2001 Ford F150 Transmission Service (Flush, Torque Converter, Oil Cooler, Pan & Filter)

[@StateofPeaches99]

I'm a mother trying to help her son with a truck repair, this is the best video I have found that I can found step by step. I appreciate your videos! But we want be doing a flush because his ford truck has 200K+ miles, we will be draining. But your video help us understand what to expect when we drop the pan. We are replacing the TCC. Thanks for posting, just an excellent how to.

[@dmt8365]

You did great mr Insane Oil! Nobody shows you this, they just change the pan gasket and filter and fill what came out of the pan. But you show us how to do it right and save money on a gasket. Thanks

[@gerardtabaloc2276]

Jon, this is the best ever video I saw online that is very professional, process is very well explained slowly and thoroughly without hiding any steps (unlike other bloggers). Thank you so much for the very helpful tip on flushing, changing oil and filter.

[@InsaneOil]

Thank you for the comment. Good luck with your repair.

[@randyshepherd1841]

Just did mine based on this video, thanks! 200k on the truck and the plug was still in the pan.(I have had it for almost a year.)

[@joecaine55]

Randy Shepherd, hows she running to this day...I have 208k and I highly doubt it's ever been serviced

[@jonothejester]

After adding the transmission flush, you want to make sure all lines are installed, prior to running the vehicle. This will allow the transmission flush to work its way through the entire system. Afterwards, you will want to disconnect the supply side when flushing the fluid out.

[@vincentrobinette1507]

I usually like to disconnect the return line, and use an adapter on the coolers. that way, you also flush out the coolers, so no residual solvent in them remains to dilute the new transmission fluid.

[@UnRefinedHero]

im paying $140 to have this done to my f150 tomorrow. money well spent in my book

[@UnRefinedHero]

ya this one is dropping the pan and changing the filter. they are the most highly recommended shop in my area, and their shop has a big window between the shop floor and the waiting room, so that the customer can watch them as they service your car. they are a little higher priced ($40/ oil change) but they actually do things properly, and inspect your ride for issues.

[@jonothejester]

UnRefinedHero It's always good to have a reputable mechanic that you can trust.

[@dan2468101214]

Incredibly helpful and clear! After watching the video, I performed the same procedure on my 2000 Ford F-150, and that seemed to clear up the gear slipping.

[@jonothejester]

+dan2468101214 Awesome. Glad it helped.

[@romansroad2007]

Did you use the Ford brand for transmission fluid or something????

[@truthdealer99]

@@romansroad2007 great question. However, its understood that its overall better that you use Ford Motorcraft fluids on their vehicles. Better performance, longevity functionality of inner components etc.

[@vincentrobinette1507]

The thing that makes the biggest difference, is replacing the pickup filter. Any suction restriction on the intake tube causes air bubbles in the fluid, and the pump can't produce enough pressure to ensure full engagement of the clutch packs.

[@AMMOPUNK1]

Jon, you are Fantastic! Very professional and thorough. You give me the confidence to tackle this job myself, I'm anxious to start!

[@vincentrobinette1507]

I recommend leaving the supply line connected to the coolers, so they too, get flushed. You can get adapters that will connect to the return ports of the trans coolers, so it can be directed into the collection container. That also helps remove any residual flush additive, ensuring maximum film strength of the new fluid, to protect gears, bearings and clutches. I typically don't use any kind of flush fluid, I just simply flush with the transmission fluid I intend to use. That eliminates any possibility of solvent diluting the new fluid.

[@InsaneOil]

Agreed. It is always good to make sure all flush product (if used) is removed during this process.

[@Tapanova]

Great video. Helps me to decide whether I’d tackle this job myself or a shop. If anything, it provided me an understanding to ask my service shop the right questions.

[@InsaneOil]

Thanks for the comment. Good luck with whichever route you decide to go.

[@CobraR1993]

I have a 2004 crown Victoria. I dropped the valve body and cleaned it out. Also, use a sifon pump to extract the fluid from the pan before you drop it. Its easier that way..

[@broken1965]

Jon the f150 looks cleaner as my 2002 FX4 nice job I live in snow belt so i have repaired all rust and re painted 1/2 the truck. original owner purchased 2003

[@nationaltradesman1781]

Excellent. I was baffled by the yellow plug I found in the pan. Thanks for the answer!!

[@InsaneOil]

Glad the video helped.

[@jonothejester]

I had about 100k miles when I serviced this transmission. However, when I purchased the vehicle it had about 94k miles and I had no records of previous service. If you are running conventional transmission fluid in severe service conditions (towing, in-town only, etc), it is recommended to change the transmission fluid every 30k miles. Amsoil transmission fluid service interval is every 50k miles under the same circumstances.

[@roadkingretired]

Thanks man. I watch 3-4 flush videos and yours by FAR is the best. Plus I too am replacing with Amsoil so super helpful and you got me to go ahead and get the Amsoil trans flush fluid to run. Thanks again.

[@InsaneOil]

I hope you were able to order your Amsoil at wholesale pricing by becoming a preferred customer. www.amsoil.com/offers/pc/?zo=10458

[@jonothejester]

Taking the hoses off at the beginning allows you to determine which hose is the supply and which is the return. Basically it lets you know which way the fluid is flowing and where it will shoot out of when you get ready to do the fluid replacement.

