Problems with Polymeric Sand | How We Solved This Failure

[@ktm3850]

What a shame. Look at all the water sitting on that. Some contractors in a hurry or didn't know what he's doing. Otherwise, hats off to you. You have honesty and heart, which is very hard to find these days. I love your videos.

[@iamahardscaper]

Thank you!

[@donaldbass6737]

When polymeric sand is transported it stratifies in the container and unless it is reblended in a wheel barrow prior to application it will not bond appropriately.

[@iamahardscaper]

🤯

[@lurklingX]

damn, really?? ok, noted. will mix! im about to do this project.

[@The_real_dylan]

I think you’re before and after titles are on the wrong images. Thanks for all the great vids.

[@iamahardscaper]

Haha ah man that’s embarassing!

[@jeanresler5713]

Great video! We had paver pathways and polymeric sand put down during a major landscaping overhaul. But after several months of traffic over the pavers, the workers have left a film of clay soil ground into the hardened polymeric sand. Do you have a suggestion for cleaning out this clay without damaging the sand? I have tried gentle pressure -washing without success.

[@iamahardscaper]

If a light pressure washing does work, you may be stuck with scrubbing. I would continue to try the pressure washing because that is your best bet. Give the sand 30 days to cure and then try to pressure wash a small area to test pressure

[@richardmickiewicz2336]

I just power-washed my paver patio. I also took out some of the polymeric sand that had mold on it. How do I replace it? I understand you sweep it in but then what? ... use a blower to remove excess and water it in? I imagine it would be hard to only blow off the sand that is ON the pavers and not actually some that was in the joints.

[@iamahardscaper]

You need to make sure you have at least 1" of depth (some manufacturers require more) and it is better to do a larger area rather than a lot of smaller areas. Make sure it is dry into the joints. Sweep in the sand, rattle it into the joint (compactor), re-sweep, when you leaf blow just use a low setting to get the dust and excess sand off the surface of the pavers, ensure polymeric sand is 1/8" below top of paver, water. Check our video on this: kzbin.info/www/bejne/e2bQeYuqbapmm7s

[@richardmickiewicz2336]

@@iamahardscaper Awesome! Can't believe how fast you responded and with so much expertise!!!

[@jasonpagan4912]

Great video that helped me repair my polymeric sand. Also the gentleman in the video I think is the owner gave great advice for repairs and or redoing a previous job. Thanks and great video/repair job!

[@iamahardscaper]

Thank you!

[@jasonberezny9705]

Excellent presentation. Thank you.✌️

[@iamahardscaper]

Thank you!

[@karlsquire8148]

Thank you for the vid, I'm having this exact same problem. I actually pressured washed the stone to clean up a bit and notice it does remove the sand so I was quite happy about that and came across this vid when trying figure out how to remove and re install the sand. After power washing do you just sweep the old sand up and how deep do I have to go in between the flagstone for the new sand to be installed?

[@iamahardscaper]

Yeah I use a sod knife or book knife and get right in there to at least have 1.5” which most sand manufacturers call for their sands. Then wait til everything is dry including inside the joints and sweep the new sand in.

[@karlsquire8148]

@@iamahardscaper Thanks for getting back to me. keep the vids coming please.

[@iamahardscaper]

Thank you!

[@seanz1232010]

very informative. And yea id rather do a re-application every 5 years vs a complete reno of base and lay them again. Can i powewash concrete pavers?

[@iamahardscaper]

Yup 👍

[@ivansuarez5179]

Hi , nice video , i have a client with same problem on back patio , under the , the flaging stone is 1 1/2 inch of stone dust and under is a concrrte base ( 4 inch), polymeric sand is not good there , fo you yhink can i remove the polymeric join and replace with mortar cement mix with portland and sand or do you have other recomendation , ? Thank you for you answer.

[@iamahardscaper]

That’s tough to say. If you have a climate with freeze thaw cycles, you are going to have more headaches with mortar.

[@seano1334]

I pressure wash and I no longer feel like offering poly sanding for the chances of it failing. It rains like crazy now here on Long island, and to find the optimal conditions are hard. It will harden and then we will get 3" of rain and it'll turn to crap.

[@iamahardscaper]

Yeah I’m that environment it can be frustrating for sure. Are you using EasyJoint or nitro sand instead now?

[@CageyLeigh]

I’m considering using polymer jointing sand to fill my driveway expansion joints. I’d rather use self-sealing silicone, but being elderly, I can’t spend that much time on my knees applying the silicone with a caulking gun. It would kill my hips. Do you think that the polymer jointing sand will remain flexible enough for Midwest winters?

[@iamahardscaper]

Yup, it is supposed to be designed for that. I experience Toronto winters.

[@angelinalozada189]

Thank You from Puerto Rico.

