How to make photo etched parts at home - Great Guide Plastic Models

[@eduardodiasnunes941]

My young! I'm an advanced deity citizen, but I don't get tired of learning to do things! I just have to thank you for your selflessness and sharing knowledge. The world would be different if we had more young people like you! Thank you very much!

[@FergusVoice]

Great reminder from when I made many PCBs - but I had the luxury of a fibre backing to the copper. This fine brass work is stunning and was great to watch!

[@nigeljohnson8022]

Absoloutly amazing!!!!!! This is going to save me a fortune in parts for my railway items

[@АлександрКовальский-к5г]

Я в шоке какая офигенная работа! Слов нет,одни восхищения работой настоящего мастера! БРАВО...

[@paperskills5367]

Anybody can do bad work, but not everybody does good work. Great Work

[@bitemykrank1970]

I DO NOT CARE if this could be dangerous to do at home. That is really impressive stuff. I will be trying this myself, I can't see how it could be a danger, if your careful. The possibilities this opens up for scale detailing are huge. Thanks Mate !! You earned a subscriber on 1 video. I'll have to watch any several times to understand your accent, but I can handle that.

[@3dprintwiz378]

Definitely mind blown right now. I use to etch printed circuit boards, never though it could be used in this way. Nice work.

[@theantichrist6524]

That was eye opening ! And the level of small details that was captured was amazing to see I give your video a perfect 10 it's one of the best how to videos that I have seen online

[@showmesomelove3353]

Amazing work! Its people like you that help keep me optimistic about our future! Thanks for sharing your work! 100% inspiring!

[@JohnDoe-fi9li]

This is pretty neat. I did a couple PCBs back in school using a toner transfer method rather than this. The best part of this method is that you can reuse the masks which is probably a big plus for model makers.

[@icervoid]

I build scale aircrafts and now i have a idea for building photoetched parts for cockpit panels and wheels masks. THANK YOU AND PERFECT WORK.

[@edwordwhy9491]

Thank you for this video, I can watch it over and over and never get bored. Cheers!

[@Krispykashew]

Wow, I expected you to be so much older. Mind Blown. Awesome video Thanks.

[@idaemonplasmo]

Thank you.

[@jahkob84]

yep i asked him in another video for how long he is doing this and he told me hes "only" doing it for some years now and that he is 24 - definatly mind blown!

[@jahkob84]

hehe, keep up the good work!

[@WaRn00b85]

Hahaha. My exact reaction. I was expecting a much older man. And there I thought I'm one of the younger chaps into scale model building (Turned 31 in Aug this year). :P

[@RobotJeeg]

Me too! I saw his hands and I hear his voice. I knew he was quite young but I'm surprised the same! Because his skill ar far superior then the skill of common modelers of his age. He is a fast learner....I'm envy :P

[@geoffrobinson430]

David you make this look easy...but I appreciate you opening up my mind to the possibility of creating PE parts!

[@ibrahimkayikci2146]

I'm a simple man... I see a useful video, I upvote.

[@coreyseals4269]

Level Model God !!!!!! You're unstoppable now David 🙌 I'm giving you the award of best video tutorial ever!!!!! Keep these videos coming 👍👍👍👍👍

[@jesserivera9704]

the highest respect and thanks for this video must be offered. I can't state it any other way than you are a Hero of the modelling/YTtutorial communities. many kudos

[@nismojukerich2994]

Wow!! That's awesome!! Never knew how photo etch parts were made. Seems so simple

[@tillvolkmar]

Stunning work, David! Very inspiring as all your videos. Keep it up. Allways looking forward for the next one :)

[@oldbaldfatman2766]

Many thanks for the how to because I didn't realize how easy it really is. Made a copy of this video and downloaded a lot of fence/gate/fern drawings via Google. There are some dome homes/apartments that are abandoned in S. Korea which have odd shaped windows, kind of like the human eye and now I can make window frames, along with a diorama of people playing whack a mole in the local cemetery against zombies.

[@raytheron]

Great work and an excellent video, David! Hehe I, too, was surprised at how young you are, considering what a craftsman modeller you are!

[@buckeygoldstar6210]

Such a stereotypical response

[@thetoecutter13]

Buckey Goldstar sjw clown.

[@PSRJ-b-ht3wt]

​@@thetoecutter13 Sjw? I don't understand this "you're young so you can't be a good modeler" mentality too.

