I made a Victorian Waistcoat for the ~aesthetic~ | 1890s vest for everyday historybounding

Hello everyone and welcome to a new video!
Ever since I made my 1890s (late Victorian) walking skirt, I realised I had enough fabric left over for a matching waistcoat. I was afraid of messing it up, so I kept putting it off, but finally this Winter I decided to tackle it. I used a pattern from the book '59 Authentic Turn-of-the-Century Fashion Patterns' for a jacket and altered it to fit a waistcoat style, or a vest as they seem to have been called. I wanted this to be wearable for every day, without a corset, so I actually fit it over a bra. I got historybounding goals, for whenever we can go outside again.
In the video, I go into detail about the construction, such as lightly covering some tailoring techniques, like adding a canvas layer and padstitching the canvas pad and collar. This isn't quite meant to be a tutorial, more of an outline, since there was a lot of learning for me in this. Particularly, I really fumbled the back of the collar, and as you can see, something that really upsets me about the finished vest is that the front doesn't lay flat. I think this may be for a few different reasons: because I didn't include the side panel, I fumbled the front to get extra width out of it. Maybe the spacement of the buttons and maybe the curviness of the bust without a corset... a lot of maybes. I still find it really comfortable and I love the aesthetic, so I will absolutely be wearing it in my day to day! I also particularly loved wearing this with the matching skirt. I think I need a few more shirtwaists though... and maybe a Hobbit style vest next?
-- THINGS MENTIONED --
1890s walking skirt video • Making a late Victoria...
1890s jacket video (more detail on my first tailoring experience) • Making an 1890s walkin...
59 Authentic Turn-of-the-Century Fashion Patterns amzn.to/3l6cc1k (I didn't mention this in my video but I did on Instagram stories: heads up about this book, I find it virtually unusable without the tapes included in the Frances Grimble books, like this one: amzn.to/38w1KLy)
Authentic Victorian Dressmaking Techniques amzn.to/30zgjth
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Music is from Epidemic Sound.

[@KutyKreations]

The ladder stitching for the darts is BRILLIANT!

[@TheMetatronGirl]

Here’s a question I hope makes you feel better...How do you know your technique is incorrect if there are no instructions? I’m of the mind that if there’s no instruction, what works is correct. The finished waistcoat/vest is gorgeous and looks beautiful on you! Wishing you a blessed week!

[@alittlebitofkatie]

I have never seen darts done like that before. And I love it! That look so much easier than trying to line up the two sides!

[@ChrisFixedKitty]

Another "never saw ladder stitching for darts before" person. I've always compared different similar patterns to avoid darts that are likely to be noticed by anyone (in front, on bodices), but maybe... maybe this will open all those patterns up for me. Thank you!!

[@laurenloertscher1319]

The strange mistakes is one of the reasons I love sewing vlog things.

[@Feelicitasy]

OMG the ladder Stitch Dart is really useful, thank you so much! Your vest turned out beautifully and I really feel the "should have sewn in all the pieces" fit issue lol

[@beckstheimpatient4135]

I love that everyone's been doing late Victorian/Edwardian recently! So much inspiration everywhere! I finished my own walking skirt+waistcoat a couple of weeks ago and I definitely get the hype. They feel so nice to wear!

[@jac_and_the_making_of]

Darts are one of my least favourite things to sew and I will 100% be trying ladder stitch next time. Amazing, thank you.

[@sewcialanxietea1021]

I love your ladder stitch dart basting. I used to (probably over-) use ladder stitch to take in darts on costumes while I was in school theatre. Sometimes while the actor was wearing the piece...

[@Nesi-Rose]

This is perfect! I just realized that I don't have enough fabric for a nice full skirt in the dress that I'm working on, so I decided to turn the bodice into a vest instead. I might go for a more intentional vest once I finish this one.

[@aniE1869]

It's the little imperfections that make life beautiful!

[@pv6450]

Lovely job. Don’t worry about the wrinkles. That is often the way things work with modern undergarments. Your skills are definitely improving!!

