I try some cheap self drilling spiral thread taps

Gun taps for the quick on the draw handyman.
Drillpro 6pcs M3-M10 Combination Drill Tap Bit Set -- bit.ly/2U5WMPy
This video includes the review of a donated product.
Cameras: Nikon L820 and Lumix FZ300

[@lochaberryan]

Mark, auto punch, cutting fluid, low speed drill, great job everytime. Love these cheapo taps...

[@DustinWatts]

I actually love these tap drills... if you use them correctly. Here are some tips for your viewers (and you of course). - Stay away from hard metal like steel, you break them a lot. - Pre-drill the hole 1cm smaller then what you actually going for. So for example M5, drill a 4mm pilot hole. - Use slow RPM on your drill And as I said stick to aluminium, copper, brass and other softer metals. or alloys If you follow the the above, you get a long live out of them and get a nice tapped hole each time! :D

[@roadrash1981]

I have used these on 6mm steel with a 18v cordless impact driver they worked surprisingly well

[@RGSABloke]

Hi Rob, I have a set of these and as said below they work great on thin material but need lots of care when using on thicker stuff. For the money they are a great tool on the appropriate job. Thanks for sharing. Kindest regards from Bonnie Scotland. Joe.

[@CliffsShed]

hello Rob, good video as usual, good point about the speed of the threaded bit chasing the drill bit, never thought of that, but obvious when its pointed out! All the best, Cliff

[@devers6]

An unsung use for these tools is for 3d printing. I used to create parts with holes destined for threading by modeling the hole .5mm smaller than the fastener, then using the screw itself to form the threads. Now I use the tap/drills to clear out the hole and tap it, and it works much better. Somewhat like wood, 3d printed parts have a “grain” where the filaments fuse together. Driving a fastener into an undersized hole creates a radial force that is surprisingly strong, and I routinely split parts until I started using these drills to make threaded holes. Also, I have had much better success using a cordless screwdriver as opposed to a drill/driver. These operate much more slowly and have less torque, so it is much easier to control the tapping function without stripping threads.

[@regpye]

I have been using these for years now and have found the best way to use them is with a battery drill, low speed and most important to lubricate with a bit of lard. Been using them mostly on aluminium, but found the tapping steel thick wall square tubing they work better. Aluminium tends to pickup on the tap if not lubricated. Using at high speed causes the thread to become stripped often, breaking of the tap is another problem with high speed. Never used the countersink part because I could see that could cause problems in several ways.

[@stephentayler1414]

Yes I have to agree I always pre drill when using these, But they are handy for hand tapping to, I had to make an adapter for that, But they do hold square in the pilot hole and make for easy hand tapping.

[@houseofbrokendobbsthings5537]

Morning Rob. I have a couple of sets of these. Handy if you are realistic with your expected outcome. I have had good luck drilling through small aluminum or cast piece. Very quick and light duty thread without the need to chase down a bit and a tap. I also used them under power with a tapping head - no issue at all. I through a set in my drill bag for the whatever and wherever. Thanks for sharing. Totally agree that you have to watch the depth to not drive the bit into hole by the threads. _Dan_

[@wayneo7307]

Hi Rob , Great Information on those Drill Taps ! Looks like they Would Snap Easy Especially the Small ones ! The Way it Grabbed . When I Was Younger I Had A Electric Makita Drill Grab and Twist , Took My Wrist With It Almost ! Quick lesson Learned ! Let Go of It if it Get hung up ! Another Great Interesting Video ! Thanks Rob .

[@Xynudu]

Hi Wayne, It's human reaction. When things grab the tendency is always to grip harder.. Hard to school yourself to let go. I think we've all been down that path at least once ;) One thing I always do is wear safety glasses/eye protection with drills and taps. They can lock and go bang real quick, with grenade like effect. Seen it happen. Safety gear is cheap insurance. Cheers Rob

[@OldSneelock]

I have used these in production tooling. One job was drilling and tapping both sides of a thin walled aluminum die casting. The spindle was programmed with depth stop and speed control. The machine had a limited number of spindles and needed to cycle faster. I ordered special ground tools to meet depth requirements. The bits were ground with split points too. It worked okay for that particular application. Power tapping in a hand drill is problematic. I worked for a company that reworked parts for automotive manufacturers. We always gauged tapped holes to insure they met spec. Invariably threaded holes that were tapped or chased using a tap in a hand drill failed the no go side of the gauge. I think that the off center force applied to the power tools pistol grip caused it to scour the side of the hole toward the pistol grip. For thin stuff, and like you say channel and angle in fabrication, these might be okay. For them to work they need to have the drill bit point split. Swapping out the drill bit and the self drilling bit just to get it to start destroys the premis of time saving. I don't generally buy sets of unique tools. They tend to have one size that gets used and the rest sit in a drawer. I agree on the chamfer idea. Once the tool design leaves the engineering department some copy writer turns it into something entirely different.