[@damuses1452]

@@PSRJ-b-ht3wt The reality is... school/university aged boys are like sponges and absorb fine modelling skills quickly thanks to this thing called the internet. This is why I'm never surprised at how some of the artistic level modelers are much younger than I. As I see it, I'm thankful they are around for we old guys don't have the interest in posting videos of our model making.

[@BomenJager]

lol im a mechanical engineer and never seen brass disolving before in my life lol...... nice! now i know where PE parts come from

[@samhammoud1547]

WOW... wow... and wow... you blue up my mind... I never thought that we could do this at home! and me like stupid was always buying them, thanks man... Bravo

[@bbcisrubbish]

I have been using this method for making railway loco name plates and various model tram parts for years. The light sensitive coating chemical I obtained through the PCB trade. Unfortunately I bought the negative one instead of the positive one. It works, but needs more work to set up the design on a PC since it is the printed black lines which are etched. I have had it for some 15 years and keep it in a small fridge. For the developer I use a solution of baking powder (as advised by the PCB trade). I have been using .4mm brass sheet which is fine for name plates etc. but has to be etched from both sides for items as demonstrated in the video. Believe me two sided work is very fiddly to coat and set up. Any way, it was a very interesting video.

[@jordanwhitecar1982]

I have a question. When i get professionally made etched brass parts, they often will have sections that are "half etched" IE, areas where the brass has been partially eaten away. Usually this is done on areas with raised rivets (i model trains, we have lots of rivets) or where the part is intented to be bent when assembling. My question is how would i acheive this? My guess would be to start by printing the rivets on the brass, start the etching process, and interrupt it partway through to add a layer of lacquer on the remaining part i want to protect. Would there be a different way to do this?

[@JohnJ469]

Rather than using a hobby knife to get rid of the bubbles, your local sign supplier has squeegees and very fine points for smoothing down adhesive materials in pricking holes to remove bubbles. Awesome video.

[@stuloveday8032]

Thats a lot easier than I was expecting. Thanks David.

[@inmortuz]

man, really you are awesome!, or as we tell in México "un chingón". Congratulations for your work and thanx for share your knowledges.

[@altair1983]

ferric chloride is super messy it will leave stains that are unwashable. very nice video.

[@starbase101]

It was only briefly mentioned in the video, but the photo-sensitive emulsion should be applied in a "dark room" environment, and the air should be clean (no dust floating around). Dust specs in your film can ruin a print, depending on where it lands. I use a cheap yellow bug light, and the 24 hours while it's drying also needs to be in a clean place so dust and bugs don't land on it. It would have been cool to include in this video the 2-step exposure process showing how to make de-bossed parts (some areas etched partway through, other areas etched completely through). Basically, separate masks for front and back patterns. (Use registration marks on the two design patterns for alignment.) My final comment is it's a good idea to clamp your artwork under a glass plate while exposing with the UV light. If it shifts at all during exposure then that will also ruin your parts. Oh, and always dispose of your used chemicals properly!

[@GalaxyStranger01]

I've been told that many of the milky plastic containers block UV rays. If that's the case, you can just cover it with that and leave it on your desk. Then again, I wonder if solid containers also block UV rays...;-p

[@starbase101]

It's not exclusively UV that exposes the resist - "photo-sensitive" material will react with almost all light, it's just a matter of exposure time. (True, some wavelengths are effectively inert for photoresist, but it's still a good idea to minimize light exposure prior to developing.) People use UV light because it's fast, taking only a couple seconds or minutes depending on the intensity. Normal light will also expose the resist, but it will take longer and then you lose image quality.

[@GalaxyStranger01]

Ah, so go with solid

[@jjab99]

Great results, well done my friend. I will keep a note of this video and if I ever need any PE making, I can look this up again. Many thanks, Joe

[@idaemonplasmo]

Thank you. Professional PE are etched from both sides but it is unnecessarily complicated.

[@SAustin16]

Beautiful work from start to finish. Thank you very much for making this tutorial. Bravo from Texas!

[@verdanskministryoftourism9855]

love how he reads the script first but probably could have just picked up the bottles in any order and read the label. Not calling him out, just thought it was funny. Great video, very useful.

[@TheDirty0ldman]

Awesome! I've been looking at laser CAD cutters but the cheap ones weren't rated for metal. I can finally complete my 1/700 scale fleet at a fraction of the cost!

