I wish I knew about this before - woodworking

[@stinkytoomey]

Lots of great woodworking youtubers do these kinds of tips videos, but I can honestly say these were some of the most useful I’ve ever seen packed into one video. Thanks!

[@Lincolnstww]

Glad it was helpful!

[@letiziacapra8947]

I have done some woodworks in the past but this woodwork plan kzbin.infoUgkxZF0EMnrujZvqHhGkxiz559uIABJWR9TG helps me do much in a far lesser time than i used to do i have already built several projects with this plan and i intend to do many more soon. Thank you so much!

[@CadenArmstrong]

Heres my tip: When I'm setting a jointer fence, or a tablesaw blade back to 90 deg, I have trouble telling if it matches my square perfectly. What I do is put a flash light behind the square, any gap between the square and the blade/fence instantly becomes super easy to see.

[@HuntsWorkshop]

I like to use a scrap board on each end of the glue up to reduce the number of clamps. Something wide, but same thickness and at least the length of the glue up. It creates a much wider and more even pressure zone on the actual jointed boards. Also eliminates the need for little scrap pieces to not mess up the project board edges. Nice T-Shirt btw love it!!

[@Lincolnstww]

Thats a fantastic tip - never thought of that

[@meperson]

Yep I do the same given limited number of clamps I have!

[@coaltowking]

If you use slightly bowed boards, it will help even out the pressure. I do this when gluing things where I can't get any clamps in the middle.

[@daveortwine2641]

@@Lincolnstww i gained a lot more respect for you when you told the people crying about you using imperial and not metric to kick rocks

[@docolemnsx]

Just remember to wax the aid boards you don't want to get glued up in there.

[@ShopNation]

Dude, the right hand rule for figuring out which way the router should go against the fence is genius! I'm pretty sure I guess wrong every single time.

[@WoodcraftBySuman]

Chemists and engineers hate him! They've been using that rule for centuries! This guy just went ahead and applied it to a router. lol

[@brewtalityk]

the right hand rule also tells you the direction electric fields and magnetic fields propagate in relationship to the direction of current

[@WoodcraftBySuman]

@@brewtalityk Yup. And can also be applied in organic chemistry and physical chemistry on similar principles.

[@ReadySetBuildIt]

Big facts

[@Lincolnstww]

I still have days when I forget left from right

[@CDI-WW]

I never thought of using drill bits as setup blocks, I'll definitely use that in the future. Great video!

[@vincentking8874]

Yup! I’ve literally been debating setup blocks for two weeks while staring at an expansive collection of drill bits.

[@dustinlight4716]

I had this unreasonable fear that drill bits were somehow less accurate that setup blocks.

[@makomako5301]

but put the drill bit at 90 degrees from the blade. not sure why he put it parallel with the gap.

[@unclebob8746]

Mike your bit first... not all bits are accurate.

[@johnnichols8553]

I was blessed with a nice set of Mitutoyo gage blocks back in high school that someone just gave me, that I had no use for at all until I started woodworking. I'm glad I saved them!

[@Pencilneckgeek216]

Rather than applying more clamps to a smaller glue-up, like the cutting board, you could just add a wider spacer board to the edge to increase the distance to the closest seam. That'll ensure your seams are within the effective clamping area, though you may need some fairly large clamps to do so. Loved all the drill bit tips though!

[@nelus7276]

But, but, but, a clamp has another end too. And that applies pressure on the other side of your piece. I mean, nothing is moving, there must be an equal counter force. And the triangles of force coming from that other side will definitely cover the seam on this side, won't they? I'm so confused.

[@dougpisik]

@@nelus7276 True…sort of. The clamping force is really where the fan out from both sides intercept. For that reason, a spacer board or extra clamps are needed.

[@dougpisik]

Eric, exactly how I usually handle this! Spot on.

[@Skiballer]

@@nelus7276 I would agree with you on that. I thought that myself when he was explaining this.

[@ltinius1988]

@@nelus7276no, because you need force from both sides. That very first triangle has no force from the side your clamps are on. Yes there is force from the OPPOSITE side, but no force from the side you’re on. Think of it like this, put your hands together and push in towards each hand. Then move one hand and push again. That’s what those spaces between those triangles is like, one hand pushing against nothing.

