Inside a good quality Scangrip rechargeable LED worklight.

[@RichardT2112]

It is strangely therapeutic watching you rip apart items ... cheers Clive!

[@Sephyricon]

Nice to see the gentler, non destructive side of Clive. :)

[@Coolkeys2009]

He's at work, he's a little better behaved :-)

[@TheChipmunk2008]

it's also someone else's property ;) lol

[@1995epicfail]

clive always tries gentle first

[@BRMBug]

It's nice to see they've put thought into little details, like milling channels for the LED wires to go into so they're not squashed by the battery pack.

[@Zadster]

It is really nice to see a piece of equipment designed and engineered to do a job, rather than every cent squeezed out of the design. Not that those aren't interesting! Anything with turned or milled alloy gets my engineering neuron all warm and fuzzy.

[@cuteraptor42]

Neat trick with the transistor in the step up regulation feedback

[@Marineio]

Nice to see the 9927T out to play! I bought mine after watching your video on your purchase and have been using it, flawlessly, ever since, even after the numerous knocks, bangs and environmental contamination (oil/grease!) Contacted Amecal recently as I have lost one of the blanking plugs and wondered if they sold them - and they sent me a new pair completely free of charge within two days - faultless and amazing customer service!

[@bigclivedotcom]

I do like the AmeCal meters. Very functional.

[@werdennn]

We have the same light at work and this is just awesome.

[@jackking5567]

Love the light so does a quick search - £200. Oh well make my own then!! Lovely unit Clive. Thanks for showing us where better lighting can be found. :)

[@wupme]

Wow such a clean circuit board layout.

[@LWolf12]

That is a really nice light. Glad you didn't break it.

[@lackedpuppet9022]

Your voice is soooo soothing.

[@spikeydapikey1483]

That's a new screwdriver !!

[@bigclivedotcom]

Old screwdriver, different toolkit at work.

[@philippstenkamp8558]

Seems like they put not only protection circuitry but a full BMS on the battery pack. There has to be some sort of balancing for an 3S2P lithium battery configuration like this. Since there is no charging circuitry or current regulation visible on the boost converter PCB this would make sense. Really like the modularity and simplicity of this light. Everything in there is there for a reason and one specific purpose. This being a current regulated light, there shouldn't be any visible pwm flicker when using one these as a video light.

[@billlowe70]

Hearing those background voices makes me picture a room full of people at desks making youtube videos. At the end of the day a supervisor stops Clive and says "Clive, yeeeeah, I'm going to have to ask you to go ahead and cover the flickering candles shift again" Clive: "damn it I hate those things"

[@3Bleuchtmittel]

This is most likely a Citizen LED, something like a CLL022 1204 - which has 4 strings with 12 LED and nominal of approx 9W. (21W max. with proper cooling) Citizen is the only manufacturer which uses this high-voltage / low-current approach on COBs and design. And to answer another question: HELLA heavily relies on OEM Products. They are a brand, not a maker for the idustrial lighting part. A lot of products are just rebranded with their Logo. (And sold for +20-50% of the original price.)

[@ThatGuy-nv2wo]

Did you see the lithium battery fail on robot wars? Lots of smoke, perhaps too much

[@FesixGermany]

Finally one wich is not crappy. Very Nice!

[@probablynot8154]

Hey Clive could you look at one of those LED cubes on eBay. They come in 4x4x4 and 8x8x8. I would love to see how you would hack one or modify in your own Clivey way.

[@sokol.murati]

Yeah

[@dillerboy]

Led cubes? Are they perchance charlieplexed?

[@windshield11]

Definitely would love at see a video of that, mainly the modifications, though.

[@lillydoye7418]

+dillerboy A few are, but most are regular multiplexing.

[@dillerboy]

Phew, wouldn't a regular multiplexed arrangement require something like 46 pins to drive a 8x8x8 led cube? Compared to 24 or so for a charliplexed one?

[@oaxelo1]

Yes these are really good. really sturdy and bright, and the charge is so long lasting . . . . Actually mine has not died on me yet.

