I Experiment With Foam Clay A New Hobby Essential?

Im Trying to make wargaming tables as light as possible but still using the techniques im comfortable with. but still been good and strong for wargaming to stand the test of wargamers smashing resin tanks on it. so i though id try Foam clay its light weight strong holds detals well and paints just like plaster rocks its a NEW hobby essential
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[@MakerDaveBagnall]

Wonderful video Luke, Nice to see our product being put through its paces. I know we already spoke about this earlier but for anyone reading a couple of more tips on what you can do when working with this stuff. You can use water to get a nice smooth finish if you need it, a heat gun can dry it out pretty fast if its a thin layer but be careful not to go too hot ;) and for the molding you can throw in the a freezer so that you can demould quicker and set it aside to cure. we have found with the freezer method if you went thick with the model it can lose some of the finer detail fyi.

[@sgt-slag]

I suggest rolling it through a Pasta Machine, to make consistently thick, thin sheets, for roads, or floors; use a texture roller after you make the thin sheets. If it sticks to the rollers, try dusting them with talcum powder, as a release agent. Cheers!

[@negotiableaffections]

Seen this for cosplay, but never considered it for terrain building - interesting. I was surprised it responded to the leopard-spot technique as I thought that relied on the absorbancy of the plaster. I have an idea for the road building, maybe you could try it out... Roll out the clay with a smooth roller, then place it on a piece of loose weave fabric and then use the texture roller. This would hopefully imprint the cobbles etc AND force the clay into the fabric underneath. When dry it should be a flexible/strong 'hybrid-fabric' that could even be applied to a slightly uneven base. Idea 2) With a texture roller and a circular cookie cutter, figure basing could be a doddle?

[@EssexBoyz]

Keith Stewart love that road idea 💡👍🏼😃

[@dextersamson8286]

Saw this*

[@negotiableaffections]

@@dextersamson8286 Thank you, Dexter, Mea culpa, it was a contraction of, "I've seen this used in cosplay circles..." but you know how it is with commenting at speed. I shan't go to the bother of editing it as I suppose many hobbyists will understand what I was trying to say. Thanx again for you're very pacific grammer correction.

[@patrickbateman69420]

@@dextersamson8286 it actually makes more sense contextually to say "seen this" (i.e. a common contraction of "I have seen this") rather than "saw this", because it implies that he has generally 'seen it around' rather than just at one specific moment. A) it flows better for anyone reading that way; B) it's correct; and C) we all knew exactly what he meant. If you want to try and correct people's English in future, be better at it yourself.

[@HighEyeWorkshop]

This is another one of your genius moments, mate. We owe you a lot for your experiments. Wishing you every success. Hope you're well. Stay safe.

[@graemerigg4029]

Clay sticking to roller, a thin dusting of talcum powder. Cosplayers use the foam for sculpting detail and filling seams on eva foam armour.

[@scrubsrc4084]

"Heavy is good, heavy is reliable. If it does not work you can always hit him with it" Some flexible paints would work a treat with any parts that remain flexible

[@TheNorthernRider]

Sneaky fucking Russians...

[@coleenknickelbein8063]

Fabric paints are excellent for remaining flexible.

[@NeillRobinson]

Trying to remember where that quote is from. I have not slept in 3 days. Help.

[@scrubsrc4084]

@@NeillRobinson Boris the bullet dodger from snatch whn Tommy is buying a gun off him

[@ckvonpickles3751]

Why is he called Boris the bullet dodger? Because he dodges bullets, Avi

[@mikecirfield4947]

Luke I have been watching your vids on and off for about 2 years now but never got round to doing anything. With all the time on my hands due to lock down I decided to have a go and make my first table. So I spent a coupe of hours watching and making lists of stuff to buy and then sent off to various suppliers including your store at Geek Gaming. Just a modest first purchase of your casting plaster and modelling compound. I was astonished when they arrived the just now within 24 hours of ordering!! That is incredible service especially during the lockdown. Please pass on my thanks to all at Geek Gaming. Just waiting for the various rock moulds and paints to arrive from Amazon etc so I can have a stab. I must say you make it all look very straightforward (which I'm sure it is not). Thanks for sharing your techniques in the videos you post and wish me luck! I might even have a go at making my own compound when toilet roll supply returns to normality. Thank you.

[@benduston]

Luke, going in dry during lockdown 2020

[@Ainar86]

I don't think lube producers are considered essential businesses so it might be a harbinger of things to come...

[@philthycat1408]

Lockdown 2021 should have it sorted.

