I turned my BUDGET Astrograph into a PREMIUM Scope! 😎 With CNC Mirror Mask and Spider!

Support me on Patreon!: / cuivlazygeek
Backyard Universe upgrade kit: tinyurl.com/3juwm5sz
Telescope link: bit.ly/3BABCxl
Flocking paper/Felt paper: amzn.to/3zASgvu or amzn.to/3m94zwa
Musou Black Pain: amzn.to/3MfYU0m
Cheshire eyepiece: bit.ly/3IlFC8u or amzn.to/3HJCP8J (examples, mine is the second link)
Collimation cap: bit.ly/3MAWL0y or amzn.to/3M1i3nR (or just make a hole in a cap you have lying around!!)
Collimation laser: bit.ly/3M8LRO8 or amzn.to/41aTkBF
OCAL collimator: s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_Dmu...
Backyard Universe: www.backyard-universe.de/
Astrobaby Collimation guide: www.astro-baby.com/astrobaby/...
Dobsonian Power Collimation video: • How To Collimate a Tel...
Our resident Newt expert and fanatic channel (Lukomatico): / @lukomatico
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My equipment
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Cooled camera: s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_DCY...
SW Quattro 150P Budget Newt: bit.ly/3BABCxl
Askar V Modular Telescope: bit.ly/3Imoq2M
or bit.ly/3GLuyR8 or tinyurl.com/2h758bvt
ZWO AM5 Mount: bit.ly/3BAS8x5 or bit.ly/3JeVUkn
iOptron CEM70: bit.ly/431Ii2U (successor of my mount)
MiniGuideScope: bit.ly/3MyUJhn
Celestron C6: bit.ly/3ocePVs
Hyperstar C6: starizona.com/products/hypers...
Mini Computer (newer version): amzn.to/3LQTgTJ and amzn.to/3K6x2vy
Cable management: www.etsy.com/shop/SmartCompon...
Camera: aliexpress.com/item/400135931...
IDAS GNB filter: idas.uno/space/en/IDAS/gnb.htm
Flocking paper/Felt paper: amzn.to/3zASgvu or amzn.to/3m94zwa
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Affiliate Links
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NEW Agena Astro Affiliate Link: bit.ly/3Om0hNG
General OPT Affiliate Link: bit.ly/2OIw6jH
General High Point Scientific affiliate link: bit.ly/3lReu8R
General All-Star Telescope: bit.ly/3SCgVbV
Dwarf 2 Smart Telescope: bit.ly/3SyChXu
General Amazon Link:
amzn.to/3hTB5Ne
Follow me!
My Instagram: / cuivlazygeek
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[@CuivTheLazyGeek]

Support me on Patreon!: www.patreon.com/cuivlazygeek Backyard Universe upgrade kit: tinyurl.com/3juwm5sz Telescope link: bit.ly/3BABCxl Flocking paper/Felt paper: amzn.to/3zASgvu or amzn.to/3m94zwa Musou Black Pain: amzn.to/3MfYU0m

[@JonnyBravo0311]

I'm pretty sure the motto for this hobby is, in fact, "it's ALWAYS broke, even if you've fixed it" 😂

[@fenice319]

Including me, I've been broke since I started with this hobby

[@CuivTheLazyGeek]

Hahaha this is so depressingly true!!! As Fenice says, even us operators are always broke!

[@marvinbaker4260]

Or..."If it ain't broke, fix it until it is."

[@wisedupearly3998]

Keep fixing it until you are broke

Nice video again Cuiv. I designed a bracket for my Celestron 8" Newtonian using FreeCAD and printed it on a 3D printer using PETG filament. I completely removed the old clips. The bracket I designed wraps around the mirror and securely holds it with just a 1.2-millimeter tab. The holding tabs of the clips are 5 millimeters long. As a result, there was no shrinkage on the surface of the mirror; in fact, the surface increased. To prevent the mirror from being damaged due to friction with the PETG bracket, I also designed a separate O-Ring and printed it using TPU filament.I would love to show you the photos, but unfortunately, I cannot upload pictures here.

[@studywithme8055]

Great, could you share the design by any chance? (btw, I Haven't met someone from Turkey that is into astrophotography till now, would like to chat with you).

[@MrMrduke1975]

I’m a year late, but dealing with the people at “backyard Astronomy” was great! Super nice and helpful, even to an annoying American like me lol. Thanks for these helpful tips!

[@nathanbarnard5997]

I don’t own an imaging Newtonian but I’ve been interested in getting one lately. This series on converting your cheap newt into a premium astrograph has been excellent for me to learn all of the ins and outs of how they are constructed and what parts to keep an eye on. Thank you very much! You’re a gem in the community and I have fun/learn every time you upload! I also want to fight you because my bank account is going to drop another $1000 after I do this for myself 😂. Clear skies from New York!

