In Depth Look at Decorative Concrete Forms: #2

[@jonathanblack7379]

From a structural engineer, there’s no kill like overkill, and you’re well over sir, keep up the good work

[@DATDesign]

As a structural detailer (someone who works under the engineers and gets to create the drawings for bridge and other structural projects) I'm loving this little series. Us office guys hardly ever get to go out into the field and see the projects being constructed that we spend so much of our lives (sometimes years) putting together. But tagging along with Scott on his projects is honestly some of the most invaluable information I've ever taken in, and I try to apply it to my DIY projects around my house. Long time subscriber. Keep up the good work, Scott!

[@roxydog2004]

Just think if Norm Abram had a personality for tv he wouldn't have needed Vila all them years. Scott my friend you are an Essential Craftsman

[@MrAPCProductions]

No an engineer, but I built and installed gates with my father for more than 20 years. I've never seen this amount of work to put together a drive gate that wasn't paid for by the government. This is wild.... I do not even have the words to describe the over built measures in these calculations.....

[@MrElemonator]

Your used to living are one use products and cheap art?

[@kiwigrunt330]

This gate is paid for by KZbin fans....

[@billgideon5942]

You’ll never know if you overbuild it !!! Word that were told to me by an old carpenter when we were building concrete forms . We never had a form blow out !!!

[@Mr0rris0]

​@@kiwigrunt330so a vatican pass through by way of loyola in cooperation with the post great depression great new deal communist wellfare facade we call the capitalist free market of artificial scarcity at gunpoint?

[@Mr0rris0]

​@@kiwigrunt330to simplify 2008 signifies no one is really the businessman they think they are and everyone is the commodity they think they aren't HAPPY TRAILS¡!¡

[@HazItMade]

Scott, with the grade-beam, the only thing you need to do is make sure there's 1 1/2' between the soil sides and the rebar. Without at least 1 1/2 inches, the rate of oxidation is greatly increased.

[@derrickkalhoun5494]

Instead of tape on imbeds and conduits, we have been using aluminum foil. No sticky mess after the pour and does the same job 👍

[@thomasbrown9402]

Also goes well with the Crisco theme

[@onlinetuna]

Structural Eng here. The grade beam is probably not necessary (reserving that we haven't seen the end result as yet) but for the sake of doing it, it will add so much capacity and strength to the whole arrangement, even if it is offset slightly. What I would say is, you are going to all this effort only to minimally anchor the bolts to the outside of a set of stirrups which are themselves minimally anchored into the footing pads (edit: went back and watched video #1, the tack welded stirrups are very well anchored into the footing, so disregard that. I still would want the bolts to be inside the stirrup cage ideally) I would have used much longer J-bolts that anchor into the footing rather than anchoring into those stirrups. Its unlikely to make a difference on this particular project as it looks very over engineered as it is. But if you're going to do it this way, why not get the absolute best embedment possible?

[@dethmaul]

Maybe he tack welded those too?

[@sungear]

Do you mean the J bolts should go down another foot or so?

[@MrVajutza]

Also struct eng. I agree, no issue with the offset angle of the grade beam, IMHO I wouldn’t worry regarding the length of the J bolts though as 6 is plenty strong enough to hold the metal uprights and whatever hits the post would deform, bend or snap the uprights before the J bolts would fail in either tension or shear. 😊

[@onlinetuna]

@@MrVajutza yup agreed. Those J bolts in concrete without the rebar at all would likely do fine for this application. "That's not going anywhere" as they say. I just thought if EC is going to this much effort (adding grade beams etc) you might as well get the best engagement out of the bolts by extending them.

[@onlinetuna]

@@sungear that's what I'm saying yeah, but only as best practice/ optimal performance of the bolts. Ideally also the main shaft of the bolt should have been within a rebar cage rather than outside it. As they were placed in the video could cause the bolts to burst out the edges.