[@jasoncoates1835]

@@philthycat1408 Yeah, we have it pretty much taken care of by now.

[@rachaelkasper5445]

I love it...I'm working on a dollhouse with a surrounding landscaping diorama and this will make lovely headstones in a cemetery. This is an exciting product.

[@ThePlacemat]

be interesting to see how flexible it is for roll up roads. maybe back it with cloth rather than foam board. something like hessian.

[@ThePlacemat]

@@valasdarkholme6255 Hi. Yes I've seen him make a custom Burma matt once. Done similar for my club.

[@JayAdan]

Great video. I've been thinking about playing with this stuff myself but I didn't have a specific use-case in mind for it. Seeing how the roller texture turned out gives me a reason.

[@coleenknickelbein8063]

Love these experiment vids. I do this myself with new products but it's super nice to know what will work and not work before sinking too much money into a new supply. Appreciate everyone still putting out videos during this time of social distancing and self quarantine. Thank you so much. I also appreciate that you mention Patreon but dont make a big deal out of it. I love Amazon affiliate links too. Especially right now, when people are ordering so much online. Hope you and your friends/family/country are doing well! Cheers!

[@JPWestmas]

For the first time I think I am convinced with this material that rolling patterns and molds are super practical and clean! Thanks for this video. :)

[@childofthedarkrat]

So many potential jokes and innuendos to be made with this video. Pull it off, push it in, wait for it to get hard etc... Loved the outro too. Would appreciate more bloopers and the like. Stay classy Luke!

[@stephenpotter3509]

That was a really thorough test from someone who clearly knows the right questions. I came across foam clay looking at a model armour clip. You can dremmel and sand it when cured. It’s way less messy than mucking about with plaster too.

[@TheGreatMim]

Brilliant video Luke, love the bits at the end😂. Really like the way that stuff worked with rollers, made thin enough they’d be great for adding stone effects on mdf kits, like a church I’m building soon. Just an idea, but wonder if we could use it the other way around and press things we want to copy into it, let it dry and use it as a mould to poor plaster into?

[@j453]

Everytime you look up at your top camera, it's like you're looking up to god for help lol

[@sprootown]

Polymer clay is what i make tiles plants stone walls. unusual rock formations...... easy and fast to use, there's a brand Cosclay that is quite flexible. handy to just pop in the oven for 15 minutes. And you have it ready to paint...thin or solid. Nice vid! Thanks!

[@BroadswordWargaming]

This stuff looks really good man, good find! Loving the looks on the video too. Great work 😁

[@vryc]

Super late. But I just found this stuff a month ago or so and wow! This has changed my molding life. Roads, rocks, wall textures (i.e. wood, stone...). This product is brilliant with the rollers, as you showed us. I've tried brush-on primer/sealer and that seems to really increase the durability and reduces tearing. You can get this down to about 1mm and it still takes a heck of a beating on game boards and the like. Love it.

[@SBEARD12345]

Love the fact the company said thanks, and gave some more tips.. That's a good company there

[@4hedgesfamily]

I love your testing methods. One thing I've noticed over years of building terrain is that soft terrain usually lacks definition, and hard terrain chips. If weight wasn't a factor, what would happen if you make a hollow rock face of foam clay, then filled it with plaster after the clay dried? It seems like you'd have super sturdy terrain that would give when miniatures, dice, and thrown beverage cans hit it.

[@victoryspath4116]

Awesome video Luke! It's answered so many questions for me. I love videos like this. They give me insight into how to use products. After watching this I might pick some up myself and give it a go.

[@craigbirchall6475]

We need more outtakes and gag reels in your videos. And great video matt.

[@modhail6908]

Luke, for the roads, perhaps instead of putting it on the foamboard, you could put it on fabric, to keep the flexibility but help with the tearing?

[@KeldonRaven]

I've sculpted stuff with my daughter with similar stuff. Might have to experiment with it as a terrain medium, the flexibility might be useful for confirming to curved profiles. I'm enjoying seeing if it's mould friendly. I know it's too stringy to peal out 'wet', I'm not sure if it will cure in a mould so your efforts are interesting research. I suspect the cure time is really a case of mould it and leave it for a week. It's an air dry and mould side it's not getting much. Good to know it takes paint well. The roller trick is useful to know, and heres an idea instead of foam board how about forming it directly on something like cheesecloth? Possible play mat material?

[@kevinm3751]

Honestly being it is new and showing the promise it does I say this is a winner and can only get better so long as the manufacturer listens to us and takes our suggestions and issues to heart and try to improve it... Yea WOW!