[@Mrcloc]

lol. I hardly breathe while I'm near my mirrors. My first objective is to get my optics perfectly aligned, and then to stabilize the mounting. At the moment it flexes way too much. I have an old blue 200P f/5 that I picked up second hand. Future plans: - Beef up all springs - Add a coma corrector - Replace the primary mirror (but I'll measure it first) - Replace the secondary mirror assembly

[@ekalbkr]

I question you are lazy, but you are a true GEEK. You diligence, knowledge, and skill is amazing. Watching your videos on this scope makes me want one. The end price seems well justified.

[@CuivTheLazyGeek]

Thank you so much!

[@TheArizonaman1]

Love the passing ‘Contact’ reference - ‘small moves Ellie’!

[@CuivTheLazyGeek]

I'm so glad so many caught this - I love Contact :)

[@bobbymccourt6794]

Felt or flat black paint over the primary mirror mounting screws helps tremendously

[@DrMiddy]

I love the idea of gluing a washer to the secondary holder. When I first removed my secondary mirror there was a dent caused by one of the 3 screws being over-tightened. This makes it difficult to fine tune the rotation of the secondary because the screw keeps pulling the holder back to the original position because of the dent.

[@McTavish11T7]

I don't even have one of these but felt the need to watch it all, lol. Interesting watch, thanks

[@CuivTheLazyGeek]

Glad you enjoyed despite it not being relevant to you :D

[@bbasiaga]

As a guy who has built a bunch of newts.....if you are thinking of doing this mod to your scope, install the secondary and spider BEFORE you put the primary mirror back in the scope! No chance to drop it on the primary that way. I almost had a heart attack, lol.

[@CuivTheLazyGeek]

Thank you!!

[@tommydowling6011]

I'm so glad you embrace 'Newts, they have so much potential for tweaking and upgrades. I bought a Baader Steeltrack-NT for my Orion 8" f/3.9 astrograph. I will do a review of the RB Focus base when it arrives. It seems like the best solution for the light leaks around the focuser base. I truly enjoyed your Newt upgrades but wish you went into more detail regarding spiders. I have another comment that mentions 4 different replacement spiders that vary greatly! Some have a hood around the secondary, some incorporate a ring instead of loose vanes, one has integrated secondary heater, 3 or 4 collimation screws? What's your opinion?

[@CuivTheLazyGeek]

In the end I'm happy with what I have, difficult to tell which I'd prefer! These days I'm thinking of getting a better focuser, but no idea what to actually take

[@rickbattle5706]

Hands-on Cuiv, the new you. Very interesting project and I do like the result. I vote for the cost being well worth it to get a better image.

[@CuivTheLazyGeek]

Thanks Rick, and thanks for your support!!

[@Rostol]

A newtonian is normally open, so it's not needed. But if you ever need a "clean room" to handle mirrors or lenses you can get pretty close to it if you saturate your bathroom with vapor opening a hot shower for 2 minutes (just the air full of vapor, not enough for wet walls) and let it sit for a few minutes, the vapor will drag 99% of the dust in the air down with it.

[@CuivTheLazyGeek]

Ooooh nice idea!! Thank you!

[@SmilingJ]

I am really impressed with the diffraction spikes you showed. I have my own replacement spider from backyard-universe for my 130pds for about 9 months, and I don't want to miss it, but especially on bright stars (e.g. pleiades) I have spikes that go across the whole image. They even disappear and reappear later. For collimation stability, I can only report good things (even without installing the provided washer since i had no glue on hand): after installing the spider, I collimated once and since then, never again. From time to time, I check with a laser, but if anything, I do small adjustments on the primary mirror. But that is so rare that I can't remember the last time I had to adjust anything. So far, this series about tuning the newt is really fun to watch, and I like these videos a lot.

[@krystlih]

Love it! I am seriously considering ordering this kit for my scope.

[@CuivTheLazyGeek]

Time will tell how well it works but for now I'm happy with it!

[@davidwildman1866]

with you been in a city center you may get light reflecting through the rear of the tube...simple cap on the outside of the rear of the tube, if the tube diameter is 200mm for a six inch scope the inner cap mask should be 120mm so it overlaps the primary diameter

[@johnbudden613]

Great video! Inspiring me to add the mirror stop to my Astro-tech 6in. The first thing I did was upgrade the focuser.

[@CuivTheLazyGeek]

Thanks John! Surprisingly for now the focuser is working pretty well with the EAF haha but I'm sure it will break down over time

[@bmur56]

What an interesting presentation Cuiv. I learned more on my newtonian in the 20 minutes of your vidéo than in the 15 years i've owned it. I had heard that the mirror clips could distort the stars but clearly understood their effect with your demonstration. I'll also take a look at my spider to see if there are improvements I can make based on your telescope transformation. Great practical advice, thanks!

[@CuivTheLazyGeek]

I'm so glad this has been helpful Bernard!!

[@pzellerphoto]

Cuiv, I am so glad for you, that you went with the Backyard Universe upgrade kit. I have the 200PDS and this upgrade kid was one of the first things I changed and it totally enhanced my experience with this "low budget" newton. I still see some shadows in your stars but my guess is that this comes from the focuser that sticks into main tubus. I’ve just shortened mine and got now perfect results. Nevertheless, this upgrade is already a game changer in regards of contrast and overall quality - especially the collimation is now so stable which saves me a ton of time. Again, I am so glad you did this upgrade, enjoy it and always CS ❤

[@CuivTheLazyGeek]

Yep, after the video I've adjusted the primary collimation screws so it is like 1cm deeper in the tube, so the focusing tube should protrude less! I'll be able to test once I get stars again!