[@iamahardscaper]

👍👍👍

[@cantwaittowatch]

thank you so much. Very informative. I wish I had seen this before. For our side walk, we dug up the place nice and even, applied the Sakrete's product, the base 0.5 cu. ft. Step 1 Patio Paver Base, leveled it with a handmade tool (a tamper) and then applied as a step 2, Sakrete's 0.5 cu. ft. Paver Leveling Sand and placing flag stones.. We just did this and I see some stones are tight and snug while some are not snug and move after I step on it. Is there anything wrong here or is this normal, which takes some time for all of this to settle down? Its a rainy day also, so this could be another factor. Should I add any other sand for all the flag stones to sit tight and snug so they dont move? Thank you.

[@iamahardscaper]

I do not know what the base you prepared translates to in terms of depth. But here in Toronto, we do a minimum 6" of base with 1" of levelling sand. But even if you did not do an adequate base, it would not already be moving under your weight. It is most likely that they were not compacted into the sand layer. This needs to be done to set them into the sand and then the polymeric sand or other jointing compound is installed and they are compacted again to consolidate that sand. This typically locks them up.

[@cantwaittowatch]

Thank you. I would say, leveled the ground after a dig up, a base around 4” and leveled and then sand. Some stones sat right well while others move when stepped on. As this work is done during rain, and the base is not rock, it’s hard sand. Once rain settles, will remove the stones that are wobbling and then apply the P sand or joint you suggested.

[@RyanJud76]

Hello. Very helpful video. We have a patio that was installed in 2016 with Unilock Pavers and presumably a polymetric sand. It has held up extremely well since the installation. It feels like a concrete-ish material. However we just had our patio pressure washed and there are some areas where the polymetric sand has come up. Our intent was to install new polymetric sand in these areas. I'd say on average, the dept from top of paver to the surface of the sand is 1/4 on average. Many products recommend a minimum of a 1" depth of the joint. What we're trying to figure out if we really need to remove the remaining 3/4" depth of the material in the joints to get down to the 1" minimum depth recommendation, or if we can get away with only installing at around the 1/4" depth that we have now. Again, the remaining polymetric sand in the joints is very solid and we anticipate removal down to 1" would be extremely labor intensive. Let me know what you recommend. Thanks in advance!

[@iamahardscaper]

It is worth noting that your sand should only be filled to 1/8” below the top of paver or bottom of the paver chamfer. 1/4” below may not be worth the labor to fill back up by an 1/8” if you look at it that way. But if you do, you will definitely have to scrap down 1” or to the manufacturers specified depth otherwise it will just flake off because it doesn’t have anything to bond to. Definitely labor intensive, but the alternative is a waste of time.

[@adamleen595]

I think you could really make these look nice with a algae/mold killer and stronger pressure washer. Very informative video for pavers!

[@iamahardscaper]

Thank you!

[@lorisullivan6231]

I have 7 years with bluestones and polymeric sand that is failing over the years....in CT. Landscaper said to redo with "better" polymeric, and masons say to use either mortar or a compound of polymeric and "something stronger"....no product name given. Another mason said he would use a "special mix cement" . I guess the most pressing question.....do I clean out all old polymeric and replace....or use something with either cement or mortar (as the masons, no landscape designer) suggests. Maybe I need another landscape patio/walkway designer to give estimate as I agree the bluestone needs to breath/heave/move.

[@iamahardscaper]

Yes, if you experience freeze thaw, you need something that will withstand the movement. That is why hardscapers will typically use polymeric sand. It is firm, but flexible. It is a tough call. There are mortars that are polymer modified which may be worthwhile to try. Personally I like polymeric sand instead of mortar. The special mix cement, I would ask them for the specific product or what is the special part about it. Unfortunately without seeing your project I cannot recommend a product.

[@brendonartindale5694]

I just got a deck done and on the open joints my sand doesn't stick. Therefore all my joints on the ends have no sand for at least 3 inches. What can I do to keep the sand in the joints

[@iamahardscaper]

Along the edges? Tape them and then sweep the sand and water. Let it cure before taking the tape off

[@dsumhank]

Hi Thank you for the info. I recently had interlocking done, and I noticed some gaps in one of the joints Seems like the water from the gutter drain washed away some of the polymeric sand. Is this normal?

[@iamahardscaper]

Yes water will slowly erode that away

[@ninjip3460]

Thanks for the information, I’ve a situation. My patio got it with house, May be 10 years old, it has many low and high spots, Last year power washed but didn’t put sand. Ask contractors are saying different things, some are saying that your base doesn’t have proper base and drainage, need to redo it. Some are saying power wash and put new sand. I’m really confused, how to evaluate this and take decision. Any guidance would be appreciated.