[@beachtimehawaiibth7222]

Giving us the plan, design, build, detail, calm manor is why we love your videos. THIS is the kind of video I always love to watch. Only thing that could have made it better, is Sy at your side heckling you about your angle. Love Sy’s laugh and grin that he gets in his calm manor! Keep up the good work and keep THIS kind of video coming our way! Appreciated!!! 🙏

[@Attemptedvelocity]

I love this stuff it takes me back to the job site. I'm an electrician, but learning from this man is just great. I know working with or for this man would have been just a real honor. Guys like this are a rare thing. He not only wants you to know how but why. The knowledge and experience to answer the questions you have. Awesome! Let's goooo!

[@alienhexican8017]

Rather than tapping the forms with a hammer, use a reciprocating saw with the blade removed. It gives a perfect amount of vibration to the forms and won't make your arm fall of from swing a hammer.

[@vince9486]

Or a battery orbital sander...

[@AngelLuisTrinidad]

Or borrow my female friend's vibrator. That thing is huge, it would do the job.

[@HandymanLife]

Or just use a concrete vibrator 😂

[@talltimberswoodshop7552]

I'm always amazed at your ability to see in 3D in reverse with your forms.

[@psidvicious]

My carpentry career started with wood framing and then when I moved on to concrete, there was definitely a period of “reprogramming” that had to be done, to learn to think in relief (backwards) and 3D.

[@BenScott1988]

Hi Scott - great work on the gate. Love the channel and all that you share here. The key difference between grade beams and spread footings is load path! Grade beams are usually found where there are very weak soils that can't practically support weight. They support the structure and transfer loads from the beam to piles or a similar deeper style foundation. The stirrups and rebar resist the bending and twisting that transfer places on the beams. Spread footings do just that, spread the load out onto the soil below.

[@GRUBB-MUDD]

When we pouring some more Concrete? Essential craftsman is built behind great people. And that's the concrete truth

[@essentialjudge2279]

Pilaster. Lol. The grade beam is a great idea, and the only way you can be for sure that the post won't separate or lean. Remember, if it's a heavy gate, when it's open 90° from its closed position, it'll want to tilt the whole mess towards that direction. I did all this years ago out of 12 inch square steel tubing. 6 inch uprights out of square steel tubing, all welded. Volkswagen stub axles with tapered bearing fit inside a 3-inch pipe was inside of the six inch square pipe and 1 inch studs sticking out the side with 90° slot this way the swivel pipe was all concealed it also had a tie rod going from one day to the next so I only needed one opener and they swung together. 35 years ago.

[@dalekrohse1871]

The chamfer edges are a nice detail. In 1974, when I was an engineering student I worked for an electric substation construction contractor and we always put chamfers on our foundation above-ground column edges. They looked better, in my opinion. Keep up your good work on the videos and the content.

[@44R0Ndin]

It would not surprise me one bit if adding a chamfer to the top of the column edges made them last longer too. Less of an angle for ice to collect on, seep in, and pry the concrete apart. But I'm no engineer, so I'd be just as unsurprised if I was totally off-base.

[@slynn5138]

Must be all utilities that love having decorative concrete work. I manage all of the foundation work for our local utility in Southern California. Their designs always incorporate chamfered edges for both substation and pole foundations.

[@sunracer1869]

Easy tip to remember when cutting champher is when cutting always position the 45° away from you. 90° degree chamber side goes facing you when cutting. To avoid splitting the champher spray form oil prior on the champher let soak.

[@bobkat1663]

More than enough structure, Great Show.

[@edzachary8657]

Jeez Scott, I'm not a structural engineer but I've been around a lot of commercial construction sites, I think you've got it covered with that rebar and engineering

[@brentjenkinsdesigns]

I use those shears to cut shoe mold and quarter round. Stops the majority of the up & down and outside for re-cuts.

