I Made a Battery Spot Welder from an Old Microwave and Excessive Mahogany

Tools and Things:
Stepcraft CNC: www.stepcraft....
3D Printer: amzn.to/3E9jXge
Solder Breadboard: amzn.to/3DWLfX1
Solid State Relay: amzn.to/3hdRYlD
Arduino Starter Kit: amzn.to/3BTT1it
Arduino Uno: amzn.to/3yWY2oq
Info:
Original Instructables: www.instructab...
My Arduino Sketch: pastebin.com/q...

[@rilsinbee]

shout out for making something that so perfectly gives off that vibe of "i found this in my grandpas old shop and have no idea what it is but it seems scary"

[@jeffmathews4533]

you mean like the arc welder i inherited from my grandfather that has cloth covered wires?

[@mgkleym]

What you want for your welder's cables is funnily enough called Welding Cable. It uses much finer strands then typical wire and EPDM or neoprene insulation for greatly improved flexibility. FYI it is also great for use in high power rv dc power systems because it's much easier to route and work with in confined spaces.

[@johncoops6897]

You can also use silicone cable from eBay etc (maybe 8GA?), car jumper cables, or the wire they use for high power audio amplifiers. The silicone cable from eBay will be the most flexible (by far).

[@Moonsauc3]

@@johncoops6897 I agree. Probably much cheaper. The key is using oxygen free copper or ofc with silicone insulation. Stay away from copper clad aluminum or ccl, it will also usually be cheaper than the ofc

[@johncoops6897]

@@georgec1979 - Don't be so silly. This is very low frequency AC so _"Electron flow happens primarily on the surface of the wire strands"_ is just rubbish. Where do people pick up this idiotic ideas, Audiofool Forums? EDIT TO ADD: At 60 Hz in copper, the skin depth is about 8.5 mm. So, unless each *strand* in the cable is greater than 17mm (about 3/4") the skin effect is totally irrelevant.

[@johncoops6897]

@@Moonsauc3 - no need to worry about "Oxygen Free" or similar marketing rubbish. Plain old copper is what you need - oxygen is useful stuff in the air you breathe, but isn't significant in power cables. The conductivity of common C11000 Copper (ETP) and higher-cost C10200 oxygen-free (OF) Copper is identical. The extremely expensive C10100 grade OFC used in cryogenics is only 1% higher conductivity (insignificant)

[@Moonsauc3]

@@johncoops6897 it's not the conductivity that I was concerned about, it's about the rigidity of the wire itself. The ccl is much more stiff than pure copper. Plus it doesn't break as easily over time.

[@HAunderscoreVE]

''Honey where is our microwave?'' ''Funny you mention that, actually...''

[@Loosehead]

Hot in here, or is it just me...

[@batterybuilding]

Just swap out the welding tips for skewers and instant kabob cooker!

[@Rudy97]

He put it back and waited for someone to use it and discover it don't work. Then he just went out and bought another one. They will never know.

[@KSKaleido]

Spot welder go BZZZZT

[@johnkaplun9619]

"I'm using it"

[@RestorationStation]

"Transformers are electromancy" *Proceeds to build and program a solid state arduino controlled curcuit capable of handling a massive amount of current supplied by a basic single phase step-down transformer that works on the very first try*

[@joshnabours9102]

That is technomancy. Technomancy is totally different from EElectromancy.

[@Gcrilla]

Technically, it's controlling the primary which isn't a massive amount of current. But it is indeed wizardry

[@kmoecub]

@@Gcrilla It's not even controlling the primary. It's controlling the relay that is controlling the primary. Much like an ogre, electrowizardry has layers.

[@timtech2008]

The machine spirit wills it today -Random Adeptus Mechanicus

[@jakebaker8210]

Black box theory my dude

[@zaqway]

Hey Robert, I have looked through your arduino code and I think it might be worth adding a safety feature to it. Currently, you're checking if the button is pressed on every loop of the program and activating the relay if that is the case. So if you hold the button pressed in all the time, the relay will activate again and again on every loop of the program. As a result, if you set the activation time low enough and/or don't release the button quickly enough, the relay will activate multiple times. You might want to add some code, to check if the button had been released and pressed in again, so it would only activate the relay once for every button press. Might save you from burning up the connections you want to spot weld and save you from a fire, in case the button gets stuck pressed in. Anyway, great project, you might have convinced me to try it myself. There have been times when I wished I had a battery spot welder, but not often enough to go out and actually buy one and I've been hesitant to make it myself.

