INPUT SHAPER CRASH COURSE - Print FASTER and BETTER!

[@nccyr1]

Even 2 years later, this is a great tutorial. Thank you for taking the time to create this video.

[@RobStangle]

This is the definitive Input Shaper vid to watch. It covers all the bases. Thank you so much!

[@Whipster-Old]

This video was fantastic. I've been toying with the idea of buying an accelerometer for input shaper for months now, and this has tipped me over the edge. Brilliant coverage, not too short, not too long, not patronising, and not a single mention of raid shadow legends. Thank you.

[@CanuckCreator]

Dangit. Knew i forgot something

[@Whipster-Old]

@@CanuckCreator rekt as the kids say

[@overtorquednut]

This may in fact be the single greatest video that has ever been posted on KZbin. I was dreading setting up my Pi as a secondary MCU, but I just followed this video (as well as the Klipper docs) and it was actually quite easy, and now my prints look so much better! Thanks, Nero.

[@keezo1234]

Definitely want to see me more content like this

[@vulcan4d]

Tip for all: don't shutdown your printer while relocation the accelerometer. Those files are saved in the tmp folder and the files will clear.

[@Antebios]

This must be added to the video tutorial ASAP!

[@everettebinger5956]

You mean don't shutdown your pi...

[@clsferguson]

Fuuuuu. I just did all this crap, shut down my pi and went to my laptop to finish. Couldn't find the CSV files and then read this comment. So frustrated!

[@soundspark]

The printer MCU can be safely shut down, just don't shut down the host OS.

[@johns_craft8582]

How do you save it then

[@Matt-je5hn]

I'm loving the Klipper series! Thanks for the work you put in on this!

[@Altirix_]

such an underrated channel, great guide.

[@kbrickman]

There are so many out there (myself included) that will benefit from this kind of instruction regarding klipper.

[@RandomTobyStuff]

A tip. For soldering header pins flush to the board, put the board on a flat surface. Insert the pins, long pin down (ie opposite way to what you would expect), into the board then solder from the top side. The black plastic bit keeps the pins aligned but is spaced off the board so you can solder under it. Once soldered you can remove the black plastic bit (it will probably just slide off with a bit of wiggling) and you have completely flush (on the bottom) soldered pin header. Alternatively, if you want to keep the black bit then just push it down until it sits on the solder joints :)

[@federico9292]

you're my reference for Klipper content! you rock!!

[@desmogod]

Klipper is great but the documentation is hit. This absolutely nailed it, thank you!

[@CanuckCreator]

Alot of the documentation has been updated. See github.com/KevinOConnor/klipper/blob/master/docs/Config_Reference.md for example

[@djastua]

Love your videos! You explain everything in debt without making it boring and too long!

[@Deadlypen859]

I think you mean in depth

[@creativitybyph]

Great video :) Some video on determining max acceleration and speed of the printer would be great. And also, I'll get an accelerometer now :)

[@JoeryPigmans]

nice and clear delivery. thank you for this "lesson" on input shaper

[@thecesarmillan5366]

please do the videos you suggested at the end, those sound super interesting!

[@Antebios]

OMG, this was an excellent tutorial! The set-by-step instructions were very helpful.

[@Vespacker]

One of the best content about adxl345 integration with Klipper...i would definately want to watch/learn more... one request, as we all know Voron switchwire is a different segment, it would be great if we can get similiar content/tests/results with your ender3 v2 which is an entry level and very common (cost effective) printer. I really wonder how the quality will be improved in e3v2 with such a sophisticated low cost modding...thanks again for your all effort and contribution the makers community...

[@kyobinbou]

Thank you for this guide, even if it is 2 years old, it helped me in installing and measuring my resonances in my printer!

[@wtfismikedoing]

Great explanation! I’ve been looking at input shaper on the klipper site and your video cleared up a lot. My sensor comes tomorrow so I’ll be giving it a go this weekend. Thanks.