[@joseplaceres4172]

Very good video. Thank you for taking the time to deliver such a detailed explanation.

[@christianrichter8226]

Had my feed line blow before, not fun, by the time I was done, all the transmission fluid was swapped, just might as well do the filter now. I had the transmission a little overfilled with fluid for a little while, it just doesn't like to shift as much, I emptied it to the right level once I was sure the leaks in the line were fixed. Gotta love New York and their road salt.

[@jimfrieday6831]

The upper line on the side of the transmission to the cooler is the return line. So the line you want to disconnect from the cooler is the one coming from the lower transmission fitting.

[@bobbystanley8580]

Thanks!

[@amcrae1]

THANK YOU THANK YOU A MILLION TIMES!!! Thank you for showing the position of the lines....that's just what I needed to know!!!!

[@sealtite904]

Would it make sense when running new fluid through the system to disconnect the return line instead of the supply to get the old fluid out of the coolers too?

[@SMarti018]

Great Video, I am about to do this to my 04 F-150 but i plan on disconnecting the return line and starting truck like you did but run the truck for a additional for 10-15 more seconds and that will flush out 4-5 quarts from the pan and then i can drop the pan with it being mostly empty and save the mess. I can't see how running the oil out from the return line out into the pan would hurt the engine in any way since the remaining oil is still being sucked out of the pan and draining in for that 10-15 seconds. there is a write up on this online of people using this method as well :)

[@MaxStevenson-ih5ji]

i've been searching all round youtube and i think this is the best way.

[@jonothejester]

Good question. I suppose the only option is to fish it out either with your finger or devise some type of a hook that you can reach up there and grab on to it. I don't even recall if my original filter had a grommet and my video doesn't show the top side of the filter.

[@suggesttwo]

When I got rid of my 93 Vic I dropped the trans to see what causes shudder and slippage because the car that replaced it had the same drive line and transmission problems. I found mayo(oil & water) in the valve body.

[@ironDsteele]

Great video! AMSOIL is the best, I use it in everything, even my wood splitter. I also run it in my R6, good to have in an engine that spinning 17000 RPM!

[@westhavenor9513]

I'm surprised not more people use this method. I've done it on my Mazda5. Great way to change ALL the fluid. Only thing I do differently is I'd never add anything other than AFT to a transmission. Not worth the risk.

[@InsaneOil]

I agree that many prefer to use no flush products. Given that I had no knowledge of the history of the vehicle, my preference is to clean out what sludge is in there. I sold this vehicle about a year ago. No tranny issues in the 10 years after doing this service.

[@robertmckelvey6564]

Man awesome video, I wish you could service my F150 2006. Good job my friend.

[@InsaneOil]

Thank you for your comment. Bring it by, we’ll get it fixed up…I’m in Nebraska.

[@robertmckelvey6564]

@@InsaneOil I'm down here in Georgia my friend. Had the trans worked on, had front seal replaced and torque converter replaced and get it back and ideals with a bad vibration. What would that be?

[@InsaneOil]

@@robertmckelvey6564 I would start with an induction cleaning www.amsoil.com/p/power-foam-apf/?zo=10458 and also clean all the injectors www.amsoil.com/p/p-i-performance-improver-gasoline-additive-api/?zo=10458 , that would rule out anything fuel system related.

[@biggerstuff360]

Also forgot I read where some people were having problems getting the gasket to stay on while installing. After cleaning take and run a small bead of black rtv on the pan and tran. Put the gasket on the pan over the rtv and let it sit for 30 mins. It will start to set but just on the outside it will still be soft in the middle. Then u can put the pan on its so much easier!

[@westhavenor9513]

No! Just use a couple zip ties and remove them once you get a couple bolts loosely tightened through the pan.

[@txpaintball]

So do you need three people to do this job? one to watch the color and one to turn off the vehicle and a third to add the fluid?

[@matthewtinker4569]

It is 4WD, 5.4L. The 8th digit is a V on vehicle vin.

[@josevillalobos4241]

breaking my head on the plug! thanks man. great video

[@moneygeewtee]

Great video Jon! I have a '92 F150 and assume the procedure would work pretty much the same way? I a similar service about 6+ years ago. I left out the drain/fill part, which seems to be the most important aspect. Thanks again! :)

[@Imwright720]

This was done correctly and yet some still say oh it’s wrong. He did flush the torque converter.

[@InsaneOil]

Thanks for the comment. I make my best attempt to do to the research prior to any repair...especially when the video is going online.

[@InsaneOil]

@Kiara Wolf That is incorrect. All manufacturers set intervals for changing the transmission fluid. It can often be found in the owners manual or other documentation provided when the vehicle is purchased.

[@handlesaredumb1]

@Kiara Wolf changing the oil won't cause it to go out but may show you problems that the old oil was masking.