[@Aztronoob]

Literally fitted a spider vein and mirror mask similar to this. Gamechaging! Great vid as always.

[@CuivTheLazyGeek]

Awesome! Thank you!

[@Kata_Mae]

I don't have a newtonian but I vaguely remember that these clips on the primary are usefull to look at the alignment when colimating.

[@CuivTheLazyGeek]

It's fine without - they're used as a marker to be sure the whole primary is reflected in the secondary but the mask can be used for the same purpose!

[@Bike_Guy]

Great video. I’m buying the same mask and spider, but for my 200pds. Can’t wait to see the results.

[@markparsons8494]

Thanks for this series on this telescope. I have been considering buying it my self and your videos are helping me make up my mind

[@CuivTheLazyGeek]

My pleasure Mark! If you're willing and able to spend time on it, it can be a great scope!

[@uschi414]

Another great video, Cuiv! Be sure and let us know how well the collimation holds after you get a chance to use it for a while. Thanks!

[@CuivTheLazyGeek]

Will do!

[@StarlancerAstro]

8:06 love the contact reference, I just picked up a GSO version, I think these parts can be used on it.

[@CuivTheLazyGeek]

Check with Backyard Universe just in case! And I love how so many got the reference!

[@AstroDenny]

This is great- I'm using these ideas on an old 8" ES newt I have. Should be some nice improvement if the rain ever stops!

[@CuivTheLazyGeek]

Ah the rain...

[@billmurphypenguins3774]

At last a practical use for these masks have been found, super duper.

[@CuivTheLazyGeek]

They've always been very useful in Japan for hay fever, to wear when you're sick and coughing, etc. Here they're everywhere, they're basic courtesy when you're sick, and I am mind-boggled by how much of a controversy they caused abroad when it's 100% normal here haha

[@jimwaters304]

Very timely video Cuiv. I will be modifying my 200P. Thanks.

[@CuivTheLazyGeek]

Awesome Jim, have fun!

[@netwolfstar]

Nice upgrades always wanted a imaging Newtonian, I saw an article long ago comparing a Apo refractor with a 8” GSO that made it tempting. One thing I wonder is if possible to have a tool less collimating screws for the secondary mirror. Something like bobs knobs for SCTs that allow you to tweak with hands rather than use a hex bolt or screwdriver that potentially could be dropped in scope or damage corrector plates.

[@CuivTheLazyGeek]

To be honest, I'm not a big fan of Bob's Knobs, I get the feeling I can't tighten them enough to have collimation hold... But I see where you;re coming from!

[@frankbraker]

primary mirror mask is a great idea!

[@lukomatico]

Oh mate, I love it!!! - This is an excellent video, so well recorded & explained! :-D Tremendous work my friend!

[@CuivTheLazyGeek]

Thanks so much Luke!!

[@astroguypodcast]

Thanks for this excellent video! This scope with the addons seems like a decent beginner astrograph. I imagine that the larger version is even better. It's a shame that they don't put a good stock focuser on it.

[@CuivTheLazyGeek]

Completely agree!

[@yobb89]

ohh nice, i have a skywatcher with those random glare star defractions, i'll try covering the clips

[@CuivTheLazyGeek]

Good luck!!

[@frankbraker]

FWIW: This comment on "CloudyNights" avoid the reduction in mirror diameter that the ring produces: "JimC #7 Replace primary mirror clips with silicon?: post #75u4 Posted 07 March 2012 - 06:31 PM One of the mirror clips on my XT8 broke, so decided to remove them & use 6 dabs of silicone on the back to hold the mirror to the cell instead. Haven't noticed any ill effects from the silicone. I've had a couple of other somewhat smaller scopes that had the primary attached with silicone & never had any issues, ie. DGM OA4 & 5.1 & a 4.25 Kutter. I recently decided to remove the XT8 mirror to send it in for a refigure. I used an .011 guitar string to slice through the silicone dabs. When I reinstall the refigured mirror, I'll use 3 dabs of silicone as 6 dabs was overkill IMO."

[@CuivTheLazyGeek]

Yes I've seen others do that, it makes sense to me! But I'm too afraid to change this and in a lot of cases there are some imperfections at the mirror edge anyway

[@NELLODIDIER]

Toujours aussi bien, de plus c’est très bien filmé.

[@BBROPHOTO]

I’ve been using this spider on my 200P for a bit and it’s been great. My primary reason was to remove the issue of diverging diffraction spikes as mine were AWFUL and no amount of tweaking would solve the issue. I just want to say, I’ve had my scope setup outside for about two weeks of lots of imaging, slewing about all over the place for solar during the day and then 3 targets in Ursa Major and Canes Venatici. My collimation did slip very slightly, however I think it’s simply because I didn’t have my secondary collimation screws that tight. I’m also proud to say I actually got these stocked at FLO as BU couldn’t import to the UK for individual buyers.

