I-miev Dc-DC converter repair Part 2

[@FlorianDiefenthaler]

Very well described. I saved much time doing the desoldering and soldering in the built in condition inside of the vehicle. It was helpful to have a goold soldering station and a de soldering vacuum pump.

[@SydneyEV]

im pretty crap ap soldering, but luckily my partner is good at electronic stuff, hence she did all the solder work. at the time we removed it from the car as we didn't know what to expect and were expecting to have to replace the entire converter with a second hand one

[@Kallenator1988]

Bloody well documented lads and lasses, this is very much appreciated, thanks for uploading! (Btw, noticed a bit of rust around the seat bolts. I took apart the whole interior last year to scrub the floor carpet, and went over the rust spots with a bit of rust-sealant while I was cleaning.)

[@floriandiefenthaler2553]

I was able to do the repair some 2 years and 22.000 km’s ago. This time the Okaya LS225 X2 condenser with 2,2 microfarad was producing smoke and made charging AC impossible. With this defect the 20 A fuse in the inverter stayed healthy.

[@SydneyEV]

I cant rember what the rating of the capacitor was now, but we have not had an issue since the repair.

[@sebastianbiegun7724]

It's works!! Thank You!!

[@SydneyEV]

good to hear!

[@cedec44]

Thank you for the videos, I have just repaired my 2011 C-Zero easily (error code U1113, P0A09 and P1A12), 1 blue capacitor was blow. For the next ones: I removed only the upper board (pay attention when you dismentel the flat cable), it's not necessery to dismentle everything.

[@SydneyEV]

good to hear you dont need to dismantle to much.

[@floriandiefenthaler2553]

@@SydneyEV well - to have sufficient room to clean up everything and to scrape off the silicon that covers the electronic components I recommend to take the upper board out. The unlocking mechanism of the flat multiwire cable is almost intuitive. After replacement of the condensers, I also recommend to embed them in a suitable polymer.

[@barbaraannen8126]

Capacitor specs @2:47

[@fenflyer]

This inverter fault is almost identical fault found on Mitsubishi Outlander PHEV inverter no charge fault Cheers 👍

[@SydneyEV]

possibly they use the same component? never had a good look at our PHEV when we had it, it also never had any issues luckily

[@NickCohn]

Thanks for these videos. Just had the inverter/DC-DC convertor fail on my 2011 I-MiEV. Mitsubishi dealer I've been going to since the car was new doesn't want to touch it. They say that the convertor is no longer available from Mitsubishi. This gives me hope that it can be solved. Thanks! For the people who asked about Chademo, it works in my case. Only problem was that the 12V system is apparently used while charging so when my car got to about 50% it stopped because the 12V battery was empty. Is is true what some comments say about parts being tied to the VIN???

[@NickCohn]

@@SydneyEV Good news. My 2011 I-MiEV is working again! Your videos on this subject made it possible for me to fix this myself and save our car from the scrap heap. Thank you, thank you, THANK YOU! Still can't believe the Mitsubishi dealer just washed their hands of this so easily, and really, this was not that hard to fix - so long as you can solder. ;-) I recorded all of my repair so I'll be sharing it on my channel as soon as it's done. Thanks again for these videos!

[@garethhuth947]

3:01 had same issues with blown capacitors and repaired as you did 2x1nf caps but two quick questions. The board capacitors were 2nf by four in series parallel according to my multimeter did you have a schematic to know what was needed? how did you test the relay? saw some of the spade locations but was wandering if you could help with more info. Our charger was working (just super slow) and now will start and then fault out after fan and cooling check (can hear a relay kick in and the shut off) Any help would be amazing!

[@SydneyEV]

We did not have a schematic or anything, just pulled it apart to see what was damaged, and spotted the destroyed components, we got all the info we needed from this site myimiev.com/, where the members were very helpful. but in our case, the charging wouldn't start and the fan and cooling check didn't happen. sorry i cant be of much more help

[@matthewspry4217]

Thanks for showing, I hope to own an I miev with a blown capacitor some day soon!! 👍👍

[@toyotaprius79]

2:47 🤦💀 And this causes a €2000+ bill for a new entire assembly?