[@gamingpressgames5064]

what something well made and safe? bit strange for Clive usually it's either pink deadly broken or Chinese (or all 4)

[@MartinGod3992]

i have a feeling that might be a Cree XLamp type LED Array, spec sheets show a similar 36v operation voltage

[@LGIndustriplat]

So Scangrip decided that high quality locking pliers weren't enough? Let's do high quality work lights too! (Have a bunch of Scangrip pliers, used mostly for welding)

[@Maddin1313]

We have on like these on a big CNC at work, but mains powered, not battery. I have to turn it off when I walk around on the table, because it's so blindingly bright when you look in it's general direction.

[@douro20]

Inside a 130 Euro LED worklight...was it actually made in Denmark?

[@silverstrings5569]

Now I wonder....Would it be possible to take a worklight that is designed to be plugged in to run into a self-contained battery run light? I mean, I suppose it might depend on the light, but it just makes me wonder...

[@codered11343]

I really hope PRG is thinking about sponsoring you since all of your videos have been on a PRG roadcase with there logo in the video.

[@AndyMarsh]

Is the CoB substrate ceramic or aluminium? If ceramic it's probably a Cree or Sharp CoB, if Aluminium most likely a Citizen unit.

[@bioshock4life99]

Did you say it was given to you by Vince Vaughn?

[@stridermt2k]

I was trying to remember where I saw something like this before, and it was in the hands of our Snap-On Tool Salesman just last week. His also featured a particularly poor sounding bluetooth speaker as well, so I'm 100% certain that the one I saw was not nearly as legitimate as this one.

[@Ghlargh]

Did you notice what brand the LED COB module was? I have been purchasing a whole lot of this type of LED for a few years now and the only real players used to be Cree and Bridgelux, but recently a whole bunch of new players have entered the market and i wonder which one this is.

[@power-max]

I have a nice CREE XHP70 LED, that damn thing is 4000 LUMENS!!!! About equivalent to 4 or even 5 100W lamps! I think it is about 30 or so watts, and at lower powers, the higher binned ones (generally the colder and lower CRI ones) can achieve 170 lumens per watt, too! Although I prefer light quality over efficiency by this point, given that LEDs are so efficient now.

[@Thogert]

Nice, I picked up a CXB3590 for one of my projects and the 13000 lumens coming out of it will burn things. Hard to handle the 140W heat price though.

[@randomguy7503]

+Thor Rankin I'm currently working with an array of 160 XHP35's 1820W/255k LM :D The most efficient LED by Cree: I get 141LM/W

[@Electester]

How would you cool this array down?

[@CyclingSalmon14]

+Electester either it's a huge array with high thermal mass or more likely and simpley...active cooling.

[@CyclingSalmon14]

+CyclingSalmon14 like fans and shut.

[@TerryMcKean]

Nice light unit. Plus, nice feature I see on your DVM's readout...that LCD bar below the digital readout. How does it do at showing minute variations?

[@blackwing88cyper51]

do you ever plan on doing twitch streams?

[@maicod]

Clive I was wondering do you drive/ferry from Scotland to Isle of Man vv or fly ? If ferry how long does the boat trip take ? Do you use Man Pounds on Isle of Man ?

[@memriloc]

hey clive, sorry for asking so many questions but this looks interesting. doesn't look like it'd shoot out much light at all, but seems it does and it's a FLOOD, what degree angle so you think it'd be? cheers again.

[@madbstard1]

Think you could handle the lighting at the Olympics? Roll on Edinburgh 20?? and all the behind the scenes videos from Clive :)

[@Raptorman0909]

Suspect 6x 18650 cells and the on voltage drop closer to 2.5V/LED at very low current, 2.9V at there low setting, and 3.06V at high power setting. My LED strip lights, which like most white LED's are actually blue LED's, start up about 2.3V/LED and at full current they're closer to 2.9V.

[@kendrakirai]

Hey Clive, or anyone really, I've been watching a BUNCH of these videos since discovering via Ashens, and I've been wondering one major thing; are you saying 'Microfired' or 'Microfarad'?

