Improve RV Air Conditioner cooling & reduce power use for about $10 (huge RV needs list Below Video)

[@JOHNDANIEL1]

*↘* RV Air Conditioner options, bit.ly/2LfmT1G it can be installed through wall or in a former front/back window location & Copy this ebay.to/2Lj9TV8 to your bookmarks, and *In the Winter* get a NEW RV AC unit really cheap. I stock my RV with Cheap High quality survival Food Kits, bit.ly/2Qs0vGO (electronic banking fails = NO FOOD) but your RV is stocked! Another great option for RV's 2pc AC unit, amzn.to/2nJ9Nwx Pioneer WYS012-17 Air Conditioner Wall Mount Mini Split System Air Conditioner & Heat Pump all parts included Home, RV or Tiny House, 12,000 BTU and 22% less power needed. It heats too. Mount the outside unit on the tongue or rear bumper, can run on a 2000 watt generator all day long!!! Whole RV will run on this one bit.ly/2vIUKay SP4000 without problems. My repair on my RV Increases air flow almost 40% to remove the heat, increase cooling & efficiency. The HOLDPEAK Anemometer for testing air flow is this model, ebay.to/2vRb4FO its impressive at a low cost. Better Ideas and easy affordable ! B -Links to highly supported RV Sportsman Gasoline 4000 Watt Portable Generator.

[@DavidMosby]

Why did you list this with only a SEER of 17 when there are units with 23 SEER?

[@JOHNDANIEL1]

It's based on not only seasonal ratings, most with ratings above 15 SEER are a complete lie, or you could say a stretch, based on laboratory conditions, not real life. Pioneer ( Felicity Refrigeration Guangzhou China /Seoul SK ) has been known to use 5 natural categories in power use and efficiency. My concern is the start up amperage which was more important to the power abilities of a RV's wiring system.

[@CT9905.]

I followed your video and I noticed very little difference in the inside temperature of my thirty seven foot RV. The outside temperature was over one hundred degrees in San Antonio, TX.

[@Colaaah]

@@JOHNDANIEL1 use super capacitors to help with the high amp draw on those devices. I'm guessing you probably know this though...

[@CC-xs1hh]

Јоhn Daniel , that's a great idea, ..my unit is dripping condensation inside, the drain hole and everywhere was really clean, a freind told me it could be a little low on freon, does that sound right? (It's cooling good)

[@theoriginalfixitallgarage]

When I bought my new RV last year, I was disappointed with the performance of the A/C unit - ran all the time and barely kept up. Since then I followed this tutorial and made this modification exactly as shown. This summer I'm pleased to report that the A/C performance has improved dramatically. We camped for a week in 100 degree weather and were comfortable inside. I highly recommend this modification. Great job and thanks for taking the time to make this video.

[@lawrencepatricio5776]

I don't get it. Why do manufacturers sell you something that you have hack in order to work properly.

[@phazerboy]

I don't have this style A\C unit, but being an A\C technician I can say this guy knows what he is talking about. Whether you get 3F or 10F more temperature differential it's going to be an improvement and increase longevity of the unit as well.

[@bobcross8141]

I did this. It did improve the AC. I checked the amp draw before and after. There was an improvement. Thanks for the idea.

[@toddkern5945]

Thanks!

[@ChannelZeroOne]

I put a shield on top of mine. This is so the the sun is not in direct contact with the AC unit. It's basically a piece of sheet metal air gapped over the ac. The metal gets all the radiant heat from the sun. You are just cooling the hot air rather than the hot air and radiation absorbed into the body of the ac. The temp of the body panel on the ac is always well over 120 in the summer while its only 94 or so out. This all started when my ac could not cool my place down enough. Buying a new ac was out of the question since I was renting. I had some corrugated hurricane panels. I laid those over the AC unit and now my ac was able to cool the place down and actually shut off like it was supposed to. It made my bill drop a lot. My summer bills were over $300 before this. Now over or under $200. If my ac is not in the shade, I make sure its air gapped like this now.

[@JOHNDANIEL1]

A year later what I did made a massive cycle change, and in a summer this year of over 3 degrees on average higher for a month this seriously made a big change. No more freezing up, and I finally figured out why, theres ONE motor on the whole unit, the restriction was so prevalent it slowed it down allowing frosting on the inside a few times. Never happened again after the mod! And no more 75 inside on the worst Texas heat, now its worse point is 70 in 105 degrees mid day. So the fact you remove saturated heat without the fan buffering it on the shroud is amazing and common sense, To most, just not all!

[@danw1955]

Great video, and after working on automotive AC units for 20+ years, your theories make perfect sense. More airflow = lower temps = lower head pressure on system = more heat transfer & cooler air inside at the evaporator. Simple and effective fix... nice work John! Sent this link to some friends of mine that are actually out on the road right now with their rig.😉👍

[@JOHNDANIEL1]

A year later what I did made a massive cycle change, and in a summer this year of over 3 degrees on average higher for a month this seriously made a big change. No more freezing up, and I finally figured out why, theres ONE motor on the whole unit, the restriction was so prevalent it slowed it down allowing frosting on the inside a few times. Never happened again after the mod! And no more 75 inside on the worst Texas heat, now its worse point is 70 in 105 degrees mid day. So the fact you remove saturated heat without the fan buffering it on the shroud is amazing and common sense, To most, just not all!