[@PaulDominguez]

Another Great video. Looking forward to more vids about Input Shaper and its features. A multipart series :)

[@vesslades]

I'd like an entire video about acceleration please

[@mensb1936]

this

[@Jin-Ro]

@@mensb1936 This this

[@MirageC]

Great Job! Thank you very much for this awesome video! Keep it up man :)

[@Tuxedo2680]

Thanks for the info Nero thanks for the tip on moving the power connections to simplify the harness to 4x2 for the Pi hookup. Very clever and useful.

[@holgerj.1794]

thanks for your video. i added now the input shaper in my voron 2.4 with Afterburner. Impressive Klipper funtionality. Its an must for each 3D enthusiast. Br from south germany!

[@MrElbowgrease]

Tremendous thank you and two thumbs up for this crash course. The improvements in printer performance even for a novice Klipper user is remarkable. With input shaping my printer operates smoother, which is especially noticeable when printing faster or using gyroid infill.

[@kamranfarhangi3115]

Great video, good information, clear explanation, thanks, and keep up the good work, I would definitely want to see a more detailed introduction to input shaper. By the way, you just earned a subscriber

[@Audio_Simon]

Great! I've been shopping for servo motors recently for a CNC and they have pretty advanced features to notch out resonance. It's great to see this kind if thing come to 3D printing and without the cost of servos!

[@Antebios]

It's 2025 and I'm still using this guide. WOOT!

[@NbdyWnKenobi]

Great video man, keep up your informative videos!! I needed this one!

[@Beanpapac15]

I had no idea this even existed, great vid

[@Badg0r]

I've subscribed to your channel since your making Klipper tutorials to improve print quality

[@GoldenJaguar3D]

yay awesome video keep them coming!!, I want to see more!!

[@jordanh9520]

This makes a good argument for core xy because you're getting most of your ringing from the x and y axis, but the y axis mass changes throughout the print

[@f16pilotjumper]

I'm behind on this by a few months, but I'm very interested in Input Shaper and related topics to improve printer output. The reality is no frame design is 100% rigid so using available tools to measure the vibration modes of the frame and stay away from them makes a ton of sense.

[@deenman60]

Hey, great content, I just swapped to Klipper 2 days ago, and i love it. I used some of your videos for config so thank you. I get almost the same results as you on my rails ender 3, with more on X than Y on the test print.

[@CanuckCreator]

Yup, different axis`s will have different results usually, you can run different input shapers for each axis if needed, config would look somehting like [input_shaper] shaper_freq_x: xxx shaper_type_x: mzv shaper_freq_y: xxx shaper_type_y: ei

[@deenman60]

@@CanuckCreator thank you. I am running ei for X mzv for Y. Another thing is do you disable z hop while doing prints?

[@CanuckCreator]

@@deenman60 depends on the print..i always run z hop out of habit but it may not always be needed

[@MD-NWWI]

Very good! I think I I’ll be able to give it a try this weekend. Thanks nero!!!!!

[@dreamcat4]

Hey Nero 3d ! Thanks for your new video today. I just happened to notice here that you have to carefully count along the pin rows of the rpi header. To make sure you are connecting the cable up to the right row position correctly on the rpi. As to avoid mis-wiring it. However sometimes it can be hard to see in dim light etc. and then make an honest mistake, hook it up wrong and fry something! So why not 3d print a small plastic locator adapter that fits over the smaller dupont 2*4 pin header plug, and then also uniquely maps more safely onto the larger rpi 40 pin header footprint. On the rpi. This way the locating adaptor can always make it impossible for the accelerometer to get plugged in incorrectly. I understand that for most regular people that is probably overkill. And not really necessary because most of us are only doing this task 1-2x times (ever). However you yourself happen to have so many more different 3d printers over there. And keep reusing the same accelerometer each time. So it just might be worth it for somebody like you. Or otherwise for a beginner person who is very scared of messing about with the electronics side of things. I hope the suggestion was helpful and worth reading.

