In car service of Timing Chain on the Ford 4.6L Modular V8 - Part 1 of 2

Dealership training from Ford about the in car replacement of the timing chains.
Content of video will probably apply to the Mustang as well.
NOTE: There was a mistake made during production (paper inside case) about the timing chain guide in the later part of the video! Use common sense during replacement and finding out why wear occured.

[@Onry1]

I love how these engines are in pristine condition. No grease, no rusted/broken on bolts. Must be nice...

[@charlesdahmital8095]

5:10 I like the way he just drops in with 'Remove and clean the oil pan and the oil pick up screen' That book time is only an extra 8 hours!

[@j.t.cooper2963]

Ya, no shit.

[@eegg6954]

Probably why no one does it.

[@scales57]

Now, point your revolver to your right side temple, placing your index finger on the trigger, squeeze to specification.

[@bryantb3391]

Lol im going to be doing one here in not too long not looking forward to it 😨

[@scales57]

@@bryantb3391 I have 214K on my Grand Marquis....still running well on the original timing chain (regular oil changes?)...I'd love to tackle this, too.....but between the special tools, and the intricacies I'm not sure it is wise to try. If I could find another video on it that was good, I might give it a shot.....keeping the engine from rotating (even with the special tool) scares the heck out of me! let me know if you do it and how you make out.

[@bryantb3391]

@@scales57 going to use vise grips on the cams but otherwise its just a bunch of work

[@scales57]

@@bryantb3391 Amen, to that!!!

[@Mak08Mak]

Wow! It seems to me that is easier to perform open heart surgery on a person. That makes me appreciate my mechanic lots more!

[@solexxx8588]

It's just a crap design. If you don't do this after 200K miles your motor eats itself. My pan was full of plastic chunks from the failed guided. Kinda looks like they designed it this way on purpose.

[@austin12089]

Be a nice job when it's 25years old and every bolt is seized and rounds off!!!

[@TheDustysix]

He forgot removing the spare tire.

[@jamesmcknight4146]

LOL

[@kevinlee9751]

Right!

[@greenscobie86]

Excellent! Please post more 4.6 stuff like this!!!

[@johnecker4217]

This is nonsense! Remove windshield wipers?WTF?If you're doing all of this to get to the timing chain, You replace everything else too!

[@JoeSpivey2]

@OutdoorEnt make sure that you installed the gears in the right direction because if you put any of them in backward then when you tighten the crank pulley then the crank will not move. If you made sure that the passenger side camshaft did not move before you removed the chain then you should be ok. if you did not hold the cam before you took off the chain then you probably bent the valves when you took off the tensioner.

[@ihartmacz]

I have two more videos on the 4.6. One is for engine removal from the Lincoln see in this video and the other is main bearing removal. If you like I can post these, but it might be a couple of weeks.

[@JoeSpivey2]

@macus1305 The chain guides are just made to make sure that the chain does not catch anything when it is slack and if it were made of metal there would be lots of metal shavings in the oilpan and bearings.

[@chrishansen1293]

Every time he says remove, take a shot.

[@scdevon]

The physical size of these engines and the parts count on them is ridiculous for the amount of HP they (don't) make.

[@deeremeyer1749]

