Building the Best Damn GMC Motorhome Ever - Body & Roof Work

[@thomasgreen1688]

This isn’t going to end well I’m afraid.

[@IndustriousPursuits]

You may be right Thomas. I can't predict the future, but I have completed a conversion van build myself way back in 2002, and I watched my Dad convert a flat bed international into a "house truck" when I was 5. Then he turned a school bus into a double decker (sleeping on the top floor) "schoolie" when I was 8. Then I got to help him build a custom camper on the back of a Chevy Crew-cab dually pickup when I was a teenager. I know how these projects go. Let's not forget that I worked as a construction laborer in my 20's framing houses and doing commercial finish carpentry before getting my master's in Architecture in my 30's. I wouldn't bet on me failing to get it done. How fast it happens. The real issue is how long it's going to take me.

[@metalwaves4154]

@@IndustriousPursuits bro your time. Your build your money now your roof leaks add a coat of spray can flexseal on the roof it works great i had to use it on my work trailers and box truck roofs

[@Mrcaffinebean]

Thomas Green what kind of person leaves a comment like that? You must be fun at parties.

[@arthurharmon9150]

I work for Cooperative Motor Works we customize in restoring GMC from top to bottom in Orlando Florida

[@marcryvon]

@@IndustriousPursuits Nah, don't waste your time with this Green guy, he's not worth it. There's always some sour piss on every vlog I follow. You do good man. Keep it up !! 👍 It will be awesome ! BTW, what app are you using for your 3D drafting ??

[@briancalvery5704]

One of the best features of the GMC motorhome is the visibility you have from the interior. No traditional/modern RV can compare! The reason to have an RV is to take it to camp in beautiful places, and getting to wake up to amazing scenes outside your window is the best part. With windows on 3 sides you really can't have a bad camping spot, if you back into a beautiful view you won't even get to enjoy it.

[@theworldoftheunreal.5488]

The whole open feeling when you walk in and spend time in the motorhome will be gone once you remove the rear window. I own one of these, a 76 and lived in it for 6.5 years continuously full time. The rear window is the only reason all those modules in the rear end don't destroy the open look with that floor plan. There are too many windows in rear room, I have the same floor plan in mine. But that rear window is a must have really for the feeling. I guess it depends on how much the feeling is the priority for you. If you've already removed it since this video, well sorry for my too late comment ! Enjoying your videos, thanks! Great work you are doing.

[@jasong70]

I have no ambition to restore a GMC motorhome, but I really enjoy watching this. Keep posting your videos!

[@IndustriousPursuits]

I will, thank you!

[@AlexSack]

Rock. Thank you! For your work, and with your details on solutions! Good stuff.

[@walterbright1396]

Thanks for posting. I like that eraser wheel. Didn’t know they existed. Going to follow along closely what you have done with your project. 76 Glenbrook

[@jockosboy17]

EternaBond tape is your friend for all your roof seams!!!! I can't stress that enough. Great RV and videos!!

[@albertcassler8763]

Nice rig...I have a 77 Palm Beach. Like you I'm fixing it up. Please note that the rear window is made as an emergency exit, and it has a pull ring for in case you need to get out. I don't see any problems with replacing the glass with a panel of other material, but it still needs to function as an emergency hatch for safety concerns. Check with your state laws before making modifications. I think these big Windows are a privacy issue and they let in a lot of heat in the hot summer and cold in the winter. Good luck in your build. Also the drip rail molding that runs front to back on both sides can be a source of water leaks. Removing them can be a pain when the screws heads break off. Scraping out the old sealer and in with the new can take a few days even in good weather. The Windows can leak around the outside edges. I used expanding foam insulation to tighten them up without removing and resealing At the factory, they made quick work of spraying the insulation in my interior. It was supposed to be at least 3/4 inch thick. Mine was barely covered in most places of the walls and ceiling. As far as the floor, I only had to replace the very back area with 3/4 plywood. A urithan rubber coating from a gallon can spread with a paint brush was used for making it water and air leak tight. Also I sealed up the air leak under the wet bath with expanding foam and replaced the toilet with a composting toilet.

[@albertcassler8763]

@@groovy1937 to lower cost....also to make as many as possible. Mine is a 77 Palm Beach and they use the hell out of spray foam in new building including on the wiring except inside electric boxes. They made excuses to cheapen so to boost profit....the bottom line. I've seen many GMC videos were the owners have taken out everything inside so don't give me that B.S.