[@dohara68]

Great idea! Cracks me up how some people can be so critical. This makes total sense and I will be doing this to both of my units this weekend. (along with a thorough cleaning) friends, if this doesn't work, (or only minimally) you've lost an hour of your life and $10. Thanks for taking the time to make this vid!

[@JOHNDANIEL1]

All the issues I was having with the AC unit have stopped, amazing what problems the makers created to produce a cosmetic appearance.

[@darrellwestphal4265]

To the people making comment. This is a technical video just to inform you of a better technique to ensure your air conditioning working at it top peak. I will never understand why some commenters feel I need to put down the video and the people making it? One person said it was drawn out as if he was getting bored. Some people get bored while watching documentaries and educational shows. But they get really excited when you put a cartoon on. While others was questioning the science and his technique which is there is absolutely nothing wrong with. The science is valid and the repair to increase airflow is a valid science what's your problem people? To those that made comments of encouragement and good ideas to add to the video thank you very much for being a decent human being. I guess some of these people really need to get out on their RV as quick as possible because it's starting to become calloused from too much City living. Just a thought. Y'all have a good day and try to be nicer. And John great video man keep up the good work. Who knows I might see you on the road someday.

[@byronmouton9527]

Darrel, on target, also cant understand why someone must be compelled to make negative comments on many of these videos. Clearly they must have an extreme superiority complex

[@jackhall4680]

I agree. To the spreaders of negativity: If the video bothers you, MAKE A BETTER ONE. And keep your negative comments to.yourself. The rest of us are LEARNING and we do not want you to discourage our EXCELLENT TEACHER. We want MORE VIDEOS from him, NOT LESS.

[@TexCynRVLife]

Good hack. My old Carrier a/c,which I really miss, did not have a back on the shroud. My Coleman does. However, keeping the a/c clean is key as well. We had so much dirt in the area due to road construction that my squirrel cage got clogged. I clean my ac twice yearly.

[@keith3025]

Thank you , for your video , it takes a man that sees a problem and has the knowledge to fix it, having bought a new 40 foot triple slide motor home , I returned to the factory authorized repair shop with ac problems , refrigerator issues and slide out problems ,and the dealers service reps will tell you this is how your unit should preform , however however that statement is not true , showing they have no incentive to do a warranty call against the manufacture , and more times than not requires us to find a solution to problems and repair it yourselves . So much THANKS to you for sharing with your knowledge !

[@GBuds_RVremodel]

My older coleman has an open back, I have modified the wood framing up inside the bottom to open up the space where air must flow(cut about 1" of the corner of the inside 2x4s to increase space. I also bored large holes on both sides and installed bigger filters to allow more air into return air space. The hoghair style plenum insulation around front of airbox can be swapped out for an extruded foam board and prevent heat exchanging issues. Putting some between motor and back of plenum is another spot for improvement...just dont block air circulation into motor vents.

[@daveems915]

This is good info...It is 105 in the shade here in Texas and my AC is purring like a kitten... I would like to add what I did to my Mach 3 coleman AC unit that made a night and day difference on my RV.... I stay out at the lake in the summer and live in my RV for 2 or 3 months out at the lake every summer, so I need my AC...I bought some regular o'l pipe foam insulation and put it on all the cold pipes between the Compressor and the condenser, covered the accumulator in 1/4 inch foam padding using 10" wire ties and glued the 1/4 inch foam pad onto the entire outside of my tin condenser box cover using spray adhesive. The water practically trickles out of the condenser now and the air is chill coming out of the AC vents. I also put a corrigated tin cover on a 2" X 2" wood frame with 2"X2"X2" wood spacers, over the AC unit. This creates a 3" air space over the AC unit and it is always in the shade , believe me when I tell you, it makes a big difference. Dont want to go into too much detail right now. Get some 1/4 X 20 4 inch long flat head bolts to screw it all back down... You can PM me for more info if you want.... Dave

[@JOHNDANIEL1]

I have added a draft hood like a hood scoop on the side to one for a woman's RV on her frustrated request and in it a 100 degree temp operated 260 cfm 12 volt bilge blower to boost case cooling then coated the outer case with foil paint. Results were amazing. It actually boosted the fan speed inside and outside by reducing the pressure load of the outer fan.

[@napollard]

Thank you for the video and information. I know some people were saying you took too long. You could have made it in half the time but there are some people need every turn of the screw driver to understand. Maybe, notating 4 or 5 spots like at 4:23 for the cut out, made up time, and 7:40 for the riveting would help solve that time thing for more advanced viewers. Me, I got to watch it all, know what I mean?