[@johnandrews9433]

way easier to just pay attention and learn how to count

[@JeronimoStilton14]

@@johnandrews9433 definitely not “easier” the adapter would be ten-twenty minutes in cad and maybe an hour for both prints and you get absolutely mindless install every time. The savings will have added up after just a few uses of the system and would immediately pay for itself if you fry something for not using it. The guy is clearly eloquent enough to count but stated realistically that people can make mistakes

[@johnandrews9433]

@@JeronimoStilton14 what, I’m not talking about an adapter. I’m talking about paying attention to what you’re soldering lmao. Work on your reading comprehension

[@JeronimoStilton14]

@@johnandrews9433 Jeeeeesus dude you want to talk about lack of reading comprehension. You were telling someone that its easier to count than make an adapter.There is also no soldering involved on the connector side in question so you've honestly degraded your own premise.

[@johnandrews9433]

@@JeronimoStilton14 yeah idk it’s just pretty fucking easy to count and not fry things like a tard lol

[@Odayian]

Awesome content, thanks! Would love a follow-up with fine tuning.

[@DeathKeeper6]

Love your videos! Thanks for a great totutial. Will be doing that as soon as my printer is back up and running

[@cyborg251]

VERY well done video! Thank you for explaining this in the manner that you did!!

[@Nici619]

Thanks nero

[@taterfpv]

Thanks for the link! I'm sure they'll be sold out before lunch :)

[@joell439]

Would love to see more details when you have time to share. Thanks for this tutorial 👍👍

[@woodwaker1]

This was a great video. I got it to work on the second pass attempt. A lot of steps to get the software all setup, worked very well and got some good numbers. Thanks for doing this

[@Wuetr]

at 5:48 i guess its python3-numpy and python3-matplotlib now

[@ManiekFPV]

Thank you NERO 3D! Input shaper are easy, because i watched your video 😅. My Prusa MK3S Bear now works perfectly 👌.

[@hawktrainer]

Great video (as always!) I'd love to see a more in-depth video.

[@ChrisMuncy]

Been watching your videos specifically to get Klipper running on my v2 and using an accelerometer for input shaping. Your sharing of information has been the clearest by far, very much appreciated. I just have one suggestion: keep using the lapel mic instead of the stand mic. Your voice comes across much better and is more consistent as you turn back and forth from the printers.

[@rl1111rl]

Yes, we want to see more input shaping videos. Please do it on your new Trident! Is there a way to keep the ADXL permanently on the printer? It seems like StealthBurner should incorporate it.

[@muskokaliving2072]

Now with Input Shaper if I put wings on the extruder my printer will fly away! I just finished putting together my Switchwire and with Input Shaper I'm actually getting less ringing and better overall looking prints at higher speeds! Seems strange but I like it. 200mm/s is the highest I'm comfortable with now with max_accel @ 3000. If you see a flying 3d printer it's probably got Input Shaper! Thanks Nero!

[@avejst]

Great video as always Love your dive into the deep end, with this experience it seams as a walk in the park! Would love more in depth videos of Klipper adjustments That for sharing your experience with all of us👍😀

[@RyushoYosei]

THank you for this, I f inally decided to use this videeo, and finally am doing Fine tuning of my I nput shaper with this, rather then just manual tuning, and..I actually had guessed pretty close it looks like on my original input shaping attempts, But this is helping so much, I'm going to be t esting w ith my own from the graph, and also what the "Auto INput shaping" suggests, just to compare results.

[@7erones]

I just finished watching the livestream on this topic, now in the new room :D

[@thynetruly]

I just did this 2 days ago and it was really easy to use a command strip cut in half for each location on my bed slinger cr-10s pro v2!

[@thynetruly]

Oh and I used the test print tower to find my max acceleration of 2500 mm/s^2

[@keithduffield5239]

Thank you. Most informative. I wonder how this would work on a Delta.

[@quality3ds416]

Hi Nero, I'm surprised no one has said anything but you are actually connecting the accelerometer to a 3.3v pin and not a 5v like you say in the video. other then that great video! thank you!

[@jaderem6203]

This is what I was woundering about. Does the 3.3v still work for the ADXL 3453?

[@doccrash11]

Awesome video, thank you!

[@doccrash11]

Took me a few minutes to realize but, make sure you use lowercase for the "mzv" shaper type

[@-1-2-1-]

I think it would be better to include the spring steel build plate when testing the Y axis. If the mass changes the harmonics will change.

