Soldering photo-etched parts for beginners - Great Guide

[@pebblesthecat3625]

If there was a university who did a degree course on assembling models and creating dioramas, you would definetly have to be the course tutor. I can't think of anyone else who constantly provides the skills and knowledge about this hobby in such a succinct and informative way as you do David. Your channel is one of the best on the whole of KZbin.

[@panamafred1]

I'm 72 and learned something new today. Thank you!

[@adamtaylor7412]

PLASMO-I have been building models for 30 years now and I have learned something new, or a different way of doing something every time I watch your videos, please keep them comming and great work.

[@Jake-jw3sk]

I just love the tiger climbing the watermelon at the end of the video! Thanks for the tip!

[@coreyseals4269]

Plasmo I have to say your videos are some of the best out there! You definitely can tell you absolutely love this hobby because your work shows it in every build you do! I found this and most videos you do are very helpful indeed! Thanks for sharing your fine skills with the rest of the world!

[@Tom-Lahaye]

I'm mainly a railway modeler, and have built a lot of PE/White metal Wagon and loccomotive kits. I go with the others who say that you must heat the joint with the flux on it first, and add the solder to it, then pull the tip of the iron allong the joint and the tin will follow when hot enough. This way you can make much neater joints, and enables you to solder joints that will be in sight, without unsightly blobs of solder. Soldering as much as you can on PE parts will make the end result stronger and more durable, any CA joint will fail over time, a good solder joint will last longer than the plastic of the model itself. I'm unfamiliar with the type of flux you use, the liquid resin. But it must have some advantages but also disadvantages over the type of flux I use, which is dilluted phosphoric acid. The main advantage of resin flux is the non-corrosive nature of it, so it doesn't need a very thorough cleaning procedure. But when I compare the way the tin flows in the video with the way tin flows with the phosphoric acid flux I use I conclude that the tin flows much better with the acid flux, and just leaves a very thin film of tin on the surface, that's because the acid flux etches all dirt of the metal including the oxide layer. But it keeps on etching into the metal so after soldering so I wash the parts with cleaning soda (sodium carbonate) to neutralize the acid, but baking soda will work equally well, then I wash the parts under the running tap to flush all residu away, using a toothbrush and an old paintbrush to go into the difficult to reach corners. A glassfibre pen is also a great tool to remove excess tin from vissible area's, it removes the tin very good without damaging the brass. And a warning when soldering on parts that have been glued with CA, the fumes are very irritating and toxic, as they contain cyanide, one of the worst chemical weapons that have been used during WW1, so don't breath those and don't get them in your eyes, that's very painfull as I can tell by experience.

[@fabiobonilha2885]

Simple, direct and very instructive. Congratulations for your video.

[@Serenityindailylife]

Only one warning....it is very easy to overheat smaller parts and even burn yourself quite severely when handling the parts. Brass is an excellent conductor. I usually keep a wet rag and a bowl of ice water to cool parts after soldering them. This is because I have soldered one side before, only to lose the other because the heat reflowed the solder. Great video as usual.

[@jimspc07]

A nice little video. A couple of things I would do slightly differently. I would use the small chisel tip as my main tip not the pointed one.Reason. It delivers heat quicker to the brass allowing faster solder coverage with less "wiping" of the tip on the edge of the brass, as shown here the brass is not heating fast and the solder not running with the flux without continual "wiping". Also cleaning the tip more frequently to ensure even whetting and remove any carbon or residue buildup. And for finishing do not clean the tip, leave a coating of solder on it when finished. Clean it by using the sponge before the next job. Never file, scrape or reshape a tip.

[@bartoncessna1]

Another excellent video David. There is no end to your skills! Thanks.

[@MrVinnyh]

Excellent David, I stumbled across one of aircraft builds, not only enjoying what you create, but also your choice of background music, some of which I have down loaded. Great Stuff!

[@fgm66]

Hi David, I've watched all these videos on soldering and have failed, I even bought new equipment. You've video was really, really helpful... as have been all your other videos. Thank you!

[@MrFishluver]

Awesome!!! I subbed! I've done circuit boards, LED lights but never thought to solder my photo etched parts! Well I will from now on! Great tutorial friend.

