INCREDIBLE ONLY 4W of 40W to make PCB with diode laser engraver

[@DanieleTartaglia]

Sculpfun 40w: www.geekbuying.com/go/94VEH4Yp

[@deldridg]

Takes me back to the 80s when I made dozens of circuits (egg-timer for mum!) using a Dalo pen. Very satisfying to watch and maybe this is a good thing to try with my own kids. Cheers from Sydney - Dave

[@we-are-electric1445]

I used transfers 40 years ago to make PCB's. I don't think the video is taking things any further forward !

[@Sayakas_Digital_Attic]

What a fantastic project! The video is exceptionally clear, smooth and informative, making it easy to follow along. It’s truly fascinating to see how you’ve utilized a laser engraver to create PCBs. This method seems incredibly useful, especially for smaller projects as ordering PCBs online often involves a minimum order of 10 or more boards, which can be quite inconvenient. The flexibility to customize and modify the board exactly as you need it and whenever you need it, is definitely a huge advantage and a real game-changer for hobbyists and small-scale projects. I was also really impressed to see you using ferric chloride, just like people did back in the day! Also I had never considered using a drill press to make holes in the PCB before. It’s a clever technique that I’ll definitely be trying out on my own projects in the future, it will make the process much easier and more precise. Thanks for sharing such valuable insights and techniques!

[@DanieleTartaglia]

Thanks for your valuable comment. I'm glad you found this video helpful

[@DanieleTartaglia]

🤣🤣🤣 ma sei tu Eleonora, non avevo visto l' avatar. Grazie ancora

[@Personnenenparle]

Hey! To draw on top of scans, you can use gimps to select colors, convert to path, use a plugin to simplify the paths, export to DNG and import into your software. Its a 10 click operation once you have it setup. I used it to turn dozens of carboard cutouts into cnc commands a couple years ago

[@enkidu9989]

now, this is exactly what i was looking for ... thank you.

[@diego.alienigena]

I love the result. I just bought a desktop engraver and I want to try it

[@SolderingTech]

Very *knowledgeable* video big bro...❤

[@DanieleTartaglia]

Thanks 😄

[@EgonSorensen]

You could also use an UV resin printer to expose the photo-resist PCB in 'one-go, as layer 1, for the required time' - and develop, etc. as usual :ø)

[@DanieleTartaglia]

Yes, I know that technique, but I don't have a resin printer.

[@EgonSorensen]

@@DanieleTartaglia :ø) I don't have a diode laser engraver, but I do have a resin printer - so I guess we have to make use of what we have. The positive side of the diode laser method is that you can use spray paint, as photo resist might be a bit hard to get hold of - and making photo sensitive pcb's using foil requires some skill/equipment, and the foil as well.

[@Fancylooks]

Oh, wow, you know the business, what a great discovery!

[@boeesen]

Great tip.

[@9h0s71n1gh7]

How wonderful! Thanks for the explanation! What software did you use to edit the board?

[@oneon18]

Hasil yang bagus

[@larsmller2253]

I thought this video was about using the laser to remove the copper, just remove paint and then just etching off the copper. This is old news just to remove the paint. I did that about five or six years ago.

[@rayherriott6517]

What software are you using? Thanks!

[@jlitagibfonseca]

Bravo!

[@gsestream]

you could use copper acetate liquid on top of a bare pcb sheet with laser engraver to burn in copper lines. yep the sheet can even be thin wood sheet. yep copper is only formed where the laser hit.

[@peplegal8253]

Any link to that process ? (I'm very curious).

[@gsestream]

@@peplegal8253 no, its just decomp of any source compound, leaving behind the metal, and laser melts and welds that to the surface

[@stevesmith-sb2df]

Pickling vinegar and hydrogen peroxide will etch the copper just slower.

[@menotu2920]

If I may ask, what software is that you are using for PCB?

[@Atelierul29]

This does not count as "PCB made with a diode laser" since the laser was used only to draw it!

[@rasmus80g]

Still chemicals... when I clicked i thought the copper could be burnt away by the laser to make this super easy 😢

[@danieletartagliafaidate]

diode laser does not remove copper, only with fiber laser. I made a video about it.

[@dr.ignacioglez.9677]

​@@danieletartagliafaidate If you paint the copper black, is the laser still unable to cut it? (Black-painted aluminum can be cut by the laser)

[@ing.saulabellog.2191]

Yo can use a CNC drilling for that, just adjust the drill bit to the high that take out the copper.

[@SirRonmit]

Yeah, me too. I did this last year myself but prefer to use the ol' "Laser Toner" method as it is MUCH faster than using my Diode Laser -- but the Diode Laser method is very clean. But, yes, both still require chemicals to etch :( I wanted a nice laser, but could only grab a 20W diode to play with. Wishing now that I did opt for the more expensive lasers for the things I really want to do. But wood, and slate turn out awesome, otherwise with my 20W Diode.

[@michaelnoardo3315]

the same, if we still have to use chemicals, transfer from laser printer is the easy way

[@v.8995]

What's the interest to keep bath and drilling phase when you can directly remove copper and drill with the laser ?

