Arizona update and how I solder PE

[@williamclifton8503]

Recently started building again for the first time in decades...I've really found your videos to be helpful and appreciate your explanations. Thanks!

[@NigelsModellingBench]

Glad to help

[@ThePeterm64]

Hi Nigel I found your channel and I find it very informative and very helpful in making models and actually inspired me to do something I have not done for over forty years. At 57yrs old I have started to build a 1/350 scale Tirpitz I like building ships and armoured vehicles. Keep up the fantastic work and videos loved your Bismarck and titanic builds. I suffer from depression and know what its like to be slated . Keep the faith keep going I for one will keep watching and learning and practice what you show in your videos Peter moon

[@carlbethard6714]

Another brilliant episode 👌 Right or wong methods don't matter when you get good results. I've tried to solder pe a long time ago and gave up. But I was using simple tools that I now see would never have worked. Thanks 😊😊.

[@briansmith6862]

To stop tiny PE parts from flying away, I put a piece of Tamiya tape on the underside of the fret. Never failed yet.

[@AlbertD711]

That was an extremely useful video. I'll give it a go. Thanks for taking the time to share this.

[@joostverbeek]

Excellent video Nigel, thanks!

[@jzghostrider66]

Can't wait to give this a try. Thanks Nigel.

[@NigelsModellingBench]

Very welcome

[@phillipgowdy3218]

Excellent tutorial Professor Nigel!

[@brucemitchell417]

Absolutely brilliant! You are an excellent teacher.

[@NigelsModellingBench]

Thank you! 😃

[@leonverdonschot3727]

That acrylic sheet is a great idea. I think I am going to make me one to. I have some left over from my previous job as sign maker.

[@THROTTLEPOWER]

One heck of a PE sheet..... Looking good Nigel 😉🙂👌

[@crazylocha2515]

You shouldn't be... Showing techniques that make me go buy more tools. Great explanation and demonstration. I do believe I can do it myself also. Thanks!

[@GregWhite-dj8pl]

Try working on an MDF board with an extra strip glued along the top to get square ends and to bridge your hand on. We use wooden Pegs of various sizes to hold pieces whilst soldering. Try automotive paints without the etch primer and you don't lose detail and it drys quicker, and they will mix small tins for you. A soak in vinegar will etch parts if you are having paint adhesion problems. love the small tools folder and the Carrs red flux too. We work in N scale 1:160 so encounter the same issues.

[@thomaskarbach105]

Thanks a lot for sharing - I like you methods very much - looking forward to next video! 100x thumbs up

[@jeffreycohn6407]

This is so incredibly helpful. Thank you!

[@nathanram809]

fantastic video, much appreciated!

[@NigelsModellingBench]

Glad you enjoyed it!

[@leonverdonschot3727]

I need to get some new tips for my soldering iron. The one I have now is made from copper. With high temperatures it does disintegrate

[@stevenanderson236]

Wonderful job!

[@diogenes34]

That funnel looks great.

[@NigelsModellingBench]

Thank you

[@seavee2000]

I agree 100% with everything you said about cutting PE-I have never understood this "put it on glass or a tile" and cut brigade-all it does is dull a sharp blade very quickly,and as you say,there is severe risk of the blade skating. Personally I use a piece of thick,scrap plasticard but the acrylic you use does exactly the same,ditto the curved No 11 blade. Excellent video,you mentioned all the products EXCEPT the solder you use-I could see it is 62/36/2 rosin solder,any particular brand?? I despise non lead solder,for any use at all other than ballast weight....

[@NigelsModellingBench]

Hi Sean.. i knew I'd forget something.. It's radio shack solder mate. p/n 64-013. It is wonderful stuff.

[@seavee2000]

@@NigelsModellingBench Thanks for the answer-had looked before your answer and this is the one that kept coming up-but unfortunately a US product and thus almost impossible to get, if you can find a company willing to send to Europe then the postage is insane and import duty on top. China is the only option,it seems pretty much all "Western" businesses cannot compete even if they wanted to,thanks to our own rules and regs....and politicians. I used to prefer solder paste for smaller etch parts but this is no longer an option as the stuff sold now isn't a patch on what used to be around,until a find an alternative soldering is out. Interesting video in any case.

[@ModelkitStuff]

Hi Nigel, great tutorial, we probably all should solder more than we do, I dislike the fast bend gaps in etch too. Was wondering what the tape was for on the crane tubes?

[@NigelsModellingBench]

Hi Jason. I have just finished building turret catapult. 100% soldered, railings and all!! The tape on the cranes marks the deck height so I didn’t make the ladders go too low.

[@ModelkitStuff]

@@NigelsModellingBench ah I see, thanks. Soldering railings, not something I have dared do.