[@SydneyEV]

sadly yep, in our case, the service centre replaced the wrong component and it cost us $1200, and didnt fix anything. they wanted another $2000 to keep fixing, so we decided to do it ourselves.

[@cameronblake9033]

I've replaced the capacitors. Put all back together and I still wont charge via ac. Currently sitting at a dc station charging up.

[@floriandiefenthaler2553]

Have you also replaced the fuse, as shown in this video? Typically it blows off, when the capacitors die.

[@AndreasLangvatn-ALMedia]

Thanks man! Very helpful!

[@SydneyEV]

glad it has helped.

[@AndreasLangvatn-ALMedia]

Yes!@@SydneyEV

[@cgauer]

This is really helpful! Should I perhaps do the job before it fails? Any better or uprated capacitors? What is the root cause? MTBF, project?

[@cgauer]

SydEV Good to know! I’m driving a 2010 too, VIN ending 808.. Well, let’s hope for the best! Luckily, if it happens, at least there is already an amazing tutorial to help us sort! ;) Best regards from Brazil!

[@ytSuns26]

Capacitors have a definite aging rate , ten to twenty years for any capacitor . Does not mean all of the caps need replacement but!

[@SydneyEV]

not sure, With this failure, you can still charge the car from DC Chademo,

[@floriandiefenthaler2553]

Other than on ICE cars, where a failure of the timing Chain or belt would damage valves this defect does not have a side effect off further damage. Sure - when you do the repair and only one capacitor would be blown => change both. I have searched for hints after the failure - you are informed far ahead.

[@razortim371]

Hello can you recommend a potting compound? What product was used here?

[@SydneyEV]

We just used a neutral cure high temperature grade silicon sealant. usually a red colour. Im sure other sealants would be fine, or a dielectric sealant.

[@Cjudd001]

Ledgends.

[@AshAckroyd]

Thanks for the video, feeling confident that I can repair this myself now - do you need to remove the heatsink to solder in the capacitors? Do you have a part number for the fuse?

[@SydneyEV]

not sure about the part number for the fuse, we asked the Mitsubishi service department, and the old fuse,

[@AshAckroyd]

@@SydneyEV I found the fuse part number: 9499A656. I replaced the capacitors in the DCDC converter and repaired the car 😊

[@SydneyEV]

Nice work! @@AshAckroyd Its amazing Mitsubishi cant figure it our or do the work.

[@AshAckroyd]

@@SydneyEV I ended up digging out the sealant with cuticle sticks, cracking the capacitors with pliers leaving the legs intact in the board, I then soldered the new caps to the existing legs then back filled with sealant 🤣

[@SydneyEV]

@@AshAckroyd nice work, definitely a n easier way to do it

[@johnbanes1051]

hi, maybe you have the schematic diagrams of the converter or at least you have a high resolution photo of the lower board, the one with the big heatsink? I tried to unsolder the heatsink and accidentally blew off the resistor with a jet of hot air, now I don't know what resistance it has and where it was.

[@johnbanes1051]

@@SydneyEV thank you

[@nikolajrudnicki4957]

My 12V battery is not charging during the ride, is it DC converter ?

[@floriandiefenthaler2553]

Yes the DC-DC converter is also responsible for charging the 12 V battery. And possible no - it might also be a defect of the 12 V Battery. Please check the voltage at this battery with vehicle turned off and compare to voltage in turned on position before starting your repair. Do you have newer information about your defect and repair?

[@Georgatzis]

Do you know where the vin chip is located at the charger ?

[@ОлександрМатвіюк-у6к]

I did everything like you did in the video, hooray, everything worked out, but only for 3 days, and it burned out again, what could be the reason for this?

[@liamshambrook7588]

Thanks so much for this, couldn't have done it without your guidance. Just wondering which chips you were checking with the multimeter for the continuity test?

[@apanifer]

Hello, here in spain there is at least 4 or five knows issues with the charger. but in almost cases, the broken component is a pk10 TAM. have you any email address to send a picture of the components broken? many thanks in advance.