[@Fissi0nChips]

Got this in Canada from a local craft store. Price was a bit cheaper at $25 CAD for 300 Grams. Exact same packaging except it was branded to the craft store. Can't wait to try it.

[@evanhughes7609]

I think this might be worth a try. Thanks for doing all the hard work!

[@nickdavis5420]

I love it for cosplay and it works with silicon molds . To keep it flexible yet strong you can use hexflex or any Pva glue .

[@jacobhope6164]

Wow! That stuff is amazing! Thanks for sharing your discovery with us.

[@nickbutler7935]

A great initial review Luke. Will be watching keenly for follow-up reviews. I could see me using it perhaps for roads etc with my G.S.W rollers, as for rocks and the like I think I will stick to plaster as weight is not too much of an issue for my static displays. Keep up the great work and to you and all your followers, stay safe, stay well.

[@zargonfuture4046]

Can see this as a great product or surfacing buildings as well. Press molding for things like walls and can see this as a core base for hedges as well. Roads on a flexible base.

[@nicynodle2]

I haven't seen it suggested yet, but a good use for this is slap a bit on a base and squidge it around a bit, boom random terrain height that will never look the same, glue and sand or some static grass and your golden. Oh, this is also a good use as it's using very small amount for model bases so more cost effective.

[@jamie69murphy]

Looks like it would be great for applying roller textures to curved surfaces (like round towers etc.)

[@paulmorgan274]

Hi Luke, can I suggest air dry clay on you tube, you will find quite a range quite a few of us make intricate flowers for displays. Katy sue is a company that makes moulds for the cake and model making groups. Try corn flour to assist getting it out of the mould. Regards Paul from London

[@leganoth2]

I use this a lot in cosplay. For push molds I put them in the freezer and pop them out to air dry. Do that before pulling them out for your undercuts you mentioned

[@solidzaku2]

Luke, a little bit of advice for you on the production side. If you film one part of your workcenter regularly, get a shot in line and see where the physical edges of the table are in view. Once the camera is in place, put some masking tape, or make some marks with a marker so you know where the field of view for the camera is. I'm not 100% sure why you were looking up, but if I had to guess, I'd say it was because you were trying to see if what you were working on was in frame.

[@nickbutler7935]

I recently got some to have a play with. Really weird feel. Anyway. Used the same rock moulds you tried. I did full fills and left them for 5 days, Big negative on cure time. However it did alleviate the undercut problem with careful removal. Detail is super. Also tried in 1/35th scale brick moulds from Dio-Debris. Not a success. Many air bubbles on the surface. Results with my green stuff rollers was fantastic. Have tried with Acrylic, Enamel, Oil and Laquer paints. Works okay with all. I mainly do static dioramas so weight is not really an issue, but I will definitely be using foam clay for some of the road work as it is so very easy to work with. As you said a clean work space is an absolute must. I dropped a piece on a quarry tile, which had been mopped that morning. It shamed me with the crap that it picked up. However does make using ground cover such as small stones etc quite easy.

[@josav09]

a very interesting material. The roads took a lot of punishment and it looked like it was very easy to work with

[@bethanygraham427]

Great to see you back to your best - playing with something new.

[@raymadi1122]

Looks good, have to try on my builds....Thank you Luke

[@charlesvanneste2834]

DIY battle mats? Possibly use a porous cloth backing and thicker foam clay so as not to tear. Would probably have to roll it on dowl for storage.

[@alexneal9534]

This looks very interesting. Love the out takes.

[@sandralachance1424]

I used something very similar (Crayola Model Magic) for few little things, a bucket for my well, a pelt carpet and few bags and it did very well!

[@robinhood1337]

Love your videos! I have been using staedtler fimo air light for some time for basing my minis. After drying it remains quite light and you can cut and carve it quite easily. The result are light, good locking miniature rocks.

[@athollmcnicoll256]

For the sake of weight and durability - looks good but in preference I prefer the old fashioned rock moulds done with plaster, as I know the results will be adequate for my intentions. Cheers Luke stay safe!!

[@jameskilts555]

I wonder if you could make a large roll out board with it? Like a wood plank one would be neat.

[@GalaxyStranger01]

This looks like a fantastic product. It's super light-weight and has a little give to prevent damage. But I really would suggest using Mold Release for any use of molds.

