ILFORD HP5 FILM PHOTOGRAPHY

Video Description
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Pushing HP5 to 1600.
I needed some new wall art for my studio walls. I'd bought the frames, mat board, HP5! All I needed was a subject to shoot.
I knew I was going to use the Mamiya 645 and the 120mm Macro lens. And I knew I wanted some arty looking abstracts. But didn't know what. Then after the roll of film sitting there for over a week I realised how cool my film camera parts would look.
I pushed the HP5 to 1600 just to ad a bit more punch to the images.
About my videos
----------------------------
If my videos inspire, create ideas and help others in film photography and darkroom work then it's worth making them.
I always welcome comments that are useful towards the video subject that will help others understand the process within.
Keep shooting and thanks for watching.
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[@bigjim4231]

The Antihalation Backing coats the film base opposite the emulsion side. The purpose is to prevent light from passing through the emulsion and film base, striking the camera pressure plate and bouncing back. The antihalation backing is chemically inert and has no impact on development. The object of the development exercise, however, is to process the film with the minimum amount of "wet" time; a wet emulsion is a tender thing indeed. Unless specified by the film manufacturer, a pre-wash just extends wet time and is not necessary or a good idea.

[@ShootFilmLikeaBoss]

Cheers Jim. Good info!

[@ShootFilmLikeaBoss]

So what's the damaging effects to the developed negative from a longer wet time?

[@bigjim4231]

A wet emulsion is easy to damage, and the longer it stays wet the softer it becomes

[@ShootFilmLikeaBoss]

@@bigjim4231 so the silver halides get damaged probably resulting in less quality tones and sharpness

[@bigjim4231]

@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss The emulsion itself can be damaged since it is soft from being wet for a long while. The gel can stretch or move and if left long enough just drop off the base.

[@poniatowski3547]

what a fantastic idea! great video.

[@honda86tb]

Really nice video. Photos look amazing

[@ShootFilmLikeaBoss]

Cheers Terry

[@davidlewis1787]

Jesus, just realised you only have 10.5 k subs...there’s no justice in this world your content is brilliant..and you don’t have a silly catchphrase about your hair somehow being sentient and able to verbalise it’s relationship to photography....👍

[@ShootFilmLikeaBoss]

😂😂

[@4235141030]

Amazing!!

[@tylerhuttosmith]

Looks great! I’m definitely going to steal this idea

[@snax_4820]

You are really the boss! That video helped me out.

[@kevinthephotographer9346]

Great results Roger

[@minisla]

Enjoyed the process

[@josephbergel5234]

The prewash turning blue/pink (T-Max) is from the anti-Halation later that helps the film not reflect any light during long exposures ect ...pre-wash is not recommended for all development types ... like two bath /maybe stand Dev (over-rates/and sub par results usually)...keep up the great channel too !

[@johanholmert2818]

Your my great inspiration!

[@qnetx]

Beautiful images and framing.

[@stonex55]

incredible channel

[@YesImZane]

Is it just me or is the film advance lever on the pentax spotmatic a beautiful shape?

[@jlewal]

Beautiful prints my goodness 😍

[@ShootFilmLikeaBoss]

Thanks Jeremy. They worked out well.

[@IainHC1]

Brilliant and productive video :-) Cheers chap :-)

[@ShootFilmLikeaBoss]

Thanks Iain

[@Luxf11]

The blue colour of the pre-wash is, I think, the anti-halation layer coming off Thanks for great content

[@ShootFilmLikeaBoss]

Yes I believe it is

[@amosk24]

Really nice video. Those prints look amazing. Hard to choose just three. Keep it up 😀

[@agathedavain]

You are well equipped, knowledgeable and talented! Thanks for this very interesting video showing the backstage of the process 👌

[@ShootFilmLikeaBoss]

Agathe DAVAIN Thanks Agathe!

[@HectorHernandez-lj8nf]

This might be one of the best videos I've seen... Keep it up!!! :)

[@andrewfisher9391]

Well done! Very inspirational. I really appreciate your approach to these educational videos, starting from the initial concept, shoot, development, printing and framing. Enjoyed every minute.

[@ShootFilmLikeaBoss]

Thanks Andrew! Kind words.

[@NasserAlhameli]

I did once brok my thermometer cuz I used to mix with it! Great vid thanks!