[@iamahardscaper]

If there are high and low points, then pressure washing and putting new sand in is not going to solve it. It is a base problem. There could be many things that caused this. Improper base material, base depth, compaction, etc

[@Xaero324]

I had my pavers done last year and used poly sand. I am already having the same experience on the area underneath my deck where it's shaded. I am planning power washing that area to remove the loose ones and to put in Ez Joint.

[@iamahardscaper]

Sounds like it may work. EasyJoint does still require it to cure so try to get it installed on a really hot few days

[@laurapalmerTDGE]

Always start with a clean slate, no rush and investigate like you're doing right now. Start the work in the morning, proper ambient temperature. Also vibrate(!) the sand compact prior to watering (mist) it. Enjoy.

[@iamahardscaper]

Yup Yup!

[@calvary.online]

Hey, thx, I’ve learned so much. I have a job with the exact same stone and very similar problem or failing sand. My question is, on this job how did you figure how much poly to get? How far would one bag go with compaction?

[@iamahardscaper]

You can find that through the manufacturer. Search the product and the spec sheet or website page will tell you how many lbs of sand per square foot.

[@calvary.online]

Ok, you think the coverage stated on bag would be accurate for this specific paver? It says 22-42 sq ft. I thought this block is pretty irregular compared to most paver stones. Thx for advice.

[@iamahardscaper]

Check with the paver manufacturer, not the polysand manufacturer.

[@MrPoosarlasrinivas]

Hello, sorry I didn’t understand what did you use to replace polymeric sand?

[@iamahardscaper]

Pressure washed the stone and the joints to remove the polymeric sand, waited for it to dry, and then re-installed.

[@ryanperkins4297]

Great video. What brand of moss/alge cleaner/preventative would you recommend for shady areas where our polymeric sand has taken on a brownish/green color? Looking to clean it without compromising its effectiveness in the joints (which are still holding strong). Thanks!

[@iamahardscaper]

I would try Alliance or Techni Seal's cleaners. But talk to them first to see what they recommend for the right cleaner.

[@AdrianStewartSummerElite]

Would the permeable products like Gator Nitro or Easy Joint be better than polymeric sand to prevent moss growth on joints on a shady patio?

[@iamahardscaper]

I think it would be. But it would have to be built using a synthetic or open graded base in my opinion. It is better to have an appropriate slope on your patio as well

[@rand49er]

I think your "before" and "after" video clips are labeled backwards. My 16-yr-old patio looked very similar to the one shown here. It had moss and small weeds getting a foothold, so I power washed it and removed a lot of mud as you did. Fortunately, I have a few days off work so could spend the time, and it did take a lot time and energy. Only with several days and lots of energy should anyone tackle this job. Otherwise, they would be well advised to hire someone like you who does it professionally. Thanks for your video!

[@iamahardscaper]

Thank you! Appreciate that. And yes it is backwards 👍

[@MrTimjin]

Which material between outdoor pavers to choose, cement n sand, or poly metric sand? Thank you

[@iamahardscaper]

We never do cement and sand because we are in a freeze thaw climate and it would just crack and flake

[@TrentHendyTravels]

Did I miss what the problem was? Was the owner digging the joints with his fingers? The joints looked great yeah a little soft.

[@iamahardscaper]

The polymeric sand failed. It should be hard not soft. Every time it rained they would have sand all over their patio.

[@andyb8838]

Hi, great video. Very detailed and helpful. Thank you. I'm a weekend warrior who recently did a diy flagstone patio w/ polymeric sand. I followed all of the instructions including the grading and everything appears to be working well. However, I missed a not so minor detail b/c I forgot to install a surface drain at the low point of the patio. I need to remove just a few stones to install the drain. Would a hammer and chisel (or screwdriver) do the trick? Also, I will need to re cut some of the stones with an angle grinder. I'm thinking it may be easier to leave those stones in place within the patio rather than removing them and the polymeric sand surrounding them and fully uninstall them before cutting. What would you recommend? Thank you for the great content!

[@iamahardscaper]

Yeah, depending on your spacing it should be fairly easy to get into that polymeric sand. I could not quite follow your second question about recutting the stones and polymeric.

[@andyb8838]

@@iamahardscaper Thank you! Spacing is 1-1.5". Planning to just chisel out the section to install the drain. Second question is. Some of the larger flagstones will need to be cut to allow room for the drain. The patio has already been finished so these stones are currently in place with polymeric sand connecting the joints to the other patio stones. Do you think it's ok for me to just cut these larger stones with an angle grinder while they are connected to the rest of the patio with the polymeric sand? That would be much easier for me. Or, should I also chisel out these larger stones, remove them from the patio and then proceed to cut them? Sorry I'm an amateur so having a hard time explaining. Thanks again for your reply as well as the terrific content.

