I FIXED Army Painter Speedpaints' Reactivation Issue!?! (One Simple Trick Pro Painters HATE)

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This video is about the Army Painter Speedpaints reactivation issue, and how to work around it/fix it so that you can use Speedpaints without any fear of reactivation, and how these paints from Army Painter are really just a new medium to be explored!
PATREON: / danahowl
TWITTER: / dana_howl
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Stevia Sphere - "First Taste of Success"
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[@GoobertownHobbies]

He's VERY cute! Of course the secret was pale sand, I should have known :-)

[@Dreoni_]

I wonder why the speed paint reactivates with water and what the medium is made of.... If only we had a chemist....

[@lukewombat5447]

@@Dreoni_ I think it's just some kind of acrylic medium, water and additives 😅

[@Dreoni_]

@@lukewombat5447 If that's the case then maybe you could use any other medium without reactivating the paint? 🤔

[@legionnaireminis]

We just gona ignore the fact that Dana just used a broom to "block in the eyes" and absolutely nailed it!? 😅 amazing work 👏

[@RobertNolanvaragon]

Well, she did say it took her a few tries. Just didn't show it.

[@jameshoepfner3555]

Seriously! What was with that BRUSH!? I thought she was just gonna be funny or something. Then, “boop” just like that, eyes are in! Also, I know she’s an artist and all, but if I had her skill, I wouldn’t need Speed Paint. Ha ha!

[@saccharineserf7316]

@@jameshoepfner3555 LITERALLY, i gasped

[@lucinawalker3261]

Every bottle of pale sand that is sold, Dana Howl becomes more powerful, more unstoppable

[@Jianju69]

High priestess of the Pale Sands

[@antongunther3977]

My speed paint work flow is as follows: Base coat - all speed paints all the time. If I need to blend colors together at this stage I use the reactivation to my advantage. Varnish with gloss or a 50:50 mix of gloss and matt. Wash and panel line Highlight with normal acrylics. But honestly you can just base coat and detail with just speed paint for most of your minis that are just rank and file infantry. Not every model needs to have an insanely detailed paint job.

[@tsmcgu]

Quick method I've used: Speed paints, then a thin spray of sealer, then highlights. This locks in the base coats, but still allows touch up (of course you can't blend between the layers...)

[@Wookieehair]

Yeah I was waiting for the "just seal it" as the obvious solution.

[@rustedbeetle]

My condolences and hopes for speedy recovery for anyone playing a Pale Sand drinking game.

[@AceTaxiaGaming]

I'd just stick with condolences, they're already dead by the end of the video

[@Sonniface]

Hehee i was thinking the exact same thing while watching this. But the hangover would make me... Pale as sand

[@Annies_mini_marvels]

the elf looks absolutely stunning. Top 3 Dana model... ♥

[@DanaHowl]

Thanks Annie!

[@52Miniatures]

Lovely. And so good to see some experimenting and inspiration. Adding opaque bright colours (maybe like pale sand? 😄) to the contrast paint used first off is a great way to get a matching highlight paint.

[@vargaresa]

For me, the reactivation is rather an advantage, as I got pretty shaky hands and miss a lot of brushstrokes. Now I just take a wet brush and wipe away the paint. It makes my paintjobs look so much cleaner than before.

[@sindrimyr2423]

Yeah, but if you want to varnish the miniature you have to airbrush it because using a brush on varnish will just destroy the paint job.

[@lehcyfer]

@@sindrimyr2423 Who puts the varnish on with brush? Never even thought about it - it is so much easier from a can :)

[@sindrimyr2423]

@@lehcyfer people who aren’t lazy.

[@lehcyfer]

LOL

[@amberlovely1]

@@sindrimyr2423 You say lazy, we say efficient. ;)

[@NiteLynr]

And this is why we need Speedpaint Medium in 100ml bottles instead of just 18ml! Already almost emptied the one that came with my Mega Set and feeling a little grudging about buying one tiny medium.

[@williamhoover6902]

Well done Dana, I always get something good from your videos and I appreciate the thought and detail you put into your videos.

[@floriandanna2534]

Love your work, and the model turned out wonderful, BUT... I personally don't think any quick-paint (contrast, speed, other name) should require this much though and "workaround". While the GW Contrastp are more expensive, they do work "out of the pot". Speedpaints, unfortunately, don't do it for me..

[@tel2671]

See, people have been talking about reactivation and I was wondering what they were on about as I have been using the speedpaint medium to thin the paints down and highlight with 🤦🏻‍♂️

[@andirobb8684]

My main issue is that there needs to be a “work around”. These are marketed as an alternative to contrast. They are supposed to make painting faster and easier. Having to make mixtures of your own speedpaints just to avoid the ain’t coming off the model isn’t very user friendly. They will probably have a place in my pallet but still very disappointed by the product.