[@kaizenbob6693]

if(isButtonPressed()) { activateRelay(300); //hard coded during development delay (500); //debounce delay while (isButtonPressed()) { //this while loop hangs until the button is released for the next activation // Do nothing } } }

[@NatetheAceOfficial]

5:30 - You learned tolerances! Hurray! The worst part about taking your beautiful CAD model and bringing it into the real world.

[@Entarra]

The real world is a jerk..

[@Cemi_Mhikku]

@@Entarra Meatspace is worst space.

[@TheStuartstardust]

Actually also tuning a 3D printer can be a pain in the ash. Filament and slicing settings can offset even more than the tolerances in normal substraction manufacturing

[@timabel280]

for the size of those copper chop sticks i would have just given each side a skim with the grinder rather than printing a new one.

[@deefdragon]

With how fancy of a box Robert made for his spot welder, I cant wait to see the box that he makes for his batteries!

[@I_am_Allan]

That's gonna be Sandalwood with Yew Wood accents. 🤣🤣🤣

[@kir0nz]

If he makes it out of wood maybe we can get to see some of the magic smoke. If there's tung/linseed oil it'll be extra coochy.

[@FurryWrecker911]

I am here from the future! He hated it, so he did the Robert thing and made an even more complicated one out of metal and acrylic! :D

[@stevenemert837]

Until 9:15 I was wondering where the mahogany in the title was going to be used. Awesome spot welder! Amazing how we now typically use Arduinos where we used to use a simple 555 timer or even a single transistor with an r-c circuit to time it. But then, it wouldn't have worked the first time.

[@sugarbooty]

Having precise control of the timing is nice, although analog has a certain charm to it

[@adriansue8955]

Seems like wasteful overkill to me.....

[@plainedgedsaw1694]

@@sugarbooty u also don't have to spend day reprogramming shit if it blows up.

[@sugarbooty]

@@plainedgedsaw1694 it would take me 10 or 20 minutes to program something this simple, and if it blows up its probably not the microcontrollers fault

[@plainedgedsaw1694]

@@sugarbooty I meant the scenario in which the uC would get blown up, both more expensive and time consuming to repair than just swapping socketed 555 or smtg.

[@bazzatron9482]

"Excessive Mahogany" - it's interesting to see the different region KZbinrs with their different locally available excessive species. In the vague hope that you'll see this - I just thought I should mention that your regular channel is not featured on this channel! I actually came for the woodworking content and now suddenly I'm watching a guy deconstruct a bus, but it took me months until the algorithm told me about the other channel!

[@petermiddo]

I came for the bus and only found out about this channel because Robert mentioned his "other channel", ie this one. Even then I had to search for it.

[@BurleyBoar]

The audio edit about 4 minutes in, with the sound of it being on only stopping when you touched the transformer, but you had it unplugged the entire time, is pure genius. Thank you for being you and trusting us enough sharing it.

[@mibars]

Cool, I've used a wine bottle box and instead of cutting the core I've sawed off one end of high voltage coin and pushed it out. For the switch I've used a "wall mounted" 230V spring loaded light/doorbell switch bolted to a plank so that I can operate it with a foot.... Although I've never made a spot welder head, instead I've used it to heat wire to cut Styrofoam. And for melting stuff :)

[@nyetloki]

FYI those switches are not designed for inductive loads AFAIK.

[@mibars]

@@nyetloki And what's a classic door bell if not an electromagnet pulling the bell hammer? But sure, these are drawing milliamps so wear of the contacts is minimal. On the other hand same switch design, lacking only a spring is used for light switches and some lights, e.g. linear fluorescent are inductive loads.

[@nyetloki]

@@mibars you think a common doorbell switch is made to handle 1400W inductive loads?

[@mibars]

@@nyetloki That's a tricky question because the switch is rated for 10 A with no mention of type of load. That switch, in a regular light switch variant which only lacks a spring could be used to switch dozens of linear fluorescent tubes with magnetic ballasts which will be below 10 A, but would be definitely an inductive load. I think it would wear out prematurely.

[@gregbarnett9272]

Building cool stuff while exercising self deprecation at the highest level. Awesomeness

[@joelpeterson3894]

Your edit on cutting the box joints is my favourite part.