[@iamahardscaper]

Without seeing it, you should be fine to cut it out. The only thing you wont get is the polymeric sand bonding to the drain itself when you install it. You wouldn't get much of a bond anyways like you do from the polymeric sand to the flagstone, but just something to consider that you may want your drain to sit slightly below the flagstone so the water for sure gets collected and doesn't trickle between the flagstone and drain. Hope that helps!

[@andyb8838]

@@iamahardscaper yes it does, thank you so much!

[@jayrag123]

In my opinion, as long as the pavers haven't shifted and the problem is the sand then just remove and replace the sand every few years. Pressure wash the sand out and put new sand in. Just let them know they'll be spending a few hundred dollars every few years till they replace pavers.

[@iamahardscaper]

👍👍

[@thereefaholic]

So if the top hardens but ended with it feels spongy then it still has wanted underneath or it’s not enough water? Clear dry days. No sprinklers, 15-20 seconds of water. Wide joints around Cambridge river rocks.

[@iamahardscaper]

I can't say for sure without seeing it. When polymeric sand gets wet after the install it will feel a little bit spongy, but shouldn't be too much. Then when it is dry it should harden right up.

[@JSmithTCF]

I have a natural sandstone walkway. The contractor used Alliance Gator Dust. After a few years it is failing. Is there anything stronger, more durable in shady wet areas, that I can use with the larger uneven gaps you get with natural sandstone?

[@iamahardscaper]

You could try Azpects EasyJoint or Alliance Nitro but I would reach out to them to see if your joint sizes are okay. Also you’d want to make sure your base material is good for that because it is permeable.

[@davidjordan3073]

Great advice

[@iamahardscaper]

Thank you!

[@AKAten4]

Hi, I had 16inch x 16 slabs paved in my back garden and asked if they're finishing it with some sort of sand filling. He shook head for no. But I'm sure it needs a once over to complete the job, they've been layed with no joint but you do see in some places particularly edges that a filling job of some sort is needed. They didn't finish any sort of soft brushing of sand as I kind of expected. The notable joints are a couple mill to 5mil max. What would you suggest I did, if I've given you enough info, I prob haven't.

[@iamahardscaper]

I do not think you'd be able to squeeze some polymeric sand in those smaller joints, but definitely in those larger joints you could. That is the route I would try to go with and vibrate it in as best as possible while doing multiply applications and compactions of it before activating it to get as much into the joints as possible. Protect your slabs as well when compacting.

[@AKAten4]

@@iamahardscaper thanks, yes I'll have a go later

[@annegallagher7558]

If I need to replace poly sand (foundation is fine and I already took old poly out) should I put sand then poly sand? If so what depths for each? Thank you!

[@iamahardscaper]

No, always straight poly sand.

[@chelin7023]

What a nightmare from the owners view. I bet they chose the pressure washing because now they are probably thinking, your more expensive option, may or may not work; the trust invested in the first contractor and the corresponding disappointment have damaged their ability to trust anyone! Shame on the first contractor who ruins the trade for all.

[@iamahardscaper]

Yes, this is unfortunate for sure. I do believe the client does understand that their situation with vegetation all around them and the shade that this patio gets all day long is not the best situation for the best results.

[@annhenry7449]

Can't trust anything or anyone these days. Label liars are the worst. Won't stand by their products. Shame.

[@severcrompton7421]

how long after power washing should one apply the sand?

[@iamahardscaper]

Until the joints are completely dry down to the bottom.

[@MrWakaka101]

Recently had a customer complain that during a lead removal job we blew all the poly sand out of her flagstone back patio. It's also a small townhouse that probably doesn't get a ton of sun behind the house. She expects us to fix it on our dime. I told her it is not something we caused as the poly sand feels like rubber and is coming out everywhere. What's the best way to explain to her that it is not something we caused or can be liable for.

[@iamahardscaper]

That’s tough. If weeds were growing through the joints, the sand was already compromised. So pressure washing the weeds out would have brought out the sand. Polymeric sand should be flexible when wet. So there were likely sections that were still okay, but still got blown out. As a business owner I would just fix it and remember for next time. But I don’t have all the details to give that advice

[@MrWakaka101]

@@iamahardscaper I already refunded her for the leaf cleanup for the trouble. It was literally coming up everywhere and was maybe only 1/4” thick. What didn’t come up wasn’t attached to the ground either

[@iamahardscaper]

Yeah it’s tough. Likely if it came up that easy it was just the quality of the polymeric sand. It’s just something that you want to warn future clients and maybe include a package to re-install the sand.

[@ArlynLanz]

Hi, we have removed the joints of polymeric sand from my pavers and yesterday applied new poly sand. My joints are no more than 2“ in between pavers. My driveway is in a high slope. I noticed today the joint were overfilled and the sand is popping out from the borders of each pavers. Is ok if I remove the excess on the borders with my rotary tool tapered scraper? Thank you. I know the sand still will be at the level of the pavers and rubbing, and no 1/8" down the paver level. I regreat not to watch your video before yesterday. The worker who made it obviously doesn't know to do this job. I plan to apply sealer after I remove the excess. I'll be lit a work..