[@CuivTheLazyGeek]

Awesome, well done on getting those at FLO!!

[@JVRost]

There is another very important upgrade of the budget Newton. Especially on old pipes, 5+ years old. This is a replacement for the adhesive on the diagonal mirror. It is especially critically manifested in the winter period by additional optical distortions. I personally re-glued it and replaced the old hardened glue, similar to epoxy resin, with double-sided tape with foam about 1-2 mm thick. Aberrations leave the image forever. And if the mask for the Primary Mirror were closer to its surface, then this would further reduce the fluffiness of the stars. You have it set at a distance of the thickness of the mirror clamps.

[@CuivTheLazyGeek]

Thanks Volkov! While installing I had also noticed the secondary was not quite at a 45 degrees angle from the stem so was thinking about regluing it - what do you use to remove the original adhesive?

[@knight2255]

The ultimate would be for the mirror mask to be the hold down clip as well, perhaps new clips could be 3d printed and glued/screwed onto the mask.

[@JVRost]

@@CuivTheLazyGeek I cut it off with an ordinary clerical knife, with a new blade, heated the mirror bracket itself with a construction hair dryer, it is metal, the temperature on the hair dryer was about 100 °, my hands were made of fabric gloves, since my mirror was covered with paint, then after cutting off the bracket I immediately got a mark where to glue to the old place, if the mirror was not painted with black paint, then pre-outline it before cutting, lay the mirror with the front part on the cotton fabric and tried not to move it relative to the fabric. They are not all glued perfectly and by and large it does not matter, 44-45-46 °, since when adjusting you still set it according to the geometry of the pipe, and they are also all curves, in the end it's just a matter of vignetting, with new flange on Touptek, reducing the working length to 12.5 mm, the question disappears by itself. But what is more important for alignment is the marking of the secondary diagonal mirror by the offset point. Write to Google Offset point of a diagonal mirror - there is a good article on this subject www.deepskywatch.com/Articles/replace-offset-collimate-secondary.html or www.otterstedt.de/atm/mynewton.workshop.fangspiegeloffsetberechnen.php

[@JVRost]

@@CuivTheLazyGeek Another nuance, just yesterday I shot a video on this topic, until I posted it on my channel. The question concerns this terrible focuser)) The tilt of the camera matrix, no matter how carefully we set it, changes depending on the sequence of clamping the two screws of the entire camera assembly with a coma corrector in the focuser. Having run in ASTAP in the inspector, I got the results of skew from 57% to 10% !!!! Moreover, changing the rotation of the camera in the focuser each time is a different sequence. It's just awful))) That is, the compression ring itself has a slight backlash, but this is enough for the entire assembly to change the slope of the matrix. So yes - a budget Newton is a guarantee to turn you into an optics mechanic.

[@philleng480]

Great video and thanks Cuiv. 2 questions. With the new spider how do you adjust the secondaries postion within the tube - I.e making sure it is central ? Have you done any work on establishing if the camera/coma corrector/focuser assembly causes the tube to distort and droops? I guess this would show up in collimation at different angles - maybe this is what was causing your loss of collimation over the night?

[@samshornvibes]

You said that this modification is not in keeping with your laziness. I would argue the opposite, as you won't have to constantly recollimate your scope.

[@CuivTheLazyGeek]

Thanks Sam, you're actually right :) but it's more fun to pretend it isn't hehe

[@karlweiner5824]

Hi Cuiv, thanks for sharing everything related to this scope, very useful as I bought the same in March 2023 and I had the same problem will collimating using this OCAL collimator I was not able to see the complete main mirror with the camera, seems to be as well a misplaced secondary mirror and I read as well (on the website of another German shop) that there has been those issues with this scope delivered round March. Tomorrow it’s on his way back to the shop where I bought it, to get it fixed (it’s my first Newtonian, I don’t want to mess it up completely 😂). However I wanted to let you know that I have the better focuser on mine, it was delivered from a shop in Austria. CS Karl PS: I’m considering the same upgrades (light leaks and reflections) any as well the upgrades you are showing in this video. So thanks again for sharing this

[@CuivTheLazyGeek]

Oh wow, very interesting to know that this was a common issue for scopes delivered recently!! It's a bit unforgivable... Glad you're sending it back for adjustment, and very jealous of your focuser!

[@eXetusone]

I had also discovered the CNC machined spider + aperture ring for myself about 3 months ago. Hope to see the Carbon 10" tube soon :P I use these updates on both of my newtons (6" + 8" inches). I can only confirm what @cuiv reports here, it improves the results of the images in a big way. Great products, for me by now a "must have". Thanks Cuiv for your video and greetings from Germany

[@CuivTheLazyGeek]

Thanks for the further feedback!! Great to know!

[@adamdagosto570]

Great video. Well done.

[@adamdagosto570]

And you made me laugh...a lot.

[@neilsmith5883]

Love the vid cuiv, I find it quite amusing that your trying to fix what I love about the skywatcher newts.