[@idiealot9958]

Actually, I thought the same. However, the first time you apply the Crusader Skin it’s like freaking magic. Same with Runic grey over metallics. I strongly recommend getting a color or two and checking them out. Yes, there are issues, but still - 30-40 minutes per tabletop standard mini, and without these awful pooling from contrast - in my book it’s “worth it”.

[@ken31169]

It's not difficult to keep the contrast paints from pooling, you can always draw some of the paint back out with your brush. This whole process seems like a lot of additional work for no reason.

[@TexanJD]

The reactivation actually makes wet blending a dream

[@joel6376]

Contrast is designed to be a one and done deal really. GW didn't want you doing more than undercoating + one application, if their original marketing material is to be believed. Remember when they came out and were pretty much roasted across the board? Took a good 6-12 months for the community to discover what they were good for (hint: not what GW marketed them as really). This product, if it is intended to be a fill in for contrast as GW intended then doing more than a single coat isn't really what they want.

[@TexanJD]

@@joel6376 contrast is a good base coat, that's about it. But. These are excellent base coats as well. And with the ability to wet blend built into them I've had much more success using them well than I have the contrasts. I much prefer these.

[@BrianReichert]

I like how textured this looks. It's nice and different from the ultra smooth look most people go for and I think really works for such an organic figure. Nice job.

[@ColonelSandersLite]

Well, most people you see are painting 28-32mm scale stuff. That elf is 75mm. Doubling (or more) the scale lets you do a *lot* more.

[@dekai7992]

Amazing results! Will definitely try that technique out for one of the loads of boardgame minis I have on my backlog! Thanks a lot! The next step I'll probably try out is shading down with some complementary colours.

[@MiniatureMarvels]

That is such a great paint job! I love the details of the stitching. It's subtle, but it adds so much detail.

[@duxbellorum01]

Great update Dana and beautiful figure! I’ve yet to receive my mega set, but your take on it was exactly what I had in mind when seeing all the reactivation videos out there; there’s really only so much that is involved with acrylic paints, so it’s kinda only a matter of experimenting with mediums etc. It’s not like there is some revolutionary “new” medium out there, they’re all just tweaked a bit to behave differently. Thanks again and keep up the great work!

[@zakhunt]

I love it! Great video, great tips! I’ve got my speed paints ready for their first project so I’ll definitely be trying out your method! Thank you Dana!

[@Broeckchen]

I keep gaping in wonder and amazement on how you started with a boney beige and build up such a vibrant, organic and varied skin color from that! That takes so much understanding and mastery about color, I just... wow! Art goals!

[@johnhanley5546]

Very nicely done!! Best example of Speedpaint use I've seen yet!! Truly a great video of painting Aikido and using it's 'weaknesses' to your advantage!!

[@shayrazor]

I've been looking forward to this one. Great video, really makes me want to leave work early to paint!

[@tutubeater1]

Dana, this is brilliant! I've shared it with several groups on FB. Thanks :) Awesome paint job btw!

[@WaldoWally]

Perfect timing!! Thank you so much Dana. You rock!

[@AceTaxiaGaming]

Guess what arrived today: my megaset. Awesome video Dana!

[@Valandar2]

Honestly... I should not have to competely change my painting workflow, including using the pretty expensive Speedpaint Medium instead of water. I'm still sticking to Scale75's Instant Color when I want to use a Contrast-like paint.

[@DanaHowl]

agreed, i think the only use case is if someone really really wanted to save the money on paints

[@Dreoni_]

Would be very interested in seeing what other (if any) paint mediums also don't reactivate the speedpaints. Especially if some of the mediums in larger bottles work (e.g. vallejo glaze, AP airbrush, Instant Colors medium,...)

[@DanaHowl]

Good point!

[@Dreoni_]

@@DanaHowl This also just made me realize, can you use acrylic varnishes as mediums?

[@keithburden7191]

I've tried a few different mediums in layers on top of Speedpaint and anything water based will move the SP. I tried Glaze medium, Flow Improver, Matt Varnish and even Decal fix solution. The Matt Varnish held better than most and the Decal solution glooped up pretty much everything. Dana's SP medium method makes so much obvious sense.

[@Dreoni_]

@@keithburden7191 Interesting, Army Painter says that speed paint is a "resin medium solution"

[@rofltube]

@@Dreoni_ varnishes take 12+ hours to cure, so generally no but as far as I understand, yes you could.