[@bigclivedotcom]

Micro Farad, but sometimes Micro-fart too.

[@DielectricVideos]

It's surprising to me that the 6 18650s aren't wired in series to give a nominal voltage of 21.6 volts... I would think the boost conversion would be more efficient with a higher supply rail.

[@jordanwalker8396]

Is it bad I liked the video before even watching it?

[@legobuildingsrewiew7538]

no

[@drkastenbrot]

clive never dissapoints anyways

[@lucaspeltie]

Yes, very bad please don't shock me like that ever again /s.

[@kelakakku]

yes

[@remotecontrol1408]

From what i´ve seen this is probably a Cree CXA1830(or Nichia 121, unlikely 121 chips) COB beeing underrun - 36V 0.7A spec wise

[@randomguy7503]

+1

[@twocvbloke]

Definitely a much nicer light than the cheaper chinese ones, quite physically large for such a small LED though, but I guess that's more for keeping it cool aswell as being able to stand up properly without the need for it to be sat in a large and cumbersome frame... :)

[@KnaufL]

Vince should upgrade it to warm white...

[@RicoElectrico]

No balacing for the li-ions? Or is it on the protection board?

[@bigclivedotcom]

Usually on the protection board.

[@tiporari]

+bigclivedotcom Integrated battery management chip. Usually has over current protection, low voltage cutoff, and balance charging in one neat little package. They are incredibly cheap, and permit the use of lithium chemistry batteries in devices not specifically designed for them (like drills, lights, etc.)

[@Tom_Hillman]

Why do i enjoy these videos!

[@zx8401ztv]

Yes a dam good light, big chunky heatsink :-).

[@MrRantWhy]

do you buy your tools or do they provide them for u at that location?

[@bigclivedotcom]

I supply my own.

[@maicod]

In the description you call the light a work light. Is it used as a desk lamp or where else ?

[@bigclivedotcom]

It's for illuminating work areas, but \i suppose it could be used as a desk light in an emergency.

[@miniwarrior7]

+bigclivedotcom or alternatively feed it a 12V DC supply for long term indoor usage, I wonder if charging circuitry favors input power :)

[@bigclivedotcom]

It is designed to run on its charger too.

[@philippstenkamp8558]

The silkscreen on the boost converter PCB reads 15W whereas the rated input from the charger is 20W which suggests that there is some power to spare to charge the batteries even when the light is running on full blast.

[@kenabi]

if only it didn't have a proprietary power connector. one thing i refuse to invest in is a product that makes me use a dedicated supply i can't readily get a replacement for from any regular electronics shop without consulting a catalog or possibly even having to contact the 'maker' and requesting a new one. other than that, looks pretty solid.

[@jakp8777]

I would have prefer to not have the electronics/ battery right behind the COB. I think that should have been relocated to either the mount or the bottom of the back case.

[@jonathancook4022]

I agree, but like the designer (probably) i like things to be symmetrical :D

[@witeshade]

why is it so big? does it need that much heat sinking for the LEDs?

[@bigclivedotcom]

The cooler LEDs run, the longer they will last.

[@shurdi3]

But I thought you prefered warm white

[@CyclingSalmon14]

+shurdi3 If your serrious....colour temp has zero to do with actual temp of the LED. You want the LED to cool as possible...they put out tons of heat in a small package so need a lot of heatsinking to stay cool as unlike other tech they don't like getting hot as will burn out , colour shift, and loose efficancy and high temps. You can read up on this st candlepowerfourms.

[@CyclingSalmon14]

+shurdi3 If your serrious....colour temp has zero to do with actual temp of the LED. You want the LED to cool as possible...they put out tons of heat in a small package so need a lot of heatsinking to stay cool as unlike other tech they don't like getting hot as will burn out , colour shift, and loose efficancy and high temps. You can read up on this st candlepowerfourms.