[@paula-zzz]

that machine shots at 2:30 are just 10/10

[@MsDeepAndDark]

Shots of walking around in the snow are pute ✨aesthetic ✨. However, I can't help but want to zoom in to properly appreciate the vest😅

[@lesleyharris525]

The mum in me was thinking put your coat on it's cold.lol

[@mothersuperior6751]

Great job. I loved that walking in the snow created a frosted edge. Your button holes looked gorgeous.

[@traciasmith1542]

love this channel. I love how I know I am not the only one that does little flubs that work out. love how clear your video is when showing the pad and herringbone stitches

[@dee-annegordon5959]

Using a jacket pattern to make a vest is brillant. It turned out so well! Despite a few mistakes.

[@ceruleanskies001]

Looks great! I've never seen darts done like that before and I will have to save this video for the future. Have a good weekend!

[@SimpleDesertRose]

That came out so cute! You need a pocket watch and a brooch to finish off the look. 😁❤ Ladder stitching your darts was the best idea ever. I'm going to do that with all my darts in the future. Finally get those pesky darts nice and even. Thanks for sharing that with us.

[@briefisbest]

Aesthetic goals here. Thanks for including the missing side panels!

[@anaisabelsantos4661]

This has been in my wish list for ages, I just need to find the courage to start.

[@darklymoonlit]

It's lovely! That fabric is just so perfect for menswear-inspired stuff. Very smart!

[@josiemakes]

How do you have time to upload a video every week? With studying and living and making all these hand-sewn garments that are to such a high standard.

[@CatsCostumery]

To be honest, I was going to write a funny comment about having no time - but actually, it's not that funny 😂 I am constantly working, stressing, and I do not give myself breaks, 0/10 do not recommend 😅

[@WindspielArt]

@@CatsCostumery maybe one video every 2 weeks would be more doable? or 3 videos a month so you would have at least one week 'off'? stressing all the time isn't healthy :( - but I guess because you need to earn money with yt not stressing about it isn't an option too :(

[@josiemakes]

@@CatsCostumery thanks for an honest answer! And yeah, I think a lot of us would understand if you took longer between videos ♥️ if you ever needed to

[@nataliestanchevski4628]

I love it! I love the whole outfit! You look beautiful!I'm working on my 3rd mockup for a waistcoat, I can't seem to get the fit exactly the way I want it. Maybe I should check to see if I'm using all the pattern pieces? 😉

[@CatsCostumery]

Would recommend using all the pattern pieces 😅

[@ReinaElizondo]

I love how it came out! 😅Aw when you showed that missing side panel. But it looks great, so chalk it down to a happy accident. The insides looked awesome too! All that pad stitching, wow.

[@cravetherandom]

The waistcoat looks great! Beautifully handled 💖

[@Gravuun]

It looks beautiful, with or without a few wrinkles! And I actually really like the buttons

[@ZacharyDBrooks]

Thank goodness the Singer 185 is back!

[@mrs.knecro7044]

I have off cuts of wool that I got from a repurpose store and i really want to try and make a vest or something with it. I just don’t know if I have enough of it to do that.. This came out lovely though ❤️

[@ReinaElizondo]

Sometimes the front of vests are made from a fashion fabric and the back is made with a different thinner one. Probably for them to go under suit jackets etc. and to lessen bulk there. Maybe that will help? I've also seen contrast panels or half panels (split up by pockets/under pockets) on the front, as well as on lapels. Good luck!

[@WindspielArt]

​@@ReinaElizondo "Probably for them to go under suit jackets etc. and to lessen bulk there"

[@hazelmeldrum5860]

@@ReinaElizondo Over the years I have worn [although not made] many waistcoats and the easier to wear have been those with a different thinner material at the back.usually a colour taken from the main tones of the front. They also tended therefore to give a little room to move around .

[@mrs.knecro7044]

@@WindspielArt @Reina thank you both so much! I hadn’t even thought about that honestly! I’m pretty sure I could make that work if I had the wool as just the front half and back or sides as a thinner different fabric! I too am plus size so I don’t think I would have been able to make a full vest since I don’t have a full width of fabric but I’m looking forward to getting creative with that now!

