on the next guys fingers on one hand.

[@abcdefghijklmnop514]

FYI for everyone. you r toilet flange needs to sit on your finished floor. so it needs to be 1/4in higher than the floor. why the other toilet he removed was leaking. the flange looked flush. there are spacers you can buy to raise it up.

[@emailjimsylvester]

Oatey makes a foam ring kit with spacers to seal flanges above or below the floor. Soooo much better than wax, and worth the extra money.

[@whitefeather5629]

Agreed. Flange goes on top of the flooring. I'm not sure why people don't get this. Setting the flange even with the flooring alows water if it leaks to go under the flooring immediately. Also it has to do with how high the wax ring is designed to be the correct height and squish out. And never ever ever grout your toilet to the floor unless you want a high chance of breaking the toilet the next time you need to reset it. Also, if you're going to silicone

[@philindeblanc]

Ok, but he used this Oatey gasket and it reduced the width of the drain. SO this doesn't seem ideal...Yet, this is THEE way to install a toilet?

[@abcdefghijklmnop514]

@@philindeblanc that flange is typically used when your flange has been cut off or you are connecting to an old cast iron and your cant use pvc glue. honestly that’s probably a better option than a spacer cause the pipe extends down and seals around the inside of toilet main drain. if your worried about “reducing” the inside pipe width, remember your toilet drain is already smaller than the typically toilet drain so if wouldn’t matter if he reduced the pipe side by using that flange.

[@matthewcarbone2108]

Yes exactly why the unit owner above me leaked my ceiling she needed to have her toilet raised and new wax seal

[@tjam4229]

My only criticism is that I CANT STAND when people use “pliers” where “wrenches” are clearly the optimal tool.

[@peteevans7776]

Yes sloppy work and it informs others the wrong way to do nuts.

[@dictare]

Indeed it really gets my goat when jacks ruin the finish by not using no maring tools.

[@Publicname6570]

don't forget the box cutter as a screw driver.

[@keithcarter9048]

I really enjoyed your video today. The next time my toilet needs replacing I’ll be able to tell my wife how to do it.😂

[@KShockey-xc5bp]

round bowl american standard edgemere toilet replaced a glacier bay toilet

[@sal5162]

Your installation was no different than 99% of standard.

[@stephenr6671]

He’s in Canada.

[@orboflightning]

@@stephenr6671what’s that have to do with anything?

[@daveharr7969]

@@orboflightningHe is in Canada

[@ivanscountrymusicandcars2357]

This guy is in Canada!

[@everydaygo-ogling6369]

The fact that is 99% standard doesn't mean that 99% of contractors install it correctly and hence the video. And for the rest of us, this is very instructive and educational. Maintenance dude at my apartments is an idiot and every time leaves the toilet wobbling around and sh*** coming out through onto the floor. And he does it on every apartment for YEARS like that. By the way I'm not in Canada I'm on Texas. Just saying

[@joet3935]

Thanks for the affirmation. It is nice to know that I've been doing this right.

[@chargerfan5513]

I repaired and installed many toilets in my days as a service plumber-----even showed the "licensed" plumber I worked for some tricks. Never use a wax ring with a plastic insert (they reduce the outward flow)....If needed, shim to level, then use sanded grout-on a tile floor, or a quality flexible caulk on vinyl. Throw the garbage hardware away that comes with the toilet. Use solid brass bowl bolts, w/ ss washers and nuts, and never, NEVER put pliers on new chrome valves, nuts, or any fixture finish that will get marred by the teeth. A flange should ALWAYS be 1/2" ABOVE the floor level and as large as possible. In extreme cases a thick wax ring, (or someone that is experienced at setting toilets) may need to be used. After I saw the small size of the existing drain, the smaller size of the repair flange you had, and the even smaller size of the plastic insert used, the toilet not anchored BEFORE adding the seat, (with a razor knife), I had seen enough. Almost 16 minutes of HUH ?

[@uneektalent]

The "copper ring" is actually a brass ferrule.

[@alro2434]

I'd say compression sleeve, he's 0 for 2.

[@Tony-q4f3t]

@@alro2434 And the Brits say olive, he's 0 for 3

[@kendallas3705]

I replace the ferrule 100% of the time. It only takes a few minutes to do it properly.

[@rondowty4396]

WHAT was the purpose of removing the packing nut and turn valve at 7:25 when you are removing the ENTIRE shutoff???