[@CyclingSalmon14]

+Fry Depends on the LED used / Forward voltage. You wouldn't plug US appliance in to a UK socket would you (Pretending you could lol...it's just what the LED requires) You can over amp LEDs a lot at the cost of heat and shorter life...but go to far and it will tint shift and burn out...However LEDs are sensitive to voltage and pop easily at the wrong voltage. Dedomeing an LED (Removeing the "dome" on them...little clear part above them can increase its LUX (I think that units wrong but it's something like that...been out of the torch tech for a while) but often causes a tint shift...often to a warmer tint in a good way though...but it will technically loose effisncys...as the dome helps in that regard. Honestly candlepowerfourms is an amazing resource and hobby if you want to learn more.

[@Gazgit555]

Looks and performs like Cree cxb chip. Ya want to see the light a cxb 3070 ( between about 70-90w) can produce. they're amazing.

[@randomguy7503]

CXA3590 is pretty bright, tho. Worked with them, but there not very efficient.

[@Gazgit555]

+Random Guy I've been running my 3070 on 1000ma, it only looses a few lumins ,runs cooler and it makes it efficient than even a sodium light. And gives it an even longer life . WIN WIN

[@randomguy7503]

+Garry Carley Yeah, under-powering is a good thing, but for my case (Led Array) not only LM per W is a problem, but LM per mm^2, too. And you can run Cree's at full power with the same Lifetime, you just need more cooling

[@randomguy7503]

+Random Guy I found the perfect LED for my Array: XHP 35 (Aray of 160, 1,8kW, 250k LM: it's kinda bright :D )

[@Gazgit555]

+Random Guy Do you ,or have you used reflectors or lenses. . l run between 12to15 lights, all with 80 mm * 28mm thick, with a short reflector don't now how many lunmins , cos the 3 meters i'v try,d won't measure it unless its several feet away . Brighter and more efficient than a sodium. its also adjustable, and instantaneous light on \off . Top technology, don't you just love LEDS ?

[@Ingvehetland]

what's that type of screw called (on the back panel)? is it a unique one or is it just basically a rivet? :)

[@philippstenkamp8558]

I guess you're talking about the four screws that hold the back cover on. These look like Torx flathead machine screws, propably an T20 M4x20 or something in that ballpark

[@Ingvehetland]

+Philipp Stenkamp ah, well thank you for feeding my curiosty 👌

[@SproutyPottedPlant]

I like It! imagine if it had high CRI LEDs.

[@AndyMarsh]

Almost certainly an 80+ CRI CoB

[@arcadeuk]

google Scangrip lights and then go to shopping. They have some very nice high CRI lights in the same style as the one is this video (very expensive though)

[@Jeff5263]

I see that you changed your bench view to show www.prg.com instead of bigclivedotcom. Is that a new site of yours or is it a sponsor?

[@bigclivedotcom]

I'm filming on top of a flight case at work.

[@EngineeringNibbles]

I want to convert a diving light to lithium, and am planning on 8x 18650 and a 5w led, what kind should I use ? a 12 v 0.4 amp cob with a lens ?

[@josslevy4240]

If there is room for its 2" diameter, then look at a Soraa MR16 spot-lamp. It is waterproof and comes with a good choice of colour temperatures and beam angles down to ten degrees. It is designed to work off a transformer so, using a battery, you may need to add some inrush current limiting

[@AwsomeVids83]

I'd go with a high quality 10w led. Very bright, not much heatsinking needed, and easy to drive.

[@EngineeringNibbles]

A. Zak I don't really trust ebay, is there a more reliable source in europe ? ( or china is fine too )

[@randomguy7503]

Try Cree XHP35 (13w, 1833lm), Or Cree XHP70 (32w, 4022lm). Both available in 12V in different color temps. You can get them on Mouser.de, but some models are only available in a full reel (500pcs). If no one is available in 1pcs try the Cree CXA2 Led's (like the one in the Video). Here's an overview: cree[DOT]com/LED-Components-and-Modules/Landing-pages/CXA2

[@randomguy7503]

+Random Guy You can drive the LED's on lower Voltages to get even better efficiency. They come with a lens

[@aaronstorey9712]

Prg eh? You ever work backstage Clive

[@bigclivedotcom]

kzbin.info/www/bejne/bXixmpx9p7CKeLs

[@bdot02]

€335 or $379 for a similar scangrip light. Pricey!