[@wadekothmann431]

Just came back to this video again after finally getting some speedpaints to try - so much great advice!

[@Necrontyr121]

Quick question from someone who is somewhat of a novice, couldn't you simply varnish over the speed paint first and then begin your glazes?

[@DanaHowl]

if you want, yes!!! That's the obvious way to do it, I just wanted a solution that would be quicker than varnishing after each coat

[@ironheadedDoF]

Ahhh.. but you have to pick a good varnish, or the varnish itself my reactivate! (rattlecan vs. brush on varnishes)

[@marianrys316]

this break the purpose of the "speed" paints. Mixing the speedpaints with acrylics somehow works also against "speed". I think the main purpose of speedpaints is to paint it quick without considering to bring depth to the miniture - e.g. make armies of minis tabletop-ready to play, nothing more.

[@tqk1976]

@@marianrys316 Speedpaints work great for making armies ready quickly. But they also work great for just cutting a few steps out of layering colors on a miniature. But then there might still be a bit of layering or highlighting you still want to do afterward and that's where this technique comes in handy. It's pretty much just whatever you want to use it for. Personally, I like the fact that it works great for getting a mini table ready in a fraction of the time, or for letting you rapidly get a miniature ready to be taken to the next level. Maybe I've watched too much Alton Brown, but I think products that multi-task are always better than ones that only do a single task :)

[@WhatsleftofTom]

@@marianrys316 I think the point is that you can use them in multiple different ways; they obviously also seem to work well as richly coloured glazes in addition to quick one coat paint jobs

[@Wijkert]

Thanks for the update Dana! Good stuff! One of the selling points of the Speedpaints is the price, but having to use the medium to prevent reactivation does lesten the "good value" argument a bit.

[@kartchner7]

thank you so much for all the tips and tricks. i came to a similar conclusion for using the speed paint medium to dilute the base color paints into a highlight for some speed paints. of course, clumisly and not anywhere near as effective as i see you do! thank you so much for posting all these great videos!

[@toogreytogame]

Oh wow! I'd completely forgotten that I'd been through the reactivation issue previously when using chipping medium. I did the same thing, I used medium to replace water when brushing on the coat over the chipping medium. As you said, so obvious when you think about it.

[@keithburden7191]

Exceptional discovery Dana. I've been adding VJ Glaze medium to highlights on top of Speedpaint and I was able to blend down into the reactivated SP, but I'll definitely glaze with SP medium for more controlled highlights and washes. Thanks for your hard work and a beautiful looking display model 👏👏👌👌🖌️

[@keithburden7191]

Following up on this the method 6 months ;). It works...but not 100%. Stronger pigments still move/bleed and applying decals is still difficult over Speedpaint. :(

[@gregmccormack5709]

This is such a great video...... it's like a intro to advanced speedpaint techniques. Thank you so much for putting this out I've already referenced the great ideas in it many times.

[@DanaHowl]

My pleasure! I hope to do an updated version of this video soon as I feel I've learned even more since then!

[@graemehughes3153]

Great job. Try turning the model upside down to paint the other eye. Works for me

[@DanaHowl]

I'll try that!

[@ZombieApocalypse09]

Looks really great! Amazing what you can achieve with just a bottle of pale sand. Either Rivenstone or Army Painter is going to have to hire you soon.

[@prospero2000usa]

Good to know, thanks! I have this range, but haven't used them yet. I use Valejo brush-on varnishes with GW contrast paints with no issues, but I guess after watching this I'll have to do a test model and see if the Valejo brush-ons reactivate the AP speedpaint. I love brush-on varnishes since I can control the finish of different parts of the model with them.

[@yodhanhunter]

Thank you so much for this! I can’t wait to go try this out on my next models.

[@rohanalmond]

Such a great painterly style, a totally different approach that I will definitely try to use

[@mattsanders8467]

So so so talented. Amazing paint job.

[@severalwhitespaces]

Gosh, that one turned out nice. Well done. Thanks also for the speed paint highlighting technique, it's obvious in retrospect, but I wouldn't have thought to do it.

[@jamesfisher5930]

Yeah these are awesome solutions. Making the highlight color by mixing pale sand (pro acryl ivory in my case) and the speed paint used worked great and I am now really able to make my models just pop a bit more when using the under painting technique with some selective additional highlights. Worked wonders with the cloud burst blue which dried way darker than I thought.

[@nazteeb]

Awesome! I haven’t tried the speedpaint medium yet but I defo will now.