[@Lazorlink]

I saw another quick vid on a guy making his own version of this. Something that may or may not have been posted below, it looks like hard sharp pulls on it can break it much more cleanly than when you were pulling it apart. You might also want to test it after its fully dried. Some comments Ive seen about it for cosplay is that it can get to be brittle. Not sure if that is something that could be stopped with a sealer applied when it gets the the desired dryness or not. Another great vid!

[@nathandbeal]

Worth trying the roads with a fabric backing? I wonder if that would give it a lot more strength.

[@skmarcoux]

Cornflour in mould works

[@espalding3]

Thank you experimenting with this product. A terrain/rock material instead of plaster or plaster over foam shapes or ground goop for Free-Mo model railroads? Light, able to handle a bit of bashing around, resist temperature changes.

[@seangere9698]

Smooths with water and if you use a heat gun you can dry that stuff out in seconds to minutes depending on how thick it is. Most use it in their Cosplay builds. But I would use it more then plaster. No need to break it up to go around curves on cliff faces and such. As for coloring it use tints/inks vs. paint if you want the color to be absorbed into it. Just add a few drops to it and mix well to get a good base color instead of white. Also it comes in black as well. Something to think about

[@aristotle29]

I bought this stuff to try out because I liked the idea of flexible foam rocks for gaming, but mine took forever to dry, over a week. I know it's winter, but that is a crazy long time. Also, they didn't dry flat, and were curved pretty badly. I'm going to try this again when it warms up, but I was kind of disappointed. It's not a complete loss as I can use them for other things, or maybe re-wet them and try it again

[@TheHikingReader]

Just came across your channel yesterday. Great stuff man! Love the experimental type of video here.

[@edwinoutlaw1706]

Could you try filling gaps on a miniature for conversions and such ? Will it "stick" to plastic ? Shrinkage ?

[@davidnicholls344]

Looks similar to ‘model magic’. Maybe have a look at that?

[@davidnicholls344]

People also comparing model magic to ‘Daiso Clay’? There’s a DIY video on yt too

[@davidnicholls344]

Saw a guy recommending freezing the clay to set it. Makes demoulding easier

[@GaryWilmot1]

Hobby craft do there own version called superlight, its in loads of colour's and its £1 for small portion, www.hobbycraft.co.uk/white-superlight-air-drying-clay-30g/629304-1003

[@greencupcakes1]

GaryWilmot1 was scanning the comments for this! I use that all the time and it hardens SO well ! Great product!

[@bizgigj820]

Now you are more established and have pinned down your materials and techniques more firmly, it would be really nice to see you revisit your how to make xyz for cheap using these supplies videos. They were what first attracted me to your channel and it would be nice to see how you have improved on any recipes and what hasnt changed.

[@Ojthemighty]

20:00 makes it look like the bricks have worn down over the years looks great

[@FrostandFists]

Great video, Luke! This foam definitely seems like it'll be useful in the future! I can't wait to see what projects you incorporate it into! ~ Wolfbrother Methos

[@s1nz3n]

Cloth or vinyl backing for the roll up roads may add strength from tears while still letting it remain as flexible.

[@theQiwiMan]

I woke up this morning not even knowing how badly i needed this thing that I was unaware of even existed is absolutely necessary in my life

[@polito96]

If it does stick well to a cloth. I believe that is will add strength and durability with the cloth backing. The paper from the foam board gave it some strength. Just need to see what cloth works best. But it does look promising for roads.

[@nottinghamboardandwargames1558]

@luke Have you considered Polyurethane foam or just expanding foam in the silicone mold. Also thing layer of das and foam filler.?

[@louislomber7436]

For the roads I would probably have left it on the foam board. Gives it more durability and not ever have to worry about it tearing. Seems like a pretty cool product.

[@Ben_de_pick]

Wow thank you Luke for this discover !! It makes my imagination crazy ahah !! Love love

[@seanseamands]

I use the foam clay for my cosplay crafts..never dawned on me that I could use it towards my tabletops also. Texture reminds me of silly putty here in the states 🤘

[@vlissinger]

oo for the rock molds, do thin layer and fill it up with Polyurethaan foam ( PUR or PU )

[@sandmanhh67]

For the roads you could test rolling onto a cloth backing - that looked like the paper was causing the tears so maybe using a more flexible backing?

[@butchtakamura]

Looks promising. I will try this i'm sure.

[@mikegovan3203]

Great video. I think I will try it for a sewer tunnel I want to build. Thank you

[@kloudwalker1]

If too sticky work it like taffy. Use a quick pull to keep from being stretchy. It will snap apart with the quick pull

[@MechanicalFrog]

Cool stuff. I'm going to try it out some time.