[@chrisanderson9856]

As a past licensed plumber, in my opinion, you added an extra step to removing the toilet. I set a 32-gallon plastic leaf bag next to the toilet and just picked the whole thing off and set it into the bag. Then gone!! Yes, I empty the water and disconnect the supply. I set the new toilet in the same manner. I will say the wax ring with a horn is far superior to one without. I never used a plastic closet flange due to the possibility of someone leaning and cracking them. I've seen it way too many times. I only used the metal ring flanges. I might have done the flange differently, so I didn't need to reduce it to 3 inch.

[@MaMa-qh4dy]

Steve Lav hates the wax rings with the plastic horn. He says that when dumping the water, it splashes up on the angled horn and can cause water leaks on the floor.

[@sparky3869]

@@KLondike5 3 inch pipe is all you need. The outlet of a toilet is only 2.5"

[@csmeyer24562]

oblong seat lid at first then a round seat lid at the end?

[@blayne2029]

right. there was clearly a switch.

[@HomeRenoVisionDIY]

LOL. i had 4 toilets on site that I had tested during a live show and mixed up the lids during the install. great catch! Cheers!

[@ChrisWard64658]

Good tips thanks.

[@zanderday4466]

looks good to me & I have installed more toilets than I can remember with Never a fail . . . .but I Much favor a quarter turn ball valve on the water inlet though

[@HomeRenoVisionDIY]

me too. however I wanted to show a no plumbing necessary option for folks at home and save them a future leak. Cheers!

[@chrism9976]

My tile ended up not level. Use tile shims and a level to get it straight, then grouted around the base. Solved the rocking problem.

[@HomeRenoVisionDIY]

well done. solid as a rock forever. Cheers!

[@mickeyandlucy]

But…put grease on the toilet base as a release agent so the grout doesn’t cement the toilet to the floor.

[@jeffreyhalat1535]

Great video.. we redid both bathroom floors with LVL about 8 years ago.. I did all of your techniques including the Heavy Duty Wax ring. I’m on a SOG so my floors had the raised flanges.. however my master has a 10 inch rough in. I wish I had more room for a bigger better toilet!!

[@michaelgleason4791]

Been doing this for decades yet still doesn't know which way to turn a nut. Wrong tools, these videos are always worth a laugh.

[@markmurto]

Have to agree. But don't lie. You've turned a few bolts wrong in your time. I'm just amazed this guy used the old valve comp ring when he had the new one in hand.

[@bwacek]

When you replaced the supply valve, you replaced it with another "classic" style one. Why not go for the 90 degree turn (ball) version? Yes it's a few bucks more, but there are less things that can break over time? Is there a benefit to sticking with the classic style?

[@HomeRenoVisionDIY]

I decided to save the valve as a way of showing folks a no plumbing option. Cheers!

[@markarita3]

@@HomeRenoVisionDIYThe ¼-turn ball valve (definitely more used today, and less trouble down the road) to which he's referring comes in the same compression format that you used. I was also surprised you didn't go with that type.

[@TonyPombo]

It was surprising to see him discard the new nut in favor of the old one, which had 40 years of "patina." Everything else in the bathroom appears fresh and modern, except for that aged nut and the grimy pipe. Perhaps he could have taken off the nut and washer, cleaned the pipe, and then fitted the new one? Doing this before tiling might have allowed for a smaller hole in the tile, eliminating the need for a low-quality split plastic flange. Such a fine bathroom warrants a metal flange.

[@kylevorenkamp2416]

​@@HomeRenoVisionDIYCould have gotten a quarter turn compression stop and installed it into the existing furrel / compression nut just like you did with the multi turn. No plumber needed. No harder.

[@shanechostetler9997]

One thing I would do that I haven’t seen mentioned would be to use good silicone based caulking around the flange so if any water gets under the toilet it won’t get into the subfloor.

[@scottschreiber6008]

I always get my flange bolts in place then mark a line on top with a marker so I can see if the bolts are spinning when tightening them done.

[@markarita3]

ABSOLUTELY! I always find it odd that they don't stamp a line on those...or at least mention to do that in the instructions. Absolutely CRUCIAL that the bolt head's (wide portion) remains "perpendicular" to the slot it's sitting in! Also very surprised he didn't cover that.

[@TheKingofkrypton]

I encourage anyone doing this for themselves to watch the series that these clips are taken from. He goes over a lot of details that will safe you many headaches.