[@VBirchwood]

Lovely video Cat! I highly recommend DeVere Yarns in the UK for sourcing silk twist for buttonholes. I get the size that is the medium thickness out of all the sizes they offer and it works like a charm. Beautiful vest!

[@CatsCostumery]

Oh my gosh! I love DeVere Yarns, I searched there for silk buttonhole but didn't understand at the time that just their twisted silk threads would do, thank you for letting me know :)

[@VBirchwood]

@@CatsCostumery I use their 360 denier embroidery silk and it's perfect for buttons! I also use it for all other seams too funnily enough... just for extra durability :) (hand sewing though, not sure if they work in machines).

[@tenaoconnor821]

It looks wonderful. I like the material and it looks like it fits nicely. Love your sewing machine. I have a singer 301A and a 403A. I use them as much as my modern one. Lol

[@ReinaElizondo]

Oh I have a 403a/special. Have you found a walking foot that works for it? I got one that is too short although it claimed it would fit a whole bunch of slant machines including 403. It wasn't the singer slant foot (which is more expensive) but I'm worried the same will be true for that one.

[@michellecornum5856]

This is like the missing pockets. The added bits at the sides are the problem, not you. Sides are supposed to be a seam -- not added pieces. (I'm laughing, but not out of meanness -- ) There were no side pockets to forget -- just the entire side! This turned out very nice. Such a lot of hand work! It looks just lovely! Stay well!

[@aroger2486]

It's fabulous! I love it. Great job.

[@NikkNacqs]

Ok but I literally JUST DID THE SAME DAMN THING with the side pieces on a wool waistcoat (I cut them out and then promptly hid them somewhere so when it didn’t fit and I went back to my paper pattern brain went ‘WUT’ ) I’m making in a grey/navy herringbone that looks a lot like your wool and HOW, WHY!? Your lovely aesthetic waistcoat looks fantastic now though and it’s almost convinced me to take mine out of the time-out bin.

[@niipo8313]

You just made darts a WHOLE lot easier for me ahha thankk you. And amazing work

[@ClayCraftCoffee]

It came out so nice!!! Its so cool to see the final video after having seen you work on it on your insta.

[@marga5117]

Always learn so m much from your experiences. Appreciate the size of your flrhe project!

[@curiositydrawsme9180]

Ooh! That looks so good!

[@FlybyStardancer]

So is the side panel the pocket equivalent on this project? lol The final vest is lovely!! Eventually I want to make one for myself, but I have skills I need to build up first.

[@dlsgl407]

Well done! Nice cinematography too :)

[@hazeluzzell]

It links really good with the top and skirt.

[@cayjadoobirsingh2519]

It’s lovely and looks great on you!

[@merelymayhem]

great video, the waistcoat turned out beautifully

[@the1band1wagon]

My heart goes out to you for forgetting a panel

[@selkiemorien9006]

You seem to enjoy padstitching - it alway looks so neat in your videos *__* I think that collarshape is very flattering on you, hope you get a lot of wear out of that one.

[@canucknancy4257]

That looks amazing! Thanks for sharing!

[@meros3881]

IT'S SOOOO PRETTY!

[@dcinrb8538]

Sigh....To be slender enough that (2 x) side panels are not needed in order to button up (and breathe normally ). Congratulations on your lovely work. 🌺 Take care and be safe 😷

[@ladystitch-a-lot]

Its beautiful and inspiring to make my own.

[@therewillbecatswithgwenhwyfar]

So beautiful!

[@katewill7302]

so cute and looks warm!

[@gigiw.7650]

What lovely sewing! Great to watch. It looks so good on you, too!

[@marthabenner6528]

You just saved me, or my sanity. Thank you.

[@brigidscaldron]

OH! It's so lovely!

[@susanrobertson984]

so freaky I have the exact same fabric... I think I posted the same comment when you did the walking skirt. It's purple and blue houndstooth on a grey background. I love my skirt - it's just a gored and godet-ed skirt. I wear it constantly.