[@jkob_k0452]

I really love how over-under-over-engineered this project is!

[@neogator26]

Best "how to" on these DIY welders I've seen.

[@davidmcclellan4621]

I see you're flaunting your KZbinr wealth with all that copper! As others have mentioned, we're here for the fabricobbling!

[@NatetheAceOfficial]

Make that switch button into a foot switch! You'll really like having a free hand. 13:37 - You will desire!

[@alexvonchamporcin3668]

he could make a handle with the button on it and literally weld with it lol

[@TheStuartstardust]

@@alexvonchamporcin3668 - yes, he did not protect in the code against re-triggering, so actually possible! 🤓😁

[@aleksastojanov4033]

I made one a year ago and used it to cobble a 18V 18650 bosch battery for dirt cheap. Almost the exact same setup as yours just it featured a foot switch which i also made from microwave relay from doors lol

[@Ky-lb5ts]

Love the way you approach things and your sense of humour!!

[@luvdub1]

The best part of your videos is just how fearless you are! Thanks for sharing.

[@richardlanglois172]

I like you, you're hilarious. This video was brilliant, thank you. I more-than-half expected the finger-joint cutting montage to turn into a song.

[@MichaelEdelman1954]

We used to say that the most dangerous thing in the world is a programmer with a soldering iron… and that was before people started tearing apart microwave ovens. Nice job!

[@bebopwing1]

Oh man, this is giving me flashbacks. I used to work at Batteries Plus store, and we would rebuild battery packs for customers. Most of the time it was things like odd drill pack batteries which are just a bunch of Sub-C's spot welded together. Our machine had a foot lever lever that that would lower the probe and trigger it; I swear it had a bicycle pedal on it. I don't know why, but there was some finesse to it, if you pressed down too hard you would "pop" the weld. You're set up with the trigger looks much easier!

[@johnarizona3820]

RE ripping that board vertically on the bandsaw, well done & hilarious! hahahaha

[@ao2528]

The joy of making useful tools, I also enjoy making tools by myself instead of buying them if I can make that happen, so thanks to you for that, I have all the necessary parts and going to start as soon.

[@jeankelly2011]

Great content. I specially liked the notice at the end saying that the most important thing is the spot welder itself, and not the fancy box and all the tools needed to build it. People often do not make difference between a KZbin channel and real life.

[@Wordsnwood]

Segfaults... That is one seriously nerdy shirt. Respect.

[@alexcrouse]

I had no idea you were a professional level wood worker. Fantastic work!

[@torresalex]

If you had half as much fun doing it as we had viewing it, you had a lot of fun indeed!

[@stridervanmeter8409]

I'm getting some real Mattias Wandel vibes from the woodworking, I love it.

[@ptrkmr]

First “safe” one of these I’ve seen. Nice job

[@gabrielcordo130]

I love your bench mounted bandsaw

[@harlequintheserpent7016]

Cutting out the box joints reminded me of the song Doubt by Delphic Also, brushed vacuum headers for CNC machines don't last all that long and don't look nice for most of their life cycle. When they get all messed up just replace them with stiff enough silicone sheets spliced near the bottom - works perfectly and stays decent for years.

[@dannymac653]

Well, if you hadn't gone that fancy with the woodworking, then you couldn't have posted it to your woodworking channel! I love it, what a great device you made and you survived to upload the tale!

[@TheAwfulInternet]

Safety note about solid state relays. They always pass voltage! Not an issue with 2v, but when I used one to control the heater on an electric hot tub I was introduced to 240vac several times. Mind you it's in the single digit milliamps but still not fun.

[@anthonyjackson280]

If the load is 240VAC (in North America) you would need 2 SSR's, 1 in each power lead to isolate the load as there would be a path through the load (presumably resistive heat elements) to the unswitched line. With 240VAC, (sometimes called 2 phase) there is 115VAC to ground on each line.

[@TKevinBlanc]

Can't wait to hear you merge CNC router, the router table, drill, and brad nailer into a rhythmic symphony. Great job!

[@squeakers27]

I like how it's called the 'Zip-Zap' yet looks like a professional modern but tasteful well made box haha.

[@Ioughtaknowbetter]

You are absolutely correct having it work the first time is an amazing feeling. Nicely done!

[@TheDistur]

CNC, 3D printing. This is getting fancy! Have fun with the welder!