[@CuivTheLazyGeek]

The jankiness? :D Or the star shapes?

[@michaelklemm-abraham7298]

I made the similar modifications on my 8" netwonian (f/5) over time. Especially the main mirror mask was a big change for me and lead to a lot better images. I can recommend those, but the secondary spider didn't change a lot for me.

[@CuivTheLazyGeek]

Plus the mirror mask is cheap!

[@LogansAstro]

And so the transformation begins.... Cuiv The 'Not So Lazy" Geek🤣.

[@divye.ruhela]

I want something that plugs/ insulates those light leaks at the edges of the primary mirror cell.

[@daviddebrito6565]

C’est très étrange de t’entendre en Français, autrement que par ton accent en Anglais 😁 Keep walking Cuiv’ !

[@CuivTheLazyGeek]

Hahaha merci David!

[@saerin5991]

Stars shape is important. It's an indicator of the sharpness of the optical train. The diffractions affect the whole signal somehow. :)

[@CuivTheLazyGeek]

Yep, the point spread function by which the image is convoluted

[@woody5109]

Based on the costs and frustrations of the upgrades, might just make more sense to just initially purchase a better scope?

[@CuivTheLazyGeek]

True - but the good ones are still far more expensive than this, so it's up to each!

[@mycarolinaskies]

The washer on the secondary back can be done on any telescopes with similar design for the small amount of money a washer costs. Though i would suggest using a thin plastic gasket or electrical tape to keep the steel and aluminum from direct surface contact. Spider vane thickness is a long standing aestetics in image debate. Using curved spiders does far more in that department.

[@CuivTheLazyGeek]

I see adding some tape sounds like a good idea!

[@AstroLeo2024]

Cuiv, I bought the Backyard-Universe CNC Spider for my GSO 150mm F/4 Newtonian, they do not have the mask yet, I cannot find the 3D printed website for the 63mm minor axis diagonal holder. Could you, please reveal where you found this part? Do you use Black 4.0 flat black paint? I flocked my 7" GSO steel tube and the thin metal spider vanes. Wow!~ what an improvement, great B&W ASI2600mm image of The Great Carina Nebula. Hopefully, the new CNC spider will produce an even better image.

[@CuivTheLazyGeek]

Try contacting Backyard Universe about that part! They should be able to provide it to you!

[@mikemccann8822]

Very timely!!!!

[@WArockets]

I've had that Backyard Universe kit bookmarked for a while now and after your review I talked to Michael at Backyard Universe about his Carbon tubes and he said he's had an enormous amount of requests since this video

[@CuivTheLazyGeek]

Hahaha I hope I didn't overload him!!

[@pleyenterprise]

If you buy the tube and the rest, feel like you don't need Skywatcher.

[@aradani3]

Hi Cuiv, Thank you for this video, I'm debating (with myself :) ) between getting the SW 150P and the Celestron C6 as my next scope. Since you have experience with both, I wander if you could do a comparison video between them, mainly which issues you had to deal with in each case... Thank you, Daniel

[@CuivTheLazyGeek]

Something I'll get to at some point :-)

[@ChristianPsencik]

I don’t have a Newtonian anymore but I still really enjoyed watching this :) great video as always 👍🏻👍🏻

[@CuivTheLazyGeek]

Thanks Christian!

[@NckBrktt]

I thought the point of the mirror mask was to exclude light from the edges of the mirror, which on cheap ones might be the most imprecise ("rolled down edges"), not to hide the clips ? The thin spider vanes on the SW scopes are supposed to be a feature - .5mm thickness compared to 1.8mm thickness of CNC ones, but I think this is only marginal as the light blockage is only increased by 0.5% by the thicker ones. Not sure why you need a 3mm thick CNC mirror mask. DIY ones are made of thin plastic and sit against the mirror. I always thought the visible clips are also useful as collimation aids to check the secondary is central, so trimming off the clips removes this ? Not convinced by your "results". Jury out on this upgrade, but nice to see someone testing it. Thanks for showing this.

[@Mel-127]

A very usefull video as usual, even if you did break my concentration with your quick dry humer. 😂 Clear sky's to you Cuiv.

[@CuivTheLazyGeek]

Hahaha glad I could break your concentration like that :)

[@javierafeltra2840]

Excellent video; like all the others, very educational. I also have a Nw150/600, but besides having to add the accessories you show in this video, I have to change the focuser, it's not very good, it works with friction; if I adjust it too much, the electronic EOF doesn't move it; if I unadjust it just a little, the coma corrector + the camera + the filter grid fall down. Do you have any advice on good focusers?

[@davidwildman1866]

omg for a lighweight 6 inch mirror you could have used a tube of silicone fish tank sealant to glue the primary to the cell using 3 blobs of the sealant about 15mm in diameter which would mean not using clips or the new mask so full aperature mirror

[@CuivTheLazyGeek]

The edges of the mirror are a bit rough though, so you'd ideally still want a mask!