[@iamahardscaper]

Sorry can't say I've ever tried. I'd be worried it may agitate the poly sand too much though

[@krall3168]

What do you recommend for permeable joint filler? I have a 3/4" joint I need to fill in NY with a crushed stone base.

[@iamahardscaper]

Does it have to be permeable or can it be semi-permeable? Permeable your option is just an angular crushed rock. Alliance has one called aqua rock I believe. There are semi permeable resin based options by Alliance called nitro and azpects called EasyJoint

[@krall3168]

@@iamahardscaper Thanks so much for replying back, I really appreciate it! I believe semi-permeable would be fine. In watching your video I thought permeable was best as it's an area that gets little sunlight. However half of the pavers are under a gazebo roof and half exposed to the elements.

[@PittWBB]

What polymeric sand do you recommend?

[@iamahardscaper]

The main brands are all pretty good, it’s more so about how you follow the installation directions. Alliance and Techni Seal are what I use

[@zoezzzarko1117]

Regular white vinegar sprayed occasionally will kill all algae and moss... and actually clean up your natural stone easily, quickly and nicely !! Just remember to give a good scrub w a deck brush broom... and rinse thoroughly when job is done !! 😇🙏😎😎😎🔥❣💞🕊

[@iamahardscaper]

ah nice suggestion! appreciate that

[@brianpoe9860]

Pretty cool! I have had this exact same experience as this video! As well as the exact same conversations with clients. Great job!

[@iamahardscaper]

Thank you for watching and commenting!

[@jackiegreen2954]

I just power washed my pavers that where full moss and mold. I don't think the polymer was installed correctly. Should I just use sand or polymer at this point?

[@iamahardscaper]

that is up to you. If you install polymeric sand, here is an instructional video: kzbin.info/www/bejne/rIbagpJvmpWGg9E

[@tomacquilano1304]

Can you add additional sand in low ares after the sand has cured? I've been working on a flags stone sidewalk. The gaps are pretty big. Up to 4". I'm using Technical Next Gel polymeric sand.

[@iamahardscaper]

No, you can’t top up polymeric sand. It needs to be installed with at least 1” depth

[@tomacquilano1304]

@@iamahardscaper I tried it anyway in a few areas and it worked great. This stuff is sticky like glue. I poured a little down, maybe half a cup, feathered it out with a soft paint brush and then wet it down with a spray bottle.

[@iamahardscaper]

Glad it worked out 👍

[@al1203]

Would periodic applications of Wet and Forget reduce the moss and minimize the damage?

[@iamahardscaper]

That is a good question, I do not know. I'd be concerned about it discolouring the patio. But I would reach out to them and the paver manufacturer to see.

[@kuyenkaabi3970]

Hello. I had techniseal HP next gel jointing sand installed on my porcelain pavers. Unfortunately, we had an unexpected rain about 40hours after the install. I notice some areas missing sand or a small chunk is missing off the top. It has been about 2wks of dry/hot weather (southern cA) and In some joints, the sand is still soft. Also some joints are dark, almost black, but the sand is hard and now dry. Can we dig out the soft and black joints and refill just those lines with new polymeric sand? Aside from a pressure washer, which may damage the already dry, good polymeric joints... what tools do you recommend? can i do this myself, or do I have to hire someone?

[@iamahardscaper]

Installing polymeric sand can be finicky. If you do decide to install, read the directions on the bag and follow it exactly. If the areas are not large where the sand did not set, I’d scrape them out with some sort of knife / tool. But without seeing it, I can’t give you advice on how to proceed whether you should pressure wash it all out and start from scratch or not.

[@ProxyMaestro]

Thanks

[@iamahardscaper]

👍

[@Rbucks306]

Could be leaves debris allowed to stay and creates dirt and keeps moisture in the joints

[@iamahardscaper]

Yup! 👍

[@michaelalvarez6703]

is there an option like mixing in cement to the polymeric sand if our contractor used the wrong base, our patio is 20' x 27' so kinda large to tear it up.

[@iamahardscaper]

no you wouldn't want to mess with their formula. just use the polymeric sand as it is.

[@johntiedemann1746]

Maybe not a likely solution - what about removing some shade trees to allow the sun in?

[@iamahardscaper]

Definitely a possibility, but in this situation since it is an HOA they can’t

[@tomacquilano1304]

It's been about one week since I put down my flag stone sidewalk and filled the gaps with polymeric sand. It hasn't rained at all and I was curious about how well water was going to drain off so I soaked it down with a hose. It seemed to drain off just fine. After about 5 or 10 minutes I felt the sand and it was spongy. Is it supposed to be like that? It was hard as rock before I got it wet.