[@gavinkelley5276]

60 seconds into this video, people are already going to be reaching for that subscribe button. Any time someone can convey a complex concept so well with visual aids and no wasted words, I think it reminds us all of that one teacher we had whose lessons were so easy to comprehend that it was like they had opened up our heads and dumped the knowledge directly in :)

[@bryan__m]

Heh, I'm 60 seconds into the video and I paused to see if anyone else thought that the clamping force should be coming from both sides, so the full edge would still be under force. I don't see any, so now I'll keep watching to see if he covers it.

[@ilive4livemusic]

I really like your presentation style - relaxed and engaging with a nice sprinkle of self-deprecation. Keeps me coming back.

[@truvc]

As a programmer whose a complete novice at woodworking, these tips are invaluable. So much wisdom in one short video. Thank you!

[@ScarletEyeMoon]

I got a great tip. Most furniture makers use mechanical pencils, 0.5mm for accurate marking. Yes they are accurate but they break easy and have an inconsistent line. I also sometimes use carpenters pencils, but they are time consuming to sharpen and don't produce a consistent line. I started using 2mm mechanical pencils about a year ago and they're perfect. They're easy to sharpen, they produce an accurate line every time and don't break so easy like the 0.5mm and they're also cheap. I use one with an HB lead and I also have a spare one with a yellow lead for dark surfaces or metal. Pica has one with a 2.8 mm lead, so because of the odd size the leads are harder to get and more expensive, I heard they're good too but a 5$ Steadler one is just as good.

[@Rezornch_and_Dvelenktronx]

Excellent information! Thank you for sharing!!!

[@inmyimage1081]

thumbs up and food for the algorithm for the router tip.

[@timkoh363]

Truly the BEST woodworking tips! Thank you for sharing your knowledge!! The ones about the drill bits actually blew my mind! I so appreciate the rapid fire style rather than the drawn-out-4-minute-intro-then-get-into-the-tips like many others do

[@macklyn]

I love your videos. The humor is spot on and the information is even better. Thanks!

[@stub_craft]

I've seen a number of "woodworking tips" videos, but this one of the better ones by far.

[@marcmatthews7977]

Very clear and concise informtion. Having failed woodshop in 7th grade, I have spent 40+ years in the building trade and having spent the past 25 in high-end millwork, I have had many obstacles I had to overcome! I have a simple jig that allows me to make all my sheet good parts square edged and put miters on whichever edges may require a miter, all at the same time

[@gregladow3044]

These were all great tips! Keep up the excellent work! And it’s great to see a woodworker who’s not pushing all the new tools and trying to get tools shipped to themselves for free! I love your passion for woodworking!! Ps Your sons bulldozer bed looked awesome!!!

[@yoelai]

Something is bugging me about the clamping pressure theory. In the cutting board example, there seems to be lack of pressure on the closest seam. BUT, the pressure cones should extend not just from the front jaws but from the rear jaws as well, which should cover these spots in the closest seams. Can you actually try it? Great video, as usual :)

[@ianboreham454]

The clamping pressure will dissipate over distance as the "cone" widens, so it will not be as effective on the far side of the board. It also wouldn't be even across the cone - it will be strongest in line with the clamp and drop off the further sideways you go. So the rule is an approximation and shouldn't be relied upon as gospel. Other factors such as the straightness of the board edges will also affect how much clamping force and how many clamps you need.

[@manuelponce-julien691]

The pressure cone doesn't extend from one end up to the other because it is actually a pressure "diamond" (made from the intersection of 2 cones, one from each end of the clamp, facing each other). Since parts of the closest seam fall outside of these pressure diamonds, the joint lacks pressure. This is actually true for the first board on each side of the clamping setup, not only on one side as it might have been understood from the video.

[@brodavis25]

@@manuelponce-julien691 Thank you for that. I knew something was off with that theory, but it's been a long time since physics classes.

[@Lincolnstww]

Yeah what Ian said - at the end of the day this is an oversimplification of a bunch of factors. I didn't even touch on the density of woods species and the effect that can have. The moral of the story - narrow boards need more clamps to get consistent pressure.