[@aceroadholder2185]

As others have said, the giveaway is that the drill is sized for near 100% thread. The only time you want a ~100% is for thin stock where you may only have one or two threads. One of my thread charts that gives tap drill sizes by % of thread notes that a 100% thread is only about 5% stronger than a 70% thread, but requires twice the power to tap. So unless, as you showed, you drill with a larger tap drill on thicker material getting that tap through is going to be a pain. If someone gave me a set of those taps, I doubt I'd ever use them. When doing sheet metal work I use self tapping drill screws and zip it together with one shot. Cheers from NC/USA

[@Xynudu]

It's enlightening to look at a chart of thread depth versus strength. Thread depth and strength are NOT in proportion, and a thread can be significantly large/loose yet still retain plenty of strength. It's an interesting subject. Cheers Rob

[@aceroadholder2185]

@@Xynudu The same thread chart also states that a given 50% thread depth, a standard bolt screwed in to a depth equal to it's diameter will break before it strips the thread in steel. I don't thread over 75% depth.. usually go for 60%/70%. On tough to tap materials 50% does the trick and on very thin sections, e.g. belt guards, I do go for 100% thread. Enjoy your videos and always look forward to seeing them. Cheers Orlin

[@MrLukealbanese]

Nice video Rob. Be interesting seeing them tested on Aluminium, brass and the like as well. Perhaps a bit of tapping lube in steel as well?

[@Xynudu]

Hi Luke, I had real difficulty keeping that video as short/long as it is. Sure it would be good to see how they perform in other materials, but it's all time. Basically they tap a thread very well considering there are only two cutting faces. Did better than I expected. The only big issue was the stupid de-burr/countersink feature, which is pure marketing BS. Cheers Rob

[@ChrisB257]

I looked at these some time ago - results pretty much as with yours. If I recall my 3mm one broke very easily. Seems a pilot hole is definitely a useful start as drilling seems rather iffy, particularly for the large sizes. They do have their uses but not for anything overly thick - and helping with use of some lube. I'm certainly not one to power tap very often - depending of course on material etc.

[@Xynudu]

Hi Chris, I remember that video. I can't remember if you tried the de-burring/countersink function (which is unworkable IMHO). Power tapping is too fast and too scary for me. I prefer to be in control at all times ;) And of course nothing can rival a broken tap to finish off the day. Thank god for beer. Cheers Rob

[@EverettsWorkshop]

Never tried this style, but with your testing they do about as well as I would have expected. I wasn't aware, however, how small the tap drill portion was in relation to the 60%-75% thread depth sized drill. That big 10mm looks like it's a significantly trickier one to use than the others though due to the torque required. Thanks for doing these reviews, a guy sees these tools on BangGood or other vendors' sites and it makes you wonder how well these tools actually work.

[@Xynudu]

It was an interesting review for me as I've never used this style of tap before. I had expected them to break more easily than a straight flute tap, but that wan't the case. Given Tek screws wide use in construction/fabrication I have serious doubts about the viability of this system, except in a few specialised cases.. Glad you got something out of it. Cheers Rob

[@spearmint47]

They're ideal for fixing onto tube or box section you can't get a nut into. Drill a pilot hole to help it along is a must. Keep the drill torque down a notch Quality depends on what you're prepared to pay for the best.

[@mickellis8747]

4 easy steps. Drill, tap, counter sink then strip. Do they have these in helicoil sizes?

[@Xynudu]

Only what you see.

[@Gottenhimfella]

I imagine it's not intended for countersinking, just deburring. Seems to me it would only work well if used in a small drill press with low rotational inertia, I'd switch off when approaching the end of the threading portion and the speed would "coast" down so that it stopped with a bit under one turn of actual deburring action, which would knock off the worst of the raised burr. I've tried that in my turret mill (I've got several sets from different sources, and one has the deburring feature) but there's too much inertia because it's a big heavy machine.