[@BrianCuda]

Thanks!

[@badactor3440]

I'm able to keep the temperature 30-35 degrees cooler inside my RV. I installed 2 misting nozzles at the condenser in order to cool the air entering the unit. This combined with some strategically placed mylar (windows and roof vents) works like a charm! 115 degrees outside....78 inside..

[@MissionaryForMexico]

This will also change the compreser pressure reading aswell!

[@TheMajictech]

It’ll work Until the minerals in the water clog up the condenser fins

[@MrStemkilla]

consider using pipe insolation on the coolant lines going into the RV i did it on my cars AC lines and noticed a huge difference.. although it did run above the exhaust manifold aswell

[@digger105337]

I think dometic figured that out. My 2010 flagstaff has no back frame or screen, its wide open. I put a 1"x1" wire gaurd on it for safety.FYI: They make that stuff in stainless steel too.Good job love your vids,no nonsense.

[@ToddShepard-hy6qe]

Very good idea creative and simple yet I bet it really helps I mean you got that hot air out. I'm gonna give it a try. on my R-Vision Trail- Lite. Thanks for sharing the idea.

[@dannyeugenewaits9486]

Great idea! Amazing how much restriction their was in the factory vent.

[@vernroach3413]

Nice tip...I'll bet this guy is fun to be around....I'm a junker too and love making modifications to improve performance...Now, where's my wife,s vibrator.....

[@marcgoldstone5419]

Great idea. I live in Bullhead City, AZ and like to "camp" in our front yard when home. I have installed buth the RV Air Flow and Soft Start units but even with this both of the Coleman Mach 10's compressor would cut off when the ambient temperature reached ~110 degrees. The compressor stays off until either the Circuit breaker is cycled off/on, or the thermostat is turned off then back on. I chose to use black vinyl coated 1/2" square welded wire fence material (Amazon) and rather than rivets, washers or custom fabricated brackets I just cut the fence material to fit inside the rear air intake and also the left side exhaust vents because improving air flow there helps to cool the compressor. I drilled two small 1/16" holes through the plastic shroud, one on each side of the welded wire then I twisted the wire to fasten the welded wire material to the inside of the shroud. Repeat this process every few inches as needed to secure the welded wire matrerial against the plastic shroud. Then I used a Dremel with an abrasive cutting wheel to cut the shroud's horizontal plastic rib, leaving several horizontal and all vertical ribs to maintain structural integrity. I will have to wait for 110+ degree days to know for sure but the reduced compressor vibration and lower compressor run current leads me to believe that this will allow cooling the RV even with ambient temperatures >115 degrees... of course with only two units at best the tinside temperasture will remain ~20 degrees cooler than outside temperatures. 95 degrees since there is virtually no humidity is tolerable but 115 or more with AC units that turn off isn't. In the event that there isn't enough improvement, I can still cut out more of the shroud's ribs...

[@Dannymurmaid]

Good to know this works. I was thinking about getting on with the dam there. I work at one up in WA state.. but kinda want the sun lol

[@oby-1607]

Some RVs have an aluminum or galvanized roof which is not painted. If you paint your roof white, it makes a dramatic difference in the heat soak that transfers to the interior of the RV. A lot of states have rebate programs for people who can paint their roof white to save air conditioner costs and load to the grid.

[@pulesjet]

Easy 5-10F difference . And less heat in the enclosure also extends the life of the other components in the A/C unit.

[@thomaslevy2119]

The Carrier Air V air conditioner (no longer made) on my 2003 5th wheel has no grill at all over its condenser coils. I actually had to install a steel mesh grill over it to protect it from being damaged by hail stones here in Colorado. The added grill made no noticeable difference it the AC cooling capacity. (Cleaning the coils once a year keeps it working well.)

[@ddd228]

Mine is exposed too. I just cleaned my filters!!!!!

[@fistpunder]

30 years in the HVAC and R business. He is correct! Less air flow equals less capacity! Also, Clean those coils! When they block up with dirt and it will hurt!

[@hotrodray6802]

Using Envirosafe (Pekin, IL) refrigerant ES12a Industrial refrigerant will lower the output cool air temperature 8-14* while reducing the load on the compressor. Price about $15 plus labor. EPA accepted and used world wide in refrigeration systems and automobiles. Ive been using it for decades.

[@ek9772]

Great solution. An alternative solution would be a heat exchanger coupled to the hot water tank. It is more expensive, but it will increase the efficiency as well.

[@DonKeyhole1]

You seemed distracted for a moment by the stress of the 4 legged inspectors looking over your work. You shouldn't worry, they appeared to approve of everything you were doing.

[@promiscuouscrab4040]

Reduce restriction, eliminate leaks. I caulk and foam tape to seal any leaks where the sheet metal surrounds the evaporator & condenser. Just take a flashlight and shine it around to see tiny gaps, or just feel around to detect where air is getting around the radiator coils. Also clean it at least once a year for better air flow.

