I Hate Motorbikes! Why can't I fix this F...ing Yamaha V-Max. The Misery Continues 😞

[@mickperry1935]

Jim, what can I say!! It was worth sending it to you to try but just goes to show that electronics don't age well. As you say you need to get an aftermarket one thats new. I suppose at least you know it definitely is the ECU at fault. Mick.

[@SuperbikeSurgeryTV]

Mick, you are an absolute legend, and I'm very, very grateful to you. My OCD won't let it go, so I've ordered a load of new components. The plan is to have a go at fixing it myself! Thanks again 🙏😁

[@colfergusson4242]

​@SuperbikeSurgeryTV there's still decent humans out there just like this guy 👍 especially in the (UK) motorbike world

[@Zippytie]

I think your gift of the ECU was very generous , theres to much profiting on parts , And in honesty , how many people are going to need a very specific ECU , well done

[@barebonesmc]

@mickperry you are what makes bikers bikers from my POV, old school, you are a gem

[@barebonesmc]

@@SuperbikeSurgeryTV feel a bit cheeky and not Vmax related, but ive been having my own nightmare. never have i had so much trouble doing some brakes. Nighthawk S front caliper rebuild, brakes worked fine but sticky, swapped pistons and seals and all free moving, reverse bled and all seemed fine, but when i mounted them and pulled brake on pistons dont return. on inspection, all pistons are free, but fluid pressure isnt releasing when lever is released. makes no sense to me, any ideas before i strip master cylinder as a last resort? loose bleed nipple and all pistons push in easily, tighten it and as you pish one in it just drives the other (twin piston calipers) out, so fluid is not returning to reservoir somehow.all was working fine before caliper rebuild. any thoughts greatfull cheers

[@leaflee2066]

You have to love some of the armchair experts in the comments especially when the word (just) is used! Despite your pain it's good viewing for us, good luck with part six!

[@julianpalmer4674]

Tin the tip of your iron first to transfer the heat to the solder quicker, then use a solder sucker / pump to remove the majority of the solder. Then go back and use the wick to remove the last bits to tidy it up. You've got some nice custom ceramic controller PCB's there. First thing replace all the electricytic capacitors then a good reflow. You may have enough parts to act a donors to make one.

[@tracyteagarden1746]

I'll fix it for you. All those electrolytics need replaced and there's about enough cold solder joints to sink a ship, but I do have the Yamaha plugs for my ECU test jig

[@ShootingAir]

Observational thoughts: The ECU will work... once the age issue is fixed. That it ran fine initially, till it got hot (and bounced around a little) indicates this. If the component level check and replace is beyond you, ask one of the MANY electronics channels if they'd do a collaboration with you. The 2 I know well enough to spout names are bigclive (near you in Scotland) and Rossman (Texas, US). Even just contacting them for advice will get you even better recommendations if they're unwilling or unable. This is just some time/labor and a few bucks in components...

[@willjacques9573]

To add to the list, youtube @BuyitFixit is very proficient in repairs too, he recently fixed a land rover module, and a tractor dashboard in the past. Might be worth a message!

[@steveclark..]

I thought that Clive was on the IOM rather than Scotland? He's the man for the job though.

[@paul.vanhout57]

Note to self - avoid 40-year old VMax😬

[@thewiltshirerider01]

If every mechanic put this much effort in you are one in a million

[@christianweller4288]

Electrolytic capacitors use a wet insulator internally which dries out over time. Replace with new components. As long as all the semiconductor stuff is ok, it should be repairable.

[@daimonmt]

Sometimes, you can see an intermittent faulty component with a thermal camera as it will increase in temperature as it gets close to the failing point.

[@SuperbikeSurgeryTV]

Really good advice 👍 Somone else mentioned the same thing. I'm not sure why I didn't think of it myself 🤔 👍

[@throbbinhood7867]

Send the ECU to mend it mark, the chap is a wizard with circuit boards and electronics

[@chilli-sauce]

My exact thoughts too!

[@FourIntoOne]

Yep my thoughts too - guy is a legend with this sort of thing

[@markw7997]

Hes proper booked up .

[@Kiz552]

Had similar problems in the past at work, fitted a new I.C.V. injection control valve, engine would not start, as luck has it we have diagnostics software, checked it out, brand new I.C.V. knackered. Good luck on part 6.

