Did you replace the vacuum tube? The Governor would allow it to race up, and be hard to control the RPMs.

You are welcome!

Hi Phil, I will be my own self always.

Your AC unit will be on a single non shared breaker. Pull the 3 wires from it, run them over to install a 120 volt Inlet amzn.to/3WGmng7 into the side of your RV and then using a 12 gauge cord connect to the RV post extra outlet. Be sure to seal well, and make sure to cut the hole in a good spot with plenty clearance. A cheaper way is to add a male end on those wires but you want no high amp failures in or under cabinets.

Depends on your total plans. If your plan is 50% or more of your power made by you, then yes. If it's less than that then stay 12 volt so you can easily apply 12 volt powered items like lights, cooking and RV related parts. I choose hybrid so I can use 36 volt for faster charging off a wind turbine or generator if needed. My main system is all 12 volt but its in the many thousand amps distributed and balanced with Lead Acid for bulk draw hits connected directly to LiFePO4 for voltage support.

It would be excellent for that. Be sure to add 3 or more of the batteries I put down in the links so you can run it lots of hours.

60% more ability than a $4000 power station without the snooping WIFi and Bluetooth stuff that can control you when least expected. My China friends tell me DO NOT leave the Blue Tooth or WiFi card connected in anything you own. That China Military has all the inert coding firmware and no matter what you do, they can still bypass you. That is why Kiera demanded her cart be this way. 78% of the entire USA can be popped and dropped from China via our own idiocy! And to top it off, since Obama this has been their capability when that favored nation thing he passed was implemented. That info is direct from China manufactures, not USA deep state gov folks who have been on the China payroll since 2009.

For 36 and 72 volt 40 amp and 150 amp cont

@@simonroese2596 Ask away.

@@JOHNDANIEL1 looking to get a 36 and 72 volt bms and been doing as much research as I can. Do you still sell bms or work in the sector? I would like to grab some

Yes I have, and we have a second new one we got with points and credits. I will open it on video. Did blow $222 spent on the newest one a 2400w amzn.to/3WMoY9V but tons of honey credits and $190 Amazon card. It's a little bigger. The original is taking in DC power all day, running 2 of our 9 cubic foot freezers permanent. No faults, no fails, and excellent voltage. We ran a HF 100 amp mig on it, and welded using full mig power without issue.

​@@JOHNDANIEL1 Thanks. Can't wait for the open up video you do on this one. Hope also to see a video on the new 2400w one as well. I need to check out that Honey thing. Thanks!

We stay with the safer voltages, 40 and less and also not requiring higher volts from solar panels in series we get rid of 99% of the chance of fire. We do have 36 volt and 12 volt in our systems. Using Stions on the 36 volt ( 70 volt low amp CIGS Amorphous SOLAR that are fire proof ) and the other 90% is 12 volt. A near 100% of solar panel wiring and fires are due to running them in series. I can show that in a future video. But watch this, kzbin.info/www/bejne/iIGVeod4m6l1mLcsi=gWo18eR39Jxn8AfR to understand IT IS NOT SAFE! The uploader of that video shows the effect, yet fails 100% to connect what I have seen in over 200 installs. Its the failing cell in one panel that is wired in series for higher volts that is heated up in a series wiring and goes up in flames. If you wire ONLY parallel then this can not happen at all. A bad cell, buss bar, diode just stops that panels output. Nothing flows through the damage. As China quality drops, fires rise.

We stay with the safer voltages, 40 and less and also not requiring higher volts from solar panels in series we get rid of 99% of the chance of fire. We do have 36 volt and 12 volt in our systems. Using Stions on the 36 volt ( 70 volt low amp CIGS Amorphous SOLAR that are fire proof ) and the other 90% is 12 volt. A near 100% of solar panel wiring and fires are due to running them in series. I can show that in a future video. But watch this, kzbin.info/www/bejne/iIGVeod4m6l1mLcsi=gWo18eR39Jxn8AfR to understand IT IS NOT SAFE! The uploader of that video shows the effect, yet fails 100% to connect what I have seen in over 200 installs. Its the failing cell in one panel that is wired in series for higher volts that is heated up in a series wiring and goes up in flames. If you wire ONLY parallel then this can not happen at all. A bad cell, buss bar, diode just stops that panels output. Nothing flows through the damage. As China quality drops, fires rise.

Your RUN DELAY RELAY is fused and hung up. Rare possibility is the cool down bi-metal click disc is doing it, but that is real rare. Run Delay relay can be replaced with the ones made by White Rogers/Emmerson that I list below the video.