[@albertcassler8763]

@@groovy1937 I have experience at working for a major auto manufacturer and I can tell you that they do cut corners to cut costs. Especially at GM if they can save a quarter of a cent, they will find a way. Running changes during a model year is ever ending. And many from the the corporate snake pit are so very manipulative when it comes to climbing the ladder. I wouldn't put it past them to come up with a book on cheating the American consumers and even going as far to have such a document printed to glorify their existence in the mid to upper management for a promotion. In the U.S. ARMY, there was a saying,' you f'cked up, you move up...so whatever their reasons for scriming on insulation, it was to their advantage and not the consumer....take that to the bank when it comes to quality control, they don't check each and everyone coming down the line and if you have a good repore with your supervisor, you can get away with murder....Ive seen some shit in my day, just saying

[@albertcassler8763]

@@groovy1937 As I stated the expanding spray foam in the GMC I own was less than the 3/4 inch in most places in the ceilings and walls compared to others I saw on KZbin. In my case the insulation was less than 1/4 in many areas. It's not my place to tell you the documents or publication are faulty. I appreciate your comments. The main reason was to inform other's about my GMC and how I went about it. Sharing information to others about the same issues is always a good thing.. The factory workers in the Assembly plants are just like the same people that worked in factories in early America. The boss's made them stressed so they could get more work out of them. And in fact a boss would talk to a young black man just hired and point out to him an older man was not working near as hard and was paid more for the same job. This was how prejudice got started in this country. But yes they have moral problems that effect production. Like Timothy Leary said back in the 60s, "turn on, tune out", and that was how they cope with factory work.

[@TheGazaMethodChannel]

Wow. Way smart guy. Wish you were my neighbor! Great stuff Great references.

[@simpsonburns8822]

Sending blessings from England keep up the good work

[@allanllewellyn4399]

Don’t remove the window! We love ours! Setting in bed and looking outside is wonderful.

[@denisemyers6114]

i put a smaller egress window in mine

[@chillenchilla4]

as a sign fabricator and installer we use things like var-sol to loosen the glue so that the vynel pulls off try a corner with varsol

[@simplemanduke7128]

Epic undertaking Sir. I look forward to the outcome.

[@captaincobb8146]

I ran across this video in random surfing... Glad I did. This is actually the second one I watched, and I'm impressed with your knowledge. So I Subscribed and hit the Notifications Bell for all.

[@justendaniel9797]

I've seen a couple of these GMC Motorhomes but never knew anything about them. After watching your videos, I like them a lot and am very interested in learning more about them. Keep up the great work and great videos. Thanks.

[@caddyzig]

Thanks for the update and the tip on the eraser wheel. What a cool device! Thanks for posting your experiences and discoveries.

[@carportchronicles1943]

Thank you for letting us know about the eraser wheel. That is a very slick product!

[@vinmarz]

My dad got me a Hess edition toy truck for Christmas back in 1981. That was my favorite toy for many years.

[@stebro2738]

A small amount of customization on a 70"s classic GMC motorhome is to be tolerated (You asked for it... you ARE on KZbin after all!!) PLEASE, leave the rear window. You'll never know what you've missed (as Allan below has noted) until you've spent a night on a mountain, rear end facing over the edge and watched the storm come in. PRICELESS!!!! And totally UNFORGETTABLE. Do change things tastefully, with ALL the respect due the original engineers. GM, sadly has a history of throwing away soo many of the engineers great ideas, from the skylark aluminum v-8 (that was eventually perfected by ... hard to believe.. British Leyland and is still powering Range Rovers 40 years later, the front engine/rear trans tempest 326 v_8 (that probably became the c-5 Corvette many years later), the 70's Pontiac tempest dual overhead cam 6.. that was 20 years ahead of it's time, the GM EV-1..(too advanced.. the oil companies I'm sure were not pleased.. so they CRUSHED all of them.. even tho all the lessees LOVED them) & the list goes on. This motorhome s one of the engineers triumphs.. As much as possible, please keep it original...

[@gitchegumee]

Hate to be critical about your bodywork, but... You are going to end up repainting this RV - there is no way to avoid it. Now is the time to strip off anything un-necessary or needing updating - like those atrocious running/marker lights and awning. Fill in the holes and for the lights, source out some new low profile LED versions - less juice and brighter. When using the seam sealer - use painter's tape to mark the edge of the top panel and set back the tape on a line a 1/4" back on the lower panel before applying a very warm sealer (applies easier when warm). After its applied, pull the tape for a nice clean, smooth joint instead of that gloppy mess. You have a wonderful vehicle that deserves to be brought up to date, don't ruin it with backyard repairs.