On softer steels and other metals, copper, brass, aluminium etc they will be very useful just a pilot a hole and off you go, a reasonable cut thread all for reasonable price, no messing with drilling then using a a tap wrench. How many times have you mislaid the drill or the tap has not been put away, this way you have the tap and drill together.

[@rogerhalcrow2358]

It’s possible to get bolts that work in the same way and I have used them to fix timber battens to steel frame work but you need a powerful drill with a clutch

[@Xynudu]

Yes, Tek screws and bolts are widely used these days in construction/fabrication.

[@regsparkes6507]

I bought a set marketed by Dewalt,..and I found what you di there at approximately the 27.19 mark, the bit portion needs to be fractinally larger for the threads to cut easier. MY experience was into 1/.4 inch thick mild steel flat stock and using a ( powerful ) 'Kango' drill on low speed. It ( or rather, I ) broke the tap off rather quickly before I had time to react. So now, I too, will use a slightly larger diameter drill bit first, as a pilot bit, then try my luck! Thanks for this test.

[@Xynudu]

You're welcome. Some people seem to like them and maybe it's an acquired taste, but reaction time seemed to be an issue. A cordless drill with a load clutch would probably do a lot better. I don't see a lot of need for them really as many bolt fasteners these days are self tapping. Cheers Rob

[@regsparkes6507]

@@Xynudu You know,... as I used them, I had similar thoughts,..:) " why do I need to waste money on this type of drill tap, when all I have to do is the old standard way of tapping this metal." So you are correct, I think! Cheers 2.

[@Equiluxe1]

Those things are really meant for use with an impact driver, I found that they kept breaking with a cordless drill but as soon as I started to use my impact driver as sugested by AVE I have had no more breakages, but they are only usable on 6mm or thinner. I also suspect that they are not high speed steel but carbon steel as they soon go blunt on stainless especialy 316. The de-burring or countersink portion of those tools are neither of those they are just a relic of the manufacturing proccess which is why they are not on the ones over 6mm diameter.

[@denis55ist]

Hi Rob. just got mine today . I was a bit worried when I saw your results with the 10mm . So I tried mine on some 5mm mild steel . Using a Makita cordless 2 speed and drill they worked fine . It will be interesting to see how long they last . But at the price I will probably just buy pile of them .

[@Xynudu]

Hi Denis, I think they are primarily aimed at less than 3 mm steel. Also the main issue was the so called "de-burring function". This is total marketing crap. You have insufficient control to be able to use that. The pilot hole drill being undersized is something every other review has NOT mentioned or realised. OK for light gauge where you want maximum thread depth, but wrong for thicker steel. As shown, you can get around this and material thickness by pre-drilling the pilot hole with a correct (larger diameter) drill. All in all a time consuming but very interesting review. Cheers Rob

[@denis55ist]

Well . I'l be buggered . just tried the 10mm on 10 mm mild steel flat bar . No worries at all . That must have been some tough shit you had in your lathe . pretty impressive the tap didn't brake . Cheers Denis

[@lindsayfog5246]

these are great for really thin metal as long as you pre drill and then pre tap the holes first. In years to come they will be found in the bottom of tool drawers along with broken tapping drillbit extractors and the broken ezy out extractors

[@Xynudu]

The thread strength in thin metal is a bit of a worry given only one or two threads are holding it all together. Much better to use a nut /bolt and washer for anything subject to end load. Tek screws fall into the same category. OK if the load bearing surface is pushing against the supporting framework and the screw is purely to position it. Cheers Rob

[@lindsayfog5246]

my sarcasm was directed towards the unnecessary inventing of new and increasingly pointless crappy tools

[@TheWhisleblower]

They are great in a low power battery drill vary speed you are over the top

[@theimprovementsguy8871]

Good god man, never go in dry

[@mrgreenswelding2853]

I have some and use the 5mm one when im putting Fuel senders in aluminium fuel tanks. Its only 3 mm ally though.

[@fun_ghoul]

Sounds like the perfect use for them.

[@ronsites2694]

Thanks Rob, looks like they would work maybe in plastic. Thanks for the video.

[@Xynudu]

Hi Ron, I expect so. I've never attempted to tap a thread in plastic. It should be extremely easy. Famous last words ;) Cheers Rob

[@RickRose]

First thing I thought on seeing them was that the "chamfering" function could turn into actually drilling away your nice, tapped hole. I would rather they left a relief behind the tap threads.

