Install DC to DC Engine Charger on Ram Promaster | How I Did It

[@Roy-ij1wq]

Very good description of the D+ connection. You could easily make use of the CL feature with your setup by switching out your toggle switch to a DPDT and adding another wire. I used a HOKAAER Rocker Switch Toggle On-Off-On 7 pin DPDT switch to control the charging output on a 60 amp Renogy DC-DC charger in my travel trailer. The charger turns on when it detects current on the D+ wirre and defaults to 60 amp output. When current is detected on the optional CL wire, output is reduced to 30 amp. Pins 1,2,3 are on the left. Pins 7,4,5,6 are on the right. Pin 7 goes to the negative ground. Pins 2,5 are in the middle and jumpered and go to a fuse that is only powered when the ignition is on (you can use your existing feed for D+ for this connection). Pins 3 & 4 are jumpered and connected to the D+ output side of the switch and supply power when the rocker is in either On position. The optional CL wire is connected to pin 6. The charger supplies 60 amps in the upper position, it is off in the middle position, and supplies 30 amps in the bottom position. Renogy also recommends that you put a fuse close to your start battery that is 1.5 times larger than the maximum output of the charger. I used a 90 amp block fuse in my truck and also added a Blue Sea on/off switch so I don't have any live wires when my trailer is disconnected. I opted for the fuse block over a breaker because some users report nuisance trips when the engine compartment gets hot.

[@TuxTraveler]

Good thoughts here. I can't remember if I have it in the video (I am sure I do), but I have a fuse right in the battery compartment on one site and right before the house battery on the back as per their specs, which I think is 20 amp on the car battery and 25 on the house battery side.

[@misarse]

Great video, you did an excellent job describing everything. A+

[@MaxShaffer]

I couldn't find a bullet pin that fit in the signal socket, so I took a 14-16 gauge pin and opened up the tip with a nail to make it female. Worked well.

[@TuxTraveler]

Nice.

[@christopherbroskie1484]

@@TuxTraveler do you know what kind of bullet adapter, or what size to use here?

[@TuxTraveler]

@@christopherbroskie1484 No. I picked up a pack of random adapters from an autoparts store and one of them worked.

[@Laffexplore]

Thanks for a very clear and well explained video!!

[@ronethridge9875]

an excellent job/you really explained the install well/i liked it man/cool/thanks much

[@johnschneider931]

If you're ever in idaho, stop by twin falls. The bridge is amazing and a 10 minute drive on Falls ave will get you to Shoshone Falls. They don't call it the Niagra of the west for nothing.

[@TuxTraveler]

Will do

[@rickforges8918]

nice work Tom

[@BrucesWorldofStuff]

Nice job Tom. I see only one possible issue @17:30 where you turn the wires up to go to the battery box that could be a ware point for the wires against the metal lip of the chassis. Better choice would've followed the factory black cable and ran the two wires through the same white factory clip. I know everyone is a keyboard critic. 35 years as a mechanic says it's a small oops... LOL lol LOL Other than that it is a great job and fantastic option for power... :-) Safe Travels Tralver! LLAP

[@TuxTraveler]

Not sure why I didn't see that at the time. It is not right over the metal, though. The wire it is on top of provides cushion, but I will move it to the channel when I am in there next.

[@BrucesWorldofStuff]

@@TuxTraveler :-) It's all good Tralver... Sometimes you need a old half blind retired mechanic watching over your shoulder... Lol Besides we need to keep ya on the road. I'm still buying lunch.. :-P LLAP

[@vroor32]

As a truck driver, with a reefer trailer (has a mounted motor on it) I DO NOT WANT the "vibration sensor" .... So D+ line is ideal .... And not a faulty design by Renogy .... If I was to use it. I'm still shopping lithium battery before I get a dc-dc charger .... But I noticed that vibration sensor feature

[@TuxTraveler]

Look at the SOK batteries. They are very well built and cheap, using the same cells as the expensive batteries.

[@josefandino4090]

Hello great video by the way!!!✨✨✨✨ I also have a question with the bullet connector would I need a male connector for it? And for the circuit chart that you made, am I allowed to plug it in anywhere in the 3rd column that has an “X” on it?