[@danielauen7790]

I think he likes the "atrocious" running/marker lights, Judging buy the fact he 3d printed new "lenses" for the ones on the front. and if we is worried about power he could relativly easily throw some leds into the exsisting lights.

[@Maples01]

Absolutely, do it right.

[@natester1064]

Awesome work! It's going great.

[@stalbertjocelyn]

Don't forget to reseal your clearance lights, the wires are trough the roof as well. Love that you are saving one of those road Wales! Good luck.

[@70s80sVintage]

I love that you are doing this!

[@rogerjohnson378]

My favorite motorhome, please keep making videos.

[@notimportant5205]

Thanks for the journey. I've been researching these GMC coaches for some time now. Big fan of the Tornado drive train... I have not watched all of your videos yet, my apology if your already hip to this rear suspension upgrade. In my opinion, if your building the best damn GMC you need the quad bag upgrade offered by the GMC Cooperative. You should watch all of his videos on restoring these beautiful coaches. He addresses all of the shortcomings of the proposed 14year life span the original engineering was meant to serve. One of these rainy days here in WA I'll get caught upon the rest of your series.

[@williamunderhill2009]

I've been watching all of your videos so far, and I hope you keep on making them. I'll definitely give you a shout-out on my FB feed, but that's about it for my social media. I am enjoying the videos, as I intend to be a GMCMH owner myself in the not-to-distant future. I also find your discussions of 3D printing quite interesting as well; I had the impression it was about as involved as putting paper in a regular printer; I had no idea it was so finicky. Thanks again, and I look forward to seeing your finished motorhome!

[@pincus321]

It is great that you are recovering a worthwhile project I hope it is not long before you get to enjoy it

[@ollysweets]

Nice documentation. And right on time, as I'll have to tackle the seams on one of my coaches as well. A guy from Denmark closed out the rear window similar to your proposal, and like it quite a bit. I on the other hand like the big view out the back, especially when parking in a nice spot and the back is overlooking a valley, the ocean, a lake, whatever. Keep on going!

[@doug.newton]

Here's hoping you forget the crazy idea to remove any windows 👌

[@jameshenneberg1937]

DONT ditch that back window! You'll regret it later

[@dlarremore]

Yes, please!. Cannot stress enough. Leave the back window! Its the best feature

[@keith455]

Leave the back window. When your out camping backed up to water you'll love it.

[@dadtube1936]

Nice score on the recliners. I have 3 in my Transit van - they are awesome.

[@Shwalker07]

Amazing progress. Please keep them GMC Motorhome videos coming...

[@Dnice1541]

Dude - Kenipex pliers and the eraser wheel - two things I have never heard of but are now in my tool box - mindblowingly useful - the kinds of tips l love getting on you tube - been working with tools forever and have not heard on them... thank you!

[@duanethieme4186]

Great explanation on SMC,.. how to tell SMC from fiberglass,.......SMC is smooth on both sides due to the two mold , heat and pressure to make part. Fiberglass is smooth on one side, it only needs one mold. For a clean look , put masking tape on both sides, lay down a bead, use a plastic spreader smooth it out the remove tape right after. One of the best types of non hardening seam sealer is urethane seam sealer, comes in at least white and gray. It may need paint over the urethane seam sealer to keep the sun light from breaking it down.

[@DWDinAtlanta]

I love watching these types of videos. I'm not a big DIYer but will try some easier things. Hubby isn't handy so I learn what I can. If I can't do it, at least I can tell someone what I want and they don't try to take advantage if they think I know what I'm talking about. LOL We have a newer Class A that may one day need the same type work.

[@bjfoster1564]

I don't know about you but I hate all the naysayers and negative comments! Yes this may be KZbin, but it is your RV and your project, so do it the way you want it done and within your budget. If you want to take the window out, take it out! So the paints not perfect, who cares. Nothing in this life is perfect, just make sure your happy with the final product and let the rest of the world take a flying leap at a rolling doughnut! By the way, I am current Revcon owner.

[@oblioarrow567]

Oh my God! Yours is one of the best renovation videos I've ever seen. I will be watching all of them. I don't belong to any social media and I wish I could help you out in that respect. But I give you my undivided attention on your videos.

