InhibitX vs Naphtha are they the same?

[@deaultusername]

coulpe of years later but the other chem listed is Trimethylpentane 10-17%

[@TaylorRussell_TheAnimator]

this video saved me, BIGTIME. I'd never even heard about mold inhibition until a 3d printed Pokeball I was trying to cast came out all goopy after a 24 hour cure and I was so confused especially because I had cast something else I printed before with no issue! After countless videos and websites of research, I come here and BOOM, you made the connection about time after printing and it all clicked! the first printed object I cast with no issue had been sitting on my shelf for weeks, while the Pokeball print was only a day or so old after UV curing. You saved me much sanity, thank you!

[@Yngwiejmalmsteen08]

I also experienced this issue and it got me baffled I’m now trying to find a way to speed up the process though so I don’t have to leave them for several weeks to offgas naturally 😆 any ideas?

[@reinkdesigns]

So my only input on this is that I have had failed molds using inhibitx on fresh prints. So I would like to see this experiment redone in stages, make 3 prints instead of 2 and 3 stages so 9 dice. Each stage using no chem, 1 with inhibitx and 1 with naphtha. Print 9 dice and run this test every day for 3 days.

[@xunk16]

That would have been a better test... and kinda what I expected.

[@RobDosRamos]

Thanks for the research

[@ivnstudios6135]

thanks for making the video, it really helps to make decisions

[@grbartstudios8404]

Amazing video, however I am expecting inhibition when trying to mold polymer clay( sculpy). I have tried three different mold products with no luck. Do you happen to have any suggestions inhibit X is not a full proof solution? Do you think mod podge hard seal would prevent inhibition?

[@craigjones7343]

Have you tried using any other types of resin in your printer, eg Standard, ABS-Like, etc, and what were the results when making silicon molds?

[@sublimationman]

The MSDS only has to list chemicals that are considered hazardous so it's not a way to figure out what is actually in the inhibit x material (seen multiple videos on this exact same subject). Of course the simple solution would be to switch to 'tin' cure silicone instead of 'platinum' cure silicone as it's very hard to cure inhibit it. The normal culprits of sulfur and such won't stop 'tin' cure silicone from curing. Oomoo 30 is a suitable replacement for the silicone you are using (from Smooth-On).

[@scottcomber]

Thanks for the video. Was about to buy some.

[@Spiritwingz56]

How did you get all that uncured resin out of those first dice numbers you said you had had inhibition on but tried again later?

[@karenwoolley4279]

Bronze Powder looks cool, is it hard on the mold?

[@coffeeoutlaws7783]

i dont know how you can see if naptha is same as inhibitx, if you did not test inhibit x with this particular resin

[@RichardThompsonCA]

Just FYI, I've seen a recent video comment (though can't remember where or who) that says the sds for the can of inhibitX they have seen also lists a small amount of shellac as an ingredient. I can't confirm or explain how this could be, different ingredient listing requirements for different countries perhaps? I think shellac is considered a "natural" ingredient so maybe it doesn't have to be on the sheet in all geographic regions? Anyway, just some food for thought. I'm doing some new tests now with thinned shellac as a barrier.

[@DanielElliott3d]

Read this comment today and I've set up a test that will dry overnight. I've got naphtha + shellac varnish (4/1 ratio, the varnish already has naphtha in it though so its rough at this point). Also have a naphtha + urethane varnish at 4/1 and 2/1 ratio (the varnish also contains its own naphtha so the extra I'm adding is to thin it). The last one I'm testing is rust oleum clear gloss aerosol which as far as I can tell is the same or very similar to krylon clear coat acrylic. I'm in new zealand so all the products will be different from US (naphtha is called white spirits over here) but if I'm successful I'll post my results tomorrow. I'm smooth on using mold star 15 slow which I had a inhibited cure today on my resin print (saraya tech fast abs like grey). I like the resin so would be good to know that I can wash/cure and mold within a reasonable amount of time if I can find the right sealer for it.

[@RichardThompsonCA]

@@DanielElliott3d While working on another unrelated project, I discover that Smooth-On's Mold Max 30 does not inhibit against syratech blue. No sealer, no soaking, no baking. This is a tin-cure silicone though.

[@DanielElliott3d]

@@RichardThompsonCA yeah I was going to pick up some to try but it's sold out at the distributer in my country

[@DanielElliott3d]

@@RichardThompsonCA have you tried oomoo which is also a tin cure? wondering what the differences are.

[@DanielElliott3d]

the results weren't amazing. the shellac was the best. I realise that it doesn't dissolve in naphtha though. so I need to thin it with alcohol and try that. also I read on reddit a list titled something like "you don't need inhibitx" and realised I'd only cured for a few minutes. now I've printed someitttlw test pots that take 10-15 minutes to print and trying to cure them in my diy cure box for hours and see how they do. I did a cure of two hours and that wasnt successful. I interestingly, the pot with just curing + mold release did better than the one that had a acrylic gloss and another with paint primer. I'm curing for a few more hours today and will repeat the test.

[@LevelUpYourFandom]

I have overheard some people talking about using petroleum jelly thinned with naphtha, to the point that it was almost water thin, as a mold release to guard against silicone sticking to itself in two part molds, maybe thats an option?

[@jasondavis8741]

And it makes a great octane booster too

[@viridianwarrior]

Don’t the guidelines say to paint it on with a brush?

[@nathanieltucker3643]

So just to help clarify your findings. SDS data sheets only have to report the hazardous materials in a product. So if there can be other non-hazardous components in the product as well.