[@HomeRenoVisionDIY]

Cheers King!

[@bennettrousdale4299]

Reusing the compression nut and feral is not recommended when you are back fixing the leak a week or two later.

[@crazysquirrel9425]

I seated my wax ring by simply sitting on the toilet and gently rocking around a bit. When toilet stops rocking, it is set.

[@tetontent]

That is how I’ve done thousands of installs when I was in the sewer and drain trade. This video complicates things. Rarely have I ever pulled a take to repair or install toilet.

[@crazysquirrel9425]

@@tetontent Had a toilet one time that needed replacing. I couldn't use caulk on the toilet base. Had to mix Plaster of Paris to level the toilet. Floor sloped like an old Batman TV show lol One side set on the floor other side was 3/4" gap from toilet to floor. But it was level and didn't leak. Plaster of Paris gets really HOT when mixing. Sets up really fast too. Can't have any mistakes.

[@sevanson1]

no quarter turn valve? No crescent wrenches? OH, My!

[@TonyPombo]

Ya, right? He threw away the new nut and didn't even clean the pipe. Some alcohol would have made it white again. But, it looks terrible. Also, had he removed the valve prior to installing the floor, the hole cut in the tile would be smaller and he could have used a nice metal pipe flange instead of the crappy plastic split one. Also, why not a synthetic wax ring? Do they suck or something?

[@sewerrat7612]

​@@TonyPombosynthetics don't last as long in my experience (see more failures) they do work though

[@TonyPombo]

@@sewerrat7612 Thanks for the info

[@hhenrynice6843]

I skip the vac & skip taking the old one apart. I carry rge whole thing out in a big tote and no mess & do it in half your time.

[@RespectfullySubmitted]

He installed it wrong. You are supposed to affix (stick) the wax ring to the bottom of the toilet so when it's mounted the wax ring is in the correct position and doesn't leak if off the mark. The way he does it here is how most people do it (wrong); which is ironic because of the title of the video. If he had just read the instructions he would have known. Most of the time this method will work fine if you take care the way Jeff shows it. Love your videos Jeff, thanks!

[@whiplash1973]

I came here to type the same thing. He is officially one of the 90 percent installed incorrectly

[@ryanksiazek]

Me too. I was going to post the same thing. You have to mold the wax to the bottom of the toilet first or it will not seal properly.

[@matthewk6731]

It doesn't matter which way it is done. It only matters that the installer places the bowl straight down onto the bolts and wax ring, and that there is compression on the ring to make the seal. I have installed many toilets by setting the wax ring onto the flange because I got tired of the wax ring falling off while lifting the bowl.

[@Power19501]

Totally agree the wax ring goes on the toilet bottom and not on the floor.

[@larryldh57]

Can be done either way

[@gekehein778]

As a female not having a willing handy husband, you give me the knowledge and confidence to do thing myself. Thank you.

[@HomeRenoVisionDIY]

Happy to help. Cheers!

[@nedcramdon1306]

Bit of a dig there?? 😏

[@-_-John-_-]

Does he get embarrassed when you "outman" him?

[@TMS5100]

A global survey of every toilet installation in the entire world was conducted and a precise number of exactly 90% was calculated for this video.

[@Ult.handy.18]

I love how he only has channel locks. Dude, get some wrenches!

[@mikethelakesidelogger8757]

There is a product available at plumbing store that plumbers use the turns the water to a “jello” substance to prevent the mess. And if you are reusing the toilet the product dissolves with water. Cheap, cheerful and no mess.

[@MapleMoose42]

I came to the comments to say the same thing. Oatey LiquiLock, less than $5 last time I bought it. Well worth it to avoid having to deal with unsanitary water. Follow OP's technique to remove as much water from the bowel as possible, then solidify the rest.

[@jareddaniels6352]

This seams so straight forward. Why doesn't everyone do it this way?

[@chrispat7579]

Because a lot of it was wrong.

[@naturalnatemarvel9594]

He removes the tank off the old toilet instead of just removing the whole toilet at once. Then installs the new toilet all together. What A Maroon!!!

[@clarkwilson2670]

Shits heavy

[@allaboutthememories]

Looks great! The only thing that I would add, is that I hate dealing with the wax ring, they make a rubber ring, called "Better than wax", I've been using those for the last 8 years or so and they are so much better than dealing with the wax ring.