[@Garuda1415]

Despite the replies above, I agree that Yoel is correct. I was intending to voice a similar observation, until I saw his comment.

[@Not_TVs_Frank]

My tip is a little different. I make sure there are casters on all my shop furniture. I don't have a lot of room, so sometimes I roll my bench and table saw cabinet out of the garage and into the driveway. But in general, it's nice to be able to quickly and easily rearrange the furniture around the space. It also helps for clean-up and retrieving small lost objects from behind heavy stuff.

[@llll_flowers]

Just started studying fine woodworking in a local shop and have some tips that have helped me a lot; when drilling into the side of something place a ring on the drill bit and if it moves either forwards or backwards you’re not going straight, the key is for the ring to not move. When doing 45° miters like in a box and find that you have small gaps in the joint squish some glue in there and then use a screwdriver to round over and close the gap.

[@icer22x]

Every single one of these blew my freaking mind. Also, I want all your merch. Also, your sense of humor is spot on.

[@waynehanshue712]

Damn. I just found you. I’ve been woodworking forever. I’m 65 and you have awesome inspiration and information. Thanks so much.

[@richardslater677]

Excellent. I love the really quick all info, no filler style. Great tips too.

[@reclaimwoodworking7538]

Tip: I keep a pack of cheap emery boards in my shop. If you get a bit of glue in a 90° angle, they make it simple to sand out. Also, they're great for impromptu mani/pedis.

[@geolisadrag-racing2349]

Great tip RE:, I use emery boards when i need to knock down wood fuzz, or clean up glue, while being careful not to take away any measurable amount of wood. I Love them, for between the "fingers" on box joints, dovetails and splines. While you are in the nail polish aisle; grab one of the 3 in 1 or 4 in 1 files (hell, grab a half dozen if you are in the dollar store) They have sides with super fine grit and a burnishing side. They are amazing for pore filling and CA glue finishing small parts and lathe turned pieces. I also use the burnishing side on router profiles, edges & beads on boxes & frames; so, i have some lines more polished than others for more light reflection and controlled highlights. These tips, in the comments, are all great! Thanks everybody for sharing ~ 🛠Lisa♿

[@jamesbruce3105]

The tip to use the rounded part of the router base is amazing. I've always used the straight edge!

[@danthemakerman]

Really good tips, I like that you got straight to the point and didn't meander.

[@FishTV2011]

Most useful woodworking tips video I've seen in quite a while. Love the idea of using drill bits as gages.

[@rbzbreezy]

As someone who’s fairly new to woodworking, thank you for taking the time to do this. This is super helpful and I’m glad I’m learning these tips early on. Love your videos bro!

[@danjparsons80]

Great tips! Thanks for sharing. With my forstner bits, I will start them in reverse to prevent tear out and makes a nice clean hole.

[@danjparsons80]

@@jamisonr It should score the top of the material you are drilling making a clean line. Let me know what you think.

[@spacekb17]

Works with hole saws too

[@Brangustx]

Even better if my drill press were reversible

[@RelicsandRocks]

Blown away by the drill bit thing. Brilliant.

[@andrewbrown8148]

Great video~! I love the Star Wars shop theme too. The right-hand rule for router direction is perfect~! Now I just have to remember it. Thanks much~!

[@TheGingerStig]

You sir have just earned yourself a new, very enthusiastic subscriber!

[@BlakePizzey]

You done it again. Give me more. I have so much more love for drill bits now.

[@LarryB-inFL]

What a GREAT tip about the flat vs rounded side of a router base!!!! Better than setting a clamp to "remember" your fence setting, I put blue painters tape down and put fine lines corresponding to where the fine line on the saw's ruler scale was set. That way you can return to several different settings, and it is almost as good as that clamp stop block.

[@Gamersb3stfri3nd]

What a fantastic way to visualize those concept!

[@shaynesabala]

Holy crap, that last one with trimming on the miter is priceless. Thanks.

[@johnkeedwell5549]

Dude, great tips, so many and no waffle. Great work. Love the delivery too. Love the movie clips!