[@thewanderingisraelite]

I have two of these motor homes. One for 6 grand, and the other for $400.. I like them to be like old wives.., may look bad, but run good.., all warm and cozy..!

[@iadc43]

12:25 NOOOOOOO!!!! Keep the window. Make curtains, install an opaque film, make a panel on the inside until you decide you hate it. make a bumper mounted bike rack for the bikes.

[@logandarklighter]

I tend to agree. Leaving the window in place gives you more options than removing it. Go ahead and black-out curtain it. Or maybe use your 3d Printing skills to make a cover for it that can be fitted from the inside. But don't just remove it. Imagine being able to wake up in the back country to a beautiful view that you can access by just unblocking the window from your bed! I do think the rear-view camera is a good idea though.

[@moralchrtr]

Why did he buy this if he's just going to remove all the things that make it special...

[@asailorandhisdogslyknight5391]

You do have a project and the end result should be to your liking. I saw a Pace Arrow in Lethbridge Alberta I was thinking about buying, I think the 80's motor homes are built better out of real material. I'll be watching your progress. Happy building

[@mountain.1]

i very like these videos

[@Mrcaffinebean]

Looking forward to seeing more of this! Great series

[@DansFFR]

Love the videos, and really would love to buy one myself and rebuild one as well. However, I’m not in a good position and financially set to do it right now. Thanks for sharing!

[@jjustj]

good luck, cant find his site, but guy in fla covers all the must dos for getting that rig viable!

[@jacksonwbrisbane]

We need more videos! This stuff is great!

[@melissabenson6749]

NO don’t take out the back window, that’s for looking at beautiful views in nature! They have thermal window covers, use a large lockable storage container for the roof!!👍🏻👍🏻

[@javabean252]

I loved those back in 70s when I was a kid. Especially when starred in stripes the movie. I’ve been trying to convince the wife it’s a worthy project. ;) following closely.

[@russelbaird5499]

If it was. mine I would keep the window . Check with your local RV store for the best stuff for your joints . Best of luck with your project .

[@MrJerobona]

Thanks for this great video ! And the advise on the eraser wheel, love that one, will start on my stripes soon !

[@IndustriousPursuits]

It is easier to use on the aluminum sections of the exterior. I found myself removing chunks of paint on the fiberglass sections if I wasn't careful. Don't get the paint too hot when working on the fiberglass sections.

[@MrJerobona]

@@IndustriousPursuits Thank you so much !

[@setag54321]

Thanks for posting! Caulking/Sealing Tips : Use Blue Painters tape to create perfectly straight lines, which allow you to smooth & press the sealant deep into the crevices without the worry of making a mess. Always use rubber gloves to prevent Cancer (FDA & EPA are CORRUPT SHILLS)...after you press the sealant deep into the crevice, next wet your glove or use a 50/50 denatured alcohol/water mix and smooth over your final bead, for a professional smooth finish and then immediately pull up the blue tape to reveal a perfectly straight clean smudge free finish ANY Professional Caulker would be proud of. Keep the videos coming, enjoying the journey Brother..Peace.

[@herbhall3830]

When applying the seam sealer you can run a strip of painters tapes on both side of crack to be filled and it gives a very nice clean crisp edge just remove tape before it sets up! And they make sealer that can be painted to hide it even more!

[@chefsotero]

Had you considered the forces on the driver seat mounts? With the 3 points seatbelts in a accident you would put extra torque on it.

[@jeffcollins96]

They have professional seat repair companies that can dye your seats & match them perfectly. Also if you pressurize the inside with a fan you can use soapy water to locate your leaks.

[@jaxsonme]

Did no-one else catch "This seam sealer is as simple as it seems" ?

[@tomjoad1363]

I can seee the glue from the glass of the windshield is losing its transparency. Are those glass stil available? IS the back sheet from the abandonned RV still fresh ? YOu could do your experiment on the brownish panel and keep the green one in storage in case you change your mind.

[@IndustriousPursuits]

Yes. There is a Motorhome glass specialist in Coburg Oregon where I will be going to get mine replaced. Also at the GMC rallies around the country they typically have windshield replacement happening.