[@colinstuart5226]

That sprayed on rubbery gunk has ruined lots of circuits in the few decades since it sent out of fashion - it traps moisture as it deteriorates. Changing these electrolytic capacitors would probably bring it to life - a few have obviously been leaking electrolyte but all should be changed (noting polarity first!) - and don't fanny about with a small soldering iron. Use a big flat bit that can transfer lots of heat very quickly to melt the solder round both pins at the same time and pull the component out. Putting some fresh 60/40 lead-tin solder on first makes things easier. You can muck about with braid to clean out the hole afterwards if you like. Stay well clear of the ICs - they'll most likely be fine but won't like any static discharge.

[@nickrider5220]

This is fascinating Jim, frustrating for you, but this is a proper older bike problem that we stumble on/ get stuck on !

[@mickhooper9152]

I absolutely & thoroughly enjoy your videos! You are every engineer worth their salt, that I've either worked with or met during a lifetime in engineering ! Regards and best wishes Mick

[@jn1k203]

Have you looked inside the red ecu?, might be a clearly visible fault that can easily be repaired in that unit.

[@markw7997]

Im an electronics engineer , bin the board mate i can spot shed loads wrong with that , caps are probably dried out , dry joints gallore .

[@orfen88]

PCB repair shops can fix it no problem. Not cheap but probably cheaper than a new ECU. But then again a new ECU albeit more expensive would make the most logical sense.

[@michaelbull9428]

Recently got back into motorbikes after 47 years lol, love watching this guy, really clever man, didn't know much about bikes before and now I realise I know even less, great videos, keep making them

[@Twinpot1962]

I truly admire your tenacity. Especially as you’re not scared to make a decision.

[@diggy-d8w]

I am the world's foremost armchair warrior...... I hope this fixes things & your Doc gives ya something to ease all the pain. Hell, I can feel it all the way across the pond. I hope this fixes this so you can tell this Tale of Woe as you chuckle. Good luck, peace

[@davefarmery8180]

I like to think that 90% of people that own bike would help if they can , gradually going through all your videos 👍

[@eliotmansfield]

like welding, a top tip for soldering/desoldering big items is to pre-heat the board to stop it sucking all the heat out of your iron

[@stuartmetcalfe547]

I thought on earlier videos, the bike went to a dealer and had the replacement ECU supplied and fitted (the red one) when subsequently Jim found major problems with the carbs. So where is the original ECU that the bike shop changed (perhaps in error). If that ECU is still with the owner surely try to refit that and see what happens now the carbs are sorted. Always worthwhile getting the parts like that when a garage changes them. Great channel. Great education and great content. Stuart

[@SuperbikeSurgeryTV]

Thanks for your comment 👍. You are 100% spot on. I strongly suspect that the original ecu removed by the dealer would work perfectly. The owner of the bike has asked but been told that it was thrown away 🤬

[@johnnyhall7065]

It may have been stolen for someone else's machine, known to them! This has happened to quite a few people over the years.

[@waynep4256]

Should if reworked the soldered joins, plus the one you found that was loose near the beginning. Loving the detail in you videos ❤😊

[@tonygriffiths2485]

After 40 years it more thanlikely requires re capping, i.e. replacing all the caoacitors. You would be definately much better to start to remove the thick solder with a "Solder Sucker" and then use the wick for the lesser parts of solder thickness. This is the same for ALL electronics. It maybe that a couple of caps have burnt out. I would definately mot like to be in your position. You have a very difficult task to hand there ! This is 6 months old now so I'm probably repeating a lot of comments, havent read them to be honest. Good luck though :)

[@kevinwilliams4899]

I bloke I used to work with had a similar problem with a ZZR1100 ecu and at the time couldnt source one in the UK. He found someone in Alton (Hampshire) or somewhere on the M3 corridor. Who went through it and replaced the damaged components one by one, and fixed it for not to much money. But this was around 10 years ago so I don't know if I could find out who now. From what iv'e seen you don't give up great content keep it up.

[@llcoolTN]

This is more exciting than anything. Thank you for brilliant content!