[@CanuckCreator]

This is correct, I had it on during the actual tuning but had it off when i went back to record the B-roll footage, should have made a note there.

[@wtfismikedoing]

Thanks for pointing this out!!

[@oddzc]

This was interesting, would be interested to see more info on how this actually works.

[@PaulDominguez]

Would like to see input shaper setup on the Ender 3

[@CelsoAlexanderDiazMarquezcadm]

Excelente Video, Saludos desde Perú.

[@JJShankles]

...and be sure to like that smash button!

[@Blamm83]

Nice and concise!

[@zerant]

Kinda new to all this, thanks for the vid :D

[@jamesfraser7483]

Nero fantastic tutorial. I have the issue of no internet connection connected to printer. How do I instal numpy etc

[@MoeReefs]

You know he's serious when he wears an apron for 3d printing. lol. Thanks Nero for the great videos.

[@neothetwo]

would love to see a Deep Dive video!

[@danikut1641]

Please more about Klipper and Input Shaper! :)

[@joshlujan3318]

Awesome tutorial! I had to look up the chip to see where to get it. The funny part is, the very first link was for the dev of the chip. I actually work in the IT dept. for Analog Devices. I guess I don't have to go far to get support for the chip if I need any lol.

[@madeintexas3d442]

I would definitely like to know more about input shaper. Just started running octoprint ony ender 3 and just got done sourcing the parts for my voron 2.4 yesterday.

[@780brando]

this was a great into to, but I would love to see a deep dive into the input shaper

[@mcfear1991]

Hi Nero 3d, Many thanks for all the videos you've made to support and help the 3d printing community, its greatly appreciated by myself and many others, in the video at 3:38 you mention that your 5v pin is the 9th down for you to plug the 4x2 dupont connector into, however for all the gpio pinouts i've been able to find, 9th down is either 3v3 or GPIO24. neither of which i have been able to find support for 5v for. is there a way to override the 3v3 to 5v on the Pi4 or can the GPIO24 be set to output 5v? My last printer i did input shaping on i had 6 individual duponts and had them plugged in all over the I/O but would love to have a 4x2 for cleanliness and simpleness if possible. Many thanks

[@kylesreef2989]

The adxl345 will run on both 3.3v (pin 1 & 17), or 5v. In this case he's running 3.3v on pin 17.

[@mcfear1991]

@@kylesreef2989 appreciate the reply mate. Thanks

[@timothymusson5040]

Awesome video!

[@alexbuilder6983]

Such a cool tool!

[@x4runnergunnerx9]

This is great, please talk about max acceleration as well! Currently running at 3k because that’s where my gap starts opening up on the ringing tower!

[@RaphaelRema]

Really nice and informative. Thanks👍

[@scuba19761]

Thanks! Great video and tutorial. I have a sovol sv04 with 2 extruder. I can test only main extruder?

[@yvesinformel221]

thank you for this video, kind of hard to find the info you need on a 3hours plus video

[@МаксимВирт-р8з]

In fact belts has the same phisics as a guitar's strings. When the head is in center - it has one resonance frequence and another one when the head moves to a side. Input shaping have to measure resonance in different points and approximate different frequencies depending on x / y position for better results

[@qman2852]

I noticed the chart referenced a csv file. I wonder how much improvement you could get with the actual values stored in the file vs eyeballing the chart.

[@Gebsfrom404]

Aren't top right values on the charts is the ready answers?

[@qman2852]

@@Gebsfrom404 I think you are right. I missed that. It even gives a shaper recommendation.

[@qman2852]

I would love to see a follow up video to see those setting in play and compare results.

[@JFML1974]

Consultation. When putting linear guides, the nozzle is advanced in the bed, how are these values ​​corrected in klipper?

[@MrSocko-bh1jb]

More in depth video on input shaper plz!!!

[@JeronimoStilton14]

Hmm small nitpick but if you’re already using numPy and a matlab script it should be able to automatically do peak data. A little bit of backend work and you should be able to tell it which axis you ultimately want and have it just automatically set the setting for you. That’s more on whoever wrote these scripts but just something to think about.