[@RodolfoStanic]

It depends a lot on the laser power, not all laser modules have enough wattage for cutting. I think he wanted to show what is possible with 4W.

[@MrGio652]

Ciao, I tuoi video sono semplicemente fantastici, mi sono iscritto pochi istanti fa al tuo canale e avrei da porti una domanda: cosa ne pensi dell' Atomstack Pro 20W del costo di euro 499,00 per la realizzazione di circuiti stampati? Può bastare per il lavoro che mi accingo a fare? Ti confesso che non sono molto esperto. Vorrei gentilmente un parere. Grazie Giovanni

[@denissilvaBR]

3:59 Congratulations on the work and for sharing the idea with us! Please be aware of the 'dangers' of using ferric chloride near metals, such as the engraver itself and your workbench. Even its vapors will (over time) corrode everything around, besides staining, dirtying, etc. If possible, use PPE (gloves, goggles) and work in well-ventilated environments, as our health and safety are fundamental. Best regards! 3:59 Congratulazioni per il lavoro e per aver condiviso l'idea con noi! Si prega di essere consapevoli dei 'pericoli' dell'uso del cloruro ferrico vicino ai metalli, come l'incisore stesso e il vostro banco da lavoro. Anche i suoi vapori corroderanno (nel tempo) tutto intorno, oltre a macchiare, sporcare, ecc. Se possibile, utilizzare DPI (guanti, occhiali) e lavorare in ambienti ben ventilati, poiché la nostra salute e sicurezza sono fondamentali. Un abbraccio!

[@DanieleTartaglia]

Grazie mille per la tua segnalazione e spiegazione della pericolosità di questo acido.

[@marinamarinx7655]

Easier is to use a Resin Printer. But with a Mopa Fiber Laser you can make the complete pcb with holes

[@siriusleto3758]

Great

[@jakariasbulldozer9086]

I use 2040cnc to made testing PCB, Drill also,

[@eraldylli]

That's great, however I was hoping this would bypass the need for ferric acid. Still, better than laser printing the traces and ironing the paper over the copper.

[@DanieleTartaglia]

Unfortunately it is not possible, I made this video to demonstrate that the diode laser cannot remove copper. I made a video with the fiber laser engraver and I did not use any chemical components. The fiber laser is perfect for making printed circuit boards, but it has a very big limitation: The very small working area.

[@eraldylli]

@@DanieleTartaglia Looking forward to the video of fiber laser.

[@miroslawkaras7710]

You shoud the ebfriver in some air tight box with vent outside or filter or both. The fumes are not goosd for your heath.

[@michaelmuller4123]

why not lasering at 60-100% all the holes?

[@EasyOne]

nice

[@bartconinckx]

what's incredible about a 4W diode laser removing paint?

[@WolmirMattardaSilva]

ei Danielle, pode passar os tamanhos que usou para desenhar os furos no software? in 0:50

[@chuckvoss9344]

Does anyone know how much power is required to burn holes through the PCB. That would eliminate the need of the drill press, and really speed up the process.

[@BENZO_RSK]

Print for example quantum board led

[@DanieleTartaglia]

I don't think I can do it with these low cost pcb

[@tcurdt]

Call me sceptical but my laser did not remove the paint like that. I fear this is missing some important details.

[@SirRonmit]

That is why you need to learn your software/laser and perform the tests. You need enough power to "burn" through the paint, but not too hot to melt the copper or cause some radical melting like I did seeing how much power my 20W could put out.

[@tcurdt]

@@SirRonmit Who said I didn't perform tests? I still think it would be valuable to share which paint worked. Melting the copper? Now that I want to see.

[@zapanjormas4787]

this same technic is used in canvas /glass/aluminium engraving, and it work like a charme on my PHECDA. But before all, you should use test grid to get the correct speed / power.

[@DanieleTartaglia]

SEI ITALIANO? Allora guarda il video nel canale italiano, è tutto spiegato: kzbin.info/www/bejne/m6W1o2WOiMugrKc

[@aaronsastronomy9236]

The handling of the ferric acid though, spilling all over and no gloves.

[@zhizulkyuuroku96]

Whats name the software bro?

[@amemo06]

lightburn

[@bbogdanmircea]

How is this better than just ordering at JLPCB or toner transfer method?

[@DanieleTartaglia]

It is not better, but it allows you to have a real circuit in a few hours. If you have to make only one piece it is better to do it this way. if you want to have many circuits and you do not have a lot, jlcpcb is a better and professional alternative and zero effort

[@slincolne]

How is it better - Well, for a start you don't need to order a minimum of 5 boards (as you do with JLPCB), you don't need to wait 10 days for them to turn up (as you do with JLPCB), you don't have the problems of the toner transfer not fully transferring to the paper. I'd suggest giving it a shot - this is a nice way to get a clean board for etching without missing bits or gaps.

[@SirRonmit]

Not "better" .. Not "faster" .. but more detailed than the toner transfer method which is what I do for one-off boards I need.