[@Xynudu]

Hi Rick, Yes, I totally agree. There is plenty of shaft length to do it. The whole countersink/debur aspect is nonsense. Cheers Rob

[@tomrspears]

Best to use with a good cordless drill with a brake. Corded drills like ur using wont stop all a sudden. They seem to be strong it didnt break

[@Xynudu]

Yes. That de-burring feature is the problem.

[@RockingJOffroad]

I’ve bought both imperial and metric drill taps, I like them when using a with cordless drill. Your electric drill was spinning the drill too fast. I have found them pretty brittle and will break off fairly easily. And forget about the chamfering with them, just stop when the tap gets through far enough for complete threads.

[@Xynudu]

Yes, that chamfer thing is just marketing BS. The rest seemed OK once I was set up correctly. Thanks for the feedback. Cheers Rob

[@AutodidactEngineer]

Why imperial man imperial is for cavemen

[@brentsmith5647]

Brilliant video thank you 👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍

[@Xynudu]

Glad you enjoyed it

[@uwemnyongetim4628]

How can I have it in Nigeria

[@pierresgarage2687]

As far as I like, the best type of drill to drive this type of combined drill/tap is a good quality battery operated drill and lube, usable but not best for thick stuff... Practical for on site work, though.... ;)

[@Lloyd.B.]

What should I look be looking for, for a decent m5 hand tap bit that can handle stainless steel?..

[@Xynudu]

Just buy a regular intermediate tap (3 or 4 straight flute) in HSS that is rated for stainless steel. Good taps are rated for stainless steel and only buy one if it is advertised as that. I've bought various Chinese HSS taps rated for stainless steel and never had an issue. They have been sharp and not brittle. Don't waste your money on those coloured coatings as they do nothing except dull the cutting edge. It's the luck of the draw, but I've never had a dud over many decades. Cheers Rob

[@Lloyd.B.]

@@Xynudu OK thanks.

[@macatac234]

ohh mann...can we all chuck in to get Rob a new drill....

[@vsvnrg3263]

ben, yeah, ones with keyless chucks.

[@rogelioconstantino2725]

Where to order

[@rsz90182]

It should have cut through. It's still a drill bit and is a threaded blade. I wonder if they are dull due to cheap quality control.

[@caskwith]

These work great in sheet metal when used in a cordless drill, useless for anything else though. Spiral point (non drilling) taps however are fantastic for machine or hand tapping. They also are very cheap from china and they are my first choice now.

[@Xynudu]

I was surprised how they stood up to abuse. Some people call them "gun" taps, so maybe that says something. Interesting item to review. Cheers Rob

[@caskwith]

@@Xynudu Oh yeah they are tough buggers. I have broken an M6 size when it got jammed in stainless but otherwise they stand up well. If you use them in a cordless drill you can go nice and fast for drilling the hole and then slow down and use the clutch for the tapping part, they last a long time then.

[@stanstevens3783]

Hi Rob, I believe a gun tap refers to pushing the chips forward. I have a set of these unused in the drawer. I wouldn’t use the term “ gun” as “great”

[@chrisnorth3458]

cordless drill or impact driver for driving those

[@fun_ghoul]

Impact is how you snap these in a hole. Don't do it.

[@vsvnrg3263]

@@fun_ghoul impact might be alright. not hammer though.

[@836dmar]

Good points. Besides, how could one chamfer with the cutting threads going all the way to the countersink? The threads will continue to pull the countersink into the piece. Flawed design IMO. Just use them without that feature?

[@Xynudu]

Yes. It's just marketing gone mad. The same countersink feature is on similar drills and would work in that situation, but not with a thread tap - no way. Cheers Rob

[@Gottenhimfella]

@@Xynudu I guess the user could grind away the cutting threads for a distance of one material thickness from the small end of the countersink portion.

[@Bigwingrider1800]

The only thing about they is there is a max thickness. And if you go thru with the tap and reverse to remove it can cross cut the hole . So you will have NO THREADS..

[@snowdog90210]

Seems to me these would be a lot more useful with a cordless drill, or even in a drill press with slower speeds and some cutting oil. That cordless drill is just too fast.

[@6lr6ak6]

Drilling to fast with no lube, best way drill slow use oil, l use an impact driver on 12 bar forward then reverse until done.

[@robmckennie4203]

In my opinion the only handheld drill you should be trying to tap with are the newer brushless tools. Boatloads of torque, even at low speed

[@Xynudu]

Any drill with a two speed gearbox can put out plenty of torque. That big Atlas Copco would win any argument with a cordless.