[@vargashumberto1]

Thanks for the video man, very helpful, very professional as well makes me trust you. Thanks for taking your time on making the video

[@deanpiper9095]

just wanted to say great video i did everthing you said but i left the linlet in and had the outlet from rediator trans lines undone and draining threre a hose into old 3ltre plastic milk bottles and started it and ran it until clear good red fluid coming out so therefor it also flushed my trans cooler and no dirty crap or trans flush went back into trans

[@lucaslawnservice]

Thanks for another great video! I was just wondering if you would happen to know why a trans on a 2000 f150 5.4 liter would be making kind of whistling/whining noises in first gear and reverse under normal driving conditions? It doesn't do it all the time, but when it is placed into first gear manually(it's an auto trans) it just has a constant whine. Also, when it is cold cranked in the mornings, it makes a really strange, almost pulsing, whining noise for just a few seconds when it's placed into reverse which seems to come from the 4 wheel drive shifter area in the floor board. I've been told that it could be some kind of pump??? Sorry to make this so long, it just has me totally confused because it is driving absolutely normal. Any input you could offer would be greatly appreciated! Thanks for your time...

[@lucaslawnservice]

Also, the fluid is full and is still red...

[@lucaslawnservice]

***** Thanks for the quick reply. I have owned the truck for the past 40,000 miles and I've never changed it. The truck has 178,000 miles on it but the trans was replaced by the previous owner,or so they said, and so the trans should only have about 100,000 miles on it. Fluid has probably never been changed I'd be willing to bet, so it's probably past due. It says on the dipstick to use Mercon V trans fluid only. Do you think changing the fluid and filter out would help? Is there any trans additive that would be beneficial to add in when the fluid is changed? There is also an added in-line filter on the trans line at the front of the truck near the rad. It looks old as well.

[@lucaslawnservice]

***** Thanks a lot! Will definitely try this soon! Appreciate the links as well. Just out of curiosity, have you ever known of many pumps in these type of trans to go bad? Just curious...

[@lucaslawnservice]

***** Oh, sounds good. Thanks again for your help!

[@Toolaholic7]

Chrysler's automatic transmission Fluid ATF+4 is already synthetic and is the same way with GM starting in 2006,Dextron V.

[@larrymaloney877]

Great video...excellent details...I'm doing a 2003 E150 with 138K. It's never been done says the original owner. Thanks for the demo. Has anyone ever looked at the new filter after the flush to see if additional contaminants are picked up?

[@UncleSarkis]

Did you have any problems after changing your transmission fluid? I hear it's not a good idea to do it after too many miles ever never changing?

[@larrymaloney877]

@@UncleSarkis , no problems. I'm still not understanding why clean fluid might cause problems. My power steering recently failed. That was a bear to change. The "remanufactured" pump had a stuck relief valve so blew out the pressure line on startup. Autozone did reimburse $93.00 for a new line.

[@UncleSarkis]

@@larrymaloney877 two reasons that I hear why...1) since a transmission was not serviced for a very long time, there is a buildup of solid material through passage. The new transmission oil with it's stronger detergents will free up those solids and break them free, clogging or closing up tiny passage ways. 2) clutch material inside the transmission has deteriorated and removing the old oil will cause it to slip, because the lack of lubricity from the clutch material that flowed within the oil provided enough friction to prevent slipping. This is just information I have heard from mechanics I know and KZbin mechanics like Scotty Kilmer too.

[@ARuizFAME23]

I'm still confused? When you flush out the old oil how much of the new oil do you put back just 1 gallon?

[@santibaez4039]

WOW this is the best video ive found about this.. can i ask you something. i have the same vehicle ford f150 2002 . just bought.. i asked the mechanic to do a complete maintanance, and i asked about changing the transimsion fluid, but he refused, saying changing might damage the transimsion since the new oil is too thin for a 190000 km vehicle.. he sayed for this cars is better to leave the same old fluid. what do you think?? thanks!

[@santibaez4039]

*****

[@santibaez4039]

Thanks Jon, i´m positive that you are right, i had my doubts also. Unfortunately on my country we dont have AMSOIL. is there any other characteristic or brand instead that you can reccomend to me? i appreciate your advice. Thanks!

[@jasonstride8594]

My response is for ppl that happen upon this comment section & read this non validated jibberish. This is how misinformation begins, Billy Jo-BeenAmechanic30years and his don't flush high mileage tranny's mumbo jumbo. Retarded people never change trans oil stop being lazy and research other than reading KZbin comments if your gonna be dumb u better be tough!

[@javiercn2839]

Thanks a lot for the video. Is it necessary to put some gasket maker (like permatex ultra-grey)?

[@InsaneOil]

According to the repair manual, if the gasket is in good condition, then permatex is not needed. I used no gasket maker and this transmission. I sold this vehicle about a year ago and had no issues for the 10 years I drove it after I did this video.

[@johnbowman1379]

Thank you very much that little plunger I was worried about

[@InsaneOil]

Thanks for the comment. Was your repair a success?

[@tonymayhew191]

Did you know that if you were to turn the one gallon jug of oil around 180deg from the way you are pouring it in the funnel it won't try to chug the oil out the hole? One of those special designs that I believe most people who are unaware of it would rather not make a mess if it can be avoided!😉

[@InsaneOil]

I was actually aware of that but then the label would not be showing…product placement. 😉

[@jobvalero2564]

Could all these steps that you used, be used towards a 4.6 liter engine?