[@ShootFilmLikeaBoss]

Thanks for watching! Mercury everywhere! Ouch. Not happened to me.... yet

[@aklivn49]

BEAUTIFUL... GREAT JOB! I LOVE shooting & developing 35mm and 120 B&W film. But I scan 'em to my MBP. No room for a darkroom.

[@ShootFilmLikeaBoss]

I started off in the bath. It was tight but manageable.

[@aklivn49]

yah, I don't have enough experience to even use a darkroom... lol shooting, developing, and scanning works for me.

[@stephendeakin2714]

That matting board machine looks great, would like to make one, could you please do a video on just how it works, as a guide to anyone of the DIY let's have a go frame of mind.

[@lostintransitphoto]

Another great video. I like these where you take it from the capture of the image through the printing process until it is put on the wall. I agree with a comment below, that a video on proper matting would be very helpful. I do not have the kit for it, nor do I know what I really need. A short video on that would be helpful. I like the idea of shooting the cameras and will give that a go. One last idea to share, I loved your contact sheet. It might be nice to properly print and display that. It would have a bit of the modern art feel, but mixed with a very traditional medium. Nothing imparts the artistic and scientific aspects of film photography better than a contact sheet.

[@ShootFilmLikeaBoss]

Thanks Patrick. Okay, I'll rattle something up for those interested matting.

[@AnthonyWeekesE1Tech]

Wow! Amazing!!!!🔥 I have never done darkroom printing and this makes me excited!

[@jolobailo]

cool

[@beckclewlow]

so great, one of my favourites of your videos. so glad you’ve stuck at this cause your quality has gotten even better ! i bet it’s really educational for people starting out, wish i had you when i started. thanks

[@ShootFilmLikeaBoss]

Thanks Beck. Encouraging words. :)

[@thyau]

Hi. Do you have a video explaining how to print with black borders? Would love to see a more detail video on hot to frame, including cutting of mat board.

[@ShootFilmLikeaBoss]

I do, scroll throughy vids :)

[@ianhand5006]

Great video! I actually shot some HP5 in my Canon T90 today. I used my chrome nose 35mm f2, which is quite a heavy combination! Will develop and scan tomorrow.

[@ShootFilmLikeaBoss]

What was you shooting Ian?

[@bjornstefansson2618]

i test my fixer every time by putting a bit of the film in it and se how long it takes to clear the strip, then i double that time when fixing for real.

[@retrofocusing]

I think it's the anti-halation mask being washed off during the pre wash procedure. As always, great video!

[@ShootFilmLikeaBoss]

Thanks Borys!

[@huibi]

Nice work! I have a enlarged as well but never tried to use it. Maybe it is time to start.

[@ShootFilmLikeaBoss]

You should. It's great

[@gotcameras]

THIS WAS GREAT AM GONNA HAVE TO DO IT LOL

[@ShootFilmLikeaBoss]

Still on my wall!

[@flam3srock]

Another great video, you should look into color photography as well before it goes away (likely in the next few years.) RA-4 printing is not hard and can be done in your condensor with a lifx bulb.

[@Irnbruist]

flam3srock can you elaborate on that, as I have a lifx bulb already; what is your RA-4 workflow?

[@clivevincent4969]

As others have already said the dye in the pre wash water is the anti hilation layer dissolving off the film. Like you I always pre washed my films for years but on there website Ilford don't recommend doing it. Last couple of films I developed I skipped the pre wash and it didn't make any difference to the process.

[@ShootFilmLikeaBoss]

Thanks Clive!

[@markharris5771]

A brilliant video, really enjoyed it all the way through. I only have the ruler and cutter for mounting images, but as I have no upper body strength I only tried a couple of times and gave up. Perhaps if I got some better kit I might be able to give it a try again. I’ve always washed my colour film but never bothered with black and white...until now! Beautiful images, that looked even better mounted.

[@ShootFilmLikeaBoss]

Thanks Mark! I got it years ago second hand.y back starts to ache after a while cutting mounts!

[@scuba6663]

Thank you for the great video! I don’t remember if you said what type of paper you used? Pictures came out very nice I think!