[@UltramaticOrange]

Congrats on being featured by HAD!

[@gbestwick]

If you want to go Super Fancy with your power cords, you can get IEC power cord (think "computer power cord") receptacles off of a bunch of different things, and the hole shape is cad file is easy to find.

[@James02876]

Making things that make things are my favourite things to make.

[@spunkmire2664]

Nice. I didn’t see a fuse in there. Hope ya got one! I’d feel bad if I didn’t say anything

[@rookturner1032]

10:14 sounds like the intro to an 80's song

[@sgas]

thx for talking about the simplification of it like not needing arduino and stuff

[@jurekajzer]

As an ex-Yugoslavian ... that Yugo logo :D ... props

[@magpieblue]

I love watching you build and make things, and especially happy for you having success early on. You've made a nice workshop and some great creations come out of it. Absolutely love your attitude and personality. Nice job on the spot welder and good luck for the next stage :)

[@ClaudeSac]

No comment. Just a +1. But a real, a heartfelt +1 .... lovely.

[@KillroyWasHere86]

Microwave parts can be used to build spot welders, BBQ tazers and Stargates.

[@markchriestenson3257]

I'm so glad he didn't over engineer the case or anything else in his build! xD Glad it worked and that his wife got a new microwave.

[@petermiddo]

That's not a given.....

[@ariztotelez007]

Super super nice episode !! Here you get different elements, such as electronics, some data coding, welding current, and wood work. Stop saying you're an idiot, because you are not. I look forward to more such episodes, it's fun and you are very skilled, and now I have to work on my own projects... .. and as before, fantastic video editing!

[@Dis-Emboweled]

Barbeque taser, my new most favorite phrase

[@Youtubeguy543]

You got the idea from an Instructable? Holy cow, what a throwback

[@ChrisHornberger]

LOL Heirloom spot welder. omg, that's amazing.

[@kaizenbob6693]

Thank you for the code. Love the clever wit.

[@1986MarcThulander]

You forgot to add a small electric fan, these transformers can become pretty hot, something to watch out for!

[@AgentOrange96]

This isn't as dangerous as it seems. I don't see any comments *thoroughly* explaining this, so I'll try my best. First, I'd like to discuss the misnomer that it's not the voltage that kills but the current. This is technically correct, but not the full story. It boils down to Ohm's law, which says Current = Voltage ÷ Resistance. These three values are always tied by this relationship. And there are some consequences to this: 1. An open circuit (no connection) will have an infinite resistance. No current will flow and a power supply will be at its max voltage. Here we see 2V. 2. A short circuit will have no resistance. Therefore infinite current will flow in theory. Metal is an approximation of a short circuit due to having low resistance. If the power supply cannot keep up, it's voltage will drop to maintain Ohm's law. 3. Due to consequence 2, Robert should have actually measured current while welding. (A short circuit) Not while open. The 10A is probably just due to losses. The real current might be much higher than 600A through metal. 4. The human body is pretty resistive. The exact number will depend on what two points of the body you measure through. But even two points close together on the skin has a high resistance. As such, at 2V, the current is very low. Nowhere near enough to hurt you. At 120V, you can flow enough current to kill depending on where through the body it flows. (Particularly the heart) 5. Due to that, the output is actually less dangerous then the input to that transformer after modification. (NOT before) 6. Still, it makes the metal hot. If you touch it while it's welding or shortly after, you will hurt yourself. Be careful nonetheless! Hopefully this has been educational. Electricity is truly fascinating, and I'm all too happy to spread my knowledge!

[@Gmtail]

This was an epic video because the first part is ripping apart appliances, then we learn about Transformers/magnetism/induction theory(sort of), then we learn programming/electronics and finally we get to do custom wood working 😂😂 You've basically described my garage in a nutshell. 😊😊👍👍

[@VSigma725]

I like how the box jig saw sped up ends up sounding like an 80s synthesizer.

[@IxNxI]

that box was more work than the welder itself but what a beautiful welder box this is!

[@jonbock4853]

This was fun to watch. Don’t know why. My medication may need adjustments.

[@Ratty_Rex]

Can't wait to see the SteamPunk spot welder in action. Another great build.

[@CraigandJane1]

You are one clever bastard. Well done.

[@tceng9449]

You don't need to cut the transformer apart at all, you can just cut the old secondary coil out. That's what I've done since falling at my first one!