[@genxfordguy1380]

Yes, absolutely. My 2000 F-150 has a 4.6 and the same "Metric" transmission.

[@exforbrian1]

Great video. One question I'm not sure has been answered or asked is.. If you trans fluid has been mixed with coolant from the radiator, will this push all the coffee colored fluid out? In the end when you say to add till the dark turns to light, will that happen in this case or will the small amount of leftovers in the system continue to make that come out cloudy?

[@izcoronel]

i did follow exactly the procedure but for some reason when i checked my dipstick its bone dry where are all my fluid went please help worried and confused by the way my transmission is 4R70W which hold 13.9 qts.

[@InsaneOil]

Add more fluid and check again with the vehicle running on a level surface.

[@izcoronel]

i did add more 15 quarts to be exact and investigate a bit more by removing both return and supply lines and checked my oil cooler for any obstruction the latter was good so i drove my truck the next day to my work which is about 7 miles i checked the dipstick still bone dry by the way my truck is 1999 ford lariat 5.4l canada made i'm not sure if that make any difference i thank you

[@InsaneOil]

@@izcoronel Do you know if your transmission dipstick is the original one?

[@izcoronel]

yes its original anyhow, thanks for the replied,. parked the truck for two days and when i checked the dipstick the fluid over the cold level.i will continue driving the truck and monitor the ATF i'll keep you'update with the progress.my next project are the front and rear differentials.i am not sure if i will use amsoil or motorcraft by the way how 's your truck i know you used amsoil was is it better thank you

[@InsaneOil]

@@izcoronel It felt better after changing it out but the fluid I took out was pretty contaminated. The front dif is at: kzbin.info/www/bejne/nnXEi2p9ZbV2eJo and the rear dif is at: kzbin.info/www/bejne/g57MkoWXmrSlp9E

[@zthermo]

Great job! I have a 2001 Ford F150 XL 4x4 and am going to change the transmission fluid. I was reading that I may have a plug on the torque converter. Can you remove that plug and drain instead of flushing the supply lines? I really don't want to risk not putting enough fluid in while it's running. Dropping the pan alone is about 6 quarts and my manual says 13.9 quarts required when changing. So I'm assuming the rest is in the torque converter?

[@tuber3812]

You certainly can. And it's very easy.

[@TIKIMAN198]

5:42 holy shit that is an optical illusion lol

[@jorgemartinbg]

Hi, I have. 1998 4.6 f150 and I just changed the spark plugs and cables along with a new MAF sensor and it was running fine for a week. This week I added a radiator flush for a couple of days and my transmission started to feel sluggish(3 days into driving) & it was empty when I checked it. I pour a little bit of oil and the meter stick shows that it has too much. I drive it, it begins to show signs of sluggishness and it’s empty again. Didn’t see any leaks in my parking spot or anywhere the car has been parked. I’m thinking it could be a cooling hose but I was hoping to get maybe some advice before I go to war w the transmission. Thanks and thanks for posting your videos. 👍 stay safe everyone ......

[@InsaneOil]

Make sure you are checking your transmission fluid with the vehicle running and sitting on a level surface. If it still doesn't register on the dipstick then top it off to the Full Cold mark (with the vehicle running). Drive it for a day or so and check it again. Let me know if you are still loosing fluid.

[@jorgemartinbg]

Insane Oil , I always check that transmission fluid with the car on, but I will try it topping it off with the full cold mark. Thank you for taking the time to reply. It’s strange I don’t see a leak when I’m parked.

[@jorgemartinbg]

Insane Oil ok I tried it. Truck was sluggish and the gears took about three seconds to kick in. When I first checked the oil(been parked for three days) it was empty, I poured a tiny bit and it was super full. Don’t understand how, I’ve been checking oils since I was 6, so I know better not to smear it. Before parking it, I checked the oil and it armory and there’s this smoky dust or smoke when I had th e engine on. FYI I was flushing the radiator so I have not yet flushed it since I was in the middle of the job when all this happened. It was sluggish at the end to reverse park it. Thank you and I appreciate any advice. I have worked on cars and I’ve never seen a transmission give me this trouble. In the past week before the issues I had changed the coils , cables and spark plugs. And I had also done a radiator flush, but it needed more than one since it hadn’t been done since god knows when. Again thank you for the advice and stay safe.

[@jorgemartinbg]

Insane Oil hi it looks like it’s still losing oil after I changed the gasket. I did torque it to 11 lbs of pressure. Do you know if the plates need change after a while?

[@stephansimon6313]

Following your procedure, would there not still be some old fluid in the oil cooler? you drained the trans, and flushed the TC, but once you hook the line back up to the oil cooler, isn't there going to be new fluid entering the cooler and whatever old fluid left in the cooler and the return line being pushed into the trans?

[@jonothejester]

Good catch. That is one part that I did not clarify. Since the actual oil cooler sits above the send/return lines, when I disconnect the line (and drop the pan), gravity will drain the oil cooler and line. To help this, you can also put some compressed air through the lines...just don't have a very high pressure because you don't want to blow any seals or lines. Hope this helped.

