Could I drill out the tensioner pulley to take an M10 straight through. And use an M10 to M10 stud. Instead of the silly M8 to M10 stepped bolt that is prone to snap at yield if over tightening the nut? (The correct torque amount 23nm for the nut puts it right in this area) ... To an engineer even just the weight of that tensioner on the M8 is a daft idea. If you hit a particularly large pot hole I can see this going ping and the M8 to M10 step
@Noneoftheabuv2 жыл бұрын
Literally you just described what happened to me…. It broke exactly where the m10 threads start at the hole… I am so lost right now it’s ridiculous…. This is the only car I have…
@agentcarbunkle2 жыл бұрын
@@Noneoftheabuv Sorry to hear that. I did do the mod, i put a straight 75mm m10 threaded stud in and drilled the hole in the tensioner out to 10mm. I didnt like the way its was originally designed with the m8 to m10. It wasn't easy to drill the tensioner out as it was quite thick and took sometime to do on my drill press. The cap/ plate on the end of the tensioner was hardened steel too so i had to use a carbide tipped deburr in a die grinder to make that hole bigger. I've done about 10,000 miles since so seems to have worked out.
@Noneoftheabuv2 жыл бұрын
@@agentcarbunkle man that’s great…. I imagine it wasn’t easy….. I’ve drilled the hole open and I’m going to press the broken end in the hole and JB weld it. I don’t think it’ll work but I have to do something.
@frijus1004 жыл бұрын
hi what tool psrt number where you euse white roller anf green block
@Mcevoy912 жыл бұрын
This happened to my car. Bsy engine code. Old stud came loose after 400kms after belt change. Timing slipped. Cracked rockers only thankfully 🙏