IFSC Climbing World Championships - Innsbruck 2018 - Boulder- Finals - Men

[@EwainW]

Wow, just... wow. Best finals I've watched and Kai Harada looking so precise and strong. Great to see Gregor and Jongwon Chon looking relaxed and enjoying every moment. A real pleasure to watch.

[@epincion]

Thanks, fantastic quality of filming, kudos to the Austrian TV network. Harada a deserved winner.

[@XHeadhunter66]

Timestamps for the Problems: *Contains Spoilers if you do quick maths* - Nathan Phillips 6:05 27:36 53:31 1:20:26 Keite Watabe 10:09 32:26 58:47 1:25:49 Kai Harada 14:43 35:00 1:03:10 1:30:40 Gregor Vezonik 17:19 37:09 1:06:45 1:34:16 Jongwon Chon 19:32 41:19 1:11:25 1:38:47 Kokoro Fujii 22:15 46:44 1:15:04 1:44:40

[@SchaeferPhilipp]

youre doing gods work bro

[@morganilrosso3323]

True 😂

[@OoCalibanoO]

Great stream! Kei Harada completly crushing those boulders

[@SeungwonKim-i2m]

Kai harada's strength is insane. He seems like he comes from another planet..

[@Mmrrn2]

Production quality is insane.

[@larakosi2641]

im from slovenia and its amazing to see 2 slovenians in top three,janja winning in womens🥇 and gregor getting 3rd in mens🥉💖💖💖

[@fructifer4502]

I really appreciated the DJ in this event :D They changed the music constantly to match the starts/holds/falls/tops

[@steveanddunks]

great commentary

[@kim98677]

This guy talks about the iron cross so many times and never ever has there been anything near being an iron cross lol

[@Melchiwhip]

I can see some climbing in this parkour event

[@neo778]

This is current boulder style. In „lead“ you see more traditional climbing.

[@Del1Dub]

@@neo778 ok franz

[@David-ud9ju]

You want boring climbing, go watch lead. There would be no point having bouldering if it didn't have dynos in it. Also, boulder 1 was the only dyno problem. 2 was slabs, and 3 and 4 were pure strength. I don't know what bouldering competititon you just watched, but there was no parkour in any of them and only 1 problem was dyno based.

[@sergiogta92]

1:31:19 is how you applause after a bouldering session

[@OmegaLok]

Climbing starts at 5:48

[@AtrolinK]

I scrolled all the way down the comments because i was looking for you

[@tobiaslueck94]

Jesus this lightflashing after a top is causing Epilepsie

[@neo778]

Great finals! In some moves the camera team should be told that body positioning and foot placement is more impotant than only to show only the upper body part. E.g. in slaps and dyno moves.

[@androgynousmaggot9389]

I'm rewatching all those comps, and Harada's lying on the mat after failing the last boulder in junior WC was heartbreaking! He was spectacular here! Impressive strength! However, I think he's a little too emotional for his own good. Knowing how much competition he has in Japan, not buckling to pressure is a skill of its own!

[@juremozetic]

Perfect song timing as he makes the grab 1:10:12

[@Joe.484]

These japanese guys are ridiculous strong. So cool .

[@larakosi2641]

WOW amazing to see two 19 year old winning😊

[@BetaRoutesetting]

First of all: Respect to the route setters - hard job & they created a clear ranking & a show for the audience! (the show aspect is controversial i know but start accepting it - it´s a tv sport now) Thoughts: Spectacular final which is quite controversial regarding the style of the single boulders * All boulders had at least one dynamic move * B1 & B2 had a really easy top part after the zone * Ranking / Show & action are on the route setters side - if it is a „fair“ comp without the „typical“ crimpy problem we'll never know * Probably a lot of people don’t agree with the dynamic style of climbing in this comp but who’s in charge of the diversity of a round: setters / ifs / organizer - and whose decision was it to have 4 dynamic boulders? * I was entertained and enjoyed watching it - burly full power problem was missing imo - but when It comes to crimping the last move of boulder 4 made it up for that * Its a hell of a job setting for those guys and we talked about the way how to separate people in attempts before and they did that quite good * Kai Harada climbed calm and in control especially at boulder 4 - flashing this problem that easy was very impressie * Can’t wait for Sundays combined final. Will be exciting to see it first time live Full detailed analysis: kzbin.info/www/bejne/rnumiYKOjN-Nd68

[@fraeni90]

agreed, 100%.