Don't mention the shitty residual "value", that they're pretty much throwaway engines that can only be rebuilt if they somehow end up failing without significantly damaging the cylinder walls and the fact that they were supposed to be Ford's "world beater" replacement for its small-block AND big-block engines and were going to make all cam-in-block engines obsolete. Ford never got around to explaining why it has built 3 consecutive cam-in-block diesels that have been "modular" mainly in that they're colossal clusterfucks and have been progressively more prone to catastrophic, nothing left but scrap metal failures, but otherwise are "obsolete" according to Ford's GAS ENGINE "doctrine". What's really funny is how brainwashed and ignorant Ford fanboys are when they claim GM is "way behind" Ford. Clearly they have no freaking clue that DOHC engines were around for 20+ years prior to Ford finally copying the idea and that as usual, DIESEL engines were the first to use DOHC 4-valve technology. Caterpillar 343/1693 heavy-duty diesels have dual overhead cams and 4 valves per cylinder and they came along in the mid 1970s. And of course GM built OHC 2-stroke EMD modular diesels beginning in the 1930s or 1940s. They still power all EMD diesel-electric locomotives. And Pontiac had an SOHC 6-cylinder in some Firebirds, there was the Quad-4 "adventure" with GM's DOHC 4-valve 4-cylinder, etc. And of course there's the seldom-mentioned Cadillac NORTHSTAR, which the Ford modular V8s are pretty much a straight up COPY of. Overall, all the "less valvetrain mass/higher rpm" shit is pretty hilarious given they're obviously only talking about "valvetrain" in the simplest, strictest sense of the word as in the valves, springs, locks and keepers and the lash adjusters/followers. Toss in the CAMSHAFTS and GEARS and those MILE LONG CHAINS and there isn't an "obsolete" V8 made today and maybe EVER besides true Hemi engines that has MORE VALVETRAIN MASS than a Ford Modular V-8. And MOST cam-in-block engines WITH heavier valvetrains used the camshaft for something besides operating the valves, such as driving the fuel pump and/or distributor and/or oil pump. I won't even get into the outright stupidity of super-complex, high-wear, high-stretch camshaft/cam drive/valvetrain designs for PERFORMANCE USE, whether is for POWER or FUEL ECONOMY. Which is why medium-duty and heavy-duty diesels, which have to perform consistently and reliably and efficiently for tens of thousands of hours at full load or when idling at no load use GEAR DRIVES FOR THE CAMSHAFT AND INJECTION PUMPS. And of course is why the very highest performance GAS ENGINES use gear drives too, as do smart engine builders who want maximum service life and who use premium parts and precise engine assembly to make gear drives more efficient, more reliable and more desirable than chains. Other guys just throw them in for the cool sound. But who goes with the cheapest, cheesiest chain-drive setup they can get? Nobody with a clue, although that's what most "high performance" Fords have in them today. They're not even using true roller chain setups. Mainly because of the noise and the greater expansion/contraction and stretch if not properly oiled and if overloaded. Both of which are guaranteed with the "modern" DOHC Ford "high performance" engines, which are now running silent link chains, even though they're way heavier and a lot harder on the rest of the timing gear train and tensioners/guides. Overall, Ford going "high tech" and deciding to go DOHC WITHOUT developing a good gear-drive system to go with it is typical of Ford appearing to spend lots of cash on tech but really going as cheap as they possibly can. Because the bottom line is that DOHC and SOHC engines are CHEAPER to "engineer" than a truly "modular" engine platform that's also RELIABLE and can stick with one basic architecture and do lots of things very well when money is put into right areas. Keeping the camshaft and crankshaft in "synch" and limiting variability and slippage in cam to crank timing as the engine operates, wears, accelerates, decelerates, warms up and cools down has always been the biggest hurdle to overcome in making cheap, chain-driven camshafts and valvetrains stay in tune and efficient and "dialed in" long-term. Going to FOUR CAMS and FOUR CHAINS is the pinnacle of stupidity and completely contrary to that goal.

[@pauldudakadanielthomson8890]

@@deeremeyer1749 -The other cam chain is short, succinct and 1 to 1. This doesn't and isn't FAA Aircraft standards. Chrysler used a simple to replace timing chain belt in their k-cars , but later in the 1990's enclosed two belts inside the 2.7 and 3.5 V6's. A bad idea cause the belts needed to be replaced after about 50,000 miles. The Ford 4.6 V8 can go 300.000 miles in most Lincolns. So my mark Vlll has moocho life left in the 295 hp 4.6 DOHC V8 power plant.

[@troubleshooting703]

Do you have a video on any info on removing the head. Do I need a special tool to keep the cam from rotating when I remove the tensioners?

[@luisalmodovar9381]

Very good info and detailss

[@markbrad675]

Sounds like a 60,s training video,from the older days ,,,training video for the technicians to fall asleep to..LOL

[@Will24three]

I tore the whole engine apart on my mustang. Hardest part by far was the power steering pump. To take it off and put it on was the hardest part.