[@kingbobb007]

Thank you for making this. I find that much like Contrast paints, Speed Paints can be a wonderful tool with just a little work learning how best to handle them. Treating them like any other paint is going to lead to frustration

[@greatsouthernancientminiat8812]

Thanks for the video. Ssing your idea I mixed some Vallejo Deck Tan w speedpaints to drybrush over the initial speedpainted coat. Worked well.

[@petervlasta5419]

Thank you so much for your really helpful video. Now I just need some time for painting again.

[@KingsRetreat]

Great discovery & video! This reactivation workaround sold me on the range.

[@stevekirkby6570]

Awesome ... but it takes the 'speed' out of speed paints LOL. Nevertheless, as I say, just an awesome piece of work. If you had to paint with cow manure I reckon you would make it look exquisite :)

[@hyosworld109]

Wow! If I hadn't seen it, I would find it hard to believe speed paints did that! Thanks for showing what they are actually capable of!!

[@lt.branwulfram4794]

Recently, I’ve been getting back into Raven Guard via the Horus Heresy and have been considering the switch from GW Contrast Paints to Army Painter Speed Paints. The way I paint black armour is more involved than just a Grey Seer and Black Templar affair, glazing on a bit of Ultramarines Blue for some richness and complexity and when considering the transition, the issue of rehydration always enters my mind so this vid was helpful.

[@leroybrady4288]

Awesome mini! Love the tutorial!

[@ralfsstuff]

Why is everyone complaining about reactivation? Speedpaints are supposed to be used in quick 1-layer paintjobs. Just don't use them if that's not the kind of paintjob you want. And if you still insist on using these for stuff they weren't designed for, just use Varnish in between layers.

[@billysmith337]

Great video, beautifully painted well presented.

[@thelonelybolter8245]

lovely paint job, thanks for the tips!

[@elzarees279]

You are a paint-wizard and a color-scholar ☺️ thank you for this ❤️

[@benjaminjack867]

Excited to try this technique on some skin!

[@krusty1796]

So your solution is APSP medium. That intriguing since Goobertown made a video where APSP medium is reactivating the paint and striping off the whole paint job with pure medium.

[@myoung4997]

This is really helpful - thanks for posting!

[@tomgallant9253]

This video just solved every issue I had...Cant thank you enough!

[@GabrielRodriguez-oe9li]

Haven’t painted minis in years. I saw AP speed paints at the store and was hesitant. Wanted to research before buying. Ended up hearing a lot about “reactivation”. Found this video, and I decided to give it a shot. Bought the paints and experimented with acrylics over speedpaint and it reactivated. I used the speedpaint medium with regular acrylics and was able to layer over it. Thanks for this video! Subscribed.

[@MGC-XIII]

That end result though! The leather look so good!

[@billcurran7210]

Thanks for the tips, these are fantastic!

[@charleslatora5750]

subbed. you have fantastic skills. I got the beginning set of the speed paints but I haven't tried them yet. very thankful I waited for this video. slightly intimidated. I only really got into the miniatures building painting playing since the beginning of the year so I'm very new to all this. anytime I try something new that's another level of semi-anxiety until oh I can do this. I am learning to love Army Painters Shades paint. my painting skills are pretty horrendous. I have even dabbled in making terrain. I have some female Orc figures to add to my Orc clan, and some Ral Partha metal (primed) female warrior figures that I'll be painting soon. I want them ready for my next human incursion into my Orcland. again great vid.

[@fallstar7013]

That's a beautiful paint job!

[@BelieveYouCanPaint]

This is a game changer. Go try this Dana is underselling how big this is. She has changed everything!

[@SupermegaGchan]

Excellent paint job on an excellent model!

[@frankcalabretta8710]

Been experimenting with them and the only things I DIDN'T try was mixing them together or using the medium (which I forgot I had). Thanks for doing the heavy lifting for me!

[@RealJahzir]

Awesome, this was exactly what I was looking for

[@martinouellet3540]

This is so helpful! Thanks a lot!

[@markgnepper5636]

Great stuff friend 👏 👍

[@WillCastillotheninjaverse]

Thank you for this!

[@joshbecka6110]

This title…perfection

[@DanaHowl]

thank u!

[@bignosebrett1521]

Thank you, some handy tips for sure

[@GamemasterGiff]

I've been using a few of these techniques using AP speedpaint and pale sand and the whole time thinking, "Dana Howl would approve"

[@hughmac7423]

Cool video. I just brought the Speed Paints and this will help with using them.

[@kraftybrigitte]

OMG thank you thank you thank you Dana!!!!! I was using the speedpaint and then varnishing before applying acrylic paint. You just solved my problem…. Can you work on world peace next, lol!!!!