[@samelioto476]

Wax lasts pretty much forever, rubber doesn't.

[@rp1645]

Yes I used that better than wax part. My area on cement floor around toilet was always very damp. When I took off toilet the cement floor was all broken with big groves. Basically the area around down pipe was all coming apart 😢 I Smoothed the floor up with JET SET cement repair. I used that on manhole channeling and sewer pipe repairs I used that insert into down pipe to make tighter seal on to two pieces. After I installed toilet I dryer out the cement around base, and watched if cement floor started showings dampness. It dried up the moisture, no dark creep of cement changing to damp color. So far it's stayed dry around my toilet. But boy I was amazed at how terrible a job they did around down pipe, when they built my home. I have had to do so many replacement of household things over the years ( furnace) roof ect. So many very poor construction on my 3 bedroom Rambler. I use to do mainline sewers and dig sidesewers as a job. Lots of side sewer repairs.

[@dannymaldonado183]

Retired plumber, would also recommend a Brass craft 1/4 turn valve. Instead of using the little plastic bolt holders I use a double nut on the studs. This not only holds the set stud in place but you will never have to worry about the bolt and nut turning if you ever need to remove the toilet again.

[@Pdariean]

Why throw the old toilet away like that i seen nothing wrong with it . looks like it still worked.

[@FIGJAM1105]

wouldn't a quarter turn ball valve be more reliable long term?

[@HomeRenoVisionDIY]

Yes! But I wanted to show folks a no plumbing option for those folks who want to avoid a leak and not deal with plumbing changes. There is more than 1 way to do anything right! Cheers!

[@theguyinmaine]

One of the happiest ladies I ever saw was when I was painting out a renovation and when I was caulking trim I caulked around the toilet base. She said "I have a husband and 4 boys. That is the greatest thing I have ever seen, thank you so much".

[@bryankinslow6851]

Then if your wax ring ever leaks, you'll never know it until the floor starts rotting because the moisture is held underneath.

[@RossReedstrom]

@@bryankinslow6851 The compromise trick is to caulk the front and sides, leave the back open. Catch the "overshoots", but have a space for leaks to make it out.

[@RandalUrsel]

I would leave a gap in the caulking at the back , facing the wall. You get the advantages of supporting the toilet and preventing rocking and the easier cleaning but you will give yourself a chance to detect a leak before your floor is destroyed

[@theguyinmaine]

@@RandalUrsel that's what I did.

[@BuceGar]

4:54 Why is the hole blurred out? Really?

[@ForYourAmusementOnly]

Dude is definitely not a licensed plumber and his way is definitely not the right way

[@PanamaSticks]

Question- I inherited my mother's house. Her upstairs toilwt worked great before she died. NO ONE has used it since. Now the water doesn't stay in the bowl. There doesn't aopear to be any water in the sub floor. And I'd know because the toilet is right above some kitchen cabinets. Some have suggested the toilet developed a crack between the bowl and S-trap that allows the water level to go down. But HOW? As I said, NO ONE has used the toilet.

[@BillSmith-y8r]

I’d wear gloves when dealing with someone’s shitty toilet.

[@OCC_Plumbing_and_Restorations]

America. One of the only countries where we replace perfectly good modern looking toilets with perfectly good modern looking toilets just for the hell of it.

[@henrysalami7593]

Thats so oddly funny!

[@LawrenceGilly]

As a home owner who has done this, I am glad I did the same. I have told my son I need to do the same for his new home. Precious owners did a bunch of remodeling and did a bad job.

[@FirstNameLastName-hy1pf]

90% of plumbers are telling stories that all other plumbers doing everything wrong.

[@tomspecht4733]

Watched the entire thing and you never really detailed what it is that 90% of people do wrong on installing a toilet?

[@johnmcclelland751]

I wondered the same thing. Perhaps it was using a "99 cent wax ring"? I'm thinking this was just a click-bait title.

[@williamwightman8409]

Why is wax still used and not a soft durable polymer set of large cross-section o-rings, say soft polyurethane, nitrile, butyl, or silicone? They would last forever and accommodate rocking without leaking if the interface got loose.

[@bobcaygeon975]

People are supersized nowadays, so leveling and structurally sound floor is prime importance.

[@stevejohnson8837]

SUPERSIZED you got that right lmao

[@JohnSmith-ti2kp]

@bobcaygeon975-- That is a very diplomatic way of saying grossly obese.