[@martinquintanilla7355]

my 2k expo has an oil leak. 4.6 engine. i thought it was the oil filt adapter gasket. after a days work i come to find out i was wrong. upon further and thorough inspection. the leak seems to be coming from behind the ps pump. to see where it exactly its coming from i have to remove it. how many bolts hold up the ps pump? and do i have to remove the pulley prior to removing the pump? thx in advance

[@Will24three]

Martin Quintanilla if i can remember correctly it was three bolts. two are somewhat easy to access. but its one that you can only turn about an 1/8th of a turn each time. it may be more room inside of the engine bay of the expo, but inside of the mustang its tight. i left everything installed on the pump when i took it off. its just that one bolt took about 30 mins by its self.

[@martinquintanilla7355]

Thank you

[@foopadoopdaapdeep]

CAUTION: Do not! replace timing chains until dealer warranty period has expired. After warranty period has expired; Invoice the vehicle owner for slightly less than buying a new vehicle.

[@ihartmacz]

@damaster86 You have to make sure the engine is in-time. The best way is to align the marks.

[@ihartmacz]

@YourePrettyGoood Not sure what you're getting at. They want you to lock the camshaft with the tool, then take the chain and tensioner off, then you can rotate the crank how ever you want.

[@mygunisinnocent8028]

great video. thanks for posting

[@OutdoorEnt]

Big problem! We thought we had everything timed with the cam sprockets and Crank sprokets. Now we can't turn the engine completely over forward or back. Did we hit a valve?

[@MLGtroll365]

Because its like the new beginning. and its also like the starting point for when your miles are being counted i think. check the position of the bronze parts when he takes em off at 4:44

[@Squirlliam]

This video saved my life!!!!!

[@debralawson5569]

Jose Lule show video

[@92sonoma]

was looking at this vid for a friend that has a noise in her 2004 explorer v8. Ill def stick with my 89 and 90 chevy and gmc trucks. I even got a 88 rinker boat i built a 4.3 chevy v6truck engine bored ,060 over with all marine parts except crank, rods and pistons. turned between 3 and 5000rpm for hours for 5 days and still runs like new

[@paradisemace1]

Valve spring pressure on OHC engines can make the cam jump around and slam valve faces into the piston. NEVER position the crank at TDC. Instead, go forward or back about 15 degrees. Then the pistons are out of reach to the valves. The timing is marked on the chain so just turn the cams a little more, no big deal!

[@chasef5020]

Will The timing be off

[@chasef5020]

How do u make sure timing Dosnt jump and remember how the chain goes on

[@TheJuanAndOnly23]

@ihartmacz does this repair guide video also apply for the 2001 4.6 soch? cause my timing gears are two in one,it doesnt have one for each chain its two gears pretty much in one and its got one marking in the back of the gear and one in the front but both arent located exactly at the center only the vi9sible one thru the front is positioned dead center

[@arnoldtx100]

Its just a 10 minute job!

[@JisINSANE3]

I drive a cab same motor .what a beast.

[@gatykka69]

Awesome video thanx thats help me a lot..

[@jasoncameron34]

I have a question I asked a few different videos but when your putting the 4.6 back in time with chains off can it be 180 degrees out of time? Or doesn't it matter?

[@solexxx8588]

They didn't mention that you have to jack up the motor and remove all the broken plastic from the destroyed timing chain guided that were destroyed when the tensioners failed.

[@MrMicahMane]

His wasn’t destroyed that bad tho

[@ajjimenez2428]

@goodears100 no you don't just 4 bolts on the oil pan that go bolted down to the cover. Look under and in from of the oil pan you'll see your 4 bolts.

[@MrBigfoot1979]

Every single engine has plastic timing chain guides! what do you want them to make them out of? Metal?? Been that way for years I am a auto tech and have seen it on all makes and models!

[@SCE-ce9mh]

What do you think of Cast Iron guides, like on the Lincoln Aviator(Explorer but expensive)

[@wjmann6319]

like to see them mention the procedure for a FW drive like in the continental. Like to do this in the car without having to lift or remove the engine.

[@carltorjusen558]

remove all bolts holding body to frame and lift body off the frame.....