[@freelancerblitz2579]

love the tip for highlighting speedpaints!

[@Lumpsack]

Really useful tips, thank you

[@danesdogma4322]

thank you so much for this! i lost confidence in my new speed paints because of this exact property.

[@pecktec]

Ahh why didn’t I think of that thanks subbed !

[@mo_dakka]

As someone getting serious...about painting green dudes...and interested in speedpaints, this is so helpful. Thanks!

[@sarawelling5271]

Brilliant. Thank you.

[@heuristes]

Beautiful !

[@johnlanger7852]

that is a great job on Scott's mini

[@ThimblewolfArt]

Great video. I'd love to see more dnd minis.

[@emchamberlain]

Nailed it again Dana.

[@justinvenable917]

This is great. Now I'd like to hear your take on fixing mistakes with speedpaints. And also if you would use a sky blue for working in blue tones so they don't turn green.

[@73cwalton]

Sorry, but this made me belly laugh so much. If you have to do this much work and experimenting to “fix” these issues, it sounds like it’s just a cheap poor quality product.

[@justinvenable917]

@@73cwalton Are you a painter? If so, can you honestly say you've never made an errant brush stroke? And have you not ever experimented with a new paint additive, to see if it would work for you or not? Maybe you misunderstood because you don't practice the craft.

[@73cwalton]

Oh, I practice the craft. What made me laugh is the that a product that never fully cures and can still bleed though other layers of paint is just not a great product. You can wrestle with it all you like or you could just find a product that works without the hassle. Enjoy your painting.

[@justinvenable917]

@@73cwalton I have an airbrush, so can do the varnish step to seal them in. So that's not that big of an issue for me. I'd just rather not take that step if I can avoid it, and I think Dana is exploring ways of avoiding that step. That's why I'm interested in what else she is discovering.

[@clintseppowitz5642]

So if this is the solution - just using the AP medium for thinning - then I am gonna try those paints. Thanks for pointing out!

[@itusmalditus]

muchas gracias por los consejos!!

[@fateweaver9844]

I have never thinned Speed paints with water. I use W&N Flow Improver. Never had reactivation issues. If I'm not in a hurry I will also just let the speed paints cure for a while. The problem with any paint, even normal acrylics, is that water can reactivate them before full cure is achieved. Remember, dry to the touch =/= fully cured. Ideally each layer should get 8 hours dry time but obviously that's not realistic unless it's going to be a display only piece.

[@tabletoppdx]

GENIUS!

[@pjsines4705]

I can see that being used for art on a MTG card! Well done!!

[@TheBunnan]

Great tip! Like with like sounds obvious once it's pointed out, but it needs to be pointed out to make it obvious :)

[@crankypest2617]

Thank you for this idea. I want to just use speed paints for knocking out large groups of troops this will help a bunch! Subbed for a lot of your ideas great channel.

[@eastoforion]

the slightly mottled look of the speedpaints made the leather looks amazing!

[@RSOULIER75]

Thanks for the video it is beautiful

[@scottfekete2982]

this is what i like to see is other painters sponsoring each other

[@timread8448]

I think that many are missing the point with speed paint... they are designed to knock out armies quickly not to do the amazing blending etc you are doing..no blending no reactivation issues. I think they are amazing for what they are designed to do.

[@TeeeCeee]

Great painting. Can't see reason for using this paints, but breaking paradigm how miniatures are painted is awesome.

[@wanttobeprivate7466]

The main thing I've learned and used heavily since getting speed paints, is *underpainting* the speed paints. It works incredibly well on metallics as it tamps down some of the excess/grainy look metallics can have and provides a shimmery range of hues. A second technique I would recommend only on smaller (space marine or battle mech sized) models, is once you have your primary paint and speed paint on the model, coat the entire thing like you're doing a wash except using speed paint, with the color you'd like it to be washed in, to get a 'mother color' effect - THEN (and this part felt crazy the first few times I did it *but it works*) - dunk it in water. Just a second. Pull it out and use a big brush with lots of absorbency, and gently sweep all over the model to get the now runny outside layer of speed paint off. No pressure needed - the layer you just applied will absorb right into the brush, but it will leave the layers underneath still intact, and leave a trace of tint on the flat panels and large surfaces while still running into the cracks to create a VERY clean wash. Watch for pooling of course, but I have painted a number of battle mechs and found this way more reliable at preventing coffee staining compared to a traditional wash, especially since applying a water based wash over speed paint would reactivate. You will want a paper towel and a clean cup of water to clean the brush frequently, and you will probably get some on your hands (dunking in water will, of course, cause it to run), but speed paint cleans off easy, due to water solubility.