[@Black_Dirt_Contractor]

I recently bought an 02 E250 work van so I could leave my truck at home. It started dying anytime I would take off from O/D or 2nd, and sometimes in 1st. After having it scanned we determined a solenoid for the torque converter is either bad, going bad or just malfunctioning. It had sat for quite some time so we were thinking maybe it's tarnished and he said to run conditioner in it. I'm just going to change filter and fluid like you did in the video. Would this said solenoid be hard to change? I don't think the mechanic knew where it was for sure. Thanks for your help? Also, after watching this video it reminded me I haven't flushed my trucks fluid so I'm doing it at the same time

[@Musicizmyremedy]

Nice video. I have a 2002 Lexus IS300, what type of transmission fluid should I be using?

[@bethware4266]

We have a truck that were building and need to know how much and what kind of fluid goes in the torque converter?

[@bethware4266]

302 Boss motor

[@tomrusso4957]

I noticed when you flushed the system, you removed the supply line to the oil coolers, flushed the convertor and then reattached the supply line. wouldn't you want to flush the system and then reconnect the supply and remove the return from the oil coolers and flush them as well.

[@tomrusso4957]

+Jon Olson (ZO1983724) Thanx for the reply Jon. I have been hearing horror stories about people that have flushed their trans and then shortly after had them fail. Have you had any experience or heard of this happening?

[@StateofPeaches99]

+Tom Russo I read it applies to very high mile vehicles. Read in some threads don't flush it will wreck the transmission. Drain and refill. Again, on very high mile vehicles only. My son is 200K! Jon video is excellent, so helpful. Here goes: Don't flush it. It will wreck the transmission. Drain and refill.Most torque converters will hold up to 40% of the transmission fluid. So draining and refilling it will at least replace 60% of the fluid; which is better than nothing.After a drain and refill, cycle through your entire selector slowly (P, R, N, D, D3, D2, L, D2, D3, D, N, R, P) a couple of times. This allows the fluid to fill all of the cavities and removes any air pockets. When driving, drive moderately. Allow the transmission to adjust to the new fluid.Since it is a high millage transmission, you might want to do a drain and fill, change the filter, run it for about 100 or so miles, and do another drain and fill, and reuse the new filter.

[@Toolaholic7]

1998 to 2005 Ford automatics use Mercon V only.Today's automatics,use the recomended fluid or you will do damage to the transmission if you don't.

[@dsaint9264]

thanks gd video mr.olson im wondering if i should bother doing it one of my trucks has 247000miles on an r100 trans.and the other has 68000 on an r70 neither have ever been done and both run strong

[@jamesk5989]

Can’t believe how good condition that undercarriage is in for a 01

[@InsaneOil]

Vehicle was garaged for the first 10 years before I owned it. This video was also filmed in 2012.

[@Wannagobackto1980]

Mr.Olson, I have a 2002 F-150 extended cab 4x4 4.6L. It has (I'm sure) the same tranny in it as the 01 you did. Today I got in and drove it and noticed it shifting hard and the overdrive light was blinking constantly. Well I went to Advance Auto and got a quart of transmission fluid and put in it and it hasn't come back on. Please tell me I didnt ruin my transmission by running it low on fluid! Also I want to flush and change my fluid and filter like you did. I bought the truck in 06 with 80,000 miles on it and it has 171,000 on it now and I have never touched the transmission till this evening! Would it be wise to change the filter and do what you did or should I just leave it alone? Thanks and I liked that video!!!!!

[@Wannagobackto1980]

***** got my amsoil fluid today and within the next week or so gonna getter done!!! Good informative video sir. Ty

[@yousefergigh8988]

tnx for the video my lariat 2010 transmission are mixed with water should i do the same

[@InsaneOil]

Solve the water problem first.

[@kelleydorethy8548]

SOMEBODY PLEASE RESPOND: (1) Why not connect to the return line off of the radiator? (2) Would it be a good idea to cycle through the gears while pumping out the old fluid? (3)How do i know how much fluid to add while it is being pumped out? None of the videos on this flushing technique explains this, they all just say to not let it run dry. Is the idea that you are not going to be able to add more than it is pumping out, so there is no chance of overfilling and as long as you are adding it will not run dry? Thanks in advance for any response.

[@suggesttwo]

Procedure from my Hayes manual for my 1994 Ford TB. Drain converter. Drop pan, change filter. Install new filter, wiggle it around and make sure it is in. Install pan, add 4 litres, start engine and add the rest of the fluid. Idle for 20 minutes.

[@UncleSarkis]

Is it a bad idea to do a transmission fluid change if one has not been done for the first 140K miles of the car's life?

[@InsaneOil]

I don't think it is a bad idea but I would recommend some type of flush product to eat all the sludge that has accumulated over the last 140k miles...and replace the filter.

[@UncleSarkis]

@@InsaneOil Thank you.

[@351cleavland]

I have a '96 f150 e4od w/170,xxx miles. Is there any reason I wouldn't want to use the amsoil synthetic after a flush. I have heard that it MAY cause issues because the bands have been soaked in conventional fluid. Truck has been serviced regularly. However, while it is running great, it is old. I need another year or so from it before I invest in a trans rebuild.