[@thetommantom]

From the beginning of the spec house to now I've gone from foundations poured walls and precast now testing concrete, and inspector. Test soil bearing capacity, inspect rebar and test concrete, yield, mix, strength, and document everything

[@patc9102]

I have been thinking of building a security/ cattle gate for our farm. What a great idea to ties both post together. Thanks for sharing the grear work.

[@richardwalters1803]

You are truly a fine craftsman, and have a wonderful way with the English language

[@rustyul]

You have a very beautiful table saw. I have a nice Powermatic 66, but yours is just on another level. You're a very fortunate man.

[@theoh6260]

Wow!!! Your detail and precision with this project is amazing…. There is no contractor in the U.S. that would construct something with that much detail and that much internal strength.

[@bradcavanagh3092]

Precision... apart from the beam being crooked :)

[@georgewelker853]

It’s not that contractors aren’t willing to do that kind of job with precision and overbuilt level of quality. The market demands that they quote the least that will get the job done. Very few to none of the people paying for this kind of work would be ok with the bill for that level of gate installation

[@Hoaxer51]

@@georgewelker853, Especially a homeowner, well, most homeowners. Lol Probably most jobs that are done with this degree of being overbuilt are builders/fabricators that are doing this for themselves. Sometimes that’s where the fun comes in.

[@psidvicious]

@@georgewelker853 Very true and thanks for highlighting that point. We’d all love to do “pretty work” but not many want to pay for it. Reminds me of the old contractor adage; Good, Fast & Cheap. Pick 2, because the budget won’t allow for all 3.

[@theoh6260]

@@georgewelker853 You are definitely right about that!!!!

[@artgrathartgrath3451]

Love and respect for this man

[@johnsrabe]

This is such an elegant and simple idea. You don’t even have to get complicated with miters etc. You could just add some 1x2’s inside the forms and it would add interest. You could even add monograms from cheapo wood or plastic letters attached backwards.

[@ericwiken1990]

That’s a fair point, but the miters have the added benefit of reducing stress concentrations in the corners. That will keep the concrete from chipping off and leave the footing looking great forever.

[@johnsrabe]

@@ericwiken1990 oh duh. Just like breaking the edge or rounding the edges on wood.

[@snowgorilla9789]

Better get the rorrim out

[@dunep6465]

Scott, the structure is more than adequate, even if we have the big one. And the grade beam? Wow! I'm an overbuilder also and your detail is top notch. It just takes a little bit of work and the results will be beautiful. Can't wait to see the end result.

[@FarmsteadForge]

I'm looking forward to seeing how the crisco works, that's a pretty slick trick! 😉I use playdoh all of the time in my farrier practice for building dams for acrylics - it's cheap and it works better than the expensive stuff!

[@jackgreen412]

I used bacon grease for form release before. It workrd well but the ants loved it!

[@alexmoll8372]

Cove mouldings look really cool, too! Worth the effort. Nice job!

[@MutinyEvo]

Watching that bit about making the concrete form with teh chamfers I think is the best, most direct representation of how your thought process works.

[@pdrhodes68]

That is a fun project. Glad you found the time to do it! Fun to watch. Some day I hope to have the time.

[@WC4DOOR]

That’s my story and I’m sticking to it. I like it. From a concrete and steel guy, you can fix any concrete mistakes with steel.

[@Chumpy819]

This is the first project I've gotten to watch as it goes up and it's utterly fascinating. It's a phenomenal way to start my weekends just watching you build and listening to the explanation of your thought process.

[@bradmeacham6982]

"It's my story, and I'm sticking to it!" 😉🤠

[@mayhemmayo]

THANK YOU . KEEP UP THE GOOD WORK

[@yougetagoldstar]

That's a fine job.

[@samuelsmith9999]

“Progressive tightening of the tolerance” … Yes!

[@conor-breathnach]

I’m interested to see all the wiring that goes in. Looks like you have it well catered for!