[@richardballinger517]

Noted there was one cap which was pretty furry which ended up with no sleeve on it, but as some others have said. Due to age, replace all electrolytic caps. Unfortunately the acetone has probably desolved the values but use the other ecu for that. Re soldering pins that size. I'd go slightly bigger tip, solder sucker and chemtronics rosin braid. Good Luck.

[@SuperbikeSurgeryTV]

Thanks Mate, I think that's spot-on advice. I've ordered a selection of components, the plan is to change as much as I can and then cross my fingers 😁👍

[@joemartin6775]

Watching your channel in Canada 🇨🇦 , I’m a uk 🇬🇧 Motorcycle Technician, your videos are awesome ! My Canadian wife is learning a new language 😂 , she now feels my pain when working on motorcycles ,! Keep up the awesome work

[@grendel1960a]

as an explanation of the circuit board, parts numbered R something are resistors, Parts numbered C something are capacitors, so those blue and white parts numbered d something are diodes. the chances are that the sudden exposure to electricity took out one of your transistors- they are responsible for the firing signals after all

[@motorbikesandhacks]

It looks very fixable. Reflow the solder in an oven, fix the dry joints, replace the capacitors, replace minor components which are broken. The spark behaviour suggests a crack, dry joint or capacitor where more amps can jump a gap. It's close!

[@MikeHarveyPhoto]

About what I would do

[@99gpandy28]

Yamaha quad diagnosed by mechanic with crook CDI ,I put it in multiple freezer bags ,and held off the bottom of a sauce pan in boiling water 10 mins holding wires and plug ,Immediately put back on quad runner ,Good spark never missed a beat ,Check out my vids of wheelies on Quad to paddock fence line 👍

[@dazdoestip6459]

Might as well change the transistors too, but that's like a side project now

[@shaolinfist8323]

Hardly worth the time better to just buy a new one

[@Bargos1968]

Great effort and love the perseverance, we've all been there! Time to bite the bullet on a new ECU by the sounds of it.

[@harriseppanen5207]

I worked many years for Volvo Cars, we had major problems with ATE ABS ECUs made in Philippines .Our colleagues in UK found the problem with cold soldering and instead of replacing an expensive ECU we had a cheap fix.

[@FourIntoOne]

Collab with Mend it Mark here on youtube. Guy is a legend with exactly this sort of stuff. Seriously.👍

[@tonygriffiths2485]

After 40 odd years it might need re-capping. You really need to find a wiring diagram for that as some of the caps will not reveal their type. If you did that there may well be a chance that only 1 or 2 are faulty. Caps do not like time ! I bet the original looks much the same as well. Rather you than me though ! To clean up after you, it helps to use an old toothbrush, its amazing how well that works.

[@colinstuart5226]

One of the transistors looks like it maybe has a crack in its body. Also there are some Tantalum capacitors, which don't last forever in there. Sometimes they self-destruct with a bang when switched on after a long idle spell. Eminently replaceable.

[@karirautio]

When soldering and you have removed the tin wire from soldering point you should have the iron still there a short time, 1-2 second.

[@grahamhale8844]

Been having a nightmare with my Vmax on 3 then 4 popping backfiring ect cost a fortune then found a older guy who works from home who went though carbs said they were a mess full rebuild he still wasnt happy with it fitted new coils leads ect just picked it up 100% running perfect

[@-DC-]

You need to coat the Carburettors in Copaslip 😉, Really butter it on will run like a treat !

[@warwickscram1656]

Delboy go to sleep.

[@stevenhunter5799]

I tried bleeping out your swearing, but it just ended up sounding like a minibus was reversing down my street 😜 Great channel!! Thank you! 👍

[@SuperbikeSurgeryTV]

Sorry!

[@stevenhunter5799]

🤘

[@steveclark..]

​@@SuperbikeSurgeryTVNo need to apologise in my opinion, swearing is part of human nature, being an adult,.... this channel/content isn't aimed at kids in the first place either.

[@Gg_gorilla_bikes]

Love the swearing! Keep it real!

[@mikeatwill7064]

Love the waffle. Please never change.