[@romansroad2007]

That’s what I plan to do on My Ford Expedition 4wd 2001 on Tuesday. I just did a Amsoil oil flush and oil filter changed too I was thinking maybe to use the Amsoil transmission fluid on the transmission too. How is it going for you on the transmission of Amsoil fluids compared to Ford transmission fluid ???!

[@InsaneOil]

Runs like a dream. I'm about 6 1/2 years in to this fluid. I sent a sample in to the lab last year and they said the fluid was still good to run. I'll send another sample in this year.

[@douglasalen]

I understand pulling the supply line to flush the torque converter and transmission, but how does that flush the cooler it self? Should I reconnect the supply line and flush it out the return out let? Im installing a used transmission into my 2002 F150. It has far to miles on the engine to justify a tranny rebuild. I just want to make sure I don't contaminate the used tranny with any debris that may be in the cooler..

[@douglasalen]

Thanks for the quick response! I will definitely refer back to this video after I perform the tranny swap...

[@wesley4300]

0:47 is that a vent line and if so for what?? Right below the arrow

[@InsaneOil]

I believe it is the vent/overflow.

[@dvlwalsh]

Thanks for the video ... I'm guessing mine has also never been changed but I wanted to ask: my F150 is manual...is there anything different I should consider?

[@mannys9130]

David Walsh It's much easier. There's a fill plug and drain plug. You remove the fill plug first (always), then the drain plug. The oil will drain out. The drain plug may be magnetic. If it is, clean all the fuzzy metal shavings off before reinstalling it. Use the exact fluid specified by Ford to refill the transmission. Squeeze/pour new fluid into the fill plug until the fluid inside is level with the bottom of the fill plug hole. Most people just fill it until it starts to overflow, let it drizzle out until it doesn't come out anymore, and then reinstall the fill plug. That's it. MUCH easier than an auto trans fluid change. Words of caution! If Ford calls for ATF like Mercon to be used in your manual transmission, it's not a typo. Many 5 speeds use ATF today. If Ford calls for a gear oil like 75w-90, 80w-90, or 75w-140, you must make sure you use the correct GL rating. Most manual transmissions will call for GL-4 gear oil. Most differentials call for GL-5 in the SAME viscosities. If you use GL-5 in a manual transmission that calls for GL-4 you will DAMAGE it. Most 75w-90 etc gear oils at AutoZone or other stores will be GL-5 and meant for differentials only.

[@trigder128]

Sorry I meant to say great help with this video very good for beginners

[@matthewtinker4569]

No dipstick. I did some research and everything keeps saying that i need to take it to a professional. I thought about pumping the fluid through the system but I would not know how to check it to see if it had the correct level. Any suggestions about how to check the level? The plates on the truck looked like Nebraska. I went to school there.

[@joelee5067]

If you disconnect the line flowing into the transmission cooler won't there be old fluid in the cooler that won't be flushed out?

[@InsaneOil]

joe lee It is possible that there is some residual fluid, however the theory is that gravity will cause it to flow down to the pan.

[@murmaider2]

That multipurpose fluid is all well on good on the 4R70W, but never use anything but a Mercon/Dexron only fluid in a 4R100

[@murmaider2]

***** Vehicles that came with the 4R100 specify in the manual that multi-purpose fluids that include a Mercon V specification cannot be used in the transmission due to the friction modifier that the Mercon V specification calls for which causes the clutches to glaze over. The Torque Drive fluid you posted is the only fluid I would use in a 4R100 because it has a Dexron III/Mercon rating without a Mercon V rating. This has been confirmed by a retired Ford engineer that designed the 4R100 over at the ford-trucks.com forum

[@lokbros100]

Very best explain with detail on video. Thank you so much.

[@meTimetraveler]

also the torque converter acts like a centrfuge, all the dirt in the fluid ends up stuck to the walls of the torque converter

[@ARuizFAME23]

So I should buy three 1 gallons of new transmission oil?

[@zackzander4425]

In the last part of the video, why not disconnect the oil cooler return line so that the old fluid is pushed out of the the oil cooler?

[@douglasmccarty1196]

***** The deposits will not all come out by gravity draining.

[@TheAce232008]

good God I'll take mine to the shop

[@tytythejedi123]

mine just hit 200k fluid has never been changed should I do it?

[@thomassmith3951]

Brandon Collins don't flush it all just most off. it . sometimes new transmission oil in a never changed trans will ruin it

[@UncleSarkis]

What did you do? Any issues?

[@Adam_Smith1136]

What tools did you use?? My 2003 F-150 SuperCrew's crossmember is in the way of a few bolts. I have tried everything to fit between the pan and crossmember. Still can't get it. A list of tools you used for the pan would be greatly appreciated.

[@nativewear23]

Black King Ranch I used a swivel attached to small extension then a deep socket. It worked for me.