[@ShootFilmLikeaBoss]

Long time ago scuba. Probably Kentmere or Ilford but definitely Resin

[@Frisenette]

HP5, Rodinal and pushing doesn’t appear to be three things you often hear recommended together. But it seems to have turned out well. How was the grain?

[@ShootFilmLikeaBoss]

Clean prints. They are only 10x8 from a 645 neg. Maybe a different story if it was 35mm.

[@mamiyapress]

Do you think that Distilled Water makes any difference in film development?

[@ShootFilmLikeaBoss]

I haven't put the two (tap water) side by side so I'm not sure. I've had no problems with tap water though when I've used it.

[@b.brauner7500]

@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss it will also depend on the PH (hardness) of the water. I didn't have any noticeable difference between distilled and tap water

[@andrewcroft2570]

Great video, I'm glad you have an EF because I'm a little confused about mine, it has a mirror lock-up. In what circumstances would you want to use mirror lock-up, please? Also, have you made any videos on framing and mounting prints, please?

[@ShootFilmLikeaBoss]

Hi Andrew. I do have a video on mounting prints somewhere on the channel. Try this one. kzbin.info/www/bejne/q4iWqJ9obK-aZ68 Mirror lock up is often used to eliminate shake on longer tripod exposures. To stop the mirror slapping and causing vibration. Although I don't tend to use it much. I've not had any reason to as I've never seen any problems with the mirror slapping. YET

[@andrewcroft2570]

Cheers Rodger@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss

[@ewbeyer1104]

Which macro lens are you using for your 645?

[@ShootFilmLikeaBoss]

Hey Erik. It's the 120mm f4

[@d3DMediaPaintStudio]

Great video and love your channel. I have learned a lot from you. I noticed you printed on 8 x 10s in this video. Question, how far would you push your prints (for example 11 x 14 +) from the 35mm negative to preserve clarity? It would be nice to see you do a video on this subject. :-)

[@ShootFilmLikeaBoss]

I don't like taking 35mm past 10x8 to be honest. But you can achieve arty results enlarging a 35mm neg on large paper. A more grainy broken up looking print. Even taking a portrait, say on 50mm lens, from afar, so your subject is smaller on the negative, then enlarging in to head and shoulders on a 10x8 paper which will make your subject more grainy and broken for an arty look. I have never done this so I may do a video on this soon and see what results I get!

[@d3DMediaPaintStudio]

Thank you so much to clarifying this for me!! This would be very interesting to see your results should you do a video on this subject. :-) Thank you for replying!! Off to the darkroom. :-)

[@ShootFilmLikeaBoss]

@@d3DMediaPaintStudio I should also add finer grain films like Kodak Tmax 100 which is a fine grain film will produce a better result enlarged than say Kodak Tri-x 400 which is a more grainy film.

[@d3DMediaPaintStudio]

@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss Hmm, maybe I will try it out. I will share my results. Do you have a blog page?

[@ShootFilmLikeaBoss]

@@d3DMediaPaintStudio Just tag me in Instagram if you use it. @shootfilmlikeaboss

[@legofest]

I mainly use Ilford HP5 and FP4 and I pre-wash them every time (if I remember...) but I've never had the water come out that colour! I used to use Rodinal and it always changed colour when I poured it out, I switched to D76 afterwards and it's only since then I've been pre-washing, so maybe the colour in the water comes from rodinal residue in your tank?

[@ShootFilmLikeaBoss]

Its definitely the film Tom. I always get that colour on 120 film but never 35mm.

[@legofest]

Shoot Film Like a Boss that's interesting, it must be be me not washing well enough!

[@yasha8951]

How do you recognize that the fixer is exhausted?

[@ShootFilmLikeaBoss]

Usually you'll notice brownish yellow staining in areas of the print.

[@yasha8951]

thanks, i'm learning a lot from your videos, i started to work in my darkroom 2 weeks ago, I've being doing something almost every day, its amazing

[@ShootFilmLikeaBoss]

Careful!... It can be addictive! :)

[@olgairizarry7750]

could you tell us more about a film needing more fixer, how it is look before, and it should look after refix, in fixer? thank

[@ShootFilmLikeaBoss]

If you pause the video the film looks milky. It should be clear.

[@olgairizarry7750]

Shoot Film Like a Boss could I put it back to fixer even if they are days old?