[@tonyn3123]

During my career, I have seen miles of chamfer strips installed on bridges performing the task of breaking 90 deg+ corners which are weak, beauty strips on columns and walls, flutes, drip lines, etc. I realize you are doing architectural formwork that requires more accuracy for closer inspection. On bridges in my state, more times the strips are installed to create the location and roughly form the chamfer accents that are rubbed out while the concrete is still green enough to look great. I am not a structural engineer, but in my construction experience, the beam below the entire roadway is definitely not important to the stability of the upright support posts, unless there is something about the design I haven't seen yet. A little larger footing for each post is all that was really needed. I also would not wait a week to wreck the forms. A day is sufficient if you are careful and certainly makes achieving a nice, rubbed finish easier. Thanks, and nice work.

[@DATDesign]

As far as the grade beam goes, I believe it's less about stability but more for making everything monolithic, and tying the posts together. If there is any movement of the structure in the future, it won't affect the alignment of the gate and posts. Not an engineer either, but I do detail and draft construction plans for bridges in PA. Agree that we call out either 3/4" x 3/4" or 1" x 1" chamfers or 1" radius on pretty much everything above grade, like you mentioned. Sharp edges = inevitable cracking in the future. It looks way nicer too!

[@jinijim1330]

Wow!! U know, here on the rez, it's just dig a hole and plant yur post 🤯🤣🤣 A lot to learn from 🤔🤓 thank you

[@stucorbett7905]

Thats MDO plywood. We use it for repeated use on form work. Leaves a nice finish. Cheers from Montana.

[@alexnelson6196]

1 1/8” forms?

[@lanedouglas2165]

It’s bombproof, alignment not an issue!

[@TheWibbo]

Thats some excellent mud carpentry sir.

[@guysquarred]

I'm not an engineer but i think i Can answer your question since i did thé research for myslef a few years ago. A footing usually transfers the load directly on the beating ground. A grade beam spans the distance between two pile. In your case your beam must resist the weight of traffic and the torque from the pillar ( the weight of the gate, wind etc). For the hoops, they serves to resist to shear forces. You know that in a beam a side is always in compression while the other is in tension (those sides can switch depending on how the load is applied), it means the forces decreases and reverses as you go up or down the beam which creates shear forces and resulting tangential forces in regard to the bearing point. Hope that helps.

[@1puppetbike]

When I was doing a lot of nice residential and commercial gates, we would drop a half yard to a yard of concrete around a six inch or larger square post made of half inch steel. When it was set it was time to weld Greasible hinges. When the posts were set they would often be clad in stone. Beautiful work as always E.C.

[@kennethbarber438]

looks like the right tool to use if your thumb is too long.

[@Hoaxer51]

😜👍

[@robertschillaci4077]

I’m not sure about crisco, but white bearing grease works great up here in Canada. Also WD40 if You’re in a bind, as long as it’s not left on too long before the pour. Great work, keep it up

[@mitchdenner9743]

Cheaper than diesel fuel which is commonly used around here.

[@psidvicious]

@@mitchdenner9743 In the old days, diesel was the go-to form release for most everyone. Then environmental issues became a thing and they started making specific form release products. The funny thing is, the new form releases smelled exactly like diesel. As a matter of fact, on those occasions when we used to run out of form oil, we would just use diesel anyway, because it’s readily available and no one would call you out for ‘killing the planet’. No one could tell the difference. I always wondered if they made it smell like diesel on purpose, just for that reason.

[@44R0Ndin]

@@psidvicious My money is on the form release just being a more highly refined diesel fuel that's specifically treated to remove the parts of it that we know for a fact contaminate the environment. So it smells like diesel oil because it's almost exactly diesel oil. This new form release stuff might actually be just RP-1 rocket-fuel grade kerosene, now that I think of it. The reason it's rocket-grade is because it's a narrower "cut" of the feedstock hydrocarbons, which helps to get rid of any chemicals that could cause heavy soot buildup in the cooling passages or fuel injector heads inside the rocket engine's combustion chamber). Of course this makes it more expensive for the reason that they don't refine as much of it, and what little they do refine is processed at a lower yield than regular heating/farm grade kerosene. I find it strange how stuff that was once alive (most crude oil by weight is formed of atoms that were previously part of plants from the carboniferous era, not dinosaurs) can be so persistent at snuffing life out in the present day..... It sure gives you something to think about, but you'll have to ask someone else what it all means.