[@GinoTheSinner]

"start accepting it" actually got tired of it and the parkour style. I initially liked it but there is so little climbing here like pure strength or at least some overhung problems with compression or slopers or something.

[@ZeroIsntTheHero]

Is the video of the women's bouldering final hidden somewhere? Also, I've run into an issue where some of the videos have been restricted by location.

[@jwlarocque]

Yeah the women's bouldering final is blocked in the U.S., so you don't even see that the video exists. (found through Five Ten's playlist)

[@feikibio]

Kai just flyes on bouldering, bravo.

[@sarahm.6980]

hello can someone please explain to me the scoring system, how did harada have 7 attempts at top and 6 attempts at zone?

[@Casau22]

It took him 6 attempts to reach 4 zones and 7 attempts to reach 4 tops, you necessarily have equal or more attempts to reach the top because you pass by the zone to do so(only if you have same amount of tops/zones)! For example, to make it easier to understand, if it was 4 attempts for 4 zones, and 5 attempts for 4 tops, that would mean that only once he reached the zone and didnt make it to the top but made it to the top with only one more try, i don't feel clear at all in my explanations but hope it helps you out

[@abuzarov]

AFAIK, if you place one hand on top of the other on top hold, it doesn't count as top. Both hands must be secured on the hold itself. Isn't that so?

[@Null-lz5mr]

The absolute state of the sport

[@msdubs007]

Ifsc, you're channel is missing the women's finals for lead, boulder and combined for 2018, also no semifinals for the men or women??

[@sportclimbing]

Hi, Viewers from the USA can find these videos on the Olympic Channel. Additionally, the Innsbruck WCH Lead Finals are available on our Facebook page under the 'IFSC Classic' video playlist.

[@msdubs007]

@@sportclimbing thanks so much for the information, it's greatly appreciated!

[@msdubs007]

@@sportclimbing what Olympic channel are you talking about?

[@darthnihilus4074]

Anyone know why Tomoa wasn’t there?

[@androgynousmaggot9389]

He didn't pass the semifinals, same as Kruder, Hojer, Shubert, Rubtsov,etc! You had to top all 4 boulders in semis. Narasaki didn't manage the 3rd!

[@joovali]

천종원 홧팅!!

[@jonasmaiberg4987]

No Austria😥

[@FlecheDeFer]

Amazing Kai, but there is still an area where he can obviously improve: interviews! :-D A bit disappointed by the importance the zone took here, I know it has to be tough given the new rules giving more weight to the zones, but too much is too much: the second part of the boulder can't be discarded like that. Too bad Tomoa did not make it to the final, these boulders would have suited him perfectly and there would have been a great match with Kai.

[@kevinrosario6928]

anyone else can't help but laugh when the nathan for you intro song plays?? lol

[@isabelnecessary5915]

1:52:30 interview

[@mathias5277]

Well...that was disappointing, 4 of 4 boulder parkourstyle, 2 of the 4 the zone was also the top at the same time. I wonder if the route setters really like the modern style or if they are just afraid that with real bouldering there is no subdivision. Please less of this jumping around and again more classic rock climbing. You write bouldering with B and not with P, like parkour!!

[@marcosjuan3142]

You read my thoughts

[@fraeni90]

Mathias Seiler route setting style is definitely debatable - but getting 4-3-3-2-2-1 tops is pretty solid route setting difficulty wise.