[@EmyrDerfel]

With the heavy gauge wire he's used for the new coil, it might have been very difficult to thread the new coils in without damaging the insulation. He might also have a use in mind for the finer wires of the old secondary.

[@danielvanced5526]

I'm sure one could have a very simple timer circuit run from a 555 or something similar with a potentiometer to control pulse time to avoid all the programming malarkey.

[@nolansprojects2840]

Exactly, but honestly, arduino makes it even easier than using a 555 for people that have never used either. More support for arduino, I think.

[@JasonTheRed]

I love the fact you use the most expensive materials for your shop! #unnecessarymahogany

[@MetalWarrior223]

this man deserves so much more love!! These videos on both channels are so amazing

[@franzfoneboneaviation4017]

08:20 Suggest you use a double pole switch to avoid you are opening the neutral and still have the live on. Nice video, well done project, and the humorous twist is great. Now you know it is not just software writers that would do this or that different….also electricians 😉

[@InventiveMan]

Yes DEFINITELY a double pole switch. Even if you wire it correctly with a SP switch on the active line, the house wiring (particularly if it's very old & without safety switches, or in countries with poor compliance) can have the active & neutral lines reversed. A great recipe for electrocution!

[@agenericaccount3935]

Magnificent. The first test energized me.

[@trapjohnson]

10:14 What an oddly satisfying song.

[@ryano1361]

Transformers are created by electromancy. You could also use a mechanical relay timer instead of the Arduino and still get fairly finite control.

[@Nidkidful]

But sub second timing with a timer relay is harder and probably more expensive

[@PaulinesPastimes]

Fabulous. You are a creative genius and so much fun to watch. My mood has been duly lifted. 😊✔

[@zyrppa]

8:18 poor switch trying to handle all that power :D

[@sportstertaco]

I don't even care about what you are building, I'm here for the famous commentary!!

[@luctoulouse]

You should link your second channel....I didn't know about it....All that time that I was waiting for you to post new videos......... AWESOME project man.

[@nickloh912]

"Heirloom spot welder" sounds pretty cool to me. Could probably sell a few of those...

[@eh42]

My MOT spot welder gets _very_ hot. Mind you I weld light gauge sheet metal. But still, that's a lot of current in that wire, and once you start tacking a lot of batteries, give it time to cool down between batches.

[@wrenchingfool5284]

Maybe someone else has said this, but 2.2V and 600A is not enough to kill someone, at least not through electrocution. Human skin has pretty high resistance and 2.2V is far too low to overcome that resistance. Otherwise, people could be easily electrocuted by standard AA batteries (1.5V nominal). You could even put your hands directly on the terminals of a 12V car battery (which can also put out in excess of 1000A for short periods) and you won’t feel a thing. I know that the AC switching frequency can also have an effect on whether or not a shock is perceptible, but either way, 2V is too low to get shocked let alone be lethal. Love the overkill enclosure and the DIY nature of this channel. I hope to be able to do something similar in the future.

[@GoSlash27]

For people who are allergic to Arduinos, a 555 timer IC and a handful of penny parts can do the exact same thing. You won't get the fancy 7 segment LED display, but a trim pot and a dial works just as well.

[@bonkersscience732]

A great build a s usual, and good fun. Just for information: hundreds of amps available on the secondary at just a couple of volts cannot kill. You could lick those points and only feel a tingle (I've done it with a couple of jump leads pn a car battery - to prove a point) and ...if you don't have a welder to weld the transformer laminations back together you can't really do it with epoxy - the magnetic flux/eddy currents won't be able to flow properly (but with a bit for fiddling you can cut out the old secondary and fit the new turns of the thick wire without cutting up the laminations). Will

[@MrAirsoftsniperONE]

The entire video was excellent. Great and entertaining editing, and a cool useful project. Subscribed, can't wait to see your channel explode.

[@Simion1206]

Your loop() routine really should be checking that the button was NOT pressed before activating the activateRelay() again.

[@bobtheunplayer]

Super nice job. If the spot welder leads were detachable, the side of the box had an open extension to hold the leads and button with a nice carry handle, that would be complete.