[@GosselinFarmsEdGosselin]

As a farmer and a mechanic/metal fabricator,I have to say, most things are poorly engineered!!! I do love how you have shown how the air flow is disrupted/diminished... I do see one issue with the way you set the fan up. When you had the fan pointed to the plastic vent, the backside of the fan was unrestricted. When you turned the fan to show the unrestricted air speed, the fan was situated poorly, restricting the air into the fan. 4.2mph restricted at the front... 7.1mph restricted from the back... I'm guessing the 7.1mph would be more like 8 to 9mph or more if unrestricted for the back. Thank you for a great video!!! Thinking I'm going to have to fix my AC up too!!! I have noticed when servicing, airflow isn't much... I'm guessing your fix probably makes the unit run quieter too...

[@martingriego6800]

Thats a great upgrade, these ac units need all the help they need, its hot out there

[@JOHNDANIEL1]

Doing a video soon showing how to mount a $140 5000 btu AC on the roof of a RV with some fancy sheet metal work for sending cool down into the rig and return air back.

[@ToyMarston]

Using induction heat source on compressor free absorption refrigerator also works well

[@yogibeer9319]

Dude, great idea! Gonna do that. These AC manufacturers don’t want us to keep our units working, it’s not good for their bottom line. Thanks!

[@jackw3235]

I like watching KZbin videos with tips and tricks work and makes sense on a mechanical level

[@thomascurrier437]

I modified both ac units on my 36 ft Tiffin Alegro Bay and it worked great for both of them. One unit is 17 years old and the smaller one is new. The other improvement I noticed is a significant reduction in ac noise. It would be interesting to measure dB before and after.

[@olhesty2196]

Oh I am definitely doing that

[@harleycleanslate]

if you want to know if this works for your own RV, run the a/c on a really hot day and see how effective it is. Then go up on the roof and take the cover/cap/shell off(opening up the airflow) and go back inside and see if there is improvement. If there is, do the mod, if not, put the cover back on and forget about it.

[@aldercamper9430]

Not a lot of people can objectively tell the difference... It's can be feeling colder/hotter, but to few people can accurately measure temperature, make some graphs, measure current draw, temperature difference (inside / outside / before / after), solar insolation e.t.c...

[@theunconventionaldeal3879]

I did the same mod months ago on a perfectly working unit, temps dropped 2 degrees on the output.

[@JOHNDANIEL1]

@@theunconventionaldeal3879 A year later what I did made a massive cycle change, and in a summer this year of over 3 degrees on average higher for a month this seriously made a big change. No more freezing up, and I finally figured out why, theres ONE motor on the whole unit, the restriction was so prevalent it slowed it down allowing frosting on the inside a few times. Never happened again after the mod! And no more 75 inside on the worst Texas heat, now its worse point is 70 in 105 degrees mid day. So the fact you remove saturated heat without the fan buffering it on the shroud is amazing and common sense, To most, just not all!

[@theunconventionaldeal3879]

@@JOHNDANIEL1 mines not 100% effective but it works better until I replace it, without covering windows it's 82 and 105 outside so good till I get a new one.

[@moodberry]

@@JOHNDANIEL1 SO you are saying that it was 75 when it was 105 outside, and this gave you a 5 degree improvement? That's great! My unit is a heat pump, so I expect that in the winter, it would also heat better

[@TSYRR350]

John, I've watched and read so much BS, all of which never truly provided even one plausible answer until now. The moment I did your suggested hack, the temp gauge I have stuck in the fins went from 83 down to 57.2 in under 7 minutes. Brother, you my friend are worth your weight in Silver and Gold! Incredible! Thank you, Tommy

[@terriecotham1567]

Thanks for posting when you can improve the airflow that much, that ease, that cheap its a win/win Love how you took the time and use the meter to show before and after. well done

[@FBPrepping]

Yes you are right. Showing evidence is great for these kind of videos.

[@brianstoering9912]

I did a similar thing too my cooler. The cover was cracked all over, used trailer, I installed industrial screening, as in for Windows on military vehicles, much tougher and easier too work with. Also much cheaper, only spent $3 for 100 foot roll. But you have too get the special cutter since this stuff can almost absorb a bullet. Did this before I even used the unit. Unit says it is 25amp at 120volts, but it runs full power with only 11-12 amp draw. I love it, and this is a great idea....

[@dj-rm7bz]

Brian Stoering where did you get the industrial screen you mentioned in your comment about the RV a/c mod?

[@billcawthorne3114]

Aircraft air cooled engines also use a baffle seal between the cowling and cylinders. That keeps the air from recirculating within the engine compartment. Great tip. Wish I had thought of it!

[@colingee6687]

Keep in mind that the aluminum strip that is riveted behind the shroud will expand and contract with extreme temperature swings will also add stress onto the rivets to push against the plastic. One way to solve this problem is to elongate the holes in the aluminum strip.

