i-miev DC-DC converter repair Part 1

Part 1 of the diagnosis and repair of the Mitsubishi i-miev, Peugeot Ion , Citreon C-Zero, DC to DC converter failure, this seams to be a known issue with these vehicles, and can cost many thousands of dollars to replace, but with some basic mechanical skills, and some soldering of new parts, we managed to repair ours for just $20. the cost of 2 capacitors, and a fuse from Mitsubishi, the fuse was $15.
Part 2 when i recover the footage will cover the actual replacement of the capacitors.
When this fails, the car will fail to charge from AC power, though it will still drive and operate normally, only showing 2 errors on the instruments, 1 of the High voltage system, and the 12 volt system. i believe you can still charge from DC via the Chademo port, though i did not try this.

[@GillesGuilleux]

Thank you very much from france, just followed all your steps and found that a blue capacitor exactly where you showed it has popped up. no small card on my car directly 2 blue capacitors ( peugeot ion from 2011). now just have to buy spare part solder capacitor, change fuse and cross fingers !

[@FlorianDiefenthaler]

I saved much time doing the desoldering and soldering in the built in condition inside of the vehicle. It was helpful to have a goold soldering station and a de soldering vacuum pump. Undoing the DC Connection plug under the seat is a must in order to stay safe. There is no cooling liquid in the PCB area.

[@SydneyEV]

good to know there is no liquid cooling in the PCB area, at the time we had no idea what the failure modes were, or what we would find, and found it easier to work on a desk. we weren't expecting the repair to be so easy

[@EVBrief]

Maybe it's just the Sydney lockdown, but this video was nail-biting 😬 glad you guys know what you're doing. Made it look simple!

[@martinwinlow]

Excellent video, thank you. Useful for other repairs involving the Charger - DC/DC converter box, too. We've got 4 i-MiEVs here on the Isle of Colonsay, Argyll, Scotland. Fabulous wee cars that we hope to keep going for as long as we can. Mitsubishi management should all be sacked for abandoning this design.

[@SydneyEV]

yes, ours is still going strong after all these years, though there is a company here that can refurbish the battery and bring up to 24kwh capacity which gives it about 300km range! Sadly it appears the DC-DC converters are the only real weakness in the car, but once fixed, seem to go on just fine.

[@redcane0]

@sydneyeev I think part 2 of this has been removed from KZbin. I'm not sure if that is unintentional?

[@SydneyEV]

thanks for letting me know, ill look into it and try to get it back up as fast as i can.

[@markhetherington2809]

@@SydneyEV It's a great resource, so it would be great to get it back!

[@markhetherington2809]

@@SydneyEV Looks like it's back! Thanks!

[@SydneyEV]

@@markhetherington2809 i got them back up, for some reason, about 10 of my videos were set to private! no idea why. just over 2 months ago someone tried hacking my account and a lot of abuse was posted, it might be a hangover from stopping that

[@HaraldKommedal]

RS electronic do have the required capacitors. About €5 for a pack of 10.

[@SydneyEV]

hopefully you will only ever need just the 1

[@mikoajjasinski6118]

it is necessary to remove the entire inverter from the car and you can not fix it in the car and solder new capacitors?

[@backwoodsbungalow9674]

Interesting question; this video might make it possible to do the repair in the car, now that we know what is needed. ☮️

[@DrDnepr]

Awesome !!!!!!!!!!!!! - I have followed the thread on myImiev - and it seems there can be different things wrong - one thing is the massive build up of heat in these OBC's .. The question is why did the caps blew ?? ... Thanks again for sharing this WONDERFUL video !!

[@kiyotakakaneko3602]

There is information on the recall of dc-dc converters in Japan.

[@chrishitch2924]

Hi. Great videos. Did this give P1A15. High voltage circuit fault code ?

[@selmateacher7]

Very clear directions. Thank you

[@selmateacher7]

@@SydneyEV Please see my video on the Miev, I just finished it. kzbin.info/www/bejne/haWtiYOkj7CblZI

[@MarcoLemmetti]

Why do I need to drain the coolant before opening up the cover just to check if the capacitors are blown? Is there literal coolant in the OBC before I pop open the lid?

[@SydneyEV]

if you dont plan on removing the converter then i am assuming you should be able keep the coolant untouched.

[@cpnnz]

Great couple of videos! I've actually got an iMiEV in NZ which struggles to charge on AC, but will still charge fine on DC Chademo. The AC charge will most likely fail if you start from a lower charge level, but may be ok if it's just a top up. It can randomly show various warnings like the tortoise and ev system while driving. Mitsubishi advise it needs a new battery, but I'm not so sure... what sorts of issues were you having with your imiev? Thanks

[@daniellele9634]

Hey SydneyEV Thanks for the video, because of you guys i dared to do it my self. Now I followed everything you did and have replaced the fuse in the MCU also got the same resistors that you mentioned. Although the warning lights dissapared from the car I still cannot charge it. It makes a ticking sound from the fuse box in the front. Im lost, i have taken the OBC out 3 times now to checked everything tired to resolder again but nothing helps. Could it be that i ruined it? Or could there be something else. Anyone with any ideas?