[@kevinmurphy724]

Hello jim, I feel your frustration. Couldn't help notice, as you moved the pick initially, you moved a diode next to R51, I know cameras do funny things but I thought I saw a broken track from the pad on the diode when you moved it, left side. Also it occurred to me, if you have a spare ECU you could use parts from the U.S. one to replace any components which may have failed in the one you are repairing. If you need to repair any track, I have some old school tracking wire I can send you some? When I was a lad, we found cutting 1ft lengths of braid and hanging a batch of these in fluid flux, then drying them made a brilliant solder remover. Good luck Kevin

[@BuZZarDFPV]

Flux plus a bigger solder tip, use 420 degree C on the iron temp and you don't have to practice everyday :) Use your carb cleaner to clean the boards. Doesn't damage the component and leaves board spotless.

[@michelbrown1060]

When you did the first fire test, I notice that the sparks were not steady. . .🤔

[@markcropper7182]

acetone wont damage the circuit board or components it looks like there are some diodes that have degraded the ones with one blue line what causes this problem is the capacitors leak there corrosive electroylite and wicks it way through the traces if you could change the diodes and capacitors also check coil driver transistors it looks like there is one with a crack in it i would think this would cure the problem

[@SuperbikeSurgeryTV]

Good advice, thank you 👍 The Transistor did look like it had a crack it it, I agree. I think it was just a bit of conformal coating 🤔 it looked fine after it'd been cleaned. I may just order some components and have a go at a repair 😁

[@daimonmt]

​@@SuperbikeSurgeryTV Hi, I believe you can get parts from RS Components, pitty I am not in the UK, I would have done it for you, and, you did pronounce my name correctly. The bright side is that, being an old ECU, it is simple in its design and you can replace components. Thanks for the update

[@markcropper7182]

@@SuperbikeSurgeryTV i would give it a go if it was my bike i know there is aftermarket replacements but wont be anywhere as good as a repaired original unit good luck i think that you are more than capable of doing it is there any parts in the flea bay unit still good

[@MrGaryjames1]

theres a company called carmo electronics uk that does a repair service for these and also a replacement upgraded ecu the test and repair isnt that expensive but for my money i would buy the upgraded replacement

[@michelbrown1060]

My old XJ developped a canon syndrom. . . the rpm would swing badly , loosing fire and exploding out. .. . A frenchman told me, if all wire is sound. . redo all the solder on the circuit plate, , The big one has a curious dark aura around the center. .. . when I went for a test ride, the vibration came in at 5500 rpm instead of 4500. . 😊and no more canon sound in the back. .

[@lucybrown-nd1cf]

Work back from the ecu terminal for the ignition on the bad cylinder to it's mosfet using ohms on your meter, change it out because it might just be the problem.

[@xenolard]

Ball like components are diodes. One of the transistors looks cracked. I’d probably replace them and see what happens

[@wippy748s]

check the components on the pick up sensor input for that cylinder , sounds like a dry joint as it will only fire when the revs are high, those sensors produce a stronger signal at higher revs and can jump the connection, it if was faulty on the output side then it would not work at all

[@Kevster270]

Looks like electrolytic capacitors that have spilled their guts over time. The electrolyte in them causes a ton of corrosion, which is what you're seeing on the components around them. It will take a good bit of work to strip off the conformal coating, but once that is done you can replace the big capacitors with new ones (make sure you match the values printed on the side) and check for any corroded copper traces on the PCB itself and rebuild with wire connections if needed, should run good as new

[@602Sean]

You gotta love an Ikea roasting tin. Best bit of kit in my garage.

[@peterpearce8867]

I hate electronics! With mechanicals you can see what’s broken, worn, or not fitted correctly… electronics are just a heap of inanimate objects to me… :(

[@ZAMsChannel]

Don't give up. This circuit is repeated 4 times at the board, with comparative measurements you may be able to fix it. But, as you do that job for living and not as hobby (like me), you may not want to put more time into it, what I would fully understand. However as I would like to have a VMAX as well, it was very interesting for me to see all of this.