[@donniemorris437]

what if one of the chains doesnt have the copper link

[@thedobermangang3503]

good video my brother ,,i got 2004 maruader 112,000 miles on it..eventually im gonna have do my engine it has that rattle sound only when u frist start it up for about few seconds then it goes away..maybe timming chain tensioner latting the chain slap to the oil fill them or hydraullio cylinder in the tensionerare alittle worn

[@ihartmacz]

Good luck!

[@FtWChevyTruck]

This is great

[@ihartmacz]

@cellocityced I'm sorry. :( I'll try and find them this week end. I have them in a box in another location.

[@cellocityced]

@imjustpassinthru This is to remove the back bolts on the Crank shaft covers.

[@imjustpassinthru]

Why is it necessary to remove the wiper module assembly? Would that be necessary on every Ford product?

[@GeorgeLiquor]

AY MAN, Y'ALL GOT ANY MORE OF THEM PIXELS

[@cellocityced]

@ihartmacz Did you ever get those two videos posted?

[@SilverBullet93GT]

what is the Motorcraft part number for the paperclip :)

[@erict1144]

Same

[@jesusyeshuaelelyonelshadai6295]

Nice .. old but good

[@Whitehorze]

Engineers... Making simple things hard since 10,000 B.C.

[@smackledorfmcsween]

IKR!!!!

[@jamesreed7528]

+Whitehorze An engineer worth his salt wouldn't have used plastic parts in an internal combustion engine.

[@chexbmx9929]

Almost 9 out of ten engines use plastic chain guides lol, it causes the least amount of friction for the duration of miles you put on them. But I agree sorta. Titanium be any better ?? Lol

[@TerrenceMcNally87]

U ever get move videos on this car or others?

[@imjustpassinthru]

@ajuk1 ... Why is that, please? Is it because they're telling you to remove things that may not be necessary on every vehicle, like the wipers and left and right upper cowl?

[@64bluefal]

Done this on my sons car good video on 4.6, had to buy 2 cam hold down tools because one side would move when working on other. But you can bend valves if you dont do it right!!!! I done it in the past. I learned the hard way!! Also i marked dots with bright yellow so i could see them. Ten started right up!!! Yah Yuh!!

[@55chevytruck]

May i ask where did you get the hold down tools?

[@00GrnGT]

Warren Wimmer www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss/178-3171477-7453434?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=ford+4.6+cam+tool&rh=i%3Aaps%2Ck%3Aford+4.6+cam+tool

[@SnakePliscan]

64bluefal Hey, do you think a guy could just clamp the cams on the shaft part with a couple needle nose vise grips? also did you find it nesesary to hold the crank?

[@debralawson5569]

show comments

[@kevykev38]

This is making it harder than what it is. LOL I just mark the chains with a yellow oil pen laying the chain out together and marking each end link with the pen. With the crank top dead center TDC. Number 1 cylinder should be all the way up. Left side cylinder closest to you standing in front of vehicle. Crank timing marks are on gears at very bottom. match the yellow link to that mark and match the other on the can mark. repeat for other chain. Your timing after this will be right on the $

[@5.43v]

Mine was correct

[@orozco58m]

my camshaft gear broke how I put in time the camshaft? on my left side

[@ajjimenez2428]

thats because positioning your cams back to its 90 degree angle is a hard task that must be exact! and your Crank TDC is the simplest. All your doing is moving the heads exactly to the correct position by usingthe cranks tdc and locking them in place. You cant see tdc based on the cams with out removing the cam gear bolt and being able to see the notch at 90 deg. But your removing valves so regardless you shudnt be worrying about the cam moving, you'll have to position the cams back to there ang

[@j267699]

Dang, that's a lot of work. I hate to do this on a front-wheel drive Continental!!!

[@imjustpassinthru]

It's amazing they can do this without getting their hands dirty! Those parts look so shiny and clean.

[@ajjimenez2428]

well if your removing the head no need to worry about the cam moving.lol unless all you plan to do is change the gasket in wich case yes there's a specialty tool to hold it in place as you JUST saw in the video but if your removing the head already cause its bad and needs a rebuild and shave down you'll need to re-position the cams back at their 90 degree position and make sure the crank is at 315 degree TDC position.