[@NackDSP]

Plastic expands and contracts with temperature much more than aluminum, but your point is valid. When there is a difference in temperature expansion coefficients of two materials, there will be stress on the fasteners.

[@johnnybravobandit]

@@NackDSP it's rivets. They'll be fine.

[@GBuds_RVremodel]

As an aviation fabricator, your over thinking this. It's true but there's not enough to make any difference, unless it's about 30,000ft

[@puroarl1]

Great info. Will be full-timing it, starting at the end of this month. In the Phoenix area. This idea couldn't have come at a better time for us. Thanks.

[@markgrimm3564]

good tip john i've been in the hvac field for 20 yrs. that condenser has to give up heat less restriction is always a +

[@Heliarc91]

I cut both of mine out on my Coleman Mach3 It is the type that sucks instead of blows through the rear. But did it anyway sure it will help with flow. Also cut a few sections out of the sides so it can breathe with more flow coming in

[@bobbeaver7825]

Best way to really see any improvement is to read the high pressure side with gauges and perform this mod and if your pressures drop you’ve successfully improved your airflow if not don’t waste your time. From a knowledgeable ac technician here.

[@Bryan-Hensley]

If you are a knowledgeable HVAC guy, you'd know these units don't have Schrader Valves.

[@singlespeedman]

I think you could use a laser thermometer and shoot the high pressure line before and after.

[@happyseany]

You mean an infrared thermometer?

[@05puzio]

K type clamp thermometer would probably be more accurate. Also taking an amp. Reading is going to tell you more. I would be more concerned about increasing/lowering the subcooling or superheat. Possibly causing compressor flooding.

[@zanez9608]

The airflow probably doesn't effect it as much as somebody removing the drain plug if this model had a slinger ring on the condenser fan

[@BubbaWarbucks]

What a simple hack! I'm not even sure you need the metal edging if you just put some washers on the inside of the rivets over the metal screen. As far as the wasps go, that metal grill has to be more effective than the big open slots in the stock cover, lol. Great episode.

[@scottspencer8358]

Bubba Warbucks The metal transition strips will help aid in rigidity making it even stronger than orignal design.

[@MeanderingMarty]

Why didn't I think of this!!!! You know that I will be ripping mine off and doing this. I also might try a water mister to try and make it shed even more heat.

[@davesrvchannel4717]

You just made the engineers at Dometic look like fools. Very good work!! I will be giving you a shout-out on my channel next time I mention A/C units.

[@JOHNDANIEL1]

After doing the video yesterday, today we peaked out at 102, temp inside was under 68 all day. Obvious issue solved. I am living in it next to my house while doing a major remodel. Glad I figured it out.

[@geraldhenrickson7472]

Not really. I am sure the engineers at Dometic determined just how much airflow is needed. This test means nothing. Just keep your a/c clean and move on.

[@DuffyF56]

Increased airflow increases the heat transfer. Simple thermodynamics.

[@whataboutbob9786]

Domestic saving money, manufacturing plastic cap. RV owner saving money with modification. Actual good tip/mod.

[@Colaaah]

@@geraldhenrickson7472 yeah they worked out how you need to change your a/c unit for a new one sooner from running so hot and burning out earlier then it should, but long enough after the warranty finishes...

[@benkanobe7500]

Very nice work. The older Dometic units as Mr. Hyatt points out a few comments later were a three-sided box with nothing in the back but the heat transfer fins. Mamy home condensers have very little protection so the fins can be exposed and not have any restrictions. I suspect the "Designers" at Dometic had more influence than the design engineers and so the change. Anyway, great work and a tremendous improvement to anyone with four-sided box.

[@waltdurling1137]

John Daniel. A good idea! Anyone with even a modicum of common sense would know that the better, more efficient air flow past the cooling coil, the more efficient the unit. I would also replace the vent in front of the air inflow for this very reason.

[@JOHNDANIEL1]

Sad to say, but theres a lot of folks completely devoid of common sense and logic. But for me, the AC now runs less, and cools faster so I win even past the devoid pessimist. Who would have thought - Runs less = using less power!

[@uk7769]

hell that even looks better to me. Plenty of different styles of screen and mesh you could use to do this. Great idea!

[@19723020]

Roof air from a camper will cool your shop Way better than a window unit. I learned that the hard way! Giing back to roof air 👍 check out red dot has redesigned and reintroduced their roof air for semi trucks. It expells the heat up top away from your cab, and doesn't put more heat in front of your radiator and intercooler.

[@chocolatewithedgarcia1012]

A lot easier, cheaper, and reduces weight, if you take a small drill bit, perhaps 1/8 inch, and drill about 50 or 100 small holes into the slotted area of the case, to increase the open area. Even just a few tiny holes in those vertical pieces will greatly reduce their resistance to air flow.

[@LTDan-pk3mx]

Awesome John!! Thanks I am going to work on our 46 ft Jayco Toy hauler 3 units!!