[@TuxTraveler]

The ones with the X ALWAYS draw 12V, so they will always pass an on signal to the device, which will likely kill your engine battery if you forget to turn off the device, so I would not use them. I used the one I did because it ONLY draws 12V when the key is in and turned to the On position.

[@josefandino4090]

Thank you for that. So to have it configured like yours I would need to connect to column “1” row 3? Is that correct?

[@TuxTraveler]

If I recall, I used the last column, last hole, but I have not watched the video in a while. I would probe them all because I have the documentation for that panel and the probes gave me different values than I expected from the documents. It is easy to probe them. Put your negative on the voltameter on the body of the vehicle and stick the positive in each hole while the van is on and while it is off. This way you know exactly how it is wired.

[@girland2vandogs]

Do you have a link to the plugs you put on the end of the D+ wire?

[@TuxTraveler]

I don't. I bought then at a random car parts store on their rack. It was part of a misc parts pack. I think I got it by the fuses at an Advance Auto

[@kurtcuizon9715]

Hey bud, I finished the install of my 40A Renogy DCDC charger but the D+ cable isn’t sensing a voltage when I flip my toggle switch ON. For reference, I have the toggle switch connected to my house battery terminals and the “load” prong is connected to the D+ terminal . When toggle switch is turned on, the blue LED in it indicates it’s on but when I check the DCDC charger there’s no light indicating that it’s on.

[@TuxTraveler]

Not completely sure, but it is possible the D+ might need tied to the car battery and not the house battery. Can you try that?

[@colwem]

19:40 What is an uplift kit? With a fuse box? I can't find this on google. Do you just mean lift kit? that is common and I get that. uplift sounds like a kit that lets you adjust the height and that sounds cool if you can point me towards it.

[@TuxTraveler]

The uplift kit is an option from the dealer that adds some extra gadgets, probably a wheelchair lift, and I think a few other options.

[@kristinpoppo4249]

What size bullet adapter? I bought one for 14-16 wire and it would not fit.

[@TuxTraveler]

I could not find one that was perfect. I bought something a little large and compressed it with pliers until it fit snuggly. I just bought a cheap pack of random adapters from an advance auto.

[@justinwestphal6195]

The bullet plugs I purchased feel loose inside, do you know if they vary in size?

[@TuxTraveler]

I think they do. Mine were either too big or too small. I crushed it with pliers and it fit in nicely.

[@justinwestphal6195]

@@TuxTraveler another question if I wanted the light to work on my switch how would I wire that? Like locations of each wire on the 12v switch?

[@jamesb2877]

Tom m not bad for a non ham operator although we would fuse the ground on both sides of the firewall along with the hot side both sides in firewall and again on your Hot 12-volt Engine voltage. Yes I've seen The ground side Catch Fire because of it not being fused. KF6KFM

[@BrucesWorldofStuff]

I agree, I would have done the same thing and fuse both but in this application I believe it is a very small chance of a issue. :-) LLAP

[@TuxTraveler]

It is fused on the battery end. The bolt we tied into is a fuse. There is not a fuse on the house battery size as the chassis ground will prevent issues there.

[@AbdulBah-jr5dp]

I want my to be fix like yours let me know

[@granteaton8438]

what year is your promaster?

[@TuxTraveler]

2019

[@troy5659]

How is the ground on wood when wood does not conduct electricity? at 12:37

[@TuxTraveler]

That spot has a hole for tie downs, so we sanded off the paint to make a clean connection to chassis ground and connected a grounding bolt into it (Easy to access from the panel on the other side of the divider wall.

[@troy5659]

@@TuxTraveler Thanks, I new there was a reason.

[@sun-sea-solar]

Can't even get mine to switch on 😂😂

[@TuxTraveler]

Did you properly connect the D+ line? Did you test the voltage going into that line? That draws nearly zero current, but must trigger a 12V on your voltameter. You can test it by tying into the input, but don't do that more than just a quick test.

[@sun-sea-solar]

@@TuxTraveler I thought I could try it into the input just to test it but still couldn't get it to switch on 😭