[@johanlarsson9805]

I love my 9/64,5's drillbits when measuring out the proper weight for a 3 inches cup-pound.

[@alanr745]

This may be the most useful and concise video for woodworkers on YT. Nice! Oh, and the honesty and humor is good too.

[@theobolt250]

I have to take notes on this on. For someone who's in the business of making all kinds of boxlike objects, you're really good in thinking outside the box.

[@crispybacon189]

Drill bits for set up, finger gun for router direction, and clamp or magnet for fence stop blocks are fantastic ideas.

[@Alemonian86]

Your videos are great and very helpful. Woodworking is so much about science, but also equally about trial and error, jigs and lots of experimentation to gain experience. You sharing some of yours with all of us shortcuts some of our own trial and error and the simplicity of some of your solutions make them great. Your videos are informative and entertaining. Thanks for sharing and know that your videos make a difference in many of us woodworkers journeys.

[@ReadySetBuildIt]

Great video. I especially appreciate the tip on using drill bits as opposed to setup blocks. Genius!

[@MichaelShimniok]

These tips are absolutely gold. Thanks!!

[@glenb1972]

Yooooooo! You just saved me a $40 Amazon purchase for setup blocks. The drill bit back was genius!!

[@old-barn]

All premium grade tips, wow. thanks for sharing!

[@joshuacalhoun6167]

Using drill bits as a measuring tool is pretty dope. Thanks, buddy.

[@seattledan]

Wow, the first and last piece of advice was mind blowing. Thx!

[@trackie1957]

Metric or Imperial, the number are just a way to represent the distance being measured. Often that measurement falls between the graduations on the tool, so finding ways to measure without numbers can be helpful. That saw depth trick is one. Another that I like to use for mostly inside measurement is to use two overlapping sticks. I slide them to touch both sides of, say, the inside of a box, clamp them together and then just transfer the measurement to my stock. I learned this about 50 years ago from an old boatbuilder from Nova Scotia.

[@kaleoariola]

Great information. You hit all the quick tips that I knew and alot that I forgot I knew. One tip is for glue up. To prevent sliding use sand paper grit or salt on the wet glue before joining the pieces of wood. Keep em coming! Mahalo for this video.

[@jimweisgram9185]

Some people sprinkle a few grains of salt before joining the pieces. If you are using good old PVA glue, if you hold the pieces together with hand pressure in place for about 10 seconds, the glue will tack up a bit and will be less likely to slide.

[@davidperfette1425]

Nice job. Very informative, concise, and no preening.

[@lindseyansola-crowley9342]

A lot of great tips I hadn’t heard about and I’ve watched PLENTY of other tips videos. Also loved that the imperial conversion happened in front of the Death Star.

[@unnitocases4174]

that last tip about shaving off a tiny bit of wood with the chop saw... wish i knew about this before... thanks!

[@madwilliamflint]

omg a tips video that flows well, doesn't waste my time and actually has a bunch of interesting ideas? Who IS this guy? Subbed. o7

[@Dani-it5sy]

If only I could remember all your tips in all your videos. I would be an absolute genius 😄 Using drill bits to measure thickness. How on earth did I never think of that. I could have used that hundreds of times..

[@ianmitchell3631]

Love the tip about repeatability with the table saw so genus

[@barriowoodworks]

The drilling tip with the help of a couple of pieces of wood at 90 degrees is brilliant!

[@MySickstring]

The drill bit setup with a table saw is great, but my experience has been to butt the end of the bit up to the top tooth of the blade rather than laying it along side. No gap that way.

[@chrismoody1342]

I liked that tip using a drill bit to gauge blade height.

[@scotschlinger3975]

I know this was said in the comments but the drill bits as setup blocks just saved my wife some money. Oh, mean me. Buying a shirt instead. Keep up the great work.

[@ericofadel]

Oh, boy, that router bit spinning direction was great (: Thanks for the invo.

[@SpencleyDesignCo]

Fantastic tips, Jon!

[@Lincolnstww]

Thanks dude

[@emr5081]

Very well done!! Your best upload yet!!