[@zorgatron8998]

Looks like a similar emitter in a rechargable CAT work light sold at Costco recently, google "costco cat light" to see it. 1100 lumens, about 30 bucks.

[@drteeth7054]

Did anybody else notice how BC's voice quivered when he said he could not strip the light to bits?

[@Bostish2]

I'm disappointed, so use to 50w lights running as 30w... :( Now I don't know what to think anymore.

[@rennaaa6667]

Do you work for PRG? :O

[@bigclivedotcom]

I work with them on a freelance basis.

[@rennaaa6667]

Awesome!

[@Darieee]

Does this really cost 200€ ??????????!!!!!?!?!?!!!1

[@912-e3q]

This is an question irrelevant to the video but are cheap soldering iron tips (and cheap solder) from Amazon/pound shops any good? Are they made of the right things to work etc.?

[@Thanson199415]

that's quality right there :>

[@pdrg]

See if Neg Earth will make you a counteroffer on sponsorship ;-)

[@68MalKontent]

It's probably a Citizen COB LED. They make really good ones, some reaching Ra/CRI of 97! I really like them. Available at www.tme.eu.

[@90msg90]

It's not brighter than 20W, it's just as bright as it should be. I also got used to cheap chinese tat and then suddenly everything good quality seems so perfectly made.

[@haroldtplopps]

90 quid!. right we need a ebay special inspired version made for about 30 quid. please

[@P14zm4]

Thats a cool one.

[@hieroben]

Do I see "15W" written on the driver board? Hmm, 15W driver in a 20W light? Not much better than the cheap ones… Would have been interesting to measure the actual current of the leds.

[@MrBanzoid]

Very nice but a 200 quid or so it's a bit out of my league. I suppose I could go tee total for the next few months.........

[@boydbros.3659]

huge difference in quality vs chineseium products

[@gafaff]

And flogged in Australia with a different silkscreen: www.totaltools.com.au/hella-nova-20-20w-ip67-led-rechargable-worklight-2/i1303668/

[@vascvas]

Wait. Did I hear Vince Vaughan?

[@jakp8777]

Nice injected metal case design.

[@flagpoleeip]

Jesus have you seen the office of them? they're like 200 Alans

[@exaMAB]

"don't turn it on, take it apart!"

[@mpy1202]

They look great but wow they are expensive.

[@sleeptyper]

Businesses get them reduced in taxes anyway, so it's good to buy one excellent & expensive than 15 bad & bursty ones (one by one).

[@CoherentPhoton]

The COB looks like it could be a Cree XLamp. www.cree.com/LED-Components-and-Modules/Products/XLamp

[@securi-t]

Just shows that you get what you pay for...

[@wtfiswiththosehandles]

It is nice, but is it worth 200 euro? Meh, don't think so.

[@jusb1066]

Clive is going to make some soft spoken audiobooks to help you get to sleep, here is the leaked script: You are going to sleep, sleepy sleep soft sleep....are you asleep yet? no? THEN GET TAE SLEEP YA WEE GOBSHITE!

[@Gooberslot]

It must feel weird to take apart something high quality for once.

[@jojuae]

VINCE VAUGHN!?

[@zachkorinis3935]

bloody hell, verrrry expensive

[@himthedk]

Danish quality :P

[@Arek_R.]

COB crap, pff, put there XHP70 or something xD

[@asherdie]

get a roll of duct tape. "intact" is perspective.

[@corneliusmcmuffin3256]

First!

[@floriandaler5327]

First

[@GregMcCarthyUK]

4th

[@hossmonkey1]

Holy shit .... over priced! From the Dyson and Apple Design school ..... minus the crap electronics and the ability to fix it yourself!