[@ryanbarker5217]

those came out beautifully, great job. i've forgotten about this process, which is something i think i could find use for in my and my wife's trophy/plaque business. but, you could etch these things and afix them to anything. shoo, you can even build models with them ~ very delicate models. granted, a laser engraver could do all this, too, but, yeah, i don't have the money for one of those yet, lol. a sandblaster could do it, too, come to think of it, but this would probably be by far the most cost-effective....

[@Jobanivrodnachui]

Great video. Also you look very young. But you are so experienced and talented.salute you

[@model-ma-king]

Great video - you can learn a lot. I'm not entirely convinced about using adhesive tape as a support to hold the parts in place. When I tried this method, it was very difficult to get free from the adhesive tape... apart from that, I believe that the ability to create such elements is very developing.

[@rosicroix777]

Thank you very much for posting this tutorial, the only part I'd have trouble getting is the UV lamp, but not that much trouble, just have to save up a week or 2. The amount of detail you can get is amazing & the amount of money a person can save by doing it themselves is great as photo etched parts can add up after a few pieces & whats needed for a given project. Thanks again & the info was worth subscribing as modeling is a hobby that flourishes when knowledge is passed amongst its practioners

[@jerrywhidby5259]

Percy Barbarossa The UV lamp is the same one used to dry polish on ladies' fingernails.

[@loribenson5153]

Wow...very impressive. I watched your other video on molding with blue stuff and of course, immediately ordered. Your videos are very well made and informative. Thank you for taking the time to educate us!

[@chrome72]

Going to try this this weekend on chemical milling of watch dials. Is there a undercut rule of thumb? Like for every 1mm of etching, expect .2mm of undercut or anything like that?

[@Zen_Modeling]

‼️don’t attempt to use any Brass or Stainless Steel thicker than .05”. 👉I just spent a week testing .10” SS on a small motor plate & it took 6+ hours of etching😱(I rotated & even flipped the plate in the NEW HEATED batch of etching solution) So the Sweet spot is .05” or less✅

[@Zen_Modeling]

I used fresh heated etching solution on .05" stainless steel plate & it took 50 minutes to fully etch. Hope that helps some....

[@wakemanedwards3450]

Thanks so much for this demonstration, very kind of you to take the time to share your knowledge of this process with all of us who love modeling and love to add the kind of detail that Photo Etched parts offer.

[@palomino73]

Very impressive results for a really cheap price ! Thanks for posting !

[@ArthurBugorski]

Could you use grayscale or dithering to impart a texture onto the finished pieces? I mean if the template wasn't just solid black.

[@imreulst5975]

Hi, do you think I can etch “perforate” 0,5 mm aluminium speaker grille using same methods? Thank You

[@theresedignard4267]

Great tutorial. Thanks for sharing. I will add this to my book nook project. Keep the videos coming.

[@larrylund1932]

I see jewelry applications. Thanks for reminding me about etching. I did my first etching in 1970.

[@strat588]

Thanks for the demo, you make it look easy! Nice work!

[@craigmurrayauthor]

this is fantastic. How thick, or what is the thickest sheet you could use? As for the printing, if you needed to, you could always have them professionally printed at a local shop, probably would not be that much for a few 8x11's of perfect high resolution

[@casmaran545]

I would like to know how thick can you go because I am trying to do this with a 1" copper plumbing cap. I may just make my pattern on brass instead and do a wrap instead of a cap. So I need to know the thinkest metal I can use. The metal in the video looked paper thin.

[@craigmurrayauthor]

@@casmaran545 hey dude, I'm not the maker of the video, but it's a good question. most etching becomes a thing of time. time in the acid or time with the current. the longer you leave it, the deeper it gets. best thing, try it, take a video and share

[@villaalle]

Do you think it would be possible to produce watch hands this way? Thanks

[@josepramonperezgarcia1459]

Simply amazing. You're a master, David. Thank you for sharing your knowledge.

[@idaemonplasmo]

I just tested this technique two weeks ago. This was my second attempt. Learn and share. :-D

[@josepramonperezgarcia1459]

+PLASMO - plastic models What will you do in two months...

[@ajitkarulkar3719]

I was knowing it but never saw practical....Thanks a lot

[@cdrseabee]

How do they get recessed areas on parts? Expose a second time and stop the process early?

[@MiniatureWorld_01]

What is max thickness that still can be ecthed using this technique ?

[@georgeton4991]

1mmish

[@Ale-dh9mv]

Would this work on brass?