[@rayanderson1870]

Love the comment about Imperial vs Metric measurements. In New Zealand, we went metric in 1966 (I was 13). I still think in imperial and can visualise 4 or 6 inches much easier than 100 or 150 millimetres. I can also go into any hardware store and ask for 3 metres of 4 by 2 (yes, we say the width first, then the thickness) and even the youngsters there know exactly what I want.

[@Tensquaremetreworkshop]

The US went Metric in 1975, but they are a stubborn bunch... Of course, it is the use of fractions rather than decimal that is the real problem- and the two are conflated.. They have to have two more series of drills to fill gaps, and no-one can remember which fits where...

[@Tensquaremetreworkshop]

@@farnarkleboy I think you are conflating metric and decimal. It is perfectly possible to work in decimal inches (and engineers do- despite the ludicrous shortage of imperial decimal tooling) or metric fractions. Both inches and millimetres are arbitrary measures in practice (any agreed distance would do). If you feel more 'comfortable' with fractions (despite the clumsy nature- what is a third of7/16ths...) why not work in, say, units of 24mm? Close to the inch, for comfort, but divisible by 2,3,4,6,8,12 into whole numbers. Call it the 'minch'; with milliminches and kilominches etc. All of the features of fractions, but with no discontinuity that Imperial has when it runs out of fractions and goes decimal (few venture beyond 1/128 before resorting to thou). All of the machine tools are already available, in minches and minch fractions. So, a 2 x 4 inch is still a 2 x 4 minch timber- probably more accurate, as the wood is almost always smaller in practice... Same comfort, better fit to reality, more factors, timber already sized in it, no discontinuity at small dimensions, whole numbers for most divisions, what is not to like? (value of the moot is moot!)

[@Nickpampani]

You just blew my mind, more than twice!

[@kenleidolf9222]

I am new to woodworking and your videos seem to be teaching me alot. Just want to say thanks for the knowledge of using drill bits for measurements

[@troycampbell5732]

The force is strong with this one.

[@DanaOredson]

Ooh, I like the half lap tip. Makes 100% sense.

[@peterzammit9029]

Another take on the sneaking cut using the saw teeth is to line up the workpiece with the blade, apply very slight pressure against it flexing it slightly, then lift the blade up. If you do it correctly, when you lift the blade before making the cut, it will spring back to its original position and the workpiece will be under it by a very small amount.

[@jimweisgram9185]

For a miter saw, I assume. Because that is exactly what I do with my mower saw. I find on my more saw that if I don't apply any pressure against the blade I still get a tiny bit of material cut off. That may be the result of a cheapish miter saw.

[@peterzammit9029]

@@jimweisgram9185 yup, I wrote that in a huge hurry from the sound of it lol. Definitely a mitre saw

[@JamesDeese]

These are tips that I have never heard. Very good!

[@Don-wq7hc]

Thank you for all the great content. Production quality, serious narration interspersed with comedic clips make these videos both educational and entertaining. I’ve also bought some Fastcap and Dewalt tools based on your recommendations; making DIY life easier.

[@michaelz94454]

Noob here. Great tips thanks! Although just cutting off a sliver with your miter I was taught while off to butt up the board to the blade then raise it and then make the cut. Just the slight amount of pressure butting up against the blade will be surprisingly enough to cut a decent sliver off. Saving the effort of an extra board underneath and cutting upwards.

[@WiscoWorkshop]

Great video, definitely some great tips here thanks for sharing!

[@theneedlessmage6826]

Absolutely brilliant! Have seen several of these before but there are plenty of new ones too, as well as I few I'd forgotten. Wonderful to have them all presented together like this.

[@riaanvanderwesthuizen6188]

I really like your videos. Thank you for sharing your experience and knowledge.

[@LimitedGunnerGM]

Your example at 1:00, wouldn’t the “Flying V” apply from the opposite direction of the clamp?

[@EveningWoodworker]

Great Video Jon! I love the RH rule trick as well as the drill bit "setup blocks"...gotta try those. Keep up the good work!