[@ThomasMoore.1]

What a mammoth task. Fascinating stuff though. Thanks for going down the rabbit hole Jim

[@markmiller5577]

I never want it to end ....££££

[@joaoxufre9296]

👍For Michael

[@Nowherenotime]

Look for leaking caps , replace as required . Make sure transistors are good , not grounded . This will take a bit,

[@stefanbrown8176]

Also if you have a thermal camera id be checking that ecu when its plugged in, because if your saying these runs fine then gives up it shouts something is getting hot

[@KarlGrewcock]

I hope you sort that v max out. It's official that the problem is a pain in the ass for you and the owner. But please keep the videos playing as they are knowledgeable to a 125 rider . Keep up the great work 👍👍👍

[@vidvidbiker]

Really enjoying this series. My experience is with HDs Evos which are easy to convert to points ignition and run very well on them. I presume a VMax cannot be easily converted? - Just a thought on checking that ECU board - if you have a music Hi Fi repair shop close to you those guys are a whiz at finding faults in circuits, irrespective of their end use. Looking forward to part 6 - that VMax got you another subscriber😎.

[@matthewharmer1656]

Any old tv repair shops near you? Maybe they could help?

[@briandarnell5966]

I hate v max thet are so hard to get right. Good luck with the diagnosis looking forward to part 6.😊

[@Marineprosw]

Ignitech make a replacement TCI box that I believe may replace this. It's computer programmed to setup the pick ups and ignition. But I've had a similar situation and this really was the only way to guarantee that I had an ' Actually Working " TCI.

[@allanweseman5433]

Years ago, it was major problems with the engine or transmission that sent cars to the junkyard. Today is is the ELECTRONICS that are no longer available after the 10 year mark or before. I suspect this will come full circle to the motorcycle business

[@jcb208]

Any decent electronics shop should be able to refurb that board, it is not corroded, reflow and replace faulty parts which are pretty basic on that board

[@71Habu]

If the electrolytic capacitors looked that bad, I would have replaced them all. Any signs of them leaking, like the crude built up on the ones in your video was a sure sign they were leaking. Once they start, there’re no good. Sounds like an age problem with all of them. When I was a printed circuit repair technician, I had a soldier sucker so I could get a complete removal of the soldier. Also there some of those resisters need to be replaced. I wouldn’t suspect the transistors because they are pretty bullet proof.

[@Gg_gorilla_bikes]

Nice to see dursley on the package address. Spent time there when i lived in the uk and still have friends there 😊

[@haroldpeperkamp2030]

Hang on, when you first probed it with that pick you touched on a loose soldering. Check your video! Around 17:30 in something moved.

[@nigelwilson8331]

No one ever got shot for trying.😅.you certainly earn yout money.keep the vids coming jim...

[@Davidcristophstopherson]

I haven't had chance to watch the video all the way through, so sorry if you have done this. Check those blue bead tantalum capacitors, I think one is C25. They are very prone at this age to go short circuit. I hate the sight of the damn things.

[@fizzyridertoo]

This is a very simple board. It looks like single layer with lots of large, discrete components. The blue/grey devices are diodes and easy to replace. This is not a surface mount board and a decent tech will have no issues fixing it.

[@danielrogers7138]

Oh Mate I’ve never seen a pristine component like that on the outside look so disreputable internally. It must have been subjected to a high temperature or high humidity for a long time. PC boards don’t like heat or vibration or other environmental stresses. Automobile ecu’s eventually break down too. Someone should produce a bullet-proof box for motorbikes or else switch back to points and condenser. Best thing to do would be to put this problem aside and go for a sweet ride on some country lanes to reset yourself. Come back with a fresh mind and have another go at solving the problem. Best of luck!

[@steveclark..]

I agree, there's certainly a charm to bikes without fancy electronics, my 1983 bike doesn't have points sadly but the early electronic ignition systems are basic compared to this.

[@Pentode3000]

Acetone is fine, the problem is you are washing away all the faulty spots too which were clearly visible before the wash. All electrolytic and tantalum capacitors have to go after this many years. The fluid in those leaking out eats the parts nearby and the board itself. The caps probably dried out during storage and when recharged they failed shortly and took out the ECU. This should be repairable for an expert. It's a matter fo calculation.

[@cozydram1]

hi Chap I'm half way through this video......and I'm not fed up with this series....I do feel for you on it........I must have missed can this part not be reordered from Yam........ok continuing now......