[@iamahardscaper]

Yes, it will get spongy when wet. It is designed to have flex while remaining intact which is especially important with movement it experiences. If it does not harden back up when it dries, then you may have a problem.

[@tomacquilano1304]

@@iamahardscaper Thanks, It did harden up. This stuff is great! First time using it.

[@iamahardscaper]

Nice!

[@corybigelow5944]

I have never seen the plywood method for compacting sand. How do you like your compactor it seems like a good price for a reversible compactor with a 3,000 lb hit.

[@iamahardscaper]

Love the compactor! The plywood was used because I couldn’t find my pad. Had to order a new one for my next project .

[@squeekhobby4571]

Can we do a exterior grout instead of polymeric sand in these kind of scenarios. Looks might take a hit but would it be better performing

[@iamahardscaper]

It would still require a curing time similar to polymeric sand. With these joints, you would not be able to get down to the bottom of the joint with the grout.

[@itsPatches]

Pavers are meant to move slightly since they're not set on a solid subsurface. Which is why you need polymeric sand instead of grout because grout isn't flexible.

[@squeekhobby4571]

@@itsPatches : thanks 🙏

[@flch95]

You mentioned that it’s up north. Is it possible that it was installed during the cold and it just maybe partially froze and not “set”?

[@iamahardscaper]

Yup that could be totally possible as well! But they told me they had it installed in the summer and it was hard at one point in time. So this tells me it is an environmental factor like the shade and slope

[@flch95]

@@iamahardscaper thanks for getting back to me so quick!

[@iamahardscaper]

👍

[@2CMott]

Will sealing the pavers after you prewashed and re-applied the polymeric sand reduce the chances of the moss and other issues to be lessened?

[@iamahardscaper]

It would help with cleaning, but if there is not sufficient slope you will still get growth on top.

[@cassiedrewboston5947]

Can I ask- my landscaper who is very reputable around our area, is laying belgard pavers over existing concrete and then into the yard with a gravel and sand base. However he said our concrete is great and no need to do any prep work like a sand base underneath. The concrete is slightly sloped to move water away from the house but can you put pavers direct on concrete and be ok?

[@iamahardscaper]

Thank you for your comment! Unfortunately I generally do not comment on other contractor's work. We have a concrete overlay video on our channel if you want to check that out.

[@cassiedrewboston5947]

@@iamahardscaper I understand, thank you. I believe we should have sand down as described. Also as described by the manufacturer when overlaying. Thanks again, videos are very helpful.

[@mindfulmagician7550]

When you removed the existing sand with a pressure washer, you said to wait for a few days of hot sun to dry? How many is a few? Isn't one day of hot sun enough?

[@iamahardscaper]

It depends. The joints need to be completely dry. So if the entire patio is exposed to sun, after a day you should be good. You just have to check to the bottom of the joint. This one is shaded so we needed to wait.

[@cynthiaayers7696]

A few means, 3 days.

[@watchinglistening]

One thing I don't hear Hard Scapers mention is wether using city water or softened well water has a negative affect on the polymers. City water has chlorine and other chemicals added to the water to obviously kill pathogens. Well water has bacteria that feeds mainly on the iron in the water creating sulfuric acid/rotten egg smell. My well water has a large amount of Lyme which could also affect the activation of the polymers in the sand. Softened water has salt in it and salt would definitely interfere with the polymers reaction. In short both municipal/city and well water are suspect in their contaminates that interfer with the polymers reaction. One other thing I don't dismiss is the possibility of the particular BATCH OF THE PRODUCT is defective. The polymers are not of the proper quality or not of the correct amount in the mixture. This particular condition in this video looks to me like too much water was applied washing the polymers out through the joints into the base gravel and algae has been able to get a foot hold. Without sealer "algae always sets up shop" with in a year. Sealers are the only DEFENSE against ALGAE, as it is every where on everything it's Incessant. It can and will and does eat the asphalt shingles on our homes.

[@iamahardscaper]

Those are some excellent points 👍👍

[@watchinglistening]