[@pebblesthecat3625]

Could I just ask you, if you didn't use solder for your metal photo etched parts, what did you use instead ?

[@tonya4157]

Very informative. Thank you. Now I'm going to dig out my Dad's old soldering iron, get some supplies and try it out!

[@davidlister9982]

Thanks for the handy tip there. Looking forward to seeing the Tiger v watermelon build.

[@deprecatedme]

Wonderful tip about using CA to tack the joint before soldering! Thank you my friend.

[@johnburdis5484]

Thanks David you make soldering such small parts look easy . I'm all all thumb when it come 2 handling these parts. I now feel confident now 2 be able 2 soldering my own photo etched parts.

[@UntimativerSchwabe]

A very good Tutorial. I want to use the soldering technique for some of my pe-parts for my FW190. After i watched your tutorial i know how to do it, thank you.

[@allanatwick1606]

I like that bending tool, works a treat, as for the soldering, I was always taught to heat the materials to be joined then add solder to the work, however, that was for copper pipes, plumbing and building work etc Heating the materials like etched brass can distort the work piece if you get it too hot, also this is not under any stress so this method works well and won't distort your workpiece as heat is minimal. Looking at how you did it it looks faster too this way as your not having to heat up cold parts every time you solder, just my opinion I'm no expert by any means, great vid thank you

[@jonasezequiel3298]

i guess Im randomly asking but does anyone know a tool to log back into an instagram account?? I somehow lost my login password. I love any assistance you can give me.

[@jonasezequiel3298]

@Knox Charlie i really appreciate your reply. I found the site through google and Im in the hacking process atm. I see it takes a while so I will reply here later with my results.

[@jonasezequiel3298]

@Knox Charlie It did the trick and I now got access to my account again. I am so happy! Thank you so much you saved my ass :D

[@knoxcharlie8158]

@Jonas Ezequiel Happy to help xD

[@clydelourensz4077]

Excellent tutorial!!! Very concise and easy to follow.

[@karei2]

Parádní video. Moc díky za návod. Teď se můžu konečně pustit do vlastní stavby leptů. To nanášení kalafuny štětcem a lepení lepidlem před samotným pájením jsou skvělé tipy. Ušetří to spoustu starostí a nervů.

[@chipblock2854]

The best photoetch video I have watched. Thank you. I will give it a try.

[@johncahill3644]

If you're soldering a part that will be visible and you'd like to keep the solder from flowing all over the place, you can restrict where it flows by drawing with a sharpie first...the solder won't cross the sharpie line.

[@makenchips]

I was going to suggest a mask that is a great idea are there other techniques like this to use? Steven columbus michigan

[@AR15-NATION-TACTICAL]

Hello very good video, or can we find the small bottle of liquid that I use you, I can not find on the internet

[@Aerospaceman]

I didn't know you could do this...very nice video for us newbies still at the basic level of model building, Thank You.

[@thomasstephens1598]

That was excellent always wondered why I never see anyone putting photo etch together like this now I know so again great video.

[@ivoferin8176]

Spot on. How do you bend very tiny bits into curves or round shapes? LIke fender hinges?

[@davep4703]

Hi, may I add that in a number of small previously bent parts construction, soldering a joint line from inside the part can avoid cleanup and so sanding away detail from the soft brass. Kind regards, Dave Porter UK

[@Massimo1975Max]

Thanks so much for posting another great video. I look forward to you posting more of your videos. Thanks. Keep them coming.

[@davidstewart1943]

From David to David.....thanks for the great video!

[@gleep83]

This was really useful! Thank you so much. I wish there was a list of where to buy those strange parts, like the sheet bending apparatus.

[@古文鈞-l4e]

David,我喜歡你的教學影片，一步一步的，很清楚，背景音樂也搭配的很好，希望有朝一日也能像你一樣厲害。

[@JoffreyBogemans]

Hi maybe a stupid question what is the ideal temperature for the soldering iron to be set to?