[@robmckennie4203]

@@Xynudu Absolutely they have a lot of power, but it seems like you were having trouble controlling the speed. The bldc motors have high torque, all the way down to zero speed

[@Xynudu]

I had no trouble with the Atlas power wise. The only issue was trying to creep up to and stop when using the so called 'de-burring function". This is total marketing crap.

[@robmckennie4203]

@@Xynudu I just jumped ahead to the part that you're talking about, and it does look like the tapping is actually completely fine at that point. I was talking about earlier in the video, where you're either stalling out, or ramming through at full speed, but that might have been on the lower powered drill

[@MOOTech]

To be fair id much rather them drill undersized to allow for a pre drilled hole than oversized and completely useless.

[@5150mkii]

Rob, when are you getting a mill?

[@Xynudu]

One day. Just have to make more room.

[@hedefeKrK]

I am sorry, but aren't these supposed to be used with screwdriver (on low gear) and impact driver? What is the RPM of a drill (that you use) and a screwdriver on low gear (that you had to be using)? With liquid and proper tool (on right setting) they do work fine.

[@Xynudu]

Look at what they are using in the Banggood advert/web page/link for these - regular electric and cordless drills. I don't see a screwdriver and you certainly would NEVER use an impact driver on a drill tap of any kind. LOL.

[@hedefeKrK]

@@Xynudu First of all, if you get offended that easily by a comment which is not disrespectful, I am just saying you should consider to either to upload videos to public or turn off comments. I used them, with a screwdriver, they work just fine. If used with liquid, works fine for a longer duration. Of course if you do not switch impact of a impact driver, it will be disasterous (ofcourse if your impact driver has a specification of that). Also, these sellers always do not give accurate information to their products. They might even show a drill in their page, for me which is not a reference. Maybe most people have drills but lesser have screw drivers, I don't know. I just checked 2 of my bosch drills; corded one is 740 RPM on first gear and 18v cordless one is 460 RPM on first gear. Now, I just googled 'optimum lathe rpm for tap' and top result thats been displayed automatically was; For best results, the speed of the spindle should be between 150 and 250 rpm. So, numbers says that, my drill is 3-5 times faster than necessary RPM. Good luck with your shop and work. Greetings from Turkey.

[@Xynudu]

I just follow the sellers instructions and call it how I see it.

[@Kim-nl5jk]

Hie I'm junior in korea university. Could I ask something about last video that titled "How to take apart a spark plug"? I have struggled to take apart spark plug(metal) from seramic by lathe. But it is hard to peel seramic by hard metal blad. I wonder you how to do it. Blad of lathe should be diamond things? Or there are any tips you can tell me? (I think it is impossible to take apart it 😭)

[@Xynudu]

The blade only has to machine away mild steel of the rolled edge, so HSS is fine. Carbide is better, as it won't be affected when it contacts the porcelain insulator. Cheers Rob

[@Kim-nl5jk]

Thank you for the answer. Another question:) I had succeeded to peel the seramic surrounding but I've found another difficulty. I can't apart head of plug. I wonder if you tell me how did it. Seramic in seramic...tight around its head. Very tight..

[@Xynudu]

The ceramic centre knocks out by using a punch on the centre electrode end (bend the small outer electrode back out of the way). I doubt that is possible to separate the ceramic core and centre electrode. I have smashed the ceramic core with a hammer and found the centre electrode to be a cast in fit with a knurled section to locate it securely. I don't think it is possible to separate the two centre pieces without destroying the ceramic. Cheers Rob

[@nigelberry9210]

Suppliers of 304 and 316 believe those alloys to be non magnetic. There are some stainless alloys that are magnetic, but not those two.

[@Xynudu]

Those are not the most commonly used stainless steel grades. You will find that MOST stainless steel in common use is magnetic. The non magnetic stuff is generally used for items like sinks, drainboards, urinals, etc. Look up 300 grades and you may actually learn something, rather than just quote selected parts of Wikipedia.

[@smallcnclathes]

Thank You for encouraging me to do some research. I have found that the 304 stainless you mentioned at around 11 minutes accounts for half the stainless steel produced worldwide. The 300 series alloys are austenitic and are non magnetic. Being non magnetic, 304 is the steel of choice for MRI machines There is a measure known as relative permeability for magnetism and for use in MRI machines the figure specified is 1.005. The figure for Aluminium 1.00005, Carbon Steel 100 and Iron 5000 This is from various suppliers of stainless steels and bodies like the British Stainless Steel Association. I checked Wikipedia and it seems to agree with all the other sources I found.