[@taascheee]

Totally agreed. Difficultywise it was perfect, but too much parcourstyle. Those coordination parcour moves are cool and fun to watch, but one or maybe two boulders would be enough.

[@fraeni90]

Belex just adding to the discussion, that’s all :)

[@smyteyouall8256]

We all love a dynamic move but yes, this was much of the same all the way through. Difficulty could also have been a squeeze higher. But veriety in the setting would be nice. Setting is such a hard job.

[@天の声天の声]

I proud of Japanese

[@СашаАбашин-ч3ц]

2019

[@Triggerboy78]

Awesome camera work!!! Bad route setting in terms of style... even though dividing the group was good! Please more bouldering and less dynoing in the future!

[@David-ud9ju]

Only 1 had dynos in it. The other 3 didn't. Go and watch it again.

[@Rude_i_Wredne]

@@David-ud9ju are we so far into that dyno propaganda that being at least a 3-part dyno is the requirement for something to count as a dyno? 1st boulder was obviously dyno based, but 2nd boulder consisted of two parts, second of which being dyno (and first of which was sort-of-staticed only by one climber), 3rd boulder's crux was again the dyno right after the zone, 4th boulder was the least dynamic one, but still was far from being static.

[@Kurvensohn]

Ich mag Kuchen.

[@xianzhou4755]

*spoiler* - - - - kai: didn't win the youth world championships?? guess i gotta go and win the senior world champs a month later now!!

[@tomega4967]

Where is the climbing in this Finals? Boring Boulders...

[@neo778]

Tomega any examples how you would seperate the athletes with traditional climbing at such a high level? Bouldering evolves a lot in recent years and makes it very spectacular. Of course, no average climber can do this. But look in boulder gyms, there are many young talents to grow up with modern dynamic boulder technics!

[@tomega4967]

You're right. But there could be at least more "normal" climbing moves and not just one jump, one foot moving higher and your at the top^^

[@cft103]

For an example, go back and watch Munich. 1 coordination move in the men's final, 1 in the women's final, and in both of those cases the coordination move wasn't the crux, and multiple athletes fell on other moves on those boulders. And yet, no athletes tied in male or female. From what I can remember, pretty much every world cup this year was back in the "traditional" style with maybe 1 coordination move per finals, and I don't remember there being a lot of ties (and multiple comments from athletes about how they enjoyed the return to the "older, traditional style" throughout the year). Sure, there were problems in Munich where people kept falling on one move, but it wasn't always the same move, and it wasn't always the first/only move on the boulder. Compare that to Innsbruck, and you have everyone falling over and over on the same dyno, and then easily flashing the rest of the problem. I don't want to watch 30 minutes of each boulder where athletes are just getting frustrated and jumping at the same move over and over again. How is it that everyone keeps using the excuse that it's too hard to separate pro climbers using the traditional style and now they have to use low-percentage coordination moves (effectively making the whole competition a coin-flip), when they've managed to do it at pretty much every other competition this year?

[@isabelnecessary5915]

1:16:06 lol

[@KirbSyde-vf4cf]

Alex Honnold is the one and only master climber on the Earth.

[@GamersOnTheStorm]

he is a master for sure but he couldnt touch what these guys are doing

[@androgynousmaggot9389]

No he's not, he's good, but not even top ten sport climbers!

[@MrHeizenberg]

Irritating to watch. Video jerky. Such a shame this is a regular occurance from the IFSC, please try and sort it out!

[@beachvolleynet]

No problem here at all. Maybe it's your connection or viewing device causing the problems?

[@bengardner1637]

I have noticed this... only a problem on my phone, ok on chromecast and roku...

[@michaelyo874]

so boring when compared to female one. all were too easy

[@paulmitchell5349]

Rather boring.Bouldering on real rock needs the climber to find the holds and adapt to what is visible.Indoor bouldering has nice bright colours and easily analysed sequences.Yawn.