[@Zen_Modeling]

Yes

[@onetwenty4_633]

did the brass sheet are same with brass sheet use to photo etch for pcb board/electronic board

[@iandourley3127]

How do you partially etch? As in not all thr way through the sheet? I want to try some viking knotwork decorations for my space wolves but will need some partially etched lines as well as the complwtely empty areas.

[@jeromebecton7217]

Amazing. Just have to figure out how to make the parts on clear paper and the photo etching process can be done at home.

[@Timotheus157]

Very cool! Perfect etchings to build models and dioramas.

[@HazielBlack]

I declare you high overlord of the modelling community!

[@albertoestrella5098]

Hey I have to ask you ,What do I use if I can't find Positive 20 in My USA what can I use.

[@FalconScaleModels]

How to protect disc rotors from being oxidized because they are made of brass or copper. Can stainless steel or aluminum be used instead?

[@ruisilva8222]

Hello. I followed your instructions exactly but I never get results like yours (Three attemps not one useable etch). I think the problem is with the Positiv 20 as the images I get after dvelopment are never as distinctive as yours. Do you knoe any other method to transfer the images to the metal? Thanks

[@Jeroen-i1d]

do you draw everything yourself? I want to do the same with a steering wheel from my pocher model, but I cannot draw the steering wheel digitally.

[@jamiegroskopf8905]

Can this be adapted to etch Aluminum like this using just HCL or some other active dissolving agent?

[@carlop7958]

I know this from making electronic circuit boards. And i ever had the problem at very fine structures that they are etching away from the sides instead of the front where the protection laquer is. Didnt you?

[@AboutPolishProducts]

What type clear foil was used? Must one use a laser printer? If I take the artwork to a printer, what instructions must I give them?

[@jockellis]

AboutPolishProducts You want a lithographic positive image. This entails two generations of image unless you supply a negative image.

[@RoRototo493]

Thank you for this! I've been wanting to know how this is done and your step by step method is really appreciated. Will you cover at some point how you made the template in GIMP and what sort of DPI you need for it to be clear? Can you use templates and convert them?

[@joel4166]

Awesome! thanks for the information I'm a beginner and am learning so much from your inspirational video's Cheers from Canada Great Work!!!

[@michaelcuevas5604]

This video was great i was looking for videos on what machine to use but this is just awesome

[@hamstrungharry259]

Thank you! I live in Slovakia and I don't know what these are called in Slovak or czech as I only speak English unforunately, this definitely helps me out!

[@fedetroppogiusto9014]

4:11 what material is it? the orange bottle with written LIH TECHNICKY ... Thank you

Clean technical alcohol

[@nak3dxsnake]

Thank you so much. This is incredible and perfect for the detailed pieces I plan to make to go with my miniatures. Could not be happier I found this knowledge and your videos. thank you sir.

[@juaninci]

in your oppinion whaat is the max thickness of the brass what do you recomend im planed on use 1mm or 2mm brass sheet

[@GalaxyStranger01]

A year ago, he posted .2mm max for his liking.

[@JeppePaaBjerget]

This is the same method to use when making homemade circuit boards?

[@idaemonplasmo]

Yes, you have absolutely right.

[@ThrowawayModeller]

For UV lamp, do those for nails do the job?

[@idaemonplasmo]

I used in video UV lamp for nails and it works perfectly.

[@ThrowawayModeller]

PLASMO - plastic models Thanks for the reply. I'll be sure to try it out! Just gotta be careful with chemicals.

[@dufyno7070]

Přehlédl jsem.Promiň. Díky za naprosto skvělá videa.

[@lancesellers5368]

I am thoroughly confused, I tried this using photo resistant film (positiv 20 is not available in the states) with images printed on a clear sheet as you showed. After exposing the image I got reversed results as the black images on the clear film ended up being the area that was going to be etched away from the brass sheet. What am I doing wrong?

[@jeroenk3570]

Probably the photo resistive film you used is UV curing, just like UV curing paint. Maybe you can make an inverse sheet.

[@musoseven8218]

Amazing work as always. I think I'd use the safer version, knowing my luck, my chemicals would go critical and I'd create a wasteland in the South of England! That would be okay if I localised it to Downing Street lol David, may I ask where you purchased the UV light/what brand it is please.

[@t.j.lemaster8653]

Very talented and I enjoyed watching your videos keep up the awesome work man!