[@alterego4218]

@@Xynudu, In view of your reply to Nigel I thought that, as a metallurgist, I would interject here. I don’t quite know how to tell you this ace, but 304 stainless steel - which probably accounts for about half of all the stainless steel used - is most definitely NON magnetic. The people who manufacture and supply it are indeed (and unsurprisingly perhaps) quite correct in claiming it to be so. Just about all of the 300 series grades of SS are Austenitic and austenite is, well, just plain nonmagnetic, other grades are martensitic (most of the 400 series) while some are ferritic - a few are what is known as duplex. The martensitic and ferritic type are magnetic. Perhaps the confusion here comes from the ability of cold work - bending folding rolling machining and particularly drilling to cause some of the austenite to transform to martensite. This martensite is of course magnetic (weakly so when compared to a carbon steel). So, it’s not uncommon for an austenitic grade that has been cold worked to appear slightly magnetic. This is perhaps most often noticed with drilling swarf as the cold work in producing this is rather extreme. Some grades e.g. 310 are notorious for this martensitic transformation and one dare not stop drilling part way through as you might not be able to restart the drill in the now locally much harder martensitic material. Thus, you might test swarf and find it magnetic (sort of) but this does not mean that the base material the swarf came from is magnetic and if it was a 300 series SS it won’t be. I have a belief that if one is going to put information out there - YT or however - one has a responsibility to make sure it is correct. Perhaps a quick reference to at least Wikipedia might be in order (as a sort of putting brain into gear before engaging mouth thing) as I understand that the info presented there - AT LEAST With Respect To 304 SS - is tolerably correct, probably because it was written by someone with at least some metallurgical knowledge.

[@Rolingmetal]

Ask BG for a cordless drill and redo the video :) I don't see how that countersink/chamfer can work with the thread pulling it into the hole.

[@Xynudu]

Marketing gone mad.

[@bookerol]

My thoughts exactly... the "chamfer" section is just a transition from the larger shank.

[@ACNNOMOREBLUFF]

It seems you did not understood how it works. When you have drilled the hole, just go in, and never goes to the end or you will destroy your tap, lol :)

[@enrohau]

Rob, doesn't your drilling machine have a slower speed? Much too fast for those bits.

[@Xynudu]

Both corded drills have fully variable speed. Go too slow and the drill loses torque.

[@enrohau]

@@Xynudu Oh, OK.

[@wibblywobblyidiotvision]

Been there, done that, chucked them in the bin. As usual for cheapo chinesium drills, they don't drill worth shit. Than when you get to the tapping part, you're going to fast (necessarily, in order to get the power in there), any kind of control is going to result in stalling your drill out. Going into thicker material, you're gonna have a truly horrible time, because you need more torque, so more speed. Trying to do it with a drill driver with a clutch is a dead loss in anything more than about 3mm thickness. Oh, and they'll maybe last 4 holes before the tap part is totally screwed.

[@Xynudu]

Hi Michel, Sounds about right to me. I fail to see how a clutch can work on heavy gauge or trying to use that stupid de-burr/countersink idea. Tek screws can probably give the same result strength wise - in thin stuff. Cheers Rob

[@stephenonwood1986]

I think cutting oil would make a big difference.

[@Xynudu]

That's not how building fabrication works ;) I used lube on the lathe if you didn't notice.

[@secretsix6]

most people using them would have a cordless tool with a brake on it an if they have any sense would use cutting fluid

[@Xynudu]

How many tradies use cutting fluid when they want to paint over it afterwards. LOL. You have a bit to learn.

[@secretsix6]

@@Xynudu most tradies would some sort of thinners with them if they wanted it painting

[@SimjetAU]

I use these all the time. You cant use a electric drill. If you use them in a powerful good battery drill they work a treat every time. You were also driving it way too far in on the smaller ones. These came out a couple of years ago. I have been using them ever since...mind you I have broken a few off as well but mainly due to not holding the drill steady enough

[@zachaliles]

A guy i work with calls them draps. DRill taPS. I make fun of him relentlessly when he pulls them out of his box. Anything thicker than thin plate steel and they're useless.