[@GregShaw]

I mentioned it in one of your earlier videos. Have a look at the Moonlite focusers. All CNC machined and solid. I have one on my 150PDS

[@CuivTheLazyGeek]

I've used Moonlite in the past :) But I want to hold on to this cheap focuser for now

[@GregShaw]

@@CuivTheLazyGeek Oh I understand the moonlites aren't cheap. It's a shame I sold my old dual speed focuser which wasn't to bad last year, would have sent it to you to try.

[@qzorn4440]

si ce n'est pas cassé, ne le répare pas 😎 great video. 🥳

[@cosmoscarl4332]

This is good for beginners on a budget. I've noticed that there aren't a lot of great dedicated cameras for Newtonians. It's just not the choice of telescope for serious or advanced astrophotographers. The most frequently used telescopes for the serious astrophotographers are 1. Triplet apochromatic refractors. 2. Ritchey Chretien reflectors. 3. Schmidt Cassegrain telescopes. I've heard Maksutov Cassegrains are popular for planetary imaging, or just a straight Maksutov. You may as well save longer and not waste the money on Newtonians, although I have captured some fantastic images with my 10" Orion f/3.9 Newtonian astrograph and a DSLR. That particular telescope is now a collectors item, in that is is no longer made. It's a fantastic telescope for imaging, right out of the box, but, you should be prepared to buy a really great set of collimation tools as these fast Newtonian astrographs have very little tolerance for misscollimation. I would recommend Catseye collimation tools. The full set is over $ 400 US but well worth it. There is a lot of ambiguity out there about Newtonian collimation. I recommend that collimation kit,(which also comes with better center spots for your primary, plus the templates to get perfect placement of your center spot, most importantly it comes with a two hole autocollimator called the Black Cat XLR I believe, that helps you get almost perfectly collimated optics.) That extra offset pupil peep hole will show you the most minute misalignment. Can't be beat. Ocal is only good for the first two or three steps, perhaps, in the proper collimation procedures. Look up Mikehotka.com. He has the best collimation for Newtonians article i have found anywhere. These people really know their stuff and cut through all the bullshit and head scratching when collimating Newtonians. Or you could just wait and buy a better telescope. The sky will always be there. Long after were all gone.😮

[@CuivTheLazyGeek]

Thanks Carl! Everyone recommends the Cat's Eye but honestly every time I went on their site, I just got completely and utterly confused about what I would need to collimate... I'm thinking OCAL plus final collimation on stars is probably good enough!

[@cosmoscarl4332]

@@CuivTheLazyGeek Ocal is a wonderful product but is only good for rough collimation. For f/ratios below f/5 you need the auto collimator. Catseye makes the finest autocollimator out there. Simply because it has the offset pupil. Really all you need is a tight fitting sight tube with crosshairs perfectly centered, a Cheshire eyepiece and the autocollimator. I have actually made my own sight tube from a plumbing fitting from the local hardware store that fits the Sena,(Orion,Skywatcher), focuser draw tubes perfectly, that way you do not throw the crosshairs off center when you tighten set screws on the cheaper focuser. I do not have the Cheshire eyepiece but I have had great results using just the sight tube and a Farpoint autocollimator. I will be getting the Catseye collimation kit though because it comes with two of the most important tools. The dual peep hole autocollimator, known by Catseye as the offset pupil, (Black Cat XLR), I think its called, and the kits come with templates and hot spot or triangles for replacing the doughnut center spot. The reason for the autocollimator and the new center spot is that the autocollimator with two peep holes, coupled with better center spots, radiation symbol, give you multiple reflections of the inverted hot spot that you can perfectly fit with the un inverted hot spot to achieve near perfect collimation. A must with faster Newtonian astrographs. Please look up Mikehotka.com and the article he posted by Donald E. Pensack called, Collimation And The Newtonian Telescope V.4. Once you understand this article, you will never suffer any headaches with Newtonian collimation again.

[@iamjessieray]

Cuiv, I have loved watching you tinker with this telescope and it has made me want to fiddle with my scope, it's little cousin the 130p-ds. I love it, but it doesn't suffer from some of the same issues

[@CuivTheLazyGeek]

Don't forget to not fix it if it ain't broke? Haha

[@IMCDundee]

Nice job!

[@CuivTheLazyGeek]

Thanks Ian!

[@user-ft8vm8ic5k]

THANK YOU! it's a wonderful video. I also have this model. but how do you adjust the 0.4mm offset? Do you have to tighten the screws as you did with the original spider?

[@Titanium1500]

As for the focuser, I got mine (UK) 3 months ago, and I had to wait for it to come back in stock (so almost certainly not an early batch), and it is the better focuser. So it still seems a bit of a mystery as to which ones have which focuser. Mine also seems to have arrived with better collimation, as I've not had to make the changes you did in the previous video, but the background appears flat anyway. It's almost like there are two completely different versions of this scope, and there's no way to tell which you're going to get. Given this, I think I'm going to stick with what I have for now, but the upgrade definitely looks like something I'll end up doing at some point in the future.

[@CuivTheLazyGeek]

Very interesting! It really is a mystery, and it's really annoying too! Glad you got a good sample!