[@michaelc5369]

I want you to take this as a compliment, I think you might be a mad genius 🤪

[@b5a5m5]

7:22 "I'm liking 3d printing" Now imagine how much easier your dust separator would have been making the insert with 3d printing instead of bending a bunch of pvc fins 😁

[@sayethwe8683]

some youtube videos I can walk away and listen while I go grab something from another room. here, as soon as I do that, there's a childish giggle and i have to finish what I'm doing, come back, and rewind to see Robert knock half a transformer off with a chisel.

[@jeffpalladino3262]

Hey man, just want to say I basically just binge watched all of your videos after finding your channel. I love them! You remind me of myself when I started woodworking, mistakes and all! Keep up the great videos, looking forward to more, you have a great sense of humor! (I know, excessive use of exclamation points!)

[@z185284]

Adding a capacitor on the input could help lower the surge current you’re feeding back into your house every time you use this thing.

[@asamyers4572]

1:46 This is also how I believe automatic transmissions work.

[@bobforester6151]

Didn't know you had a second channel, this was dope

[@mcattack2009]

I understood about 1% of this project but i loved the video all the same! Keep it up man!

[@AndirHon]

If you put a dark piece of semi-transparent plastic in front of the display, it will show the numbers more clear. You can also use something like paper. The point is that you are blocking the ambient light from lighting up the unlit segments and letting the lit segments "blast" through the darkened "glass".

[@ARSZLB]

10:15 holy FUCK dude that sounded like the intro to some sort of FILTHY dubstep track, like Excision or something! incredible editing

[@JoshStLouis314]

With one less secondary turn, I built something very similar, but with 2 parallel 4AWG wires and Miller spot welding tips. Works well up to 3/16" steel, 1300A output at 1.3V.

[@a-aron2276]

Please add a note about the capacitor, to make sure to discharge it safely before cutting any cables.

[@JOEZEP54]

Great repurposing & fun to watch. My first time here. I will be back. Stay safe, Joe Z

[@TheHearseAroundJimThorpe]

I think you could have cut the copper from the transformer instead of the steel body.

[@Cinkodacs]

This way he still has the original coil for a different project.

[@nwblacksmith]

By cutting through the laminations, you are disrupting the magnetic path. This is in part why your transformer draws ten amps when powered up with no load. Use a cold chisel to cut the high voltage wiring off. Do _NOT_ use your bandsaw. You will spend the next hour or so picking little strands of copper wire out of it (ask me how I know this). NOTE: The high voltage winding is usually 2,500 volts and it is high enough current to kill you if you have an accident. Do not "play" with it unless you already have a lot of experience with high lethal voltages. Google it - people have died and electrocution is very very painful. NOTE: One end of the high voltage windings is usually connected to the transformer core (ie: the microwave ground) Outside of that, great build and looking forward to exploring your channel.

[@billysgeo]

You don't have to cut the transformer laminations with angle grinder. You can cut one side of the highvoltage windings with a hand saw and then punch out the rest. Also, a foot switch is much more practical. Speaking from experience.

[@reloadfast]

You are amazing my man. Looking forward to everything that's coming.

[@robertmason6233]

Tip for the 3d printing. Instead of having to change design in fusion360, in the 3d printer slicer you can adjust the fit using the xy size compensation

[@petermiddo]

I'm told it's better to change it as design stage and it definitely is a relatively easy task in Fusion 360

[@robertmason6233]

@@petermiddo sometimes you might need to adjust the xy size to make it fit when using a different 3d printer, instead of making the design fit the printer.

[@petermiddo]

@@robertmason6233 Sure, but very, very rarely are you designing something for other people to use on their own printers, as well as yourself. Most people start out with one small volume 3d printer and that's where they end, with it being a just fad. Some just buy the biggest volume printer they can afford and stick with that one. There are some who buy a small, starter 3D Printer to see if they like it & it's useful to them, and then buy another, larger volume one and keep the little one to increase output. So, in the 2 instances where you've only ever going to have one 3D printer (along with the option of being able to reprint the design on the printer you printed it on in the first place, anyway), changing the design within whatever CAD/CAM software you designed it in is probably still,the smartest idea. That way, if the original part breaks, you simply pull up your design, send it to the slicer without the need to remember to modify it, and jam out the replacement part without printing it, realising you've forgotten to change the dimensions in your slicer and wasting another 3 hours of print time and all that filament, which is plastic waste. Or that's the way it makes sense to me.

[@robertmason6233]

@@petermiddo that's fair.