[@benpress8884]

Not true. I've used them on 3/16 and 1/4 inch stock with no problems at all. Usually when a tool fails it's due to operator incompetence

[@rok1475]

zachariah liles do you really expect a $6 set to replace $50+ worth of drills and taps?

[@luist8868]

I got a set of these worthless drill/tap bits trash. I tried to drill and tap an aluminum bar with thickness to accommodate the drill length before starting to tap the threads and halfway up the shank, this worthless shit snapped.

[@Xynudu]

They are crap.

[@ZE308AC]

Add some drilling oil

[@redf7209]

Ones i bought advise to lubricate to cool with water. Problem buying these is that its hard to tell which are quality, you can easily buy something expensive that is identical to a cheap buy . Can you really rely on the description re metal content?

[@Xynudu]

You have to realise that all of the stuff sold by Banggood and other sales outlets is untested. The seller can only go on the details supplied by the manufacturer. There is no way you can expect ANY seller to test the products they sell - that is just not going to happen, for obvious resource reasons. They simply buy the products from the supplier in good faith. So it's quite possible that the retailer gets some lemons. Price should be indicative of quality, but that's not always the case. Some once well respected brand names are now just a shadow of their former selves as they cut corners to try and stay competitive. Cheers Rob

[@redf7209]

@@Xynudu Totally agree but I'm used to the world of electronics where there are people and media doing technical reviews and comparisons of products all the time. In the DIY world though brand names seem to be a wild west. Some of those once respected brand names became shadows because very often the original company that built their name on quality was undercut by cheap competition and went either went bust selling their name to the very people who undercut them or sold themselves to the same, dropping the quality mode at the same time

[@shawnmrfixitlee6478]

I bought some of those twice , I hate them ..LOL.. great vid but i would rather just old fashion the taped holes .. ENJOYED !!.. They seem to break so easy to.. THUMBS UP .. I AM NOT ONE OF THE 11 .. Not on your channel ..

[@Xynudu]

Probably some upset forum members. Although Banggood reviews do bring out the haters. He He.

[@shawnmrfixitlee6478]

@@Xynudu it's all good .. They work for thin stuff !! .. I did ENJOY .. And THUMBS UP !!

[@leoworrall9449]

Ah, broken taps are fun aren’t they ?

[@Xynudu]

Sure are. Thank god for beer.

[@Edu_RJR]

you kinda over spun some threads there mate 14:00

[@Xynudu]

I was amazed it still screwed up tight. There must be a small gap between the end of the thread cutter and the taper cutter. LOL that was hair raising.

[@georgeowen2083]

Lol that was hairy I didn’t like that at all. Let’s try it again. Lolololol

[@seaco33]

You must stop before bottoming out the drill bit or all your doing is ripping out the threads you just put in!

[@Xynudu]

I know that Lee. I was trying out the deburring/countersunk function mentioned in the write up. LOL

[@iteerrex8166]

As soon as I saw it I thought its a childish idea. The optimum rpm for drilling and taping are not the same. For thin material I guess one could slow it down as it gets to the taping part (lol good luck), but for thick stuff you either drill and strip the threads, or you tap and strip the thread again because its not drilling now. Its a joke, its some businessman's idea.

[@carneeki]

I have a friend who spends a lot of time up ladders who loves them. I do most of my drilling+tapping in a lathe or mill, I think, I'd find it an abomination like you. They probably have a place, but that place isn't the machine shop. Maybe welders and fabricators and people in construction it's a time saver?

[@iteerrex8166]

@@carneeki I guess for some special use for thin material in the field with no tolerance requirements. I have no use for it.

[@fun_ghoul]

@@iteerrex8166 I believe the genesis for these is actually Chinese industrial manufacture, where another businessman had the idea of saving on labour and machinery costs. Then, later, another such person had the thought to add the 1/4" hex end and sell them to individuals. They're probably a lot better on fixed machines than with a drill, that's for sure.

[@fun_ghoul]

@@carneeki It's probably not bad for thin-gauge sheet metal.

[@franktrapani4804]

you have no control on the drill once it starts to cut thread stop and go in slow

[@Beastt17]

Decent 3-minute video. Unfortunately, it took over half an hour. Obviously, the taps are cheap and moderately effective. But try NOT tapping threads at 3,000 RPM.

[@stevesherwin1]

Thanks Rob I will not be buying any

[@ryanmorman7253]

Way too fast drilling

[@craigduplisea1420]

To much talking,not enough showing