Import Stitching Iron tune-up

While there's no arguing the value of top quality tools, sometimes we're on a budget. I gave these stitching irons a shot and with a little bit of work, found them to work quite well.
In regards to the better brands, Nigel Armitage has put together quite detailed reviews and data on a number of some of the top brands out there. His experience and knowledge far surpasses my own, definitely worth a look: / nordicbadger
The links below are to the two models I showed and discussed:
Aiskaer ®Stainless Steel 3mm 1/2/4/6 Prong DIY Diamond Lacing Stitching Chisel Set Leather Craft Kits (3mm) amzn.to/2sOB0js
Aiskaer White Steel 4mm 1/2/4/6 Prong DIY Diamond Lacing Stitching Chisel Set Leather Craft Kits (4mm) amzn.to/2u1QWhn
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[@InspiralJez]

Great video, thanks! Im new to leather working but im best tip is, never ever ever skip or fast forward a leather working video or you will pay and regret it later! Haha!

[@morbidmg]

Thank you! I was planning on cleaning up the set I have today and your video popped up on my feed. Perfect timing.

[@JBSwanstrom]

Awesome I have the same sets and being new to leather craft didn't know about this. Thank you!

[@dougmulle2627]

Thank you! I'm just starting out in leather and picked up a used one just to try using these things. Now I have a better idea of how to use and clean up some cheap ones

[@williamgrice4790]

Another tip to after you have polished it up, you can get a block of wax and "stab" your iron into it. It helps when pulling the irons back out. the wax will be in your stitch hole but when you either use the awl or straight needle, it will force it our or coat your awl or needle. thanks for your tip.

[@passerby107]

Excellent video, just what I was looking for. I bought a set just like the ones you have there and was at first pretty pissed at how difficult it was to get them out. I'm about to head down to the workshop and give them a tuneup just like you did. Thanks a ton for the demonstration and I'm looking forward to more projects. Cheers!

[@dreamwarriors979]

BEST PRICKING IRONS are from Sinabroks!!! Best tools ever I work whit! Or you want good chipper one buy the Rickert iron & you will have A LOT OF FUN

[@silverwiskers7371]

I've screwed up several projects trying 2 use an over stitched wheel from getting off line ill never use one again, i also bought some stitching Iran's from amazon trying 2 save a buck or 2 and they are not hardened and didn't last long, i ran across this video and watched it and done mine like yours and it worked out great,

[@friscokid66]

When you buy an expensive set much of what you’re paying for is the polished pricks. Rough pricks, especially the 8-10 prong ones on a thick veg tanned leather makes pulling very difficult. And if not not pulled from a straight angle, you can even severely damage the holes and their shapes. Great video, mate

[@clmnyng]

thank you very much, great bit of info

[@ar307]

Brilliant! Turned my irons from junk to completely usable!

[@3henry214]

Great video. Prior to polishing the tines on my chisels, I was using bee's wax on them to help facilitate their removal from thick leather. The bonus there was any traces of bee's wax that was deposited in the holes helped with passing stitching needles through them, so I'm going to continue to wax the chisels. For the money, I think the Aiskaer stitching chisels are a great value and the workmanship is better than most of the China made ones in the same price point. In my opinion, the packaging they came in (plastic case and drawstring pouch) also reflects a higher attention to detail by the manufacturer.

[@MountainFisher]

I use the inexpensive Diamond brand from Weaver Leather Supply they aren't 12 bux they are $22 each for the 5mm and 4mm sets. I find I only use the 3mm on thin leather as those points are close and I need to use 0.6mm thread, the 0.8mm thread is just a little bit to big especially when I do wallets. The reason people break the tines is because they try to punch through too thick of material for the spread, also use wax to remove, makes it a lot easier. I make knife sheaths and I don't try to punch thru 3/8th in. leather, I punch the welt separate and drill holes in it so the needle won't miss. My sewing by hand looks like a machine did it and that's because of stitching needles.

[@dutchpearson2022]

I have the same brand and did the same thing before running across this vid. And it really is way better doing this. And mine are used very hard. And not messed up at all

[@kensmapleleafretirement]

That's great. I have that exact set and it is a son of a gun to get them out. This video is going to make my life so much easier... Thank You... I push all the buttons.. Be Well...

[@johnbiggs7620]

thanks for sharing Trip. that's how I always buy tools look at it first and see if there is a way I can make it better

[@supernaut6660666]

Thanks for the info. I've used the 4mm set for a year now and your so right about how they grab the leather. I tried using wax which worked for the 1st 2 punches only. Then had to re-wax them. I've actually cut my hand twice trying to get them out of stacked leather projects. I have all the same Dremmel tools and will polish them up immediately. Cheers!

[@OTOBOB]

One of the other sets I didn't tune up was quite rough, I did grind/round off the handle end a bit initially...

[@MappingAmy]

thank you! just did this on some cheap 6mm prongs, they work much better now=)

[@Robert-xp4ii]

I did the same exact things with my set (same brand as yours) and it completely upgraded them. The only issue I have is with the 6 prong. I ran it through 2 layers of 5-6oz veg tan and it took like 6 hard whacks to get it to sink through both layers. I'm thinking I need to put a longer point on them and did already, although just a small bit.