[@JOHNDANIEL1]

Sounds great! , Keep a spotter and don't fall off that nice rig!

[@yellowdemon16vt74]

I'm going to do this to my rv

[@gregoryherbig5727]

Thanks, it would be interesting to see the difference between the airflow flowing out versus blowing in, added smoke would show the turbulence that you talk about. Your comments about the shape of molding is right on, laminar air flow can be very important as the designs from golf balls to aircraft and with the AC unit like you are talking about.

[@ericdye5970]

Nice upgrade, cheap and effective

[@MeadowCreekFarmLife]

Great hack! We plan to make this modification next weekend. Thanks for sharing!

[@mick5740]

Very neat. My AC on my 87 nomad stop working today ! Heat wave here In MT. Looking up videos and your popped up. I think it’s the capacitor!? It sounds like it wants to start but doesn’t kick in gear and fan don’t start It’s a 87 probably all original. I pulled the top off and all old stuff. I guess I’m going for a new capacitor. But this video is also interesting because my AC cap wore out a year or so ago so I just run it without one as they are $100 for a piece O plastic and I figured what is the point if I’m not traveling on the highway. I usually put a piece of plywood on top to shield it from the sun but I had thought about that plastic cap trapping g heat before .

[@jlg8689]

When i replaced my a/c unit i did notice and feel like these covers were so restricted, i will be doing this to my unit now, thanks for the vid!!

[@JOHNDANIEL1]

The best part is your unit will run less as it cycles and thats how you use less power. More heat removed means more cool made in a shorter compressor on cycle.

[@NackDSP]

Beautiful engineering complete with valid measurements. When I get brave enough to get on the roof, I will do this. My stupid A C cover is black. I can't imagine why anyone would want a black cover. In the sun a black cover absorbs about 700 Watts of heat that the AC just has to deal with. Some of this stuff isn't designed, just built and sold, never tested. The RV industry is really pretty pathetic. Paint that roof white and save some heat absorption.

[@deepthinker1918]

Sarasota Tim needs this.

[@JayRays1truck]

Nice trick here! One thing I would do different is put some trim on the outside also and make it look better.

[@markgrimm3564]

look at the window shacker in you house has the exact same expanded metal for the grill on the back

[@kriswright1022]

New subscriber, great content with a lot of common sense solutions to a wide range of everyday problems. Im a fixit guy myself, so i love yer style! 👍 And you're right, I can fix it myself, it aint that hard!! ❤😊

[@jimmydeen58]

Great Video.. I’m gonna do that to my Dometic AC unit on my class A motorhome..thanks for the video..

[@JOHNDANIEL1]

Stay tuned because we have 20 of these 100 watt panels ebay.to/2KIw4E9 to put on this big Jayco

[@themaximusone]

I simply made a new shroud the fan that is on the AC unit is more than enough to do the job better to buy a conversion kit and if you can not build a shroud the alter it so it is more open 😊

[@gregmislick1117]

My factory Dometic on a 2017 Trailer actually shut it self off after running for a few hours in direct sunlight... this mod is high on my list.

[@TheKp636]

Cute video. Makes sense with restriction through the plastic grille vs. the expanded metal, however.... The only way to tell if this helps is by checking subcooling.

[@JOHNDANIEL1]

The shroud is common style now, for proof, see new models, amzn.to/2w8SFoX its all about the cosmetic, not the function. The RV appliance industry hired hundreds of designers in the last 10 years, not engineers. Now you know why the old RV AC and Fridge that lasted 30 years is now a thing of the past.

[@Elfnetdesigns]

I built a mister for the condenser out of a Kurieg coffee machine. it actually work better than anticipated. in the middle of the day the overall RV amp load is about 19 amps with the A/C running. with the mister my overall amp laod is 12 amps and thats with the A/C, fridge TV, Computer and other stuff plugged in.. A little water makes a huge differance especially if you are living in an RV at a park full time, Your power bill will drop.. If you are on a generator then it will not have to work as hard.. Also you need to have an HVAC tech check the charge on your unit if it's freezing up but first clean the coils up to be sure..

[@JOHNDANIEL1]

Coils were clean, thats why I got so aggravated about it not improving. So this was my result. Over a year later the cover has seen 8,000 miles, hail, blizzards and a impact from a hawk with no issues. results have been better than the $120 cleaning for under $10~

[@Elfnetdesigns]

@@JOHNDANIEL1$120 cleaning? You know you can buy the coil cleaner online or at a parts house and DIY this and save your wallet the pain. I have the pink cleaner I bought locally from the appliance parts house and use a pump up sprayer to distribute the cleaner onto the coils, it foams up and pushes the dirt and crap out and you hose it off and done.. Also it's not a bad idea to check and oil the fan motor each year too especially if you store the RV during off season.. Fan motors are the second most common thing to fail on these units, the first is either the run or start caps which are very cheap to replace also.. Just trying to help you guys save some $$

[@19723020]

This is a Great idea! The next step up is to put a misting nozzle between the fan and evaporator. Like WRX STI had misting the intercooler.