[@shanesouza4303]

I have to do the same at my place. At least I'm alot more inspired and motivated to design and construct it. Nothing like that feeling of seeing what was in your mind coming to creation. 😎✌️

[@timothymbess]

I'm not an engineer, but Roseburg is like 50 minutes south of me so I'll drive down and watch you dig.

[@natej6671]

A footing uses the bearing capacity of the earth for support. As long as the footing is in contact with mother earth, it will be doing its job. A grade beam is beam that is "at" or "below" grade level. Like any other beam, it will need to be supported (typically at the ends and sometimes along its span). Even though a lot of the grade beam is in contact with mother earth, it is typically supported by tying into a larger footing or bearing on piles, and piers etc. Think of it as an underground beam that would maintain its integrity even if the soils around it were to give away.

[@giovannifiorentino8947]

I usually screw my formwork for ease of disassemble. Scott, nice cutting tool, can you include the link in the description?

[@tjt4036]

Always enjoy and learn from your videos. Keep up the good work👍👍.

[@Kevin-wj4ed]

You are a man of great knowledge!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[@ADBBuild]

The previous owner of my house built a 6' tall gate with two 6' wide sections, splitting in the middle. The posts are bolted to the 4" thick slab of the driveway with four 3/8" bolts each. While not the best, it is working, so I have no doubt your gate will last forever. lol

[@randymartin5521]

I'm excited to see how this turns out.

[@markpalmer5311]

Really enjoying this series.

[@bensmith6051]

Can’t wait to see the pour!

[@ScrewThisGlueThat]

The plywood your using is called “MDO” it is mostly used in the sign industry. It has mdf on the outside and exterior grade plywood core.

[@boriss.861]

Possibly Carpet Gripper Rod Cutters Scott?

[@moutrap]

Did you just run 11 electrical conduit for a gate? Overbuilt on all measure, I love it

[@RobRoy100]

Use a sawzall without a blade to vibrate the forms

[@Tuggernutz50]

considering you have put enough structure in that gate to support a 4 story commercial building i think you'll be ok that the grade beam isn't quite square.

[@jakemustian99]

That, my good sir, is going to be a serious gate.

[@mikelockhart9114]

Does Mrs EC know you used her Crisco? Keep up the good work! That will be quite the gate.

[@gtbkts]

Thanks for the awesome content and great video!!!!

[@jerryminyard7460]

Good job man

[@Deano.1978]

Wouldn't pass inspection for a floor slab, but its a gate Scott - I think you'll be ok :)

[@honeytubs]

Would be interesting to see you change the concrete slomp with superplasticiser instead of water. Adding water is not good for your concrete. I am curious to see why you need both 3 and 6 inch slump. Looking forward to the next vid. Thanks for sharing.

[@fruittopiagulfcoastsaltwat878]

Nice work

[@vincegarza3701]

Nice!!!

[@BlueSOF]

I’m no structural engineer, but I am wondering if that footing is going to stay put under the torque of the gates when they are at their open position. The crossbeam seems like it will keep the posts from collapsing toward each other when the gate is closed, but I expected outriggers parallel to the road to help stabilize the posts under the load of the open gates. We had a pair of gates put in, but our soil is very hard and rocky with no clay. With those conditions, the posts were sunk over five feet and embedded in 6’ x 6’ x 5’ reinforced concrete blocks.