[@101Volts]

Just saying, my 1990 Mercury Grand Marquis has a drain plug on the torque converter. How nice, I saw a torque converter that doesn't have one (read on); on second thought though that may be a good thing so that I don't flush it too quickly. What would you recommend for a 1984 Chevy Caprice that I have no record of regarding maintenance excepting what I myself have maintained in recent years? (For another note, the car tires on it when I got it in 2010 were at least 15 years old!) I was thinking to just simply change the fluid in the pan, slowly, until it shows up as red. (it's black or very dark brown now.) I don't want to take it to a flushing place, it already leaks fluid when I shift from park and I read someone saying "Don't flush the transmission (to the mid 1970s car you got) just change the fluid in the pan; the pressure from a flushing machine may blow the fluid seals."

[@kayleighkirk2961]

what's the torque specs for the transmission pan bolts ? foot pounds

[@mannys9130]

Kayleigh Kirk Usually around 8 or so. Very light torque. Too much will bend the pan flange and deform the gasket causing a leak. Way too much will strip the threads.

[@stanislas2008]

Very professional and helpful great video thanks

[@fordwindsor351]

that display that shows the cooling lines is odd for me for the smaller cooler in front of the radiator isnt even for the transmission, its for the power steering.

[@bobbylane589]

Just a question for the flush vs no-flush arguments out there. Does this type of flush really pose the same kind of risk that a machine flush poses with releasing contaminates that may end up damaging the tranny?

[@bobbylane589]

+Jon Olson (ZO1983724) Thanks for the clarification. A lot of people like myself probably assume the "flush" you get also dropped the pan and changed the filter. This explains a lot. I'm getting ready to do the fluid/filter/and pan replacement on my 05 F150 with 97k miles on it. This truck is new to me, so I don't know the history (I guess I'll know a little more when I open it up). I'm going to be towing a lot and close to the upper limits of the trucks ability, and want to do as much as I can to prevent losing the transmission. Its currently working fine. I've read a lot of people who say its not worth the risk to do anything but drop the pan and drain the fluid. Maybe even doing it 4 times over 6 months to ensure the old fluid gets purged. It sure is scary trying to pick a team here. What are your thoughts on my scenario? Great video by the way, glad your still following up on comments this far out.

[@bobbylane589]

+Jon Olson (ZO1983724) I went ahead and just drained the pan, swapped the filter and replaced with a pan with a drain plug ($25). Then topped off with Maxima Racing SynATF. Good news was the fluid has been surfaced before (no yellow plug) and no major debris was in the pan and the old fluid was still pink. Hoping for the best.

[@noodi5555]

my excursion is on factory oil and it's 110000 miles. should I change it or not because three. mechanics

[@rickgaeta8935]

Excellent video!

[@InsaneOil]

Thanks for the comment. Good luck with your repair.

[@rafaelortiz6686]

Hi there Mr.Olson i have a 2001 ford f 150 4.6 and it was running fine and all the sudden it didnt want to shift gears. the check engine light was on so i borrow a scanner and it gave me codes of shifter solenoids A and B also torque converter clucth. So i will like to know what would you recomend for me to do change the solenoids or swap the tranny out. any input is much appreciated

[@samashpowell]

Thanks Jon for your great video. Would you happen to know the thread size on the supply line? I was wanting to rig up a adapter with a clear hose to connect to the supply line. Thanks for any info. ~Sam~

[@cliffscott4297]

What about the flux capacitor?

[@nativewear23]

Cliff Scott it's next to the blinker fluid.

[@fasstang87]

Hi Jon, My transmission slipped the first time the other day. My last change was about 100 000 miles ago. The fluid does not smell and is not that dark. What are your thoughts. is it fluid or worn parts. Is a flush to late or worth it at this point and time.?

[@fasstang87]

Thanks Jon for the reply. I am going to take my truck in this week. Do you think the slipping is caused by break down of the fluid or wear on the parts. Would changing the fluid reduce or eliminate future slipping?

[@jonolson8876]

fasstang87 If the fluid does not look as though it is very contaminated I would guess that the wear on the parts is minimal. Without seeing it for myself I would say that just by replacing the fluid and changing the filter would solve the slipping problem.

[@fasstang87]

Jon Olson Hey Jon, I have changed the fluid in my truck. the dealer stated that the fluid was dark. I have a sample in a water bottle if you want i can post a video for you. the dealership also stated that there was no metal or chunks in the fluid/ filter just dirty fluid. I have driven it all week about 500kms / 310 miles. I have notice that the truck pulls a lot stronger, firm before it has been feeling really soft/sluggish. If there is to be a failure when do you think it would be within the first 1000 or could be anytime? Also since the torque converter holds 40% should i change it out again sooner then later?

[@fasstang87]

Hey mronemanband1. I just had the fluid and filter changed, so far, so good. I am coming up to 10 000 sinc e i changed the fluid. I was thinking about getting the filter changed again around 20k. I haven't towed anything other then my seadoo, so the loads have been light on my truck.

[@moneymaker8461]

At the start of this film u took the two hoses off and made fluid shoot out of one....What was that for?? Then u screwed it back in. Im trying to change my trans out. Good vid but I need some answers

[@romansroad2007]

Money Maker Well it’s been 5 years now did you get your answers yet ????