[@MB-st7be]

Cool that you can now bend rocks surfaces over a hill shape instead of just placing them! Or make a humpback bridge road surface, no sweat...

[@joshuaholbrook6096]

I've never used this particular product, but I know with other types of open cell foams, you can do a thinned mix of wood glue, water and paint as your base color. When it dries it will absorb into the foam and harden it, it takes away the flexibility but might increase the overall strength without increasing the weight.

[@RealTerrainHobbies]

Great vid Luke, enjoyed that.

[@adamryan5038]

looks like the best material for the texture rollers

[@bernardbernadette7569]

it look really similar to "patarev" a thing for children as we call it in france. good video mate ! really enjoyed it

[@Fadeing]

Curious if any color can be mixed in pre-cured? So any tears wouldn’t be a stark white as it wears.

[@fnitrox]

cosplayers use this stuff all the time, to work it better you can wet your tools or the surfaces so it wont stick

[@DarthJeep]

I'm currently building a LoZBotW Hinox out of EVA and using the foam clay to detail the EVA sub structure. I've never used it before so thanks for the video. This may help me. This things going to be about a foot tal and tandon it's own two feet.

[@thsterrain]

Luke, have you considered maybe working in some base color into the clay while it's still wet, like kneading a bit of black into the blob before pressing it into the rock mold or onto a base? It might save a step later and possibly make it a bit more durable when cured, and if it does tear later the worked-in color will hide it better. Just a thought. Otherwise this stuff looks really promising!

[@Rob_King_of_the_Plants]

I wonder how it compares to a 60/40 silicone / corn starch mix. I think you could use this mix as a road top after rolling it with a texture roller as well

[@riddok999]

Not sure if it's already been suggested, but what if you try putting the roads on some cloth to bind the back together? Maybe it will stop the tearing! Love the video keep up the good work m8.

[@ontheedgeofshadow2790]

with more experimentation, that might be a real slick way of getting around that weight issue like you said, mate.. great video

[@pezz2686]

Could make an amazing textured battle mat! Also making multiple hollow rock molds would be good because you'll always have a mold to fit everything tricky area because its malleable. Great vid dude.

[@boestera]

I wonder if you could use expanding foam inside the thinner/hollow press mold part and then cut/saw off the excess to give you full support inside of the mold and a flat surface to press against styrofoam.

[@barryslemmings31]

For your shipping/weight problem, have you considered a two-stage plastering technique with balls of polystyrene or sawdust mixed with PVA in the first layer?

[@ModellingforAdvantage]

Useful vid, look forward to seeing more on this product.

[@Hunt5964]

quality review mate, really enjoyed it. your products are quality too. just a thought and you probably have done it already but if you have a marker or cross hair on your desk it will save you looking up to ensure its in the shot. Nice one, cheers Sam

[@Hunt5964]

Lukes Aps - Geek Gaming Scenics well I’ll just shut my uneducated trap! 😂 video quality is always great just something I noticed. Keep up the great work mate!

[@Chili-Tom]

Could you use expanding foam in the thin rock mold ones to give them structure? It would be cheap and easy and would fill it out completely

[@turtleandbear1179]

the clay seems delicate to get out of the silicon molds. try putting it in the refrigerator and take it out cold. might help

[@schmerzdj5719]

U should try getting the bottles with the 2 liquids U mix to make foam and cast that.... Would be interesting to see if that picks up the detail or U get bubbles

[@pezz2686]

Also a comment on you saying everything sticks to it....I wonder if you mixed it with rubble sand etc I wonder how it would turn out.

[@TheBigLigginski]

You can buy a small brick (30g) of this stuff from Hobbycraft for £1. Not cost effective in bulk but useful for anyone who wants to try it out. I quite like the undulations in the paving slabs because it makes them look old and worn. If you made a road out of this stuff you could use that technique to create cart wheel tracks.

[@RyngsRaccoon]

Try mixing the foam clay with PVA, and let dry. Try mixing it with Das Clay, and finally a mix of Das Clay and PVA. I bet you can increase the firmness, and rigidity. As well as change the properties of the clay. I bet 1 part PVA to 3 parts foam clay will have the best results. Just a thought. :)

[@nathanmccook133]

Bet you could back fill them with rigid spray foam and really make a quick light weight terrain

[@Weefather]

I wouldn't want to glue a figure to it that was say standing on one foot. Even after it dries it seem really flexible.

[@SteveForteGMR]

Interesting but a shame that it doesn't cure hard as it might bring issues with heavy minis being put on it. However; really interested to see what you find you can do with it.