[@ShootFilmLikeaBoss]

Never tried that. I've always put it back in after the wash if it wasn't fixed fully

[@beaupfeifferrecordings]

nice framing gear buddy so dig your 120mm macro lens gets her pretty sharp that black stuff after the pre wash I think only comes with 120 film Ive seen matt day have the same thing happen to him every time I pre wash my 35mm film it always comes out clear I think its just 120 emulation thinking

[@ShootFilmLikeaBoss]

Yeah it's super sharp. It's not mine. It's a friend's.

[@beaupfeifferrecordings]

lol borrow it as long as u can

[@schadady]

awesome stuff u are doing i really like your videos........did u also print that panorama in the beginning of the video ?..........is there any way to stitch a panorama in the dark room ? if possible to make a video on that (it will be one of a kind video ;) )

[@ShootFilmLikeaBoss]

It's a digital print Shady..

[@schadady]

aah ok cool :D

[@blackwingvisuals5017]

Hi there! What's your developer of choice for finest grain with HP5? I have just been pleasantly surprised by Percepetol! Have used ilfasol 3 and ID11 in the past and Percepetol beats them hands down!! Not tried any other brands yet just Ilford; )..

[@ShootFilmLikeaBoss]

I like using XTOL. I've had good results with it.

[@blackwingvisuals5017]

Shoot Film Like a Boss Thanks I'll give it a whirl:)

[@ShootFilmLikeaBoss]

Blackwing Visuals I've a video on mixing it. it's a power form.

[@blackwingvisuals5017]

Shoot Film Like a Boss thank you I'll watch it.

[@b.brauner7500]

Hc-110 produces nice grain

[@Irnbruist]

leally nice but why havent you made the prints a bit larger?

[@ShootFilmLikeaBoss]

I originally replied thinking a different video... What size do you think I should have gone? These were 10x8.

[@Irnbruist]

I just think compared to the big picture frame they're just too small... but taste is different ;-)

[@ShootFilmLikeaBoss]

I've seen smaller prints in much bigger frames! All down to choice and home style.

[@larrywilliams5708]

I just recently discovered your channel and love it. I'm looking for a good used medium format camera and very much like the results your kit produced, would you mind sharing which 120 macro you used...beside being a Mamiya of coarse?

[@Voltarion_WWa]

That's really interesting. I always thought that HP5 and Rodinal pretty much don't like each other and result is quite ugly grain. I guess that in MF it is not as visible as it would be on 35mm film.

[@ShootFilmLikeaBoss]

And I pushed it too. Rodinal is great. Lasts for ages. I've had hardly any grain on 35mm also. It's highly diluted.

[@wingchun67]

what do you prewash the film with? Water?

[@ShootFilmLikeaBoss]

yes

[@malikshah3992]

Hi how do I get hold of the camera pictures 20x16 from yourself please

[@ShootFilmLikeaBoss]

I don't sell that big Malik

[@张俊伟-h8d]

where can i buy the frame paper it's one side is black the other is white?

[@ShootFilmLikeaBoss]

张俊伟 yes. It's just regular black mat board.

[@张俊伟-h8d]

i want to buy this,do you tell me how to buy?

[@ShootFilmLikeaBoss]

张俊伟 Any framing shop or Art shop or online. Look for Picture Mount Board. Usually 3mm thick.

[@EmilyGallagher]

Did you take a photo of the camera that you used in that shoot?

[@ShootFilmLikeaBoss]

Seriously? Lol

[@giannidigirolamo8868]

it is the anti halo of the film. It dissolves with water. Some films are reccomanded to be prewashed (Pancro 400 for example) because they have a ticker emulsion so in order to let the chemical to go deep it's important. I always prewash films too also when not required, but just for a minute in order to bring the tank and the film at the temperature of the chemicals.

[@ShootFilmLikeaBoss]

Nice one Gianni!

[@loskiff]

What kind of chemicals is used for the pre-washing?

[@ShootFilmLikeaBoss]

Just water at the same temp as the other chems.

[@giannidigirolamo8868]

loskiff water ;)

[@wullieg7269]

Wat if I face camo shoot b,w n then go negative....how would the eyes look?,thank!,gonna shoot that.

[@ShootFilmLikeaBoss]

Sorry mate, I'm not sure I understand your question.