[@BM-yy8db]

These are some very smart tips, nice! As for the Imperial/metric thing, I don't care if you use Imperial when you're comfortable with that, but I consider it a massive quality of life improvement when KZbinrs include a little on-screen conversion text when mentioning such measurements

[@Bigblue-mm]

This is one tips and tricks for woodworking video that I actually got some useful info

[@Tattysnuc]

Great stuff. Best new channel I've found in ages on the topic since I found Bourban-Moth - thank you for sharing :)

[@Lincolnstww]

Wow, thanks!

[@brandy3996]

Just found your channel, and subscribed as soon as I saw the plethora of Star Wars puns. Love it. Keep up the great content

[@deliaguzman1138]

The fan blowing the miter saw dust into the hood! My god it’s genius!

[@MrWilsonlev]

Like your style, good job….informative and no bs with some good humor. I enjoy also the grouping of muy talented woodmen you mentioned. Looking forward to supporting your content and keep up the good work! Jeff Doran

[@mikecoughlin4128]

This video had some of the best and most useful tips I’ve ever seen, and I watch way too many videos. I have now subscribed. Thanks.

[@jamesbarisitz4794]

Solutions and time in tips ! I like metric for the simplicity. Drams, penny weights, bit the dust out of necessity. Imperial won't die for stubbornness. 😃👍

[@thenext9537]

Straight up with the hacks. Drill bits as space measurements? That is life changing. What I'm reading into is get out my micrometer, and my drill bits and get the ones where they are dead on or within 1/64' and use those as my spacing set.

[@BubbaFranks-TheSwordDragon]

Loved the bit about people who think in fractions. I'm a CNC guy who use decimals and calipers to measure. I got insane amounts of pushback from the new woodworking company that I started working for when all of my blueprints were handed out to the shop with numbers such as 2.3125 on them and they had no idea what 2.3125 was. While I personally despise having to count the lines on a tape measure to find out if I just made a good part, they are so used to doing it, they don't even have to count the lines.

[@Erik_The_Viking]

Great list of tips! I like the tip for using drill bit as setup blocks. Makes sense too, as they're extremely accurate and one less thing to buy and store.

[@bretttoynton1982]

Wow that’s an awesome idea. Thanks keep up the great videos. 👍

[@byhammerandhand]

I will occasionally use metric when it makes my life easier. It's a lot easier to divide 33 cm in into thirds than it is 13 inches. I have a friend that's a retired pattern-maker for a tool manufacturer. He said that plans were often in thousandths and he had to memorize sixty-fourths decimal values. The company he worked for was bought by a Japanese company and they converted to metric for all their work. Other than needing to purchase a new set of shrink rules, he said it made life much easier. (a shrink rule is unique to every kind of metal being cast and is calibrated so that if you make a pattern using it, once the metal is cast and cools, it shrinks to the stated dimension). I have seen that 45 degree clamping guide many times. It can depend some on the "stiffness" of he material.

[@TheWoodFly]

Good tip. But for using them to set TS height, turn them 90 deg to the blade butt end to the blade teeth. Then you have the height up against the blade and it's easier to feel where it should be. If parallel, there is a drop as the radius of the bit falls off. Raise saw is brilliant!

[@HighPeaksHome]

As someone who came out of metal Fab into carpentry i have a slew of thick angle iron pieces laying about. Ill use them to distribute the clamping force on the sides and use them allong the top and bottom to reduce the bowing effect of side force. It will end up looking like something out of a torture film....

[@metalsam666]

I love your videos. I was surprise to see your channel is pretty new as the production value is pretty good. Keep up the good work and I will continue watching you!!!!!!

[@ryanbohr314]

Love that shirt! I'm gonna have to scoop one!

[@pioshelby7611]

Brilliant. I never knew about the clamps...

[@lilyg2058]

Great tips and great humor. Thanks!!

[@Elderos5]

Great tips! That drill bit tip is such a simple tip it seems so obvious. However, my favorite tip is your tip about the imperial system! 😎👍

[@supmahBRUDDah]

When mounting a computer monitor baseplate to a table, rather than measuring out the pilot holes, I clamped a piece of paper to the baseplate and did a pencil rubbing for a makeshift template. I can see that applying to other uses/projects for a quick drill hole template.

[@johnwilliams1745]

Good Stuff sir! Got some new tools in the bag now.