[@scottspencer8358]

You should also do that on the sides to increase incoming air flow as well .By doing all of them you will transfer air at a better rate and lower you amp draw even more...It even looks better !

[@buzzardridge6980]

I've had 4 rv's with 5 roof units and they all pulled cool air in from the rear and blowed the hot air out the sides.

[@JOHNDANIEL1]

Amazing, I own a RV salvage yard, over 80 RV's processed through here since 2006 and not one AC unit we pulled, from a 1963 Intertherm 8800 to a 2015 Dometic has ever or without any malfunction does that backwards air flow. Not even a Window air conditioner sucks in through the face and put out on the sides. That function would over heat everything in and under the case/shroud. You should send those in for a case study and buy a lottery ticket the same day!

[@noHandle1776]

TIM Harrison yea all the ACs I have worked on (only like 5) do pull from the sides and blow out the back typically the fan is in front blowing thru the condenser

[@400redrider]

@@JOHNDANIEL1 so you must not have had one Coleman Mach ac come through. Because all of them pull air from rear and push out sides and do so without overheating everything under the shroud.

[@ifyoudisagreeyouarewrong]

@@400redrider Wrong. I have a Coleman Mach 3 TSR and it doesn't do that. I bet you can't find any schematics of an AC that does ;-)

[@scottback3020]

I believe this mod to work as suggested. Only thing I wish he would of showed us was the air speed out of unit with the unmodified shroud still on.

[@kipdon]

I thought he did in the beginning of the video...? He was just simulating it inside the shop with a house fan. also at the end of the video I believe he did again Up on the roof when he was about to put the modded cover on.

[@danikael2815]

Thank you for this diy project anyblittle bit counts in a rv and sonce i was doing the back side of it i said screw it might as well do the sides too that way its optimal efficiency and so it doest have free flow in the exhasut and restricted in the intake

[@MissionaryForMexico]

Outstanding video going to perform same upgrade to my RV air-conditioning!

[@acdii]

Just added another thing to my list. I have a brand new RV with 2 15K AC units, and both combined barely keep up. I already inspected the plenums on both and found the front AC was partially blocked on both ducts and corrected it, so now going to check the covers and open them up if needed. This mod makes perfect sense because the whole idea of the large dehumidifier is to pull the heat away. Just the act of compressing the gas into liquid raises the refrigerant to 120*, and in order to change into liquid, you need to remove the heat, otherwise you just have hot highly compressed gas. It needs to be liquid when it hits the expansion valve, because changing from liquid to gas is what drops the temp across the evaporator, so hot gas entering the expansion valve doesn't cool down anywhere near as much as liquid does. Great tip on the cover mod, never would have considered it an issue.

[@Heliarc91]

Does yours have ducts running through roof? On mine, I have round twist adjusters for ac. I removed it. So it's a hole with upper plastic. Don't know if you have those types. But man it let's way more air in the center portion. I usually have had to supplement acs last year I got 2 portable acs along with 2 ac roof units. Talk about stressing breaker... trying to get mine working efficiently so I can get away with only 1. Or none

[@perrykee6800]

BTW acdii; RV AC units do not use TXVs. Although, your point is correct about the refrigerate being 100% back to the liquid phase in order to provide cooling!

[@patmasters3184]

Love it doing it next week , looking forward to more of your video's !

[@blakjakroc]

Thanks for the video. I appreciate the time to explain everything and the hassle of handling the camera while being very descriptive about it also.👍👍

[@johnsartori9685]

I use a Rockwell to cut frp. Makes a nice smooth controlled cut.

[@johnkoelliker4381]

Great hack!!! Looking forward to your Peltier video. I'm looking into some kind of similar cooling for a camper box I'm building for the back of my truck, a 4'X4'X8' insulated box to sleep in.

[@JOHNDANIEL1]

Video coming soon, just got to finish a few things and parts to find. 4 years ago in Texas summer heat I used 2 of these in a tiny pick up bed sleeper cab 36x40x84" with 360 watts solar for 3 weeks. I worked nights, slept days in the Texas oil fields until I got my preferred RV space, worked perfect. Kept it under 68 degrees all day, just could not put them in the sun, mounted them under covers to block sun, used a 120mm fan to circulate everywhere.

[@johnkoelliker4381]

Awesome!!! Looking forward to your vid.

[@123klaas]

What a great life hack, thank you testing with the air speed meter! Did you measure the amperage and the air temperature on the inside before and after?

[@crispyspa]

Excellent video! I have been having troubles with my air conditioner on my Outback camper I think I will do this hack. Just a little side note, a little editing Would Have Made It a lot better... Cut out some of the fluff. 😁 I get the same comment on some of my videos. LOL. I tend to ramble on and on and on. 🤣 But hey, these are our channels and we will do what we see fit. Again, very good information.