[@MPAstro]

Awesome review Cuiv, I have done a similar baffle mod which is manufactured by WEGA about a few months ago in my last video THE NEED FOR SPEED 2, and I can defo back up you here mate, that the baffle mod indeed really here is it does help to reduce the halos and extra spikes around stars and sharpens them quite alot. Thank you again that is another mod available and tmany thanks for highlighting that it can be fitted with the Quattro series, I will indeed try that secondary mod myself for my 8" Quattro, that CNC Secondary mod looks well built, I love to know where you got that shade surround for the secondary mirror, though I have already darkened the secondary miirror and fitted a dew band heater, it's not really needed me.

[@ssrattus]

Well done!

[@CuivTheLazyGeek]

Thank you!

[@viniguez487]

double like for the Contact reference!

[@CuivTheLazyGeek]

Glad people are noticing it!

[@DrawsACircle]

I’ve done the exact same upgrades to my 200pds, I printed a primary mirror mask and bought the Artesky sekundary mirror spider - stars looks amazing 👍😊 “Contact” 😊

[@heavyjohnny]

Did post the STL files by any chance….

[@CuivTheLazyGeek]

Good catch on the Contact reference :)

[@DrawsACircle]

One of my favorite movies @@CuivTheLazyGeek 🙂

[@billblanshan3021]

Very cool build Cuiv, good job buddy!

[@CuivTheLazyGeek]

Thanks Bill!

[@apg.7461]

Hello Cuiv, i have the Same Newton and cnc mirror Mask and Spider. But the Spider generating reflexes and the Solution is flocking the spider vanes.

[@CuivTheLazyGeek]

Oh more flocking to do........ What kind of reflections were you getting?

[@urex8999]

I liked the "Contact" reference.. well played

[@CuivTheLazyGeek]

Thanks Rick, glad so many got it : 😁

[@nikanj]

I've done the same mods (3d printed except the secondary mirror holder) to my Quattro 200. They make a world of difference and make the Quattros images comparable to far more expensive scopes like the Sharpstar HNT or Takahashi Epsilon in my opinion. I give you at most a couple of weeks before you replace the focuser. It'll probably cost more than the scope itself but will make life so much easier. Also I don't think you still have your Starizona Nexus but it's compatible with this scope if you're really feeling the need for speed.

[@CuivTheLazyGeek]

Thanks Myrmidon! I agree those upgrades make the scope formidable - I just wish SW made a premium Newt! For now F3.5 is good for me, plus I'll be able to use normal narrowband filters!

[@baz_astra]

Great video! A question: what are the pros and cons of placing the aperture mask against the primary mirror vs. at the other (open) end of the telescope?

[@CuivTheLazyGeek]

Well, the light rays that come into the scope are parallel, but to cover parts of the sensor that are away from the sensor they are slightly angled wrt the OTA, so having the mask at the front may actually not be enough!

[@The3DP]

great tutorial! Are these compatible with the GSO newtonians as well? I have a 6" and a 10" that would need the same treatment

[@CuivTheLazyGeek]

That I don't know, but I think you could contact the maker from their website to ask!

[@gregmckay666]

Nice "CONTACT" reference in there!

[@CuivTheLazyGeek]

Glad you noticed Greg :D

[@WilliamBlakers]

Could get a mate with a 3d printer to make a mirror clip mask, and a shroud for the secondary. It's interesting that you don't like the thin spider vanes. I've seen others actually machine their spiders down to get them thinner. Perhaps just an extra shim of metal super glued to them could make a difference?

[@CuivTheLazyGeek]

Yep I've seen people going crazy with the spider vane thickness - I'm used to thick vanes (coming from the R200SS) so I'm fine with that!

[@babaorume]

8:05 bien placée la petite référence à Contact ;)

[@CuivTheLazyGeek]

Je suis trop content que la référence ait été remarquée !

[@DSOImager]

Cuiv, The Pixel Peeper 🤣 The constant collimation of newts is what has kept me from them. I want to just turn my rig on and kick off the sequence.. without having to do checks.. like collimation. I'm very interested in hearing how the collimation holds up over time with these mods. CS!

[@andreamarini1680]

Hi. Your videos are very good. I see your setup and I think how did you balance your setup? I see camera, focuser…everything is ahead…if I did the same my set up …turn left alone…🤦‍♂️

[@CuivTheLazyGeek]

Yeah the balance is terrible - would really need to do 3D balancing

[@andreamarini1680]

@@CuivTheLazyGeek 3D balance? What do you mean with that? Mmmm I‘ m not I am sure I got it. Did you do a video about that? (Many thanks!)

[@hbmike47]

As you say .. Do as you say, not as you do. The scope should be nose down when working on the spider/secondary. Working to remove or reattach the clips and primary mask you should cover the primary mirror. You need to make something freestanding that doesn't touch the mirror. It's tough to cover the entire mirror but at least the part near where you are working needs protection. From falling screws or screwdriver. Alternate idea: Put tbe mirror on a slanted surface so if a ,screw falls it won't hit the mirror

[@namoruson]

Thanks Cuiv, I followed your suggestion

[@CuivTheLazyGeek]

Hope it worked for you!