[@markakeogh]

Hi Nigel Great tutorial . I was wondering if you could give some advice . I am building the revell platinum Tirpitz . It has 3 sheets of PE , 1 brass coloured ans 2 silver coloured and I am having trouble trying to solder the silver ones , I am using your techniques but solder does not work, am I doing something wrong or is it possible that the silver PE are made from stainless steel . Please advise . Thanks Mark

[@NigelsModellingBench]

Yes, the bright silver parts are probably stainless.

[@markakeogh]

Thanks , that will be why the solder won’t take .

[@MrRusty-fm4gb]

I’ve been watching videos on soldering to improve my skills and those little tabs you’re talking about, Why not just cut them off and solder the parts together without them? I’m sure it’s easier to solder when the parts are already connected like that but it doesn’t look too difficult to solder without them. Also, you could cut all the middle ones out on 1 straight seam, and solder that part, then when it’s soldered in the middle; you could cut the end tabs off and finish the solder on the seam(both beginning and end of the seam). Just an idea… or do I have it all wrong? 6:25

[@NigelsModellingBench]

If I were to remove the tabs i would have lots of separate pieces, so no, I would not remove them.

[@hacheyp]

How is the progress on the Arizona and Titanic?

[@NigelsModellingBench]

Static. When I do work on them I'll put a video up..

[@toboldlygosmodelworks1973]

It's always worth spending that little bit extra on a soldering iron. Have you tried Mr Surfacer on your Baked Beans and Weetabix yet Nige?

[@NigelsModellingBench]

Oh James, you do ask some silly questions!! Of course I haven’t tried Mr Surfacer on Beans or Weetabix yet. I’m still experimenting with crisps and meat products. It does stink under the grille.

[@toboldlygosmodelworks1973]

@@NigelsModellingBench I ask the silly questions, as it helps to confuse the trolls that you get ;) FYI there's already a Nigel's Model Ship channel (RC ships) on YT - it's cropped up in my YT feed more than once Personally I think YT needs a Nigel's MR Surfacer Bench :D

[@NigelsModellingBench]

@@toboldlygosmodelworks1973 trolls are dying off now. I have zero tolerance and have blocked hundreds. Did you know Mr Surfacer 1000 is great at making toast completely smooth? It dries in no time if you get it on quickly.

[@toboldlygosmodelworks1973]

@@NigelsModellingBench Try adding Mr Surfacer to Spam Fritters - helps make the batter or breadcrumb coating extra crispy ;)

[@JeffDonahueScaleModeling]

Great tutorial Nigel, I have been soldering for years, mostly copper pipes! A friend of mine is into jewelry making and swears by silver solder. I know the silver solder is more expensive. I am interested in your opinion. Have you ever used the silver solder for PE, I guess it flows better and is stronger, but that may not be necessary for a model. See you next time.

[@viking1236]

I would suggest the amount of heat required to silver solder the part would melt or deform the very thin photo etch.

[@bowendevin2070]

You prolly dont give a shit but does anybody know a trick to get back into an Instagram account? I stupidly forgot my login password. I would love any assistance you can give me!

[@leoneldangelo3593]

@Bowen Devin Instablaster :)

[@bowendevin2070]

@Leonel Dangelo Thanks for your reply. I found the site thru google and I'm in the hacking process now. Takes quite some time so I will get back to you later with my results.

[@bowendevin2070]

@Leonel Dangelo it worked and I finally got access to my account again. Im so happy:D Thank you so much you saved my ass!

[@paulbridge5706]

Hi mate, two questions really, do you every get to a point where the photo etch is so too small to use and the part from the kit is best to use. Second is, do you ever use micro scissors to cut photo etch instead of blades

[@NigelsModellingBench]

In a word, yes. Some PE is just unnecessary. Even larger parts are sometimes a waste of time over the plastic mouldings. As for removing PE from the fret, I generally use a knife. I have xuron PE scissors but prefer a knife.

[@crazylocha2515]

@@NigelsModellingBench and to the tiny P.E. point, occasionally I watch some of "Ebrion's miniatures" and his work on 1/700 p.e. and my jaw drops. He does a fair amount of scratch building similarly to Nigel. Am always amazed at their skill both. Normally Ebrion's uses 2 razor blades for his folding and would like to see him use soldering as Nigel does too. It really is worth it in the end. Pontos p.e. is usually right at the top near Eduards.

[@NigelsModellingBench]

@@crazylocha2515 I'm struggling with 1/200.. I might try 1/350. 1/700.. NO WAY!!

[@crazylocha2515]

@@NigelsModellingBench agree 150% on the 700 scale stuff. I look at 1/350 as "what's the minimum amount of fiddly small stuff" I can get away with and still look good. Ron and his multiple 200 scale's are amazing and more my speed too, LoL