[@daniellele9634]

Only thing i have not done is that I didnt refill it with coolant yet, but cant see why that would be an issue?

[@rocksept]

Do you know how to turn on the heating during normal charging on this car?

[@SydneyEV]

you cant without turning the car on, then the heater and air con works.

[@WillDeasy]

Great video mate.

[@khaleelbaloch8600]

Hi. I have a mitsubishi i miev. I cannot get a 3kv capacitor. F102K53S3NR63K7R CAP, 1000PF, 3 KV, 10%, S3N Can anyone advice

[@toyotaprius79]

Why must dealerships make something so simple so expensive!!

[@SydneyEV]

our local dealership followed a simple instruction sheet that was trial and error, they wanted to replace one thing after another until it was fixed. even after we told them what the problem was, they still started replacing parts that didnt need replacing, while we were paying for it.

[@redcane0]

The little vertical board looks the same as ours did before we repaired it!

[@redcane0]

@@SydneyEV indeed!

[@redcane0]

I also somewhat think Mitsubishi could easily offer a refurb exchange program on these, rather than $4K replacements for a failed $20 part...

[@redcane0]

Such is the modern world... Oh well, I learnt a lot fixing mine. So I should be able to keep it in the road for a while. Starting to think I might need to repack the cells by the end of this winter though - starting to choose between heater and keeping up with traffic to get home on a charge.

[@redcane0]

I think I'd be pushing my luck to get 90km, the last section goes up 500m of elevation. 70km commute. Usually get back with 0-4 bars on the gauge, but I've never hit turtle mode. The drivers seat heater is great, but doesn't work with passengers. I often only use 3 bars on the commute in, I think it's near all downhill. No fast chargers within 300km. Might have to get a slow charger near work.

[@redcane0]

That is commitment! Any chance of charging at work? I think that is almost ideal - you can charge during the day when the sun is out. I bought the car accepting the idea that I'd only ever charge at home, and honestly it hasn't let me down yet. The only chargers within 150% of it's range from home are some Tesla destination (slow) chargers, and some (incompatible) Tesla superchargers. These are all really close to the start of the home journey though. I find it a little inconsistent - some days I get home with 2 bars shy of half a charge, other days I'll be on zero or one bars. I suspect colder days are worse (even if I don't use the heater). In any other respect it's such a convenient car though. I suspect that repacking the battery with new cells might cost more than a grey import leaf, but I think it might be worth it.

[@mikeduggan4227]

Volume really low. Good and concise video.

[@SydneyEV]

sorry about the volume, i was new to making video's and editing back then

[@nordmann328]

Hey😊 which year is that car? Is it a 2015? Try to change from 2011 the DCDC converter to a 2017 model 😅 Thanks

[@SydneyEV]

this is a 2010 model.

[@_a.z]

Is everything flooded with coolant when full?

[@_a.z]

@@SydneyEV Thanks, just picked up a Peugeot iOn !

[@Georgatzis]

At which time is that happen ??? what year from purchase ?

[@ziozzot]

does anyone know what the maximum power of the DC DC converter is ?

[@SydneyEV]

not sure, im not up on the more technical aspects

[@Georgatzis]

My don t charge enymore, and no codes no blowing capasitors. no high ohm resistors on the pcb, no blow fuses . what else can it be ?

[@Georgatzis]

At now it is on peugeot dealer ! They tell me the charger can not comunicate with peugeot France ( Via internet diagnostic). It seems like a can bus problem ! they will call me later to verify this and tell me the price ! Good news is that the PCBs inside this charger can be buy seperatly and not like in the past the complete charger !

[@MartinHornansky]

Hi. Anyone knows how to fix/replace a horn on this type of car? Thank you very much.

[@SydneyEV]

the horn? no idea to be honest.

[@_a.z]

Black component is a relay I'd say.

[@_a.z]

@@SydneyEV Could be a mylar capacitor

[@АндрейТитов-ц4е]

Всегда так делаю,сам конечно !!!!!!!

[@Iraq-hf3vu]

When 12v died …. Ev battery would died

[@Iraq-hf3vu]

@@SydneyEV when 12v battery dies.. it causes no charging for ev battery.. and that’s very bad for it even kills it

[@Андрій007-с3й]

50 км больше не едет на одном заряде. Проверено

[@qosta312]

150 умеючи. Проверено