[@MohamedAhmed-vi4st]

Great work Can you please share design of the printer behind you

[@enlightendbel]

A note about 'do not touch anything', when using a removable accelerometer, using a heavy cable setup like you did that touches parts of the printer and has the cables that connect to the accelerometer tensioned, you are both dampening the accelerometer and already changing the conditions of the printer and its resonance. Take care in minimizing the effect a detachable accelerometer has on the system. Preferably, use light cabling with sufficient slack from the accelerometer to a decoupling perimeter point and from there use your heavier cable to reach the Pi. For permanently attached accelerometers it doesn't matter that much, but making the installation, including cabling, as light as possible is always best practice for a moving axis on a 3D printer.

[@enlightendbel]

Also note, you can use the graphic output of the test routine with an accelerometer as a visualization and benchmark for fortifying your 3D printer, how it sits on your bench and fortifying your workbench. I didn't save any shaper settings until I did a few things to make the printer, mounting of the printer and workbench more rigid. oscillation And that will make it so that the printer firmware and parts have to do less work removing the oscillation, giving you even more speed and less wear on your parts. After I did what I could to remove as much resonance that way, I redid the calibration for use in Klipper itself and the amplitudes of the resonances were barely a 10th of what they were before and the frequency had shifted.

[@TORDesign]

Fab video thanks Nero - but I do wonder after all this we input two numbers into our config - is it much different to the numbers I entered manually using my calipers on the ghosting?

[@antlu65]

Great video. Im a peasant printing at 45mm/s. Time to get me some Klippy~

[@DavidRelich]

Great video! Can other types of acceleration modules be used? I have an MPU6050 handy in my drawer. Thanks.

[@williamkavanagh9734]

hey sooo, to connect my accelerometer to the bed of my printer i just designed and printed a shape with a screw hole in it, printed it and simply left it attached to the bed, this held fine and i believe is probably the best solution to not having a screw available on the bed

[@CodeMonkeX]

Just a little note, you are connecting to the 3.3v pin on the Pi not 5v. It looks like most of these chips are fine from 3.3-5v but just keep that in mind if you are having issues that might be related to the chip not getting enough voltage.

[@AdalbertoTaylor]

I was looking for that info. My accelerometer has a pin labeled VCC+5v and another one just labeled +3.3v, I guess that should be ok if I just hook the +3.3v to the pin 17 on the gpio, right?

[@worthyourtime4378]

Thanks a lot! You are the best!

[@JeanBrito666]

Awesome video! I would like to know how to discover the highest speed that you can print using klipper. I have a Anycubic Mega S with klipper and you are encouraging me to tune it to become a beast kkkk Your content is excellent, congratulations and thank you very much.

[@faithblinded]

I simply designed my mount to only mate to the flat part of the adxl345, and leave the header pins out of the equation altogether. There's enough width to get a secure mount without including the header area. Those sensors are so cheap I'm leaving them permanently mounted on the toolheads. At someone else's suggestion on one of your videos, I designed a mount to print on the bed and screw the sensor into it without detaching the print from the bed. I can't really get at the screws on my printbed since they are under an expensive magnetic sheet from wham bam. I was thinking of leaving the bed heat on to ensure the print sticks while the motion is hitting harmonics. Do you think the heat will effect the readings from the adxl345?

[@GT_177]

Would it be possible to use a smartphone accelerometer? If you connected to the web server from your phone and then attached your phone to the printer could you get the phone to send its sensor readings to the webpage.

[@802Garage]

Awesome idea! One problem is the phone would add significant mass, affecting the input shaping results.

[@AlexanderEresov]

Awesome!

[@danifem]

Can I do this on octoprint octoklipper?

[@CanuckCreator]

Yup

[@danifem]

@@CanuckCreator thanks. worked like a charm. only thing I had to do on top was update python in order bein able to install numpy

[@twinturbostang]

CoreXZ? Interesting! What are the benefits of such a setup?

[@JasonSmith-pc6kr]

I'm a little confused on which axis to read from depending how the accelerometer is mounted. Mine is mounted on the front of the hotend fan, facing me.

[@robertblot4513]

Do you have a video detailing input shaper using a klipper laptop? I don't have a pi.