[@al-mubdizahir8704]

what was all that extra stuff about under the car in front of the engine? i dont think that was necessary

[@Bemirboy]

Do you have one on a 4.6 DOHC ??? I want one so bad please!

[@nicoleporfirio642]

Ok, I have a 2004 mustang gt 4.6L. I ended up blowing my plug str8 up the coil. Took my heads off and replaced them. Come to find out that ford forgot to cut the threads all the way down the plug cavity. They only did less then half of the threading. Ford should have recalled all 2004 mustangs just for that... forget the timing mark on the crank shaft that was way off from TDC. Its like they didn't give a sh!t. Really pissed off over this one.

[@ajjimenez2428]

Its all convenience bud,just more hand room to remove and replace the head covers that's all ,so not really necessary. unless it is really in the way and wont let you remove the covers,some crown vics likemy 2001 have that problem only not with the wiper assembly but the heater core canister on the left and the brake master cylinder and canister on the right impeding you from removing them, unless you demount the engine and pull it fwd.lol

[@Mark1944089]

Timing Chains are complex work but it could be done just make show there's Absolutely NO resistance will u rotation the crank

[@everydaygameclips]

i have 97 ford explorer that needs timing chain replacement my engine is V6 SOHC 4x4 4.0L. Does anybody know of a how video for this engine?

[@Mychannelyupmineall]

What are we looking at for repair time? 20 hours? Thank you for the post

[@jccrawford6438]

Jordan B Junk

[@ajuk1]

Could they have made it harder if they tried?

[@commanderstud2417]

What if it skips time? How do you get the cam back to its right spot?

[@5.43v]

Change the timing guides and chain

[@eddyman30]

Is this procedure the same for a 1997 ford crown vic?

[@TempoDrift1480]

eddyman30 yep-ski

[@westranchmedia8019]

Do I need to actually disconnect that stuff or can I just get to the timing chain and fix it with out doing all that

[@stevehartley6479]

LOL, no man I just did this on my Grand Marquis and didn't remove all that stuff. You can take off the timings chain front plate by removing the big stuff like the fan cover, air intake, valve covers etc.

[@goodears100]

Hey so do i need to remove my oil pan to get my timing chain cover off?? I have a 96 mustang gt 4.6 engine.

[@guitarprepnplus1]

Front 4 bolts.

[@ericjackson87]

you literally have to remove everything but the hood lol

[@johnecker4217]

Eric Jackson I think that was removed before they started recording, 🤔🤣

[@LynxStarAuto]

Meh anyone with a 4.6 has done this for several reasons

[@kevykev38]

@kevykev38 Cam* mark I meant

[@harryaldieny7697]

you've got to be kiddin me!

[@cameronsalyers1915]

where do i find a universal crankshaft damper remover/installer kit anyone know?

[@andrewmontgomery1763]

***** go to autozone or advance auto and you can rent one for 20-30 bucks. For a mod motor you'll need a three-bolt puller

[@pantherplatform]

_Not much has changed_

[@ajjimenez2428]

@AJ Jimenez * front

[@STeroidsnicca]

whats the easiest way to change the timing chains?

[@scales57]

James Jackson buy a new car.

[@danlachappelle]

mine was starting to tick at about 150k miles, had the work done , the engine is smooth and quiet now, I am running only mobil 1 synthetic also like Amsoil

[@GooglFascists]

Dan LaChappelle It won't matter if you use Space Shuttle oil at $1000 a quart. With this piss-poor design the chains will go bad again around 150K miles.

[@PatriotPaulUSA]

Paul F By the way the oldest company in St Louis is Schaeffer's Oil and its all I use! They started out making Black beauty grease for covered wagons going west! LOL! It beat Amsoil in our local tests for engine wear. Its industrial and sold worldwide and used by racing engine builders but its not found in auto parts stores.