@@iamahardscaper I don't claim anything I pointed out to be right, but possibilities. I worked as a commercial glazier for years and we had to clean aluminum frames and panel edges before perimeter chalking to usually brick openings and some times metal clad jambs. To clean the aluminum and metal they gave us denatured alcohol. I constantly made the point that denatured did not dry 100 percent and left a haze on the metal that you could see and when you pull your finger across it, it left a dust like residue on your skin. Denatured ALCOHOL is "DENATURED" by adding a chemical to make it poisonous to drink believe it or not. Only "rubbing alcohol" dries completely giving absolute adherence of the perimeter sealing caulk. They had leaks but wouldn't accept that it was the DENATURED residue causing the caulk to detach. So I have always investigated everything thoroughly when it comes to adhesion and failures to seal. I just finished a raised front porch, that is only 8" tall with Easton wall stone serving as a retaining wall with old school 3" thick Belgard mega arble pavers. 9'x19' quite a job by myself at 66. I used techniseal polymeric that I had in the garage for "10 years" on a self, I tested it about 3 weeks before hand and it set up like it was brand new. After letting the polymeric set for 10 days I sealed it with two heavy coats of INDUSTRA-GLOSS 350. Came out as well as I could have wanted. But I was really concerned about using my well water to set the polymeric. At times it has had a bad rotten egg smell caused by the bacteria creating the hydrogen sulfide gas. Then at times it has no smell at all, like now. I can by pass the water softener so it was straight well water. That solvent based sealer is potent stuff no algae can stick to to get a foot hold. I used it on my concrete driveway apron 3 years ago and it is still holding up.

[@CDGMR1]

Luv your videos!!!!!

[@iamahardscaper]

Thank you!

[@dtm8073]

Good video, thanks for the info! I can't find a pad for my compactor either now thinking of doing like you did. Is that 3/8" or 1/2" plywood? Does the plywood break down into little chunks after a while?

[@iamahardscaper]

I think this is 1/2”. They are actually my ground cover mats. I had to use them because I couldn’t find my pad. We have a video on compacting pavers with a link to a pad that works well for us.

[@iamahardscaper]

The plywood holds up well to the compactor

[@TheOnlySgtRock]

Plywood probably costs more than a pad now.

[@madonnahagedorn5649]

My new steps are a combination of a NEWLY poured concrete base with pavers above and on the face. The sand is leaking out around the perimeter, leaving deep grooves between the pavers. Small pieces of the concrete base cracked off at the bottom already. The mortar between the two layers is exposed and looks unruly on the sides. The results are not looking clean and finished. Can these things still be fixed before our professional landscapers finish the job at our house? Any advice is helpful.

[@iamahardscaper]

I’m sorry I would have to see a picture or see it in person to give advice on this one.

[@traci7721]

My poly sand didn't set. It dried powdery and loose. Didn't harden at all. I used poly panels under the pavers. I'm not sure if I over watered and it washed the "glue" out of the sand? Not sure what to do next.

[@iamahardscaper]

I couldn't say. Did it have time to set before it rained? Did you follow the watering instructions on the bag? Did you compact the pavers when sweeping in the sand? Could be too little water or too much water. You likely need to remove the sand and re-install.

[@AG-hk5pe]

Thank you for the video! Is it possible to use polymer sand in only one small section where it has eroded? Or do you have to do the whole area at once.

[@iamahardscaper]

You can, but you should expand that area out a little larger than the erosion. The larger area that you can do the better. Plus you need the right depth for the sand.

[@AG-hk5pe]

@@iamahardscaper Thanks again! Much appreciated

[@justinmancini5846]

What is the best way to remove techniseal hp next gel from the paver surface. The pressure washer removes the chunks but after rain you still see and feel the gel on the paver surface.

[@iamahardscaper]

Hot water. If it is just a little bit, try boiling some water (doesn’t have to be boiling just hot) and pour it and scrub

[@justinmancini5846]

@@iamahardscaper thank you! And would you recommend nylon or steel bristle brush for scrubbing concrete pavers?

[@iamahardscaper]

Nylon

[@ProudPoorTrailerTrash]

What does a project like this cost.

[@iamahardscaper]

I can’t remember what we charged for this, but pricing varies so much from company to company and market to market

[@victorgomez4615]

How long for the polymeric sand to be cure?

[@iamahardscaper]

Under normal conditions, 30 days to fully cure. Some sands have 15 minutes rain safe up to 24-48 hours rain safe.

[@jimborambo958]

What if I put concrete instead of polymeric sand? I’m in the Northeast

[@iamahardscaper]

Won’t work

[@mrnotnomis]

I am putting in flagstone between two patos, a space of about 42" x 12'. One patio is actually the skirting around a new pool. My concern is that the polymeric sand will stick to feet and get into the pool. Will this be the case? Or are we safe?

[@iamahardscaper]

You are safe, polymeric sand should not shed sand. If it does it was installed incorrectly.

[@fernandatv]

What are those panels for paver protection while compacting? 0:38

[@iamahardscaper]

That’s just panels of plywood

[@fernandatv]

@@iamahardscaper ok, thank you.

[@Genxseven7]

So all you did was power wash? Did i miss you putting something on it again?

[@iamahardscaper]

Pressure wash out, clean up, let dry, and re-sand. I don’t think I got that part on film.

[@Tupelo777]

I'm shocked no one on earth has invented a paver sand that holds up to water better.