[@teresashinkansen9402]

Indeed, so they can get away not disclosing industrial secrets if they aren't hazardous. Im trying to figure out how Inhibit X works (never have used it but wanna make my own cheaper version) and I think it must work by two principles, It could create a sealing layer, maybe a special polymer with very low permeability to some molecules so even a very thin coat is enough (the datasheet says "resin solution") or it could have some compound that scavenges and reacts with anything that the silicone reacts, maybe even both principles are at work but what exactly is what they are using?

[@karenwoolley4279]

Cool that a couple of weeks made a difference.

[@rothery2]

I'm pretty sure the single component label in their listing is referring it to being a single product as opposed to something like the silicone which is a dual component or 2 part product. Also if you look at that chemical listing on the SDS it shows that the Naptha is less than 100% of it's makeup. So there are other chemicals in there, but they must be relatively harmless. to no end up on the SDS.

[@kokoakawaii]

great! thank you!

[@RichardThompsonCA]

I wonder if this just isn't a case of being the "wrong" naphtha. There are petroleum naphtha's made from crude oil, but there are others made from natural gas, coal tar, etc. I think they are probably all called "naphtha" on the label. Unfortunately it would require someone who knows a lot more about chemical compounds than me to tell you how to tell them apart ( but probably a smell test would be a good place to start). I know from experience I've had this sort of problem before with other thinners, there's just so much naming confusion. I ended up here because I've also recently been looking at inhibit x , here in Canada it's $70 a bottle.

[@reinkdesigns]

The msds sheet lists it as naphtha petroleum

[@RichardThompsonCA]

@@reinkdesigns I think you might need the other one, from natural gas. I only say that because inhibit x seems to have a short shelf life, according to what I've read online, which, (to me) indicates it maybe becomes "less potent" over time the way fuel does, like there's a high vapor component evaporating out. I'm going to check out my local automotive paint shops and see what they can tell me. I'll let you know what I find. Thanks.

[@amante2443]

I believe you are correct with the Naphtha. I have a basic understanding, so be warned this is a long-ish comment. But in short, I believe Inhibit-X is your best bet, second is leaving the resin prints out for awhile. In full, when looking at Inhibit-X's Safety Data Sheet (SDS), the full name is Naphtha (petroleum) light alkylate. The name sort of describes its production. But the name isn't chemically specific enough. For specificity, I used the Chemical Abstract Services Registry Number (CAS number). Inhibit-X' s CAS-No is 64741-66-8. But it's not 100% and the remaining chemical components aren't listed. (This is shown briefly in the video above) The CAS number is a unique numerical identifier for chemical substances. You'll find CAS numbers of things in their SDS, section 3 - composition/Information on ingredients. Various chemical databases describes that particular CAS-No as a complex hydrocarbon mixture. The automotive paint shop idea was also good. A product: WD-40 Motorcycle specialist total shine, had that chemical. But they don't seem to sell that specific product not any more. Unfortunately, it appears that specific chemical is only really available from specialist chemical companies. The companies you have to contact first before they tell you their price. Regarding wait time, I believe @Richard_Thompson's channel, someone also mentioned leaving the resin model out for between 2 days, to 4 weeks. Something which accidentally happened and stopped the cure inhibition in the video above.

[@macewen1]

Has anyone tried just coating their masters in clear krylon primer? That's like $4 per rattle can and lasts quite a while.

[@swaroopcool22]

is ecoflex a tin cured silicone? I am surprized to see no inhibition in your control sample.

[@swaroopcool22]

also btw how do you polish the resin printed parts? Dremel? What polishing compound?

[@ImagiNationLabswithRevChumley]

ecoflex is Platinum cure

[@ImagiNationLabswithRevChumley]

Zona papers

[@TrueRueTube]

Well shoot I’m here I thought I was going to save 40 bucks

[@ImagiNationLabswithRevChumley]

Yeah so did I lol.

[@harald_schubert]

Just bake the resin parts in the oven for 4 hours about 82C. No need for any extra products and it will cure perfectly

[@MrIwan900]

But do resins withstand such a temperature? For example, Elegoo WW or Frozen 4k?

[@harald_schubert]

@@MrIwan900 you can try with a lower temperature

[@harald_schubert]

Just make sure your resin is properly cured

[@MrIwan900]

@@harald_schubert If you don't mind, I have a few more questions. 1. Do I need to wash the models in water or alcohol after baking in the oven (depending on which resin is used)? 2. After baking the model, after what time can I try to fill the model with silicone? Immediately or is it better to wait? 3. Do you cover the model with some kind of separating grease after baking before pouring silicone? P.s I did some tests with small models (Elegoo WW Black resin) and different separators. There were both negative and positive results. I thought I had solved the inhibition problem. But as soon as I filled in the working model, I was waiting for a failure. I've tried many different approaches, but I haven't found a solution yet. A few hours ago, the models were baked at 82 degrees (Elegoo WW black resin). They have withstood this temperature and preserved their geometry, there seems to be no distortion. I hope heating will help prevent silicone inhibition)))

[@harald_schubert]

@@MrIwan900 gladly help you. Step1: after the resin print has been printed, clean it with isopropyl alcohol. Step2: cure the print in the sun or uv light (black light) for longer than usual. Step3: bake it in the oven. (80 degrees for 4hours) Step4: after it cooled down spray a mold release on the print so that it is easier to get the silicone of the print, but it isn’t a necessary step. Step5: let it cure and if you see some inhibition put the silicone in the oven and bake it and the inhibition is gone. Side effect the silicone might be shiny ✨ I’ve tried it and it always works for me😃 I haven’t found a minimum time for baking the silicone but I’ve went for an hour so far also with 80 degrees, but you probably get away with 30 minutes

[@coffeeoutlaws7783]

if you are using nitrile gloves be carefull handling the models nitrile can cause inhibition also

[@marcomoncada5125]

y si el ingrediente faltante y secreto es vaselina ;)