[@nodnodnod2063]

You still can use the soild rosin and dissolve it in alcohol, Isopropanol works great. The liquid flux, most of the time, isn't much else. You can even control the conistency by adding more IPA or letting it evaporate a bit. Done this for years and hat good luck with it. Maybe you can give it a try. And I really like your channel, great vids and many useful tips. Learned a lot from you, thanks. Měj se!

[@hl1796]

really ? i have no idea that rosin is dissolve in IPA alcohol,, so we cut a piece of rosin and drop some IPA onto it, until it mostly dissolve ?

[@prestonian1066]

Should be fine, so long as there isn't a spark or a flame anywhere near you@@hl1796

[@prestonian1066]

"had good luck with it" is exactly what you had. I'd be surprised if you haven't ignited the IPA yet.

[@redbarnz]

Was a good tutorial! Nice to see what you look like too!

[@michaelc9310]

I just want to say that I know how to do this... I learned how to solder in elementary school... You make it look deceptively easy.

[@tigertanktoo]

Another helpful video from you PLASMO. Thank you again for sharing these great tips and information.

[@MrVolvobloke]

Genuinely helpful, thank you! Terry Pratchett fan?

[@allanfreedman1273]

Excellent video - thanks for the series. I find them very helpful!

[@arthurvdv8690]

Tnx for a great how to... Really need to get myself a soldering iron now... Have some huge pe parts coming up.

[@dayarao1555]

good video.learn somethink.Can i know what solder you use plumbing solder core or pcb solder?

[@lemgrubao]

Greetings from Brazil...awesome video and new thecnique for me. keep up the terrific job.

[@007DYK]

Когда смотришь со стороны все так просто и расслабляюще🙏🏻 Как сам начинаешь🤕😁 Красивая у Вас всегда работа👍

[@DNModels]

Hey there! Thanx for the video. Can you share more about the soldering station that you are using?

[@idaemonplasmo]

I use zd-99 solder station. This is cheapest what I found. :-D www.conrad.com/ce/en/product/588415/Soldering-station-analogue-48-W-Basetech-ZD-99-150-up-to-450-C

[@newvictim]

Can it be brazed with a mini torch? or it too thin and with warp it?

[@digitalincometactics9858]

I learned something today! Thanks

[@joburg76]

Thank you David for posting this video, it was very interesting as I'am just starting to use PE upgrade parts for my Saturn 1B and Saturn V.

[@МаксимСазонов-р1ф]

Добрый вечер! Как всегда отличное у Вас видео получилось. Познавательное. делайте по больше таких видео. Удачи Вам и творческих успехов. с уважением Максим.

[@idaemonplasmo]

Большое вам спасибо, и я приветствую Россию

[@c46453]

@@idaemonplasmo david i always thought you are czech

[@scottslothower6840]

What is the name of that metal bending tool? Thank you outstanding models bro!

[@walrus4046]

Been thinking about having a go at soldering water melons...I mean photo etch (sorry got distracted there lol) Always been put off at the idea, but your tutorial demystified the process and I'm confident I will now be able to build models as good as you. 🤔😂

[@mrformoza5397]

So perfect! So useful and simple to understand! I often watch your videos again and again. Your mastering is so fantastic. I just try to do my best to repeat your technic. I know that you enjoy building planes.... I;d like to see your tanks building in 1:35 scale. May be WWII or modern. Best wishes!

[@ayis68]

please the brand of soldering iron and the flux you use thank you

[@oraszuletik]

Great video! One idea: to avoid covering some area with solder, just apply there some lacquer. Easiest way is to use a simple permanent marker pen. For example, your hexagonal component lid soldering would be much easier to limit the solder flow.

[@AndysHobbyHeadquarters]

Very nice video

[@idaemonplasmo]

Hello, the fastest model builder in the world :-D Seriously, you are excellent and thanks.

[@AndysHobbyHeadquarters]

Thank you I love your work as well .

[@jakubulianko9549]

Andy's Hobby Headquarters i love your videos

[@baguettte]

wow didn't expect to see you here!

[@DD-bv9jl]

Andy's Hobby Headquarters Andy i love your videos

[@marcpurkiss3233]

Have you ever tried low melt solder paste/paint? I find it much better for any joint i dont want encapsulating in solder and it already contaibs flux

[@daveshaw2765]

Very useful tips, thanks. It is good to finally match a face to the voice too.