[@namoruson]

@@CuivTheLazyGeek yes it works! sussessfully tested with my 150P quattro.

[@namoruson]

Hi Cuiv, could you suggest me a cover for the primary mirror of the 150P quattro? Currently I use a textile cap to avoid light infiltration, but is not the best. Thanks in advance

[@Jim-is9jc]

Many thanks! I did it !! I upgraded my telescope! But i am not sure about the distance has to be between the secondary miror and the spider. I don't know how much I should tighten the central screw. Do you have any advice?. Very nice video again!!!

[@avananana]

As a wise man once said; "If it ain't broke, it's still broke". Or something like that. That's just life with hardware :^)

[@rashie]

👍👍- Great vid! Thanks Cuiv!

[@CuivTheLazyGeek]

Thank you!

[@alimartins6669]

Great video cuiv. So, what would be the alternatve to a better 6 inches f/4 reflector below USD800? Not a big fan of going to all this work

[@anthonygraham6449]

Don’t know if you are short of ideas for videos. But I would really like your approach on things. If you could do a video on guiding. I know you talked about it before. But understanding pixel scale and rms with different range scope and guide scopes. Even OAG is not exactly the same. Like here is something that confuses me if I change guide scopes with the same camera why do it seem my mount gives the same rms. But I know the tracking is different. What effect rms and how to improve it along with tracking results. Pixel scale vs rms. Example .5 rms with a 5 to 1 ratio vs .3 rms for a 7 to ratio. What is better. Lol. I don’t know. We need you to deep dive. Please. And why to we need you to do it. Because we are lazier then you. Lol.

[@CuivTheLazyGeek]

That's actually a great idea, thanks for the suggestion!

[@RalphBidner]

Good video ✌️ I installed the spider from Backyard Universe half an year ago and i'm still impressed. No more strange star spikes 🌟 Do you have a link for the 3d printed secondary mirror mask?

[@Chessendgames4235]

Did you managed to source the secondary mirror mask!?

[@RalphBidner]

@@Chessendgames4235 No sorry...

[@AstroDragon33]

I don't understand how the rubber clamps could bend/pinch a 1in+ thick glass mirror and deform it. When the newt slews around, the mirror could lift off it's base and not reset to the same spot, ruining collimation during a planed object change. To me, it seems leaving a small space (even paper thin) would cause issues. Can someone explain?

[@CuivTheLazyGeek]

Yep it kind of confuses me as well, but even microns of deformation will have an impact!

[@juliandaffern9556]

Next door's washing looks like a queue for a very strange club

[@CuivTheLazyGeek]

Shhhh don't look :p

[@astrofromhome]

I have now 3d printed a mirror mask for my PDS150 from Skywatcher. The Spider have replaced two days ago with a similar one like you show in the video. Mine is from Aliexpress as I don't want to invest too much into the PDS150. Unfortunately minimum the next one to two following weeks are going to be cloudy in my area. Did you test the spider without the flocking on the vains? I have the flocking material received seperately but I did not know until watching your video for the second time now where it should be put. I hope that I am going to test my super-charged New't soon. 😊

[@Luftbubblan]

🎉 Very nice

[@CuivTheLazyGeek]

Definitely! It feels much nicer now!

[@videotrexx]

And... I was wondering why the mask that shows n the thumbnail for the video... good idea, as we ALL should have a supply of them these days!

[@CuivTheLazyGeek]

If I'm not talking I think it's fine without a mask, but when actively talking/explaining while handling mirrors I thought it was better :D

[@eddieua1]

Does the washer at the spider help in your case? I want to try it on my SW150PDS as my spider screws eat a deep dent to the spider which, I guess, may make secondary mirror adjustment more difficult.

[@CuivTheLazyGeek]

I feel it does, as I'm seeing less rotation of the secondary while tightening the screws

[@PtiteSerra]

Hi Cuiv, thanks for the video! Very interesting. Maybe I missed it but, do you have a link for the secondary 3D printed "butt plug", please?

[@CuivTheLazyGeek]

I don't have a link to it yet! Seems it will be offered later!

[@jeeenyus4385]

Cuiv the hardest working lazy geek.

[@CuivTheLazyGeek]

Yeah, not so lazy anymore!

[@dumpydalekobservatory]

Interesting product I wonder if they have one for a 250P?

[@CuivTheLazyGeek]

Looks like they do! www.backyard-universe.de/en/p/upgrade-set-sw250-secondary-spider-and-primary-mirror-mask

[@mikehardy8247]

If I'm stating something already mentioned in the comments, sorry. SW didn't want to sell a $800 scope, as you questioned. They wanted to entice the bargain hunters. At a price most could afford. A decade ago I was going to buy an all in one setup for $500 ish. One needs to spend a lot of time doing careful research before wasting money on this hobby. I did, and my rig is about $4,000. I think that's fairly reasonable. You could cheep out, and in the long run waste a lot of money. I'm pretty handy, and could do what you have. Thanks to your free guidance others can too!