[@bd5av8r1]

GMC designed that window to be a "kick out" for an emergency exit in the event you need to get out in an emergency. Keep that in mind with your design idea. :)

[@jameshenneberg1937]

For that plastic panel door, get a 2ft wide piece of aluminum 1inx1in angle (similar to angle iron), and drill holes through the door and the aluminum piece, then rivet the aluminum piece on the inside of the door. Make sure that the rivets have large heads for support on the outside. The 90 degree angle of the aluminum strip will hold the door straight

[@robkirk6568]

The rear window on mine is the emergency exit.

[@normanhenderson136]

I'm interested in your rear window. I have the stock blank panel and weather strip in mine and would like a window. I would also be interested in your awning. I'm also in Portland.

[@IndustriousPursuits]

Norm, If you click on my channel name here above this comment, you will see a screen that has tabs at the top. The far right tab is "About." Click on that, and you will be able to view my email address. Please send me an email about this proposal. I'm assuming that you have the layout which came with the bathroom in the back?

[@lawrenceholtgrieve6762]

Will there be any new GMC videos coming soon? I hope so. I enjoy watching you work as well as listening to your explanations. Thanks.

[@IndustriousPursuits]

Yes. More are coming. The latest one was released ~10 days ago, and a new one is being filmed. Here is the playlist:kzbin.info/aero/PLgkFf_pITyc50x8sgRI0QneQeIbgg19Tg

[@azimmey]

That is a ruff one you got there.

[@rickboretirementplan]

Man, I like to work on my Motorhome but you have a big job ahead of you. But I will be watching.

[@PainterFRO]

Next time use a good autobody masking tape (not blue painters tape) to tape up the area where you used the seam sealer for much cleaner finish. You can also use some wax and grease remover or thinner and wet your fingers with a glove on and use it to smooth the edges out. Cool build.

[@jamesbond9873]

Keep the videos coming.

[@IndustriousPursuits]

I'm on it. Making a new one yesterday and today.

[@jamesbond9873]

The Digital Maker can’t wait always loved these motor homes. Also I like the way you explain everything. Thanks

[@carenk.5442]

Great work! Could you please post a link to where you purchased the pliers from?

[@IndustriousPursuits]

They are on Ebay and Amazon. Just look for "Knipex 86 03 250" They have different sizes. I used the largest size in the video.

[@stevest.martin3940]

Your going to have a cool RV when your done. I wish I was handy I would buy one instead of my Tiffin Phaeton. Keep the window why fix something that not broken.

[@agentofficerthomasa.porter107]

YOu have by this time done the roof. I use Marine Roof Sealant Paint & do 3 coats. Let drive several days each coat. Oh ya anywhere there are seams you want to take out & clean like new or you will have leaks. Let me guess, by the time you have totally restored this, your kids will be grown up. LOL🤣You & yours drive to their graduations. Restoring back to not & gut'n out & buiding new & using all teh same this GMC has moves along so much better. Restore to your needs not to show to others. It's your private home. I will never understand people that think they have to show the inside of every stranger that wants to see the inside. Sorry, I am on the road & it's my home & not into strangers thinking they have a right to go inside to see. just tell them ya got a Dog & is very protective. That will narrow down their inquiring eyes needs in real time. 😁OMG you have a Tesla? My deepest sympathies. They are Junk cars. They catch fire & self driving kill driver & other human lives.

[@denisemyers6114]

you,re a very smart man just like me 'we figure shit out.Great video i learned a lot thank you.

[@rivenmotors7981]

When replacing those plywood pieces or really anything subject to possible water exposure, applying redgard seems to be a good preventative addition.

[@jerrypalmer1370]

I just spotted one of those sitting in a yard in Pahrump Nevada

[@joecrockett7993]

What did you get the seats out of? Looking for a set for my 75 Eleganza

[@jth1987leb]

You should order a oem rear view mirror that uses a back up camera. You’ll keep the look with a rear view mirror, not have a screen on the dashboard and a cool look. I think Subaru and Cadillac have rear view mirrors that use a back up camera. Keep on eye out on eBay.

[@slackjaw703]

I’d use a tilt up bed if you want to utilize storage underneath it w/o having to use a drawer that obviously won’t fit. Huge mistake removing the rear window as well. Leave it! I would’ve left the awning as well, but it’s too late for that I guess.

[@alzathoth]

I live in the Canadian north. any thoughts on winterizing? I am thinking of buying a gmc, but am concerned about the plumbing and tanks freezing...