[@DD-bv9jl]

Nice video can i ask will soldering work on diecast cars if i strip the paint?

[@IamBlackdragon]

Thanks was very interesting. Have tried before with a paste flux but looks like I will get some fluid and give it another go.

[@I_Don_t_want_a_handle]

Does PE plus solder require special prep for painting? If so, what?

[@georgemacdonald5282]

Great video, makes it look quite easy.

[@bac6253]

Will lead-free solder work for photo-etch parts? Just concerned about toxins.

[@cg462]

Thanks Dave. Can you tell me what you use to clean up the residue from the solder with

[@patleclerc7227]

Love your videos. Great content and fun to watch.

[@nunomcs]

Does unleaded solder work with photo-etch?

[@benb5841]

Thank you for this video. I've always wanted to try this (instead of the usual superglue methods) - but was just too nervous to actually do it. Now that I have seen you do it, I just HAVE to try!

[@MrBobWareham]

Please can you tell me the name of your soldering iron and the name of the flux you use Thank you, Bob UK

[@nor4277]

I have that soldering iron please tell me where you got the tips from

[@mantozz87]

Finally another video! Welcome back!!

[@idaemonplasmo]

I was out only one month. funny vacation. Corsica GR20 trip

[@ronanbarkus7801]

I used photo etched for the first time the other day and I was wondering what glue would you recommend for the future.

[@FeralRabbit]

Great video. Lots of good tips and techniques. Will be subscribing!

[@EasyTiger700]

very nice video indeed, a pleasure to watch.

[@ifeyecouldpaint]

Hi got to ask where did you get your viper model from

[@johnburdis5484]

Thanks David 4 the soldering tutorial. Very helpfull!

[@AmericanB4D4SS]

what brand soldering iron is that? Its muchg better than mine. Id like to buy one like yours

[@chuckwillis9271]

Excellent presentation. Thank you.

[@MZ72]

have a question for scale modeler's. Let's say I have a brass sheet or plate and shape it like a fender for a diecast car, can I solder the parts into a Hotwheels 1:64 body?

[@powertothebauer296]

What Material is the Body?

[@MZ72]

No idea on what type of metal use in your typical 1:64 Hotwheels diecast cars. I want to customize it and use brass sheet to make a fender or other parts for the car... is it possible? would it adhere to the diecast? TIA

[@DeadlyAssets]

Not sure if it would stick, not knowing what metal it is, you may be best trying a test joint, find a die cast you don't want or an area that would be seen and try it with a bit of brass sheet. if you solder anything you won't regret buying some liquid flux It makes soldering so easy!

[@MZ72]

Yeah, I was thinking of trying it for myself, but first I'll try to grab one of those flame torch at the local hardware store... I'll strip the paint first from the hotwheels and apply soldering flux on the piece of brass sheet and place a few cut strip of lead from the sides and flame-on all the way! hahah I'll do some experimenting.... Big Thanks to all those who response!

[@FlyingScud]

The 'go-to' for modelling advice. David, have you ever used Fryolux 'solder paint' - a mix of solder and flux that can be painted on and soldered? I would like your opinion.

[@BillBard]

Great video! I might have to pick up a soldering iron now! Also, that Tiger is coming for your watermelon!

[@racma8698]

Very instructive demo. Thank you

[@JamesSmith-mv9fp]

Resin ? = a type of Flux. But in Britain there are numerous different types of fluxes each for specific metals. There is also multicore or 4 core pre-fluxed solders, which help avoid some of the messing around with resin and solder as seen in this programme !!!

[@oldbaldfatman2766]

Thanks for another great how to video. Last time I did any soldering was doing a crows foot on a WW 2 German tank which was 30 years ago? It came out okay, meaning I was happy with the result, but.... Didn't know soldering guns now come with different tips and liquid flux even existed.

[@thedynamicgolfcrew2511]

u r a gifted master. I build trains and study your technique.

[@АлексейНовиков-у4я]

Большое спасибо! Очень полезное видео! Скорее хочется попробовать ваши советы на практике. Thank you very much! Very helpful video! Would rather try your advice.