[@petermosdell580]

Random thought Jim. Could you try the ECU from the other VMax ? Maybe a different part number but how different could it be ? It could just be a different component or chip programme. Got to be worth a go for the time it would take 😉

[@fredblogsmac.5697]

is the only answer to go back to contact points, just like the old spare system if that's even possible

[@motorcyclegarage2307]

You get the impression that as it ran so well. Then went bad , could be regulator rectifyer blowing things on the ecu. Or crank position sensor.

[@SuperbikeSurgeryTV]

Thanks for the comment 👍 Crank signals are perfect, I've checked multiple times with a scope. The charging system is also perfect.

[@motorcyclegarage2307]

@@SuperbikeSurgeryTV just things that have caught me put before when it's such a difficult fault to locate. The work you are doing on the ecu is very interesting and bold.

[@cabbage681]

Really interesting seeing whats inside the black box of mysterious goings on. My old Harley has points and a condenser so I can replace my ignition system for 10 quid in 10 mins and that thing looked like it came from a space ship and NASA might have to be contacted for repairs.

[@steveclark..]

Never A Straight Answer,...the organisation that tells us that they lost their blue prints on the tech that put man on the moon. Yeah right, along with all the other aspects that clearly don't add up, I'm convinced that the whole moon landing were faked.

[@steveharvey20]

The left transistor looks like its got a massive crack top to bottom on it. You'll definately sharpen up your soldering skills on this one!😂

[@Myrussell67]

My anxiety hit 10 looking at that board under the microscope.

[@johnbruland3861]

40 year old capacitors are probably dry as Sahara, and pretty much useless. But I would consider changing out all of the coil packs. (Even if they test good) Something is killing the ECU. And if it was voltage in, everything would be dead. The only thing remaining then, is coils.

[@peterreeton6051]

whats happed to the fuel pump there should be a clicking sound from it when you switch it on with kill switch in run position,i have had a vmax for 10 years before

[@SuperbikeSurgeryTV]

I'm not using the pump, just gravity feeding the carbs.

[@evanjohn503]

if only you were a professional KZbinr you could merch him a t-shirt/mug/gloves/hoodie etc etc etc Always good to watch, cheers

[@steenlassen5718]

Have a look at Vectric CDI replacement. CDIs do not stand the abuse of time and moist.

[@firestorm755]

Now you've got a reasonable ECU does it run well from cold again? I think you need to send it to a specialist for a refurb

[@trapdoorspider9211]

I wonder if denso does something for it. My farther has a UK 2005 vmax1200 limited edition in raven black. 2007 in the states

[@xxl531]

There is a v max specialist in Holland they maybe have parts i see if i can fond the name of the company

[@leeandjancruise]

There seems to be more than one, just Googled 'V max specialist in Holland'.

[@geraldfitzgibbon7428]

Jim u are the bull. Love ur chanel and all the work u do. The chap who sent u the icu is also the bull. He is a good skin. Well done to ye both. Lookin fwd to part 6

[@mickleblade]

20.11 is that a burn spot on the FET?

[@ianflynn2353]

You could get a tv repair shop to repair the board or replace it

[@acvn-hg9gy]

Its a pretty easy board to fix it seems. Only the microboards are hard-ish; how awesone would it be to "build" your own ECU? 😉

[@Bandit19990]

is there some aftermarket upgraded ecu you can buy? maybe get the circuit board to an expert? other than that no ideas. gl

[@WilliamHolcak]

Love your videos you are the bomb wish there was more mechanics like you cheers

[@alexmegyeri3050]

So did you get a new ecu and get it running?😊

[@captaintoyota3171]

That ecu could be fixed but needs lots of resistors and capacitors replaced

[@martinowl]

Sadly, I can see this type of issue being commonplace in years to come.

[@ringo196]

Have you rang BB Reman in Rochester doesn't cost anything to ask ?

[@richnorris1061]

I’ve got a virago and it’s been fighting me since I got it :-) some of them do put up a fight

[@robinfowler9477]

difficult to tell from video but some of those capacitors look swollen or leaking? a hifi repair shop may be able to advise.

[@adrianbowen314]

Perhaps a Collab with "my mate Vince"?

[@ianlawrie919]

So mind contorting for you but as you say, super watching 👏👌👍

[@dereklucas8420]

Need to send it to the KZbinr Mend it Mark