[@mgreg8134]

Every motor home should have a lowest point drain to drain all of your plumbing. open all of your faucets then open your drain valve and drain all of the water out of the system. Make sure to also drain your fresh water tank if you have it filled. Any water left in the system when it freezes will create catastrophic results. My motor home the previous owner forgot to empty the water lines one winter, while the Pex plumbing didn't break some of the ASB plastic did.

[@cbmirada]

If you aren't using the awning, why not remove the awning mount from the top of RV? It would leave cleaner lines for new paint job.

[@IndustriousPursuits]

That piece of trim that goes the length of the motorhome is actually covering the seam between the roof and the sides. There was another long aluminum strip which sat above the current trim piece. This strip attached to the awning that got removed, and I now have the screw holes left over from that to contend with.

[@SHOdown13]

Contact your local new/used car dealer, ask them who they use for interior repairs on their cars. They usually have a guy on call for redyeing and repairing leather seats and dashes.

[@FBPrepping]

Dude..."Different thermal expansion coefficient" what do you think we are? Materials Engineers? (which I am, indeed) but...dang, it´s a real pleasure to hear you talking like that LOL. Great job. It´s lovely to see how much you´re enjoying your work. By the way, that aluminum cap missing in that upper rear corner in 17:08 could be 3D printed as well, don´t you think?

[@IndustriousPursuits]

Great minds think alike. The only trouble will be modeling it for printing. I'm going to take the one off the other side and mirror image it.

[@chvydrvr]

Keep the window in the back. Fun fact: "Eidechse" is German and translates to "lizard".

[@seanwhite5244]

Transverse front wheel drive motor home. Left and right pivoting rear wheels.. Probably found the rear tires skidding when trying to stop. There is a control arm kit that can be purchased which will, as best as it can, eliminate the forward roll on the the rear tires. Also a disc brake conversion. Also means having to swap master cylinder. Em-50 UAV. Heh.

[@josephheston9238]

It's not transverse. It's longitudinally mounted with a transmission that's mounted right next to the engine and the torque convertor is separated from the transmission. It's the same setup as the Olds Toronado.

[@seanwhite5244]

@@josephheston9238 Mm.. When you're right. Trans axle** front wheel drive.

[@jameshenneberg1937]

Have you considered Flex-tape as an additional measure along the roof seals?

[@francistheodorecatte]

the flex tape my dad put on his RV didn't even last a year before it all wrinkled up and started leaking again. getting it all off was a nightmare.

[@do.it.better]

I really appreciate your videos. I too am in the process of restoring my 76 Eleganza II. It would be helpful to me if you would list the products you use in your video. I could not make out the seam sealer that you used. I also wonder is it paintable or available in other colors than black. Are you going to paint the coach? If so are you having it professionally painted or are doing this yourself. Much thanks

[@IndustriousPursuits]

There are many brands of "seam sealer." I got this one next day delivered to my local auto-parts store, and it was kind of a PITA. If I was going to do it again, I would just buy whatever is convenient online (ebay or Amazon). All the brands seem to be sandable and paintable. I haven't figured out the paint problem yet. Finding a paint shop with a large enough spray booth is challenging. There is a guy down in Eugene OR that wants to charge me $20,000, but he wants to do all the work. My local Maaco shop says $1,500 just to spray it, but they would not be able to paint the roof because the ceiling in their shop is too short. For a minute I considered spraying the whole thing with Truck Bed liner. I might end up painting the thing in my driveway. We all know how that would turn out, so I'm not liking that idea, but it is an option.

[@do.it.better]

The Digital Maker I’ve looked into a few body shops around me and they too have the same problem but they said they could do sides front and back for $5K. I did find a truck shop that will do it but they want $11K for a 2 tone paint job. Will there be any problem going over the Iron paint?

[@do.it.better]

How are you going to repair the cracks in the plastic headliners in the front and the back? Did I hear that you plan to paint them? Just Kryon Plastic Paint?

[@groovy1937]

I highly recommend Lexel sealant: www.sashco.com/products/lexel/

[@timothysmith5769]

I hope you've decided to keep the rear window or at the very least be able to put it back in if you change your mind. I would think that your best under-bed storage option would be to gain access by lifting (tilting) up the bed. Hope your project is a complete success!

[@reginarassi4169]

How does the motor home run? And how many miles per gallon?

[@IndustriousPursuits]

Mine runs fine. Easy to flood the carburetor on startup. Once started no issues. Some choose to install aftermarket EFI. Others do a full diesel conversion. Stock setup is about 10MPG.

