Ice climbing sequence by Stas Beskin - revised

Short tutorial for an ice climber who wants to optimize the technique

[@4TechRollToll]

Great video, Stas. Really enjoy your technique videos. Happy climbing

[@thomasblasbichler1061]

You have a lot of strenght👍 cool video, thanks

[@charliewoodsman]

Hi Stas, I like your climbing style. One question, why do you release your lower tool before moving your feet, not after?

[@ClimbingADK]

No stas beskin here, but loosening the lower tool from the straight armed position with the solid base is easier than loosening it from the swinging position. He loosens the tool but keeps the placement to help with pulling himself up after he moves his feet. that way he doesn’t need to fight to remove a sunk tool from the locked off swinging position. A very good detail for more efficient steep ice!

[@charliewoodsman]

@@ClimbingADK Thanks Nicholas. That makes a lot of sense.

[@chavenord]

@@charliewoodsman actually your question is great and the answer is not very good. Take a look at Will Gadd's Black Diamond videos and you will see that he recommends releasing the lower tool after standing up. Will Gadd is the God of ice climbing and you will see he has a very logical reason for doing it in that sequence.

[@charliewoodsman]

@@chavenord I do understand Nicholas' point, that it's less tiring to release the lower tool while the upper arm is straight. Stas still hooks the lower released placement. I guess he has sharp tools and confidence in a delicate hook. I've not been able to ice-climb since watching this video, so I've not put it to the test, but I hope to try this.

[@enricociuppa7093]

remember to protect yourself

[@ClimbingADK]

That was a free hanging pillar. You never place screws on free hanging ice. If that pillar releases with a screw in, it will kill the climber.

[@FlatOutFE]

He did a put a screw in the lower portion of that pillar. You can see it at 2:45.