[@denisekelly4342]

how to set the timing on a 2002 Crown Vic

[@denisekelly4342]

how to set the timing on a 2002 Crown Vic

[@denisekelly4342]

how to set the timing on a 2002 Crown Vic

[@ajjimenez2428]

cause metal on metal guides would grind and leave metal residue inside your block,oil pump,filter etc.. in time that would fuck up your engine.

[@ajjimenez2428]

its actually pretty much the same bud ,doesn't change much in the technique you saw here and how it all goes.

[@ROYCE415]

5:00 install

[@ROYCE415]

6:25 tension bleeding

[@zxtenn]

Don't replace cam sprockets?

[@GooglFascists]

jim dandy They come with the kit. I have no idea why.

[@bill731990]

lol what a royal cluster fuck

[@seglermichael]

they made that look way to hard dont need to do half that shit

[@mevsme6416]

+seglermichael my thoughts exactly

[@deeremeyer1749]

Really? What can be skipped? Sure any shadetree wannabe can find ways to "work around" factory service and repair procedures, but this is a general information video for 4.6 engines as a whole and not vehicle or model year specific. And most of the time the "work around" shadetree shit wannabes do ends up causing more work and more re-work compared to doing it by the book. I've been inside one of those engines, or rather a 5.4 in a Super Duty. Looks about right to me. I don't know where much time would be saved and typically nobody is just going to replace timing chains. The video implies otherwise, but you'd have to be a fucking idiot to replace the chains and not the sprockets, too. And although dropping the oil pan and checking the sump screen is very quickly and quietly mentioned, timing chain noise is almost always loose chains due to maxxed out tensioners and worn out chain guides or low oil pressure to the tensioners. And that puts you right back to the oil pump and sump screen. Why anyone would go this far and only swap in a set of chains and why any OEM or aftermarket chains are available without full sprocket sets is anyone's guess. Especially since sprocket wear is the big factor in perceived wear of the chains and causes most of the actual wear in the chains. Sprocket wear also gives the tensioners a lot less effective travel. Of course there are lots of different Ford mod motor camshaft and timing gear setups, a ton of different chain/gear/tensioner/guide combinations and getting the wrong parts will grenade the freshly repaired engine in short order and most aftermarket parts companies stay MILES from the Ford modular BOAT ANCHORS. And people working on these engines are typically tight-asses or wannabe "hot rodders" who don't or won't spend money or ask questions to make sure they're doing shit right and won't buy factory parts if they're "too expensive" and cut into their "performance parts" budget, so that's just another reason for the aftermarket to avoid those engines like the plague. Those same factors make supplying chains alone less sprockets pretty attractive, though. Because any post-repair failures are easy to blame on bad sprockets, improper assembly or other "mechanic errors". Roller chain is cheap, standardized and its hard to make them wrong as long as the pitch and link count match. And the "copper ends" are "fuses" that will fail under extreme load or binding, which makes the whole "blame the mechanic" thing easy. The bottom line is that most guys wait until the engine is "ticking", they imagine the noise is coming from the timing chains, which it may in fact be, and they throw a set of chains at the engine hoping to quiet it down long enough to sell or trade the vehicle. But the real problem is low oil pressure to due a plugged pickup screen and worn or damaged pump gears from pump cavitation and the ticking is due to LOOSE chains and/or hydraulic lash adjusters and timing chain tensioners maxxed out and plugged up with debris from the oil pump gear wear. Overall, Ford modular engines are throwaways that get less and less reliable the more shit Ford puts on them that requires engine oil to operate such as VVT, the more RPM Ford squeezes out of them to make "big horsepower" with shitty low-end torque and the more Ford renames them and calls the "performance engines". The "new" Coyote and "new" GT engines are just the same old shit with more compromises and shorter lifespans. And the main reason Ford went with the "5.0" is so fools and Ford fanboys wouldn't associate them WITH the other mod motors. If Ford had stuck with the 4.6 or 5.4 they'd have been toast. They're shooting themselves in the foot even more pretending the "5.0" engines are new, but that's typical Ford. As iong as the vehicles are out of warranty and the fool fanboys who bought into the "new" mythology would have major egg on their face if they fessed up to the facts when they finally realize the truth and called Ford out, Ford is save selling the same old shit and calling it "new".