[@psidvicious]

If you look at the gate column foundations, they look to be about 4-5 yards of concrete each (not including the connecting strap beam). Each foundation will weigh close to 20K lbs, that will have to support swinging gates about 6’ high X 7’ long. Just from the plan elevation, I’d estimate the gates to weigh in at about a ton each? Those foundations should hold up like a champ from what I’m seeing.

[@michaelgoodwin5162]

What is the brand name on the plywood forms? Only option I see around me is Tiger Form from Menards. I have used melamine in the past. Water sealing the ends to keep it from swelling. Worked well.

[@zacharyrosser9916]

Great content

[@thetommantom]

Obviously it would be stronger if it were to be done the way you wanted however you know what you got you could add dowels or rebar to connect them and at that point you might need to make the joints a tad wider to accommodate proper clearance

[@vayde]

Enjoying this new mini series a lot so far! Can i ask about your hat? I've been on the lookout for one like that with a wide brim

[@28thAttempt]

Was this road always this busy? If I recall correctly this has been your families homestead for 3 generations? Roads suck. Have you done anything to block the noise coming to the house?

[@21rhocke]

I’m a structural engineer. Per your invitation I’ll weigh in and say that this gate will be able to eat an Abrams tank traveling at top speed.

[@michaelpettit1263]

On a project like this where there will be a reasonable amount of water soaking the concrete over time, is there any reason other than a bit of up front cost not to use a crystalline waterproofing admixture like Xypex or Kryton to protect the rebar?

[@mitchdenner9743]

What, no 50 cal mount? Pfff! Don't forget the 240 outlet to make welding repairs a breeze. 😊

[@jonanderson5137]

Not a concrete guy, I've seen conduit ruined by not capping well enough. Think about adding a couple extra chases, make sure your boxes are good and while you're tearing up the road maybe think about irrigation or conduit for sensors/cameras. Looks like your guy has planned well by the amount of conduit already run.

[@beniamincolta709]

How come nobody is pointing out the elephant in the shop! I like concrete work and concrete forms but sir can you please tell us what is the table base in the back of the shop? Those steel brackets look great! Please show us the connections between the different wood members. We would highly appreciate it!

[@MikeHarris1984]

I thought for sure you were going to have some concrete piers coming up and would do like an art deco inlay design or something, rather then just a 45° chamfer. Amazing job. Hopefully the unwanted guests that are coming up is more like coyotes or something and not dumb fans or trolls showing up at your door.

[@ambiguoustv7403]

Thank God for Essential Craftsman, Wranglerstar and Dry creek wrangling school, what would todays young men do without them

[@ITG45]

We’re you a member of the UBC?

[@WalterRiggs]

Gadzooks. Woe be unto whoever jumps the guardrail and whacks the end of that gate. 😂

[@kierandoherty1600]

I was going to suggest a jig like you have made to hold the bolts in the last video. Only difference, maybe wrap them in something like a pool noodle, which when burnt out after concrete has set will give a little wriggle room when fitting the bolts. No doubt though you wont need it 😅

[@charlesjohnsjr.5809]

It’s so hot here Crisco would melt

[@ozo998]

I'm only a 2nd period apprentice and my god what I would give to learn under this man

[@hungry_arch]

Geez Scott, those piers will survive WWIII 😅

[@balzacq]

So I'm confused -- what's the point of an elaborate security gate if the trespassers can just walk around it between the gate and the highway? Will there be a fence?

[@essentialcraftsman]

There will Definitely will be a fence!

[@kode3]

This traffic noise is brutal. Maybe a sound wall is in order.

[@kirkyorg7654]

cool

[@gleneverett9728]

That sure looks like a lot of gate

[@MrElemonator]

People don't have nice things because they don't know how to build it or at least take care of it 🖖🏻

[@philgriffiths5514]

Blimey there are a lot of pick up trucks going by..🧐

[@thomasbrown9402]

Definitely engineered for the zombie apocalypse.. or alternatively, deer.

[@elplata7224]

This is awesome

[@ColeSpolaric]

I noticed last video that the grade beam was crooked lol