[@jamesroberson8749]

ITS the return line from your transmission that you took off the rad< not the supply

[@blunitehawk]

Can I just do the 6 courts or is it recommended to do an entire flush

[@matthewtinker4569]

On a 2009 F150 transmission fluid change. I have identified the inlet side of the oil cooler. I am trying to figure out where to add the oil to the transmission. There is a reservoir for the transmission fluid but I can not find the fill tube. Any help? Where are you from?

[@ThePhoeniix602]

Hey Jon. I recently bought a 98 4.6l f150. It was running perfect until one week later. I started the truck up and put it on reverse and it was still good then put it on Drive and didnt go. I accelerated and still nothing I had to accelerated it even more and went slowly then drove good. Does this everytime I press the brakes and try to go again still have to accelerate a lot for it to move. If I press to much it burns tires and acts like it wants to turn off. Like if you were driving standard. Can you help me out?

[@Unchained0]

Finally perfectly explained! Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge, man. I have a may be little more complex question here... I've found no one that can wash the doubts about, i would like to have your opinnion if it's no bother, please... What if i got an automatic gearbox filled with the wrong ATF (Dexron III), and i want to change it to the recommended by manufacturer manual (ATF M5)? Should i got to unmount and open the whole transmission box and ATF sistem so it can be cleaned all of it's parts mannually of all the ATF III before i can refill it with the Mercon V, or can i just refill it with mercon V using this drain by the ATF cooler pipe technique? (i've been told that Mercon V shoudn't be mixed with ATF III in any case) Thank you so much for your time, greetings!

[@InsaneOil]

Honestly, I am not a transmission expert but I do know that mixing product isn't typically recommended. If it were my vehicle, rather than taking everything apart, I would run a bottle of Amsoil Engine and Transmission Flush according to the bottle's instructions to clean out the entire system, drop the pan, do the filter, torque converter, etc. (shown in the video). Then fill with a high quality ATF. I obviously strongly recommend the Amsoil product and you can look up the specific products for your vehicle at insaneoil.com/

[@Unchained0]

@@InsaneOil I will, then... In fact, thats what i was thinking of, after post the comment.. But it happens that i coudn't find any transmission flush here in where i live (Venezuela). But thanks for the page, pal, i will try to research for the chemical composition of the product so may be i could be pointed to some other that i could find here and so, it will help me a lot!... :) (y) (or even try to import one if i have to) Thanks for the advice as well, that idea of dismounting the entire transmission was eating my head :S !!

[@sanderpena]

the right way to drain the torque converter is thru the transmission bell housing you will see like a rubber plug take that off and then you move the pully by hand till you see the nut align with the hole. then you drain everything out, like that you just wasting money on transmission fluid specially if I'm using royal purple just my 2 cents.

[@jcrewe100]

hi jon i have a f150 2007 5.4 v8 when i put it reverse it takes 4 to 5 sec to go in gear what do u think might cause this thanks

[@jackmama79]

Why not just pump a few quarts of the old fluid out first from that supply line to the cooler, so when you drop the pan it's not so full and messy?

[@jonothejester]

Could work. Or you might run the risk of having the engine run with no fluid in it.

[@jackmama79]

@@jonothejester you just have a helper turn off the engine as soon as fluid stops coming out or starts sputtering

[@dihskursiv]

I don't understand why you needed to differentiate the supply and return lines to flush the system. Did I miss something?

[@dihskursiv]

Thanks for the reply, but I'm still lost...does it matter to someone changing the fluid or was it just for informational purposes? Thanks again for replying.

[@ttrbykir]

Its to change the fluid in the torque converter. If you just drop the pan then refill it the torque converter will still be full of old nasty oil. So flushing with the line disconnected replaces the atf in the torque converter.

[@jaimecigarroa6809]

We'll were did u put the yellow thing and is it usefull

[@jaimecigarroa6809]

Okay thanks really helpfull man love your stuff

[@mknight6026]

Why didnt you use the fluid extractor first haha? My truck has been going 24 years with out a trans flush or new filter. Trans fluid really doesnt go bad like oil because oil is being mixed with carbon from your cylinder when firing fuel. Still good to do every 100,000 miles but hell 24 years and not one problem?

[@101Volts]

M Knight Well if it's working for you go ahead, keep doing it; if the fluid's black now should you decide to drop the fluid though I'm wondering if you should _not_ flush it - I've heard that flushing a transmission can cause dirt to clog passages *if* the transmission has never been flushed and is dirty, *and* if the people took it to a power flush place. (Changing it one fluid pan's worth at a time was said to be fine though.)

[@DougHanchard]

+M Knight There are a lot of reasons why your transmission and fluid can last as long as it has. Light loads, operating temperature environment and general location humidity. There is also the ol maxim, a car (or truck) driven is a vehicle that will require less maintenance and repairs. Some transmissions will wear out VERY fast due to where the unit is being operated. Extreme temperatures like Northern Canada and Alaska are brutal on parts and the case itself. Thermal expansion eventually wears out the parts not because of abuse, but the wide temperature swings. Transmissions that carry real heavy loads in high altitude or hot and humid locations can burn up fluid in a hurry. If your vehicle never sees these types of conditions, it is not surprising to hear that you've gone 100,000 miles without a hiccup. (knock on wood)