[@darryldickson4360]

DEEREMEYER1 How about the cowl and wipers

[@SoundOfYourDestiny]

"way to hard"? What does that mean?

[@Lotum4n]

I took the valve cover off with a 14lb post maul and with a few tiny round house swings i loosened it up quite easily to expose the damaged cam shafts which i figured i should replace while i was this far already into the engine . I started to find alot of metal fragments in the engine head so a took a few more swings at them and found out that the engine wasnt worth fixing with so much work needing to be done so i bought a new motor and its working just fine .Dont waste your cash on reapiring .

[@ajjimenez2428]

Thats as easy as it gets,2001 models wont even let you completely take off the valve covers with out dismounting your engine and moving it fwd from the heater core and brake master cylinder and canister.

[@JustMike2791]

He should have also taken the radio out of the car in the bay next to this car. For good measure.

[@ajjimenez2428]

Not really it really is as you saw it except for the wipers all that does is give your hands more movement and space to remove the head covers

[@jimjackle2739]

They could have engineered this better by using longer wires and routing them around the engine instead of on top. They care more about saving money on wire

[@neilouellette3004]

Always replace the guides and tensioners. That's a given we all know about. This guy says inspect used worn ones and replace if needed. Give me a break. Always replace.

[@anthonyevich3836]

Neil Ouellette so true!

[@qwer153624]

nice video, but it is not that easy to pull the timing covers off in a crownvic.

[@ronaldtrump7370]

the passenger side valve cover is a job, no easy way to do it. Take off the drivers motor mount, it sucks.

[@qwer153624]

@@ronaldtrump7370 I removed both without messing with the mounts. You can do it.

[@5.43v]

@@qwer153624 ratchet straps

[@billysanders664]

I rate myself as a 4 out of 10 as a mechanic, and I did this and skipped about 40% of this bull$hit.

[@fivefortyeye540i]

@billy lol how long did it take you?? I may half to do one on a 99 crown Vic.. Any pointers?

[@billysanders664]

Sorry late reply, I had other issues as well so I did mine at about 160k because I was tearing it apart anyways. As for time, your gonna hate this answer... depends on you and how careful you wanna be. I highly recommended you go check molded mustang and American muscle forums. There are guys on there who do engine swaps in their driveway in a day using hand tools and a couple jack stands. I changed out an intake manifold in 4 hours, I could have done it in 2 on a modular mustang but since I had to stop and take pictures as I went.....

[@AntoineFinch]

where is your video i have a 2001 expedition 4.6L

[@billysanders664]

Antoine Finch oi dont have one. i took pictures so i could get everything back together. yours may be different but on the mustang if you take out the radiator you can do everything in the engine bay with ample room. you will need to rent a cam tool though. it really is pretty straight forward depending on what your changing out.

[@billysanders664]

Antoine Finch out of curosity are you doing this because you have a ralltle or bad chain guide?

[@GeoJuana]

And that's why they charge $2500 jc

[@josephineledford351]

Daaaaaaaaaaaaaaamn this is gonna be expensive 💀

[@j.t.cooper2963]

I'll need a second mortgage for all of the "special tools" required.😅

[@weelgunny]

I don't hate Fords, but I sure hate working on them. No more for me.

[@justinjeepcobra]

You guys are gettin the wrst years of 4.6... the older teksids an romeos 4valve eve sphcs are wat u want.. im a gm guy... but thetes nothin like a cobra 4'6 wen it comes to reliabilty an beating.

[@prevost8686]

It’s not a difficult job for those that ain’t playing.

[@ajjimenez2428]

no you could of spun your cam all the way around wouldnt make a difference,my 2001 tensioner arms broke making the timing gears and chains go out of timing pretty bad as long as your crank was at 315 degrees TDC and your cams were placed back in their 90 degree angle postion and your chain markings with the timing gear and cam gear markings all line up You'll be fine

[@shartingfish5761]

This is way easier than doing a belt on a toyota

[@SWFLJetSkiRiders]

Can anybody do this on a crown Vic pleases.

[@erict1144]

same engine? Apply to crown vic

[@ACDC5540]

Then remove all lugnuts