[@shirleymalar2773]

Nice video. I'll be doing a tune-up on the ones I have. I may also pick up a set of these. Thanks for the info. Question: What grit of sanding discs did you use for grinding and polishing?

[@labrat7357]

Thanks for a top review, I got a lot from watching it. The best thing to do with the red rouge is to put it in the rubbish. The abrasive in red rouge is a low grade ferric (iron) oxide and it can get onto things you are working on and on metal can cause rust spots. The green chromium oxide based rouge from companies like Lee Valley tools is a good mix of cutting and polishing compounds and works on hardened steels. The name on these chisels is interesting as the Japanese refer to the hard steel used in tools as white or blue steel. Named after the colour of the tissue paper that Hitachi wrap the individual pieces of steel stock in for storage. Blue steel is several times more expensive than white steel. There is nothing wrong with white steel it is till a step above many tool steels.All the best.

[@OTOBOB]

I'm always torn on some things like that... do I go with what everyone has, or specialized things most folks wouldn't. I have over a hundred lbs of various compounds sitting on a shelf about 6 feet to the right of the bench, but everyone with a cheap Dremel set has those little sticks of red :) The red is really more for a buffing/final polishing, it's a very low cut typically, though each brand can vary by color (color isn't universal).

[@emmycon4514]

Class !! Thanks for the tip.

[@markolson7877]

Thanks...well done!!

[@MusicGodsNFT]

Great video. I have the same chisels and I think they are quite well made for the money. Cheers amigo!

[@HowlingWolfLeather]

I bought these and they are excellent. The holes are very small, too small for the needles I have, but all I do is use a diamond awl to open each one up slightly. :)

[@user-zt8jb5rz3q]

AlanSaysSo บ

[@timhallas4275]

Here is a tip from a mechanic. Don't pull straight up on the tool. Pull up while rocking it side. Also, if you dye your project before you prep it for stitching,, you can use a little bit of wax or leather finish to lubricate the tool.

[@timhallas4275]

PS, I made my pricking tools out of a steel fork.

[@tropicalhellesdongardenuk2991]

i have a cheap set and find them fab, i use the bone folder to hold the leather down while i pull the iron out, i dont find it a problem at all.

[@OTOBOB]

I've used a folder to help as well, with a good polishing though, I find I don't need it anymore.

[@crypto_pinto2660]

Thank you

[@qrubmeeaz]

I suspect they're cast, and then sharpened.

[@rfleecs]

Thanks for the video. Great tips on polishing! I'll be doing the same thing ASAP. Subscribed.

[@OTOBOB]

Thanks Ron! I'm working on some other 'tune up' videos soon.

[@ShinRaSabai]

Did the tips of your chisel really did not damaged from driving into the mat? I had a set of those, without any brand name, and the point of the tips gets a little bit flat even I tried to not puncture all the way through a piece of scrap leather laying under my work piece. Would using a mallet reduce the damage? Cause I am using a iron hammer to drive the chisel.

[@OTOBOB]

To one point, you should always use a mallet for striking metal tools, whether rawhide, wood, or plastic, a mallet won't deform the tool. I only use a metal hammer for a few key things, like setting rivets or snaps. That said, I've driven these clear through the leather, backing leather, and into the blue mat a number of times, even through that into the bench a few times. I wouldn't do either of those last two on a regular basis, but more for fear of snapping them than dulling them. I will say though, that of the couple of brands I've tried, there was a marked difference in quality, it's entirely possible yet another brand wasn't treated properly and was soft when you got it...

[@GainsGoblin]

Now I just have to do all of this by hand.

[@rashawncoward5505]

What's the best size to buy?mm?3,4,5,6?

[@V3leathercraft]

Depends on which thickness leather u use & what you do.... Thicker the leather, more spacing needed & vice versa...

[@NK-ng2vg]

5.50

[@yakurutosan5613]

thank you :)

[@neosklein1084]

take a litte bit of bee wax and they go easier in and out !

[@tropicalhellesdongardenuk2991]

a pricking iron also does a different job to a pricking chisel. chisels go right through, the pricking iron is only designed to make a awl mark for you

[@cheyennew811]

I just bought one from Tandy and I cannot get it to go through the leather. I am using a kitchen cutting board on my table to protect the table. Is there a technique for getting it through the leather?

[@OTOBOB]

There are a couple of different models from Tandy, I've only seen one of them in hand, but it was fairly rough. A clean-up and polishing would probably help them as well. A touch of beeswax probably wouldn't hurt either. I don't use a kitchen cutting board though, they're eventually fracture and can be a touch grabby. I always use some scrap leather under mine, as well as the cutting mat below that.

[@cheyennew811]

I'll give it a polish and some wax and see if that helps. Thanks for the reply!

[@tomanderson3007]

Try stabbing them into a bar of glycerine saddle soap instead of beeswax. The soap is more "slippery" and won't cause a possible issue with staining later on like beeswax sometimes will.