[@mikemiller9119]

Looked at one just like it. So I’m curious if it’s the one. Did you find it in Florida or somewhere else.

[@IndustriousPursuits]

Northern Washington State.

[@SianaGearz]

If the fibreglass contains a release agent on the surface before it has been moulded, then how do they paint it? Chances are, the release agent is stripped away first.

[@IndustriousPursuits]

0.7% (by weight) of the resin/fiberglass mixture is release agent. It's not on the surface it is distributed throughout. As you sand into the fiberglass you are activating more release agent: www.sciencedirect.com/topics/engineering/sheet-moulding-compound

[@douglasthompson2740]

Did you try 3m's special vinyl, bumpersticker remover? Been around quite a long time and it might help you if you haven't already finished it with the eraser wheel (hadn't seen that before).

[@kalimistical6300]

When using PU seam sealer in the future buy some solvent panel wipe and wet your golves with it and you can smooth down the sealer and work it a lot easier!!

[@72hourbob61]

I have a Revcon setting out front I bought from NASA a few years back. Some day I will work on it.

[@jimaagenes8445]

72+HourBOB what is the drivetrain like? Same the GMC, front wheel drive?

[@72hourbob61]

@@jimaagenes8445 Yes, Front wheel drive 455 its a Pre GMC

[@johntripp2028]

Keep the rear window

[@Hillbilly80808]

If you close your eyes it’s like Doug Benson made this video.

[@CH-tu4mm]

Where you been? No updates since September. Hope all is well.

[@AB-hx9hs]

Hi, would Window and Door Silicone Sealant work for the roof or is it not flexible enough ?? Thank you.

[@IndustriousPursuits]

Probably. There are many RV roofing sealing solutions which are probably superior to silicone. I chose the Seam Sealant because it was what was originally used and also because it is sandable and paintable.

[@AB-hx9hs]

@@IndustriousPursuits I ask because I already have bunch of these other sealers rather than buying more sealants...if they work that is. Thanks.

[@AB-hx9hs]

@@IndustriousPursuits I ask because I already have bunch of these other sealers rather than buying more sealants...if they work that is. Thanks.

[@luckystriker7489]

It's yours to do with as you please, of course. But I'd keep the rear window. Also, how about restoring the exterior to original, but modifying the interior all you want to suit your needs

[@mgreg8134]

Look on eBay and buy some Eternabond tape for all of your seams. It is expensive but you should never have to seal the seams again. I did it on my 83 Holiday Rambler and sealed up every leak it had.

[@Highqman1974]

Please dont screw up that classic motorhome. You dont buy those to modify, you restore them.

[@MrDrewthat]

Ah....your opinion!!

[@PainterFRO]

You actually buy it and do whatever it is you want to do with it..Not what someone else thinks you should do.

[@roncruz6517]

Let's keep it simple. Do not remove the rear window.

[@badlarry172]

just subbed interesting stuff thanks

[@TheRedskins1111]

Raptor line it 😉

[@IndustriousPursuits]

I'm seriously thinking of it. Either that or I might "dip it." Either way, I'm going to have to do it in the cul-de-sac in front of my house. Hopefully the Neighbors will be cool with that. I can't find a building large and tall enough where I can paint the thing indoors.

[@TheRedskins1111]

@@IndustriousPursuits I wouldn't dip it, that stuff is a mess, I just raptor lined my 94 Silverado and it looks and works great. Just have to do a good prep plus cost would be cheaper than the dip.

[@mv3780]

Really enjoyed this video. Might wanna get a GoPro mount for your head so you can work easier as you’re filming. I have one if you want it. Just get in touch and I can mail it to you.

[@Young937phoenix]

Can I ask what do you think your was worth before you did any work and if the suspension needs completely redone and the interior is worse than yours.

[@IndustriousPursuits]

When I bought my rig, I thought it was in much better condition on the interior. The leaking roof has ruined the entire interior to the point where I won't be happy with it until I completely gut it. I suspect most of them will be the same. If the motor home smells like mold, it's most likely that you will need to completely gut it, and fix the leaky roof. I've seen already gutted motorhomes that drive sell for $800. The typical cost of one that needs to have the interior redone is about $6500 to $8000. But we are now in a depression. That will lower the price a lot. To answer your question I would offer that seller about $5000. These are massive project vehicles. Much cooler than building a Schoolie, but you are getting yourself into thousands of hours of work.