[@djix030]

I prefere to buy 5 boards at JLPCB because I Can chose the color red yellow blue or black my favorite 😮😊😊😂

[@Tuxon86]

@@djix030you can use any color spray paint. You don’t remove it after the ferric bath, you spray lacquer on it, then use the laser to reveal the solder pad. The paint and lacquer becomes your solder mask. It’s also possible to create double sided board with a jig.

[@Repairing.7]

Pdf file upload sir

[@igiigiint]

con il stampante non e' piu' facile?

[@danieletartagliafaidate]

stampante? come fai a stampare su una basetta ramata?

[@igiigiint]

@@danieletartagliafaidate sulla carta

[@igiigiint]

@@danieletartagliafaidate kzbin.info/www/bejne/hmqlmJybl6aSh5osi=ILHGkFYcPKPWCzLl

[@Coyote27981]

That engraver is overkill for making PCBs with the paint method. You can do that with way smaller diodes 1500-2000mw are good enough. You should try applying solder mask, then evaporating only the contact pads for solder. Actually given you got enough power, i wonder if you could actually cut the core ... it would be nice for holes and weird shaped PCBs

[@silvanomanocchio9985]

Da quello che so' io non si rimette mai nella bottiglia l 'acido cloruro ferrico gia' utilizzato.

[@DanieleTartaglia]

Lo facevo negli anni, se è poco non succede nulla. Nel video nel canale italiano ho spiegato il perchè.

[@AlexStark80]

Acid is already the last century and is quite dirty. Have you tried hydrogen peroxide and citric acid?

[@DanieleTartaglia]

No, I haven't tried it but many have recommended it to me

[@AlexStark80]

@@DanieleTartaglia A very good method, and most importantly clean.

[@renelefebvre53]

Any interest. Too time long. You can make this with a laser printer. It just for small pcb, with only one face and no métallisé holes. Now, I make my pcb with jlcpcb or other chinese factory.

[@DirkJMartens]

Nice result ... but the title is very misleading ... in the previous (fiber) laser video, you really "made a PCB" ... but here, you used a diode laser to create or transfer a PCB image into a painted copper board ... after that, an etching step is needed to really "make a PCB" ... important but critical difference. Would also be interesting if you can do comparison tests and see how far direct fiber-laser and diode-laser can be pushed ... with narrowest trace width and narrowest trace separation being the most important parameters ... the circuit design you chose was nice but nowhere near pushing the boundaries.

[@SirRonmit]

I would prefer the ol' Laser Printer Toner Transfer for speed, but the DIODE make for some really nice lines. But, yes, still require chemicals - but not bad if you are only doing a few boards.

[@Евгений-ъ9й2э]

Отстой! Такие платы, в 90-х годах, рисовали вручную рейсфедером! Покажи изготовление двухсторонней платы на СМД компонентах!

[@josealfredoroque6800]

Mala relación! Costo-Beneficio . Muy caro y al final de todas formas se usa el ácido . A menos de que ya se tenga la CNC y el láser para otras actividades

[@ixilom]

I do not get it, why was the acid used? I mean, could you not just engraved away all the unneeded copper?

[@DanieleTartaglia]

The diode laser has no effect on Copper, Aluminum, Bronze etc and you will not be able to remove it. Even if it were possible, once it penetrates the copper layer, it will burn the fiberglass of the board. I demonstrated this technique in the previous video with a fiber laser. The diode laser is very limited, it only cuts steel.

[@ixilom]

@@DanieleTartaglia Thanks for the explanation 🙂

[@mpelagio-engenharia]

Tooooo slow process...

[@xavierayayaell546]

How to etch PCBs - now with extra steps

[@kurtosbrasil2556]

Same as revealing with UV. Useless

[@shoumikahmed6373]

Is he stupid? In the title it says 4w but he used 20w.... It is not possible to engrave this fast with 4w laser....

[@DanieleTartaglia]

20w is the maximum power of the laser diode. I used a very low power. The title is just for demonstration. You can do it with 10W by increasing the power to get the same speed.

[@DigiLab360]

No he’s not the stupid one. It’s pretty straightforward if you understand how laser engravers work.

[@shoumikahmed6373]

@@DigiLab360 Bro Do you have one? I have one. with 5.5w blue diode laser. I regularly make PCB with it and made my last PCB two days ago. With 5.5w 100% power and max speed 800mm per min It needs 2 passes. With 4w and 1000mm per min, what setting he used in this video, it will not engrave enough on the spray painted PCB to etch properly. Either he used more power than 4w or his 20% power out of 20w laser diode is more powerful than a 5.5w laser. There is a big difference in input power and optical output power.So his title is misleading. By the way he always uses fake thumbnails.

[@jtreg]

please please please do not use music. Why do people imagine that everyone shares their tastes? It really really makes it hard to subscribe to your channel, pity because you do interesting projects. Unsubscribing now, bye!

[@DanieleTartaglia]

Bye

[@hanhtoozaw8588]

is that channel was 3d printer laser channel??🫤

[@nibiru3675]

bravo boomer.