[@iamahardscaper]

There actually is a fairly new product that does: Polymeric Sand Alternative | EASYJoint Reviews and How To kzbin.info/www/bejne/jqTQoYebp9aWidE

[@Tupelo777]

@@iamahardscaper Thanks, very interesting. But like so many situations that stay damp I'm thinking I need a joint filler that stays hard in damp situations that doesn't let water penetrate. The water penetration is the killer and the reason my base is always soaked.

[@blueplasma5589]

I think your"before, after" are transposed, no?

[@iamahardscaper]

Yup! A little oops in the editing

[@flch95]

6:30 labels are backwards

[@iamahardscaper]

😂 yes you are correct!

[@sakibh85]

You haven't knifed your new application to prove it isnt breaking up like the first one. I wonder why ........

[@iamahardscaper]

Because it takes time to cure. That would be like sticking your finger in freshly poured concrete and wondering why it isn’t hard yet

[@e79422]

I personally think Polymeric Sand is a poor product in general. Even with proper installation, slop, application, sun etc. There has got to be something better.

[@iamahardscaper]

That is most definitely becoming more and more popular of an opinion. Semi Permeable jointing compounds are becoming increasingly popular including Alliance Nitro and Azpects EasyJoint.

[@doncaffery2553]

I'm glad someone finally reached that conclusion! Thank you!

[@barackobama5304]

Maybe the homeowner should just spray down the pavers with a moss and algae killer once or twice a year.

[@iamahardscaper]

Good idea. Still it doesn’t solve the polymeric sand curing problem.

[@foxhillest]

spray antifungle once a month moss wont grow

[@iamahardscaper]

Does it stain?

[@FuzzyJohn]

6:18 Hmmmmm... I don't know... to my untrained eye the before looks a lot better than the after. 🤓

[@iamahardscaper]

😂 good eye! I mixed the before and afters

[@annhenry7449]

This is not a reliable product touse for cracks or patios at all. Way, way too many options for failure. Maybe you can inform the manufacturers that the industry should find better bonding solutions in the manufacturing process. Don't by polymeric sand.

[@iamahardscaper]

There have been noted failures of this product for sure. Manufacturers know. I personally have not had many. There are definitely several things that will lead to a failure of polymeric sand in the installation of the project all the way to the actual installation of the sand itself. It is a tricky process in itself.

[@tddtv]

nice, here's what contractors did to part of mine, I'm so pissed off, I notified them after they even came out twice to try to fix this, and put in a yelp review. They also used the SB-8700 but don't know wtf they're doing apparently on half my patio. This happened only MONTHS after they installed it, NOT YEARS. kzbin.info/www/bejne/rp6bmWWQitZrbqM

[@iamahardscaper]

🫢

[@ironman3200]

😜😝😂😂😂😂 BEFORE AND AFTER GOT MIX UP. You need to fix it . If you do not do that then you don’t care about your image of your job done .

[@iamahardscaper]

😂😂

[@mmusico48]

those are ditches in between !!! you need something else ....!!!!

[@iamahardscaper]

?

[@markadler8968]

ANY polymeric sand is garbage. My company has spent tens of thousands of dollars replacing these products on various jobs (We install over 100,000 square feet of pavers a year). Clients think you sweep this stuff in and no more weeds. It ends up failing almost immediately, prevents water from draining through it and stains a lot of natural stones as well. The best product is either a regular jointing sand for smaller joints or a crushed fine limestone (Crusher dust) for larger joints. They are very affordable, last forever and be repaired easily.

[@iamahardscaper]

Interesting, no luck with any brands? I have not had the same experience, only repairing jobs like this. Lots of external factors affect it so I can see why you would want to get away from it. Do you use limestone screenings for your bedding layer?

[@markadler8968]

@@iamahardscaper All of them are using roughly the same formula that will eventually break down. I am lucky that I have only lost about 25K roughly replacing this sand before I stopped using it. I have a colleague that went bankrupt because a huge commercial project he completed failed and had to be redone. Never use any of these products as your clients will hold you responsible. If they insist on using it then make it clear on the contract/estimate that you don't recommend it and will not be held accountable if it fails. For pavers I use a 3/4" crushed limestone road base compacted in 4" lifts with a 1" layer of course sand on top for screeding.

[@iamahardscaper]

That is rough. Yeah always cover yourself if a client insists on something. Completely agree. Great advice!

[@Power5]

So normal joint sand and sealer would be your recommendation? I have a new reading rock walkway. It has very small joints 1/8". The installer used regular joint sand and I was thinking I would replace it with poly sand and then seal everything. But if that stuff is garbage I will just seal over the joint sand and stone. Just a straight walkway with boarder pavers concreted into place. Standard limestone crusher base with leveling sand under the 2.5" pavers.

[@markadler8968]

@@Power5 If you are going to seal it now is the time of year. What I would do is take a leaf blower and remove all of the loose sand and debris from the surface of the pavers then seal it as and loose sand gets in the way and ends up making a huge mess.