[@alexb1340]

Interesting video. Can you please advise what brand is the liquid Flux you were using and is it an acid free version or do you have to clean any residue off after soldering?

[@pyrypihlajaniemi6196]

hey ur the best model maker on youtube! Could you build next a Finnish bf 109 g for the 100 year-old finland this year?

[@StevePuma]

I was taught by my grandfather that you always heat the work, NOT the solder! This is because you want the metal to wick the solder into the joint. Flux is only supposed to assist in this process. When done properly, the solder is fused into the metal. It's probably not that important for this type of model making, since you do not require the joint to be strong, but it is something to consider, especially when attempting to teach proper technique.

[@Ajial01]

That is important when dealing with electronics because heating up the component too much can damage it, not an issue here

[@deezet9518]

That's right. The flux also marks the area where the solder goes, you heat the metal and there will be just enough solder to fix the metals on exactly the right places.

[@mrkv4k]

No. It would be much easier to solder if you preheat the part and then apply the solder right to the part. Not to the iron tip. This kind of solder has flux in it already, but he burns it up before he even gets to the part he is soldering. Really, try it the other way and you will see.

[@mrkv4k]

It didn't :) Not for a person who does solering regulary...

[@lossantoscity3249]

You are right, But i worked before making amplifiers and speed is one of our elements pre heat or not if its soldered firmly it will last a great amount of time, But since this is "Scale Models" it is not necessary. Most modelers use glue instead and that is already strong then this method is far more stronger. But i think common sense rarely exist in your kind. I mean do you really need to comment something like that on a scale modelling video. LMAO

[@CraigConlee]

What is the clamp you used called? Need one of those!

[@astro-5802]

Отличное и очень познавательное видео. Спасибо! Арбуз выглядит очень аппетитно ☺

[@jjab99]

A great and interesting video indeed. Many thanks for sharing this video tutorial of how to solder PE Parts. It was very useful and I will keep it handy just in case I ever need to look back at it again. By the way Tigers don't eat watermelon, but I do so look out! LOL Have fun with your next project and many thanks again for sharing, Joe

[@lauriepocock3066]

You might want to try limiting where you put the flux rather than flooding the area, so perhaps look for a flux between the two types that you showed, and paint it on the inside rather than the outside, and don't be frightened of the larger tips, I always use a hoof when ever possible , it holds a reservoir of solder so gives a much more uniform thickness. the chisel point is also good for soldering edges. Also wipe your tip each time you charge it with solder. Soldering is a matter of confidence which comes with practice.

[@DeadlyAssets]

you can also get solder and flux together as a paste, apply to the joint with a brush and heat the metal till it melts, the paste does the rest

[@DetailingCars]

im just a few steps away from a massive photo etch session on my model, this was perfect timing plasmo :D

[@idaemonplasmo]

cool. I hope that will be useful.

[@j_holtslander]

Hello from Canada. 🇨🇦 Loving your videos. Subscribed!

[@powertothebauer296]

Hi , nice Video good tutorial , maybe i can suggest , you use another Flux,it is more a paste, and it cleans the surface and holds it clean, this is used for Copper piping, and i also suggest use a soft solder without core, no Electronic solder, also you get a solder paste where the tin is mixed with the Flux so you use a brush, apply where needed and only warm up , later clean only with Tap Water, because this Flux is used for Drinking Water .

[@Derevenskiy_modelist]

Nice video tutorial! Thanks! 👍

[@troruaz]

Hmm... I'm unable to determine if half-eaten watermelon is a model or real. PLASMO is so good, you could tell me it was scratch built based on an old Monogram model of a Buick and I'd believe it :)

[@stoobieman]

Very, very funny Ross! For such a meticulous artist, this seems a strange lapse on the part of Mr Plasmo

[@gstjwright]

Thanks for the video, it has definitely helped me with soldering photoetch.

[@308-6]

лучший канал! The best channel

[@konradalexander7561]

Will there be a build video soon?

[@idaemonplasmo]

This week panzer III 1/72 facebook.com/DavidDamek42/posts/1375160635872105

[@mariowolf6292]

Thanks David. Very good Video. And now learning by doing