[@JOHNDANIEL1]

After my getting burned trying to get a kid out of a burning RV I ended up with a infection that led to a stroke, so I let my 11 year old do the editing, Ooops. Kick boxing for half my life made me feel invincible, jumping into a burning Rv sorta put a end to that.

[@jackhall4680]

You go John! Much respect to you for being a genuine hero. Very sorry that the price was so high.

[@obadiahscave]

Common sense will blow the minds of the educated, every TIME .... well done...

[@JOHNDANIEL1]

Yeah, seems Propheshunnals get ass tweaked over my not doing impossible mother nature related mathematics in a already long video.

[@georgefenrich8942]

Where is the video that you talk about at 13:00 ?

[@MrJrusselltx]

Very interesting, especially since my A/C does NOT keep up with Texas heat. Just one thing, I wish you had taken the airflow measurements with the original cover on the A/C. It would have been much more convincing. The cover and other components will have a drastic effect on the actual air flow. I may take those if I decide to use your idea for a better comparison of its effectiveness.

[@Heliarc91]

Hi Jim. I'm also in texas. What I did that helped alot, if your units are old ( even 3 to 5 yrs) is lay lots of plastic down under acs. Stuff towels into ac holes with inside cover off. Remove all covers outside and airbox. Sprayed cleaner in both coils, and water jetted them out with water hose. Let towels catch and drip into plastic. (Bowl the plastic a little) Will revive basically 100% of your cfm and lower head pressure. Just spraying with water hose on outside coil helps...but really cleaning them makes a big difference. Compressor runs cooler and starts even smoother. Mine are 2005 coleman mach 3s with r22 I also used the comb that came with cleaner to straighten all fins. Next I may hire a pro to top off the r22 if it needs it. I assume after 17 yrs prob does

[@noelwilson9797]

Saw it ....did it......WOW!!! THANK YOU!!!

[@CoolMusicToMyEars]

Hi, I have also seen people to use water mist spray to cool down the heat exchanger !, Impressive air change having wire mesh :)

[@Ghost-vf2li]

Is using the condesate an option?

[@DannyWalker1949]

At first I thought you was gonna show us those "Easy Starter's" systems when they start up the AC's. I Like mine. I have 2 of them. 1 on a 5,000 and 1 on a 12,000 AC units. I like your idea too. I just might though them on my Bug-Out trailer too.

[@JOHNDANIEL1]

Wire a Surge Suppressor for a 1500 watt microwave inlne at the breaker box on out going to the AC outlet, does same damn thing for $40

[@choimdachoim9491]

@@JOHNDANIEL1 $23 at Amazon: Micromatic WS-2910 Electronic Surge Protector for Microwave Oven. I was ready to buy one of those $300 units for my RV. WOW!!!

[@FendergtrJam]

Great tip and if you do all three sides it will keep out the little green frogs 😈👍👊

[@Znobyrd]

Good work. Keeping that a/c coil clean is a big plus too.

[@kingtut5923]

We just bought a trailer in Yuma , will be doing this soon. Thanks

[@rvninnorthcarolina3377]

I recall that the older units...like the Dou-Therm on my old Winnie did not have backs on the shrouds at all...wide open...from the factory. I think it was the same on my 94 Fleetwood with a Colman. Not sure when the fully enclosed units came to be. I have an enclosed one on my new TT but the AC seems to keep up.

[@done1012]

Router with laminating bit would make a good cut. Better cut with router guide. Thanks for the insightful knowledge.

[@JOHNDANIEL1]

Making my next one from Aluminum like the one I put on my old Holiday Rambler in 2011. Top panel, front panel, partial sides and the rest 1/8" hole expanded aluminum mesh. Its a quick simple design, weighs much less, stops all damage and cools better.

[@done1012]

@@JOHNDANIEL1 wouldn't have never thought of this until today. Perfect sense and so easy to overlook and fix. Thanks for sharing

[@shroudedunity]

Damn! This is awesome. Did a quick browse on your other videos. Love it! New sub my friend

[@cfh4201969]

Sweet. Simple and effective. And you sound like Ted Nugent! Win win!

[@marvinmartion1178]

A hint, I've been using a diamond blade in my angle grinder for years to cut vinyl siding. It works great! Never clogs.

[@gpowerdragon9852]

yeah the plastic grid is not efficient good find now some delicious modifications done :-)

[@ElementofKindness]

Never could understand why they started molding the shroud over the back side. Older units were always wide open.

[@JOHNDANIEL1]

They call it California Cosmetics. Never intended to function, just waste power and look good!

[@throttlebottle5906]

to sell you a new unit when it burns out quicker :0

[@dwightsmith5174]

It's for hail protection! Manufacturers aren't always stupid. Literally hundreds if not thousands of AC coils are damaged during hailstorms if there is no protection. I've straightened up (combed) so many AC coil fins my fingers still hurt!

[@scottallison9887]

Yes,mine is an 87'.

[@padraicley3265]

The old Dometic Brisk Air AC has no cover at the back. The hail can ding it up.