[@johnnasta]

This is great but Positiv 20 is not available in the US. Is there another product that would do the same thing? I want to use the sodium hydroxide / ferric chloride method. Thanks!

[@dalemeyer3774]

Excellent video. Do you know of a way to make custom masks for photo etching? I need to make some very special precision parts for an antique German musical trumpeter clock out of 0.127mm thick brass sheet (0.005 inches).

[@georgeton4991]

many etching companies online Sir.

[@robinhooduk8255]

super tutorial, i have a question about gimp. what dpi settings are you using for the image? i use gimp all the time so the designing would be easy. :) thanks.

[@robinhooduk8255]

also just wondered is there a way to half etch parts without doing the process twice?

[@idaemonplasmo]

I used some default dpi. Gimp is just one solution vector graphics will be much better.

[@idaemonplasmo]

Etching from both sides is very complicated and I do not recommend it

[@mahna-mahna6408]

300dpi is recommended for printing, at least not less than 150dpi. 600dpi is very detailed, already too much for most hand made operations. 1200dpi and higher is uselessly too much detailed and even some printers cannot follow it.

[@slipknotfan2217]

@Dorsey Ottesen shut up, don't ruin another video

[@WW2modeladdict]

can the clear plastic sheet with the printed design be re used?

[@GalaxyStranger01]

Yes

[@CAMgeek]

what kind of tape are you using that it comes off that easy?

[@lemonpemonofficial1281]

is the lacquer put on the side with the duct tape or the other side

[@ThomasBuchwinkler487]

+PLASMO - plastic models can you prime the photo eached parts with every Primer ?

[@tanukhan1486]

Sir can we use hydrogen para oxide and hydrogen cloride for iron etching design.

[@FredrikSvensson1979]

If you have access to a laser cutter / engraver there is a quicker way. You can skip everything up until the etching. Put your brass piece on the tape, spray it with spray paint, put it in the laser engraver paint side up and at a very low setting engrave the piece with a negative image of your pattern. The paint has now been removed from the parts that should be etched. After etching the remaing paint can be removed with rubbing alcohol or what ever dissolves it.

[@fangirl988]

Hi there, I was just wondering can you use a uv torch. Thanks

[@cypylix82]

Hello, How do you print on plastic sheet? With normal ink printer? What type of plastic sheet is that? thank you

[@salc9593]

Thank you for posting this video... I would like to ask how you might be able to etch a second level on a etch part like the gate. Thank you.

[@VoltisArt]

Multiple passes with both the photo lacquer and the solution. Do the full etching first, then the partial etching.

[@chetangaralapur8437]

Thank you for the tutorial. Very informative. I wanted to know if there are any alternative to photosensitive lacquer?

[@pierrepaul6998]

Wow you are amazing kiddo wow simply fantastic . BRAVO well done i love it

[@rocko112camaro]

Great vid and very informative. Always wanted to know how to make my own etched parts. Thanks again.

[@konzy.]

what chemical are you using 4:14?

[@micilebase]

👍 really nice 👍 , can sunlight exposer open the film instead of uv lamp ?

[@1990sRailfan]

I'd love to get a hold of that Positiv 20 spray. Doesn't seem to be anything like that available in the U.S.

[@idaemonplasmo]

This stuff is from Germany. In the US is called Positive Photoresist Developer made by US company MG Chemicals. Otherwise, you can use a different technique with photoresist foil. Here is an excellent video from Luke Towan channel kzbin.info/www/bejne/e3vWc42NpteBY8k I hope it will help.

[@1990sRailfan]

Thanks Plasmo! Funny you mentioned Luke's video as I have it pulled up right now in another window. I own the Micromark system and I'm getting ready to use it, but god, that spray technique seems much simpler.

[@MaxSMoke777]

Crazy! It's like laser etching without the laser.

[@Lucian.Zaharescu]

What kind of transparent sheets did you used ? Can you remember the brand name ?

[@pebblesthecat3625]

*David* Does it have to be a certain type of UV lamp, with a particular wattage, or would any UV lamp be suitable, such as the cheap UV nail lamps offered on Amazon for £10 ? This would be the only reason I would be buying one, so I don't want to spend any more money on it than I have to. Thanks.

[@benoitlemaire9072]

Good question! Can find UV lamp for nail at 15-25€. Between 24 and 80W. Would it be powered enough for this task? Many thanks Davud for all your work.