[@bunhelsingslegacy3549]

That looks lovely!

[@alexistouss40]

You should have put some boning in it, to avoid wrinkles, it is historically accurate. But yet it is so beautiful !

[@fabioferreiragomes]

.......ESPETACULAR.........INCRÍVEL.........

[@christie_exist]

So beautiful! 😍

[@Devanrealness]

Looks great!❤

[@sues.9791]

It is lovely!

[@MysteryMommy1]

Gorgeous

[@mandylavida]

Beautiful

[@MelodyLovelace]

6 minutes ago! KZbin has blessed me

[@grimnirnacht]

Wrinkles or not, it looks great

[@gabriellechristine]

Love it

[@oliviatreutlein281]

I love this whole look it's so gorgeous and you just made my life a hundred times easier with the ladder stitch for darts! I just had a question about drafting the pattern from the book you used, I have the book and the patterns are lovely but I have no idea how to make them a tangible pattern piece? Send help, please!

[@katarzynamolendys9158]

I always wander how you manage handsewing while having your nails in an untouched state with not even a single scratch from a needle? I can't do it myself. If I do some needlework with my nails painted, I finish with lots of annoying dings on the nail polish...

[@THEMAYQUEEN1]

That’s a gorgeous outfit.

[@ZebrasTurnPink]

omg I’m obsesseddddddd

[@funkypunkypine]

Gorgeous!

[@jennglow4647]

😃

[@FebbieG]

When you said "baste around one eighth of the marking", did you mean "baste around the marking, one eighth inch away"? I was really confused about why you would need to baste only one half of one side. Lol

[@CatsCostumery]

I did! Sorry for the phrasing it poorly 😅

[@FebbieG]

@@CatsCostumery Oh, we *all* do that sometimes. No worries.

[@rubytook8067]

Is that a Hufflepuff sweater? (Seen while cutting fabric) 😍

[@sandradearing604]

[@Lousiannie]

😊 ✌🏻 ✨

[@chronischgeheilt]

What is the skirt pattern and what fabric? Or is there a video to it? Love the swooshing :)

[@CatsCostumery]

There is a video, it's linked in the description box! :)

[@verdandiknits]

Dear Cat. I noticed that in the video you wear a knitted jumper with the hem folded upwards. This can be seen in many photos of the Victorian/Edwardian era. Does this have a reason or is it just the fashion of the time?

[@stevezytveld6585]

Is this a brand-new-to-you sewing machine? She looks lovely. Do you have any of the myriad of presser feet? I'm now having a serious case of vest envy - between you, Bernadette and Costuming Drama. Well. Because - stunning. Well done. But I'm not allowed to start on it until I'm done with the asymmetrical dress and the Red Threaded half stays (both of which I'm currently pattern hacking within a inch of their lives - still - insert eye roll here). And then probably Gertie's Charm Scout hat... because, why not... - Cathy (&, accidently, Steve), Ottawa/Bytown

[@CatsCostumery]

This machine belonged to the grandma of a friend who very kindly gave it to me a bit over a year ago! I absolutely love it and it did come with a lot of presser feet I still have to explore :)

[@stevezytveld6585]

@@CatsCostumery Oooh. Those classic Singers. What's not to love. I'm completely smitten with my Covid indulgence - a 1915 Singer 99K. Had my heart at the 1mm stiches and the Georgian clack-clack. When you get a chance, totally explore the presser feet. On the whole, they're pretty intuitive. But there are people on the internet who have wee tutorials - worth the algorithm hunt...

[@Smedette]

When you attached the boning, were any stitches visible on the right side? It looks like some stitches were on the canvas and pad stitching layers, but other stitches were on the fashion fabric?

[@CatsCostumery]

The stitches on the fabric were only on the excess fabric taken up by the dart, so not through to the outside fabric. On the other seams, I tried to only catch the seam allowances too. However, I'm sure some stitches went through, but my thread was very close in colour and this wool was very forgiving so they're not very noticeable :)

[@TheFalconoflight]

[@lurdessm7116]

🤔You should iron the fabric before sewing ....😉