[@Georgatzis]

Can you send me the same picture or pictures ? I have the same charging problem. Everthing works fine on the car but it wan t charge! [e-mail]

[@Georgatzis]

A question ! You said You open the bottom of the inverter to check if the fuse was blown. Was it blown ?

[@Georgatzis]

@@SydneyEV Thanks for you answer !

[@MrD7J7K7]

Спасибо!!!

[@Georgatzis]

This car is made to bring profit to Mitsubishi! The car after 8-10 years develop charger problem. Charger to change 4300 Euros because you cannot buy separately the parts to reaper it! Who would buy a car when the tire is flat and in the workshop you are told that the gearbox have to be replaced with the tire because they work together ???!!!! Everything is vin coded so you cannot buy used parts and replaced. Battery last about 15 years and cost until yet 10.000 Euros! Even if a small problem occurs with the battery you must change all the battery. So consider to give after 15 years 15.000 Euros for maintains. That’s no Green driving! This car cost more to drive than a normal gasoline car! Mitsubishi has once again shown us how wonderful it is to drive green!

[@Georgatzis]

For mr the repair cost 4300euros ! I have not the same problem with you ! So if you pay 4300 and 10000 for the battery after a while. Is that Green driving ??? Is this economical ???

[@party-zn519]

Have you changed lev50 cells to lev65? bms sees 65Аh?

[@party-zn519]

I understand that I have a car 81%, Japan. but despite this, I want to change the cells to 65Ah and the mileage will be much more on a single charge. it’s just not clear whether the BMU can correctly determine the battery capacity, in the datasheet it says that a maximum of 65Ah.

[@party-zn519]

good! Mitsubishi PHEV Outlander place in the battery case is more convenient to do other cells. can put 40 (1x2) cells from Nissan Leaf.

[@tomasdavidek3996]

Hi, colleague, I have a Citroen C-zero and no problem until now.But the car has now thrown out a fault P1A15 fault charging the capacitor.There are crazy repair prices in the repair shop and it's still not certain that it will fix it. Can't you please advise me?I love the car and I don't want to tow it to scrap.

[@tomasdavidek3996]

@@SydneyEV Thank you very much for the information.I hope to find something there to help me fix the car.

[@lukasbidva3047]

Is it possible to do this without draining coolant?

[@lukasbidva3047]

@@SydneyEV i have changed obc with another one from a scrapyard. It sat in a car with front collision. After changing it, the light on dashboard is still there and car won't charge. Any suggestions of what is most reasonable next thing to do? Trying to do this diy as my budget is really tight. Anyway. Your video was bunch of help and really appreciated.

[@DrDnepr]

@@lukasbidva3047 Did you change the MCU Fuse ??

[@peterlundgren7981]

Hi, Is it possible to fast charge via Chademo when this happens? Thanks! Great video!! //Peter

[@energiavadasz3328]

@@SydneyEV WoW, i am sorry to hear that Sydney only has 1DC fast charger. Way behind the time.

[@floriandiefenthaler2553]

Yes - the traction battery can still be charged via ChaDeMo. You will have to charge the tiny lead acid battery under the front hood, because the charging and power supply of the lights, vents and all other accessory devices is also fed by the DC-DC converter.

[@petterkongrod]

Thanks for two very useful videos, SydEV. I have the same issues on my C Zero and have now followed your video to unmount the DC-DC converter. My capacitors is not blown, but they have cracks in the surrounding shell. Do you think they cause the problem even if they are not completely blown? I have checked all of the fuses within both sides of the DC-DC converter and they all seem ok.

[@petterkongrod]

@@SydneyEV Yes, thanks, This is very helpful. I have ordered new capacitors at RS and a new fuse for the inverter, so hopefully it will charge again :)

[@Georgatzis]

After repair can now the car charge ?

[@daniellele9634]

@@petterkongrod Any update?

[@petterkongrod]

@@daniellele9634 Hi, it did´nt work out. I had to replace the whole DC-DC converter.

[@daniellele9634]

@@petterkongrod Aww damn.. thats a bummer. Thanks for the reply